Manhattan Magazine - Fall & Winter 2022

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on theFarm Meet the goats and discover the cheesemaking process at Holy Goat Creamery at Arch Angel Farm Unearth seasonal eating at Piccalilli Farm FALL/WINTER 2022 Fall & Winter EVENTS Former police officer offers access to mental health services U-pick pumpkin patches near you
TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT: 785-587-4345 FOR MENTAL HEALTH EMERGENCIES CALL OUR CRISIS SERVICES: 1-800-609-2002 RESPONDING TO NEEDS, BUILDING HEALTHY COMMUNITIES, RESTORING LIVES. PAWNEE.ORG Taking care of your mental health is taking care of yourself and those you love.

welcome.

FALL/WINTER 2022

EDITOR

Kalli Jo Smith

ART DIRECTOR/ DESIGNER

Alex Tatro

COPY EDITOR

Leslie Andres

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING Angie Taylor | (785) 832-7236 ataylor@sunflowerpub.com

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

David Mayes

Amy Meng Luke Townsend

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Evan McHenry Bethaney Phillips

Lucas Shivers

PUBLISHER

Bill Uhler

DIRECTOR

Bob Cucciniello

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CONTACT US

Manhattan Magazine

1503 SW 42nd St | Topeka, KS 66609 (800) 578-8748 | Fax (785) 843-1922

Or email comments to manhattanmagazine@sunflowerpub.com

Manhattan Magazine is a publication of Sunflower Publishing, a division of Ogden Publications, Inc. sunflowerpub.com

Welcome to the fall and winter 2022 edition of ManhattanMagazine

As the harvest season nears, cooler air moves in; the leaves transition to colorful shades of reds, oranges and pinks, while local farms gear up for one of the busiest seasons of the year. In honor of this change, we have highlighted those who have dirtied their hands so our tables can be filled as the winter months move in.

While we urge you to support local businesses in our community, we also touch on the importance of mental health in this issue. The winter months can be joyous, but they can also be isolating. Please reach out to those in this community for strength and seek mental health services if you feel you need those options. Some services in the area include the Manhattan Mental Health Services, Townsend Counseling Services, Katie’s Way, Cornerstone Counseling and more. To view a list of reliable services with links visit manhattanksprimarycare.com/bh

From all of us at ManhattanMagazine, may your fall and winter months be safe, happy and peaceful.

All the best, —KALLI, EDITOR

Piccalilli Farm owners Nat and Alison Bjerke-Harvey welcome the fall season with fresh produce featuring a farm-to-porch market.
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PICCALILLI

PUMPKIN PICKING

local

HOLY GOAT CREAMERY

ARCH ANGEL FARM

Meet the owner,

WINTER HAPPENINGS

Fall and

David Mayes

Abilene native David Mayes has worked in newsrooms across Kansas and California and has photographed the K-State and Manhattan community, both as the university’s official photographer and as an independent artist for many years. davidmayesphotography.com

Evan McHenry

Evan McHenry is a sophomore at Brown University and has recently completed an editorial internship with Sunflower Publishing. Though he is from Kansas, Evan had never been on a goat farm until he took the assignment for the feature story in this edition.

Amy Meng

Amy Meng embraced photography while fighting a rare disease and found that the art provided hope, beauty and respite. She continues to capture images and highlight everyday beauty as a professional Manhattan-based photographer.

Luke Townsend

Luke Townsend is an artist and photographer based in Kansas whose goal is to create impactful storytelling through exploration and education in a way that is visually engaging. He is represented by Zuma Press and contributes to TheWallStreetJournal, ABC News and more. He currently serves on the City of Manhattan Arts and Humanities Advisory Board.

Lucas Shivers

From his days in elementary school, Lucas Shivers has always loved stories. He finds joy in gardening, asking questions and sharing time with friends and family. He also appreciates biking and hiking in the spectacular Flint Hills.

Bethaney Phillips

Kansas native Bethaney Phillips has written professionally for 11 years. She specializes in lifestyle and history features. She writes for WeAretheMighty and has appeared in Task&Purpose,Business Alabama and Military.com.

a look inside. ON THE COVER Holy Goat Creamery at Arch Angel Farm—explore the farm, discover the cheese-making process, and meet the farm’s owner, Suzanne Bennett, who traded in her 29 years of experience as an OB/ GYN for life on the farm. Photo by David Mayes. on theFarm Meet the goats and discover the cheesemaking process at Holy Goat Creamery at Arch Angel Farm Unearth seasonal eating at Piccalilli Farm Fall & Winter EVENTS Former police officer offers access to mental health services U-pick pumpkin patches near you 06
FARM Local farm brings seasonal eating and farm-to-porch market to MHK 10 TYRONE TOWNSEND Former police officer uses past experiences to better his community 14
NEAR YOU Welcome the autumn season with a visit to your favorite
pumpkin patches 18
AT
visit the farm and discover the cheese-making process 28 FALL &
winter events are back contributors.
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783-272-1616 | www.interimhealthcare.com/topekaks WE CARE, WE’RE THERE The first choice of where to receive care is always HOME. HOME HEALTH • PRIVATE DUTY • STAFFING & HOSPICE CARE Topeka • Manhattan • Lawrence 785-320-7600 | www.interimhealthcare.com EVENTS | PARTIES | MEETINGS CATER WITH QDOBA TOPEKA | 1025 SW WANAMAKER RD LOCALLY OWNED AND OPERATED

Apiccalilli is an East Indian relish made of chopped vegetables, mustard, vinegar, and hot spices. But that’s not what you’ll find at your local Manhattan fruit and veggie farm.

The name doesn’t come from the dish itself but from its ingredients, which change with the season. Piccalilli adjusts based on the time of year—a motto that the farm’s owners wanted to instill in their customers. Not only do they want you to eat locally, they want you to eat what’s in season. Thus, Piccalilli was born.

In 2013, owners Nat and Alison Bjerke-Harvey purchased the farm and began working the land. As firstgeneration farmers, both maintained full-time jobs while they got their infrastructure up and running. Now, nearly a decade later, they’ve created their own niche in the area: farm-to-porch.

PICCALILLI FARM

Local farm brings seasonal eating and farm-to-porch market to MHK

When Covid-19 closed many businesses, Piccalilli took their website and pivoted. They allowed other vendors to sell on their site. And they’d deliver those items as well.

“We were dialing up our infrastructure pretty quickly with what turned out to be a pretty huge demand,” Nat says.

Nearly two years later, it’s a service they still offer. However, the pair says now more people prefer to pick up or shop in person. Either way, the duo explains, they want to be involved in helping feed others while encouraging them to eat seasonally.

“We’ve sort of worked ourselves in to a pretty functional niche, figuring out how to grow, expand, and explore where we’re going and still be involved in feeding our community,” Nat says.

Originally, they began growing veggies—they have 1.5

First-generation farmers Nat Bjerke-Harvey (left), and wife Alison, stand proudly with their daughter, Mary, on their self-made farm.

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With the ever-changing seasons, Nat and Alison’s produce line up changes every few months.

acres of “intensive” veggie growth, where plants are switched out and rotated by season.

“You have to think about it totally different than you would traditional row farming,” Nat notes. “Most are triple- if not quadruple-cropped. All will be re-planted multiple times.”

Next, they added hens and meat birds (including Thanksgiving turkeys), and then direct-to-consumer baked goods.

Starting at 7:00 each morning, the Bjerke-Harveys are up and working on their Manhattan farm. They start by milking the goats before their four full-time employees show up for the day. Then, depending on the day, there’s a list of work to be done: farming veggies, preparing baked goods, performing daily chores, feeding animals, all before finishing the day with another milking session.

The employees go home, but for Nat and Alison, the workday is far from over. They eat as a family, then get to work on the business side of things: marketing, book work, and more. On Wednesdays, Nat takes their 4-year-old daughter, Mary, to deliver produce to local restaurants. They provide organic veggies and more to some recognizable names in town, such as Bourbon & Baker, Tallgrass Brewery, Wine Dive, Little Apple Brewing Company, and formerly, Harry’s.

Seasonally, they explain, chores change. Holiday orders are cultivated in the winter, and vegetables change based on the time of year. For instance, tomatoes and eggplants are planted in the late spring or early summer, but when the weather starts to cool, salad greens, fall greens and other cool weather crops find their homes on the farm, Alison says. Though this time of year requires the most work, she says, it’s also a favorite due to the variety in produce.

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In any case, the work on the farm never stops. When fewer crops are available, Piccalilli offers seasonal items, such as winter baked goods or holiday baskets for gifts or to enjoy at home.

But what sets them apart is how they farm, and how those techniques are incorporated into their everyday lives. Everything is organic while birds are rotated regularly to increase diet variety and keep pastures up.

The Bjerke-Harvey family also eats what they grow and cooks seasonally, using what’s available and preserving any extra. It’s a lifestyle they’ve created for themselves— and one they want to teach their customers.

“A lot of our outreach, message and mission are to focus on seasonal eating. Helping to encourage people to see how interesting and fulfilling it can be and how it helps to drive local food and agri-economy,” Alison says. “We’re both very interested in tracing the food chain back to how things start, raw ingredients, how the quality of them can make eating them a lot more fun. It drives a lot of what we do.”

This is a message they promote through veggies they produce, as well as with prepared foods. Alison makes their baked items from scratch, from products from their farm and other seasonal goods. They sell savory pies, handheld items with veggies, scones featuring local fruits and more.

Baked goods are also made with locally sourced items. All of their flour is grown and milled in Kansas, as is their cornmeal, legumes, cooking oil, and dairy.

“Supporting as many local food producers and bolstering the local and regional food economy is paramount to our mission, and, if we don’t grow it ourselves, we find a local or regional producer we can source our ingredients from,” Alison says. “We ask people to shop local from us and see the value in that— we do the same when sourcing our ingredients.”

GLAZED HAKUREI TURNIPS

This recipe takes the natural sweetness of these little beauties and elevates them with browning and maple syrup. This whole recipe can be cooked on stovetop—just add a bit of water to start and cook covered.

• 2 bunches turnips, trimmed to even size, greens reserved

• 3 tablespoons butter

• ¼ cup maple syrup

• 1 big pinch of salt

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees, melt butter in a saucepan, and trim the turnips (no need to peel).

2. Toss turnips, butter, and salt together. Place on a lined sheet pan, and slide into the oven for 20 to 30 minutes (keep a close watch). The turnips should yield to a knife inserted with just a little resistance.

3. Pull the pan out, turn the oven up to 450 degrees, pour in the syrup, shake it all around so the turnips are coated and then put the pan back into the oven. (Optional: add greens.)

4. In about 5 to 10 minutes, the turnips should be glazed nicely. You’ll need to monitor this step with just a little vigilance as the syrup can burn.

The Bjerke-Harvey family’s policy is to “eat what they grow,” which includes offering many of their homemade recipes for customers shopping their local produce.

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Piccalilli Farm features a farm-to-porch delivery option for customers needing assistance and access to freshly grown, local produce.

FARM-TO-PORCH: HOW IT WORKS

Shop from Piccalilli Farms in person at the Manhattan Farmers Market, or order online. Ordering is open Tuesdays starting at 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. on Wednesdays. Ordering options include their fresh fruits, veggies and baked goods, as well as vendor items, such as handmade and cooked goods from other local farmers and crafters.

Pickup is available for preorders Saturday at the Farmers Market, 9 a.m.–1 p.m., or have your items delivered to your porch on Saturday with farm-toporch delivery—available in the Manhattan and Wamego areas.

Customers can also find them at the MHK Saturday Markets from April through Christmas, then every other Saturday, January–March.

Putting service consistently above self, Tyrone Townsend models practical ways to help others with his new practice known as Townsend Counseling Services, Healing and Wellness.

As a licensed professional counselor, he specializes in helping individuals, couples and families.

“Through years of experience, I’m confident that no problem is too great to overcome,” Townsend says. “Helping people is what I look forward to every day.”

TYRONE TOWNSEND

Former police officer uses past experiences to better his community

Townsend grew up in Kansas City, Kansas, with a single mom and trauma from losing his father, who was killed by police in 1990.

After earning his high school diploma, he went to Fort Scott Community College to play football, then to Emporia State University. At Emporia State he met his future wife, Molly, who was on the track team.

“Even in college, I had mixed emotions on what I wanted to do for a career,” Townsend says. “So, I went into

After past traumas, Townsend (pictured) turned his experiences into strengths to reach those in the community needing help.

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Townsend is currently seeking additional education in a graduate school for a post-masters, educational specialist degree at the University of Central Missouri at the Lee Summit, Missouri, campus.

the Army, and things got a little clearer that I wanted to be in a uniform to help people.”

After getting out of the military and seeking opportunities at Riley County Police Department (RCPD), Tyrone and Molly got married in her hometown of Washington, Kansas.

“She’s my ride or die,” Townsend says. “We decided to live in Manhattan as a middle ground between the small town of Washington and the big city of Kansas City. I got on as a police officer at RCPD, and she’s teaching at Wamego in grade five at West Elementary.”

Living off Green Valley, the couple loves being nestled between Manhattan and Wamego.

“It’s awesome to live here because it’s so family friendly,” Townsend says. “We feel welcomed and invited. We love the parks and rich diversity from military-connected and university folks to explore various backgrounds.”

They currently have two kids, Harrison, age six, who loves football, baseball and basketball, and Sophia, age two, who loves to color and paint on big white sheets of paper taped into the deck glass doors and cook in her toy kitchen.

“My family put up with lots of working nights and weekends, but now I’m eager to build my practice around more balanced schedules to support everyone,” he says.

The transition to counseling Townsend served in a special role at RCPD called a School Resource Officer (SRO) from 2017 to 2019 where he was stationed at Manhattan High School.

“A lot of kids came to me and wanted help,” Townsend says. “I had the empathy and motivation to help, but I didn’t have any clinical tools or intervention strategies.”

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To meet these demands, Townsend started his master’s degree online from Northwestern University with professors in Chicago who led live-streaming classes from 6 to 9 p.m. two nights a week.

“It kick-started me to learn so much more about mental health and counseling,” Townsend says. “Thanks to these classes, I knew about Zoom before the pandemic. I thank my wife for her patience and putting up with me doing class and working full time.”

Initially, Townsend just wanted to be able to incorporate his new set of skills into dayto-day life as police officer.

“I’d be on the streets and then, boom, I’d be able to deal with mental health crises like panic attacks with grief and loss, which I did, but I wasn’t able to do it all, so I branched out to do counseling full time.”

Transitioning away from RCPD in early 2022, he now focuses fully on his counseling practice. He reflected on his time as SRO to set the stage for the current work.

“As an SRO, it was awesome to keep everyone safe and be a model for kids and staff to support and enforce laws,” Townsend says. “My dad was killed by a police officer, so I didn’t like the police early on. I had so many lost memories. But with that experience, I wanted to be approachable as an officer because I knew at the end of the day, trust was everything to have space to approach me.”

Using youth-friendly communication channels, Townsend operated on social media and Snapchat to support students in positive ways.

“I would be able to help and build trust,”

Townsend says. “It was so rewarding to build connections, and I still have students who reach out to me all the time. I’ve written so many references for jobs and scholarships. Who does that? I was in the situation to be authentic and make an impact.”

Creating a safe space for others

Townsend’s vision with counseling is to support and guide people toward positive changes and see them getting the life they desire.

“As a Black man first, I wanted to do things for others, to be a model for education, success and give access to mental health,” Townsend says. “It’s so important for folks to see people of color be motivated to seek help. If it’s safe for me, it can be for others too. I can help others get help and get into the profession.”

Townsend’s cultural competencies focus his work with veterans, first responders, fathers, people of color and many more.

“It’s hard for men to find support around issues of being a better father, finances and work life,” Townsend says. “I want to have people to look across the table and know what others are going through.”

Townsend also says he enjoys getting out to talk with folks in the community on the importance of resources like Employee Assistance Programs (EAPs) and lower incomes with sliding scales for easier payment plans.

“My vision is to work with more partners like community corrections for anger management for school violence or other ways to better share skills and ways to make changes to get to deeper issues to support healing from depression or anxiety.”

Townsend is currently back in graduate school for a post-masters, educational specialist degree at the University of Central Missouri at the Lee Summit, Missouri, campus. Townsend takes classes there twice a month.

“It’s great to be challenged by other clinicians,” he says. “With me running my own practice, it’s so helpful to have others who are leading their organizations with the business side of things with needs assessments, recruitment and retention to be a strong advocate and leader in mental health. This is all about macro-level to influence other stakeholders to create policies and programs to help our community and people get some extra support.”

To connect with Townsend and learn more about the services he offers, visit townsendcounselingmhk.com.

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Harnessing a goal to provide better accessibility to mental health services, Townsend offers tips to those looking for a starting point.

SELF-CARE PRACTICES WITH TYRONE TOWNSEND

Our journeys are unique. With that in mind, here are some resources Townsend recommends for overall wellness.

Gratitude & Positive Affirmations

I recommend taking time to show yourself some love. No, like, really say it. Tell yourself you are trying your best and give yourself some grace. What you are doing is creating a space for positive thinking patterns and adding to your cookie jar of gratitude. Next, go online or to your local store and purchase a notebook as your new gratitude journal.

Exercise & Sleep

Again, this is not a one size fits all. With exercise, from the mental health perspective, it’s how you feel. Studies show just taking a walk and [practicing] yoga reduce stress and increase alertness. Massage therapy has been proven to increase serotonin and dopamine in the brain. It also reduces stress hormone levels. Getting efficient sleep reduces stress and decreases negative moods such as anger, sadness, irritability, and frustration.

Support

It’s difficult to go through struggles if we feel alone. Reach out to a friend for company. Join a support group in town. If you’re struggling with addiction or substance abuse, there are AA (Alcohol Anonymous) and NA (Narcotics Anonymous) open and closed meetings in Manhattan and Junction City. The local NAMI (National Alliance on Mental Illness) offers free, peer-led support groups to the community. Visit nami.org or email nami.ks.flinthills@gmail.com for resources and additional information.

Mindfulness

Spend 5–15 minutes a day taking a mental break. This could include meditation, stretching or spending time away from a screen (phone, computer, or television). Kansas State University’s CAPS (Counseling and Psychological Services) program at LaFene Health Center offers workshops that teach skills related to coping with stress, improving relationships, managing difficult thoughts and emotions, practicing mindfulness, and more.

As a Black man first, I wanted to do things for others, to be a model for education, success and give access to mental health.
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PUMPKIN PICKING NEAR YOU

Welcome the autumn season with a visit to your favorite local pumpkin patches

With apple cider in one hand and a pumpkin in the other, fall is the perfect time of year to celebrate local growers and businesses in your area. What better way to do that than with fun fall activities for the whole family? Take a drive through the colorful trees that mark the change of the season and enjoy picking your favorite pumpkin, navigating corn mazes, taking hayrack rides and much more at your local farms.

A&H Farm

This fourth-generation family farm, located along the Native Stone Scenic Byway, will kick off its fall season on September 17 and will be open through November 5, every day from 9 a.m.–7 p.m. General admission is $14.99 and children two and under are free. This season the farm will include a pumpkin patch, professionally cut corn maze, a kid zone, petting zoo and more. Available produce will include winter squash, cabbage, potatoes, and spinach—though not all items will be available at the same time. The farm will also include Fun Fall Saturdays featuring local talent each Saturday afternoon in October. Find A&H Farm on Facebook to view the full list of events this fall and confirm hours of operation for this season.

A&H Farm, as well as other area farms, gears up for another fall season featuring U-pick pumpkin patches, corn mazes, live music and more.

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Britt’s Garden Acres

This family-owned and operated farm will be open for fall September 17–November 8 (though the last guaranteed date for pumpkin picking is November 5). Admission is $14.95, Friday–Sunday and Columbus Day, and $13.09 Monday–Thursday or any non-holidays. General admission to the pumpkin patch and fun zone will include one pie pumpkin from the pumpkin patch, two corn mazes, a 20-minute hayrack ride, petting zoo and much more. Be sure to check out the farm’s online calendar for exact dates and times the pumpkin patch is open. If the calendar says “open,” then head on down to Britt’s Farm for some pumpkin picking! Visit brittsfarm.com/pumpkinpatch-calendar-and-fall-fun-.html for more information and to stay updated with fall calendar events.

Little Munchkin’s Pumpkin Patch

A little over a decade ago, the Meseke family’s idea for a pumpkin patch began with just a few seeds and a run-down plot of land they inherited from their grandfather. After nurturing the land, the family started the annual pumpkinpicking event, which has grown into a fall favorite in the community. This year, the patch is open to the public September 17–October 30, Saturdays, 10 a.m.–6 p.m., and Sundays 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Monday–Friday the patch is reserved for field trips, day cares or group appointments. Admission is $10 for kids ages 2–16, adults are $5, and children under two are free. Pumpkinpicking, paintball, shooting gallery, jumping pillow and train rides are not included in admission price. Visit the littlemunchkinspumpkinpatch.com for more information.

Shutterstock 16 / Fall/Winter 2022 manhattan MAG
Meet the owner, visit the farm and discover the cheese-making 18 / Fall/Winter 2022 manhattan MAG

Holy GoatCreamery at Arch Angel Farm

STORY BY Evan McHenry PHOTOGRAPHY BY David Mayes Fall/Winter 2022 / 19 manhattan MAG

After a weekend getaway learning the art of cheese-making, Suzanne Bennett, who’d spent the last 29 years as an OB/GYN, decided it was time for a career change. With the “seed planted,” Bennett spent the next few years planning and building the farm’s infrastructure. Finally in 2017, the first kidding at Arch Angel Farms marked the beginnings of Holy Goat Creamery.

“Goat care is really an extension of my medical practice,” says Bennett, who sought the change after realizing she wanted a change in her day-to-day life.

Bennett’s farm sits on a hill north of Manhattan, just south of the Tuttle Creek Dam. Its 32 acres are largely devoted to goat pasture, with Bennett’s house at the top of the hill, and the dairy a little further down the slope.

She has been running the creamery at Arch Angel Farm since she retired in 2016, making some delicious cheeses now available at locations such as Oz Winery in Wamego, Corvino Supper Club in Kansas City, and Hyvee, to name a few. In terms of cheeses, selections include classics like chèvre, feta, double cream Brie, and Camembert. The creamery also sells a special goat milk caramel sauce, which is modeled after Mexican cajeta.

The catalyst for Bennett’s foray into cheesemaking was a class. She always had a fondness for cooking, she says, but after she went on a cheesemaking retreat in Wisconsin, she was hooked. She began making her own goat cheese, but good goat milk was expensive and hard to come by—so she decided to make her own once she retired.

“I spent my vacations going to different goat cheese dairies and working with the people, both with cheese-making and with raising the goats,” Bennett says.

In some instances, like at Goddard Farm near Lecompton, Bennett would spend several weeks living and working on the goat farms, learning goat husbandry apprenticeship-style. By the time she was ready to retire from her medical practice, she had planned the construction of a dairy on her own property.

The building itself is laid out so as one moves through it, they enter increasingly cleaner rooms. At one end, there is a loafing shed, full of stacks of hay and stalls for the goats. At night the goats are brought here to protect them from predators, Bennett says. Then, moving inward, there is the milking parlor, which also has a stall for birthing. Bennett is present for all of the births, and with her experience as an OB/GYN, some of the skills transfer over, she says.

With more than 29 years of experience as an OB/GYN, Suzanne Bennett uses her medical skills to care for her 28 goats at Arch Angel Farm.

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The cheese-making process is a combination of technical and artistic elements. Bennett utilizes her microbiology and biochemistry skills, while her sister, Sarah Fox, brings the artistic elements to the process.

“You help the goats deliver, and they have multiple kids most of the time, so they frequently have to be assisted in delivery,” she adds.

Past the milking parlor is another room containing a small kitchen and a nook with Bennett’s office area, and beyond that is another door, which leads to the cheese-making room.

“It’s almost like an operating room or a commercial kitchen in its cleanliness,” Bennett explains. “You have to change clothes and shoes to go into it, and it’s inspected every month by the Kansas Dairy Association for Grade A status.”

In addition to maintaining stringent standards for cleanliness, Bennett also conducts her own testing regularly to ensure that the quality of the milk and cheese meets USDA standards—another area in

which her medical and scientific background comes in handy.

“A lot of the technical stuff—the sanitation, the different cultures, the process of cultures and growth of the different molds—is very similar to what you learn in microbiology and biochemistry,” Bennett says. However, the process is not all technical.

“There’s a science to it that you have to follow, but after that there’s a lot of artistic elements—what cultures you use, what cultures you combine to get the different flavors or different characteristics of the cheeses,” she says. Her sister, Sarah Fox, is also retired and offers valuable help on the farm. “Sarah’s been really good about bringing that artistic level to the cheese-making process,” Bennett adds. Bennett and her sister enjoy experimenting with

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The milking parlor (right), featuring a raised milking stanchion, can accommodate up to six goats at a time.

MY PILGRIMAGE TO THE HOLY GOAT

It’s an overcast day when I ascend the long driveway at Arch Angel Farm, also the location of Holy Goat Creamery. I see goats staring at my car through the metal wiring of a fence and know I must be in the right place.

Bennett, riding a John Deere Gator, signals me to follow her to the dairy, where I park outside. She introduces herself and begins to give me the tour. The first room I enter contains her office and a small kitchen area; no goats yet.

Bennett then leads me through a door to our left, into the milking parlor; to my right is a constellation of piping and machinery, which Bennett explains is a raised milking stanchion that can accommodate up to six goats at a time. We pass this and go through another door into an enclosed pen outside, where several goats roam. One approaches me and sniffs; I’m unsure how to react—do I pet it like a dog?

“You can pet them,” Bennett tells me, and so I do. The curious ruminant seems pleased. When we return inside I catch a glimpse of a whiteboard with what appears to be a catalog of different goats and their various maintenance routines. The names are amusing: Cosmo, Champagne, Ophelia, Tholos, Boudicca, Doctor Who. Bennett tells me she’s opting not to show me the bucks right now, as at this time of year they like to cover their beards in urine, creating quite the stench. I’m not sorry to miss out on this.

Later, as I am sampling some of Bennett’s delicious cheeses, I learn probably the thousandth new goat fact of the day: apparently, goats are not serial eaters-ofeverything. Rather, they enjoy chewing on nearly everything since their lips are their main source of tactile interaction with the world. I also learn that they like to climb on rocks, that droopy udders are not genetically desirable in goat breeding, that Bennett’s Nubian goats have some of the best genetics in a five-state area, and that goats require complex gates because they’re brilliant escape artists.

manhattan MAG Fall/Winter 2022 / 23

new types of cheeses, too. For instance, during the pandemic lockdown, when many of their regular buyers were not open for business, they had a surplus of milk. This allowed them to dabble with some hard cheeses, like cheddar, Gouda and pepper jack. They have also made beer-infused cheeses and wine-infused cheeses, but “those are kind of specialty products,” Bennett says.

While the cheese-making itself is a large part of the business, raising and caring for the goats take up most of Bennett’s time.

“There’s always something new to learn,” she says. “There’s always some new disease process, or nutrition changes, and as your pasture and your feed changes year to year, you have to watch your mineral balance and vitamin balance, especially for the lactating goats.”

Bennett had 43 Nubian goats at the start of this year, but after selling some with the intention of downsizing, she now has 28.

“Goats are very much like dogs in their intelligence level and personality,” she says. “They recognize their own names, and they all have their own unique personality.”

The goats imprint onto humans after they are born, which makes them much easier to handle as adults, Bennett says. They are still quite high maintenance, however, especially during kidding season, when the birthing takes place. Kidding season usually lasts from late February through April and requires Bennett to be on call at the barn at all hours of the day.

“They’re watched carefully with nanny cams and brought into a controlled environment so they can be delivered,” she says.

It’s all worth it to her, and she especially loves taking care of the kids once they’re born.

“There’s nothing cuter than a baby goat,” she says. “You bond very quickly when you’re feeding something every four hours by a bottle.”

manhattan MAG 26 / Fall/Winter 2022

Cheese selections include classics like chèvre, feta, double cream Brie, and Camembert.

The process starts when the goats are milked, six at a time. Their milk then goes directly into a bulk tank where it is chilled to 35 degrees Fahrenheit until ready for use, between 24 and 72 hours later (but no later than that, per USDA regulations).

The milk is then pumped into a vat pasteurizer, and the bulk tank is cleaned. Pasteurization occurs at 145 degrees for half an hour, and then the milk is cooled. The temperature to which it is cooled depends on which cheese is being made, since the cultures for different cheeses require different temperatures.

Culture is then added and developed, which helps begin the process of giving the goat cheese its rich, complex flavor. Rennet is also added to develop the cheese curd. The curd is then scooped out or cut (depending on the type of cheese being made), which allows for the removal of the whey. More whey can be removed by hanging or draining the curd in colanders lined with butter muslin or cheesecloth.

For hard cheeses, further whey removal happens during pressing; for fetas, this happens during salting and resting. Herbs can also be added at this stage. For the last step, the cheese is salted, and for soft cheese, herbs may also be added. Some cheeses will be brined and aged after this step, and then sold later on.

Fall/Winter 2022 / 27 manhattan MAG

fall & winter happenings

OCTOBER

Kansas 4-H Dog Conference

October 22–23 | Kansas State University 4-H

Visitors can try different project-based learning activities with their favorite dog buddy at Rock Springs. This year’s theme is the Doggy Olympics! kansas4-h.org/tipsheet/ announcement/?id=81406

Brew at the Zoo

October 23 | Sunset Zoo

Guests can sip beer and wander Sunset Zoo’s 26-acre park, and for a good cause: all proceeds go to the Friends of Sunset Zoo’s Conservation Team to help save wildlife. sunsetzoo.com/246/Brew-at-the-Zoo

Trick or Treat

October 31 | Midwest Dream Car Collection Museum

Cars and candy! Check out old-school automobiles and get some treats along the way at the Midwest Dream Car Collection Museum, 4–6 p.m. midwestdreamcarcollection.org/events/trick-or-treat

NOVEMBER

Little Apple Marathon

November 12 | Tuttle Creek State Park

Up for a challenge? Those interested in some serious outdoor running can do four loops around Tuttle Creek State Park, equivalent to a full marathon, or opt to do a half marathon, 5K, or marathon relay. littleapplemarathon.com

Second Sunday Yoga at Prairiewood November 12 | Prairiewood Retreat & Preserve

Come try yoga with Maris Deaver of Chapter Five Yoga at the Prairiewood Retreat & Preserve! It is open to people with all levels of experience. Suggested donation of $10 at the door, with all proceeds going directly to the instructor. 3–4 p.m. fb.me/e/2bDCDsHxc

Festival of Lights November 25 | Blue Earth Plaza

Kick off the holiday season with the traditional tree lighting ceremony starting at 7 p.m. This event is free and features local choirs, food, and beverages. manhattancvb.org/event/festival-of-lights/660

DECEMBER

Santa Saturday December 3 | Midwest Dream Car Collection

Get into the holiday spirit by visiting Santa and seeing some cool cars! There will also be a reindeer scavenger hunt and plenty of opportunities for photos. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. midwestdreamcarcollection.org/events/santasaturday

Flint Hills Children’s Choir Holiday Special: Christmas in the Movies December 11 | McCain Auditorium

Come see the Konza and Bluestem Choirs, alongside special guests from Bates Dance Studio and Little Apple Aerials at 7 p.m. mccain.k-state.edu/events/2022-2023/flint-hillschildrens-choir.html

Annual Little Apple Ball Drop

December 30 | Outside Varney’s Book Store

Celebrate New Year’s Eve at various Manhattan establishments, and then that night, enjoy fireworks, laserworks, a Tribute to the Troops, and a midnight Ball Drop from atop Varney’s Book Store. littleapplenewyears.com

JANUARY

First Day Hike

January 1 | Tuttle Creek State Park

Get the new year off to a great start with a family-friendly two-mile hike at Tuttle Creek State Park! Email mckee@cityofmhk. com for more details. manhattancvb.org/event/first-day-hike/968

Classic Albums Live performs Pink Floyd: Dark Side of the Moon

January 26 | McCain Auditorium

Floyd fans and casual enjoyers alike can hear Classic Albums Live perform their rendition of Pink Floyd’s transcendent hit album, Dark Side of the Moon. The event will be held at McCain Auditorium at 7:30 p.m. manhattancvb.org/event

Open Hood Saturday

January 29 | Midwest Dream Car Collection

Are you an automobile enthusiast? A curious car novice? Regardless, this is your opportunity to see the inner workings of some impressive and iconic machines. 12–5 p.m. manhattancvb.org/event

28 / Fall/Winter 2022 manhattan MAG
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