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I need to change into a TERRORIST to save the humans from their inevitable self destruction!
LIST OF ITEMS PAGE 1. THREEPENNY OPERA JACKET PAGE 2. BOBBY G JACKET (tartan versio n) PAGE 3. “THE SPEDDING” FROCK COAT PAGE 4. “The MICK JONES” DRAPE COAT PAGE 5-6. SHIRTS PAGE 7. NAPOLEON JERSEY / NAPOLEON SILK PATCH T-SHIRT PAGE 8. APACHE CASHMERE HOODED JERSEY / APACHE COTTON HOODED JACKET (REVERSIBLE) / APACHE PANTS PAGE 9. LIBERTY COTTON PATCH T-SHIR T PAGE 10. LINK WRAY / GIN LANE COTTON PATCH T-SHIRTS PAGE 11. DISPOSIBLE PAGE 13. TAILORING T-SHIRTS / FLASHC UNT & PROUD PAGE 14. ROCK n ROLL T-SHIRTS PAGE 15. PRINTED TSHIRTS: DISPOSIBLE / HOOLIGAN / ORGY PAGE 16. SILK PATCH TSHIRTS: LIBERTY / BEER ST. / GIN LANE / GERONIMO PAGE 18. TERRORIST BLAZER PAGE 19. ORGY SILK & VELVET REVERSIBL E JACKET PAGE 20. MILKMAN JACKET PAGE 21. DERBY HATS PAGE 22 . STOVEPIPE HATS PAGE 23-25. ANTIQUES & ARTEFA CTS
The original prototyp es for our tailoring were taken from the measurements of Dirty Stop Out Rock ‘n’ Rollers. Our greatest living rockers.
THE SPEDDING FROCK COAT Made to Chris Spedding’s specifications. Available in City Stripe. Features WASP buttons.
THE
MICK JONE S D RAPE COAT
COMMISSIO NED BY MICK JONE (THE CL ASH S / BI G AUDIO DYNA
MITE / DIRT
Y STOP OUT)
GET SHIRTY Jermyn Street fabric, Jermyn Street factories.
All our shirts are made in England at the only remaining shirt factory worth its salt. Bespoke service available.
available at
*Essential wear for fighting against police brutality.
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Our world famous Link Wray T-Shirt, as worn by: • Keith Richards • Steve Jones • Pete Townsend
DRINK GIN The internationally regarded Hogarth series by A Child Of The Jago.
Fashion’s Inconvenient Truth
The best thing for the environment is to stop producing disposable crap. Waste comes from over-production. Obvious. It took me 10 years to get around to the homework of my own vocation. But when I finally did read a few books, I learned some perspective from James Twitchell’s Twenty Ads That Shook the World. Twitchell asserts a little new old math. Industrial + Revolution = Mass + Production. Mass + Production = Overproduction. Overproduction + Capitalism = Need-Creation. NeedCreation x Overproduction = Advertising. Advertising x Overproduction = Mass Consumption. Get it? If not, think of it this way; somebody invented machines that made soap faster than anyone could use it up. More soap than society needed. Instead of stopping the machines it made more sense to change society. Easy, just make folks feel dirtier than they actually were. The rest is history. Soap operas, game shows brought to you by... It may surprise you, like it surprised me, that the first artistcorporate collaboration was not Murakami for Louis Vuitton. It was Sir John Everett Millais selling his artwork “Bubbles” to the Pears Soap company. While we’re on the subject, Pears used Lillie Langtry to opinion-lead before Bernard Arnault paid J-Lo to pose for Vuitton. This whole “art” of branding (thanks to the V&A for raising it to that level) is the result of massproduction’s potential. I have no answer. The whole
train-of-thought leads me to a state of dull panic which I drown out by playing music really loud. Wyclef ’s If I Were President is the tune doing this work this week. But, that last equation in Twitchell’s math is: Mass + Consumption = Waste Right? Or am I misunderstanding something? At the InterTextile event in Shanghai, this all started to come together in my head. Most of us will have a pretty clear picture of how much trash is pushed behind the convention centre as soon as a tradeshow is over. Week X is the Boat Show. Week Y is the Computer Show. The two days between events, half the Boat Show exhibition is piled into dumpsters on the not-so-pretty side of the venue. So it is particularly ironic to see tradeshow exhibition resources dedicated to new “eco” materials. In Shanghai in particular they got the memo. Given China’s reputation for waste management, the irony is sharper than ever. Eco is the flavour-of-the-month. Exciting stuff really and I’m not dismissing the products on offer. Corn Fabric, Seaweed Fabric, Bamboo Fabric, Wood Fabric, Paper Fabric, Soy Fabric, Recycled Fabric. Here’s the thing, the answer needs to be to make stuff that people won’t throw away in the first place. I, for one, relish the idea of employing the new organic fabrics insofar as they represent quality. Only if/ when they allow for quality.
words by Liam Maher
Quality is The Point If we make stuff that folks don’t throw away, we’ll pursue a design strategy that is better for the environment, nearly regardless of the fabrics we use. Go ahead and use petroleum-based material and go ahead and use fabrics processed with chemicals. Use ‘em right alongside the new organics. But use them all to make a thing that won’t end up in the waste stream. If you’re stamping out graphic tees you suspect get thrown away after two years, cut it out. Tee shirts are great. I’ve got tees I’ve had for ten years. Make them in organic cotton if that’s cool. In my book it’s even more important to make them in quality yarns. Is Pima cotton good for the environment? I have no idea. How about Giza 45 or Giza 77 or Luxsic or Sea Island or Suvin? I don’t know but I’ve got tees from Visvim and Smedley and APC featuring these fibres and I don’t throw ‘em away. No corn-fabric or soy-fabric or whatever but not destined for a landfill either. Because they’re fantastic quality and to ever throw them out would be insane. Hiroki Nakamura was investing his spirit and the resources of Visvim into the idea of DeepQuality long before Gore’s film but the two things aren’t unrelated. That’s just the dope on tees. If you’re in bed with a high-street distributor owned brand (DOB) you’ve got some soul searching ahead of you.
This and many more brilliant pieces of journalism can be found in our free publication The Daily Terror. Find it in-store at A Child Of The Jago.
She said she’d like to bathe in milk, he said, “All right, sweetheart,” And when he’d finished work one night he loaded up his cart. He said, “D’you want it pasturise? ‘Cos pasturise is best,” She says, “Ernie, I’ll be happy if it comes up to my chest.”
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