Russia and the Baltic States September 7-October 17, 2017
A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through Russia and the Baltics from September 7—October 17, 2017. Volume 2. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2017 Cover: Spires of The Church of the Nativity, Kremlin
Russia and the Baltic States September 7-October 17, 2017
Our tour of the Golden Ring completed, we spent a busy week in Moscow, both on our own and with members of the Fellowship of American Bibliophilic Societies.
Volume 2: Moscow
Wednesday, September 13
to Moscow
The day was sunny and cool for our drive back to Moscow’s Domodedovo
of Uber-Taxi hybrid that enabled us to pre-pay for a reputable driver using a
Airport to return the car. We chose an alternate route but found that there
credit card so that there was no cash transaction at the point of delivery. As
are apparently no secret ways to Moscow, a city of nearly 12 million people
we sped through the crazy Moscow traffic in special lanes designated for
who all appear to be aggressive drivers. We encountered an inordinate
busses and taxis, we congratulated ourselves that our own driving experience
number of trucks on the road and it seemed that each time we were finally
had worked out so well. Jake drove nearly 1,000 km without a problem and
able to get around them, two roads would merge and another fleet would
we realized that having a car was the only way that we could have visited all
appear. It took us over four hours to travel 223 km and we arrived at the
the places we did in the past week. At 3:15 we pulled up at the Marriott
airport at 1:15 pm. We had no trouble finding the drop-off location, and
Aurora in the city center, a short distance from Red Square and the Bolshoi
turning over the keys took only a few minutes. Upon the recommendation of
Theatre. After five nights in different hotels, it feels good to unpack and
the rental car agent, we engaged Gett Taxi to take us to our hotel. It is a kind
spread out a little.
We wasted no time, using the remaining daylight to walk past the Bolshoi to Red Square. Crowds of tour groups guided by their flag-bearing leaders were everywhere. Unfortunately, ugly bleachers and grandstands that had been erected for the September 10 City Day celebrations were in the process of coming down, which, with an overcast sky, did not help our photographs of the colorful confusion of St. Basil’s Cathedral. We had intended to visit GUM (Glavny Universalny Magazin), the largest department store in Russia, dating back to the days of the tsars. When I was in Moscow in the mid-1980s, GUM was a depressing affair with aisles of closed doors all painted the same greyish green. I was planning to take an “after” picture, showing the gleaming chrome and glass shops filled with luxury items from around the world. However, it was closed. Police, fire, and emergency workers were grouped around the entrances while shop workers sat outside and smoked. Apparently, there had been a bomb threat; one of several in various parts of Russia in the past few days. It was interesting that people seemed rather blasé about the whole thing.
St. Basil’s Cathedral a UNESCO site
We walked back towards the Metropol Hotel, located diagonally across the street from the Bolshoi. The Metropol was opened in 1907 and is a vision of Art Nouveau. We retired to the Chaliapin cocktail lounge, named after Feodor Ivanovich Chaliapin (1873-1938), the noted Russian opera singer. The bar’s signature drinks are created after famous Russian legendary, historic, and literary figures. After carefully deliberating over a set of cards illustrating each drink, we chose The Master and Margarita (a concoction of berry-infused gin, blackberry, and apple-vanilla foam named after the book by Mikhail Bulgakov, and a Sadko, (apple whiskey, pear, and prosecco) the enchanted traveler (whose likeness illustrates a Palekh lacquered box that I bought on our 1985 trip to Russia). We had a light supper, sitting outside at the Bßrgermeister Beer Restaurant near Red Square.
Thursday, September 14
Moscow
Since breakfast is not included with our room until we begin the FABS tour rate, we decided to skip it. Instead, we walked down to the metro near the Bolshoi Theater. We bought plastic “Troika” commuter cards and proceeded to follow the Lonely Planet’s Underground Art Tour, stopping to photograph the most impressive stations. Every day, nine million people ride the Moscow metro—more than New York and London combined. We took the train to Komsomolskaya, the busiest in the system. The station has majolica panels showing happy workers and mosaics depicting military leaders of the past. At Prospect Mira, the pylons are faced with white marble and topped with ceramic bas-reliefs of floral elements. Novoslobodskaya is noted for its stained-glass panels and Belorusskaya for its ceiling mosaics of Russian history. Mayakovskaya is considered to be one of the most beautiful in the system and is a fine example of Stalinist Architecture. It is one of the deepest stations and served as an air raid shelter during WWII. Ploshchad Revolyutsil displays life-sized bronze statues of figures representing revolution, industry, agriculture, hunting, education, sport, and childrearing. Touching the nose of the dog in one of the statues is supposed to bring good luck. Over the years, it has been polished to a shine and virtually everyone I saw touched it as they passed. Kievskaya rounded out our tour, with its elegant white halls and frescoed panels with happy people in colorful folk costumes.
Marriott Aurora
The Moscow Metro
Komsomolskaya
Komsomolskaya
Prospekt Mira
Novoslobodskaya
Belorusskaya
Mayakovskaya
Ploshchad Revolyutsil
Kievskaya
As we left the station, we discovered that we were in time for a sightseeing cruise on the Moscow River. Although our trip began with rain, the skies cleared and we took nice photos of the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral from the water. We cruised under the new “floating” suspension bridge at Zaryadye Park, opened just two days ago. We also passed the controversial 52-foot statue of St. Vladimir, unveiled last year by Russian President Vladimir Putin. Also known as Vladimir the Great, the 10th century prince was the first ruler of the eastern Slavic state based in Kiev and is claimed by both Russia and Ukraine as a founding father.
Zaryadye Park Floating Bridge
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
When we disembarked two hours later, we decided that we had just enough time for a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery. Located deep in the Zamoskvorechie area of Moscow, the Tretyakov was designed by the painter Viktor Vasnetsov in 1902. The building still looks like it belongs in one of his Russian fairy-tale paintings.
Since we did not have a lot of time, we concentrated on only two areas. I wanted to re-visit the room where Viktor Vasnetsov’s paintings are hung, having remembered his Ivan the Terrible and Riding the Grey Wolf from my visit in 1985. Stepping into the room made me feel as if I had entered the pages of one of my books of fairy tales. Then there were the icons. The Tretyakov houses the world’s foremost collection of Russian icons. We needed far longer than the time we had to truly appreciate the remarkable religious works that filled several rooms. Of primary interest to us, Andrei Rublyov’s Holy Trinity from Sergiev Posad is perhaps Russia’s greatest icon. Painted in the 15th century, it joins the frescoes in the Dormition Cathedral in Vladimir as the only works that can be absolutely attributed to Rublyov—and we have seen them all.
In order to make it back to the hotel in time to get ready for the opera, we took what turned out to be a very expensive taxi ride. We had been warned that these non-official vehicles were likely to charge exorbitant fares but we were in no position to do otherwise. We got back to our room with just enough time to change clothes and pick up our tickets before walking two blocks to the Bolshoi for the performance of Mussorgsky’s Boris Godunov. The production was a 2011 revival of the 1948 production. I cannot think of a more perfect event for us to attend. The Bolshoi building was opened in 1856 on Tsar Alexander II’s Coronation Day. It is a stunning venue, with glistening chandeliers and white marble halls with red carpeting and huge mirrors. The theater is a feast of crimson and gold. Our plush seats were ideally located in the first row behind the regular chairs, with excellent sight lines. The costumes and the sets were exquisite as well. Boris Godunov is considered the quintessential Russian opera. Even today, it remains one of the great representations of Russian music and the Russian psyche.
photos by Damir Yusupov
Friday, September 15
Moscow
After missing dinner last night in our rush to get to the opera, we decided to have the hotel’s full breakfast buffet this morning. By 9:45 we stepped out to a sunny, clear day for our visit to the Kremlin. After passing the ancient Kutafiya Tower, we walked through Alexander Park, pausing to take photos at the Tomb of the Unknown. We secured our tickets and cleared security, entering the Kremlin through Trinity Tower. In the main Kremlin complex, we made our way to the cluster of astonishing churches, trying to avoid the throngs of tour groups at the Annunciation Cathedral, the Assumption Cathedral, and the Archangel’s Cathedral. Each was filled with frescoes and icons that were nearly overwhelming. Once outside again, we found a place to sit on a wall and watched as the sun and clouds played against the golden domes of those beautiful structures. At 11:40, we headed down to the Armory Chamber where we had timed entry tickets for noon. We climbed the stairs and wandered through the collection of metalwork and jewelry, armor and weapons, and gowns and carriages. We bought additional tickets to see the Diamond Fund Collection of State jewels and regalia.
Red Square & Kremlin a UNESCO site
Assumption Cathedral
Archangel Cathedral & Ivan the Great Tower
Cathedral of the Annunciation
The Church of the Nativity
It was nearing 1:00 when we left the Kremlin by the Borovitskaya Tower Gate and walked through the gardens to Red Square. We found that more of the metal stands had been removed and we retook several of our photos of St. Basil’s. Things were back to normal at GUM and it was open to visitors again. I was anxious to re-create the photo I had taken there on my last trip in 1985 and climbed the steps to the second floor of this massive shopping mall. I recognized it immediately and found just the right spot. Back at ground level, we bought ice cream and melon from vendors around the fountain in the center of the mall. We wandered through the food halls, marveling at the sweets and pastries, the meats and fish, the vodkas and the caviars.
1985
2017
By the time we departed, the sky was threatening and the wind had kicked up. We hurried back to the hotel before the worst of it, grateful that we could spend the rest of the evening taking it easy. Listening to the news in our room, we heard that Russia's military is due to start joint military exercises on Thursday with Belarus. The exercises, called Zapad-2017 (West-2017) will involve a reported 12,700 soldiers in Belarus and Kaliningrad. Some figures outside Russia
ukranews.com
have predicted many more soldiers may be involved.
Saturday, September 16
Moscow
Having seen many of Moscow’s most popular sights, we decided to spend today visiting two literary venues in the Presnya area. We headed west from the hotel, walking to Pushkin Square and continuing along the park on Tverskoy Boulevard, passing the Pushkin Theater and attractive shops and apartments. On a shady corner of Malaya Nikitskaya, we found the Gorky House Museum. Maxim Gorky (1868-1936) lived in the house for the last five years of his life. Born Alexei Maximovich Peshkov, he is known as the “Father of Soviet Literature.” Orphaned at an early age, he attempted suicide while in his teens, eventually adopting the pen name of Gorky, meaning “bitter.” He was active with the Marxist social-democratic movement and associated himself with Lenin and the Bolshevik wing of the party. Although he was exiled for much of his life, he returned at Stalin’s invitation in 1932. It was Stalin who gave Gorky this house as a meeting place for the union of writers and artists. Originally known as the Ryabushinsky Mansion, the 1906 Art Nouveau house was designed by celebrated Russian architect Fyodor Shekhtel. We were given plastic shoe covers to wear in a belated effort to protect the worn parquet floors. The house is a visual fantasy, with sculpted doorways, ceiling murals, stained glass, and a marble wave-like staircase at the top of which is a large silver capital carved with giant reptiles. In Gorky’s office, an ancient typewriter sits on his desk; his round tortoise-shell eyeglasses lie upon handwritten papers and notes. It is interesting that Gorky was never happy in the house, feeling “like a bird in a golden cage.” As we were about to leave, the attendant shooed me up a stone staircase in the back that led to a secret prayer room resembling an orthodox church.
Gorky House Museum
Happiness always looks small while you hold it in your hands, but let it go, and you learn at once how big and precious it is. —Maxim Gorky
Maxim Gorky
We walked along Malaya Bronnaya to Patriarch’s Ponds, in one of the most charming and upscale neighborhoods in Moscow. The actual pond (there is only one) is one of the main settings of Mikhail Bulgakov’s novel The Master and Margarita. The story begins with a devilish encounter on one of the yellow benches that encircle it. Today, we saw lots of young families in the park who had brought their children to see the ducks or play on the swings. A short walk further, we reached 10 Bolshaya Sadovaya Ulitsa, an Art Deco building where Bulgakov (1891-1940) once lived with his wife in No. 50 and in which he set portions of his famous novel. In 2007, the apartment became a museum— and a place of pilgrimage—for one of Russia’s most beloved authors and playwrights. The Master and Margarita and most of Bulgakov’s other works were published posthumously, a fact that has earned him cult status since the late Soviet period. In small, quirky rooms, bric-a-brac and odds and ends along with personal items and posters serve to commemorate the author’s life and work. Actually, the most interesting part of the museum is the stairway leading up five floors to it. The walls have been covered with drawings, quotations from Bulgakov’s works, and declarations of love for the writer and his characters.
What would your good do if evil didn't exist, and what would the earth look like if all the shadows disappeared? —Mikhail Bugakov
Patriarch’s Ponds
Mikhail Bulgakov
We took our time walking back to the hotel, pausing to see the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall and the domed building of the Satire Theater. At 6:45, we walked to LavkaLavka, a farmto-table restaurant located down a narrow alley just north of our hotel. Seated at a rustic wooden table with Kraft paper placemats, we ordered borscht and squash appetizers, followed by pike perch and cod. Each item on the menu is attributed to an individual Russian farmer. We tried polugar, which our server, Anita, explained is an early precursor to vodka, and topped off homemade desserts with cherry and raspberry liqueurs followed by coffee. It was one of the most pleasant meals of this trip, made even nicer by our charming server. Following her hint, I wrote a message for her on my placemat.
Sunday, September 17
Moscow
Today was the beginning of the first international tour of the Fellowship of American Bibliophilic Societies. The group assembled in the lobby of the Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel at 11:00, when Bill Butler met us and introduced us to Elena Shelepchikova, a Russian attorney in his firm who had assisted him in making arrangements and who will be accompanying us. Including Bill, our FABS group numbers ten. After introductions, we set out on foot to the headquarters of the National Union of Bibliophiles, located in a small yellow building near Pushkin Square in the Central Administrative District of Moscow. After we assembled for a photograph, we were greeted by members of the society, including Alexander Gromov, a collector of Pushkin, who will be with us in both Moscow and St. Petersburg; Dr. Mikhail Afanasiev, Director of the State Historical Public Library of Russia; Dr. Olga Tarakanova, President of the Guild of Antiquarian Booksellers; and
photo by A. Gromov
Valery Manukian, President of the Miniature Book Society.
We joined members of the NUB around a long table where samples of the
particularly precious—especially books illustrated for children. Other topics
group’s extensive publications were on display, including their quarterly
favored by Russian collectors are autographs, miniature books, and the
journal, Про книги ["Pro Knigi"] or About Books. Dr. Mikhail Seslavomskii, a
history of Russian bibliography. Dr. Seslavomskii told us the stories of several
leading Russian bibliophile, gave a short history of their organization, which
favorite items in his collection. As a young man, he was particularly moved by
was formed in 2010 as the successor to an earlier society. He explained that
the poetry of Marina Tsvetaeva (1892-1941). He described the excitement
each year, thematic meetings are held in other Russian cities for the purpose
he felt when he was able to borrow a book of her poems, although he could
of sharing bookish interests. Members may bring books to exchange or sell
only keep it for one night. He did not sleep, copying it using an old typewriter
and there is a lively sense of community among those who share the love of
that he was able to access. In that politically charged time, it was a dangerous
books. He commented that today, as our groups face each other across the
move, made even more so when he entrusted the typed sheets to a binder
table, it is important to remember that we are sitting at the same table.
in order to turn the pages into a book. He showed us the slim volume— his
Presently, Russia has about 80 bibliophilic clubs. Membership is a serious affair
precious manuscript copy bound in a plain green cover. After Dr.
and new members are only admitted once a year at the annual general
Seslavomskii’s remarks, Bill introduced the members of our group and we
meeting. A candidate must have a bibliographic library containing select or
presented the NUB with publications from our various clubs. Each of us
rare materials, and must have three recommendations by current members.
summarized our particular collecting interests. Before we adjourned for tea
He told us that they are very proud to have a number of younger members
and pastries and an opportunity to chat informally, we were each given a
(several of whom are in their early 30s) and added that the older members
copy of an illustrated history of Russian bibliography that was prepared
are valued for the rich wisdom and perspective that they bring. In Moscow,
especially for the occasion.
there are two bibliographic societies (the second is the Moscow Club of Bibliophiles). Both clubs meet twice a month on a special topic and produce brochures, journals, and posters in limited runs. Topics might include children’s books, the works of a specific writer or poet, or lighter subjects as humor, th cooking, or erotica. A major interest among Russian collectors is classic 19 century Russian literature. It is a difficult area in which to collect, as history has made extant editions during this time extremely rare. In the 1920s, many private collections were nationalized and taken over by State libraries, leaving few books on the market. Although bibliographic activity in the Soviet Union was not prohibited, neither was it encouraged, and book societies suffered. During WWII, personal libraries were often confiscated or destroyed, sending prices beyond the reach of all but a few collectors. For example, a simple almanac that would sell in the US or Europe for $10-$50 might sell in Russia for ten times that amount. At that time, illustrated books were considered
photo by A. Gromov
After the meeting, Bill led us to two specialty bookshops on the way back to the hotel. Falanster specializes in the social sciences and the humanities and is located down an alley on the second floor of a nondescript building. Moskva is a large bookstore on Tverskaya Street with an impressive antiquarian section in the lower level. I found an illustrated Russian edition of Wilkie Collins’s The Moonstone published in 1959. I decided to buy it in spite of an animated discussion as to whether it would be necessary to obtain documentation to take it out of the country. (Books issued in Russia more than a hundred years ago cannot be exported, and even publications over 50 years old require a special permit.) At 6:15, several members of our group joined us for a return to Lavka Lavka.
Monday, September 18
Moscow
Today’s weather was lovely from start to finish. We left the hotel at 9:15 and walked to the Russian State Historical Library on Starosadskii Street. We noticed the considerable renovation going on all over Moscow in preparation for the 2018 World Cup. New granite sidewalks, streetlights, and tree plantings were going up all around us. Streets are being repaved and building facades are being tuck-pointed and painted. At the site of the Moscow Printing House in Kitai-gorod, we paused at the statue of Ivan Federov, father of Russian printing, whose book, Apostle, was printed in 1564.
Frontispiece from Apostle, Ivan Fedorov. Moscow, 1564
Bill pointed out the imposing Neo-Baroque Lubyanka Building, the headquarters of the KGB and its prison complex in the Meshchansky District.
At 10:00, Dr. Mikhail Afanasiev, Director of the Russian State Historical Library, greeted us at the library entrance and led us to a lower chamber of the building where he gave us an illustrated introduction to the history of the library and its collections. The State Public Historical Library dates back to 1863 when it opened as a publicly accessible library in the Chertkov Mansion on Myasnitskaya Street. From 1887-1938, the Chertkov Library was part of the Library of the Imperial Russian Historical Museum. The Historical Library was developed from the private library of Alexander Dmitrievich Chertkov (1789-1858), a noted Moscow philanthropist and collector. He dreamed of creating a Universal Library of Russia. In the first half of the 19th century, it was the most valuable collection of Russian history books in Russia. Since 1938, the library has existed under its present name. Its current holdings are in excess of six million volumes, 275,000 of which are in Special Collections. As a deposit library, it maintains a copy of every book published in Russia. More than 30,000 books are catalogued each year. Dr. Afanasiev showed us a photo from the 1960s of a crowd of students waiting at the door to get one of the limited seats in the reading room. He noted wryly that with the Internet, the need to be physically present no longer exists and the library no longer draws such crowds.
Dr. Mikhail Afanasiev
After his introduction, we toured the facilities. In the stacks, he pointed out the old classification system in which personal collections from donors were given designations according to the rooms where they were shelved. The donors’ hand-written catalogs are still vital to the access of these original collections. Although the extensive card catalog is no longer used, it is kept on display as an artifact. Dr. Afanasiev took us through the historic reading rooms that are presently undergoing restoration.
photo by A. Gromov
Kondakov N.P. Byzantine Enamels: Zvenigorodskii Collection. St. Petersburg, 1892
After our tour, several of us got on the elevator to return to the main floor. However, our elevator was apparently not part of the renovation. We got stuck. Fortunately, three of our elevator companions spoke Russian. Elena made a brief call on the elevator phone and we waited quietly. In a few moments, the Otis man arrived and we were rescued. Alexander, who was among those of us held captive, jokingly took a photo of me holding the “Out of Order” sign. On our walk to lunch, we stopped briefly at a church, a convent, and Moscow’s oldest
photo by A. Gromov
synagogue.
bookplates from forty-four countries, more than 6,000 miniature books, and more than 8,000 supporting reference materials. She noted that Soviet President Leonid Brezhnev had been an avid collector of miniature books and his support furthered the influence of the museum. Several miniature book dealers were present, and gave short introductions to their collections. One, Vladimir Markov, had several stunning miniature books housed in Palekh painted covers; one came in its own Palekh box. When we uncertainly asked the price, we were surprised how affordable it was, and At 4:00 pm, we walked to Pushechnaia Street
bought it. We also bought a tiny religious book
for a visit to the Ex-Libris and Miniature Books
in three languages that had been taken into
Museum. Situated on the second floor of a
space aboard a Soyuz spacecraft. Vladimir
late 18th century house, the museum opened
included a photo of the book that the
in 1991 and has been restored to
cosmonauts had sent back from space. After
accommodate display cases, library shelving,
an extensive tour of the miniature book
and plenty of wall space for framed
collection and bookplates from Imperial Russia
bookplates. Curator Ludmila Shustrova
through Soviet times, we were each given a
welcomed us and expressed gratitude for the
large gift bag full of books and the lapel pin of
prominent role Bill has performed in the
the International Union of Bibliophiles,
museum’s development. Her words were
founded in 1974 to unify all those who love
followed by a short film about the history of
and care for books. Our visit concluded with a
the museum. The permanent collection
reception featuring wine and fresh salmon,
consists of Russian and foreign ex-libris plates,
subsidized by a gentleman who declared with
miniature books, and an extensive reference
teary eyes that he loved Americans. He
library on those subjects. She gave a tribute to
presented Bill with copies of his two-volume
the long-time curator of the museum, Vladimir
bibliophilic history and arranged for us to
Loburev (1933-2007). Museum holdings
pose for a group photo that he plans to
include 46,000 Russian and 20,000 foreign
include in his pending third volume.
Ludmila Shustrova
Ex Libris of F. S. Dosifei 15th c.
photo by A. Gromov
The evening concluded with dinner at CafÊ Pushkin, where nine of us had Russian specialties in a room that unfortunately appeared to be set aside for foreign groups. Although we could understand the restaurant’s desire to maintain a quiet atmosphere for its guests, we were sorry that we were too large a group to fully enjoy the ambience of this famous restaurant in its main dining room.
Tuesday, September 19
Moscow It was a chilly walk to the Museum of the Book this morning. The museum consists of multiple display rooms in the Russian State Library, which is located on Vozdvizhenka Street, near the Kremlin. The library was founded in 1862 and was formerly known as the Lenin Library. It contains a unique collection of Russian and foreign documents in 247 languages, with holdings of over 43 million items. It is also known for its specialized collections of maps, sheet music, and other items. Its Museum of Rare Books was founded in the 1950s and originally held only Russian books. However, following a successful exhibition on European books, the collection was expanded to include Western books, showing Russian books about Russian books. A senior librarian guided us through the exhibition, showing us representative materials from the 16th through the 20th centuries.
Russian State Library
Museum of the Book Russian State Library
At 2:00, we departed by coach to the suburban home of Leonid Chertkov, President of the Moscow Club of Bibliophiles. On the sixth floor of an unassuming apartment block, the flat that Leonid shares with his wife, Valentina, is filled with his collections of books and art. We gathered around a cluttered table surrounded by bookcases, and Leonid told us how he first came to be associated with books. When he was nine months old, he was taken from his baby carriage and thrown into a pile of trash comprised primarily of discarded books. He told us with a wink that this was the beginning of his madness. He said that he and his wife chose their apartment because of its high ceiling that could accommodate tall bookshelves and wall space for framed art. Using a red laser pointer, he showed us various art works, associating them with particular books in his collection. His central focus is pairing book illustrations and dust jackets with their original art. After listening in fascination to his stories and reminisces, we were called into the kitchen where Valentina had set out salmon tarts, dumplings, and fruit, and home infused vodka and wine. We toasted the love of books that brought us together in warmth and friendship, and presented him with gifts from our various clubs.
Leonid Chertkov
Printed book and associated original art
At 5:30 we boarded the bus back to the hotel, fearing that the traffic would prevent us from making the 7:00 curtain time for Don Quixote at the Bolshoi. As soon as we got near the hotel, we jumped off, raced in and picked up our tickets, and made it to the theater photo by Damir Yusupov
moments before the curtain went up. The ballet was magnificent—the beauty, the athleticism, and the energy between the dancers and the audience was thrilling. People cheered and clapped throughout the performance. It was wonderful to see so many people of all ages enjoying the performing arts with such enthusiasm. We saw a number of little girls with their mothers and grandmothers and I could imagine the excitement that they felt. We felt it too. Don Quixote was a perfect ballet for us, as it provided an opportunity to witness the freedom and improvisation that is characteristic of the Bolshoi.
Bolshoi Theater
Wednesday, September 20
to St. Petersburg
At 9:30, we departed by coach to the Leo Tolstoy Estate Museum in the
the center of Moscow changed Tolstoy’s outlook. When he saw how the poor
Khamovniki District, arriving a half-hour before the house opened. That gave us
suffered in the city, losing their identity when they left the countryside where
time to stroll through the pleasant garden behind the winter home where
they were born, he realized the value of a simple way of life and tried to adopt
Tolstoy and his wife, Sophia, lived with their children in the 1880s and 1890s.
simpler habits himself, including attempts to make his own shoes. Sophia,
Today, the home is a museum dedicated to the writer’s domestic life. An
although a devoted wife, called herself “Countess,” and liked being surrounded
enthusiastic guide took us through each room, giving us a sense of how the
by luxury items. We listened to Tolstoy’s recorded voice in the salon where
Tolstoy family lived. All the articles in the home are original, which made our
Rachmaninov once played the piano, accompanying the opera star Feodor
visit seem particularly intimate. In Tolstoy’s study, a quiet room at the back of the
Chaliapin. Our guide related that Thomas Edison had given Tolstoy a
house, we saw the great desk where he wrote. So as to sit closer to the
phonograph player, which intrigued him greatly. Visiting the house provided an
manuscript he was writing, Tolstoy shortened the legs of his desk chair. We also
intimate portrait of one of the world’s great writers, and we left with a sense of
saw the desk where Sophia would copy the drafts of his writing into legible
his humility, sensitivity, and sense of humor. As we stood outside asking our guide
pages, and the place where she did her needlework. Both Tolstoy and Sophia
some final questions, she pointed to a gnarled birch tree outside the caretaker’s
loved nature, although she enjoyed the city and thought it important to expose
cottage. “That tree remembers Tolstoy,” she said. It was a fitting conclusion to
their children to the culture in Moscow. The family’s move to this house near
our literary visit to Moscow.
Leo Tolstoy Estate Museum
So as to sit closer to the manuscript he was writing (he was nearsighted), Tolstoy shortened the legs of his desk chair, cutting them off himself.
All, everything that I understand, I understand only because I love. —War and Peace Leo Tolstoy by Nikolai Ghe, 1884
“Sue”
At 2:15, we were on our way to the train station to catch the high-speed Sapsan train to St. Petersburg. What used to be a nine-hour trip has been reduced to four, and we watched the countryside flash by from plush business-class seats. After an American-accented announcement that CCTP cameras and security personnel were on board and a cheery warning to be alert to the possibility of terrorist attack, we were served complementary drinks and a hot meal. By 9:00 pm we had arrived in St. Petersburg and were checked into the Marriott Renaissance Hotel on Pochtamskaia Street.
A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through Russia and the Baltics from September 7 —October 17, 2017. Volume 2. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2017
V. 2