Tempus issue 33

33

Roger Dubuis / Winter sun special / P R I VAT E AV I AT I O N / Doha / Graff / Gift guide LU X U RY LEAT H ER / Rolls-Royce Ghost II / O M EGA / London’s best restaurants

NOT O N LY MINE BUT A PART OF ME www.francvila.com FV EVOS 18 “Cobra” Suspended Skeleton & FVq80 Tribute to Ladies FRANC VILA HEADQUARTERS & SHOWROOM Grand Rue 6 - Geneva +41 22 317 07 27

Chartering a private jet can take you wherever your passion lies. Much like setting sail on a private yacht, there is nothing quite like chartering your own plane and controlling your own travel agenda. But we also know not everyone wants the financial commitment of owning a jet or a fraction of one.

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Our industry-leading flight planning team are always on hand to help. And with a flat fee for all online bookings, our approach is completely transparent, so there are no unpleasant surcharges or surprises, ever.

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With a deep sea diver’s license and a high seas patent: the new Ahoi Atlantik

Now with selected retailers: Cambridge: Catherine Jones Jewellery; Cardiff: Fraser Hart, Watches of Switzerland; Chichester: Perfect Timing; Derbyshire: CW Sellors Ltd.; Edinburgh: Hamilton & Inches; Glasgow: Fraser Hart, Orro; Kent: Fraser Hart; Leicester: Stewart’s Watches; London: Fraser Hart, Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland; Manchester: Watches of Switzerland; Ruislip: CS Bedford. Find out more at nomos-watches.com, or order online at nomos-store.com

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ISSUE

THIRTY THREE

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4693 Designer

Marcus Leitch Commercial Director

Jay Boisvert

jay@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4697 Business Development Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4687 Head of Sales & Partnerships

Ray Fieldhouse

ray@curvecontent.com 0203 617 4684 CURVE CONTENT TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY CURVE CONTENT LTD, 3-7 HERBAL HILL, LONDON EC1R 5EJ PRINTED BY

It’s been a brilliant year at Tempus towers, with a host of cracking new watches launched and some seriously covetable luxury goods showcased on these pages. We’ve also enjoyed some memorable events – from bustling Baselworld to the more genteel Salon QP – and dispatched travel writers across the globe in search of the ultimate holiday experience.

With the latter in mind, this issue sees us showcase our biggest travel special to date, taking in everything from serene spa retreats to cosy Cotswolds hideaways, and dune-bashing in Doha to some of the best places on the planet to enjoy some winter sun.

We also highlight some of London’s hottest restaurants, check out the new Rolls-Royce Ghost II, reveal the best in luxury leather goods and talk to Clive Jackson, founder of Victor, the private jet company that has shaken up the aviation market.

Lastly, we get a behind the scenes look at luxury jewellery and watchmaker Graff, with our writer enjoying a tour of the atelier courtesy of Raymond Graff himself. It’s this kind of insider access that has kept Tempus at the top of every luxury aficionado’s reading list for the past three years. Look out for more exclusives in 2015 and beyond...

Scott Manson Editor - 15 -

Contributors

Tempus is proud to work with some of the UK’s finest timepiece and luxury writers, including:

Alex Doak

One of the UK’s most renowned watch writers, Alex gets the inside track on the fascinating world of Graff jewellery and timepieces, on page 55.

Peter Dean

Tempus’s resident wine columnist is also a seasoned travel writer and, on page 111, reveals the growing appeal of the city of Doha.

“Perhaps the most important development for a British watch brand for 50 years� C H R I S WAR D

Few watch brands create their own movement and of those that do, only a handful add something really original and important to the world of watchmaking. Our in-house, Calibre SH21, which powers the C9 Harrison 5 Day Automatic is one such movement. The C9 Harrison is destined to be one of the most talked about watches in years.

Jumeirah C arlton Tow er C adogan Place Tel: + 44 207 235 1323

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Inside ISSUE THIRTY THREE

22 Take Me There

73 Bring Me Sunshine

Looking for that picture-perfect Thai island? You’ll find it right here

Escape the cold of Europe with these wonderful winter breaks

25 Luxury Briefing

87 Luxury Leather

Our edit of the hottest products and places right now

Discover the hide you seek in our leather goods special

37 Food and Drink

92 High Flyer

How Clive Jackson, CEO of Victor, shook up the private aviation market

Where to eat, drink and be merry 41 The Word

96 Last-Minute Gift Ideas

Nicola Chilton on Asia’s artisan producers

Still got some festive shopping to do?

Don’t panic, we’ve got you covered

44 Watch Snob

101 Old-World Charm

Your horological conundrums answered

Discover the delights of The Old Swan and Minster Mill

46 Fashion and Accessories

103 State of Grace

The latest in luxe

Lime Wood is a rural retreat with a difference

48 Objects of Desire

A skeletonised masterpiece, courtesy of Roger Dubuis

107 Magic Motoring

Why the Rolls-Royce Ghost II could be the world’s greatest car

51 Style Advice

Sophisticated seasonal knitwear

111 Modern Masterpiece

55 The Magic of Graff

Alex Doak goes behind the scenes at the iconic watch and jewellery atelier

33

Graff

66 London’s Best Restaurants

/ Winter sun special / P R I VAT E AV I AT I O N / Doha / Roger Dubuis / Gift guide / Rolls-Royce Ghost II / O M EGA / London’s best restaurants

LU X U RY LEAT H ER

A trip to Doha sees our writer beguiled by this ‘starchitect’-designed desert oasis 122 Moments in Time

Chess Grandmaster Magnus Carlsen and his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial

Celebrating a year of dining in the capital

Special thanks: Graeme Allen

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Take me there Yao Noi, Thailand

Ask any seasoned southeast Asia traveller and they’ll tell you that the perfect unspoilt Thai island is a hen’steeth rarity. On beautiful Yao Noi, however, it’s still possible to enjoy a magical footprint-free sand experience away from the party crowds. With just a trickle of travellers and one of the most stunning coastal settings in the country, this tiny island – with its views of the area’s iconic limestone stacks – is also home to the similarly impressive Six Senses resort. From its impeccable service, decadent pampering and beautiful private pool villas, perched cliffiside like the treehouse of your dreams, this is the last word in rustic chic.

sixsenses.com

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etonshirts.com – facebook.com/etonofsweden

E TO N B R A N D S TO R E 5 3 s o u t h m o lt o n s t r e e t | l o n d o n

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Because the best things in life aren’t free Inspired by aviation

C LAY D O N R EEV ES

This beautiful, British-made machine is the Aeroboat, the brainchild of nautical design expert Mike Reeves. The carbon fibre and wood exterior is styled on the fluid lines of the iconic WWII Spitfire, while the interior takes its design cues from sports cars, complete with leather stitching and wooden dashboard. Priced at around £3m, it’s the perfect entry-level day boat or sleek, superyacht tender. Available in a limited edition run of 14. claydonreeves.com

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Gran Turismo

PO RS C H E 9 1 1 GTS

Last month saw the arrival of the second generation of Porsche’s 911 Carrera GTS in the showrooms, in the form of a coupe and a cabriolet, available with either rear- or all-wheel drive. Going from zero to 62mph in four seconds and offering greater fuel efficiency than ever before, this car is a credit to those clever engineers in Stuttgart. porsche.com

All the right moves

P U R LI N G LO N D O N

If you’re looking for something that combines a cerebral pastime with artistic flair, then Purling London’s Art Chess sets could be just the ticket. Designed for fine art collectors and players alike, the latest sets are individually hand-painted by four Britain-based artists.

Beautiful, unusual and a true talking point. purlinglondon.com

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One watch to rule them all

B U B EN & ZO RW EG

This German brand is best known for its stylish and rock-solid watch safes and winders but, as you can see, it also does a fine line in prestige timepieces, too. The One Tourbillon, available in a run of just 25 pieces and crafted in rose gold is a generously sized piece (46mm) which, in its Deluxe version, also comes studded with diamonds. A great watch from a great company. buben-zorweg.com

Ultimate ski chalet

FI R EFLY C O LLECT I O N

Those looking for the very best in slope-side, ski-in skiout accommodation should check out the stunning Le Petit Palais chalet in Courchevel 1850. Part of the everimpressive Firefly Collection, it includes a swimming pool, spa, butler, chef and even its own private nightclub.

Arguably one of the best chalets in the Alps. firefly-collection.com

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Clean and serene

N O M O S LA M B DA

This elegant, delicate beauty comes courtesy of the skilled watchmakers in the sleepy German town of Glashütte, home to the agenda-setting Nomos brand. Dubbed the Lambda Deep Blue, the 42mm case contains a manual wound caliber DUW 1001 with a swan-neck fine adjustment, sunbeam polishing and a hand-engraved balance cock. Non-horophiles need only know, however, that this is one damn fine watch. nomos-glashuette.com

SIHH preview

LA N G E & S O H N E

Geneva’s prestigious SIHH show always features some showstopping new watches, but it’s also a place to revisit some familiar old friends. The sleek Saxonia collection from German brand Lange & Söhne is a case in point, with its three updated models offering discreet dial design refinements to improve legibility. A classic gentleman’s dress watch range that the Tempus team seriously covets. alange-soehne.com

Limited edition

A R M A N D N I C O LET

Taking the best of the past and mixing it with a bang-upto-date design style, this limited edition L14 piece from boutique Swiss brand Armand Nicolet combines a reassembled 1957 UT 600 caliber with an eye-catching open-worked dial, all clad in a DLC-coated steel case. The Tramelanbased brand has restored 499 movements in total, with the number of each one engraved into the front of the movement.

A bold and welcome move from this up-and-coming atelier. armandnicolet.com

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BULANGANDSONS.COM

Image: Rob Truijen

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The year of the goat JAQU ET D ROZ

The arrival of the Chinese New Year in February is always a bumper time in the watch world, with many brands looking to celebrate the zodiac sign through the medium of some beguiling dial art. Jaquet Droz is first out of the blocks with two new Ateliers d’Art models. Each piece offers three springing goats crafted in gold relief with stylised plum blossom in a champlevé enamelling technique against a background of mother-ofpearl and white gold, or onyx and red gold, on the rest of the dial. Only 28 pieces of each model will be released. jaquet-droz.com

Safe and secure

G UA R D I A N WATC H SA FE

ProHunter, the after market watch modification specialist, has teamed up with German watch safe maestro Döttling to produce the Guardian watch safe.

It combines a GPS tracker with a double-walled highsecurity tube, encased in leather, and only accessed through a keycode. The tube’s polycarbonate content – a material also used for police shields – makes the Guardian extremely impact resistant, which makes it perfect for the rough and tumble of international travel. discoverprohunter.com

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French superbike

M I D UA L

With a production run of just 35 units and a price tag of over £100,000, this French-built bike is aimed solely at well-heeled bike enthusiasts. That price gets you a 1,036cc longitudinally mounted boxer-twin engine, which sits proudly in the machine’s bespoke frame, highlighted with painstakingly crafted artistic flares and accents. Little wonder that the bike was one of the most talked-about machines at this year’s Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. midual.com

Fit for purpose

RU B EN TA BA R ES AT TH E M A N DA R I N O R I EN TA L London’s Mandarin Oriental hotel has long been regarded as having one of the finest health and fitness offerings in the capital and, with the appointment of Ruben Tabares as its in-house trainer, it can now claim the top spot for five-star hotels. Ruben, a regular writer for Tempus, is the strength and conditioning coach for the likes of boxer David Haye, actor Jeremy Piven, top magician Dynamo and music artist Tinie Tempah among others. Kick-start your 2015 fitness goals by booking a session with this motivating wellbeing expert today. mandarinoriental.com

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TRENDS AND NEWS FROM THE BEST BARS AND KITCHENS M RESTAURANT

Reviewed by Jay Boisvert

Where shall we go for lunch? It’s probably my favourite question and, this month, I discovered a place that I plan to return to time and again. Sitting in the centre of London’s financial heartland is M, a newly opened dining room that offers two different eating experiences. On one side of its vast room you have M Raw, an Asian section serving sashimi, sushi and the like, while on the other sits the mighty M Grill – a meat section that is truly raising the steaks (sorry) when it comes to City dining.

We opted for the latter for our midweek lunch and, prior to eating, got to ‘meet the meat’, as hunks of beef from six different countries took centre stage in a glass ageing room, which is visible to almost every diner.

I kicked off the feast with the bacon and scallop dish, and what a starter it was. The scallops were super fresh, served raw with granulated bacon and, while the dish was not quite what I was expecting, it was a superb, interesting take on a traditional food

pairing. The main course was a little harder to choose as not only do you have a choice of numerous steak options, but there is also the tricksy question of toppings to consider. I chose the 28-day matured South African steak with a red wine jus, topped with malbec onions, and it was truly a melt in the mouth affair. It was my first experience of meat cooked on the current must-have kitchen kit that is the Josper Grill. Its high heat had left the outside beautifully charred, while the interior remained perfectly pink. A large glass of premium pinot noir, suggested by our knowledgeable waitress, saw me sink back, sated in gastro bliss.

Another staff member of note is restaurant director Francesco Cappucci and he was kind enough to show us everything that M had to offer, from its private dining areas and bar, as well as my favourite room of all – the keycard-protected secret den room, which has a private bar, sofas, a huge plasma screen, PlayStations and table football. There are also bottles of whisky that you can buy and then store in private lockers, to be enjoyed whenever you return to the den. Something I plan to do very soon… mrestaurants.co.uk

SUPER TUSCAN Frescobaldi, the Italian wine family responsible for some of the most memorable ‘super Tuscan’ wines of recent years, has opened a stunning new restaurant – Frescobaldi – in London’s Mayfair. As you’d expect, the wine list is one of the strongest in London and the food comprises Tuscan classics with a twist. Tempus dined there last month and can recommend the red prawn carpaccio and the veal cheek pappardelle. frescobaldirestaurants.com

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SALMONTINI This lunch got off to a splendid start. The reason? I found a parking space directly outside the restaurant which, staggeringly, was free on a Sunday. Anyone who lives in the capital will agree that the parking gods were truly smiling on me, particularly as this was a rainy day of Biblical proportions.

The dining room itself is the first London outpost of a small chain of restaurants that operate in the Middle East and boasts a former Michelin-starred chef at the helm.

The room is a tasteful affair, with a stylish mixture of textures and colours combining to

Reviewed by Scott Manson great effect.The tables were also generously proportioned, while the comfy chairs virtually demanded that you cancel all plans and plot up for the afternoon.

As you’d expect, salmon appears on the menu, though not excessively, but the really interesting aspect of the offering is that the menu combines European-style dishes with a full sushi and sashimi menu. It sounds like it shouldn’t work, but it really does.

We kicked off with the chef ’s sushi selection, a ‘greatest hits’ dish comprising perfect morsels of Asian-inspired loveliness, each grain of rice correctly cooked and served

at the right temperature, rather than fridge cold. For main courses the Alaskan black cod, complete with miso marinade, was a pearly chunk of piscine pleasure, while the tenderloin fillet, served with morels and dauphinoise potatoes, was a fitting tribute to the rare-breed beast it came from.

Dessert came in the form of a chocolate bombe, an ingenious item comprising a sphere of chocolate which, on being doused by warm chocolate sauce by the waiter, revealed an ice cream centre. A delightful surprise, then, much like Salmontini itself. salmontini.com

‘Tis the season to be wary

By Peter Dean Much is made of matching the right wine with the right festive food. For me, the difficulty is matching the right budget to the right occasion. On the one hand I want to spoil my nearest and dearest, on the other I don’t want to serve a £400 bottle of Rousseau pinot when a £10 bottle of Ned will do. My trick is to get two sets of wine prepared prior to the big seasonal meals and then play it by ear. If you end up receiving a reducedprice gift – a wooden nut bowl, for example – then it’s vin ordinaire all the way. But if it’s all going swimmingly and a handsome timepiece has come your way, then maybe the ‘big bad boys’ will get decanted. Here, then, are my tips for the top wines this year, and a lower-price alternative for each.

Champagne

My seasonal champagne this year is the newly-released Charles Heidsieck Brut Millesime 2005 (the drinkshop.com, £60.30). I am a big fan of Gosset, Pol Roger

and Taittinger but there is something so special about Heidsieck, and this vintage has it in spades – rich biscuit depth, superb texture and a sophisticated palate. If you want to get away with a tighter budget then try Jansz Premium Rose (oddbins. com, £16) which is a really decent, well made chardonnay/ pinot noir blend that punches well above its weight.

White

I like a great Bâtard-Montrachet, but when it comes to matching smoked salmon with chardonnay I always plump for a crisp Chablis, especially from a traditional producer using little or no wood. This year I am serving only 2005s and I will be uncorking some Raveneau Grand Cru Les Clos 2005 (idealwine. com. £330). These are really coming into their own now, with buttery secondary characters coming to the fore. The skinflint alternative would be a chardonnay from

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Limoux. Begude is a great, low cost, widely-available alternative, but try and seek out its AOC Limoux Chardonnay ‘Etoile’(stonevine.co.uk, £14.50 a bottle) as it’s worth paying the extra few pounds over the entry-level offering.

Red

Everyone plumps for pinot noir to match turkey as it’s the best fit for most fowl. The 2005 premier cru Burgundies are just at the beginning of their drinking window and, with a new case of Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes, Domaine Arlaud 2005 (laywheeler.com, £44.46 a bottle) delivered, this is what I’ll be serving. Again, an austerity alternative is the widely-available Villa Maria range. I have been impressed with them this year, particularly Villa Maria Reserve Pinot Noir Private Bin 2008 (chapelplacewines. co.uk, £17.99 a bottle), which is a delicious, good substitute for a more expensive Old World pinot.

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Do Asia’s artisanal producers represent the true meaning of Nicola Chilton luxury?

In April 2011, in the aftermath of the Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, I travelled to the north east of Japan with a group of friends to deliver aid to areas devastated by the twin disasters. Along with warm clothes, canned food, fresh vegetables, children’s toys, tea, rice and drinking water, we carried with us hundreds of boxes of what could have been considered an unnecessary luxury item – shirasu, boiled and dried baby anchovies. Our diverse little group included a pro-surfer, a flight attendant, a photographer, a ramen chef and Naohiro Kimura, a seventh-generation shirasumaker from the prefecture of Wakayama in western Japan.

As we arrived in the villages I soon understood why the Kimura family had wanted to be part of this mission. The devastated areas were coastal, with many of the victims being fisherman; oyster farmers and others who made their living from the sea.They had lived in these villages and fished these waters for centuries, growing seaweed and oysters for generations, and as the waves rolled in and then out to sea again their livelihoods had been wiped out.The Oshika peninsula, the eastern-most point of the region, was one of the hardest hit, with its once-busy harbours now tangled messes of anchors, buoys, ropes, stranded cars and smashed fishing boats. But aside from the damage to their property, the emotional damage ran even deeper, with countless members of the community losing their lives to the tsunami.

The significance of delivering this shirasu to the villages wasn’t about bringing them unnecessary treats at a time when they were struggling for basic necessities. Nor was it a PR stunt. It was a symbol of solidarity from a long-enduring family business, an offering of sympathy but also of encouragement

– a symbol of the ability of artisanal heritage to endure for centuries. And it was also an offer to work together to help get these villages on their feet again and to get their businesses back up and running.

The Kimura family established their company, Yamari, more than 200 years ago and produce their shirasu using artisanal techniques that have been unchanged for 160 years. The Kimuras’ boats set sail early to fish the shirasu out of the cool, clean waters off the coast of Wakayama. The fish are then brought ashore and immediately plunged into cold water so the flavour isn’t lost, after which they’re boiled with salt and dried in the sun.

Yamari is just one example of a number of small Asian companies that have shown that they can endure for generations because they do just one thing, and they do it well. They don’t try to diversify, and instead stick to perfecting what they know they’re good at, passing their techniques and skills from one generation to the next. Regardless of many of the stereotypes of the ‘Asian luxury consumer’, many of the more discerning consumers consider this heritage to be the true meaning of luxury. Luxury lies in the history and the craftsmanship rather than in a globally famous brand name, and in the dedication of the artisans to keep producing the best product they can.

There are countless examples of these producers in Asia, and a quick look around my own Bangkok home reveals that I too believe that this is where the origins of true luxury lie. Whether it’s my incense from Shoyeido, a brand established in 1705 that has been using recipes from the Kyoto imperial court for the past 300 years, or the Longjing Dragon Well tea I picked up at Four

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Nicola Chilton is Four Seasons’ senior director of public relations for the Asia Pacific region.

Seasons Hotel Hangzhou from a tea farmer whose family has been working the same tea fields for generations, it’s the stories and the heritage that draw me to them.

And what happened to those fishing communities in Tohoku? They have continued to fight against adversity and to rebuild their communities, an unimaginably tough task in the face of what they’ve been through. But at exactly the same time as I am typing these words, one of the fishermen from Oshika peninsula is today launching his new fishing boat to set out into the cold waters of northern Japan that have been fished by his father, his grandfather and his great-grandfather before him. The traditions and heritage endure, and hopefully will do so for generations to come.

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The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

A graduation watch My son graduated recently and is starting university this term. I haven’t told him yet but I want to get him a watch to mark the occasion. He currently owns a Casio and a Fossil. I am ashamed to have left him so horologically scarred. This summer he worked in an office and by the third week he had stopped wearing the watches to work to avoid looking childish. So I want to get him a watch that he can wear to future jobs and nights out in the city. For a new student I figure a good budget would be £2,000. What would you buy in this situation?

I’m going to suggest that you consider spending just a bit more and take a look at Tudor watches. For a young man starting university, you really could do much worse, though for all that I personally find them about as exciting as a colonoscopy.

They’re well made for the price and are currently enjoying a vogue right now among the young and horologically inclined, having come out somewhat from the shadow of Rolex.

Neither the Pelagos or the Black Bay would injure you financially much more than the budget you propose.

Incidentally, I don’t dis-esteem Casio; in its own way the G-Shock is a perfectly good watch (and enjoys the distinction of having been tested by its designer by being thrown out of a fourth floor bathroom window to evaluate its shock resistance). But of course they’re specialist tools, no more to be worn as a respectable everyday watch than woodsman’s

boots are meant to be worn with a decent suit (yes, we all know Gianni Agnelli did it, which is exactly why nobody else should try.)

The TAG Heuer revival

Link, so I’m not ready to pronounce TAG fully resurrected, but at least it is breathing again.

Should I choose Glycine?

You’ve expressed your opinions, good and bad, about different brands for quite a while now. But are there any brands that you’ve changed your mind about lately? It seems like TAG Heuer is always the butt of jokes with ‘real’ watch guys, but lately it has some interesting pieces.

I’d like to know your opinion regarding Glycine watches. How does this company stack up against other European watchmakers, such as NOMOS Glashütte? While I would admit that some of the models are quite large in diameter, I also see some interesting collections that are less ‘significant’ in stature.

While I will never withhold my opinions about lazy watch brands that hide behind marketing gimmicks, I also readily admit when a brand turns things around. You’re correct: TAG Heuer has put out some interesting watches lately. I’d even go so far as to say that TAG has become the overachiever of the big brands, and I suspect its R&D budget is finally approaching what it pays that actor from Titanic to put his baby face on billboards.

The V4, Mikrotimer, Mikrograph and this year’s awkwardly named Mikrogirder have shown that TAG is no longer content to sell quartz Links to middle managers. It is truly pushing the boundaries of what is possible in a chronograph, even if these are mainly conceptual pieces.

The dust-up over the Seiko-derived Caliber 1887 was handled well and is actually a fine movement, and TAG’s use of its design heritage in new watches like the Jack Heuer 80th-birthday piece is masterful. Of course, there is still some dead weight in the line-up – like the Formula 1, the Aquaracer and the

Glycine is not a watch brand that comes up in conversation often, and frankly a watch named after the genus of the soybean plant does not inspire confidence. To compare its watches to those of NOMOS is to do a grave disservice to the latter, which is a legitimate manufacturer, whereas Glycine is a relic of a formerly respectable company slapping a logo on ETA movement watches.

There is really only one Glycine worth a second look, and that of course is the Airman, and then only out of historical interest.This was the 24-hour watch that the company released in the 1950s and which became popular with — surprise! — pilots, as well as foot soldiers in the 1960s.

I’ve never really liked watches that display time on a 24-hour dial. I’m not on military time, I’m not living in some godforsaken place that has 24-hour darkness (or daylight), and I like to know the time at a glance without having to remember that I’m wearing a watch like the Airman, whose hour hand runs half as fast. But if you’re into that sort of thing, the Airman is a reasonable choice out of a thankfully small list of alternatives.

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T

he Excalibur collection – baroque, bold and beautiful – has long been a mainstay of the Roger Dubuis range, combining quality with originality, and formal aesthetics with useful functionality. In January, at the annual SIHH watchmakers gathering, the brand will unveil two skeleton-work Excalibur creations – an automatic model and a flying tourbillon piece – with their-star shaped design adding a striking 3D-feel to the watch face.

Intricate, artistic and beautifully finished, this is contemporary watchmaking at its best. rogerdubuis.com

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HATTERS SINCE 1898

73 JERMYN STREET LONDON

252 RUE DE RIVOLI PARIS

+44 (0) 207 930 2329

+33 (0) 214 260 3609

www.bates-hats.com

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wonder wool Keep the winter blues at bay and spruce up your wardrobe with on-trend and traditional knits John Smedley Jess McGuire-Dudley, creative manager, reveals the knitwear styles that women would love to see you dressed in “Making the right style choices can differ hugely between the sexes and, as a woman, I’m sure there are some historical misses my partner wishes I’d avoided. If I’m honest, though, he’s also made a few fashion errors, particularly when it comes to knitwear. The number of styles on offer are vast and varied, and yet still a number of men seem resigned to the classic V-neck for weekend wear and nothing more. To help, I’ve put together a list of the latest trends we women would love to see you in this season.

Geometric prints are a great way to pique a little knitwear interest and add colour to even the safest of wardrobes. A simple crew neck updated with print and pattern can easily make the difference between catching the eye or not. Go for a burgundy shade with pops of orange or try tone on tone midnight and teals with dark denim for a smart take on casual wear.

The roll neck is no longer the realm of the classic ‘Milk Tray man’ or 70s styling and can be a flattering piece that shows you have some serious style confidence. I’d suggest a palette of midnights and charcoals, and sizing up if choosing a fine knit to keep the fit flattering. Team with soft tailoring for an alternative work-wear look and you’re set for the season.

In terms of texture, women love a man in a chunky knit. Try a roll neck or classic crew for a fisherman twist and invest in luxury cashmeres for ‘strokeable’ style. Stripes – such as a classic Breton pattern – are also worth a look. Alternatively, go bolder with vibrant colours and broad stripes to make a big statement.” johnsmedley.com

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Hilditch & Key James McLean, merchandise director, on the right knitwear for the right occasion “As a Scot, my love for knitwear started from birth when it is traditional for family members to provide hand-knitted, intricately designed sweaters for the newborn. My passion for beautifully crafted sweaters has continued throughout my life and now forms part of my daily life, through both work and leisure.

Like the landscape of its origins, knitwear made of Shetland wool offers a rugged, hardwearing garment which is favoured for its muted, earthy colours and traditional designs, giving an entry-level price point to the sporty, fashion-conscious wearer.

For the person who wants affordability, texture and a look synonymous with cashmere, Geelong lamb’s wool is the fibre of choice. This volume fibre produces a beautiful garment that can be created with cables and twists at a price that allows wearability for country and outdoor pursuits.

Merino wool offers a sophisticated handle and, when knitted, this worsted spun yarn produces a flatter finished garment, suitable to wear to the office under suits or to complete a different look for evenings and weekends.

Merino was the favoured choice of both Mary Quant and Jean Muir for their exclusive designs.

The ultimate in luxury comes from cashmere.

Due to its rarity and handle, it is the ‘hair’ favoured by world-leading brands to showcase their knitwear collections. Once the wearer has experienced the handle and sumptuousness of cashmere, any other fibre will be second choice. The diversity of a cashmere pullover takes you from smart to casual or vice versa in one easy step. It’s the prime season for quality knitwear, so seek out what’s right for you now.” hilditchandkey.co.uk

Angelo Galasso Founder Angelo Galasso on investing in quality knitwear “Perhaps more than ever before, every man craves to feel different and wishes to express his individuality in unique ways. When winter arrives, it becomes harder for individuals to appear unique, since the cold forces us to wear warmer, and often less unique, clothing. Thus, what the modern man has to rely on in order to feel out of the ordinary is knitwear – indeed, it’s often the cornerstone of many winter outfits.

However, it’s important for the man who wants to stand out from crowd to add a twist to the anonymous, classic winter knit.

The quality of fabric and yarn plays a pivotal role in transforming the individual into someone inimitable and unique. Investing in quality knitwear leads the modern man to feel fascinated by what he is wearing, with the workmanship providing the product with inimitable details, making each piece personal.

High quality knitwear will last for years, sometimes even generations, with the best items having a timeless appeal and a hardwearing nature. This is thanks to the use of modern and advanced sewing techniques, giving the piece longevity.

Haute couture male fashion brands such as ours, which believe in the ‘tradition in evolution’ concept, use featherweight cashmere to produce its knitwear, adding innovative details, such as soft leather trimmings in python and crocodile skin. Of course, all come with the reassuring guarantee that they were made in Italy.

Therefore, investing in quality knitwear will help the modern man to feel exceptional, wearing a piece that has been produced by artisans, with care in the material and attention to detail, allowing him to showcase these traditions to both current and future generations.” angelogalasso.com

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best of british Peter Wilson Mbe, olympic Gold Medallist London 2012, with a holland & holland ‘sporting’ over-and-Under shotgun.

A gun made entirely in our London factory.

shop online now at www.hollandandholland.com

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Words - Alex Doak

Shine on Raymond Graff takes Tempus behind the scenes at the family firm’s Mayfair HQ, where some of the world’s most fabulous diamond showstoppers take shape

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W

hen the front door of 28 Albermarle Street closes with a hefty clunk, instantly blocking out the buzz of Mayfair behind, you find yourself stood awkwardly in a sealed chamber next to a towering security guard, and a palpable sense of ‘Bond villain lair’ quickly encroaches. Once ushered through the next bulletproof door into the labyrinthine bowels of Graff ’s starkly lit workshops, it’s hard not to start humming the early refrains of Shirley Bassey’s Diamonds are Forever.

For it is here that, conceivably, the world’s most spectacular diamond jewellery comes into being at the hands of some 75 master craftsmen. The original craftsman, Laurence Graff OBE, may get all the accolades and ‘selfmade billionaire, Gstaad-dwelling art collector’ headlines, but the reclusive chairman’s evenmore-reclusive brother Raymond is in charge here. The earthier half of the sibling duo (he collects Chinese snuff bottles rather than Warhols), Raymond is here to show Tempus around personally in his capacity as head of production.

If that sounds like his brother has relegated Graff Minor to the role of foreman, it couldn’t be further from the truth. He started in his teens on the same bench as Graff Major – round the corner from the Tempus HQ on Hatton Garden – and brings to bear an expert’s knowledge of the craft itself while steering every design process, overseeing development and ensuring timely manufacture. All the way through to delivery on the wrists, fingers, ears and décolletages of the world’s wealthiest and most discerning women via some 30 global boutiques.

Brothers Graff were responsible for establishing the first-ever retail presence in Hatton Garden, back in 1962. But with the advent of Harold Wilson’s recession in the mid-60s, it was Laurence’s fateful decision to travel the world, trusty suitcase in tow, that got the business truly airborne, figuratively as well as literally. He will admit that his big break came from a single sale, when the Crown Prince and Princess of Brunei walked into Singapore’s Robinson & Co department store and bought the entire suitcase, forging their lifelong relationship. From then onwards, thanks to that early endorsement, no one could ignore the sheer quality of the stones that Graff sourced (see page 63), nor the quality of the designs and settings that Raymond was ensuring back at base.

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The first thing he shows us at Graff ’s state-ofthe-art Albemarle Street facility is a typically spectacular necklace, ‘pre-set’ on wax to gauge its progress against the hand-drawn design from upstairs. It certainly isn’t every workshop that has a multi-million-pound prospect lying around…

“We get stones from our own sites in South Africa,” Raymond says, referring to their controlling stake in the South African Diamond Corporation (SAFDICO), “but we do also have to buy from the market.

“The reject rate is 45 to 50 per cent though, as so many stones just aren’t up to our standard.”

Despite such high standards, Graff still manages to have 400 to 600 pieces in production at any one time, explaining the sheer number of mostly young men sat at row upon row of surprisingly pristine workbenches (“I’m very obsessed about tidiness – a tidy atmosphere makes tidy work”).

Peering over their shoulders, it’s a constant surprise to see such complexity in the articulated settings, all of which are made from raw platinum or gold, or the sheer size and quality of the stones being handled so matter-of-factly. An especially delightful find is a twentysomething wearing Beats headphones, crafting a fully iced, hidden-dial cocktail watch, the dial hidden by a vast, hinged emerald. What’s at stake here doesn’t bear thinking about.

“This is a lively, buzzy workshop,” Raymond says proudly, as we walk through. “We’re not a laid-back company, we do things quickly. We’ve got to get things out and into the shops.”

As if to underline his point, the next room reveals a brand new acquisition for Graff being installed as we enter: a 3D resin printer. Not only will this allow rapid prototyping, but the surprisingly intricate print-outs themselves can be used as moulds for precious metal by the ‘lost-wax’ process.

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Designed by Fiona. Crafted by artisans. Made for you.

Available exclusively from

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But despite his workforce’s seeming flexibility and sheer pace of work, special requests are seldom entertained by Raymond and his brother: “We never work with a buyer in mind – our job is to provoke temptation by creating our jewellery; that temptation our customers never knew they had. We’ve found that with bespoke work you tend to lose the brand’s focus.”

So what does he think defines Graff ’s brand in the first place?

“Quality of stones,” Raymond says, without hesitation, “and our special pieces. We’re just a little bit different as well – it’s hard to make classical jewellery with distinction.

“But we must never believe we’re the best,” he adds, “because once you do that you’re on your way down. If you love what you do, then you will become successful at it.”

What’s undoubtedly key to Graff ’s success is the fact it remains a family concern. With Laurence taking more of a back seat in his 70s, it now falls to his son Francois to take the mantle as CEO. As suave and charming as ever, he also balances this with his father and uncle’s astute business acumen, and a singular vision for the brand.

“Regardless of our titles, we Graffs tend to be very hands-on,” Francois says, later on. “We are involved in every part of the business. I think you have to be when you have a family company

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because that’s what makes the difference, what gives it our personality. “ We operate alongside the megaconglomerates of the luxury world, but we’re more nimble. We’ve staged important board meetings in corridors when necessary.”

It’s this nimbleness that doubtless greenlighted the Hallucination watch earlier this year – at $55 million the world’s most expensive thanks to some 110 carats of crazy-paved gems.

It was a fitting halo piece to hail Graff ’s debut year at Baselworld, arriving on Dior’s old patch with one of the most beautifully designed pavilions of the entire fair.

Graff has been making ‘proper’ high-end mechanical timepieces since 2008 alongside Swiss partners such as Technotime, Concepto and Manufacture Hautes Complication (MHC) and it was about time its tourbillons and minute repeaters shared the same limelight as the jewellery. But it was the Hallucination out front that really had tongues wagging.

Among the journalists, most of that wagging had something to do with a conspicuous lack of a sale. But how wrong we all were…

“We actually have three people waiting to buy the Hallucination,” Raymond reveals, with a glint in his eye. “But we’re not selling it yet.

“It’s like showing sweets to a baby, but not actually giving them. We’re in the business of creating a child-like, feverish desire for our pieces.”

With stones like these, and workshops like this, they can’t fail.

An Extrao rd in ar y D esi gn Sc u lp tu re?

A h i gh te ch h u mi dor co nst r u c te d as a g la ss t rĂŠsor.

Hygi eni c like an o pe rat i ng ro om .

Revo lu ti on ar y in tech no log y a nd d esi gn .

Crea ted for many d ec ades .

The first impression is intense.

Massive float glass gives the Reposo transparency to which the brushed stainless steel stands in an elegant contrast.

Solid cedrela reflects the lights of many staging spots.

Inside the finest scent of untreated cedrela wood.

Protecting rare cigars for decades.

The perfect grain carefully selected out of one single block of wood.

Stored for a couple of years before incorporated in a Reposo.

So every Reposo shows it‘s unique personality.

Equipped with the most advanced technologies like the electronically generated cold moistened fresh air.

The programmable logic controller system provides a permanent auto steering of the system and all electronic probes.

A constantly sterilisation of air and water is providing a maximum of protection.

I n a Re p oso , ti me wo rk s to yo ur a dvan ta ge.

Cr e ate you r own v in ta ge ciga rs.

Hi gh En d Hu m id or s - Ha n dc raf ted in G e r m a ny ww w. re p oso . d e

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A star is born

Graff has acquired some phenomenal diamonds over the years, but nothing comes close to the Letseng Star

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In keeping with Graff ’s reputation for sourcing the world’s most spectacular gems, its South African concern SAFDICO acquired from the Letseng mine in 2011 the 14th-largest white rough diamond ever discovered – a staggering 550 carats of D colour and type IIA, the purest chemically of all diamonds, and the rarest. At the time, Mining Journal reported the Letseng Star selling to an ‘undisclosed third party’ for $16.5 million.

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To ensure the rough diamond realised its full potential, Graff ’s gemologists used computer, scanning techniques to locate impurities within its structure and elucidate the positioning of various stone shapes within these ‘windows’ to allow maximum yield. The rough was then cut using lasers and polished by hand, the entire process taking 13 months to complete.

The result was 27 pear-shaped diamonds, all D-colour and flawless or internally flawless, totalling 168.73 carats – including 12 matching pairs of pear-shaped diamonds, as well as one round brilliant diamond of 1.03 carats… all from a single stone.

INTRODUCING M

M houses two restaurants, a destination cocktail bar, a wine tasting room, a secret den and four private dining and events spaces

BOOK NOW AT MRESTAURANTS.CO.UK 020 3327 7770 | enquiries@mrestaurants.co.uk | M, 2 & 3 Threadneedle Walk, 60 Threadneedle Street, London, EC2R 8HP

Restaurants of the year With the feelgood factor back in the economy, London’s restaurants and bars have enjoyed a bumper year. We highlight six of the best visited by the Tempus team in 2014

Bo Lang

Move over Hakkasan, there’s a new game in town. Chelsea newcomer Bo Lang is challenging the famous Michelin-starred eatery with its selection, which while a smaller offering than Hakkasan, is technically precise and well thought out. Its décor, too, definitely borrows a design cue or two, with dark wood dividers, stylish velvet chairs and, despite its small size, a good feel of table privacy. It’s perfectly judged for the fashion crowd that inhabit this corner of west London, with a menu that combines classics with more contemporary offerings. The former included a fabulous version of turnip cake – the Chinese New Year favourite – which was a pan-fried, pork-flecked taste sensation. Prawn har gau was similarly old school, but given a contemporary twist with the addition of a blackberry reduction, while a heftier main course of roast duck, unusually served with samphire, provided a salty, meaty kick. Little wonder that the ladies who lunch love this new launch. bolangrestaurant.co.uk

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House of St Barnabas

When it comes to a London location, it doesn’t get much better than 1 Greek Street. This member’s restaurant and bar sits on the corner of Soho Square, perfectly placed for the film and media types who make up much of its clientele, and within striking distance of the myriad pubs and bars of Soho and Fitzrovia.

The venue itself is a smasher. A grade one listed building featuring some of the finest Rococo plasterwork in the capital. From the moment you enter the imposing front door, there’s a palpable sense of history about the place. A beautiful door hostess and some funky artwork aside, it’s easy to imagine yourself in Victorian times. Although this is now a hot spot for hip media gunslingers, its primary function is still as a not-for-profit charity with proceeds from membership fees going towards supporting homeless people through a variety of courses and work opportunities.

The classic Tuscan soup that is ribollita proved the perfect hearty winter warmer, its brothy vegetable base embracing the heart and soul of peasant cooking. A starter of chargrilled squid also hit the mark, with punchy ginger and chillies spiking its firm flesh. The main courses were similarly strong – from the fennel-rubbed porchetta served with puy lentils and cavolo nero to a generous plate of pappardelle, spinach, walnuts and aged pecorino – they showcased the skills of a cook staying true to his ingredients, rather than indulging in showoff cheffery.

If you’re looking to join a member’s club that makes a difference, this Soho gem is the place for you. hosb.org.uk

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Hutong

Situated in The Shard, this is the London outpost of a well-regarded restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong, serving a brilliant take on the spicy food of northern China. The absolute must-try is the roasted Peking duck, served traditionally in two stages. The first involves some theatrical table-side carving by a whites-clad chef wielding a seriously sharp cleaver. With each stroke he offers up shards of beautifully crisp skin and meat, served with gossamer thin pancakes. The remainder of the duck comes later in the meal, served in an umami-rich vegetable mix and wrapped in lettuce leaves.

Further highlights included de-boned and deep-fried lambs ribs, some gorgeously glutinous black sesame dumplings and a host of impressive dim sum offerings, including baked pork puffs with Chankiang (black rice) vinegar and crystal crab meat dumplings.

Curious visitors might go for the view, but will return time and again for the food. hutong.co.uk

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The Greenhouse

Tucked away down a quiet Mayfair side street sits this venerable London dining institution, a two Michelin-starred joint untroubled by fast-moving fads and trends, concentrating instead on technical brilliance under the watchful eyes of head chef Arnaud Bignon. I’ve previously enjoyed his cooking when he was in charge of Athens’ celebrated Spondi restaurant, and on the strength of this visit he seems to be settling perfectly into his new home in the capital.

The meal was a winner from the off, with a tiny tomato meringue amuse-bouche providing a flavour-packed hit of essence of tomato.

We also enjoyed a tiny log of foie gras, served with sweet muesli and fig confit, and Cornish crab accompanied by an intriguing cauliflower cream, mint jelly and apple. Special mention must also go to the bread selection, which was sublime. Mains comprised a chunk of pearly turbot served with baby artichokes, cockles, kaffir lime and pak choi cress, plus a beautiful piece of Dorset lamb carved into a cute rectangle shape and served pink.

While many would see this restaurant as a place for a special occasion, we’d argue that with its impressive set lunch option, and a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere, this beautiful dining room demands repeat visits. greenhouserestaurant.co.uk

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Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

A protégé of seminal French chef Alain Ducasse, and head chef at her eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, Hélène Darroze has become arguably the most celebrated female chef in London, following her appointment at the helm of this venerable dining room in 2008. Her nine-course tasting menu starts with a neat touch – a solitaire-style board filled with marbles denoting different types of food, the concept being you relegate any you don’t like to the side of the board. Ever the adventurous eater, all my marbles remained in place, ushering in a selection of seriously great dishes which kicked off some beautiful foie gras served with Williams pear, ginger and wild sorrel.

A firm, pearly piece of hake followed, its skin crisped nicely and surrounded by clams and calamari while my partner enjoyed white asparagus, lobster and seaweed. This was a modern, luxurious spin on the cooking and ingredients of Darroze’s native south-west France, all complemented by the attention to detail – Bayonne ham sliced tableside by a hand-cranked machine, delicate crockery and glasses that are changed with every course – that’s the hallmark of this level of hospitality. the-connaught.co.uk

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Berners Tavern

London has a number of breathtaking dining rooms, from the Wolseley to Aqua Shard to Claridges, but Berners Tavern arguably knocks them all into touch. From the towering triple-height walls, every inch of them covered in fabulously quirky art, to the twinkling gold bar, enormous chandeliers, intricate plasterwork and, crucially, the sort of buzz that only comes from a group of people having a fantastic time in a restaurant that, given the demand for tables, is truly hot right now.

Our table is one of the beautiful leather banquettes that run down the centre of this opulent room which is reached, incidentally, by a similarly impressive lobby. The Edition Hotel, of which it is part, might be owned by Marriott, but the balls-out design courtesy of boutique hotel guru Ian Schrager is anything but corporate. As the man who launched New York’s infamous Studio 54 nightclub, it’s unsurprising that he knows a thing or two about making customers feel like rock stars.

The menu itself has been devised by Jason Atherton, although the cooking is overseen

by Phil Carmichael. Atherton’s style, though, is apparent in virtually every dish, from the cute ‘egg, ham and peas’ – a delicious pea and broad bean risotto, served with a crispy quail egg and lardons – to the excellently named Cereal Killer cocktail, which comes in an oldschool pop bottle with a striped straw. We also tried a chargrilled Dingley Dell pork chop, its sweet fattiness cut through with sharp apple, chicory salad and pickled kohlrabi. The rib-eye steak ordered by my dining partner, cooked on a Josper grill of course, may have been a safe choice but that didn’t stop me enjoying the beautifully aged beef served with chunky triple-cooked chips.

The dessert menu was eschewed in favour of another of those Cereal Killer cocktails.

Made with the milk from Coco Pops, it proved a fittingly unorthodox end to a faultless, memorable meal. bernerstavern.com

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I “ finally found all of the privacy and relaxation I had been craving for months on an island as beautiful as it is welcoming.�

www.baros.com

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bring me

sunshine Got a case of the winter blues? It could be time to pack that suitcase and head off for some winter warmth at these spellbinding hot spots

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Mauritius

Images: LUX Resorts & Hotels

LUX* Le Morne has partnered with Chelseabased fitness gurus SP&Co to launch a series of Wellness Adventure Retreats. The fiveday programme combines yoga, nutrition, spa treatments and the opportunity to explore wild Mauritius. The retreat includes activities such as climbing the Le Morne Brabant and trail walks at Black River Gorges. The treatment will be available from 15-21 January 2015.

It’s just one of many fabulous tailor-made experiences at this new breed of luxury resorts. luxresorts.com

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Maldives

Baros Maldives is a small coral island in the Indian Ocean, just 25 minutes by speedboat from Maldives International Airport. Set in a translucent lagoon surrounded by a sundrenched, golden sand beach and ringed with a colourful living coral reef, it’s the perfect place for recharging your batteries.

The Water Villas have individual sun decks and stunning views of the sea, with steps down to the lagoon for leisurely swimming.

Elsewhere, the spa features revitalising treatments and exclusive yoga sessions, while a resident marine biologist and PADI dive centre educates guests as they explore the reefs. A luxury yacht and traditional sailing dhoni are available to venture further through dolphin-filled waters to other islands on day excursions or sunset cruises. A wonderful place you won’t want to leave. baros.com

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Morocco

Perched on a hill overlooking the 12th-century medina of the city of Fez sits this atmospheric, architectural gem of a hotel. Interior designer Jean-Baptiste Barian has created a symphony of arches, columns, carved wood, plaster, brass, stucco and marble floors, complemented by a restaurant delivering the best in Fassi gastronomy. Book the Suite Royale to enjoy a unique, refined experience, with its 160sq m space (and a 30sq m terrace) filled with wonderful antiques and locally sourced materials. Needless to say, the terrace is the perfect place to catch the afternoon sun. palaisfaraj.com

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A NEW STAR IS BORN IN THE MEDIEVAL CITY OF FEZ Palace from the nineteenth century converted into a luxury boutique hotel by the best architects and craftsmen of the country. Palais Faraj Suites & Spa takes boutique luxury to the next level at the doorstep of Fez’s Medina, where unparalleled comfort meets exquisite artistic flair and rich Moroccan tradition.

BABZIAT - Fez Medina - Morocco

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Tel: +212 535 63 53 56

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Email: info@palaisfaraj.com

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Website www.PalaisFaraj.com

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Mozambique

Award-winning Vamizi Island – Mozambique’s most celebrated luxury private island resort – is situated in the beautiful Quirimbas Archipelago and has relaunched its expanding Private Villa Collection, offering the last word in castaway chic. The island is a sanctuary; small, intimate and offering the definitive barefoot luxury of your own private island. Just 12km long and 2km wide, the island is fringed by gently-shelving beaches and calm waters, and is a haven for adults and children alike. Stroll inland to see nesting green turtles, giant coconut crabs and rare samango monkeys, as well as colourful exotic birds. Or head to sea where you’ll find one of the top ten dive sites in the world, as well as world-class big-game fishing (wahoo, dogtooth and yellowfin tuna, giant trevally), estuary kayaking, and catamaran or dinghy sailing.

Private villa prices start from £17,743, based on eight adults and four children sharing a villa for seven nights. vamizi.com

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Seychelles

Imagine your picture-perfect palm-fringed retreat and Desroches Island is probably it. An ideal retreat for romantic winter sun getaways, it offers secluded luxury – there are only 30 guest residences on the island – plus a beautiful spa and world-class international and Creole dining. Little wonder it was voted one of the top 10 remote destinations in the world by Forbes magazine. desroches-island.com

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South Africa

If you’re looking to head to sunnier climes, but the idea of lolling about on a beach isn’t for you, then a safari could be the answer.The world-renowned Shamwari Group has proudly pioneered wildlife safaris, conservation and hospitality for over 20 years, with three diverse properties in South Africa: Shamwari Game Reserve, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve and Jock Safari Lodge.

Ideal for families, Shamwari Game Reserve – pride of the Eastern Cape near Port Elizabeth – is one of the region’s largest malaria-free ‘Big 5’ private game reserves offering five distinctive lodges, one villa, the Shamwari Explorer Camp, plus a walking safari with tented accommodation and photographic safaris. The Animal Rehabilitation Centre, Born Free Foundation and the Ian Player Rhino Awareness Centre are three unique experiences on offer.

Regarded as the Western Cape’s premier wildlife destination, the malaria-free Sanbona Wildlife Reserve near Cape Town offers a ‘Big 5’ wilderness experience and a unique boat safari. Legendary experiences in the Kruger National Park can also be found at Jock Safari Lodge and the Jock Explorer Camp, which offers a ‘bygone era’ safari. There are also unique Kids on Safari programmes for budding conservationists. shamwarigroup.com

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Thailand

The ‘land of smiles’ has long been a favoured destination of those seeking some winter R&R, and the beautiful island of Koh Samui offers some of the best beaches and hotels in the country. Among the gems is the Four Seasons resort which, if you’re looking to get a true taste of Thai culture, has the best location of a Thai boxing ring we’ve ever seen. Perched high on a hillside overlooking the azure seas, it’s the perfect place to train with an in-house pro and learn more about the national sport of Thailand. The tough training will also make you feel much better about sinking those postworkout sundowners too… fourseasons.com

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www.desroches-island.com

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UAE

The lavish marine-themed resort of Atlantis is the most talked-about hotel in Dubai, and with good reason. For a family holiday it’s hard to beat – wander through the passageways and tunnels of The Lost Chambers Aquarium, marvel at over 65,000 marine animals at the Ambassador Lagoon or splash about on thrill rides galore at Aquaventure Waterpark. It also offers the first Nobu restaurant in the Middle East – one of 22 dining rooms in the resort – an adult-only nightclub, spa, tennis courts and much more. The two-bedroom regal suites, with their views of the Arabian Sea, or the Palm and Dubai skyline, are highly recommended. atlantisthepalm.com

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Sumptuous leather has all kinds of uses, from bags and jackets to shoes and wallets.

Tempus takes a look at some of the market’s must-have leather goods

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Tumi Mission Collection

Since 1975, Tumi has been creating worldclass business and travel essentials with this, its Mission Collection, being a case in point.

Named after San Francisco’s famous Mission District, this leather collection is engineered and designed in America. Each silhouette is made from natural grain leather that is highlighted by textural details reminiscent of Tumi’s signature ballistic nylon. Design elements include beltinginspired adjustable handle straps, embossed linings and a sophisticated colour palette. The slim leather brief features numerous interior pockets for business and digital accessories, while the roomy leather backpack makes a great city or travel bag. tumi.com

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Loewe

The first Loewe men’s collection – the spring-summer 2015 collection – was unveiled this summer.

It encompasses a broad range of items – including essential ready-to-wear, bags, wallets, shoes and scarves. The brand’s fashion-forward jackets are particularly worthy of your attention, with the minimalist, ultra light biker jacket and crinkled leather trench coat revisited to maximise their aesthetic and functional qualities: softness, cut and performance. loewe.com

Gaziano & Girling

True masters of the craft, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling have been making high-end shoes in England for more than 20 years and recently set up a flagship store on Savile Row. Their design principles see them create shoes that are contemporary but not overstylised and, unlike shoes you have to break in, these are products which are genuinely ready to wear. Only the best Swiss and French calf leather is used, with the shoes handmade at the brand’s factory in the shoemaking heartland of Northants.

True oak bark leather soles complete these masterpieces. gazianogirling.com

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Ettinger

Founded by film producer Gerry Ettinger in 1934, Ettinger grew to become one of the world’s leading manufacturers of quality leather goods. Today, from its home in leafy Putney in London, the Ettinger brand is renowned for producing fine bags, wallets, purses and accessories. Little wonder, then, that it received a prestigious Royal Warrant in 1996, allowing Ettinger the right to carry the Prince of Wales Cipher of three feathers on all its products. We particularly like the pieces crafted from traditional English bridle leather, which develop a warm, rich patina over time. ettinger.co.uk

Bulang & Sons

A fine watch deserves a fine strap and there are few finer accessories for your timepiece than the beautiful straps produced by up-andcoming brand Bulang & Sons. Hand-made and vegetable-tanned in Italy using centuries-old techniques that make each strap as unique as the treasured timepiece with which you will marry it, each piece is slowly softened in oils to develop individual character. Craftsmen then work on each strap to make the finished product. The entire pattern-cutting, hole-punching and stitching is done by hand and the leather worked on to make a one of a kind finished strap – perfect for your vintage Rolex Submariner, GMT, Seadweller, Daydate, Datejust or Omega Speedmaster. The brand also offers a wide range of other watch essentials and handmade leather goods. bulangandsons.com

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THE STERLING COLLECTION

ETTINGER.CO.UK

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Words – Scott Manson

High flyer Frustrated by frequent attempts to charter jets to his home on Majorca, entrepreneur Clive Jackson set up his own company to fill a gap in the market

A

s any marketeer or advertising expert will tell you, disruption is often a key part of any campaign strategy. It’s a word that could have been coined for Victor, the on-demand private jet business that has shaken up the aviation industry since it launched in 2011.

Founded by entrepreneur Clive Jackson, the idea for the business was born when Clive found it difficult to charter private jets to reach his home in Majorca. He went on to set up flyingmajorca.com to try to co-ordinate with other jet charterers on the island. By the end of 2010 the business had taken off – with new destinations added – and a name change was necessary. Thus, with a start-up investment of £1.1m, Victor was born.

The company has since received further rounds of investment and hired some bighitters from the aviation industry. Its business model is one of total transparency when it comes to flight costs, letting users see who is supplying planes for certain destinations, how many options there are to those destinations and the pricing options. Crucially, Victor takes a flat commission of no more than 5% over the cost of the jet charter, rising to 10% if the client wants a full concierge service.

We caught up with Clive to find out a little more about his innovative business and his plans to take Victor to the next level.

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The private aviation market has seen something of a shake-up in the past few years. Victor has obviously played its part in this with its innovative business model but to what do you attribute this industry-wide disruption?

In this market you have operators, brokers and owners. Operators need to satisfy their owners and are looking to lessen their dependency on brokers. At the moment, 80% of all transactions are originated by brokers. As the middlemen, they take the lion’s share of the profit for the least risk. They are also under no obligation to disclose what they are being paid.

We differ by offering transparency in the quotation and buying process. This, combined with a super smart service, builds trust with our customers, ensuring we get repeat business. I’m proud to say that we have an 86% customer retention rate after a customer’s first booking.

They tell me that they don’t see any point in making half a dozen calls to get a price for a jet when they trust us to find them the best price on the market. cj

There are hundreds of companies offering private jet services – it appears to be a very unregulated market. Is it very much ‘buyer beware’ for those looking to charter a plane?

There are good and bad operators but yes, it is an unregulated market. We need total disclosure, and buyers need to know who they are contracting with so they can decide if theirs is an aircraft they want to fly on. The US is strong on this sort of information, but we need greater openness in the European market. With our model, we tell clients who they are working with, the age of the aircraft, the air safety certificate and so on. If an operator is not up to scratch then they are struck off our list. This is the main driver of our success. cj

It’s been well documented that you first came up with the idea of launching a private aviation service after frustrating flying experiences from Majorca. What have you done since then in terms of new resources, staff and software to keep Victor ahead of the game?

We’ve had a succession of fundraisers that were, happily, oversubscribed. In the 39 months since we launched our four staff have grown to 49, a high percentage of whom are software engineers. The reason is that we have a new comparison and travel management app about to launch – an award-winning product, I suspect – and it will prove very popular with our customers.

Other operators are keen to push their robust safety policy and standards as a USP, claiming it achieves the same safety levels as commercial operators, such as BA. Is this something that Victor feels is an important part of its offering?

Absolutely. Safety is paramount and we take our responsibilities very seriously, conducting independent audits of all operators. cj

Is there a typical Victor client? How would you describe them?

They are very successful owners and entrepreneurs – people at the top of their game. It’s service, value and trust, rather than price, that determines how they make their buying decisions. They demand flexibility and exceptional customer service. cj

Which markets are proving particularly popular at the moment?

We’re picking up traction in the US, point to point and coast to coast. It’s five times the size of Europe so there are great opportunities for expansion. cj

cj

For those readers who don’t use private jets regularly, why would you recommend they make it part of their business plan?

If you haven’t tried private flying, then you just won’t get it. When you do, it’s hard to go back to commercial. It’s the ability to control your schedule – even with constant tinkering – that really helps. You can also carry on your day-today business without interruption, thinking and creating while on board. cj

Having achieved so much already, what’s the next step for Victor?

We’re slightly ahead of our plan. I’ve set aggressive expectations and now it’s time to move to phase four and the milestone of 50,000 high net worth customers who fly with us regularly.

We are looking to offer a unified proposition internationally. Our track record to date makes this an appealing proposition to anyone looking to fly privately. flyvictor.com cj

On my watch Clive Jackson reveals his favourite timepieces

What are the routes you personally fly most often, and why?

Like anyone with an eye on the bottom line I don’t fly private when commercial will do for me! I have investors to think of, after all. The only private jet route I fly regularly is to Palma, two or three times a year. cj

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I have a bit of a watch collection, it’s true. In terms of new pieces, I have a limited edition rose gold version of the Jaeger Le-Coultre Navy SEAL Master Compressor. It’s a weighty beast of a watch. Regarding vintage pieces, my watch safe includes a Breitling Navitimer 806, from 1961, which includes the original plexiglass. I also have a 1962 Bulova Accutron, given to me by my father. It uses a tuning fork as a time standard, instead of the traditional balance wheel and hairspring, and was the world’s first electronic watch.

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Last-minute gifts If your imagination runs further than socks for him and choccies for her, check out our gift guide for Christmas presents that will put a smile on the face of the recipient

Below Zero Ice Driving This company offers the ultimate ice driving experience for all abilities, from the fun-seeking novice to the seasoned competition professional. Imagine driving a rally-winning 300bhp Porsche 911 on a meticulously prepared lake circuit lined by cushioned snow banks. Fully studded tyres and world-class instruction make its ice-driving days the perfect gift, and a unique experience you will never forget. belowzeroicedriving.com

Meridian Audio The Meridian Explorer 2 is a new flagship, highresolution USB DAC that delivers Meridian-quality sound from any computer for headphone or hi-fi listening. Built by hand in the UK, it’s the perfect gift for those who appreciate high-end audio technology.

It includes a USB DAC and headphone amplifier. meridian-audio.com

Junghans Dynamic and elegant, the Meister Chronoscope owes its unique lustre to the slate-grey dial, with the added refinement of a sunray cut. When light falls on its polished surface, a vibrant play of reflections ensues.

In keeping with the range, the small second hand and the chronograph counters are set on a bowl-shaped frame to give the watch its classical appearance. junghans.de

Murdock London Encapsulating the stylish gentlemen’s grooming heritage of St James’s, the home of Murdock London’s pop-up shop this Christmas, the St James’s Collection gift set contains the oakmoss scented Napier 1933 Cologne, shave soap in an elegant wooden bowl and badger-hair shaving brush. The set is exclusively sold at its Piccadilly pop-up shop and online. murdocklondon.com

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Reposo Arguably the world’s finest humidor, the high-end Cigar Trésor is crafted from solid cedrela wood, which reflects the lights of many staging spots, while the thick ‘floating’ glass that gives the Reposo a transparency that contrasts brilliantly with the accents of cool stainless steel stands in elegant contrast. Designed for decades of use, this Germandesigned cabinet is a true masterpiece. reposo.de

Scent City From the Mr Classic collection at Scent City comes Chic Shaik no70 by Designer Shaik.

Luxurious, romantic and vibrantly blended for individuality, character and style. Like its wearer, it’s subtle and never overwhelming – yet exudes a sense of power and masculinity. thescentcity.com

Borgioni The Borgioni Handcuff is the brand’s signature piece.

With a classic, yet modern twist, this piece has always remained a staple in its collection. The unique patent pending pressure hinge makes for a solid everyday bangle that easily translates from morning to evening. borgionis.com

De Lamerie Maker of some of the world’s finest china, crystal and silver, this is tableware in the grandest tradition, with plenty of handraised gold and hand-painted decoration fit for kings, sheikhs and emperors. De Lamerie also designs exclusive table settings with an individual crest or colours to suit the owner’s dining room. delamerie.com

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Fenttiman London These artisan candles use only the world’s most luxurious scents, all packaged in a signature purple box adorned with white ribbon and emblazoned with the brand’s coat of arms. We recommend their Myrrh, Jasmine and Sandalwood handcrafted candles to create the perfect Christmas atmosphere. fenttiman.co.uk

Scent City From the Ms Classic collection at Scent City, we recommend Chic Shaik no30 by Designer Shaik. Captivating and delightful, blending luxury and edginess with a light, optimistic note that is as individual as its wearer. thescentcity.com

Tuum Taking inspiration from their native Umbria, Italian designers Michele Alberti and Simone Finocchi have created a beautiful unisex collection of rings, bracelets and necklaces.

Our top choice are the Latin-inscribed rings with the text written in a relief aesthetic, using an elaborate casting technique. tuum.it

Sirenes Fine Art Sirenes, a sublime Norwegian artist known for her use of colour, presents her artwork ‘Thank you all’. Her vibrant yet gentle mastery of chromatic dynamics has been compared to the music of Ravel, with a finesse that calls to mind the 19th-century British painter JMW Turner. The perfect gift for someone who appreciates striking art. sirenes.no

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Using only the highest quality ingredients (organic where possible), this limited-quantity, luxury British brand takes extra special care to ensure that each Bath Ritual Recipe Kit, soap and selection box is packed with love and attention.

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Words – Scott Manson

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ith its honey-stone walls, mossy roof, ancient well and geese nonchalantly wandering around outside, this place is a picture-perfect example of a Cotswolds hotel. It sits next to the river Windrush in the heart of Minster Lovell, a cute little village just west of the Prime Minister’s constituency in Witney, Oxon. It’s also within easy walking distance of the extensive and atmospheric Minster Lovell ruins, a former grand hall that now makes for a fascinating spot for a stroll.

Back at the hotel, first impressions are good.

Our room is reached via the bar – and just past a roaring log fire – taking us up a steep winding staircase into a surprisingly large, woodenbeamed attic room. Attractively decorated with a sitting room, bijoux bathroom and a pleasingly old-fashioned, slightly wonky floor, it also offered a comfy four-poster bed complete with big pillows. It was incredibly cosy too, particularly given the building’s age, and despite our concerns about its location directly above the bar we could hear little more than a low murmur, and no noise at all after midnight.

The gastropub-style food served in the restaurant was excellent, with a daily updated specials board comprising seasonal dishes and

Old-world charm Take a step back into the past, and enjoy some rustic luxury and serious relaxation in one of the most picturesque parts of the UK – the Cotswolds predominantly local fare, such as crayfish caught on the river that the hotel borders and a perfectly cooked steak sourced from a nearby beef producer. The breakfast offering was similarly strong – from the fat sausages to the homemade preserves and, most exciting for my daughter, a glistening honeycomb that could be scraped on to toast.

It’s a very child-friendly place all round, with rods for fishing nearby, a giant chess set, petanque court and even an onsite menagerie of ducks, rabbits, chickens and

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guinea pigs to keep the little ones amused.

There are 56 rooms in all, with 16 of them in the pub and 40 of them across the road in the more modern Minster Mill building, but I’d definitely recommend plumping for the oldworld option. Waking up in a centuries-old room with the faint scent of downstairs’ log fire in the air, and the promise of the fabulous cooked breakfast ahead, can’t fail to put you in the relaxed frame of mind, whatever the day ahead may hold. oldswanandminstermill.com

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Words – Scott Manson

If you go down to the Wood today…

The Lime Wood spa hotel in the New Forest offers a relaxing break in a Regency-style setting with all the mod cons you’d expect

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ow, this is confusing. We’re at Lime Wood, a spa hotel in the heart of the New Forest, which to the untrained eye looks like it’s been there for centuries. In truth, there was once a mediaeval hunting lodge here in the 13th century, which was then taken as a residence by the Duke of Clarence. Little of the original building remains but only those with a sharp eye – perhaps spotting the build date inscription of MMXVII above the Regency-style entrance – would guess that this handsome limestone property was a modern build.

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This is no staid country house estate though, as the whole experience is shot through with quirky touches from the moment you arrive.The first, delightfully, is the fact that the area’s famous wild horses roam freely around the driveway approach. Surprisingly open to being petted, we caused a mini traffic jam on approach as my wife and daughter popped out of the car to feed an apple to one of them.

Other lovely touches found in the pristine grounds include a giant wooden swing that flies up above a duck pond, metallic art installations, a brass cocoon-style hammock, beehives and a quaint little wooden smokehouse where the

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hotel’s chefs can weave their culinary alchemy with local fish and meats.

Although the hotel has been open for a few years, the place still feels remarkably fresh.There’s not a scuff mark nor a speck of dust to be found, from the beautiful library room to the basement billiards and snooker space to the boot room – handily kitted out with Hunter wellies for those who fancy a stroll in the nearby forest – this a beautifully maintained property.

This attention to detail is exemplary, and is best seen in the bar and restaurant design. The former encompasses a Mediterranean-style inner courtyard, complete with a retracting glass roof for sunny days, while the latter’s Martin Brudniski-designed interior combines dark leathers with modern art and, very fashionable at the moment, a scarlet meat slicer, all to brilliant effect. It’s the sort of room that, once in, you really don’t want to leave.

And when food is this good, why would you want to? The menu was devised by Luke Holder and Angela Hartnett and includes a deep and rich rabbit ragu pasta dish (pasta is Hartnett’s speciality), rose veal chops and, of course, all manner of delicious charcuterie, courtesy of that on-site smokehouse. A delicious caramelised banana, served with chocolate and muscovado sponge provided a fitting finale to a memorable meal.

Our bed that night was in one of the cute Garden Lodges, complete with a log fire which, after a few false starts, I managed to coax into a satisfying blaze.The fire was in a separate lounge, with the large bedroom upstairs, offering views of both the forest and main house. Again, little touches such as bathroom lights that click on when you enter and a bijoux balcony that’s perfect for relaxing with a glass of wine, confirm Lime Wood as a place that’s getting everything right.

Before we leave I’m lucky enough to enjoy a signature treatment at Herb House, the hotel’s stunning spa. It offers a steaming outdoor hot pool, a decent-sized indoor pool, plus a sauna, steam room and hydropool all set in a pretty courtyard that feels like an oasis of calm. So relaxing was my Refinery Men’s Facial, in fact, that my wife insisted on doing the homeward driving in case my blissed-out state led to a motorway mishap.

Such is the power of Lime Wood… limewoodhotel.co.uk

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Words – Scott Manson

This Ghost’s got spirit One of the most sought-after luxury cars on the market has evolved. Feast your eyes on the refined and elegant Rolls-Royce Ghost II

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W

ith my daughter in the back watching CBeebies on a TV screen, my wife in the front, shoes kicked off, revelling in the deep lamb’s wool that covers the floor and, of course, myself in the driver’s seat enjoying every second of the experience, all feels right with the world.

I wonder if Rolls-Royce owners ever get jaded? From my three-day drive of the new Rolls-Royce Ghost II it’s hard to see how that’s possible. To paraphrase Samuel Johnson, when a man is tired of a Rolls-Royce, he is tired of life. It is, as you’d expect, the last word in luxury. However, with a twin-turbo 6.6-litre V-12 under the capacious bonnet, this is no show pony. Rather, it’s a machine that rewards the driver every step of the way.

Yes, it goes from 0-62mph in 4.8 seconds, and there’s a Dynamic Driving Package option that tightens up the suspension and quickens up the steering but, frankly, you don’t need it. This is a car for long motorway cruises or international road trips, rather than seat-ofthe-pants burn-ups. Everything about it feels geared towards making your driving experience more pleasurable and, crucially, safer. From the satellite-aided gearbox, which uses GPS data to read the roadscape ahead of you, anticipate your driving needs and shift the transmission accordingly, to the adaptive LED headlights and idiot-proof iDrive control system accessed through a handsome rotary knob that takes care of the car’s interior electronics, this is a car that anticipates your every move.

This was best illustrated on a stretch of the M4 when, as I cruised at a cop-safe 74mph, someone slammed on their brakes and I suddenly found several tons of metal heading up the backside of a Fiat Punto. Luckily, I’d

seen the brake lights and came to a safe stop but, what I remember most are the caution beeps – growing increasingly strident – and the head-up display indicating imminent collision.

Quite simply, the car had spotted the problem at the same time I did and alerted me to the fact. This is, frankly, astonishing, and a credit to those clever engineers at Goodwood.

More than 60 craftsmen at the Rolls-Royce HQ spend some 450 hours labouring over each custom, hand-finished automobile.

Rolls-Royce says that in excess of 85% of the 4,000 cars it will sell this year are bespoke, which means that if a buyer has a family crest, for example, they may choose to have that included in the interior trim.

Compared to its predecessor, the Ghost II is more evolution than revolution. And with good reason, as few buyers of the original model would be happy to see wholesale changes made to a model that, at the earliest, they bought in 2010. Instead, there’s a sweet swooped crease running down the bonnet – evocative of a jet’s vapour trail, they say – while the grille has been raised by 30mm and the Spirit of Ecstasy is angled forward by a further seven degrees. The bumpers have also been restyled to be more round and imposing, and the side character line now ends more softly. The intelligent headlight system, which dims for passing cars, is also a best-in-class new feature This may feel like pointless tinkering, but it really isn’t. It’s just that, when a car is this good, there is little point in reinventing the wheel, if you’ll pardon the pun. Instead, those West Sussex-based boffins at Rolls-Royce make incremental adjustments and refinements to keep this model at the top of its game. Indeed, for this writer, when it comes to ultra-luxury saloons, Rolls-Royce is the only game in town. rolls-royce.com

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Rolls-Royce Ghost II Engine: 6.6-litre twin-turbo V12 Transmission: Eight-speed auto, rear-wheel drive Power/torque: 563bhp/780Nm Performance: 0-62mph: 4.8 seconds, top speed: 155mph

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Words – Peter Dean

masterpiece Some of the world’s greatest ‘starchitects’ have helped Qatar to rise out of the desert to create a purpose-built luxury paradise

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I

t is an afternoon in early October and I’m sitting in a Land Cruiser with semi-inflated tyres on a giant sand dune that looks across an inland sea to Saudi Arabia. My driver, Khalid, points me away from the setting sun towards something that has caught his eye in the distance. A flamingo perhaps, the kind that normally swarm in their thousands here. With his keffiyeh billowing in the aircon and some Iraqi pop blaring, he throws the steering wheel sharply away to his right, dropping the car into an impossibly steep dive down a slope more severe than Le Face at Val d’Isere. Sand churns either side from the slipping wheels, as we skid down to an almost certain death.

Somehow, impossibly, we arrive at the bottom in one piece and promptly speed away up yet more, steeper dunes.

This is dune-bashing Qatar-style, one of the many breathtaking pursuits on a desert safari in the south east of the country and a must-do during a 48-hour stopover. After careering down the sand you can cool off in the vast Khor Al Adaid waters, or simply marvel at this rare opportunity to see the sea jut deep into a sizeable desert. There are camps here where you can also barbecue under the stars.

Qatar is a tiny country, smaller than Yorkshire, yet its people are the wealthiest on the planet (GDP per capita). On the short ride back from the desert to capital Doha you pass a belching oil refinery, whose flames can be seen for miles and is a reminder of how this once-poor nation has been catapulted into international significance.

And the wealth is evident wherever you look.

The moment you step off the Qatar Airways (QA) A380 into the vast, sleek Hamad International you are clearly in a place that is being built to a blueprint of the most ostentatious and innovative stopover destination in the Middle East. The new $16 billion airport features 28 art installations, including the controversial $6.8m Urs Fischer sculpture of a teddy bear impaled by an angle-poise lamp. There are 70 retail units for 24/7 global fashionistas and a 10,000 sq m business lounge. QA’s lounge at Heathrow was impressive with its 2004 Pol Roger and exquisite canapés, but the Al Mourjan Business Lounge is something else.

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Dune-bashing is one of the many breathtaking pursuits on a desert safari

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The approach to the city is impressive too, with the skyline of the modern city a blatant show of intent. There’s the condom-like Doha Tower, recently voted the best tower in the Middle East, standing erect in an imposing row at the far end of the bay. There are so many unique buildings in this Gotham-esque skyline, in fact, that it’s as if someone gave blank chequebooks to the world’s best architects and told them to get on with it. Which isn’t far from the truth. ‘Build it and they will come’ could be the city’s slogan.

Doha Tower is one of three dozen towers and just one of Doha’s many impressive feats of modern architecture. There is Zig Zag, the residential towers that seem to defy the laws of gravity like an Escher lithograph. The Torch Hotel is 350m high and lights up with a real flame like a giant torch, and has a cantilevered swimming pool on the 19th floor so you can swim in mid-air. Of the seven stadia being built for the 2020 World Cup, four are designed to be dismantled and be given to developing nations as a gift. More traditional in look and feel, but no less impressive, are the Spiral Mosque and Museum of Islamic Art that cleverly use form and materials from the past to reinvent the future.

The Torch Hotel is 350m high and lights up with a real flame like a giant torch

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The museum is fast becoming an icon of Qatar itself, as a confluence of the traditional and modern – both in its own design but also sitting as it does on a standalone island alongside the dhow harbour and across the bay from the modern edifices of the business sector. No visit to Doha would be complete without a visit here.

It’s a unique collection of Islamic art housed in a building that seems to capture the essence of Islamic buildings as interpreted by ‘starchitect’ IM Pei. It is simply breathtaking.

The museum, The Pearl’s Riviera-style marina and a fascinating creative quarter called Katara are completed and feel like oases within Doha’s desert of construction. Katara is a tantalising glimpse of what a splendid city this will become; from the beautiful Blue Mosque you walk past potted palms and benches in cool shade towards the sea where a stunning open-air marble amphitheatre offers the Persian Gulf and Arabian skies as backdrops.

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This sense of starting afresh is most apparent in the Souq Waqif, which was razed and then rebuilt stone for stone as a complete Bedouin market. The souq has everything you want from a Middle Eastern market – smells of incense and piles of spices, gold, cloth, rows upon rows of exotic birds, old men smoking sweet shisha and drinking tea. But what it doesn’t have makes it so pleasurable – hassle, litter and crime. There are not many souqs in the world where women can walk alone at night and feel this comfortable.

Qataris, like most Arabs, love their falcons.

Not only is there a row of falcon shops adjacent to the souq but they even have a falcon hospital.

When some bids command upwards of £100,000 a pop they probably also have their own shrinks.

Qatari Airways even allows them to travel inside the cabin, properly tethered and hooded of course. Unlike most of Doha you feel connected to the past here. The Qatari shopkeeper waves you in, smoking and smiling, the birds lined up on wooden poles, motionless and hooded as if they had already put on their eye masks, ready for the plane.

And the heat? It is very, very hot. Coming out of the cool sheen of the airport at 2am on arrival was like being covered in a wet electric blanket. I swear my contact lenses steamed up; and this the start of the cool season. Wayne Rooney is going to have to pack a lot of total block if he wants to get to the shops alive, let alone kick a ball about.

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It is possible to keep out of the heat. The transit Silver Ghost Rolls Royce and the luxury of the hotels I stayed in see to that. The Al Jasra Boutique Hotel is small, understated, festooned with tasteful art, water pools, flowers and a real sense of the Middle East. The St Regis is unashamed Babylonian luxury with a range of top restaurants and lounges, butler service, beach and cute touches like a menu to accompany the flatscreen at the end of your bath. In both you get a lot of bang for your buck. Sobering to think that by 2020 there will be 60 more fivestar hotels here. These include leading brands such as Kempinski, Anantara Resort, Pullman, Adagio, Dusit, Meliã, Mondrian and Westin, with Waldorf Astoria, Mandarin Oriental and M Gallery scheduled to open in 2016, and Le Meridien and JW Marriott in 2017.

As the Roller glided back to Hamad under the rising sun the Corniche, the waterfront promenade that circles the bay, was alive with commuters on foot and in a steady stream of gleaming white SUVs that purr endlessly on the petrol that costs Qataris half the price of water.

You cannot hide from the fact that Qatar is a work in progress – from the 18th-century port of Zubarah in the north, now a World Heritage archaeological site that is being painstakingly revealed from under the desert sand, to the myriad construction sites in Doha – and is creating a new and exciting future for itself, one that is both visionary in its vision and speed of execution, but also built to the tune of extreme luxury.

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Dining in The city offers high standard cuisine of every nationality. For Arabic food try the ful mudammas for breakfast, a highly seasoned bean stew that is eaten with breads, pickles, diced salad vegetables and labneh cheese, washed down with fresh pineapple juice. Khan Farouq is a traditional Egyptian restaurant in the Katara district. Here you should try a variety of dips, falafel and olives to start, and follow with fatteh with grilled lamb or pigeon. You can smoke a variety of shisha inside and the mint tea is to die for. The night-time dhow cruise has similar Arabic delicacies but book in advance through Qatar International Adventures as the port is surprisingly uncommercial. Modern French cuisine with the highest view of the city can be found at rotating restaurant Three Sixty at the Torch. A more contemporary New York-buzz can be found at the selection of restaurants at the W Doha Hotel, which was the most integrated Qatari/ international scene I encountered with W’s customary designled hipness. The St Regis boasts a range of restaurants, including two Gordon Ramsay restaurants, Astor Grill and Hakkasan. After dinner there’s a menu of jazz to be had at Jazz at Lincoln Center (seriously that Lincoln Center) and the barman makes a mean Martini. And no trip would be complete without tasting the dates that were dark, rich, moist and very, very Moorish (apologies). Alcohol is strictly controlled and is only available inside at hotel bars and restaurants. Your bags are screened at Hamad on entry, with Gordon Ramsay recently falling foul with a bottle of Dom Perignon.

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How to do it Al Jasra Hotel, part of the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels Collection. www.swbh.com The St. Regis Doha. www.stregisdoha.com Qatar Airways has direct flights from London to Doha from ÂŁ604 return. www.qatarairways.com Qatar International Adventures offers a range of tours, including Desert Safaris, North of Qatar Tours, Doha City Tours and Dhow Cruise Excursions. www.qia-qatar.com For more information on Qatar please visit www.qatartourism.gov.qa

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A MASTERFUL CHOICE Magnus Carlsen is the hottest property in the increasingly popular world of chess right now. A grandmaster at the age of 13, and just 24 now, Norwegian Carlsen is the number one ranked player in the world and the reigning world champion. He has also become something of a pin-up player, with Cosmopolitan voting him one of the sexiest men of 2013.

He’s seen as a new, different breed of player, possessed with analytical intelligence, spontaneous intuition and the stamina to sit at the chess table for up to seven hours. This, it’s said, is one of the main reasons why older grandmasters find him impossible to beat, as new rules forbid players from retiring from the table for a break, as it would give them the chance to consult chess analysis computers.

A brilliant mind, of course, chooses an equally impressive watch, and Carlsen can be seen sporting his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial at every tournament. This stylish and sporty piece offers a 60-hour power reserve, magnetic resistance and, of course, the seminal self-winding movement and co-axial escapement which was invented, as every horophile knows, by the late, great British watchmaker George Daniels. Like Carlsen, he too was a master of his craft. omegawatches.com

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AC-ONE TIDES ADMIRAL’S CUP REINVENTED, BREAKING THE WAVES FOR MORE THAN 50 YEARS

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