Alleyway Gourmet
Qi Ye
A Taste of Hong Kong Daily 11am-midnight. 7-9 Sitiao Hutong, 14-230 Xinzhong Jie, Dongcheng District (6416 1512) 七爺清汤牛腩：东城区新中街14-230号四条胡同7-9号 1.2km northeast of Dongsishitiao (Line 2)
L
ike any good repeat tourist, I have been going to the same wonton noodle shop on the same small street in Hong Kong for the 15-plus years that I have been visiting the Fragrant Harbor. While I enjoy the heft of northern Chinese noodles, there is something uniquely satisfying about the resilient stretchiness of the thin egg noodles that form the base of wonton noodle soup. I had been unsuccessful in finding an adequate replica in Beijing, until I stumbled across reviews of a new Hong Kong-style noodle place on Dianping, conveniently located across from the Great Leap Brewing #12 Brewpub. Said restaurant, Qi Ye, specializes in stewed beef brisket in clear soup and while it is this dish that is garnering the most praise on Dianping, it was mention of noodles “as good as Hong Kong” that had me running to visit at the next available opportunity. Luckily – for you and for me after all this narrative build up – the noodles didn’t disappoint. Their signature 7-Yeah
[sic] noodle with stewed beef brisket (RMB 32) brings tender beef atop a rich, clear broth in which float excellent noodles with just the requisite level of elasticity. A final sprinkle of chopped scallions brings necessary freshness. You may order the noodles thick if you wish, but we don’t recommend it. Don’t neglect to order a plate of boiled kailan with oyster sauce (RMB 15) either, the light, briny flavor a good foil for the richness of the beef broth. The only slight misstep among the dishes we tried on our various visits is the Chaozhou homemade beef balls (RMB 38, RMB 30 with noodles). While we usually appreciate Chaozhou-style beef balls for their bouncy and slightly crunchy texture, here they were rendered more ping pong ball than pleasant. Stick to the beef brisket and you will be rewarded with a satisfying meal whether you visit at lunchtime or after a session at Great Leap. Robynne Tindall thin noodles with stewed beef brisket
photo: photos: joey guo ken
28
july 2015