etween rats scurrying across the floor, the demonic chanting, loud gongs and animal squeals, it was no wonder I had a tough time falling asleep. After seven hours on a narrow, coffin-shaped wooden slowboat, the last thing I needed was a ritual cow slaughter, taking place right outside my window. I would have got up to investigate this cultural ceremony in the sleepy village of Pakbang, but rats were attacking my backpack, and leaving the mosquito net would be a bad idea, because they would gnaw on me next. There are pockets of luxury and comfort in Laos, but I remember this night far better than any night at a five star resort. The infamous two-day slowboat down the Mekong River is truly a grand adventure. Hard wooden seats, a deafening engine, constant stops to pick up villagers, and yet the glorious views of the jungle, mountains and tribal settlements left my senses tingling. As the late afternoon sun set behind the mountains, the jungle buzzed with life. Locals in wooden boats waved from their traditional fishing boats, and we gently drifted along water that, late in the afternoon, took on the colour and texture of mercury. We passed a Buddhist cave carved deep into a rock face, giggling half-naked kids playing in the sand banks, steep cliffs and lush green thicket. Just about anyone can put up with rats, ritual slaughter, and splinters in their butt when this is the reward. A landlocked country bordering Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, China and Cambodia, Laos has a proud communist government, but is the poorest country in Southeast Asia. It’s also one of the best-kept secrets of Southeast Asia – beautiful, friendly, and impossibly cheap. The local currency, the kip, is handled in large bundles and shopping bags, allowing even backpackers to feel the flush of cash. Fortunately, credit cards have slowly made their way to some of the more popular tourist hotspots, such as Luang Prabang. This is where I gratefully departed the slowboat, ready to explore the country’s second largest city. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang is surrounded by stunning temples, leafy neighbourhoods, orange-robed monks and very welcoming locals. It also has one of the world’s best night markets, and while the variety of
artisan items on display are impressive, the peaceful tranquility is more so. No yelling or screaming, no tugging at the sleeves or wild hustle – just locals sitting alongside their stall, enjoying the passing traffic of foreigners. There is something tangibly beautiful about the people of Laos, most clearly evident when you see children playing in the streets. Their greeting of “sabadee!” is yelled out with such enthusiasm it cannot help but bring a smile to your face. Having explored Luang Prabang’s sparkling Buddhist temples, I almost lost my breakfast on the rollercoaster drive to Vangvieng, a small village that has quickly become a traveller favourite. Vangvieng’s primary attraction is the hiring of rubber doughnut-shaped tubes to gently float down the adjacent Mekong river, stopping at makeshift riverfront bars with wooden swings and jumps. The clean, refreshing water meanders through incredible mountain scenery, while downtempo and reggae music echoes from the bars. At one point I joined a local family on their picnic, who took great pride in offering me a coconut leaf filled with their homemade vegetable curry. It was the kind of warm, authentic moment I’ll remember for the rest of my life. “So Robin, is this top ten day?” asked Minesh, an English traveller on a tube floating nearby mine. We had met several months, and several countries ago, and enjoyed rating the quality of each travel day. “A top three day!” I replied, thinking back on my many adventures. I wondered how long it might take before the genuinely friendly Laotians become like their Thai neighbours, who seemed more genuinely interested in separating the baht from my wallet? As word spreads and more tourists arrive, improving the economy and hopefully some of the worst roads I’ve seen anywhere, I wonder if the Laos government will get past its notorious corruption and truly develop the country’s potential as one of the best places to visit in southeast Asia. Rats, rituals, rickety boats and all. Vancouver-based Robin Esrock is the co-host of the OLN/CityTV series Word Travels. You can follow his adventures at www.robinesrock.com SHE CANADA 85