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SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 1
FASHION
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Fashion Flash Ethnic Star Style Asian Streetstyle guide Style for Less Fashion and Globalization Fashion Eurotrip DIY: African Insipred Bracelet Tattoos of the World It’s Time For Africa
66 Makeup Tutorial for Asian Girls 68 Beauty Noir
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70 Tribal chic 71 International Menswear Designers
35 Fashion 36 Beauty 37 Menswear 20 26 42 52 58
Sharks Just a Little Britain Black Africa Sun & Passion Wabi Sabi
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SO VAIN VAIN Issue n.03 MARCH 2012
Issue n.04 JUNE 2012
Stephanie Reed Editor-in-chief stephanie@sovainmagazine.com Fashion
IT’S A
man’s
world Summer Romance Photographer: Francesco Vincenti Stylist: Marcello Pasquale Franco Make Up and Hair Stylist: Antonio Lagani Model: Bali@UrbanModelManagement
Selene Oliva Fashion journalist Ramona Mondì Fashion journalist Marianna de Luca Fashion journalist Allegra Contoli Fashion journalist Claudia Sirchia Fashion columnist
Beauty
Simona Serpellini Beauty Editor beauty@sovainmagazine.com
Laura Portomeo Beauty journalist
Menswears
Dario Bentivengna Menswear editor man@sovainmagazine.com
Alessandro Masetti Menswear journalist In collaboration with: Ulinx Jewelry Graphic designer Cinzia Scarsi
For more information about the So Vain Team, visit www.sovainmagazine.com Follow us on:
If you want to collaborate with us, send and email to stephanie@sovainmagazine.com
For your publicity on So Vain: adverts@sovainmagazine.com 4 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
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I’ve always found other cultures extremely fascinating. There is something unique in each culture, from its flavours to its colours and its traditions. We can be really inspired by those who are different from us and we can insert the small details that characterize them into our personal style. For instance, in this issue we can learn how to get some style tips from Japan in the “Asian Streetstyle Guide” or how we can be inspired by African colours and jewelry in our article “It’s time for Africa”. We can emulate the ethnic look from the biggest Hollywood stars in this month’s “Star Style” and we can even create our own African inspired bracelet in our special “DIY”. We also wanted to help out non-European girls with their beauty dilemmas, with a specific makeup tutorial for Asian girls and we finish with a quick glance over the biggest Asian and African up-and-coming menswear designers. I truly hope that this issue will inspire you and help you being who you are and respecting the others, transforming negative prejudices into inspirations. After all, we all live in the same small world!
Stephanie Reed
Editor-in-chief
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EMAIL OF THE MONTH I am a girl who likes fashion but has always worn the same old Jeans and T-shirt every day. I’ve always loved Taylor Swift and her style but never thought about taking inspiration from her, so your article “Wannabe Taylor Swift” was very inspiring and I’ve now started to follow some tips and suggestions you gave me! Thank you Sofia Federica Your June issue was
amazing, even better than the ones before. Interesting articles, professional graphics and awesome editorials.
Vittoria My compliments to all the team of the cover story! Incredible pictures, beautiful model and styling!
Vincent Awesome June issue and amazing pics. Great job @sovainmagazine
GET IN TOUCH Email us at: stephanie@sovainmagazine.com Facebook us at: facebook.com/sovainmagazine Tweet us: @sovainmagazine Follow us on Pinterest at: pinterest.com/sovainmag
Mary @sovainmagazine I love your Editorial “Forbidden colours”! It’s so yummy!
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FROM THE CLASSROOM TO THE OFFICE: style guide for men
You have just graduated and been lucky with finding a job, you’re faced with the dilemma of what to wear for the workplace. A style guide for men to help you through the transition from the classroom to the office
10 fab Autumn BAGS UNDER €50
What is the latest trend? How can I spend less than €50? All your questions resolved!
HOW TO GET AND MAINTAIN HEALTHY AND STRONG NAILS
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Nails, like every part of our body, need to be taken care of every day, for them to maintain a good look.
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GUIDE TO STYLE FOR TALL, PETITE AND CURVY GIRLS
Tall, short, plus size? To each one the perfect look to be always on top!
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3 FASHION TIPS TO HELP YOU TRANSITION FROM SUMMER TO AUTUMN WITH EASE
S0 VAIN FASHION Claudia Sirchia
big news in small doses
Cruciani battle!
Book a flight for the USA in Winter One of the many reasons to live in the United States are the wonderful projects that designers make in collaboration with the large chains, a bit like H&M for us here in Europe. This time we talk about Target and Neiman Marcus who, for the Christmas collection in collaboration with top designers, offer a range of products ranging from $ 8 to $ 500. Some names? Carolina Herrera, Marchesa, Marc Jacobs and many others.
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continues
the
We started talking about it last week, when Cruciani presented the bracelet in the shape of devil. This time in front of the Boutique in Forte dei Marmi, the brand has organized a bonfire to burn all the fake bracelets that customers brought there for the occasion. What they received in return? An original bracelet!
New Logo, same brand Now the appointment with the combination of fashion and charity is becoming a hallmark of our column. Among the brands engaged in social work there are also those who even created a not窶田ompletely-new logo: Gucci. There are still the two Gs to represent the brand, but this time the logo shows a G coloured in green and the word Responsibility. Congratulations to Gucci!
S0 VAIN FASHION Claudia Sirchia
big news in small doses he Fashion Victim/Icon creates a new collection.
When Product Placement becomes annoying.
Anna Dello Russo has started promoting her collection for H&M: accessories and only accessories for this limited edition. We are not surprised that the one who said that ”to defeat the crisis we must be covered with gold” created an entire collection in golden and turquoise. 50 different pieces, from sunglasses to clutches, from trolleys to improbable golden shoes, snake bracelets and baroque accents. If you’re brave enough watch the video “Fashion Shower”.
The new gem that hovers in the New Yorker fashion week is not a trend or an items with a completely new design, but Google Glasses. What are they? They are glasses with a visor projection, from which you can enter into your computer and into your digital world without necessarily having a portable device. Perfect. What has this to do with Diane Von Furstenberg? Absolutely nothing, except that the designer has decided that all the models and the experts had to wear them on the catwalk and backstage. Are we facing a new form of communication?
Vogue Pills. Two curiosities about the most-read magazine in the world. 1) Did you know that the September Issue, the edition most anticipated of the year, is now creating shipping problems because it was too big!? 916 pages of which 625 only of advertising, these are the numbers of the volume with Lady Gaga on the cover; 2) Vogue commissioned the construction of 12 tennis balls designed by famous designers. Some names? Pamela Love, Diane Von Furstenberg and rag & bone.
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STARSTYLE BY S.G.
Here’s the queen of fashion: Paris Hilton wearing a stunning dress indie style for an evening event Gwen Stefani always wants to be trendy even now that she is pregnant. Here she is wearing 2 outfits, all characterized by an ethnic flavour and coloured fantasies. On the other hand, the pop star has always declared herself as a “citizen of the world” and actually this statement is perfectly shown in her style!
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The beautiful Julia Roberts completes her look with a bindi on the forehead
The wonderful Helen Mirren who, after wearing the shoes of a strict Queen of England, seems much more at ease in a beautiful sari evening dress, worn even on the red carpet; really très chic!
ew season, new trends, and this time the mood is quite cosmopolitan! In fact the ethnic style was the real protagonist of the catwalks last season and now it’s the latest trend in Hollywood! It has to be said that, with the birth of globalization, it is no longer awkward nowadays to see beautiful women on the street wearing a sari, embroidered silk mini dresses, very fancy japan outfits and African-inspired looks and all the most famous stylists of the world are well aware of it; so push the envelope and take inspiration in order to create a really “international” mood!
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S0 VAIN FASHION Our Vanessa Hudgens looks like a modern Pocahontas in this simple outfit. She combined feathers in her hair with all sorts of bracelets and necklaces and a small tricot top. A really nice ethnic mood, which for a young girl like Vanessa, is perfect without being too pretentious.
Another example of Japan style is this of Katy Perry, definitely quirky and original. We know that Katy loves to impress and she is certainly not a girl who wants to pass unnoticed; Surely the outfit she chooses help her in this! Despite the decoration a bit too over-the-top (that is the clip into her hair and the parasol) this version ethnic mood of Katy is really cute.
Another fashion icon, the beautiful socialite Olivia Palermo, famous for her sophisticated and fashionable style, has also fallen in love with this new trend. Here we see her wearing it in two different occasions. The focal point of the look is the dress, combined with simple accessories to make it stand out even more! Very glam! Nicole Richie, with this Kimono dress, white and very short, almost resembles a modern geisha! Plus, we absolutely love it because the look, although in a clear ethnic mood, it’s really simple … an outfit to consider for several occasions and also perfect to wear for us “mortal people”! SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 11
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by 7orever 7resh
An easy way to achieve Asian street fashion is to make use of layering. Don’t be afraid to mix different tops. Wear blazers on top of shirts, and then put a vest on, and maybe throw in a tie with it. It’s all about experimenting with different clothing items and pulling the look all together. HOW TO GET IT RIGHT: A good way to start is to begin with simple skinny jeans and a tank top. From there, you can just add more items, experiment and see if it ties together. Add a vest on top of it, and then add a blazer, and then maybe throw in a scarf with it. Asian fashion is about taking liberty with your clothes and forming your own identity with every day clothing items. Look at Asian street fashion. Take a look at everything you have, and then keep mixing and matching the layers until you find a look that suits you.
Another way to achieve the Asian street fashion look is to go crazy with accessories! Young people on the streets of Asia are bold and will wear the loudest accessories. HOW TO GET IT RIGHT: One tip that I can give when accessorizing for Asian style is to use colour! True Asian fashion is about using bright colours that grab attention. Hot pink hats, electric yellow stockings and neon glasses are completely acceptable in Asian fashion. The next time you go shopping, grab the most colorful accessories of the shelves and don’t be afraid to accessorize with anything. People on the streets of Tokyo use toys, tea bags, teddy bears and electronics as for clothing. You can use these random items as necklaces, pins and scarves. One thing to remember for Asian street fashion: MORE IS MORE. 12 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
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Although Asian street fashion is about over accessorizing and excessive colors, there is a method to the madness. One thing you need to learn in Asian street fashion is a sense of balance. People on the streets of Asia know how to balance certain elements of style. HOT TO GET IT RIGHT: Know how to balance feminine and masculine styles. If you’re a girl, don’t just wear everything that a typical girl would wear. If you are wearing heels, wear baggy trousers with them. Or if you’re a guy, don’t just wear t-shirts and jeans. Wear a men’s purse with a biker jacket. It takes time to balance masculine and feminine styles, but you will get better over time. Another thing to be conscious of is balancing different genres. Don’t ever just wear punk outfits or business suits. Wear a business type blazer but then wear ripped jeans. As stated earlier, it takes time balancing this, but with time everything will become easier
www.UlinxJewelry.com
20% OFF SALE! use promotion code VAIN
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S0 VAIN FASHION Jumper THAKOON (€311,91)
Jumper FOREVER21 (€14,50)
Necklace JCREW (€121,65)
Necklace JEWELIQ (€35) Shoes LC LAUREN CONRAD (€35)
Shoes DOLCE VITA (€128)
Affordable fashion ideas on how to look a million dollars with a low budget
Dress THAKOON (€708)
Shoes GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI (€627) 14 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
Jumper MODCLOTH. COM (€39,70)
Shoes STEVE MADDEN (€80)
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FASHION AND GLOBALIZATION: A NEW TREND By Silvia Stefanini
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he new millennium started with the evident phenomenon of the great globalization. The English language is able to carry anything around the world. We buy food at the supermarket and we specialize in exotic oriental recipes. People travel a lot more and immigration has become massive with its obvious consequences. The question now is only one: with this new phenomenon, do individual traditions enrich themselves or do they lose their characteristic features in favor of uniformity? A new fashion is launched somewhere in the world and is soon followed by billions of people everywhere, from North to South, from East to West. We purchase products manufactured overseas and wear clothes with international inspirations.
The same pair of shoes is available in any large city on the planet at the same price. The major retail chains like Zara and H & M dress thousands of people from each continent in the same way. Globalization is the new fashion rule. The same dress in every country. This is the problem of having the same big brands and big stores in every city. You see a dress on a fashion blogger in England and you see it again on another one in Spain. Always the same. There are also online stores that can bring London shopping at your door. Is this right or wrong? It depends. Style is not a dress, style is how you wear it. Accessories, personality, make up and so on will always make personal style something far from globalization.
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ByKarolina Nurkowska f you plan to visit the European capitals of fashion, it’s worth remembering about having a fashionable, but still comfortable look. Wherever you are in London, Rome or Amsterdam you should look fabulous. To be honest, I often have a huge problem to look great while travelling. I usually travel by planes, even though I hate it and I am absolutely terrified by it. But as people say: depressed, stressed but always well dressed! I put myself together, teary eyes covered by huge glasses, I cheer up the casual and comfy tshirt with fun and colourful jewelry, on my head I put big colorful headphones with my favorite music and I am ready!
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Barcelona is famous for its unique style and for fiestas, of course! In hot and sunny Spain there is no another option than a lovely dress in bright colours, under which you can wear a fluo swimsuit - definitely useful on the beach. The total look can be completed by simple white sandals, which are perfect for Barcelona’s narrow streets. Barcelona never sleeps, so a comfortable but chic look is essential here. Spain is also home to ZARA and Mango, which makes me always extremely happy. “Shop sightseeing” make me happy: my wardrobe is bigger, my wallet is saying it wasn’t so bad, only the luggage is crying… a little squeeze here and there and I am ready for the next stop which is….
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Berlin, the capital of graffiti, street art and street fashion. Denim shorts, an oversized top in grey, a baseball cap and tough accessories make you real Berliners who are enjoying the Berlin life style. Fashion in Berlin is characterized by individualism, which allows everyone to be creative. While you are in Berlin don’t forget about the Helmut Newton Museum, which is must see for all fashion-lovers.
Summer is over now, but fashion keeps going, Fashion Weeks are here, and they are the biggest Fashion Euro/Global Trip and you need to be at the top! So, don’t forget the 3 keyword: comfy, chic and stylish! SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 17
S0 VAIN FASHION by Alessandra Pepe
Handmade jewels with a touch of ethnic inspirations To all fans of jewelry and accessories it has happened at least once in their life: to have the sudden urge to create a jewel with their own hands and finally wear something unique. One of the easiest trends is the one of the ethnic jewelry, and what I want to show you is a simple idea on how to transform some simple jersey strips into hand-woven bracelets to be created and combined in all colours. You want more? Add between the weaves some beads or semi-precious stones. This idea comes directly from www.vanessachristenson.com blog, a real web “paradise� for all people who are looking for some original and creative tutorials easy to put in practice.
What do y - Jersey
strips in - A pair of scissors - ... and all your manu
The photo tutorial is very clear: weave the jersey strips on your fingers! The best thing is to create more than one bracelet with different thicknesses and then mix them in your outfits.
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7 If you use more or less fingers the bracelet will be more or less thick!
you need?
n your favourite colours
ual ability
For the less creative people, there are many low cost solutions to satisfy the desire of ethnic-style jewelry: often, rather than going shopping in the big shopping centres, it is better to look for small producers and artisans and a good starting point can be looking in the online handmade marketplace “Etsy�.
Here some examples of ethnic-style jewels you can buy:
1. Beautiful earrings inspired by the native americans traditional jewels, NatureLook store at the price of 24$; 2. In the SmadarRavivDesign store you can find earrings inspired by the in dian traditions at the price of 80$; 3. Inspired by the African Masai is the necklace of MapenziGems shop, with multicolour beads at the price of 19,50$; 4. Once more from Africa is this necklace with woven textiles to create a blue and white collar, you can find it in the Necklush shop at the price of 48$.
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Photographer: Tibor MUA: Caroline Stewart Hair: Jo Myles Styling: Ada Papp Models: Sarah Hamilton and Katie McNicol
S0 VAIN FASHION Tell us your problem or ask us a question and our team of professionals will answer you! Write to stephanie@sovainmagazine.com
Ask the FASHION expert Stephanie Reed Fashion editor and stylist
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hat can I wear with a pair of leggings? My friends told me to wear a long t-shirt, but why can’t I wear a normal t-shirt? Doesn’t it look good? Stella Your friends are absolutely right Stella! You can’t wear leggings as if they were just normal trousers. They are more similar to tights than trousers, so they reveal too much of your body (back and front) and usually they are quite see-through, so people can actually see the colour of your panties. You can look quite vulgar with just your leggings covering your bum and it’s not chic at all. Besides, longer t-shirts or sweaters help you hiding your flaws!
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ately I have found some accessories in my Grandma’s draws and I would love to wear them, but how can I wear golden jewelry, especially without looking too old?
Camilla
Hi Camilla, gold looks really good with lace. You can buy a white lace top and wear it with a high waisted mini-skirt and use your golden jewels to accessorize. If you also wear a super cool bag and a pair of killer stilettos, who would dare call you “too” old!? Take care
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i Stephanie. I have a peculiar body shape and I never know how to dress for it. My breast is small, my waist is quite thin but I have a chubby belly and my shoulders are as wide as my hips. What do you suggest I should wear? Giulia Hi Giulia! Well, the best dresses for you are those with the cut just under your breast. They make your boobs look bigger , they are tight just on the smallest part of your body and are floaty on your belly and hips, hiding your flaws. As regards trousers and skirts, I really suggest you wear them with a high-waist! For t-shirts and tops, don’t buy them too fitted, otherwise they will just underline your belly. I hope this was useful!
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i So Vain, I am starting Uni and need to buy a comfy but chic bag to carry all my books and my laptop (I have a netbook) around. Any suggestions!? Beth Thank you Beth for asking us this. You’d be surprised to see how many students have the same problem as you! Here I have selected 3 bags that I think are perfect for you, as they are big and chic! They are all from boohoo.com and all in a price range between €25 to €35, so also affordable! Hope you like them.
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Tell us your problem or ask us a question and our team of professionals will answer you! Write to beauty@sovainmagazine.com
Ask the BEAUTY expert Simona Serpellini Makeup artist and Beauty Editor
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have a big problem with hair on my arms, long and black. I have always hated them, but every one keeps telling me not to take them off with wax because they say that at that point the hair grows back stronger. Is that true? Is there any other method to make them disappear and not make the situation worse!? Sara Hi dear, unfortunately there is some truth in the advice they’ve given you: after waxing the hair tends to grow back stronger, but it is only a temporary condition, in fact the more you will wax your arms from then on, the more your hair will become thinner. But I believe that the best solution is pulsed light! Unfortunately the prices are still quite high, but the results could be truly amazing. In any case, I advise you to stay well away from methods that cut off the hair and also from bleaching creams because they contain oxygen which helps hair growth. However, it is good practice to use a cream that delays regrowth, to keep your skin very hydrated and do a scrub at least twice a week. I hope this was helpful, good luck.
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ould you recommend me a few shops where you can buy good makeup products at an affordable price? Thanks. Sharon Well, you have so much choice: kiko, deborah, sephora, elf, essence, rimmel, maybelline, pupa, l’oreal are just some of the brands which have good quality at an affordable price. I suggest, however, if you are not buying online, to always evaluate the tester before you buy a product, since, in general, the products of these brands are good, but there’s always a few exceptions. Have a good shopping.
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hould false eyelashes be applied before or after doing the rest of the makeup? And then the mascara should go before you put them on or is it better to put it after so to mix well the false eyelashes with the real ones? Martina The false eyelashes are always the final step of makeup, which means that eye shadows, mascara and eye-liners are all to be applied before.
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am a boy and I have a question that is maybe a bit silly. Is there a makeup for men? For example, I have a big problem with dark circles under my eyes, especially in Winter, so I was thinking of buying a concealer (for women) to hide them. Is there are specific product for men, or are those for women fine? And, do you think that it is ridiculous that a guy uses makeup? Mario Your question is not silly at all, makeup for men does exist, but the differences with women’s makeup are irrelevant, the thing that mainly changes is the design of the packages or the fragrances contained. You can definitely use makeup “for women” without noticing the difference. Nowadays more and more men are interested in their physical appearance, especially with regards to hair removal, lamps, wrinkle creams, or, as you, certain cosmetic products. For me this is a positive phenomenon as it is right that everyone tries to look at their best , but you should never overdo it. Hope to hear you again soon. 36 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
S0 VAIN FASHION Tell us your problem or ask us a question and our team of professionals will answer you! Write to man@sovainmagazine.com
Ask the MENSWEAR expert
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Dario Beninvegna Fashion stylist and Man Editor
i! I have to buy a jacket for this Winter but I’m debating whether to buy a coat or a normal jacket. What is better and in which occasion it’s best to use one instead of the other? Thanks Daniel
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ear Daniel, In your question you didn’t tell me if you need a need jacket for work, free time, University etc...so I’ve selected one coast and one jacket for you. Generally speaking a coat is more structured and tailored than a jacket and it has a more ‘formal’ feel to it. On the other hand jackets are more loose fitting and relaxed than a coat and have an ‘informal’ look. I suggest you go for a neutral colour - black, grey, navy blue - both for coats and jackets so that it doesn’t clash with the rest of what you wearing.
i Dario. I’m 26 and I need to buy a bag for work to carry some papers and my Ipad, as during the day I need to move a lot. I really don’t have a clue on what to buy, but I’m looking for a mix between trendy and comfortable! Can you help me!? Marco Dear Marco, I really understand your problem as getting dressed for work and choosing the right bag it can be quite tricky as you need to look AND feel professional at all times. The mix between comfortable and trendy is definitely the way to go so that you and your bag will be always smart. I picked three different bags for you but all of them are made of a leather - a resistant and stylish material. You can choose from a classic laptop bag - with plenty of room for papers and iPad - to two version of the trendy satchel bag. It is up to you to pick up the one you like the most
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an a man wear a bracelet or is it only a girls’ thing? I was thinking about getting a leather bracelet but my fear is that it is too feminine. What other bracelets could look good on a man? Andrea Dear Andrea, there’s no doubt that a man can wear a bracelets at all and it’s not a girl thing only. Your choice of a leather bracelet it’s an excellent one as that material is stylish, young and manly at the same time. There are so many styles and option you can choose from at the moment and I selected a few for you from ASOS. According to your taste and style you can wear either a simple, thin bracelet or a chunky one. You can also layer few bracelets by buying a multipack set.
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TATTOOS OF THE WORLD
By Selene Oliva
Japan
Today the tattoo has become either a decoration of the body or a symbol that states a deeper meaning. There is not a half way between the two. People usually want a tattoo to remember or forget something or someone. Perhaps in today’s society, it is more difficult to find a person who has no tattoos at all, despite seeing people who do not have the courage to do one. But in reality, is there anything hiding behind the tattoo itself? A true culture, that’s what tattoos are, perhaps the richest in history. In reality, this art was born as a form of punishment similar to the branding of slaves, in sharp contrast to the pure decorative tattoo called “Gaman”.
In it is an integral part of society and Japanese tattoos are inspired by traditional designs such as those made for kimonos, samurai robes or clothes in general. In fact, the Japanese tattoos were created within the Japanese culture as a true art until the emperors started to change the meaning of the tattoos, transforming them from a form of art to a sign of recognition with a negative value. The classic themes, such as cherry branches, ideograms, the chrysanthemum with dragons or lions, are traditional designs that were exported all over the world. 38 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
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Maori
The tattoos were traditional sign with which the Maori people painted their faces. This type of tattoo had almost a romantic role, in sharp contrast to the strong graphics and fullness of the stroke. The warriors used them to tell their stories: any sign or symbol represents an event of their personal lives. The Maori tattoo is a passage, a time when the individual decides to make a mark on his body an event. But there’s more. The signs are not conventional: the tattoo artists, Tohunga ta Moko, study the body of the person and depending on their structure they decide how to develop the design to be Interesting how this form of tattooed after being approtattoo does not differ much ved by the clan. This is why from the each Mako, the Maori facial tattoo, is different from the others. The Whakairo, body one, as the two cultures have tattoo, always considers the the same roots. If on one hand shape of the body: it shows we see the meandering style out the muscle that goes of Maori, the typical shape of from the back of the knees, a spiral (Koru), on the other as if the tattooist was a taiPolynesians chose more anlor who decided which dress gular forms with completely will suit. black spaces, a sort of pattern
Polyne sian
with alternating areas of light
and shadow. Shadow as the night and darkness - the unconscious and light as the conscious part. Shapes and geometries are chosen here to highlight the natural physiognomy of the body, just as if it was an item that we choose to wear. SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 39
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Pictures from the Lagos fashion week May 2011
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By Allegra Contoli
he African craze has involved the fashion world too. Africa is emotion: a huge rainbow of colours and shades, a giant vortex of wild nature. You have to fall in love with it, for its distinctive odor, for its contradictions, its endless horizons. Africa has its own charm. It’s a fascinating mix of originality and tradition. There, you have to relate to extreme situations such as nudity of the Nuba people who gave birth to a trend that is slowly gaining ground in the fashion industry all over the world. The African fashion has recently experienced what has happened in the 80s to the Japanese fashion: it suddenly sprung up designers and brands and new fashion houses have made their way with incredible speed and won the international stage, arriving to host the Lagos fashion week, which has been the first African fashion week in May 2011
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This is what happened to Duro Olowu, Jewel by Lisa, Eric Raisina and Black Coffee, young upand-coming African designers. Africa’s fashion started its ascent, rich in imagination but above all searching for redemption. It is time to welcome an extraordinary new vision of fashion, which holds strong perfumes and magic atmospheres, embraced in different materials with an incredible combinations of colours and audacious inventiveness.Safari style, ethnic style, African style, there are countless ways to define the African fashion: sensual and feminine, from the soft fabrics with prints and designs, to the warm colours, the safari jackets and kaftans,the tunics and the maxi jewels.So let’s find out some key points of the “afro style” and some suggestions to draw inspiration from!
Fantasy all over… sketches and brushes… scribbles and patterns… Mix & match! Colour with no middle way: bright and intense as those of dusk and dawn or soft and delicate as the desert sand. In a stunning range of colours.
Like sand in the desert…. Smooth and soft… Silky on the skin…
Lions, tiger, leopards, zebras… Animalier prints for loose and soft dresses….
A must have. Necklaces and bracelets (sometimes even earrings) absolutely oversize. Large and colourful, often made of precious materials like bones or horns, but also derived from “poor” materials like wood or leather. Embellished with beads or colored stones. Just a touch of vanity for us, but a strong and deep meaning for tribal populations. Jewels, worn by both men and women, not only indicate membership in a certain social classe, but also values such as strength or ability. SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 41
S0 VAIN FASHION Photographer: Francesco Vincenti Stylist: Marcello Pasquale Franco Make Up and Hair Stylist: Antonio Lagani Model: Bali@UrbanModelManagement
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Headpiece -Stylist own Parure -Haghighat by Mahboob Zavar Dress-Kocca Belt-Zara 44 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 Sandals-Jdc
Panama with flowers- Vintage Tank top -Mauro De Marchi Bracelets - H&M Bermuda-Maison Scotch Bag-Pieces Suede boots-Stylist own
www.agas-jewelry.com
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Headpiece-H&M earrings-Vintage dress-Twin Set by Simona Barbieri bracelets -Magdecò trousers -Maison Scotch Sandals -Armani Jeans Clutch -Pieces
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Hairband- H&M Jacket- Maison Scotch Belt- Diesel Skirt- Jdc Scarf- Vintage Bracelets - Magdecò Suede boots -Stylist own 48 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
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Hairpiece -Stylist own Ethnic nexklac eand bracelets-Magdecò Underwear-Dolce&Gabbana Shorts-Silvian Heach Sandals-Armani Jeanssept 2012 50 SO VAIN magazine
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䞘 寂 A confrontation between the Eastern traditions and the Western world. An urban geisha who slowly leaves her makeup, incorporated into the western environment that surrounds her, transforms her, changes her. Loneliness is inside her because, hybrid between two worlds, she will never feel part of neither one nor the other one, characterized by its sad beauty.
Wabi Sabi
Ph: Cinzia Scarsi MUA: Simona Serpellini Stylist: Stephanie Reed Model: Suzanne @FlashModel
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By Laura Portomeo
Luckily the era in which, when there was an Asian woman, she was associated to a geisha makeup, ended. Here is a tutorial and some suggestions to emphasize the strengths of these types of face, and camouflage the imperfections.
STEP 1: THE FACE
Asian skin has a skin tone in a yellowish shade in most cases, so you can use mauve primer to neutralize it and a good foundation in a pinkish undertone to brighten the complexion. The skin doesn’t usually have particular imperfections, but it is very delicate so you should use products such as BB Creams to protect it from the sun and at the same time donating you a porcelain face. We complete the base with a transparent powder - rice powder is perfect - and a rosy blush. For the contouring, choose a matte foudation, preferably pink, and go to work the cheekbones and the outer sides of the forehead and nose, to make the face look less wider and deeper in the nose area, which is usually a little flat . With a powder, illuminate the areas between the eyebrows, the length of the nose, chin and cheekbones to give an effect of verticality. 66 SO VAIN magazine sept 2012
STEP 2: THE EYES
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First of all we are going to draw with a dark pencil a line starting from the inner corner of the eye, along the entire length, and the eyelid will have to be slightly darken with a matte eye shadow to give depth to the eye. The fix eyelid will be darkened with a touch of eye shadow, which has to be darker than the one on the fix eyelid, to hide the swelling, but illuminated on the end of the eyebrow, to create an optical illusion. On the top internal line you need to use a nude-colour pencil to make the eyes look bigger, and on the bottom internal line you will need a dark pencil to enhance the “open� eye effect. Alternatively, you can just darken the fix eyelid and use a dark pencil in the internal line. The eyelashes of Asian women are very short and straight, so you will need to curve them first with an eyelash curler, and the mascara has to be applied going upwards and outwards. The inclusion of false eyelashes in tufts will certainly improve the whole.
STEP 3: THE LIPS Finally, the lips, usually quite full, will be redefined with a pencil, giving them a more rounded look, always to favor the verticality of the face. As regards colours, the ideal is an old pink shade, but reds, cherry-reds and light browns are also perfect.
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Beauty Noir:
the international tradition of Beauty By Selene Oliva
All the beauty products that are inspired by ancient tribal traditions and rituals. A small selection of exotic products to choose as new allies for beauty. Starring oils, salts and seeds, the true recipe for a natural beauty maintained over time
Chia Seeds Chia Serum Perricone MD
The beneficial properties of Chia, a substance native of Central and South America, combined with a unique mix of essential fat-soluble vitamins, becomes a valuable product. An extra virgin solution that preserves the properties of the serum to combat skin aging.
The properties of the Black Rose: Masque Crème à la Rose Noire by Sisley Paris
A mask designed to mitigate the signs of fatigue, giving the face immediate relief. It helps your skin to regain tone and smoothness, thanks to a formula rich in vitamins and anti-aging elements. It contains extracts of black rose for an immediate tightening effect
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Back lymph Givenchy Le Soin Noir Serum
A new serum-based Algae Vitale, characterized by durability, the Givenchy laboratories have found to be a valuable source of youth. The Black sap contained in it reconstructs the structures of collagen, a protein that provides firmness, tone and skin resistance.
Fragrance of the East: Soft Body Balm to the Rose of Morocco and Coriander I Coloniali
Take care of the body and the senses, I Coloniani chose the properties of the traditional Hammam ritual to rejuvenate the body. Enveloping fragrances: the meeting of spices and fruits for a silky body balm, perfect for dry, dehydrated skin.
S0 VAIN BEAUTY Hazelnut oil, corn and macadamia: FLUID DE BEAUTÉ 14 Carita
This lotion is particularly suitable for the winter months because it nourishes intensely, but without overloading the skin thanks to a unique texture and light. With the mix of nut oils - rich in vitamin E - corn oil – soothing - and macadamia nuts - powerful repairing solution - Carita gives you the perfect recipe for a unique product suited to nourish lips, face, body and hair.
Dead Sea Premier Scrub
These natural salt crystals soaked in a mixture of aromatic oils are selected to enhance your skin with valuable minerals. The rich benefits of Dead Sea enclosed in a small package that allows your scrub to exfoliate, nourish and hydrate the skin in a single gesture.
Nourish your hair with sapphire powder and flax seed oil: Light Reflex Blue Orange A valuable restorative treatment and polish that immediately makes your hair shine and repairs the double peaks due to Sapphire dust and linseed oil which nourishes and reconstructs hair, giving a natural shine to it.
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TRIBAL CHIC
By Alessandro Masetti
For this autumn winter 2012/2013 a lot of fashion designers were inspired by extra-European costumes and cultures trying to make them wearable according to the old-country’s style. Not only accessories and masks, but many colors, decorations and make-up, mixed in ironic or casual outfits, ready for the editorials of the major fashion magazines. For this season we can consider Walter Van Beirendonck as the first who had approached the ethnic style, transforming the classic British tailoring in a pop-ethnic-art work, printing tribal symbols and drawings from the ritual body paintings. It seems to see two overlapping photos: a ritual face make up on an English gentleman. The final effect is both risky and fascinating.
You can find more Tribal chic on www.sovainmagazine.com
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The creative duo of Frankie Morello has proposed clothes and accessories inspired by Native Americans as the shoes derived from moccasins; the classic wool cardigans and suits embroidered with Navajo applications; or the ethnic jewelery ispired by the “music-talismans” used in the rites.
Speaking of styles and looks inspired by imaginary intercontinental travels, we must not fossilize in considering exclusively the ethnic look. We can see also the Corneliani collection, where the African wildlife is re-proposed in the use of colors; on the leather jackets; in the coat linings; or in the embroidered knitted sweaters with elephants, tigers and lions. Finally the ironic white shirt by the emerging fashion designer Andrea Pompilio with a giant monkey. It has already become a must have among fashion people, it’s the new cult for male fashion editorials.
S0 VAIN MAN by Dario Bentinvegna
Forget about the African and Oriental ispired designs and prints that pop in the European men’s collections every so often. Let’s have a look how the most successful designers from Africa and South Korea really incorporate their culture into menswear. You’ll be suprised to read in these pages and see in their related pictures outfits from the current AW12 collections from the African designers Ozwald Boateng, Adrien Sauvage and the South Korean Junn J., Songzio and Wooyoungmi. Infact in our Eurocentric vision of the world, in fashion terms, we instantly associate Africa with bright coloured prints and patterns and the Far East with high collars, kimono belts and silk embroidered fabric. This isn’t true anymore as designers, even if they study, graduate and start working in their country, in most cases showcase their collection either in London or Paris and they sell worldwide.
ture features is rapresented by Ozwald Boateng and Adriene Sauvage. They are both British Ghanaian, redefining the esthetic of English tailoring, working from their boutiquesin Savile Row and had been listed by L’Uomo Vogue among the most prominent designers in the May-June 2012 issue called ‘Rebranding Africa’.
Ozwald Boateng
For AW12 he blurred any geographical and style border with his ‘Migration’ collection. The garments mix a Japanese relaxed silhoutte with British and Western tailored details, in a palette of neutral dark colours.
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S0 VAIN MAN Adrien Sauvage
These days innovative design comes from South Korea and the main focus of the next three designers - Wooyongmi, Junn J. and Songzio - is still on the silhouette but updated to the tastes and the needs of a working men always on the go and wanting to look elegant but cool.They all graduated in Soul, launched their labels in their country, expanded to Japan and then succeffully showcasing their collection in Paris every season.
A mix of contemporary styles is the main feature of his latest collection, whose silhoutte is fitted and tailored, in a muted colour palette and with just few garments in vibrant Ghanaian printed fabrics.
Rei Kawakubo & Yohji Yamamoto
Let’s hop now from one continent to another: Asia. The most known Eastern designers are the Japanese Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, who revolutioned, in the ‘80, the menswear design landscape by decostructing the silhoutte and pushing the androginous look.
Wooyoungmi
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A woman who was the first contemporary South Korean menwswear designer to come to the attention of the the Western world. Her last collection is made of structured, loose fitting trousers and outerwear and the overall feeling of is of a man who’s elegant from day to night
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He presented a soft tailored collection but in darker tones, ispired by Edgar Allan Poe and the figure of the dandy with a touch of Eastern style in the high collars and the big belts around the coats.
If there’s a lesson that we can learn from these designers, it has to be that when judging and watching a menswear collection of a non-European designer we have to stop expecting to see stereotypical features in the collection, just because it’s what we know about a given culture or continent.
Junn J.
He goes back to the examples of Kawakubo and Yamamoto, decostruing the silhoutte and creating new one, with garmentsmade of overlapping pieces, for a slightly more avant-garde man. SO VAIN magazine sept 2012 73
Watch out for the next issue of
out in December 2012