Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2011 • July by Wainscot Media

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS •JULY 2011 • $10.00

HOW TO SELL ON FACEBOOK MINIMALIST RUNNING REVOLUTION ANGEL MARTINEZ ON DECKERS’ EMERGING BRANDS MEET THE CLARKS RETAIL ALL-STARS

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See the BĂ¸rn Spring 2012 Collections at WSA and Outdoor Retailer

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“WALK NEW GROUND WITH AHNU @ ENKWSA” Angel Martinez, President, CEO & Chairman , Deckers Outdoor Corporation

IN IT TO WIN IT AT ENKWSA ENKWSA invites you to honor Angel Martinez as he receives 2011 Footwear Industry Icon Award Join Angel Martinez for the ofﬁcial re-launch of Ahnu @ ENKWSA

JULY 27.28.29 . THE SANDS EXPO CENTER . LAS VEGAS . ENKWSA.COM

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director

16 Shopping Goes Social

Nancy Campbell Creative Director

More and more shoppers are using social media sites to buy shoes and apparel. Follow these tips to launch a Facebook store and start cashing in. By Audrey Goodson

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Audrey Goodson Meagan Walker Associate Editors Melissa D’Agnese Editorial Intern

18 Q&A: Deckers Outdoor Angel Martinez, chairman and CEO of Deckers Outdoor, predicts some big changes in footwear’s future, but remains positive about powerhouse Ugg and the company’s emerging brands. By Greg Dutter

Crevo

24 Baring it All

CONTRIBUTORS Michel Onofrio Style Director Kathy Passero Editor at Large Jamie Wetherbe West Coast Editor

Minimalist footwear is blazing a new trail. Here’s what’s on tap for next spring. By Meagan Walker

28 Clarks All-Stars

From rookies to pros, a roster of retailers across the country help drive sales for the comfort brand.

30 Mr. Sandman Earthy hues and preppy touches mix in men’s spring sneakers. By Angela Velasquez

36 Working Class

Tretorn lace-up. Michael Kors hooded blouse; Eric Javitz hat.

Classic American work boots stomp into Spring ’12. By Meagan Walker

38 Sweet Tranquil colors and laidback feminine silhouettes breeze into women’s sneakers for next spring. By Angela Velasquez

12 Editor’s Note 14 This Just In 32 What’s Selling 34 Trend Spotting 54 Comfort 56 Work

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher David Sutula VP Technology Leslie Sutula VP Account Services Laurie Guptill Production Manager ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com

10 Contributors

48 Shoe Salon

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Executive Art Director Brad Istnick Lenny Vella Art Directors Tim Jones Senior Designer

On the cover: Sperry Top-Sider seersucker sneaker. BCBG T-shirt; skirt by Sylvia Heisel; American Apparel socks. Photography by Ruvan Wijesooriya. Model: Audrey/Muse

60 Last Word

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 22 issue #6 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 100037118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO

PORTLANDIA SPORT JOHN LENNON SUNNY SHOES MISS ME LEATHER ALLEN EDMONDS SHOE CORPORATION TSUBO NEW EDITION TOP GUY INTERNATIONAL TRADING KAREN KEITH AD TEC MASCOTTE UNSENSORED XXX TOI & MOI MOCHA KIDS STEVEN BY STEVE MADDEN PRIVILEGED DECKERS OUTDOOR CORP CITE CARA USA PIERRE DUMAS GORJANA CARI ME HOT CUTIE MIA LIMITED EDITION PRESTIGE FOOTWEAR INC FORTUNE DYNAMIC INC HEALTH & BEAUTY CONNECTION LLC BELLA EVER LLC IN & OUT STATION INC KINGSHOW CHAMPER VASAVIA KAYSER ROTH CORP BAREFOOT FREEDOM CHATTIES LUCITA IMAGINE IT ALL AHNU RW FOOTWEAR INC UNSENSORED DIBA IMPORTS CHENG’S TRADING INC MURANO BY PASSARELA BIG BUDDHA SHOES BORDAN SHOE CO STYLUXE MA BY MICHAEL ANTONIO ORTERY TECHNOLOGIES INC WINTER FOOT REPAIR SKIN JOHN LENNON REBEL DESIGNS WESTERN CHIEF KIDS FLOURISH J.P. ORIGINAL CORP W. DNA FOOTWEAR, INC. WALKING CRADLES MIXX SHUZ GROOVE FOOTWEAR UNSENSORED KIDS PAPRIKA BRONX TWIN TIGER FOOTWEAR VIAMARA SUNNY AIT INC SHOE MAGNATE INC LUNA WALK-OVER DOLLHOUSE FOOTWEAR TAIWAN FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURERS ASSN. BRIGHT WAY INTERNATIONAL CORP KEDDO NEMESIS WATCHES DR. ANDREW WEIL INTEGRATED FOOTWEAR MASTERS FOOTWEAR INC SANZIA WATERPROOF FABULOUS MAGNIFIQUE CHINA FOREIGN TRADE GUANGZHOU EXHIBITION CORP KANNER CORP MICHAEL ANTONIO STUDIO VENINI 1888 SOUTH CHINA IMPORT SPRING FOOTWEAR CORP. RCK BELLA TEAM FOOTWEAR INC J-41 ITALIC FORMA FOOTWEAR RUGGED GOODWEAR SHOE CO. INC PAL MAL INT’L INC ELITE BY PASSARELA PETALIA LEGEND FOOTWEAR INC ALLEN EDMONDS CEDAR PRODUCTS ARDIENTE GH. BASS MASAI USA CORP. (MBT) SPRING STEP SUP TRADING BONNIBEL CYBERTEGIC SEXY LADY SIMCO IMPORTED SHOES IN & OUT DEQUAN SHOES TRADING CO. LTD. G.A.Y. LLC ITASCA FOOTWEAR BY C.O. LYNCH ENTERPRISES FIRST SIGHT 1999 BY ZIGI MICHAEL ANTONIO FOOTWEAR GROUP BABELAE MISS ME MISBEHAVE AUSIOMO MITCHIE’S MATCHINGS INC ZOTA UNIQUE NANCY LI DPN BOOTSKINS MIA GIRL DUX ORTHAHEEL GRAZIE NOT RATED ROYAL FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES CHUNG SHI TOP RANK MARK LEMP FOOTWEAR DE BLOSSOM COLLECTION P.W.H. - ORIENTAL LTD DUFLEX WALKER NEW LIANMEI INC SEA DRAGON INDUSTRIALS INC. GOLD EASY INTERNATIONAL LIMITED PLAYBOY STEP UP INTERNATIONAL YORK BOOT ZIGI NEW YORK GROUP CITY CLASSIFIED CHINESE LAUNDRY CALZALETAS SINGULAR INTERNATIONAL LTD. CL BY LAUNDRY ALBERTO FELLINI 79 SOUTH CHINA IMPORT INC CHERISH BY ELEGANT MASTER SYSTEM INC SMARTTY GET FRESH RADIANT FOOTWEAR INC BURTEN DISTRIBUTION WILD DIVA WOLKY NORTH AMERICA CHINA LEATHER INDUSTRY ASSN. ZOTA USA ORTERY TRUVIEW BIJOLIE STAHEEKUM G.O. MAX INTERNATIONAL INC. LOVELY BAG INC IN SQUARE THE FLEXX USA BIRKI’S LASONIA GENTS DPN SHOES INC ZIGINY LUICHINY JEFFREY CAMPBELL JESCO FOOTWEAR INC TWO LIPS MONA MIA COLLEZIONE INC JOSEF SEIBEL VULKAN BERRIES BY AETREX REGENCY IMPEX ELEGANT FOOTWEAR INC. BEWILD ASHLEY M. JOLIE VICTORIA LATITUDES INC 385 CADILIAC FREE FORCE MISS SANDY MACHI FOOTWEAR INC GRAMERCY VANLLY SHOES JENNY BY ARA LINK DEMAND SHOES HELIUM MADNESS SHULLY’S KISS AGAPE BELLA MARIE 2 LIPS TOO PORTLANDIA NEWAY GLOBAL CONCEPT USA INC MINI MIA BRUNO MAGLI FUJIAN FOREIGN ECONOMIC SERVICE TRADE CORP. SUPERSTAR INT’L CHUNG SHI GOOD FELLAS KISS ME ME & FRIENDS AG DIVERSE ALEGRIA SCHOOL RIDER SEDUCEME VITO FORTUNA E & R GENERATION FOOTWEAR BLACK ROCK FOOTWEAR AMADEO SHOES NAUGHTY MONKEY ZOTA EXCHANGE 7 COLOR TRADING INC ARA SHOES ISTEP AETREX LISA B. & COMPANY BRECKELLE’S BONANZA MARICHIMANI GREEN HANNAH INC. EIFFEL TOWER VISION PRODUCTS J & B YANG CORPORATION BECA MICHELE COMECO INC SHOE EXCHANGE INC BLOSSOM COLLECTIONS X2B CPC ARDOR COLLECTION INCORPORATED U FASHION ACCESSORIES INC MARC JOSEPH NEW YORK SHOE REPUBLIC L.A. INC. BALL BAND ANSWER2 DAVID TATE INC TAIMA INTERNATIONAL INC. LORIBLU ZIGI HANDBAGS SIMONE BY MADNESS MODESTA LAURA ASHLEY WOOCCOLI SANDY’S WHOLESALE SHOE DIV CLIMATE X VENETO HANDBAGS DREAMS FOOTWEAR INC NOVA SCARPA GROUP LLC ARIDER CORTINA CHINA LTD. MARILYN MODA INC. FASHION BAY INC MULTIWEAR CORP YELLOW BOX CORP INFLUENCE WESTWOOD FOOTWEAR CORP SOLES SIMONELLI FOOTWEAR INC. TOP TROTTERS SAIF INTERNATIONAL INC. ESPANOLA TOO APPEAL SANDAL KING AMIGA SHOES FACTORY TOP MODA ALLEN EDMONDS BELTS AND SOCK VEECO SHOES SIMPLY PETALS LILI L. LEATHER COLLECTION OLEM SHOE CORP. SUNSPOT BEAUTY HEEL AWIT LYNCO ORTHOTIC ENCANTO SARAH ZANKA FASHION HOT AIR, INC MAXIMUS RIPLAY AMERICAN WEST INTERNATIONAL TRADES, LLC OPPO ORIGINAL CORP BELLADIA RIEKER SHOE CORP WELLS FOUNTAIN INC VIDA GROUP SQUEAKERS DAWGS GOLF NEXT STYLE INC. R.S.F. TREADEASY MADNESS JR XICA EASYUSA GO FRESH SBICCA OF CALIFORNIA MARILYN MONROE REINHART GLOBAL BRANDS LLC MONTANA WEST TREE IMPORT EXPORT CORP TRUSOL ITALINA G.K EUROSPORT INC. AIR SPORT Z.D. NOVA INTERNATIONAL, LLC KIPPYS FOOTWEAR INC. RED COLLECTION EDDIE MORAN DON MARCO GRIZZLEEZ BY ZIGI CHAOS LEATHER HANDBAGS ROCK AND CANDY BY ZIGI NOVESTA TEANA BEYOND SUN YORKOS ENTERPRISE (USA) INC. JB FOOTWEAR GENTLE SOULS RAGAZZI ESTAR DE MODA RIA LUNA COMFORT SPENCO NIMA ACCESSORIES, INC. ROYAL SHOES, INC. STEVE MADDEN LUNA USA, LLC PINK COOKIE DELICIOSO ENVY FOOTWEAR ELIS LLC SAS SHOES VENETO NY FRISKY NINETEEN LLC VAN GOGH PALOS VERDES FOOTWEAR - VOLATILE ANNA JACOBIES INC. SOFT WALK AEROSOLES NATIONAL FASHIONS IMPORTS INC AZURA AETREX WORLDWIDE INC NURSING YOUR FEET SEDUCTORA COCO JUMBO ARA HANDBAGS ALLEN EDMONDS CEDAR AND ACCESSORIES LITTLE LAUNDRY RASOLLI FOOTWEAR TSUBO JOSEPH ALLEN CARRUCCI SPORT RE-MIX ALPRO BAILARINAS GABRIELLE ALEXANDRA SHOES UNRESTRICTED MADDEN GIRL ROC SOC ELEGANT COLLECTION APIS FOOTWEAR CO REALM DOCKERS FOOTWEAR CHINAMERICA INC FERRACINNI GENERATION ZIGGIES EVE HUIYUAN INTERNATIONAL COMMERCE & EXHIBITION CO. LTD. POSH PANDA LLC PINMEEZ SAFA PINK DUCHESS PROSPECS FIORE SLIP GUARDIAN MARCO FABRINNI VERY VOLATILE CARLOTTI FEMINI ACCESSORIES INTERNATIONAL, LLC GEE’ WAWA FOOTWEAR FOREVER 4U CADAMI UNSENSORED MENS HYPARD TRADING CORP JIA YING SHOES MANUFACTURER LTD. GOURMET NFN DREW SHOE CORP H.H. BROWN SHOE CO. BRUNO VALENTI PHOTOSIMILE ROMIKA S.C.I.I. ELVIS PRESLEY JCK MAX INC. LITTLE ANGEL CITE COMFORT BLUE SUEDE SHOES M. AIR OSITOS SHOES KELSI DAGGER GLAZE TALENT DUCK RIVER OUTFITTERS CELESTE ROCUS HELLE COMFORT TWO LIPS SHOE CO ROMEO & JULIETTE INC KORK-EASE LTC TRADING CORP FIDELIO ROS HOMMERSON PALOVIO SUN UP INTERNATIONAL CORP TATAMI TPSC LA ROSA PAPILLIO PROMISE TKJ ENTERPRISES HOLDEN & BRANDS INC. DEAD SEA TREASURES LOVE & PEACE RFNY JOY FOOTWEAR INTERNATIONAL GOLDEN WEST FOOTWEAR COAST TO COAST APPAREL ECCO USA, INC LUICHINY RED CARPET SAM & JEFFREY 3D PHOTOARM FLEXX STUDIO RESTRICTED FOOTWEAR DREAMS BY CALIFORNIA MERRELL DAWGS VIETNAM LEATHER & FOOTWEAR ASSN. RESOLVE BY ROBERT WAYNE DUREA OF HOLLAND KRAVINGS BY KLOGS SPOTON SELINA LECHAT USA, INC. CARRUCCI COLLEZIONI JELLY BELLY L & C ERIC HOT GOSSIP RJ GIRL ULTIMATE CREATIONS PEPPER GATE FOOTWEAR INC. LUV FOOTWEAR USA DAWGS INC. RENEEZE ZIGINY BLACK LABEL HYPNOTIC JANICE JEAIR ONEX CHARLES ALBERT NEW BALANCE ATHLETIC SHOE OCEAN LIFE STYLES SPLASH DND FASHION INC ALLEN EDMONDS SHOE COMPANY MATIKO FOOTWEAR SPRINGLAND FOOTWEAR, INC MAD MAD M PTE LTD. GEERS V & M GROUP CORP (STUDIO 56 FOOTWEAR) ANTISTEP THE ROCKPORT CO CORDANI ELEGANCE ENTERPRISE CORP TANGO REMONTE DORNDORF JOYMAX COODO MATIN CHAGRIN SEI ORLY SHOES INC. PASSARELA AARON’S FOOTWEAR CO. TECS J. JANSEN DESIGNS MAKER’S MEGALUCK INDUSTRY SDN BHD NORTHRIDGE GARDENS BONAFINI ENTERPRISES INC PG LITE EAST LION CORP CLEAN PLATE CLUB LLC FAR NINE VOLATILE GIRL CARRUCCI BY JC STUDIO KIMERA INTERNATIONAL INC LLOYD SHOES PINEAPPLE DELLI DINO SUMMER RIO CORP REFRESH ZEYZANI L.A. LUO CHENG, INC RYA Z’S TREASURES - THE HOUSE OF ZEYZANI SWEET BEAUTY 2POD KING WINDSOR GROUP IMPEXSA CORP DBA MAKER’S SHOES QUPID VOLATILE HANDBAGS LADIA BEARPAW STORY GIA VINITECK S.A. DE C.V. MADEMOISELLE CAPELLI NEW YORK KIDS NATURE BREEZE LADY GODIVA SMAC INC JACK’S ANDRE CARRUCCI COLLEZIONI SMART CARE/U.S. CONTINENTAL ZOTA CLASSIC BLOSSOM FOOTWEAR INC C & L COMMERCIAL CORPORATION EARTH INC 2 LIPS TOO- KIDS KALSO EARTH SHOE FOOTPRINTS CARRIE ANNA ALMEIDA MIA 2 LEOPARD B022 WASHINGTON SHOE CO DEK ZINA EVA HANDBAGS YOKI FOOTWEAR FOREVER BEADS N BAGS SAS SHOEMAKERS FUDA SHOES INC MIA KIDS COCA COLA J & L FOOTWEAR INC CHARLES ALBERT SPORT IRREGULAR CHOICE LYNCO BANANA BLUES SODA HEREVER CITY SNAPPERS NORTH WOODS SECRET LAB BEST TOP GUY NAOT FOOTWEAR SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL CHULIS SWEET SEVENTEEN KING FAIR INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. ARIAT INTERNATIONAL L.A. DEMODA FOOTWEAR ELITES DELLA DESIGNED ELLA COLUMBIA RUBBER BOOTS CIEC OVERSEAS EXHIBITION CO. LTD. STEP BY STEP CHINESE LAUNDRY WASH ITALIAN SHOEMAKERS INC SOGNO REAL FASHION INC BAMBOO SIMPLE AND EASY MAYA BY CALZALETAS TWISTED SHOES CUT N PASTE LEATHER COLLECTION PHOTOCAPTURE SHOE AHOLIC FIVE STAR BOOT SPICY SHOES DANSKO J.C. DOSSIER ROBERT WAYNE COLLECTION WILD DEUCES CALVIN CORPORATION LTD MT EMEY EVERGREEN GROUP USA ANALPA INC. FOOT SOX THIELE TANNING COMPANY DAWGS SAFETY XEYES KOZY FOOTWEAR NY BEAN ROCKIN FOOTWEAR LLC RIONI INC SANDALISTAS LUOCHENG PINKY FOOTWEAR INC. BIRKENSTOCK JAMBU TENSHI GROUP BELLA SHOES WHOLESALE FOREVER LINK INT’L. INC. MALENA COLLECTION VINTAGE JOSMO SHOES VALUEDSHOW MANAGEMENT LLC FASHION FOCUS JARMAN EARTH ORIGINS DOLLY’S BRAND HEADQUARTERS INC RED CIRCLE FOOTWEAR INC CONAL INT’L TRADING INC CODE VIII CHOOKA TALLULAH BLU WILD ROSE DELICACY LIL HAZEL’S RITMO DANCE ROBERTO ROSSI ANNE MICHELLE LEON SUNNY FEET BUSSOLA USA GINA GROUP LLC HAPPY NEW STAR INC VALENTI FRANCO CAPELLI NEW YORK FOLD FLOPS SHM VIA PINKY COLLECTION KENNY K. LS NETWORKS FAHRENHEIT OASIS R.S. PARKASH ASSOCIATES BOXER DOGS MIA FIRST COST DIVISION DIRTY LAUNDRY DOCKERS FOOTWEAR CHLOE BOUTIN KAKYCO CALTAK USA GOLDEN ISLAND CORP NEW ERA DESIGN LENA LUISA ARCOPEDICO N.Y.L.A. SHOES INC D.B.D.K. FASHION C&E EARTHIES KARYN’S COLLECTION AQUA TECS TAOS FOOTWEAR AIR RIDER INTERNATIONAL CORP DREAM SEEK (D. SEEK) BIGWILL WAH LEI FOOTWEAR VLADO FOOTWEAR DASA BRANDS LLC QUPID LUXE JPK PARIS75 EMPERIA HANDBAGS J. KUO CREATE EARTH CO. LTD. FIRST COMFORT A-ONE BESTFIT INTERNATIONAL INC FLIP FLOP FOOT REPAIR KLOGS-USA CLEOPATRA DEREON FOOTWEAR FUEL LILIANA MIA AMORE RED KISS FOOTWEAR PHOENIX FOOTWEAR GROUP FLOR RUBY SHOES VOLATILE KIDS RCK J & ELIZABETH BETSY BUMPER ROUGH JUSTICE NUSHUZ SEVENCOLOR MERCI MARIE BORN CROWN FRANCO VANUCCI MARIO CORTI ARA MENS STAGELIGHT FLY FLOT SPOT FOOTWEAR INC FINN COMFORT ANN KRISTAL CADILLAC MOCHA PEPPER GATE PACIFIC CASUALS YEYSHOES INC. NOMAD FOOTWEAR INC BRAHA INDUSTRIES INC STORM / KAYAK SEBAGO BRIXTON KOLT FASHION-NUDE FOOTWEAR Z-SEA P.W. MINOR LEVI’S FOOTWEAR YALEET INC JELLY BEANS STELLA CALVIN KLEIN HOSIERY LOVMARK RUBICON DELLI ALDO KATIE POP KS 18 NEW WAVE, INC. KISSES BORN FOOTSAVER HI TEC BLACK ROCK FOOTWEAR CROCS THINK! ESSENCE ZIGIGIRL BOLARO SANZIA LUCKY TOP MIA SHOES ULTIMATE CREATIONS CHARLES ALBERT SHABOOM NAUGHTY MONKEY MICHAEL ANTONIO STUDIO CHINESE LAUNDRY WASH CARRUCCI COLLEZIONI HUE LEGWEAR FOR WOMEN

IN IT TO WIN IT AT ENKWSA ENKWSA + Ahnu host Opening Night Celebration, Wednesday, July 27 Shop 1000+ Exhibiting Brands

JULY 27.28.29 . THE SANDS EXPO CENTER . LAS VEGAS . ENKWSA.COM

contributors inside the creative mind

RUVAN WIJESOORIYA PHOTOGRAPHER A former journalism student with an interest in style, Ruvan made the leap to a career in photography and has never looked back. He had just returned from Afghanistan, where he was documenting humanitarian efforts, when the opportunity of a little lighter subject— cute sneakers—offered a refreshing alternative. This is Ruvan’s first time shooting for Footwear Plus. His work has also appeared in New York Magazine, The New York Times and British Vogue, and his clients have included Paul Smith, Jill Stuart and Tse. In addition, Ruvan’s subjects have often been popular musicians, including Iggy Pop (at left).

DEAN POWELL, PHOTOGRAPHER Owner of one of New York’s rare still life studios, Dean is in high demand for magazine photography and is Footwear Plus’ go-to partner for striking product shots, including this month’s Trend Spotting stories. He studied imaging arts at the Rochester Institute of Technology, and aims to give viewers of his work a fresh visual experience. Dean has also contributed to Vogue and Outdoor Life, plus done creative work for MAC Cosmetics, Estée Lauder and Grey Advertising.

TIM JONES, ART DIRECTOR Call it a recurring gig: Jones is back once again lending his artisitic talents to Footwear Plus. One of our original art directors back in the mid-’90s, he has also designed for Nickelodeon, Twist, Fitness, Self and Spin, among others. “I’ve had many cool magazine gigs over the years but nowhere did I have more fun than at Footwear Plus,” says the San Francisco native, Brooklyn dweller, musician and father. “Coming back is always a pleasure. It feels so good to design just for myself, as I did back then.”

editor’s note meet the boss 7

Turning the Tables I’M THE ONE who asks the questions. For more than 20 years as a working journalist, I’ve been the interviewer and, with respect to my tenure at Footwear Plus, it’s been in search for answers to help readers better understand the latest goingson in our industry as well as to get to know the people behind the brands and storefronts. The selling of shoes is a people business, and learning about the individuals can only be of help. Beyond that, it’s fascinating to learn where people come from—literally and figuratively. Everyone has a story, and I have enjoyed writing about so many great ones over the years. When conducting this month’s Q&A (p. 18) with Angel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Outdoor, I asked, “What might people be surprised to know about you?” With deft political acumen, Martinez dodged answering by asking me the same question. I volleyed back by moving on to the next question, but it got me thinking that I should answer some of the questions I’ve enjoyed asking many industry leaders over the years. Turnabout is fair play. More importantly, I hope my answers bring us closer together, a process that Footwear Plus has aimed to achieve with every issue for 21 years. So here it goes…

What was the last movie you saw? Bridesmaids, which was overrated. But I highly recommend the BBC series Being Human. What’s on your iPod? Most likely, Springsteen. (R.I.P. Big Man.) What is your favorite hometown memory? The pickup games where I grew up in Maplewood, NJ. After school and all summer long, we’d play touch football, street hockey, Wiffle ball, basketball, running bases, soccer, ping pong— you name it. If it could be caught, hit or scored, it was game on. In high school, you were most likely to be... The quietest kid in the room, which now seems odd since I have written a monthly column for the past 15 years. From a fashion perspective, I was most likely to be wearing bright red hi-top Chucks and, when the weather was warm, plaid shorts and T-shirts. Perhaps it’s even odder that I now write for a fashion magazine. What might people be surprised to know about you? I’m a weather geek. I follow weather bloggers daily. I know the difference between a Norlun Trough and a closed-off low, and I wish New York resided in a snowbelt. My wife, who grew up in the Michigan snowbelt, and my daughter, think I’m nuts. But when it comes to wanting to know what to wear each morning, who do they turn to first? You might say that my fashion expertise is mostly weather related. Fashion icon: Kate Moss. Coveted dinner guest: Bono. Motto: Hang in there. I could go on, but maybe that’s best-saved for the blogosphere. Time to ask the questions again. Greg Dutter Editorial Director

THIS JUST IN

HAMPTONS CHIC Casual sandals top the packing lists of city dwellers summering in the Hamptons. By Dorothy Hong

14 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ july 2011

SPECIAL REPORT

Shopping Goes Social

FACEBOOK IS POISED TO BECOME A BOOMING ONLINE MARKETPLACE. FOLLOW THESE TOP TIPS FROM SOCIAL-MARKETING PROS TO SET UP SHOP AND START CASHING IN. BY AUDREY GOODSON

FACEBOOK ISN’T JUST for finding old high school flames and playing Farmville anymore—for a growing number of users, the ubiquitous social network is the latest place to find shoes and apparel. Even behemoth brands like Coca-Cola, Starbucks, Disney and Amazon have recently started selling their wares on Facebook. For footwear retailers, the growing popularity of the new social commerce marketplace can be a golden opportunity to boost sales and find new customers. But setting up a successful Facebook storefront can be as complicated as building a brick-and-mortar outlet. So what’s the appeal? For many merchants, it’s the chance to go viral when one person shares a favorite product with friends and the recommendation is passed along within a social network. Since the average Facebook user has 130 friends, the opportunity to recruit new customers is exponential. Interested in setting up shop on Facebook? Here are some tips on how to get up and running:

Hey,

sneakerheads: Check out these sick hi-tops!

1. PICK YOUR PLATFORM Just as social shopping has increased, so have the number of platforms that support Facebook commerce. Currently, retailers must use an application to upload a storefront on Facebook, but the options are becoming surprisingly sophisticated. For example, platforms like Payvment and 8thBridge allow shoppers to complete a purchase without leaving Facebook, as opposed to storefronts that direct shoppers to another e-commerce platform to complete the transaction (usually on a company website). “It’s just easier because people don’t want to be directed off Facebook,” says Joelle Musante, senior vice president at Payvment. “They’re there for 2.5 hours a day, so if you try to direct them off

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

These sandals are so sexy.

I bought these

cute rain boots for my daughter!

These

platforms

make me taller than my boyfriend.

Facebook, they’re going to go right back,” Musante says, comparing the notion to selling a car. “If you have them on the lot and they’re ready to buy, are you going to send them down the street to close the deal, or are you going to close the deal while they have their wallet open?” But for some footwear brands, like new company Wassookeag Moccasins, it’s more convenient to use a site like Big Commerce that allows merchants to fuse their Facebook store with their e-commerce site. “It was super easy,” says owner and designer Mark Wintle. “I had a Facebook page that I had built prior to integrating it with BigCommerce. It was just a few clicks of the mouse, and, boom, I had my entire web store sitting there on Facebook.” 2. STAY SOCIALLY SAVVY While social commerce may be catching on with buyers, the vast ma-

jority of Facebook users log on to the site to keep up with friends—and experts say blatant product pitches are often the fastest way to turn off potential shoppers. “My first recommendation is to build a relationship [with the customer],” suggests Lora Cecere, an analyst at Altimeter Group, a technology consulting firm. “The social has to precede the transaction. There has to be a reason for them to come and visit your page.” Using your Facebook wall to post information and foster discussion is key to building trust and maintaining a good rapport with your existing customers and finding new ones, says Musante at Payvment. “You have to own your category and be the go-to for information,” she says. “Then, when they’re ready to make a purchase, they’re going to go to you because they trust you.” “Stay involved with your fans,” advises Darin Hager, owner and designer of sneaker brand Heyday Footwear. “Update your wall daily and put up photos or videos,” he recommends, noting that he’s helped build his brand—and a loyal client base—by keeping in touch with his customers. “We communicate directly with the fans. We respond to every comment, and we ask a lot of questions with the new question feature,” he notes. Another way to drive traffic to your Facebook store is to offer deals, promotions and special offers, but marketing pros agree they should be used sparingly. “I don’t really do offers and promotions on Facebook,” Hager says. “There are enough promotions floating around on the web.” Justin Kistner, senior manager of social media marketing at web analytics firm Webtrends, suggests the following rule of thumb: “One out of 10 wall posts can be an offer, but the other nine should be community discussion related.” Self-promotional updates and links to blog posts and Twitter will simply drive visitors away and alienate your fans, Kistner explains. “That’s not the type of interaction people go to Facebook for,” he adds. “People want to talk more about their personal lives, opinions and feelings, and they want interactive discussions—not oneway information.” Even product posts should spark conversation, says Mitchell Harper, co-founder and chief technology officer at BigCommerce. “Popular items should be posted on Facebook, but don’t just link to your product pages. Create useful videos and blog posts—content that your fans will find interesting,” he suggests. And while frequent updates will keep fans and visitors coming to your page for more, Hager recommends restraint: “You don’t want to spam people. If they’re fans of your Facebook site, then they know about you already. You don’t need to oversell somebody who is already there.” 3. SET UP SHOP “Definitely try and create a unique shopping experience within Facebook,” says John Underwood, chief operating officer of Adgregate, a web technology company that offers Facebook commerce services to retailers. “Don’t just replicate your website. List Facebook-only merchandise, or first looks or special offers. Make it unique so the sales channel can stand on its own and complement the existing website.” Wintle at Wassookeag only lists his featured and new items, saving his customers time spent flipping through pages and pages of products and making them more likely to buy. “Facebook is only going to post so many of your products, so keep the products you’re most interested in selling in your featured items [page or tab],” he advises. “That way the stuff you really want to get there out in front of folks is on Facebook.” Kistner at Webtrends suggests beginning with top sellers and items that have “high sociability”—products that people are excited to share with friends. “Facebook is like The Jersey Shore of the social media world,” he explains. “The things that we’re interested in are less about

heady, in-depth topics and more about light, fun things. A lot of the things we buy are statements about our identity and that’s the things we like to talk about. They translate really well into the social commerce space.” Brands like Nine West seem to be following this advice—in lieu of listing its entire collection, Nine West sells jewelry and espadrilles on Facebook. These affordable, fun impulse purchases might actually be a perfect fit, since high price point items are often harder to sell on the site, Underwood notes. In addition to making your store unique, don’t forget to keep it spruced up, with clear photos and accurate product descriptions. Services like BigCommerce will automatically resize photos from your existing e-commerce site to fit Facebook, and Harper suggests that, “if you don’t have the time or budget to take photos, then ask your suppliers for their photos. Most times they will have high resolution photos you can use.” 4. TRY ADVERTISING Heyday had been on Facebook for two years when Hager decided to jumpstart the brand’s growth on the site by purchasing targeted Facebook ads. “I had one ad that took followers to our fan page,” he explains. “The week I did that we grew by about 2,000 followers. We had 2,200 followers a month ago, and now we have 5,200.” And although the ads take customers to the brand’s fan page instead of the store, Hager says he’s “seen a lot of conversion” to sales. “I would recommend implementing the ‘like’ button on your existing e-commerce platform, and using the resulting fans to start cranking out targeted ads to those folks and their friends,” Kistner suggests. Hager employs a similar strategy for Heyday: “We have a lot of brand ambassadors that are celebrities, musicians and athletes, so we target them and their fans.” Heyday wearer and rapper Jay Sean is one of the artists Hager’s used to find fans and potential shoppers. “Not only do we target Jay Sean fans, we target his fans’ groups on Facebook, too,” he explains. “You just have to see what works.” Hager also recommends frequently shuffling the look of your ads. “Facebook ads really only have a shelf life of a couple days to a couple weeks, so you have to constantly change them and freshen them up.” 5. GET A HEAD START While the buzz for social shopping may be building, the marketplace definitely won’t be unseating traditional e-commerce or brick-andmortar locations anytime soon. According to a two-year study by Forrester Research and Shop.org, “social networks fail to drive meaningful revenue for eBusiness professionals in retail, have a questionable return on investment and are generally ineffective as customer acquisition tools,” says Sucharita Mulpuru, the study’s author. Yet Cecere notes that Facebook commerce may be reaching its tipping point: in a recent Altimeter Group survey 86 percent of 123 top retailers and manufacturers plan to have a social commerce strategy in place by the end of 2011. Mulpuru found in her study that Facebook commerce is ideal for small brands looking to establish an online presence as well as local businesses—a fitting description of many footwear retailers. Not to mention, sales may not be brisk on Facebook at the moment, but setting up a Facebook shop now is one way to edge out the competition in a relatively untapped area. “Selling online is cheaper, faster and easier than setting up a brick-and-mortar store, and billions of dollars are spent online every week, so the longer you wait the smaller your piece of the pie will be,” Harper notes. •

july 2011 • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

REVOLUTIONARY TIMES

O&A

Angel Martinez, chairman and CEO of Deckers Outdoor, on the company’s evolving portfolio and its place in the revolutionary worlds of social media, sourcing and emerging brands. By Greg Dutter

WHEN YOU ARE at the helm of one of the fastest growing footwear companies that is spearheaded by the industry’s most in-demand brand (Ugg) for more than a decade running, one might think the lion’s share of attention for Deckers Outdoor CEO Angel Martinez would be focused on that brand. It’d be easy to get caught up in Ugg’s quarter after quarter of record sales growth. It’s the industry darling. The one that never seems to stumble. Ugg is the brand most any executive would like to hang his or her hat on. But what makes Martinez a successful veteran of running footwear companies is his innate ability to see what the potential next big brand will be, which is backed by his proven track record of success with executive stints at Reebok, Rockport and Keen before arriving at Deckers Outdoor six years ago. Sure, Martinez is deeply involved in Ugg as it continues rapid evolution into a full-on lifestyle brand, but he is also focused on the emerging brands in the Deckers portfolio—Tsubo, Ahnu and the recently acquired Sanuk—making sure the brands have the tools and support necessary to make them the next potential Ugg. “Emerging brands are important in terms of what they do for our ongoing quest for innovation and our ability to bring fresh designs into the market,” Martinez says. “These are unencumbered ideas that are not hindered by the need to do volume right out of the box.” For example, Martinez says if an emerging brand has a sell-in of 5,000 pairs on a new style, that’d be fantastic. In contrast, “If we were to sell 5,000 pairs of something by Ugg, then that’s not so great. And if Nike sold 5,000 pairs of anything, that’d be a disaster—unless it’s shot putting shoes.” Track and field sports aside, Martinez believes emerging brands have long been the lifeblood of the footwear industry. “The energy in our industry has always come from the smaller brands,” he notes. “They are the ones who have historically introduced new concepts that get consumers excited and then the larger brands follow with their version. It creates momentum in the market.” What’s more, Martinez believes emerging brands could be the basis of localized factories in the U.S., where making 2,000 pairs a day could be a profitable enterprise. “The ability to produce innovative new product in a much closer to market sourcing strategy could be more financially feasible for small brands that are stretched anyway for resources,” he offers. The fact is Martinez is already looking beyond China as the be-all sourcing partner. The writing is on the wall, he believes, and anyone who thinks it isn’t is either clueless or in denial. “Make no mistake about it: This is a revolutionary period in the footwear industry,” he maintains. “The 18 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

old model of designing product wherever and then making it in China is changing radically.” Ever the entrepreneur, Martinez sees growth opportunities in the oncoming sourcing revolution. They include the creation of new, labor-efficient manufacturing technologies; diversification of sourcing partners that will no longer put the industry at the mercy of one country’s hiccups; and, perhaps most importantly, the possible return of manufacturing jobs to the U.S. “We are going to see production and sourcing in a multitude of countries given China’s increases in labor costs and extension of supply chains with factories moving into the middle of that country. That favors alternative places,” Martinez says, pointing to Latin America, Brazil and Eastern Europe as other possible sourcing destinations. “I think five years from now the landscape for production will look quite different than it does today.” The sourcing shakeup bodes well for emerging brands. Right now, it’s

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O&A difficult for such brands to even get on line in Chinese factories. And it’s only getting worse as China’s domestic demand intensifies. “Factories are stretched for space, and the last thing I would do is give up Ugg production for Tsubo,” Martinez admits. A silver lining to this impending sourcing shakeup, Martinez believes, is that the return of manufacturing jobs could help reintroduce the art of craftsmanship in America. “It’s good to make some things with our hands,” Martinez says, adding that not everyone wants to sit at a computer screen or work in a McDonald’s. “It doesn’t matter if it’s a cabinet or a shoe. When it’s genuine, there’s something really special about that whole craft process.” Specifically, footwear manufacturing involves a lot of production and design aspects, not to mention the fact that it has almost universal appeal. “Footwear is a great place to re-build craftsmanship skills,” Martinez says. In the meantime, Martinez remains focused on making sure all of Deckers’ brands continue to deliver on their respective promises—be it providing the comfort and style of Ugg or Tsubo or battling rapids in a pair of technical Teva watersport shoes to chilling on the beach in Sanuk flip-flops or hitting a local park in stylish trail shoes by Ahnu. The existing portfolio is diverse yet there are performance and style synergies that can be easily passed from one brand to the next. Similarly, Martinez says Deckers’ deepening human talent pool offers opportunities for personal growth within the company as opposed to having to look elsewhere. Deckers has the current make-up of a happy, healthy and growing family, and it is Martinez’s main responsibility to keep it that way. In fact, after 30-plus years toiling away in this business, Martinez has come to an epiphany: “I’ve finally figured out my most important responsibilities, which involve two jobs and neither of them can be delegated,” he says. “First is vision and second is culture. While they are very different, they cannot be separated if you want to run a company successfully.” Martinez says vision involves creating the big picture and planning where Deckers is headed next. “It’s my job to drive that vision: protect it, course correct when necessary, open up paths and celebrate when we can,” he says. The culture aspect is about how Deckers

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

works toward that vision. “It’s my job to create an environment globally in which our vision can thrive,” he says, noting it’s a corporate culture that has been formalized into a mission called the Deckers Way. “It’s a group of tenets that guide how we work and how we work with others. We

OFF THE CUFF What are you reading? The Information by James Gleick. I recommend it for anyone interested in understanding how the social media revolution is having huge implications in how we process information: its use, to what values we ascribe and how effective it will be. What is inspiring you right now? Um, not a lot. I’m in a bit of an inspirational doldrum right now. Who would be your coveted dinner guests? Willie Mays, Hank Aaron and Neil Armstrong— unadulterated, steroidfree heroes. I think we are all looking for people that are honest, have integrity

and do what they say in a spectacular way. To Facebook or not to Facebook? To Facebook. I don’t write letters anymore and I get too many e-mails. Facebook offers that voyeuristic opportunity to see what all your friends are up to without having to communicate directly. What one word best describes you? Persistent. Who would you want to be for a day? The benevolent dictator of California. I would like a shot at trying to fix things, and I’m arrogant enough to believe that I have some answers.

start with family and end with community.” In between are trust, humility, cooperation and collaboration, accountability, continuous improvement, customer focus, fun, exceptional service, innovation, and celebration. “I have to live these tenets if I expect to uphold our culture, and that’s what I strive to do every day,” Martinez says. The last time we spoke, you suggested President Obama should be the best one-term president possible so he could do what is right instead of caving in to special interests. Did he follow your wishes? Not really. I think if he wielded more courage and took forceful action as well as exhibited a will-

ingness to take risks, it would have paid tremendous dividends with American voters. Obama can rattle off the things he’s done, but the frank reality is that most people’s lives are not better off than they were four years ago. Do you see any viable alternatives? The system would have to change radically for someone to be able to make an impact. We need someone who could effectively work toward the best interests of all Americans and not just the special interests. Are you still an optimist despite it all? Every entrepreneur is an optimist. It’s the nature of the beast. I’m also a pragmatist. I believe that it will eventually change when people get so fed up that there is no alternative but to change. We had a financial debacle, but the people who caused it seem to be better off than they ever were before. The ones who have been affected are the ones who have always suffered: the people in the middle and at the bottom. So until there is a crisis that is so intolerable and really hits everyone, we won’t change. We may not be better off as a nation, but would you say the footwear industry has recovered somewhat? Yes. Two things that do well in an economic downturn are footwear and alcohol. Both make you feel good pretty quickly. When you can’t afford the bigscreen TV or new car, a new pair of shoes is a great antidote. Even athletic has been on the rebound of late. People often dive into sports during tough economic times as a way to take their mind off of bigger problems. In what ways might an emerging brand like Ahnu, Sanuk or Tsubo be important to Deckers in this retail landscape? Breakthroughs come from emerging brands. I’m hard-pressed to think of a game-changing breakthrough that’s come from an established brand in recent years. Historically, however, our industry hasn’t been great at incubating emerging brands and giving them the time they need to achieve greatness. Why not? Unfortunately, larger brands often get stuck in

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their ways. They don’t become sources for new ideas. It can also be cost prohibitive for smaller brands to get their products made and then marketed to consumers. We’ve got to be careful that the small brands don’t get choked out of the process entirely. Specifically, what might these brands bring to Deckers? Our emerging brands can be the difference makers: They bring in fresh ideas and fresh talent, they remind us to focus on what the consumer wants versus what we think they want, and they keep us all from getting stale or believing our own good press too much. We can also take risks and experiment in ways that we can’t always do with more established brands. They can try new designs, materials, manufacturing or marketing ideas. Of course, emerging brands might also deliver immediate incremental sales, new retail accounts and broader distribution. But the real reason behind supporting emerging brands at Deckers is the constant energy they create and the potential for future game-changing products. We’re all essentially one item away from creating a $100 million revenue stream. That is, if we have the patience.

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Tell me about the re-launch of Ahnu. If you step back and look at the marketplace, there’s an intersection of outdoor fitness and metropolitan fashion, particularly among women. Many women don’t want to just go to the gym for their exercise anymore. That notion of going to a sterile fitness club is tired. They want to get outside and breathe real air and walk or run on a real trail. And they want access to those environments the best and quickest they can get to them, whether it’s in San Francisco or Philadelphia. New York’s Central Park is a perfect example and why it’s often filled with joggers and bikers. But what has been lacking for this customer is a sense of style, particularly a lack of color. Ahnu will fill that void from a performance and a style perspective. Certainly, all of the functional benefits needed for a light hike or trail run will be there, because that is just what we do. But Ahnu will also offer a level of style that will appeal to this type of consumer. To put it another way, Ahnu is the polar opposite of Keen. I really like what the brand is doing and the Spring ’12 collection is terrific. Is it a different customer than Teva? Definitely. The Teva customer is all about top performance and the product is built the way it is for the function. Ahnu’s product has the necessary functional needs, but this person is not at the base camp to Mt. Everest. Where is this person going to shop for Ahnu? At outdoor stores like R.E.I. as well as department stores. One of the things that many outdoor retailers haven’t fully grasped is that they are losing a lot of potential customers because much of the apparel and footwear they carry is not fashionable. If the outdoor industry is going to be really relevant, then they are going to have to be fashion relevant as well. That has simply not been the case in most outdoor stores over the years. I don’t understand why they believe consumers want to buy the same bulky shoes in the same earthy colors year after year. Everybody doesn’t want to buy a Jeep. They may want the functionality of what a Jeep provides, but they don’t all want the same model. They want to drive something that looks different. The same goes for outdoor footwear and apparel. How big is the potential Ahnu market? Ask your wife why she doesn’t wear outdoor shoes now. I bet the answer is because they look clunky. They don’t look cute. And who

20.06.11 15:24

www.ara-shoes.net buys 80 percent of the shoes in this country? Women. So how big of a market is it for Ahnu? Well, that seems like it’s pretty big. When the car companies figured out that women were making many of the purchases, they started designing SUVs that women wanted to buy and the sales went through the roof. So I believe the potential market for Ahnu is quite large. Does Sanuk have similar emerging brand attributes? Yes. When you think of Sanuk, you can’t help but smile. And that sense of fun is contagious. I’ve always believed you can tell everything about a brand simply by looking at it as an item in a store. You can tell if it’s authentic and whether if the shoe was made with love. It shows up in the product. In contrast, if it is of shoddy quality, consumers are intelligent and can see through that. Sanuk, on the other hand, is very clever and, more than anything, gives off a sense of fun. You get the sense that everybody involved with the brand is having a great time—from [founder and CEO Jeff Kelley] on down to the guys working in the warehouse. The brand is also very accessible. They’ve been good about price points being within reach and the brand continues to evolve in a way that feels inclusive to a broader audience. Sanuk is not about trying too hard or being too cool. It’s the perfect vacation shoe—and will be the ones I’ll be wearing on mine.

Sanuk has been approached for acquisition many times before, so how did the deal come about? Two ways. About three years ago, [Deckers Outdoor founder] Doug Otto’s brother, Rick, was designing for Sanuk. Doug told me that the brand was doing some pretty interesting stuff. So that’s how it first got on my radar. I then kept an eye on them and saw that they were getting real traction. In particular, they were getting more authentic in the action sports and surf markets. For example, when Sanuk went up against Reef, it performed extremely well. Eventually, we got to talking and learned that Sanuk had made a list of companies if they were going to be acquired, and that Deckers would be their top choice. It was flattering. After we met, the synergy between the two companies was incredible. We sort of see the world the same way. I don’t think we are very ‘corporate,’ even though we are a public company. Like Sanuk, we really have a passion for making footwear—it’s really all we do, for the most part. Sanuk didn’t want to be acquired by a company where footwear would be an afterthought. Has Sanuk scratched the surface of its full potential yet? They are about $50 million in annual sales at this point. They have a lot of room to grow and will evolve into more of a year-round business. Our goal is to give Sanuk gasoline to throw onto the fire. That’s what we can do for a brand with potential. We have the resources and distribution to make that happen. And Jeff will continue to be the visionary and creator and his marketing team, which is terrific, remains intact. I should also note that Sanuk has always run as an amazingly tight ship. Those guys like living under the radar and perhaps want people to think they are a bunch of surfer dudes, but the fact is they are anything but that. Overall, it’s a great partnership for both Deckers and Sanuk. On the other side of the spectrum, has Ugg reached its potential? We still have plenty of room to grow. While we look at Ugg from a revenue point of view, we also look at the total pairs sold to help us gauge potential. The current 10 million pairs sold isn’t a huge number as compared to some footwear brands and, certainly isn’t all that large taking into account the global opportunities we >53

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BARING IT ALL

The minimalist running category is red hot with emerging brands, fresh designs and new claims related to the concept’s approach to the age-old exercise of running. The latest market analysis and Spring ’12 products are sure to keep the buzz going. By Meagan Walker

LIKE THE EVER-PRESENT technology in our daily lives—tablet computers, smart phones, teeny speakers, i-this and i-that—the athletic market has long been a steady source of techy gadgets designed to enhance our lives. Whether it’s to prevent injuries, run faster or jump higher—all subject to debate as to their validity, of course— athletic footwear continues to be a long-running source of consumer curiosity and, more importantly, a multi-billion dollar annual revenue stream. Let’s face it: It’s not like there’s been anything much better for people to run, jump or walk in—unless you are of the belief the human foot is actually the ideal “shoe” for exercise, and what footwear retailer would admit that? But if going completely naked is not your cup of tea, then the industry’s latest technical revolution of mimicking the natural motion of barefoot running and walking via a minimalist shoe construction might be for you. Legions of hard-core runners, the wellness obsessed and the fashion-following masses are buying into the concept. Sales have been through the roof for category leader Vibram FiveFingers for several seasons, and traditional running brands like Brooks, New Balance and Saucony, as well as outdoor leader Merrell and its popular Barefoot offshoot, have entered the fray with their respective spins on minimalist shoes. The category has also spawned new brands, such as Somnio, Vivo Barefoot and Newton Running, which has reportedly received a $20 million investment from Reebok founder Paul Fireman. All these players are bullish about their current sales as well as future prospects. In fact, Merrell’s Barefoot Collection helped fuel a record first quarter for parent company Wolverine World Wide and it now ranks as one of the conglomerate’s most successful product launches in its history. In fact, some industry analysts say Merrell’s launch could have $100 million in annual sales potential. Experts say the minimalist running shoe craze has been ushered

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

in on the heels of an overall wellness movement that encompasses the mind, body and soul. For this consumer, less is more pretty much across the board and to be well is just as important as to be wealthy. “There’s a larger trend toward minimalism outside running,” says Meg Hammond, Merrell’s marketing manager. “We see people only buying food near where they live, downsizing their homes. More people are trying to get more out of what they do and what they have. Barefoot running fits into that.” Ironically, some have labeled minimalist footwear as “anti bells and whistles,” but one could just as easily argue that it is the latest in a long line of revolutionary technologies spawned by athletic footwear companies. The main premise of footwear designed to help you become fitter is the same, just that the construction and how you are supposed to run in them (forefoot strike first, not heel-to-toe) are 180-degree polar opposites. Nevertheless, retailers across the country confirm that sales are on the upswing and they only expect the pace to pick up in the coming seasons. “Our sales are up 20 percent over what we sold at the end of last year,” says Dave Borodzik, owner of Runner’s Roost in Orchard Park, NY. A shoe veteran of 32 years, Borodzik is a bit surprised with the surge in minimalist popularity. “We’re buying for next spring, and the manufacturers are pumping out minimalist shoes like crazy. Every company is on board.” Sales are “definitely up” as well at Maine Running Company in Brunswick, ME. Brandi Helstrom, part-time manager, says when Vibram FiveFingers first came out a few seasons back, the store was selling them like hot cakes. “Now, people are becoming more aware that becoming totally barefoot might not be realistic, so they’ll opt for a light flat,” he says, adding that minimalist category appears to have legs for the long run. “At first, a lot of people said it was going to be a fad, but now a lot of companies are starting to switch over. They’re changing the dynamics of their traditional designs to make >26

them more lightweight overall, or they’re incorporating a separate minimal shoe.” Does this mean the traditional running shoe will go the way of the dinosaur? Doubtful, most experts agree. Plenty of people still prefer the cushioning those shoes offer, and many running gurus still recommend that type of shoe. For many, it’s just better to stick with what has worked rather than experiment and cause a potential injury. Others say, why not both? A combination of the two constructions is a way to blend one’s running regimen. Retailers and brands often repeat the same message: Minimalist shoes are supplemental tools rather than the main event for most runners. “People are not so much converting but adding,” confirms Dan Legor, senior product manager for Ecco, makers of the BIOM natural motion running collection. “These shoes help improve their existing program.” Legor advises, “You don’t go from your existing running shoes straight into minimalist. There’s a transition period.” Merrell’s Hammond noticed the same: “Some do a day a week, some do a couple miles and then switch back to traditional running shoes. We’re encouraging people to find out what works for them.” While the category continues to evolve and grow from its original crop of triathletes and early adopters, Brooks’ product line manager Carson Caprara hesitates to name a particular age group or demographic as more likely to buy minimalist shoes. “It’s unique in that it’s being driven by both new and experienced runners,” Caprara says. “Young and old, men and women.” He notes that the common thread is a consumer looking to run in a new way—the more adventurous and experimental runners in the pack who are willing to try new things. For retailers pounding the sales floor day in and day out, a more defined customer picture is forming. “It’s more the adult runner,” says Borodzik. “Men and women, ages 30 to 50. It’s definitely not the high school kid. The minimalist customer is the end user rather than the guy who wants a fashion shoe.” These traits that define minimalist running customers are a stark contrast from the shaping and toning customer—the difference being that minimalist shoes are seen not just a means to an end or a quick diet fix. “These people are not looking for a magic pill or potion to make them fit,” says Patrick O’Malley, senior vice president of global product for Saucony. “They want to work out and are looking for footwear that will allow them to do the activity they love.” It’s a lifestyle choice more than a remedy and, therefore, is another reason experts believe the category will continue to grow. “You can see by the number of brands that the movement is definitely something the industry is supporting more holistically,” says Legor. “Everyone has a specific approach. It’s becoming a category, not just an offshoot.” Legor adds, “Two years ago the question was, ‘Is this a trend?’ Now it’s clear that it’s that next category and it’s a matter of how each brand interprets it.” •

Bare Facts Specialty running retailers sound off about how the minimalist running shoe boom continues to be a boon to their sales. —M.W. Dave Borodzik, owner of Runner’s Roost, Orchard Park, NY What are your leading styles? New Balance’s MT10 trail minimalist shoe. We’ve also seen a sales increase in Vibram FiveFingers. Do these purchases replace or supplement traditonal running shoes? It’s a supplement. Our approach to selling is that way, too: use the minimalist shoes for two days a week and your regular trainers for the rest of the time, so you break into it slowly.

Brandi Helstrom, part-time manager at Maine Running Company, Brunswick, ME What are your leading styles? Nike Free, Saucony Kinvara and the New Balance MR10. There are lots of trails around here, so people are looking to Merrell Barefoot for that as well. And a lot of people are buying FiveFingers just to walk around town in. Who is this customer? We actually have a really good mix between young and old, most between the ages of 20 and 50. Are you surprised by the category’s popularity? I’m not surprised because I actually have a friend that ran marathons in FiveFingers before it became popular. When something is legit, people are going to catch on. Like anything, it eventually comes around. Do these purchases replace or supplement traditonal running shoes? It’s an addition. You get a lot of long-distance runners who still like the cushioning aspect. Our customers use traditional trainers but include a light trainer a few days a week.

Mark Furlong, manager, Gord’s Running Store, Calgary, Alberta How are minimalist running sales? It definitely serves a purpose in the store. Women’s is probably up a tad this season, and men’s is up about 6 percent. What are your leading styles? The Minimus from New Balance—trail on the men’s side and road on the women’s. Who is this customer? Some people come in and have done their research, and then there’s the casual runner who’s read Born to Run (the popular book about the benefit of running completely barefoot) and was intrigued by the concept. Are you surprised by the category’s popularity? Not really. If you look at shoes in the ’60s and ’70s, they were more minimal back then. We’re just circling back, except now there’s better education in terms of how to break into minimalist running. Do these purchases replace or supplement traditonal running shoes? A very small percentage will make their barefoot pair their only running shoe. A lot depends on how long you’ve been running in your standard shoes. It’s a lot harder for people who have been running for 30, 40 years to transition, versus someone who’s brand new to running. It’s easier for them to change. Is minimalist a long-term trend? I think it’s going to stick around, but so will the standard shoes.

H H H H H C L A R K S H H

H Retail

All-Stars H

Meet the rising stars and future hall of famers of shoe retailing as determined by the Clarks Companies N.A. GEOFF

WENDELL

TERRY

Tops for Shoes Hendersonville, NV

Alec’s Shoes Nashua, NH

Burch’s Shoes Eugene, OR

READY

Geoff joined Tops for Shoes 24 years ago and has since racked up many sales accolades. He ranked the best out of 35 Tops for Shoes sales associates for two years straight. He also manages the buying for the men’s department, handling between 30 to 60 accounts a season. He analyzes computerized indices, competitive market intelligence and trend modeling for re-ordering and seasonal buying strategies. Geoff also steps in as store manager when needed.

MARY

WEBB

Nelson Leather Co. Eureka Springs, AR As manager of Nelson Leather, located in a tourist area in northwest Arkansas, Mary comes in contact with customers from all over the country. She is a huge ambassador for Clarks as the business has grown every year in the store. Recently, Clarks ran a promotional event in conjunction with the town’s annual blues festival. It was the store’s busiest weekend of the year and Mary was in high demand.

ALLEN

PALMER

Terry joined Burch’s 27 years ago in the stock room as temporary help. He was quickly promoted to the selling floor and has since risen through the ranks, becoming men’s manager, assistant store manager and manager. Now as operations manager, Terry heads the buying teams for men’s and women’s. He has also mentored his staff in the Joe Salzano basics: seat, greet, measure both feet and bring out multiple pairs. He provides top customer service and sets the standard for his staff. Burch’s has scored 17 straight years of double-digit sales gains.

Wendell plays multiple roles at this large family shoe store. He treats each customer like they are long-term friends, special orders products and is extremely knowledgeable regarding shoe technology and construction. He is also the women’s buyer and opens and closes the store. Wendell has been working at Alec’s for 35 years.

RON

MICHELE

VIVIAN

Saxon Shoes Richmond, VA

Todd’s Shoe Store Davenport, IA

Karavel Shoes Austin, TX

LYLES

About a year ago, Ron joined Saxon’s part-time after his previous employer went out of business. He quickly proved himself, became full-time and was recently promoted to men’s department manager and buyer. He has taken Clarks to a new level by increasing the assortment and presence on the floor as well as creating model stock programs. In 2010, Clarks was the top men’s brand at Saxon’s.

BURBACH Michele is polite, helpful, driven and has as much product knowledge as anyone at the retail level. Customers drive miles to buy shoes from Michele and, if she happens to be at lunch, they will wait around for her to return. She has been selling shoes for more than 30 years, and her resolve to care for her customers has not diminished. If someone deserves acknowledgement for dedication to the craft of shoe retailing, it’s Michele.

JOHNSON A former shoe store owner, Vivian is a selling machine, racking up $800K in sales per year. She is the quintessential sales lady, often working by appointment, and her customers are willing to wait for her to service their specific footwear needs. Vivian will not let a customer leave without getting her undivided attention and knowledgeable service. She also oversees the buying with the help of her daughter, Heather.

PAULINE

DAWN

World Class Miami, FL

Be Shoes Winston-Salem, NC

PRASAD

Pauline is a very good manager and is always on the floor and eager to sell. Clarks’ business has grown significantly because she is so dedicated and positive. She always drives business and is asked for by name. She also assists the buyer on making decisions.

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

GLIDEWELL

Dawn does it all as store manager, sales associate and buyer. Many customers ask for her by name because she is always pleasant and professional with an infectious smile. She sets the standard for the staff’s overall work ethic and attitude. Dawn never sells shoes that she wouldn’t wear herself.

TEAM MANAGER

Joe knows what it takes to be an All Star shoe retailer, having been one himself for 30 years with Altier Shoes in upstate New York. He started out as a stock clerk and advanced to vice president of store operations. After a stint as a college instructor, Joe came back to the shoe business as director of retail and training operations for The Rockport Company. Since moving to Clarks nearly 18 years ago, Joe has helped the company’s portfolio dominate the comfort category. Joe shows no signs of slowing down, entering his 53rd year in shoe industry.

JOE

SALZANO

Vice President of Wholesale Sales Clarks Companies, N.A.

RENEE

ERICA

MARIO

Reyers Sharon, PA

Benjamin Lovell Shoes Austin, TX

Shoe Fitters Austin, TX

FRANEK

REGA

Renee is relentless in her efforts to sell Clarks and has built the brand to top-tier status at the “World’s Largest Shoe Store.” Clarks’ brands occupy prime display space and are the focal point of the customers’ attention. Renee has consistently achieved increased sales by asserting her keen eye during the initial seasonal buys and enhancing margins with shrewd attention to opportunity buys in-season. In addition, she excites the sales team with various in-store Clarks promotions, encouraging the staff each season with creative incentives. In addition, Renee is in touch with customers, spending much of her time on the selling floor.

GOLDIE

FOX

Bennie’s Shoes Atlanta, GA Goldie is the top guy at Bennie’s, Clarks’ top-selling men’s store in Alabama and Georgia. In addition to his excellent selling skills, Goldie also manages the store and handles displays, reorders and contests. Moreover, he flat-out can sell. If there is a better salesperson in the south, Clarks’ executives have yet to meet the person.

Erica has been an amazing full-time employee for the past two years. A big fan of Clarks Originals, Erica sells what she likes wearing, and you’ll often see her on the sales floor in her Wallabees. In general, Erica is a big fan of Clarks’ classic, traditional, clean styling. She has a lot of confidence in the brand. This past season, in particular, she cites the Wavewheel as “the easiest shoe to sell ever because it looks like a cool sneaker and feels amazing.”

SOLORA

Mario entered the shoe business at J.C. Penney in his hometown of Eagle Pass, TX, in 1981. From there, he managed stores with Endicott Johnson and CR Anthonys, before moving to Austin where he first got into children’s shoe retailing at Foley’s. He has been taking care of adults in Austin since 1992, first with The Fitting Stool and now with Shoe Fitters. Mario has an infectious, positive attitude that he brings to the selling floor every day. All throughout his career, Mario has been an integral part in helping develop stores into leaders in their categories.

KRISTI

MARIA

PAUL

J. Stephens Tucson, AZ

Stan’s Fit Your Feet Glendale, WI

Schuler Shoes St. Paul, MN

CATON For the past 10 years at J. Stephens, Kristi has built the store into one of the most profitable in the chain. Along the way, she has helped make Clarks the No. 1 selling brand as well. She is committed to excellent service to her customers as well as treatment of her staff. She has one of the lowest turnover rates for employees at J. Stephens.

HARRY

FIGUEROA

VIALL

BARBER

Maria, a former professional basketball player, has been with Stan’s for more than two years and has been the top salesperson during that time. She had no prior retail experience, but her pleasant personality and willingness to accept new challenges more than makes up for that. Her follow-through is second to none. Maria is a team player and natural leader.

Paul has been with Schuler’s for three years and has ranked in the top three in sales every month. He joined the store as a way to augment the slumping real estate market. He is a huge champion of Clarks and studies the individual features of all the company’s collections. Paul knows how, why and when to sell a particular style to each customer.

ANGELA

Eneslow Comfort Shoes Brooklyn, NY

PETERSON

Harry began his retail career as a part-timer at Florsheim in New York. He eventually became a store manager, and his store always ranked in the top two of the region. After a stint at Trio in Brooklyn, he moved to Eneslow. Harry has always been the top sales performer—once even selling more shoes in a day than the rest of the staff combined.

As top sales person at Brown Shoe Fit, Angela exhibits professionalism on a daily basis. She is calm and helpful to all customers. In 10 years of selling, she has learned to sell her personality as much as the shoes. Angela now assists on buying decisons.

Brown Shoe Fit Longmont, CO

july 2011 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

TREND SPOTTING 3

4 1

7 5

Mr. Sandman

Designers dust off classic kicks with leather and preppy details. 1. J75 by Jump hi-top 2. Palladium linen hi-top 3. Deck sneaker by Timberland 4. Simple leather lace-up 5. Vans canvas sneaker 6. Boat shoe-inspired sneaker by Impulse 7. Fossil cap-toe loafer 8. Bass sneaker 9. Tretorn cream and plaid sneaker 10. Leather hi-top by Frye 30 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ july 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

EXPERIENCE OUTDOOR RETAILER

Summer Market Trade Show and Open Air Demo • August 3-7, 2011

OPEN AIR DEMO }}} Jordanelle State Park will welcome 2,000+ retailers! Get hands-on testing of the latest outdoor gear with plenty of water access, off-road trails, and shelters for eating, relaxing and getting out of the sun.

TRADE SHOW }}} Welcome to Summer Market 2011, where 1,000+ brands will connect with over 7,000 retail buyers. Salt Lake City will open its arms to 20,000+ industry professionals at the perfect Summer Market destination! For more information check out

OUTDOORRETAILER.COM

OPEN AIR DEMO • AUGUST 3, 2011 Jordanelle Reservoir, UT TRADE SHOW • AUGUST 4-7, 2011 Salt Lake City, UT

TREND SPOTTING

7 6

All About Eve Tempting styles show some skin. 1.Caressa pump 2. Vogue wedge 3. Cone-heel platform by Blonde Ambition 4. Auri cut-out spectator 5. Impo strappy sandal 6. Flat by Elizabeth Brady 7. Restricted wedge 8. Yellowbox T-strap wedge.

34 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ july 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

WORKING

CLASS Classic American work boots stomp into Spring ’12. 36

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANCY AND TARA CAMPBELL.

HarleyDavidson

Wolverine

Caterpillar

Justin Boots

Rocky

Georgia Boot

Timberland Pro

Tony Lama Ariat

FEMININE SILHOUETTES AND TRANQUIL HUES LEND A BREATH OF FRESH AIR TO SPRING ‘12 SNEAKERS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RUVAN WIJESOORIYA, STYLING BY MICHEL ONOFRIO

Sneaker by Pony. Anne Klein striped blouse; J. Crew pink T-shirt. 39

Dirty Laundry zipper sneaker. Opposite: Philip Simon hi-top. Oscar de la Renta dress; J. Crew tee; American Apparel socks; hat by Eric Javitz.

Vans printed slip-on. Opposite: crochet skimmer by Keds. BCBG striped shirt; Sylvia Heisel skirt.

Simple skimmer; lace-up by Palladium. Michael Kors dress; J. Crew T-shirt and hat; American Apparel socks. Opposite: Etnies skimmer.

Superga sneaker. J. Crew cream/pink striped long sleeve shirt Yves Saint Laurent pink sleeveless collared shirtMiu Miu yellow skirt American Apparel pink/turquoise/blue sock Opposite: Kâ&#x20AC;˘Swiss sneaker. Balenciaga T-shirt; striped skirt by Moschino; American Apparel socks; Agnes B. denim hat. Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Makeup: Tamah/K. See Management Hair: Benjamin Thigpen/Artists by Timothy Priano Models: Audrey/Muse

Pinkalicious Bubblegum shades add a pop of color for Spring ’12. From left: Lovely People cutout sandal; Klub Nico peep toe stiletto; woven oxford by Dirty Laundry; Blonde Ambition architectural wedge.

Designer Chat: Ron White

What’s new for spring? I was inspired by the ’70s. The shoes have a retro feel—like Sonny and Cher—with a lot of metallic, shades of burnt orange, chocolate brown and color blocking. You’ll see a mix of materials like chiffon, patent, silks and organza. I’m also using a cashmere printed suede that looks like crackle pottery, lizard and snake. 48 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

What are key silhouettes for the season? It’s important to have a range from elegant red carpet-ready dress sandals to more tailored peep-toes and slingbacks. There will also be a more aggressive grouping. It sounds like an oxymoron, coming from a luxury comfort brand, but I’m introducing my first spike heel.

convertible at a car show inspired a ballet flat. A retailer used the phrase ‘“tears of joy,” and I later looped thin pieces of leather into a chain link of teardrops on one of my sandals.

Who is the Signature Collection customer? She’s a socialite with disposable income. Even so, she wants to be able to wear her shoes to a gala or pair them with skinny jeans.

If you could dress anyone, who would it be? Oprah. She’s over 50 and wants to look stylish. But she has very particular needs for her feet. On her show, she was known for walking out in ultra-high heels, but would kick them off once she sat down. She was barefoot for part of her final show. I would want to solve that problem.

What inspires you? I keep notes in a file to keep track of all the things that inspire me from day to day. The seats of a vintage

Which footwear designer do you most admire? The original king of footwear, Roger Vivier. His designs were inventive and special.

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL.

KATE MIDDLETON’S WEDDING gown and the polka-dot dress worn by Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman—unforgettable fashion moments in pop culture—may sneak into designer Ron White’s creative consciousness, but like a true retailer, White allows his designs to be guided by the clientele he’s amassed since opening his first luxury comfort footwear store in 1993. “I’ve taken my customers’ wish-lists into consideration,” White says of his Spring ’12 Signature Collection, his year-old line of red carpet-worthy shoes. “They’ve asked for thinner and higher heels and have given me the confidence to really push further with my designs.” The Toronto-based designer has pushed the technology envelope too, incorporating 5.5 millimeters of Poron cushioning into every style and adding a Vibram outsole for the first time this season. With suggested retail prices between $550 and $850, White says he wants his customers to feel good about investing in a pair of comfortable and wearable shoes. —Angela Velasquez

August 2-4, 2011 Tuesday – Thursday Hilton New York Hotel & Member Showrooms

SAVE THE DATE November 30 – December 2, 2011 Wednesday – Friday Check out exhibiting brands and plan your appointments at

FFANY.ORG

Cocktail Party & Casino Night Saturday, August 13, 2011 | 6:00 - 9:00 pm COBB ENERGY PERFORMING ARTS CENTRE Round-trip shuttle service (two-minute ride) is available to and from the Cobb Energy Performing Arts Centre. Pick up and drop off at the East Parking Lot of the Cobb Galleria Centre. Featuring “JESSIE’S GIRLS” Complimentary to all attendees Elaborate buffet & one complimentary drink per person

Sunday, August 14, 2011 Breakfast 7:30 am Seminar from 8:00 - 9:00 am Renaissance Waverly Hotel Wilton Room Presented by Ellen Campuzano $10 per person and the $10 will be refunded the day of the seminar. Space is limited, so please register early. Make checks payable to: Southeastern Shoe Travelers. Registration Deadline: July 13, 2011.

ALL IS A

Flutter

$5 Hot Lunches served daily in the Gallery Room located in the Galleria Mall area across from Jocks & Jills. Eat in or take out.

THIS SEASON

A u g u s t 1 3 -1 5 , 2 0 1 1 C O B B G A L L E R I A C E N T R E & R E N A I S S A N C E WAV E R LY H OT E L

HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS Renaissance Waverly Hotel – $134 Please refer to The Atlanta Shoe Market. 888.391.8724 Embassy Suites Galleria – $109 single, $129 double. 770.984.9300 Atlanta Marriott Hotel NW – $95 single/double. 800.228.9290 Sheraton Suites – $98 single/double. 770.995.3900

AIRFARE SPECIAL RATE We have arranged a 10% discount on the lowest available AirTran Airways one-way fare. In order to receive this special rate, you must book your reservation by calling the EventSavers Desk at 866.683.8368. Please refer to: Event Code AMS11. Please call from 8:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. EST, Monday thru Friday.

CAR RENTAL To reserve a vehicle, call 800.rentacar or visit www.enterprise.com and refer to Corporate Account# 03CON15 Pin# ATL

AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICE FITZ RIDE Non-stop private car service between Renaissance Waverly Hotel/ Cobb Galleria Centre & Atlanta Hartsfield Jackson International Airport Must call for reservations; No time restrictions For reservations: By phone; 770-880-1757 / 888-348-9743, Ext. 709 By e-mail: fikmu@fitzride.com/fikmu@gmail.com Private car or SUV - $65 one way; Round Trip - $120

atlantashoemarket.com / 706.923.0580

A & M LIMO & GALLERIA DIRECT Non-stop van service between the Renaissance Waverly Hotel/ Cobb Galleria Centre and the Atlanta Hartsﬁeld-Jackson International Airport. Service from the airport every half hour from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Service to airport every hour from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. $30* one way (advance reservations only); $50* round trip (advance reservations only). For Reservations: By phone: 770-955-4565 (Mon.-Fri, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.); By email: www.aandmlimo.com Online: http://galleriadirect.net/reservations.asp *Prices subject to change

ATHLETIC COMFORT GREEN KIDS OUTDOOR WORK

Bare Inspiration Caterpillar Footwear expands its naturalmotion line for Spring ’12. AS THE MINIMALIST footwear running movement hits a feverish pace, the concept’s wellness and comfort attributes have caught the attention of those outside of the sports performance category. Namely, Caterpillar Footwear has incorporated some of the benefits of natural motion into its Flexion line, which is being expanded for Spring ’12. The tried-and-true, rough-and-tumble brand developed the Flexion technology to support the foot’s natural movement while providing the same levels of on-the-job protection its wearers require. Flexion, which originally debuted in Fall of ’10, has been Caterpillar’s most successful technology launch to date. “We’re taking what we’ve been learning about barefoot walking and transferring it to work boots,” says Kelly Ballou, marketing manager for the division of Wolverine World Wide. The Flexion technology is built on a contoured last that cradles the heel and uses the natural, padded area of the foot to soften the hardest of impacts. The technology combines both cement and stitch constructions, delivering boots that are durable, lightweight and flexible. Ballou says even the placement of the lugs has been carefully considered to flex around the metatarsal bones. And for Spring ’12, a Westerninspired pull-on called the Grist has been added to the mix, as well as another steel-toe hiker, the Actuator. Two more natural-motion styles have been added to the brand’s women’s segment—a shoe and a boot. Also on tap for Caterpillar this fall is a celebrity-backed collection of work boots endorsed by Mike Rowe, creator and executive producer of the Discovery Channel’s popular Dirty Jobs series. “The goal was to create a line of boots that withstands what Mike puts his boots through,” Ballou says. “There’s also an off-the-clock component that encapsulates Mike’s personal style.” The debut collection will retail between $100 and $130 and feature three work boots and two casual shoes initially. —Meagan Walker 56 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2011

White-Collar Prime Georgia Boot clocks in with a premium work collection. LOOK NO FURTHER than Levi’s “Go Forth” ads or Ugg’s rugged new men’s collection: blue-collar style is cool. Driven by a desire for authenticity, more and more men are sporting gritty, utilitarian footwear—even in white-collar workplaces. Inspired by the trend, the team at Georgia Boot, a division of Rocky Brands, knew it was the perfect time to design something the increasingly competitive men’s boot market was missing: a premium line offering both style and performance. Launching in Spring ’12, the brand’s Oakwood collection will feature a waterproof membrane, slip-resistant outsole and a hybrid construction offering both stability in the heel in flexibility and the forefoot—all the hallmarks of a traditional work shoe, but with triple-tanned, full-grain leather and a sleek lug-free construction that aims to entice workers and laymen alike. “It offers an opportunity for us to market to traditional shoe stores who may have an opportunity to sell work footwear,” explains Jared Oviatt, vice president of sales for Georgia Boot. “The collection is visually in line with the better brands that they carry, but offers all of the integrity of a traditional American work footwear line.” Despite the crossover appeal, Oviatt says Oakwood is primarily aimed at executives in fields where workers are required by law to wear safety-toed products but want footwear to match their khakis and sport coats. “They’ll work great on any sort of residential or commercial construction site and any sort of fabrication manufacturing or material handling environment,” he says of the collection, which retails for a suggested $165 to $205 and includes regular and steel-toed versions of an oxford, 6-inch boot and 8-inch boot. “They have a non-slip 360 degree tread pattern that makes it perfect for concrete, steel and hard surfaces where traction is important,” Oviatt adds, noting the boots will easily transition from the workroom to the boardroom thanks to a scratch-resistant leather that’s been tanned for special use in a harsh chemical environment. “The leather is some of the longest-lasting leather in the industry. It’s just very supple and beautiful and it cleans up easily.” It’s a pitch the brand sees appealing to new customers and loyal Georgia Boot buyers alike. “It offers them an opportunity to buy something from a brand they love that expands into a different part of their wardrobe or a different part of their life,” Oviatt says. —Audrey Goodson

continued from page 53 on those products that state, ‘Wear these in combination with walking five miles a day and eating right.’ If you say it’s going to happen and it doesn’t, well that’s snake oil. You’ve got to be careful making those types of claims, because it can come back negatively at your brand 10-fold. In general, are consumers as freaked out compared to a few years ago? I don’t think consumers are going to freak out any more than they already have. And Americans are not going to give up shopping, which makes them feel better. I think consumers have become resigned to the new reality. And the younger customer, to some extent, is now saying, “I’m never going to buy a house. Look what happened to my friend who did.” So they are going to rent, like many people do in Europe and Japan. That’s OK. Since they are not saving up to purchase a house, it enables them to buy all kinds of other stuff. We are seeing a shifting dynamic among a lot of consumers. What’s going to happen is a split: you either buy great brands or commodity products, and there will be little in-between. For example, if you are a private label brand in a department store, you better be at a commodity price or you don’t have a chance. And there is only room for X number of brands in a store. You can’t have too many brands, otherwise it gets too confusing. If you could tell retailers one thing, what would it be? The world is bifurcating into two categories: On the one hand there’s brands and on the other, there’s commodity. Focus on the brands, especially the emerging ones, because that’s where your next retail success story will be found. In addition, retailers will see success when they offer the consumer something that the brands themselves can’t offer, either in a brick-and-mortar or digital setting. Selection and service are the difference-makers for our retail partners and the method they use to cre-

ate loyalty from their customers. So I would advise retailers to create a relationship with your customer using every means available to you: inside your stores, where you can control selection and service, and your media, where you can illustrate your selection. And also make sure your social media programs allow you and your fans to talk about your selection and service, because brand loyalty is the one thing you can own that a commodity never will. Is our industry up to speed on the social media revolution? This social media revolution has a long way to go before we fully grasp what its influence and implications will be. Having said that, once you give that level of power to the consumer, there’s no taking it back. This will be a key part of any marketing equation going forward. We, as an industry, should be looking at ways to work together to understand this new medium. If we collectively figure some things out, we all would benefit. Right now, there’s a lot of clutter. But while the technology might be different and confusing, it all stems from the need for humans to communicate. It goes back to days of communicating by tom-tom drums. Social media is really no different. What do you love most about your job? Hands down, the people at Deckers are the best group of people that I’ve worked with in my career. Combining this team with the culture we’ve built here means that every day in the office is a good day, even when it’s a tough or challenging one. Pushing our vision, creating an environment for innovation, focusing on our emerging brands and experimenting—if I can accomplish a bit of that every day, it’s a good day. Vision and culture are my jobs and, in reality, I’m trying hard to become the dumbest guy in the room. When I reach that point, then I guess I’ll know my work here is done. •

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LAST WORD

THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT

A Blank Canvas Classic Vans’ styles serve as the source of design inspiration for students nationwide. By Meagan Walker

Foreground: Vans President Kevin Bailey and Hayden Pannettiere.

VANS’ DESIGNERS HAVE offered their innovative interpretations on the classic slipon for nearly 40 years, but a couple seasons ago they decided to turn the tables and look for some fresh perspectives in the form of a nationwide high school design competition. The company asked participants to treat Vans’ sneakers as a blank canvas and paint away. The results were so good, the company made the Custom Culture contest an annual event. This year’s finalists were flown to New York for a grand prize announcement at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, part of the Smithsonian Institution and the only museum in the country devoted to both contemporary and historical design. Up for grabs: a $50,000 donation to the winning school’s art program and a chance to make it into the company’s Spring ’12 collection. In keeping with Vans’ laidback SoCal roots, guests noshed on barbecue treats and mini ice cream cones set to a dynamite soundtrack of Jay-Z and The Knife, while hanging out with celebrity presenter Hayden Panettiere. Narrowed down from 400 entries to five by panelists and Vans’ fans, this year’s designs ranged from screaming heads and realistic animals to galatic and winged motifs. Contestants from one of the few chosen schools jetted from as far as Honolulu, HI, to await their fate, but at the end of the evening, Panettiere gushed that she was “floored” by the designs and handed the oversized check to Ward Melville High School in East Setauket, NY. At the event, Vans’ President Kevin Bailey shared a bit of his own art history, telling the audience that he decided to go to art school at the last minute—a choice his parents weren’t thrilled with. “You need to reach in deep and find that electricity,” Bailey says of his urge to creatively express himself through painting and photography. “I have to. It’s not a choice. I have moments that it has to get out of me.” •

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