case of either finding a shortcut or throwing everything away. There were brand new Courbette bridles of fine German leather and craftsmanship, along with breast collars that had never been used, as well as training devices, grab straps, English stirrup leathers, and more, amounting to probably $2,000 replacement value. The important thing is, now, that they have been preserved for a time, if we need a particular item, we can pull it out later and do a thorough clean, oil, and polish. At least one bridle had been covered with mildew, and when it came out, there were raised black irregularities in the leather like black acne. This is caused by the mildew spores getting into the grain of the leather, and it causes a permanent blemish in the leather. It’s still usable, but is forever scarred. The black exoskeletons of the mold spores are a permanent stain even after the pores are dead. Oddly enough, the leather gets moldy because it is well oiled, as the mold grows not on the leather itself, but on the oil in the leather. When leather stays dry, it tends to dry rot from not having lubricity in the fibers. When it has lubricity, it tends to get moldy in high humidity. If you just wipe the mold off, it will often come back, so you can kill the mold
comfort
ease
spores by spraying a solution of white vinegar and distilled water, let it set for a while, then clean, oil, and topdress your leather as usual. A good wax finish after you’ve oiled your leather will help keep the mildew at bay. I’ve repeated this many times in the past, and you are welcome to make up your own mind, but I prefer pure neatsfoot oil as a conditioner. Vegetable oils attract rodents and porcupines, and many will turn rancid. Peanut oil is good if you don’t have rodent problems, and olive oil does not seem to get rancid like other vegetable oils. In a pinch, any of them are better than nothing. I’ve even seen people use burnt motor oil. The problem with petroleum based oil is that it will dissolve nylon stitching over time, and that is not good. Neatsfoot oil compound is O.K. if it is from a known company like Fiebing, but the stuff you often find at horse auctions, selling for $5 to $10 a gallon, is often less than 10% neatsfoot oil, blended with reprocessed motor oil. Not the best stuff for your good leather. The tack I washed and oiled is not going to get a top dressing right now. There’s too much tack and too little time. I don’t like doing things that way, but it actually seemed to work well. Of course with my old saddles,
I will do everything right, a good thorough cleaning, light coats of oil until the oil stays on the surface for 10 to 12 seconds, then a coat of Blackrock Leather-N-Rich. I have also used Williams Saddle Dressing, Fiebing’s Aussie Saddle Dressing, Bickmore’s 4-Way, and others. As I’ve said in the past, the best conditioner is the one you use. It doesn’t do any good sitting on the shelf ! I hope this gives some folks with lots of tack and little time an idea of how to preserve their investment. I would also like to Thank Jim Hubbard for the kind words, and also the folks who called and emailed about my feelings and opinions on “Made in the U.S.A.” Putting up with mediocrity or less in our products and our politicians is why we are in this mess today. Stand up and be heard and let not only the companies exporting our heritage know how you feel, but let the politicians know they will be held accountable at the next election! God Bless the U.S.A., again. hB Bandera’s Lew Pewterbaugh has been called the most knowledgeable saddle and tack authority in the Southwest. For private fitting consultation call (830) 328-0321 or (830) 522-6613 or email: saddlerlew@gmail.com.
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www.PandPsales.com & www.P-Ptrailers.com July 2013 - HORSEBACK MAGAZINE
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