The Baltic Guide ENG April 2016 by The Baltic Guide

A P R I L 2 0 16

Spring Fashion Spa Culture April Events

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

Spring Fever

h, the smell of spring in the air! Longer days, more sunshine, and the anticipation of summer being just around the corner. Patios will be popping up and summer terraces opening all around town. The real sign of Spring is the annual Tartu Student Days from 25 April to 1 May. The university town of Tartu is taken over by students putting on entertaining cultural and sporting events, all mixed with a bit of humour and intellect. There are over one hundred events taking place during this week-long festival, which culminates with Walpurgis Night (Volbriöö). It’s one of the most anticipated events of the

among academic student organisations. The night kicks off with a greeting to the procession from the Mayor of Tartu and the Rector of the University of Tartu. Afterwards, each student organisation holds their respective private events that are filled with performances, concerts, beer tables, singing, and more. At midnight, they open their doors to other student corporations and societies. In other words, it’s one big party lasting into the wee-small hours of the morning. Let the spring festivities begin!

Contents

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

3 Editorial

April Highlights

restaurants 8-9, 12-13 Restaurants: The Best Wings in Town Tallinn Restaurant Guide Restaurant News Café Guide

01 TARTU STUDENT & SPRING DAYS This week long festival takes place in Tartu from 25 April to 1 May. The programme is packed full of cultural events and entertainment, culminating with a big party on Walpurgis night.

02 BALLET FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY

03 FEAR FACTOR The Haapsalu Horror and Fantasy Film Festival has become an anticipated annual event. From 29 April - 1 May, enjoy scary movies from around the world in this small coastal town.

04 THE KING OF SPRING FAIRS Find what you need for the garden at the Luige Fair, everything from plants to tools. The fair takes place 6-8 May in the village of Luige, which is just under 15 km from Tallinn. Photo: David Roemer

05 ADAM LAMBERT IN TALLINN Adam Lambert will come to Tallinn as part of his spring tour. The singer performs 20 April in Tallinn at Rock Cafe.

shopping 6 Beauty 4–5 Shopping 12-13 Restaurants 14–15 Events 23 Nightlife 16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Style: Ženja Fokin Makeup and hair: Maarja-Liisa Kallit (www.intesalon.ee) Model: Sandra V Thanks to: Babor SPA (www.baborspa.ee )

APRIL 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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The ballet festival takes place in Jõhvi in Ida-Virumaa from 4-8 May. The programme will feature performances for even the youngest members of the family. The main performer for the festival this year will be the Belarusian National Opera and Ballet Theatre.

shop

4 ■ Department

Estonian Fash

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTO: ANETE PALMIK

When you think of Estonia, you

don’t necessarily think of its fashion designers, however there are many labels that, if you’re a lover of good clothes, you should take a look at when you visit Tallinn. Some of these are small, oneperson companies, and some are international labels with growing reputations, but what they all have in common is a unique approach to design and creativity. You might suspect that Estonian fashion is not easy to find or buy, especially given that many Estonian brands in major shopping centres have been replaced with international ones - but it’s still simple to seek out great clothes, whatever your budget. Perhaps Estonia’s best-known and most successful brands are those under the Baltika umbrella; these include Ivo Nikkolo, Monton, Mosaic, Baltman and Bastion. Each of these manufacturers

space over several floors, all designed with the customer in mind. The profusion of fitting rooms, all clearly labelled, along with the distinct branding of each section of shop, ensures this is a retail experience it’s possible to enjoy. Kätlin Kikkas has worked for Baltika in the past as one of the creative minds behind the look of the company’s stores, but she is now making waves of her own as the woman behind KÄT Design, which focuses on fun uses of natural fabrics, with eye-catching patterns often coming into play. Having styled the 2016 Estonian Eurovision contestant Jüri Pootsmann, Kikkas is clearly a young person with an eye for classic, clean lines, but her clothing also shows a keen attention to detail. Stop by at KÄT’s showroom, on Telliskivi 60a, third floor - it’s appointment-only, but the designer will be glad to hear from you, either by calling +372 55545537 or emailing kat@katdesign.ee.

WHA TEXT ŽENJA FOKIN PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

takes different styling cues, with Monton, for example, generally being considered a young, fun brand, with bright colours prevailing along with slim cuts to the company’s men’s and women’s collections. Mosaic, similarly, is for the young at heart, while a label like Ivo Nikkolo or Baltman aims to appeal more to the wellheeled man or woman about town, who perhaps is already well-established in a profession. Baltika clothing may have left Viru Keskus, but Monton can still be found in the Kaubamaja department store or across Tammsaare Park in Solaris, while there are Monton and other Baltika shops in the Kristiine, Rocca Al Mare and Ülemiste shopping centres. However, for the full view of incoming and outgoing collections, including some eye-catching designs you might not find elsewhere, head to Baltika Kvartal, on Veerenni 24, the central office of the parent company, and also the home to a massive

The spring fashion stage is cir-

cling some of our favourite things and everyone will certainly find something beautiful, because fashi-

on means beauty! Clothes have to beautify the person that wears them, add sparkle to their eyes and a spring in their step. Individuality is in fashion, carefree 70s flower child joy, intoxicating vita-

min tones, pastels, and artistic geometry. Be sure to wear casual tennis shoes with your favourite dress, find a comfortable leather jacket and sunglasses, because summer is not far off!

This season’s hottest colour - orange! Dress KAREN MILLEN €199 Coat Seppälä €69.99 Choker Expressions €4.50 Casual shoes ECCO €124.90

Jacket MOHITO €49.99 Geometric dress Seppälä €49.99 Shoes NS KING €49.99 Glasses MIU MIU €340 PUPILO optical shop

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Silk lilac blouse €79 LÄHEB (Made in Estonia) www.laheb.ee Geometric skirt €39.99 MOHITO Leather shoes €94 Dune London (Viru Keskus) Glasses Tom Ford €329 PUPILO

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

hion on the Rise Another up-and-coming designer who made her name at Baltika is former Monton head women’s designer Piret Puppart, who runs her own womenswear label, Uschanka. Puppart has a fascination with the cultural and social history of the Finno-Ugric peoples, something she feeds both by working as a lecturer at the Estonian Academy of Arts, but also by taking regular trips to far-off villages and towns, in order to get closer to her own ancestry. This interest is reflected in her imaginative collections for Uschanka, which seem like the perfect balance between past, present and future, with elaborate classic patterns meeting strong, bold colour statements. Several of the guests at the President of Estonia’s Independence Day Ball wore Uschanka, in a great endorsement for a new label. If you want to see for yourself what Uschanka stands for, you can try on, and buy, the latest collection

at Zero Boutique, which is in Baltika Kvartal.

Aiming squarely at the young, fun and upwardly-mobile is two year-old Tallinn-based label Kokomo. The company produces excellent-quality fabrics, which would compare well against anything you’d find in other stores. Among my favourites are the overcoats, in either bright pastel colours or more restrained greens, browns and greys; they achieve the essential objective in the Baltics of keeping the wearer as stylish, and as warm, as possible. I used Kokomo coats with Uschanka tops and dresses for a recent photoshoot with emerging Estonian pop group ky!, taken by Anneli Loorits - the interview with the group, and pictures, can be seen on my website, charmoffensive.ee.

For these occasions, there is an Estonian fashion label which has spread its influence to the glitziest corners of Europe. The beautiful people of Monaco’s bars, clubs and casinos have been photographed wearing Gerli A. Chantelle, the dresses produced by Tallinn and Tartu-based designer Gerli Chantelle Põldoja. They’re most definitely items for making a statement, with mesh and lace used often but although this is a key identifier for Gerli A. Chantelle’s clothing, you will find dresses for any party or function, whether you want to be sexy, classy, or sassy. Another recent photoshoot, with Estonian figure skater Johanna Allik, taken by Anete Palmik, gave me a chance to get a closer look at the most recent Gerli A. Chaltelle collection. Make sure you take a look for yourself, at Suur-Karja 13 in the

Kokomo clothing can be found in Watch Wear, in the Solaris shopping centre, Estonia Pst 9.

Old Town.

Sometimes, the aim is just for a woman to look as elegant as possible, to be the belle of the ball.

Estonian fashion is full of fun, and full of new ideas. Why not take a look for yourself? ■

AT’S IN FASHION? Where to buy Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2 ■ Ecco ■ Miu Miu @ Kaubamaja

Light wool dress with pockets LÄHEB €125 ZERO, Shoes DANIJA €69

■ ■ ■ ■

Calvin Klein Perdo del Hierro Expressions Karen Millen

Dress Calvin Klein €169 Nju (Foorum Keskus) Choker Expressions €3.99 Bag MERÏKH €249 (www.merikh.com)

■ ■ ■

Mohito Dune London Pupilo

Foorum Shopping Centre Narva mnt 5, Tallinn a2 ■ Nju ■ Sno’b

Check out this great combo! Silk dress Six Ames €209 SNO’B) MOHITO Sweater €39.99 Ženja Bag by Kadri Kruus €250 (www.kadrikruus.com) Casual shoes ECCO €124.90

Kristiine Keskus Endla 45, Tallinn b1 ■ Danija ■ NS King ■ Seppälä

Blouse Pedro del Hierro €79 Electric blue trousers Perdo del Hierro €129 (Viru Keskus) Bag MERÏKH €99 SNO’B (Foorum Keskus) Sunglasses Ray-Ban €195 (www.laatsed.com)

STYLE: ŽENJA FOKIN MAKEUP AND HAIR: MAARJA-LIISA KALLIT (WWW.INTESALON.EE) MODEL: SANDRA V THANKS TO: BABOR SPA (WWW.BABORSPA.EE )

Blouse with ballerinas LÄHEB €79 Skirt MOHITO €44.99 Shoes DANIJA €69

beauty

Undiscovered Relaxation There’s nothing wrong with a little bit of indulgence at one of Estonia’s spas.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Spa culture in Estonia is by no

means a new phenomenon. The first spas date back a few hundred years when the benefits of curative mud were discovered. Since then, Estonians have been going to resort towns like Pärnu, Haapsalu, Kuressaare and NarvaJõesuu to enjoy the spas. Today, there are hundreds of spas all over Estonia and there are many right here in Tallinn as well. Enjoy a day of pampering, or take your kids along to one of the water parks. A few hours at the spa can be the perfect balance with a few hours of sightseeing. Tallinn has many day spas where you can come for a day or afternoon of relaxation and wellness. Here you can come for things like chocolate body wraps, hot stone massage or just a simple traditional massage. Most of the day spas in Tallinn offer facials, manicures and pedicures, as

Enjoy a weekend away.

Have you ever tried a facial?

well as waxing. Many of the hotels also have day spas within their complexes. Whether in a hotel or in the Old Town, bookings are always recommended. The word spa conveys many meanings, so it’s wise to familiarise yourself with what each

one offers before planning your vacation. There are: 1) medical spas, 2) spa and wellness spas, and 3) medical and wellness spas together. Medical spas are licensed to provide outpatient medical care. Travelling with your family? Many spas encourage you to bring your children. They often have playrooms or playgrounds and slides, and organise activities for children. Some spas even have procedures and treatments especially for children. There are sports and other activities offered at all of the spas, and some offer even more. Be sure to look into this before you book. Depending on the client, entertainment programmes vary. English is widely spoken in most spas, so if in doubt, just ask. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

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Wine History Luscher & Matiesen’s new wine restaurant offers a cosy meal in the heart of the Old Town. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

For those not familiar with the story, Luscher & Matiesen was a There are hundreds of wines to choose from at Gloria Wine Cellar.

Tasting Notes Hundreds of bottles line the walls of Gloria Wine Cellar. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The menu at Gloria Wine Cellar is a combination of classic

Gloria Wine Cellar, located under

French and Estonian cuisine. Try the grilled goat’s cheese salad or the scallops with truffled risotto and kale to start. The pumpkin velouté with applesmoked goat’s cheese is also a good choice. The main courses cover all the bases, save for a vegetarian option, unfortunately. We tried the beef tenderloin with celeriac and leek and a demi glace sauce, as well as the chicken liver with chorizo and honey sauce. The flavour combination of the salty chorizo and honey sauce was good, however, if you like your liver rare, then be sure to mention that when ordering. Ours was a little more on the medium well side. For dessert, the pavlova with lime and berries offered a fresh finish to filling meal, but a classic creme brulee is also not a bad note to end on either. If you’d prefer something lighter to enjoy with you wine, Gloria Wine Cellar has some lovely platters to nibble on while you enjoy a bottle. Choose between cheese, mediterranean hams, tapas, or bruschetta. While Gloria Wine Cellar is ideal for a cosy evening during the colder months, in summer, visitors can look forward to an outdoor terrace. ■

the famous Gloria restaurant has been a fixture of the Tallinn culinary scene since the mid-nineties. It has one of the most extensive wine lists in the country. The restaurant is separated into different rooms in this ancient cellar. Upon entering, you find yourself in the wine shop. The main room offers a view into the kitchen and a table by the fireplace. It’s odd that for a wine wine bar and restaurant, there really isn’t a wine list. A small selection of wines are available by the glass, which the server will tell you about. If you’d prefer to enjoy a bottle, then you can choose one from the wine shop where one of Gloria’s helpful sommeliers can help you.

Location Gloria Veinikelder Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town i1

flourishing wine and spirits cellar in the 1920s and 30s in Tallinn. In 2009, Luscher & Matiesen reopened under the direction of two Finnish partners. Since then, the business has done very well, with a fascinating wine museum located on Toompea in Tallinn’s Old Town, a farm and winery on Muhu Island, and most recently, a fine dining restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town. Magus Auk or “Sweet Hole” is named after the Pikk Street wine cellar of the same name that was “the hub of Tallinn social life in the 19th century”. Peke Eloranta, on the founders of Luscher & Matiesen wanted to create cosy, yet elegant dining experience in the heart of the Old Town. Eloranta is the sommelier at Magus Auk and can be seen most evenings helping customers choose a great bottle. The dining room is indeed cosy with

a handful of candle-lit tables filled with couples and small groups. The fire place in the corner of the room crackles quietly. Start your meal off with a glass of Cremant, then read through the short, yet extensive menu. We tried the creamy miso soup with foie

Sommelier Peke Eloranta at Magus Auk.

gras, pear, and smoked aubergine, which was rich, yet balanced by the sweetness of the pear and smokiness of the aubergine. It paired well with a glass of riesling. The main course, called Duck/ Duck was a delicately cooked duck breast and duck leg confit that was served with savoy cabbage, barley, and a raspberry, truffle foie gras sauce. There were a lot of flavours in this dish, but the raspberry and the barley were a surprising hit. It paired well with a glass of tempranillo. The meal finished with the cheese platter, a selection of French cheeses served with a spiced carrot jam. The beauty of a small restaurant is the intimate atmosphere it

creates. The friendly and helpful staff at Magus Auk only add to this experience. ■

Location Magus Auk Pühavaimu 7, Tallinn Old Town g2

--------------------Appetisers: €9–11 Mains: €12–29 Dessert: €6–7 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Taste Test: Chicken Wi In search of the perfect wing. TEXT AND PHOTOS: KRISTINA LUPP

Flats or drums? Mild or spicy? Buf-

falo, crispy or boneless? What is it that makes the perfect wing? The Baltic Guide went to try some of the chicken wings around Tallinn. Here’s what we found out:

The hottest: If you want the heat, the Ero-Style chicken wings at Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina won’t disappoint. The wings come uncut tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce that you can see the chili seeds floating it. Be warned, they are hot, like bring tears to your eyes hot. Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Pikk 43, Tallinn Old Town

Almost there:

Classic:

Everyone knows the eating wings is messy business. The new Albion Bar and Grill in Tallinn’s Old Town was the only place that offered a bowl of water with lemon for cleaning your fingers. The wings were mild, yet flavourful with a classic buffalo wing sauce. The Albion Bar & Grill Harju 7, Tallinn Old Town

Mack Bar-B-Que is the place to go for XXL portions of classic American dishes. We tried the BBQ honey wings and the buffalo wings. The BBQ honey wings were a bit sweet for our taste, but the buffalo wings were just right and served with celery sticks and blue cheese dip. Mack Bar-B-Que Tartu mnt 63, Tallinn

Classic Buffalo wings at Mack Bar-B-Que.

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

AWARD-WINNING FOOD PRODUCTS Estonia's top food products are

Sweet tooth Tallinn’s café culture dates back 100 years. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKTOV

Pre-war Tallinn was famous for its elegant cafés and names like

Stude, Feischner, Kultas and Corso are still in the minds of some of Tallinn’s older residents. Here’s a look at some modern-day cafés to try while in the nation’s capital.

Saiakangi Kohvik

Gourmet Coffee

Saiakang is one of the best people watching spots in town. With an entire window as a wall facing onto the narrow Saiakang passage, sip on a coffee while enjoying free WiFi, and watch the people the go by. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen. Saiakang 3, Tallinn Old Town h2

The locals say that Gourmet Coffee is the best coffee in town, but we’ll let you be the judge. Coffee beans are roasted on site and can be brought home, or enjoy a cup in the café along with meal or a pastry. Various locations throughout the city. Pärnu maantee 15, Tallinn b2

De Vos Belgian Bakery & Resto

Caffeine

A tiny taste of Belgium has come to Tallinn, in the form of De Vos, a bakery, confectionary and restaurant. All pastries are made from organic Estonian grains. Most of the flour is ground using a stone mill. Narva mnt 6, Tallinn a2

Caffeine is a rather quickly growing chain of coffee bars in Tallinn and Tartu. Their modern and stylish interior is the perfect place to enjoy a great cup of coffee, maybe a pastry, and relax. Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3 Harju 3, Tallinn Old Town i1 Mündi 3, Tallinn Old Town h2

Maiasmokk Kohvik Maiasmokk has great pastries and an even better interior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude. Pikk 16, Tallinn Old Town g2

ings

Coffee Bar 10133 Coffee Bar 10133 opened up one of the smallest shops in town. With little more than a couple of seats (this place is really more of a takeaway), size doesn’t matter when ordering a cup of great coffee. There is also a small selection of pastries to choose from. Suurtüki 2, Tallinn Old Town f2

chosen every year. The best dairy product is Valio Atleet Cheddar and Farmi soured whole milk. Läätsa fisheries received the silver medal for dried sprats from Saaremaa. Lotte rice pudding and Felix salmon mayonnaise also won in their categories. Of the bread products, Eesti Leivatööstus won with their rye bread and of the bakery products, Gustav’s

royal seabuckthorn-cheese roll won, a products that is prepared at Mattias Café. The best meat products were Rannarootsi grill shank and Tallegg’s rye breaded patties. Põltsamaa’s Autumn Salad won in the vegetable category. The best children’s food was Salvest’s four-grain porridge with bananas and blueberries. Balbino’s mango smoothie sorbet won in the dessert category. ■

Café Lyon Order yourself a croissant or pain au chocolat (one of the best in Tallinn) and sit down with or take-away a great cup of coffee. If you’re looking for something a bit more filling, they also offer a breakfast menu complete with different kinds of omelettes. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn (Tammsaare park side) a2

Reval Café Reval Café is chain of coffee shops and has a few locations in the Old Town. Their menu offers light meals, and the display is always filled with appetising cakes and pastries. (Old Town locations) Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3 Vene 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

The new bar Ükskõik is open daily from 16:00 to 04:00, at weekends until 05:00.

RESTAURANT NEWS Our favourite: WingStopp is certainly off the beaten track, but not too far from the city centre. True wing lovers will not be disappointed. They offer traditional, crispy, and boneless wings with your choice of one of their housemade sauces. Hot BBQ has a nice kick and when combined with honey BBQ, it’s even better. WingStopp also had the best prices, but unfortunately they don’t serve alcohol. WingStopp Kunderi 23, Tallinn

True wing lovers will not be disappointed at WingStopp.

Tallink Express Hotel restaurant Tempo is offering a warm lunch special in addition to their buffet on weekdays. Every weekday you can choose between four different soups, one of which is sweet. There are also two warm main dishes with sides. The buffet price together is 9 and 6 separately. Get 10 off with you Club One card. The buffet is all-you-can-eat. The soup buffet is open at weekends and holidays. The new bar Ükskõik is open daily from 16:00 to 04:00, at weekends until 05:00. Enjoy dancing and live music. Viis Pirukat, located in Tallinn’s city centre offer reason-

ably priced salads, soups, and warm dishes. For example the potato pastie costs 1, the meat pasties only 20 cents more. The Angus burger together with sides costs 7.80. The popularity of burgers can be seen in many places. Burgerito, in the city centre offers shashlik, grilled meats, and hot dogs. From 8:00, you can enjoy breakfast as well. ■

Location Restoran Tempo, Sadama 9, Tallinn a2 Ükskõik, Pikk 35, Tallinn Old Town g2 Viis Pirukat, Narva mnt 7, Tallinn a2 Burgerito, Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn b2

WWW.

.EE

-10

Restaurant & Trahter - Raekoja Plats 15

Cafe «TROIKA» - Mere pst.5 cafe@troika.ee, +372 631 37 65

troika@troika.ee, +372 627 62 45

Mexican Restaurant and Bar ANCHO Real Mexican food and drink Open Su-Th 12-23, Fri, Sat 12-02 Address: Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town Telephone: 6600498 www.ancho.ee

Special offer.. Mexico First Craft Bears €5,50 Pork Ribs XL €13,50

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s

Read articles online:

April Offer Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

www.balticguide.ee

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

Offering tasty thick crust American-style pizza since 1995.

We are located at M端端rivahe 2, Tallinn Opening hours: Su-We 11:30-21:30, Th-Sa 11:30-22:30 Tel: +372 644 8837

If you are after good food, top quality wine, and friendly service in a cosy atmosphere, SPOT is just the place for you. In our restaurant you will find more than 200 champagnes and they can all be enjoyed alongside delicacies from our a la carte menu. Stop in for a great meal! We are always happy to have you. Restoran SPOT, Vene 4, 10123, Tallinn, Estonia phone:+372 600 4977; e-mail: spot@restoranspot.ee www.restoranspot.ee

restau

Tallinn Resta

Local cuisine at Leib Resto & Aed.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

vegetarian VON KRAHLI AED Aed is a great choice for vegetarian and vegan cuisine in Tallinn, and here is why: everything is clearly labelled on the menu.The menu changes seasonally and there is always something fresh and creative to taste. Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

ELEVANT Indian food is also a go-to choice for vegetarian travellers, and Elevant is Tallinn’s longest running Indian restaurant, open for 17 years. Serving sizes are generous, and main courses come with rice and salad. If you want to try a bit of everything, share a thali. Vene 5, Tallinn Old Town h2

NOP Bookings are a must at Vegan Restoran V.

Nop’s selection changes seasonally, conjuring up some of the freshest and innovative veggie eats in the city. But don’t worry—your omnivore friends will be delighted here too. Nop is located in the suburb of Kadriorg, which is about a tenminute tram ride from the Old Town (No. 1 or 3 tram). Köleri 1, Tallinn a4

Kohvik Inspiratsioon Serving up a selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes, this small café is a great addition to the Tallinn dining scene. Dishes are creative and filling, the prices reasonable, and the staff friendly. Lai 44, Tallinn Old Town f2

Vegan Restoran V V is always packed. Vegan or not, everyone should go and try the food here. Dishes are inspiring and show just how tasty a meat-free diet can be. Bookings are a must. Rataskaevu 12, Tallinn Old Town h1

Modern Estonian cuisine at MEKK.

There are plenty of vegetarian options at Elevant.

We asked locals what their favourite spots

MAMO Mamo opened with the intention of offering a healthy alternative for a quick lunch, and this is just what they did. Mamo’s menu is also very well labelled, indicating which dishes are gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan, or vegetarian. Mamo offers daily lunch specials, including soups, stews, and salads. Liivalaia Mamo Liivalaia 14, Tallinn b2 Tornimäe Mamo Tornimäe 5, Tallinn

Generous portions at Vanaema Juures.

estonian Vanaema Juures

Farm

Vanaema Juures offers traditional Estonian fare. Dishes are served up just like granny used to plate them –generously. Try the appetiser platter for a bit of everything and the braised beef cheeks as a main. And don’t forget the pancakes for dessert! Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town h1

Farm opened last year to bring modern Estonian cuisine to Tallinn. The restaurant’s interior is rustically elegant and the glass-enclosed open kitchen is the centre of attention in the middle of the room. A great place to try some traditional Estonian flavours reinvented. Müürivahe 27B, Tallinn Old Town h3

Liisu Juures Estonians are known for their salted or marinated fish. To start, try the fried and marinated herring or a sprat sandwich with a shot of vodka. The creamy pea soup is also a good appetiser, but careful with Estonian soups, they are hearty and filling! The main courses reflect the Estonian people’s love of meat. Our favourite is the sausage platter with three different kinds of sausage, including the traditional blood sausage served at Christmas. Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, be sure to try the sausage feast. And what a feast it is! The platter includes different kinds of sausages with potatoes and sauerkraut. To drink, try a pint of the house ale. Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1

Leib Leib Resto ja Aed is the dream of sommelier Kristjan Peäske and chef Janno Lepik,two friends turned restaurateurs. Their love for good food and good wine can be seen in the restaurant’s seasonal menus, and the ever-changing wine list. All of Leib’s raw ingredients come from local farms and producers, the majority of which are organic too. Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3

Mekk MEKK stands for Moodne Eesti Köögi Kunst, or modern Estonian cuisine in English, and this is exactly how MEKK’s food can be described. The flavours of traditional Estonian foods are combined with modern cooking techniques to produce wonderfully flavourful and colourful dishes. Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town i2

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

urant Guide

Slovakian chef Radoslav Mitro runs the kitchen at Ribe.

to eat are in the city. Here’s what they said: Gelsomino

Troika

While the menu at Gelsomino has a great selection of classic Italian dishes, it’s the pizza you must try. It’s a true favourite among locals, and some say the best pizza in town. Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

This long-running Russian restaurant expanded last year to cater to the ever-growing demand for authentic Russian food, drink, and service. The walls and bright interior are luxurious, but in no way excessive. The authentic Russian food is well known at Troika and the service is theatrical. Think: waiters pouring vodka shots from high up. Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town h2

Chakra

international

This is the best option for Indian in Tallinn. It’s located in Tallinn’s Old Town in a tiny passageway. The three dining rooms are rich- ly decorated with bright fabrics that hang from the ceiling. The menu is long, offering everything from veggies to seafood, chicken and lamb. And best of all: spicy means spicy. Bremeni Käik 1 / Uus 19, Tallinn Old Town g3

Krua Krua is praised by local for being the best Thai restaurant in the city. Why? Food is fresh, service is friendly and helpful, spice and heat are well balanced in the dishes and you can eat in or takeaway. We’ll let you decide. Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town g3

Ehe Maitse Gurmee Vinoteek

Korsaar

Enjoy a glass of wine and a small snack at this great little Italian wine bar. Located just off the main square, Ehe Maitse also serves of great lunch specials like different types of pasta. Great food and great prices - a hidden dining secret among locals. Mündi 3, Tallinn Old Town h2

This pirate-themed restaurant may seem a bit absurd in the middle of a medieval Old Town, but ignore this, go inside, and get ready for some great seafood. Prices are on the higher end, but service was good and so was the food. Dunkri 5, Tallinn Old Town h1

Gotsu

Konteiner

This Latin restaurant is certainly worth a visit. Their tortillas are handmade, the quesadillas were fantastic, as were the beef empanadas. The margaritas were also a hit. Telliskivi 60, Tallinn

Gotsu is the best place for Korean food in Tallinn, hands down. It’s a little ways out of the Old Town, but worth the walk, or short tram ride. Try some of the house made ice tea, kimchi, and the fried chicken with chilli. Pärnu mnt 62a, Tallinn c1

Cerrito Burrito

Ancho

One of the latest additions to the ever-growing restaurant scene in the Bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja, Konteiner serves up Vietnamese food in, well, a shipping container. Their red chicken curry was nice and hot, and the summer rolls were a fresh start to the meal. Telliskivi 62, Tallinn

The short menu at Cerrito Burrito offers tacos, salads, soups, nachos, and burritos, of course. There is something for everyone, including gluten-free tortillas and vegetarian fillings. Spicy means spicy here, but you can add even more to your burrito with their selection of hot sauces. Estonia pst 9, Solaris 1st floor, Tallinn b2

The stuffed jalapenos are a must, especially if you like spice. The chillies are stuffed with melted cheese, battered and fried, and served with sour cream. Come for Taco Tuesdays where you can get three different tacos, all for €5. Wash it all down with one of their Mexican beers. Check their Facebook page for daily specials. Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town i3

Schnitzel Haus If you’re in the mood for some great schnitzel, this is the place to come. Tucked away in the corner of the Old Town, enjoy different kinds and different sized schnitzels and wash it down with one of their draught beers. Rüütli 28, Tallinn Old Town i1

La Tabla

Great food and friendly service at Troika.

Papa Joe’s Falafel Located in the port area of Tallinn, Papa Joe’s Falafel has a small menu of vegetarian and meat dishes, and now serving beef schwarma as well. Be sure to try the grilled halloumi and sujuk wrap. The falafels are prepared while you wait, and you can take some dips and olives home as well. Sadama 25/4, Tallinn a2

Pegasus

Art Priori

Pegasus reopened its doors in its original location in Tallinn’s Old Town. The playful menu boasts international cuisine with Estonian flavours. Dishes are well-prepared, beautifully plated, and combine subtle flavours that go well together. Harju 1, Tallinn Old Town i1

Art Priori aims to combine art and food, though the food is a work of art itself. The balance of flavours is wellexecuted and the menu is creative and unique. Between the beautiful interior, professional and friendly service, semi-open kitchen to watch all the action, and of course the creative menu, Art Priori is a dining experience well-recommended. Olevimägi 7, Tallinn Old Town f3

Rataskaevu 16 Rataskaevu 16 is one of the top restaurants in Tallinn on TripAdvisor and it’s not just the good food, but the truly superb service that makes this place great. Check their Facebook page for daily lunch specials and be sure to make a booking. Rataskaevu 16, Tallinn Old Town h1

Salt This small Kadriorg bistro aims to share the flavours of the world. Tiina Treumann, owner of Salt restaurant has travelled extensively. “I want to bring the flavours of favourites dishes I have tried and share them here in Tallinn”. Try the beetroot ravioli. This colourful dish is fantastic whether you’re vegetarian or not. Thinly sliced beetroot is wrapped around fresh goat’s cheese and served with pistachios and mango cream. To complement the everchanging weekly menu, Tiina has composed a drinks list focusing mostly on artisan wines and beers. Vase 14, Tallinn

Tokumaru Located just above the cinema in the Solaris Shopping Centre, Tokumaru is Tallinn’s first ramen place. In addition to ramen, there is also a good selection of sushi. For something different, try the Aburi salmon – it’s salmon sushi that has been cooked slightly on the top and served with a thin slice of lemon. Estonia pst 9, Solaris 2nd floor, Tallinn b2

Ribe Slovakian chef Radoslav Mitro runs the kitchen at Ribe. His cooking style encompasses the simplicity of local seasonal ingredients, and incorporates elements of classical French and Nordic cuisines. Named one of Estonia’s best restaurants, come for a great meal without too much of a splurge. Vene 7, Tallinn Old Town g2

Ramen at Tokumaru.

events

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Crazy Jumps and Living Legends Simple Session brings skateboarders and BMXers (including one of the best) to Tallinn in April.

You can watch Simple Session online, but watching it live and in person is indeed much more thrilling. “The competition is suitable for people of all ages, and you won’t see such top competition all in one place anywhere else”, explains Liina Ristoja, press coordinator for Simple Session. The atmosphere is electric. The top skateboarders and BMX riders will do amazing tricks that you won’t see anywhere else. The legendary Nate Wessel will devise a skatepark for the tenth time.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

About 140 of the best riders from

30 different countries, including USA and Brazil will come to the Saku Suurhall. For the 16th year in a row, Simple Session is one of the most anticipated events of its kind in the world. The competitions begin Saturday with skateboarding and BMX qualifiers. On Sunday, those that qualified will pass on to the finals. Awards will be distributed after the finals.

Simple Session is not to be missed by skateboard and BMX fans.

In addition to parties, films will be shown and you can even meet and greet some of the competitors. Mat Hoffman, the legendary BMX rider will be at this year’s Simple Session, he’s known by the name The Condor, boasts Ristoja and and promises the fans will have the chance to meet their idols. ■

Location Simple Session 30 April - 1 May, Saku Suurhall, Tallinn. Tickets available from Piletilevi.

New Directions TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Taxi regulations are being changed in Estonia to include

ride sharing options. Uber and Taxify are already widely used here. Uber’s minimum fare is 3. The

Have you tried Taxify?

starting fare is 1.90, the minute price is 0.15 and the kilometre price is 0.35. Your credit card is automatically charged from the app at the end of the ride.

Taxify is an Estonian taxi app,

which is already being used in 10 countries. Last year, 2.2 million rides were ordered from 3163 taxis from the app. The app was upgraded in April. Now you can choose between different types of taxis, from mini buses to small cars, as well as from electric cars to luxury cars. The cheapest option is a private car, which starts at 1.90 and then 0.40 per kilometre. A luxury car base fare is 3.50 and costs 0.75 per kilometer.

According to Taxify’s statistics, one of the most popular pickup points in Tallinn is in the Old Town by the chimney sweep statue. Elektritakso runs in Tallinn, Tartu,

and Pärnu. All of the company’s cars are environmentally friendly and small electric cars. The base fare is 2.60 and the price per kilometre is 0.60. You can order a car through Taxify or by calling 1918. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

events

Rhythms of Jazz in Tallinn The 27th annual Jazzkaar festival brings jazz music to Estonia’s capital. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA

Jazzkaar was voted Estonia’s best Photo: Live Nation Baltic

music festival last year (and Estonia has a lot of music festivals). The list of performers this year is top class and includes some of Estonia’s hottest musicians and top international artists. “I am very happy that Estonian jazz has gotten this much attention from Europe and artists like

Mariah Carey American superstar Mariah Carey will make a stop in Tallinn at the Saku Suurhall on her Sweet Sweet Fantasy tour. Tickets are €49 at Piletilevi.

Kadri Voorand, Peedu Kass, Laura Remmel, Sofia Rubina, and Villu Veski perform often at internatio-

6 April

Photo: Tamas Talabar

nal jazz events”, write the festival’s artistic director, Anne Erm. Jazzkaar awards the best jazz artist award every year. This year there is a formal gala event in the programme, where previous year’s winners will perform. The artists mentioned above will also be in attendance. Jazzkaar also has some well known

international artists on the programme. This year the list is impressive. “One favourite is the Parisian pianist-composer-singer Bachar Mar-Khalife, who fled the war in Lebanon as a young child. He graduated from the Paris conservatory has has performed with his band, as well as with a symphony orchestra. His music has enormous depth, and as a world citizen he feels at home in both Iceland and Estonia”. Anne Erm also mentions the guitar legend Al Di Meolat. “Every rock and jazz music

Tallinn Handicraft Fair fan will surely find the album Friday Night in San Francisco on their shelf, on which John McLaughlin, Al Di Meola, and Paco de Lucia all play together. They have all left footprints in music history”. Other headliners for the festival include top saxophonist Chris Potter, multi-instrumentalist Bernhoft, and Cuban pianist Roberto Fonseca.

The festival will take place at the Telliskivi Creative City like last year. You can find the entire Jazzkaar programme at www.jazzkaar.ee ■

Location Jazzkaar, 22 April - 1 May at Telliskivi Loomelinnak, Punane Maja, and Vaba Lava. Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn. Ticket on sale at Piletilevi.

22-24 April Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Narva mnt 95, Tallinn

Peruse local and traditional handicrafts at this three-day fair at the Song Festival Grounds. There will be a great selection of knitwear, ceramics, homemade candles, jewellery, leather goods, preserves, honey, and other local foods by small producers and local farmers.

Tallinn Swing Weekend 29 April - 1 May

The fourth annual Tallinn Swing Weekend promises four days of dancing fun. The weekend will include swing dancing, workshops, and of course great music. Learn from some great dance teachers from the UK, Finland, and USA. Two dance parties will give you plenty of time to practice your skills. Visit the Tallinn Swing Dance Society Facebook page for more info and registration.

Out of the shadow. First female photographers in Estonia This fascinating exhibit looks at the works of Estonia’s first female photographers from the early 20th century. See the works of photographers Anna Kukk (18851960), Lydia Tarem (1904-1979), Hilja Riet (1905-2006) and Evi Lemberg (19041999).

Photo: Jazzkaar

Top local and international jazz artists will come to Tallinn in the last week of April.

Until 30 June Town Council Prison - Museum of Photography Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum 10

www.linnamuuseum.ee

historic locaƟons

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

A fascinating exhibit for anyone interested in the kitchen.

1 CITY MUSEUM at Vene Street 17. A medieval merchant’s dwelling in

the centre of the Old Town. CERAMICS COLLECTION

2 MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK

and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road

3 THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at >ƺhiŬe ũalŕ ϵ a 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street 5 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street 6 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM MIIAMILLA in Kalamaja and Kadriorg

Kalamaja, at 16, Kotzebue Street. Museum of childhood with a collecƟon of children’s toǇs and ƉlaǇthings. 7 Kadriorg, at 21, Koidula Street. Colorful theme museum for children tƌŝƚĞƌ͛Ɛ ŵƵƐĞƵŵƐ ǁŝƚŚ ĂƵƚŚĞŶƟĐ ŝŶƚĞƌŝŽƌƐ͗

8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas 10 RUSSIAN MUSEUM Wikk street 2ϵ a

Kitchen: Changing Space, Design and Applied Art in Estonia This new exhibit at the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design looks at the changing environment in our most important room, the kitchen. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

he kitchen is the central room in most homes. It has seen many significant changes over the last century. This exhibit looks at the development of the kitchen as a space, from the early 20th century to present, and also includes some objects related to the theme “ kitchen”. In the first half of the 20th century, much attention was paid to efficiency and hygiene. Then, as the role of women changed, so

did the kitchen. There was much change in the kitchen during the early part of the 20th century. Industrialisation lead to the improvement in efficiency of the kitchen as well as hygiene. The position of women also changed. What’s perhaps most fascinating about this exhibit is the look at the Soviet kitchen – the minimalist kitchen designed for tiny Soviet-era apartments, and especially the different types of kitchen furniture. The exhibit displays an array of objects, kitchen designs and

plans, as well as many interesting photographs. The exhibit “Kitchen: Changing Space, Design and Applied Art in Estonia”, will be on display until 15 May 2016. ■

Location Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town f2 Open We-Su 11.00-18.00

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.3

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/ tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-andkgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian. ■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ AAPPRRI ILL 22001166

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Vineeri

Tihase

Majaka põik

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja Tedre

Airport

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

Where to buy

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ AAPPRRI ILL 22001166

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

A little bit of Texas in Tallinn.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

e were bored. We wanted to find a way out of the usual Saturdaynight cycle of disappointment. My friends and I decided, rather than go to the usual winebars and overly-noisy clubs, we would head to the pubs. Specifically, we would go to the popular pubs and drinking houses of the Old Town in Tallinn, where tourists often went, but locals rarely did. Why didn’t we usually go to these places? It’s difficult to say, given that they’re mostly designed with foreigners in Estonia in mind. Maybe it was snobbery. Maybe it was just a lack of imagination. Whatever it was, we felt it was time to get back into the pub habit.

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar

We began, as was once traditional, at Beer House (Dunkri 5, Tallinn Old Town h1), a Germanstyle watering hole on the lip of the hill that eventually leads up to the Danish Garden and Toompea. Beer House does its best with its surroundings, building in several rooms with different themes and atmospheres, although overall the whole building feels a bit too cavernous because of the very high ceilings and the enormous expanse of space the alehouse covers. That said, the beers on offer are spectacularly good, with one of the widest choices of any establishment. Don’t be surprised to find many beers you hadn’t previously known about. In addition, there is a very good menu, featuring wholesome Germanic treats and enough carbohydrates and protein to keep you full for a weekend. After Beer House, you’ll need to go to somewhere cosier and

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café

The Beer House is a German-style watering hole in the Old Town.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Club Baila

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

For something a bit more raucous, we went to Hell Hunt (Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2), which doesn’t actually mean what it seems to when an English-speaker scans its name. This is probably the most famous pub in Tallinn among visitors, and it’s certainly the most likely to be full on a weekend night. If you can find a

Café Amigo

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Karja Kelder

well-mannered place, where the service is practically flawless and even the English fish & chips - so often something that bars struggle with - is battered crisply with real, thick-cut chips that make it feel almost like home. If your home is a sedate, upmarket pub in Cheltenham.

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Karaoke

The Oak Lounge

where you can talk more easily with the people close to you. Clayhills Gastropub (Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town g2) has been on the part of Pikk Street that has a full view out onto Raekoja Plats for as long as most people can remember, and yet if you ask most local people, they’ll say they’ve never been there. To answer why is a conundrum - it’s packed with nooks and crannies in its compact bar area where diners and drinkers can recline in comfortable chairs. There is also regular, and very good, live music there. Perhaps it’s just that Clayhills has too much of a longstanding reputation as a go-to for tourists - however it’s classy,

X-baar

Protest

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Hell Hunt is probably one of the most famous pubs in Tallinn.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

La Casa del Habano

Põrgu

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS HELL HUNT

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

PUB HABIT

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Back in the

Tapper

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

table, you’ll have a great time, the place feels warm and inviting, the beer list, while not as comprehensive as Beer House, has enough variety to keep you interested, and live sports matches are shown on the screen. The service in Hell Hunt can leave a lot to be desired, but people work hard shifts there, so I say live and let live. If you’re lucky, you’ll find brownies made by legendary Korean-American chef Heidi Park, whose kitchen is based a few miles down the road. To finish, I suggested we head to Texas (Pikk 43, Tallinn Old Town f2). Not the state, but an American-style honky-tonk bar with low lighting, all-wooden interior, and a soundtrack that covers the entire narrow musical spectrum from Johnny Cash

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

to Neil Young and back. If you haven’t already eaten, try the bar’s burritos and tacos - if you have, sit back and enjoy the jolly service and a small but well-picked selection of beers. Texas isn’t necessarily an evening-ender - it’s also perfectly good at the start - but it is a very good place to go with your friends and a good mood; you can guarantee you’ll feel even better when you’ve spent some time in there. ■

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STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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