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Alley-Oop A m e r i can
Back Alley Bistro Tue-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm. 55 Xingfucun Zhonglu (next door to Frost Nails in the alleyway across from April Gourmet), Chaoyang District (6417 5430) 朝阳区幸福村中路55 1.2 km northeast of Dongsishitiao station (Line 2)
duck two ways
C
20
November 2012
bottom of a bowl of andouille sausage and chicken gumbo (RMB 38), I was already pining for more of the smoky broth and its peppery heat. The highlight of our meal was a moist Chicken Under a Brick (RMB 128), which we’re told is marinated for 32 hours and then pinned on to the grill by, yes, a brick. The germophobe in me was hoping it was a hospital-grade slab, though the meat was so tender and juicy that I quickly forgot about the brick’s provenance. The apple crisp (RMB 38) was also a marvel,
walking the tightrope between sweet and tart flavors, and crunchy, silky and (ice) creamy textures. I normally associate fruit crisps with home baking, but this was one I’d happily – and repeatedly – pay money for. If you can make it there for lunch, don’t miss the Back Alley Bistro Sandwich (RMB 98). Deepfried softshell crab, cool avocado and a layer of pancetta – California cuisine is here. Josh Ong Also try: Flamme, The Loop
photos: mitchell pe masilun
hef Jeff Powell has opened up a small bistro next door to his Frost Nails bar/ salon. With only about 32 seats, including a private chef’s table for eight, expect these seats to be in high demand once word gets out. Several of his dishes are good enough to prompt a descent into competitive gluttony. For instance, a calamari lite fry (RMB 58) – tiny curls of crackly calamari on a bed of mustard aioli had us passing the plate around for easy shoveling into our mouths. As my spoon clinked against the