REVIEWS - MUMBAI
The simplistically prepared Nadir Yakhni was yet another mild gravy, with none of that fieriness that Himanshu had cautioned us about.
Kaliya’ had fried chunks of cottage ly that the wazas can’t create anycheese in subtly-spiced gravy, but by thing else to top this culinary gem! this time we were looking forward So blissfully happy were we with to the famed ‘Rista’ and ‘Gostaba’. its taste that we decided to skip the Not as Fiery as Expected The saffron-based ‘Rista’ gravy with ‘Phirni’ served in earthen bowls, A Wazwan meal usually has varieven though the aroma of saffron mutton meatballs had a slightly ous meat gravies that go best with steamed rice, though one can equal- higher potency than the ones served and pistachio beckoned tantalizingly. We were content to relax in ly savor it with some flatbreads. The earlier. However, the crowning yoghurt-based ‘Noorani Gobi’ was glory of the meal was definitely the the elation wrought by the simple, redolent with the fragrance of spices ‘Gostaba’. The secret to great gostaba homely Kashmiri food and conjure images of picnicking on the green lies in the texture of the meat that like cumin, cardamom, cloves and glades of Kashmir while snowturmeric, while the cauliflower flo- is pounded with a wooden mallet, while the flesh is still warm, until it capped mountains smiled down rets simply melted in the mouth. benignly at us. ■ reaches a paste-like consistency. The simplistically prepared ‘Nadir Vinita Bhatia Yakhni’ was yet another mild gravy, The only way to savor these perfectly with none of that fieriness that Chef cooked balls of mutton meatballs Himanshu had cautioned us about. is to close your eyes and ears to Rating: 4 out of 5 Price: INR 1700++ (meal for two) By this time, we suspected that the everything around you and simply focus on the flavors bursting in your good chef has pulled a fast one on Address: Lotus Café, JW Marriott mouth. The Gostaba, incidentally, us, since none of the dishes were Mumbai, Juhu Tara Road, Vile Parle, truly heavy on the stomach nor as signals the end of a Wazwan meal Mumbai - 400049 fiery as we anticipated. The ‘Chaman and it is easy to see why. It is unlike- Phones: 022-6693 3000 Kashmiri origins were unclear. Could this finally be a herald of spicier things to come? Well, no.
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CaLDRON February 2014