old school
The Tree
A Tree (Still) Grows in Sanlitun Wed-Mon 10am-10pm, closed Tue. 2-201, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (8587 1561) 朝阳区工体东路中国红街2号楼201室 800m west of Tuanjiehu (Line 10) I remember in 1996, a colleague telling me about the opening of a new bar in what was then Sanlitun South Bar Street (now underneath the cement of Sanlitun SOHO). It was called The Hidden Tree, and he uttered a phrase that few dared use then: “They have real pizza.” That was 1996. Hidden Tree was one of the last operating survivors of South Bar Street, until the walls came down and the mighty tree, hidden as it was, was finally felled. But unlike Minders Café and Café Café, two South Bar Street stalwarts that never reappeared, soon proprietor Patrick De Smet had found a new, similarly concealed courtyard site just off Sanlitun Back Street, complete with, of course, a large tree that once again sits at the middle of the restaurant. The experience, and the menu, has changed little over the years. The Tree only does a few things, but does them well: pizzas baked in wood-fired oven; salads; toasted sandwiches, and beer. Oh yes, Belgian beer, did we mention that? While Belgian beer has proliferated in Beijing to the point of even having a bar named Brussels a few years ago (now The Local), it was The Tree that first purveyed it in quantity to the capital. And that’s where The Tree made its name: the place where you could go and get an authentic, wood-fired, handmade pizza, fries/ frites served with mayonnaise, and a cold Belgian beer to
wash it down. I went back not so long ago to see what, if anything, had changed. Of course, there’s now also Nearby the Tree, in case the extra 30 meters to reach The Tree is just too far, or in case your navigation skills suck and you can’t find the flagship location. The Tree still has the same artwork that has graced its walls at least since its opening – I even know the woman who served as the model (no no, it’s not like that). The music is still generally dreadful. But no one goes to The Tree for that anyway. As the chill of November sets in, sitting next to the pizza oven sure feels warm and comfy. I ordered a number 10 pizza (RMB 75), with parma ham, olives, cheese, and tomato sauce. At times, it has been my favorite pizza in the world – sorry, New Jersey. I also asked for a Leffe Blonde draft (RMB 40). The mix of toppings with the mozzarella cheese was pleasingly salty and almost buttery, and Leffe was slightly sweeter as a result. It may have been the best pizza I’ve had there, but maybe I think that every time I go. Longevity among Beijing eateries, especially those catering primarily to foreigners, is not common. But with owner De Smet having celebrated 25 years in Beijing in 2014, and this place going as strong as ever, there’s no reason why this Tree won’t continue to grow and grow.
photo: The Beijinger
30
november 2015