EXPLORING
North Coast
DEL MAR, SOLANA BEACH, ENCINITAS, CARLSBAD: THESE CITIES EXEMPLIFY THE GOOD LIFE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
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Del Mar
Del Mar’s celebrity status began more than 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.). Celebs Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien helped establish the track—and its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s. Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round. Jimmy Durante Boulevard—named for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar— paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. The intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street forms Del Mar’s center. The Del Mar Plaza (see p. 71) has scenic fountains and sweeping ocean views, plus upscale shops like clothing boutiques Gerhard and Peaches en Regalia; Loghman Jewelers, with Italian jewelry and watches; and chains like Banana Republic and Sunglass Hut. There’s more retail along Del Mar’s main street, Camino del Mar, and the area can easily be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with shops, including Carolyn’s (1310 Camino del Mar), with designer resale items, plus several casual cafés and eateries.
More great shopping is a short drive away. East of the fairgrounds, off I-5 on Via de la Valle, is the recently expanded Flower Hill Promenade (2720 Via de la Valle), where shops include upscale women’s boutique Melero, men’s clothier Patrick James and Dallmann Chocolate Boutique. At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Boulevard at 15th Street) to enjoy a brilliant sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the famous jingle he wrote in honor of the celebrated track: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar ...
Solana Beach
Solana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible by the Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside. More than 50 shops spanning a quartermile feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques on South Cedros are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses shaped like a halfcylinder), giving the ‘hood an artistic feel. Fuel up for your walking tour of the neighborhood at Claire’s (246 N. Cedros Ave.), across from the train station. It’s the kind of eco-conscious café that provides preferred
parking for electric and hybrid cars. This stretch of Cedros is also home to Susan Street Fine Art, a contemporary art gallery (200 N. Cedros Ave.), and Tobi Blatt (152 N. Cedros Ave.), with women’s clothing from coveted labels. Cross Lomas Santa Fe to explore South Cedros. We love Cedros Soles (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for the latest footwear; HIS (also at 143 S. Cedros Ave.), a store geared towards the style-minded guy; and Bixby & Ball (214 S. Cedros Ave.), with linens, home décor items and other coastal-lifestyle accessories. Linger long enough to smell the sweet aromas springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow with soaps and lotions imported from France. You’ll also find hip home décor and art books at Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.), and everything for the modern garden at colorsplashed Chicweed (240 S. Cedros Ave.). Nestled among the retail shops is one of the county’s top live music venues: the Belly Up (see p. 73), a Solana Beach landmark for more than 35 years.
Encinitas and Cardiff-by-the-Sea
Heading north on 101 from Solana Beach, you’ll pass through the surf community of Cardiff-by-the-Sea. Be sure to take a picture with the infamous “Cardiff Kook” sculpture.
(FROM LEFT) IAN WHITE, LIMELIFE PHOTOGRAPHY, BJARNE G. JENSEN
San Diego’s North County coastal communities have a certain charm that must be experienced firsthand to fully appreciate. Yes, the pace is a bit slower than other areas, but locals prefer it that way. The North Coast’s many quaint pockets offer the best in boutique shopping, gallery hopping and beaches.
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