Moscow Expat Life - Issue 5 - Winter 2013 by Moscow expat Life

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WINTER 2013

INDEX Community

3. IWC Art Auction 5. Community News 6. The Toastmasters! 8. Kingston Alumni at the British Ambassador’s Residence 9. Moscow Village Fête 10. BBC at Night Flight 12. Back To Business Networking Event 13. Diplomatic Number Plates 14. Internations 16. Senior Golf at Nakhabino 18. Psychological Questions of Studying abroad 20. How to Survive Moscow as a Parent

Sport

Business

31. Visas for Russia 32. Business News 34. Ask The Experts 35. Robert Knight 36. The Truth About IFAs

Social

38. Opening Night of The StnandarD 40. Papa’s Reopens 42. Social Movers 44. Radisson Montana Boat Trip 46. Speed Dating

Hotels

50. Grand Hotels

Health

52. Homesickness

Education

56. The British International School

Moscow Personalities 58. Stuart Lawson 60. The Perennial John Roche

Retro

WINTER 2013/2014

22. Thai Golf 26. The Moscow Lacrosse Club 28. Arms and Hunting Exhibition

64. 1992, Frederickovich

My Moscow

66. Bolshaya Dmitovskaya and Nikolaiskaya Ulitsa 68. Patriarshiye Prudy

Moscow Good Food Club 70. OSTERIA della piazza BIANCA 74. MUZEY restaurant

Food News

73. Chaîne des Rôtisseurs 77-88. Bars, cafes and restaurants listings 89. Community Services and Essential Information

LETTER

It has been a memorable late summer and Autumn. Two huge new expat eating and drinking venues have opened up: The StandarD and the re-branded Papa’s. Both opening parties were spectacular, and both were attended by old timers and the new, younger generation of expats who have recently crossed the border into this vast, multi-cultured, difficult-to-define continental experience that we call Russia. Generations met again at the Night Flight party organised by the BBC in September. There was an age gap of 30 years, all united by common interests. For the newly arrived, Brian Johnson’s article: The Truth About IFAs’ on pages 36 & 37 will perhaps be of interest. Maurading finance companies that cruise in expat waters are just one of the potential threats. So are parenting issues, as discussed by regular contributor Jay May, himself a stay-at-home dad, who offers a survival guide for young parents in Moscow on pages 20 & 21. There are a host of other such topics which we are only too well aware of, and which we will cover, issue by issue, in this periodical. The Moscow Good Food Club is going from strength to strength. Meetings are now monthly, and we feature two such gatherings in this issue, at the MUZEY restaurant and the OSTERIA della piazza BIANCA. Moscow continues to transform before our eyes. Suddenly we have pedestrian zones opening up, making it possible to traverse large sections of the metropolis without confronting any cars. Check out our report on newly pedestrianized Bolshaya Dmitovka and Nikolaiskaya Ulitsa on pages 66 & 67. We wish you all seasonal greetings, and share the perennial John Roche’s charitable message (pages 60 & 61). Even we busy-ultra expats have time to relax with a nice Riesling or Beajolais. OK, perhaps vodka and orange? And a copy of Moscow expat Life to while away those long winter nights with nothing to do except enjoy. Oh life is so hard! Seasonal Greetings!

Community

IWC Art Auction S howing real creativity in fund raising for its charities, the International Women’s Club held its first ever art auction in October, at the Hungarian Cultural centre. Eleven pieces of art were auctioned, all but one of which achieved its starting bid price. Katalin Diossi, the IWC charities co-chair displayed amazing flair as an auctioneer. She confidently and charmingly encouraged the bidding to ever higher levels. The IWC will have to watch that she doesn’t get hijacked by a professional auction house. Some pieces spiralled upwards for three or more times the starting

price. The auction had all the tension and pressures of a London art auction in miniature. Tense bidding battles between the lady in red and the gentleman in the third row led to gasps and rounds of applauds. All was in good faith however, as everyone knew that the higher the bidding goes, the more the very real people who the IWC’s charities help, will benefit from the 121,500 roubles which was raised at the auction. Hats off to the artists who contributed a painting each to the auction, and to the IWC for sheer creativity.

Participating Artists:

Lisa Shukov Svetlana Petrukhova Patricia der Megraditchian Tatiana Karamysheva Elena Afanasieva Kim Kegelev Mikhail Barinov Patricia Chichmanov Marie de La Ville Ekaterina Gutnikova

Colophon Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Sales:

Anastasia Sukhov, Business Development Manager anastasia@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, designer@moscowexpatlife.ru

Researchers: Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Contributors: Olga Samsonova Simon Scotting, David Morley, Jay May, Mike Bridge, Dominica Harrison, Julia Popova, Gethin Jones, Brian Johnson, Olga Zinovieva, Lucy Kenyon, Irina Kirichenko, Sasha Kachkaev

Administration: Alina Kurpas Liliya Islamova

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Moscow, Russia Tel +7 495 777 2577 www.MoscowExpatLife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. TY50-01602 Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

The Moscow Good Food Club has been created with intention to hold monthly dinners of high quality in some of Moscow’s better restaurants bringing together a diverse group of expats and Russians for a pleasant evening of excellent food, appropriate beverages and scintillating company! Attention Chefs/Restaurant Managers: Would you like to promote your skills and restaurant to our discerning members, please contact me for details! Kim@aigroup.ru

Community News

IWC

Professional

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Club

The IWC invites all professional women in Moscow - both IWC members and guests - to evenings where you can unwind and network. Evenings start with an informal welcome and light refreshments at 7pm, followed by guest speaker. From 8pm onwards the floor is yours for socializing. We hope youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll join us for an interesting evening in good company! Time: 7pm-9pm Location: Varies from event to event Entrance: Free for IWC members / 250 rub guest fee For catering purposes, we ask both IWC members and guests to register for future events by writing to: iwcgeneralofficer@gmail.com

Moscow expat Life is very popular and copies of our magazine go fast. Order your copy on-line and have it delivered to your door. www.MoscowExpatLife.ru

Community

Moscow Free Speakers Celebrate Halloween g

Simon Scottin

any people are terrified of public speaking, but thousands of people have overcome their fears and developed this valuable skill at one of thousands of Toastmasters International club around the world. In Moscow, we are lucky to have such an organization

which is open to all English speakers to improve not only their communication ability, but also their leadership. Moscow Free Speakers is the oldest English language Toastmaster club in Russia still in existence, founded by Mr Robert Meyerson in 1989. The two earlier Toastmaster clubs he founded at MGU and MGIMO only lasted a few years, but his third attempt with Moscow Free Speakers Club has thrived to the present day. Founded during a time when freedom of speech did not exist in Moscow, the club continues to follow the internationally recognized Toastmaster educational programmes originally developed by Dr Ralph Smedley in 1924. The current membership is a wonderful assortment of diverse people who all share a passion for becoming better public speakers and helping each other improve. Anyone who has spent time in Russia will know the value of a good drinking toast, but the clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s programme helps individuals to improve all aspects of interpersonal communication. The public speaking educational programme dovetails with the leadership programme as all speakers are evaluated and provided with constructive criticism to help them improve. Even the evaluators themselves receive feedback about the quality of their evaluations,

Community

so no one is above the court of public opinion! The structured part of the meeting allows members to present prepared projects which focus on specific aspects of public speaking such as gestures, motivation, or vocal variety. The more relaxed ‘table topics’ session encourages members and guests to think quickly and give short, impromptu speeches on chosen topics. Most people are not natural public-speakers, but those willing to take the risks are eventually rewarded with more confidence and the respect of their listeners. Skills learnt here can be applied to work and personal life regardless of the industry or country, hence Toastmaster International clubs can be found in most cities around the world. Life as an expat in Moscow can sometimes leave you speechless, but there is always plenty of material for speeches: don’t keep it all to yourself.

The club also organizes special events and speech contests to put members in healthy competition to perform at a higher level. Moscow Expat Life’s photographer was lucky enough to visit the club on its Halloween themed meeting, which forced speakers and evaluators to add some spookiness to their performances. The friendly atmosphere of the club and the opportunity to speak freely has survived three decades. Moscow Free Speakers Club welcomes intrepid guests and curious newcomers to visit a meeting, and even participate in the tradition if they wish. Meetings are held on alternating Thursday nights at 7pm in the Gorniy Institute near Oktyaborskaya metro station. More information can be found on their website: http://moscowfreespeakers.ru/

(special thanks to Henry Norman for assisting with the club’s history)

Community

Kingston Alumni Light Up Moscow Now an annual event, it attracted alumni who had studied at Kingston University itself, and also at partner institutions in Russia, such as the Russian Presidential Academy of National Economy and Public Administration and Russian State University of Aviation Technology. Kingston University boasts one of the top MBAs in Russia, and more recently an MSc in International HRM has been introduced which is already proving a great success. Many of the alumni who attended have reached the top of their chosen professions, and are employed by high-profile, multi-national companies such as Sberbank, TNK-BP, Yukos, Yandex and Nycomed.

he British Ambassador to Russia enthusiastically welcomed 200 alumni from Kingston University London to the residency this month to celebrate the successes of Kingston graduates based in Russia. Guests enjoyed an evening meeting fellow alumni and reminiscing about shared experiences in the surroundings of the beautiful residence overlooking views of the Moscow Kremlin.

The Moscow City Government has created an English version of their website:

http://www.mos.ru/en/ There is a Moscow Calendar, with exhibitions and events updated on a daily basis. News on construction and renovation projects, and a host of other official information. Worth checking out.

www.kingston.ac.uk

Community

he Moscow Village Fête was held again for the ninth year in a row on Saturday 14th September. Curious Russians peering over the wall of the late 19th century Anglican Church on Voznesensky pereulok in Moscow were bemused to see kids running around with painted faces, food and drink stalls, the resident chaplain, Reverend Dr. Canon Simon Stephens, releasing a bunch of coloured balloons into the autumn sky and adults and children alike enjoying themselves playing silly games, which only the British can invent. Completed in 1884, St. Andrew’s Church was taken over by the Bolsheviks in 1918 and confiscated by the Soviet Government in 1919. The Church tower was used as a machine-gun post during the October Revolution of 1917 and a number of provisional government supporters were shot in the churchyard. Until 1964 when it became a recording studio for the State record company Melodiya, the church and parsonage served as a hostel and partly to accommodate diplomats from Finland and Estonia. Following the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 1994 the church was officially allowed to return to its original purpose as a place of religious worship, although, with the exception of the parsonage, property rights have not been reassigned and remain with the Russian State. Proceeds from the fête were donated to the church restoration fund and the Taganka Childrens Fund in equal proportions. This tradition is now well David Morley established and will certainly continue next year.

The

Moscow

Village Fête

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Community

British Business Club light F t h t Nig

he British Business Club has been holding a business network event in September at Night Flight for a number of years now, at one of Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best and most well known Night Clubs. The evening was a great success.

Community

Russia’s accession to the WTO – the first conclusions one year later When on 22 August 2012 Russia became the 156th member state of the World Trade Organization, it was the end of long lasting talks and the beginning of high expectations. Now, one year later, we are drawing the first conclusions. Entering the WTO, Russia agreed to adhere to the obligations under the signed protocol which foresees among other provisions that the import tariff rates should not exceed the rates provided for by the WTO. The requirements regarding the regulation of the import tariff imply a partial decrease or even a complete cancellation of certain tariff lines. During the talks between the WTO and Russia, the decrease in revenue for the Russian Federation was one of the hottest topics. The complexity of this question is also due to the fact that the consequences will be felt throughout the Customs Union, whereas Belarus and Kazakhstan are not yet members of the WTO. In order to reach, nevertheless, the final agreement, a series of compromises needed to be achieved. First of all, the changes do not need to be implemented right away but

within a transitional period of seven years with the main changes to be expected after the third year following the accession. The first amendment of the customs import tariff was published on 6 August 2013 and came into effect on 1 September. A total decrease of the rates can be observed from 9.6% to 7.8%. However, importers should also be prepared to see an increase of those rates which are currently lower than the ones provided for by the WTO. Another issue which many seen related to the decrease in revenue coming from customs payments is the so called recycling fee which was introduced by Russia on 1 September 2012. The fee is levied on motor vehicles, and for cars it ranges from about 420 - 2 700 €. While the fee is imposed on all imports into Russia, vehicles produced in Russia are exempt. As the fee has a severe impact on EU vehicle exports to Russia, the European Union has already filed the first case against the Russian vehicle recycling fee and is supported also by Japan and the United States. Moreover, the new certification legislation, called the “Technical

Regulations” of the Customs Union will remain in force. This is due to the fact that only in 2010, the three countries decided to introduce the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union and assign the competences regarding their establishment, as well as the coordination and control related to it, to the Customs Union Commission. The scheme elaborated by the Commission introduced 47 regulations of which currently 21 have already come into force, 11 have been approved and another 15 still need to be approved. Starting from 1 January 2012, with the new Technical Regulations of the Customs Union coming into force step by step, the respective national standards will no longer be valid. The current picture shows that Russia’s accession to the WTO is not the end of a long path but only the first steps towards a more liberal trading environment.

Bettina Wisthaler, Senior Manager Import Handling at RUSSIA CONSULTING

Community

Business T Cocktail & Launch of Acapella Restaurant Expats from the English and French speaking diasporas were welcomed back to Moscow in style this September at the Swissôtel KRASNYE HOLMY at a joint event organised by the Russo-British Chamber of Commerce (RBCC) and Chambre de commerce et d’industrie franco-russe CCIFR

he event was sponsored by: AWARA Group, Grant Property, AM Ароматный Мир, SPEYBURN Highland Single malt Scottish Whisky, CATTO’S Blended Scotch Whisky, anCnoc, and last but by no means least, HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY. Amongst speakers, Alan Thompson, Russia director of the RBCC said during his welcoming speech: “I am very optimistic about the resent business climate in Russia… lot’s of people are taking interest in Russia and taking example out of the wonderful networking event that we are hosting together with the French chamber and the Swissôtel.” Marc Ohlendorf, General manager, Swissôtel KRASNYE HOLMY, mentioned that: “80% of what we are serving today is the produce of Russia, but that doesn’t mean we are serving only borsch or Russian recipes, you can create really good international dishes here… We welcome you to come back here to visit this new restaurant…” Pavel Chinsky from Chambre de commerce et d’industrie franco-russe CCIFR said: “We have 260 people here this evening… it shows the potential of what we can do when we come together… it’s great to have so many people together in a wonderful environment with the launch of a new restaurant. “ Jon Hellevig, the managing partner of AWARA group said “I am glad this event has shown how despite the weather (it was a very miserable rainy day) we are able to organise this kind of happy, positive event, this shows our internal resolve…”

Community What do the numbers on the red number plates mean? They are Russian Diplomatic codes signifying countries. All vehicles registered with foreign embassies have to use them. 001 - Great Britain 002 - Germany 003 - Canada 004 - USA 005 - Japan 006 - Spain 007 - France 008 - Belgium 009 - Greece 010 - Denmark 011 - Italy 012 - Luxembourg 013 - Netherlands 014 - Norway 015 - Turkey 016 - Australia 017 - Austria 018 - Algeria 019 - Egypt 020 - Rwanda* 021 - Argentina 022 - Afghanistan 023 - Myanmar (the former Burma) 024 - Bolivia 025 - Brazil 026 - Burundi 027 - Ghana 028 - Bangladesh 029 - Guinea 030 - Zambia 031 - Peru 032 - India 033 - Indonesia 034 - Jordan 035 - Iraq 036 - Iran 037 - Ireland 038 - Iceland 039 - Cambodia (the former Kampuchea) 040 - Kenya 041 - Cyprus 042 - Congo 043 - Costa Rica 044 - Kuwait 045 - Laos 047 - Lebanon

048 - Libya 049 - Mali 050 - Morocco 051 - Mexico 052 - Nepal 053 - Nigeria 054 - Venezuela 055 - New Zealand 056 - Pakistan 057 - Burkina Faso* 058 - Senegal* 059 - formerly Syria. Now code 133 is used. 060 - Somalia 061 - Sudan 062 - Sierra Leone 063 - Thailand 064 - Tanzania 065 - Tunisia 066 - Uganda 067 - Uruguay 068 - Philippines 069 - Finland 070 - Sri Lanka 071 - Chad 072 - Switzerland 073 - Sweden 074 - Ecuador 075 - Ethiopia 076 - Angola 077 - Democratic Republic of Congo (the former Republic Zaire) 078 - Colombia 079 - Cameroon 080 - Guinea-Bissau 081 - Portugal 082 - Bulgaria 083 - Hungary 084 - Vietnam 086 - Poland 087 - Korean People’s Democratic Republic (North Korea) 088 - Cuba 089 - Mongolia 090 - China 091 - Romania

092 - formerly Czechoslovakia (nowadays Czech Republic (148) and Slovakia (149)) 093 - Serbia 094 - Benin 095 - Gabon 096 - Guyana* 097 - Mauritania 098 - Madagascar* 099 - Malaysia 100 - Niger* 101 - Singapore 102 - Togo* 103 - Central African Republic (code 106 used earlier) 104 - Jamaica* 105 - Yemen 106 - formerly Central African Republic. Now code 103 is used. 107 - Palestine 108 - Nicaragua 109 - Mozambique 110 - Equatorial Guinea 111 - Sovereign Military Order of Malta (earlier code 111 belonged to Council for Mutual Economic Assistance (Comecon)) 112 - Malta 113 - Cape Verde 115 - Zimbabwe 116 - United Arab Emirates 117 - Côte d’Ivoire* 118 - Namibia 119 - formerly Republic of South Africa. Now code 137 is used. 120 - Oman 121 - Qatar 122 - formerly Arab League. Now code 503 is used 123 - formerly Liechtenstein 124 - South Korea 125 - Chile 126 - Panama (earlier code 126 belonged to UNESCO; see code 512)

127 - Israel 128 - FYR Macedonia (earlier code 128 belonged to EU) 129 - Albania 130 - formerly international organizations 131 - Holy See (Vatican) 132 - Lithuania 133 - Syria (code 059 used earlier) 134 - Estonia 135 - Latvia 136 - Bahrain 137 - Republic of South Africa (code 119 used earlier) 138 - Armenia 139 - formerly Georgia. Now code 158 is used. 140 - Saudi Arabia 141 - Slovenia 142 - Uzbekistan 143 - Kyrgyzstan 144 - Croatia 145 - Azerbaijan 146 - Ukraine 147 - Moldova 148 - Czech Republic 149 - Slovakia 150 - Belarus 151 - Tajikistan 152 - Turkmenistan 153 - Kazakhstan 154 - Guatemala 155 - Bosnia and Herzegovina 156 - Eritrea 157 - Paraguay* 158 - Georgia (code 139 used earlier) 159 - Brunei-Darussalam 160 - Gambia 161 - Vietnam 162 - Mauritius 163 - Dominican Republic 164 - Montenegro 165 - South Ossetia 166 - Abkhazia 167 - Djibouti

Community

InterNations October and November â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are All One in A Millionâ&#x20AC;? xclusive Moscow vents.

Community

Organising an event?

Advertise ru . e f i l t for free at a p x e w o c os M . www 17

Community

Seniors’ Open Golf Championship rley

d Mo i v a D

he Moscow Country Club hosted the Senior’s tour three day event for the first time in September this year. The last time the over-50’s pro’s came to Russia was in 2008 at the Pestovo Yacht and Golf Club which was also a rainsoaked autumn occasion. Despite the difficult, wet conditions at Nakhabino the final round on Sunday 15th September produced some spectacular golf and a cliff-hanger finish to excite the small crowd of spectators braving the weather. The British rookie ‘youngster’, Simon Brown, the over-night leader by one shot, dropped a precious two points when he fired his drive into the trees for a lost ball at the 14th. Recovering one with a birdie at the next hole, he then missed a short putt at the 16th having chipped out of the bunker. He was then even-steven at -10 and a shared lead with his compatriot, Carl Mason, and the Australian, Mike Harewood, who were already

in the warmth of the clubhouse. It was looking like a three way playoff in the pouring rain. The Scot, Colin Montgomerie, who had looked a potential winner at start of play, was lurking at -9 but lost shots waywardly on the back nine. He finished joint third with Steen Tinning of Denmark and the Spaniard, Miguel Angel Martin.

Brown kept his cool though and sank a massive putt for birdie on the long par-5 17th. His spectacular 7-iron second shot at the last landed 6 inches from the hole giving him an easy tap-in for outright victory. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hoping that, the next time this event is held in Russia, it will be in the sunny summer!

Community-Opinion

Parenting

as an Expat hn Harrison

Jo Interview by

How many years have you been an expat for?

How old are your children?

or 14 years now. We started in Sao Paulo, Brazil without any children but had our first there, then we moved to Hong Kong for two years where we had our second daughter. Then we moved to Bangkok, Thailand for another two years when the girls were very small. Then we were in Seoul, South Korea for two years (third baby arrived), and then Almaty, Kazakhstan when our youngest daughter was born and where we lived for nearly three years. We have been in Moscow since March 2011.

They are 12,10, five and three. Children are very adaptable, and you can take them anywhere, but thinking that it is easy to do is one of the biggest fallacies that people tritely roll out. When we moved our daughter at age two and a half from Hong Kong to Thailand, we thought that she was so young that it wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make any difference to her, and that she would share our excitement to have a new home with a garden full of trees and flowers. But she was absolutely traumatised, she lost her beloved nanny, everything was new, she developed a very naughty imaginary friend for a year and a half, and these problems were really hard to handle.

Parenting has never been easy, but parenting as an expat has problems which sometimes only become apparent a few months after the removal van has left. British expat Gail Mowat, who has lived with her family in Russia for two and half years, tells Moscow expat Life about some of the pitfalls.

Community-Opinion What is the easiest age group to move children?

Are there any good things about being an expat with children?

I think it’s easiest to move babies, up to about one and a half years of age. From then until around three and half, I think you just have to be very caring and nurturing throughout the whole process, and talk to them about what’s happening. Then you have the happy period of five to about eight years old when they are at school and are quite happy to stay in groups. They may have a notional best friend but there is a lot of milling around in the playgrounds at that age, one day they are talking to one group and the next another. After eight or nine, it becomes more complicated to move children because by that time they may have developed really strong friendships, and the school work load leaves less time for playing and meeting new people. From the age of 12 onwards, you really don’t want to be moving your children unless there is a really strong reason to do so. It interferes with their school work, and they are gutted to leave their friends and peer group. I think that most parents try very hard to avoid moving children older than this. There is a danger for people who are considering moving abroad to think that Moscow is not far from home, that it will not be a problem for the children to adapt. They see the set up here on their look-see and think that because the schools offer standard curriculums and recognisable after-school activities, that life here will be much the same as at home, but with some foreign cultural interest at weekends. They do not realise that the out of school set up can be so different. I do not think that moving children is a bad thing, but I think that on so many levels, you need to support your children through every move to help them manage their emotional response to such a big life change. People can embrace change but must use sensitivity with their children.

Yes, of course, there are many fantastic upsides. Children are phenomenally adaptable, and they get used to change which is quite a useful skill in life. They are quickly able to deal with new situations and they don’t let something being different or new interrupt their stride. Ideally, children who grow up as expats should develop into real citizens of the world, but this requires quite a lot of patient explanation! I think the rich, diverse experiences they have as expats are also highly educational. As my children grow and their academic studies get more detailed, I find we have many real life examples that they can use in their studies, and which help them to understand their school work, and the world in general. If you are in a situation like you are, when you have to keep on moving, when you don’t have any choice, what advice would you give other people who are in a similar situation? What have you learnt? I would always recommend that people use their social network to find the good people in new places, so that they don’t waste time meeting lots of people who aren’t on their wavelength. Listen to what these contacts have to tell you about a new place. Of course, you will have a different approach to some things, but there are always a few absolute gems of local knowledge that they will pass on if you listen. There is a huge amount to be said for local experience. It is important to keep your joy of living alive, and not allow the challenges to overwhelm you. There are always ways to make life fun, but you need tremendous patience to work out what they are in new places. You also have to be very resilient to set backs and not allow things to put you off your goal of having a happy, fulfilled, balanced family life. After all these years abroad, and so many half-learnt languages, I still get a real buzz from working something out, or getting something done in a foreign country. Variety is certainly the spice of life, and life is good!

Smoking!

Look guys, Russia is joining the rest of the non-smoking civilised world, so you if you want to smoke in public you are going to need to move Further East. Prohibition of smoking in cafes, restaurants and hotels, even sales of tobacco in what kiosks that are left comes into force in June 2014. Can they enforce the new laws? Judging by the way that the Moscow City Government has started actually implementing its policies over the past few years; very likely. A minimum price for cigarettes will be enforced in January, however in a country where four out of ten smoke, any anti-smoking efforts are not going to be popular, and those bars and restaurants which somehow flout the new laws will probably become popular amongst Russians, not so with venues popular with expats. They welcome the new regulations, although the affect on their business remains to be seen.

Community Jay May

How to survive Moscow, as a stay-at-home-parent Many expatriatestay-at-homeparents join gyms, clubs and try to learn Russian

Your plane flies over Moscow, you and your family jump out and parachute into the landing drop zone

our plane flies over Moscow, you and your family jump out and parachute into the landing drop zone. You unpack your possessions and set up camp. You settle in to your new home and adventure out to meet with and mix with the local population. This is where the fun begins and where you will meet new challenges. You may or may not speak Russian and you will be in a new city and in a country that you have probably never been to before. This may be your first stint of living abroad with your family. It takes guts and planning to survive in Moscow but it can be done, using positive mental attitude (PMA) and pro-active planning. The following advice is aimed at expatriate families moving to Moscow who are stay at home parents. You may be a stay-at-homemother or a stay-at-home-father. The first type of full time parent, is

You can also join forums such as expats.ru

International Women’s Club and the British Women’s Club

Drop zone

You will need to be pro active and make new friends

more likely here than the second type in Moscow. There are some stay-at-home-fathers here but we are as rare as the red bottomed baboon of Madagascar. If you are a stay-at-home-mother here, you will not be alone, the city is full of expatriate mothers and there is a large network of women here who are members of women’s clubs such as the International Women’s Club and the British Women’s Club. These clubs arrange baby group social events at other expatriates’ homes. They organise events and coffee mornings and are a very good way to make new friends. As with any large city, especially one like Moscow, people don’t generally come to you or call you up and say come and see us, the mountain does not go to Muhammad, he goes to the mountain. You will need to be pro active and make new friends. You can do this by joining clubs as above and by looking at on-line

portals such as Internations. You can also join forums such as expats.ru . I would recommend some caution with on-line forums but they can be a good starting place to gain information about social events and places where expatriates meet such as bars and clubs in Moscow. If you move here with kids, you will meet other parents at their school or kindergarten (pre school) who will be in the same situation as you. Many expatriate-stay-at-homeparents join gyms, clubs and try to learn Russian. These are all good places to make new friends and will allow you to get out of your Moscow flat. It is very important that you get out and keep busy. If you stay at home in your Moscow flat, with only a baby and four walls for company you will feel very lonely and you will soon go nuts. Moscow is full of expatriates, from other countries such as the USA, UK, France, New Zealand, Germany,

Community environment, that never sleeps and adventure, you may adapt to and enjoy your stay in Moscow. It’s important to remember that no situation is forever, good or bad and try to think long term and don’t get sucked into being here. Try to enjoy Moscow and make it a positive experience. Winters can be long and cold here and during this time, it is more important than ever to keep busy and to not get depressed. You can take up a sport, hobby or other activity to remain positive and happy during the winter months. Take your kids to afternoon activities, as they to will need to make new friends and keep busy.

You will need to be in the right location to be able to take your kids to kindergarten or school

+7 495 675 1636 http://www.zilcc.ru welcome@zilcc.ru

7 If your school is outside of the centre, you should consider living near the school

the centre, you should consider living near the school. Don’t rent a flat on a huge, dirty traffic filled road, try to find one in a pocket of clean air, where the bedrooms back off the main road and if possible, have some view of trees or a park. Location is vital logistically for the school run and mentally for your happiness in Moscow. Have a sense of humour and try not to compare Moscow to your own country. This applies to prices and to the culture. Russia and Moscow are not like any other city and are unique for positive and negative reasons. A lot of your survival will depend on your expectations, on the reason for moving to Moscow and where you moved from. If you move from one large city to another one such as Moscow, you will find adapting a lot easier than if you move from a small city or town. If you like green hills and mountains, Moscow will not be for you. If you like a busy

The ZIL Cultural Centre is one of the oldest and most interesting art centres in Moscow. Housed in on of ZIL’s old Moscow factories, it now offers a window into the Moscow arts Avant Guard, and features animation exhibitions, lecturers, include discussions on comtemporary film. This is what Vinzavod could have been.

Take regular breaks out of Moscow and out of Russia, if you have time and can afford it

Embrace the new culture, enjoy new foods, new languages and new experiences. Laugh at the bad ones and remember the good ones. Take regular breaks out of Moscow and out of Russia, if you have time and can afford it. I personally cannot stay in Moscow for more than three or four months without getting cabin fever. The urge to run to the hills and see green, is all consuming for me. Take a flight out of Russia to a European destination for a weekend or leave Moscow and visit the Russian countryside. As they say “a change is as good as rest” and this is very true, when living in a city like Moscow. Positive mental attitude and planning, will ensure your stay in Moscow as full time parents is a good one. Good luck.

Jay May

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who move to Moscow on contracts ranging from a year or two to five years or more. Moscow will be your new home and you must adapt and fit in. The city is hard, big and will not care about you. Get out, be positive and keep busy. Your flat location is important in maintaining good mental health and will have a big influence as to how you cope with living here. You will need to be in the right location to be able to take your kids to kindergarten or school. Most expatriates live in central areas, they have to, because the schools are usually in central areas and the Moscow traffic can be very bad. If your school is outside of

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Sport

Golf in the Land of the Smiles

estination diversity, value for money, warm weather and the vast choice of golf courses located throughout the country are key factors attracting the large numbers of visitors coming to play golf in Thailand. With over 230 courses Thailand is now regarded as the World’s 3rd destination for golf vacations and if the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s (TAT) projections are accurate, the country’s golf courses can expect to welcome over 750,000 foreign golf tourists in 2013. From the beach resorts in the south, to the mountainous surroundings in the North, or the bustling cities of Bangkok and Pattaya, there are golf courses to suit every preference and for all standards. All are located in highly accessible areas with fast and

convenient door-to-door transfers possible within several hours’ travel time. This provides you the visitor with a vast choice for planning Thailand golf holidays. Most arrive first into Bangkok, which alone boasts of 40 courses all within an hour of the capital city. Perhaps the most well-known course here is the Thai Country Club, a member’s only course which in the past hosted the Jonnie Walker Championship. New kid on the block and gaining a lot of praise from golf editors is Riverdale Golf Club with 18 testing holes. If you are busy in meetings or maybe shopping during the day then there are a number of excellent night courses including Summit Windmill and Panya Indra which stay open until midnight. In the North of Thailand there are some championship golf courses around Chiang Mai which is an hour’s

flight from Bangkok. Alpine Chiang Mai recently had Ernie Els competing in an Asian Tour event and for pure thrills do try the Chiang Mai Highland’s course with spectacular mountain side fairways. Definitely exciting challengers played in some wonderful countryside. Two and half hours’ drive south west of Bangkok is the seaside town of Hua Hin, summer home to the current Royal family. If you like your more traditional golf layout, try the country’s oldest course here, The Royal Hua Hin where you tee off close to the towns old fashioned railway. In recent years the town has increased the number of local course to eleven, with the notable ‘must play courses’ being Black Mountain and Banyan Golf Resorts. Also worth trying are Majestic Golf Club and Palm Hills all within easy drive for Hua Hin.

Sport On the other side of the Gulf of Thailand 90 minutes south of Bangkok is Pattaya with over 23 courses. In 2011 they were voted ‘Top Golf Destination in Asia’, and here you can enjoy some great courses designed by the likes of Nicklaus, Faldo, Player and Dye. St Andrews 2000 has 18 holes including two par 6’s, one the World’s longest hole at just under 900 yards. Siam Country Club’s Old Course hosts the annual LPGA Tour and they also have Siam Plantation a spectacular 27 hole club. Early in 2014 they will open Waterside a new 18 holes designed by IMG which will make

them the biggest golf complex in the region. With several direct international flights golf tourism is flourishing on the Island of Phuket which has six top quality courses. Blue Canyon which has seen the likes of Tiger and Greg Norman in the past conquer its Canyon course is perhaps the must play course here. However do try Loch Palm and its sister course Red Mountain which is carved out of an old disused tin mine. Overall golf in Thailand is most acceptable for all players with most clubs welcoming non- members seven days a week. Some have sports days during the week where the rates

are lower. Average cost of a green fee is around Baht2, 000 and expect to pay baht350 for your caddy fee and another Baht600 for a golf cart. By the way Caddies are compulsory at all clubs and you should expect to tip them around Baht 300-500 after they have looked after you for 18 holes. They will give you the yardage, read the greens and hopefully lower your score. As the country’s top golfer Thongchai Jaidee says. ‘Caddies are the best kept secret in the land of smiles, Thailand’. I hope you will come to Thailand soon to enjoy the culture, cuisine and many superb golf courses. For more information check out www. thaigolf-news.com

This article was written by Mike Bridge editor of Thai Golf News. Thai Holes to Remember...

With over 230 golf courses Thailand is fast becoming THE golf vacation destination and will soon overtake Spain as the number two country for overseas golfers after the USA. As editor of Thai Golf News, I am fortunate to play on a lot of courses, and although I have a long way to go have managed to savour over 70 to date. Therefore in this issue instead of concentrating on just one golf course report, I wanted to reflect on some of my personal holes that bring back memories of why it is such fun to play our golf in Thailand. Thailand offers all types of courses from the flat waste lands of Bangkok to the highlands of Chiang Mai, or the Seaside links of Phuket to the Mountains of Hua Hin. Apart from some excellent locations, the designers have been careful to blend into their surroundings and to create some great holes to test our skills.

I am sure you will say how come he left that hole out, or that golf course is not featured. Yes I have to admit this is my choice over the past three years of living in Thailand, but do feel free to email your favourite hole and why you think it stands out.

Muang Kaew Golf Club, Bangkok. Hole 18. Par 5, 541 yards from the Blue Tee.

This course is always popular, especially as it is near to the centre of Bangkok. It’s a fair course with several par 3’s to sort out your accuracy. This 18th hole is a great finishing hole as it allows you to give it all from the tee with a fairly wide fairway. But watch out for those cleverly placed bunkers on both sides of the fairway at around 270 yards. If you are a bigger hitter then you will probably want to go for the green in two. It may look simple but, how many balls end up in the water on the right of

the green. Course management is definitely required to conquer this finishing par five. This course is close to the airport so is ideal for an early round after landing or a final 18 before check in.

Red Mountain Golf Resort Phuket. Hole 17, Par 3, 155 yards from the Blue Tee.

One of the most photographed holes in the Kingdom. Literally carved out of a disused mine shaft you can almost use your putter as it is a straight drop down onto a fairly small green. I used my wedge and the ball almost creates its own crater as it hits the green below. Known as the clubs signature hole, I am sure the caddies there will tell you most players sneak in a second shot just for the hell of it. The course overall is certainly very well maintained and has that ‘WOW’ factor that makes playing a round a real treat.

Sport Alpine Golf Club Bangkok. Hole 11, Par 4, 387 yards from the Blue Tee.

Water comes into play on both the right hand side of the fairway plus the surrounding island green. Various elevations means you need to place you drive carefully along the middle of the fairway. Maybe you want to try you second shot onto the green, but beware of a fairly tight green with water on three sides. I am sure the golf ball fishermen must have a field day here, as I am sure many balls end up in the drink. Maybe better to play up. A truly top class 18 hole Championship course 7,100 yard par 72 masterpiece designed by Ron Garl from the USA. Members only officially but some tour operators can arrange a tee time for you.

Santiburi Samui Golf Club. Koh Samui. Hole 4 par 164 yards from the Blue Tee.

Known as the Ravine, this short par 3 reminds me a bit of the 17th at Red Mountain. When you see it for the first time from the tee box you almost expect to loose your ball. There is a small stream running across the front of the green, and trees and bushes await your ball at the back of the relatively small green, which is surrounded by a ravine. Samui is a very pretty course with great views, some blind shots and very tight fairways.

Suggest you use their driving range first to get your eye in unless you plan to make the golf ball manufactures rich. Good idea to pre book here in high season as with most top courses.

but beware of the stream across the valley below. Better hit your second shot just over the water and then use a 9 iron up onto the raised tee. A great hole to par.

Riverdale Golf Club Bangkok. Hole 18, Par 5 560 yards from the Blue Tee.

Thai Country Club. Bangkok. Hole 3 Par 3 180 yards from the Blue Tee.

The new kid on the block, designed and owned by the same team that brought you Red Mountain in Phuket. The original plot of land was flat, however the course has elevations and gullies covering up to 30 metres in height. They are some very long par 4’s to test the longest hitters. The 18th drops down to a valley surrounded by small shrubs. Keep away from the the bunkers on the right of the fairway and on the left and front of the raised tee. Definitely a hole to beware if you want to avoid some expensive bogeys. The ‘in’ course for locals and the 6th par five is also spectacular too.

Club selection here is vital depending on the wind. The green is raised with a large lake on the right and numerous mounds to get over at the front. A fair size bunker awaits you on the left hand side of the green. This is a fairly intimidating hole to find so early in the round, so try not to add too much to your card. Everything about the TCC smacks of class, from the immaculate turn out caddies to the five star restaurant and club house. Part of the Peninsula Group so one not to miss. Again Members only so book through a golf tour operator. Laem Chabang Golf Club Pattaya. Valley Course 9 holes. Designed by Jack Nicklaus all 27 holes are impressive however I would have to say that the experience of playing the nine holes here known simply as The Valley is well worth the trip to Pattaya. Sure you can experience the more famous neighbour Siam Country Club’s Old Course, home to the Honda LPGA however the combination of water, undulating greens and beautiful flora remind you of a round at Augusta without the penalties!

Chiang Mai Highlands Chiang Mai. Hole 18th par 5

Once you have taken in the amazing views and have enjoyed playing in one of the most peaceful golf courses in the Kingdom, the highlands likes to finish with a bang. This long par five starts downhill with a few cleverly place trees to avoid. If you are a budding John Daly then try for the green in two,

For details about several courses in Thailand check out www.thaigolf-news.com

Sport Tipping Thai Caddies After Your Round I remember the first time I arrived in Thailand, we were nearing the end of our round of golf and all of us did not know really how much are delightful caddies were expecting us to tip them. Nobody had pre-warned us when we checked in!!! So here are a few tips on what to do. You are actual very fortunate here in Thailand, as virtually all golf courses have professionally trained caddies to assist golfers of all standards. Back home, the only time most of us will see a caddy is on TV watching a PGA tournament. It is normally compulsory to book a caddy as part of the golf package including green fee, golf cart and caddy, although some courses do allow walking. Thai caddies are in the majority female from Northern Thailand, or in some cases from Cambodia as well. This is their full time job, which they enjoy and take very seriously. In fact it is not unusual to find both mothers and daughters carrying your bag.

They will have a good knowledge of their course, being able to provide golfers with the accurate yardage along the fairways and will be able to read those tricky undulating greens like a paperback novel. They will also assist in selecting your clubs, cleaning them, and will drive the golf cart or pull your golf trolley. It is a courtesy to offer them a cold drink, especially on hot days, and often in return they will happily fan you to cool you down as you wait at the tee boxes. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be intimidated by your caddy, as I am sure she has seen a lot worse before you came along. In fact many will happily help and advice you and all with a big Thai smile...well it is known as the Land of the Smiles. Many caddies are encouraged by their golf clubs to actually play golf in their spare time, so have a better understanding of the rules of the game. They even have their own annual golf tournament known as the Amazing Thailand Singha Caddy Championship. www.caddychampionship.com

Sport

The Moscow Lacrosse Club

his is a team sport. The American Indians played it hundreds years ago. The men’s version is a non-contact sport, which requires padding such as shoulder pads, winter gloves, helmets, elbow pads and sometimes rib guards. As with football, rugby or hockey, whilst on the attack, the objective of the game is to score by shooting the ball into the opponent team’s goal. But Lacrosse players can use their sticks to catch, carry, and pass the ball, not just hit it. Defensively, the aim is to keep the opposing team from scoring and to gain the ball using the stick and body contact. It was Texas-born David Diamonon, who founded ‘The Moscow Rebels’ (now renamed ‘The Moscow Lacrosse Club’). David’s secondary school was the only one in Texas which had a Lacrosse team and it was there that his love for the sport was kindled. “When you are a part of establishing a new sport like this, it becomes a part of your life forever. At the time I was moving to the city, to Moscow, for work. I thought that creating a Lacrosse team where there was no team before and come back to the sport after a seven year break was something I’d like to do. It was a great

way of sharing my new home with Russians and of meeting athletes. The idea was exciting because 2006 was the year of the first World Lacrosse Championship. I understood that in four year’s time, in 2010, would be the second games in which I wanted to take part in together with Moscow athletes. After starting the team in 2007 it took a long time to prepare a stable group of people who are ready to compete formally in an organized way. We didn’t manage to succeed. Now, however, the guys are skillful enough to participate in the next championship.” Said David. Eugene Arkhipov, the club’s present captain and coach emigrated to America in the early 1990s but returned to Moscow in 2010, is continuing to develop Lacrosse in Russia. Eugene explained: “In the USA I tried basketball, soccer, American football but Lacrosse is the best for me. I played it professionally six days a week at school and university. When I joined the Moscow team I tried to adapt it for Russia. We changed the name into ‘The Moscow Lacrosse Club’ and started acting not only as a team but also as a non-profit organization developing this sport in Russia. Instead of being a hobby,

Although Lacrosse is well established in Europe, the sport is only beginning in Russia. This year the ‘Moscow Lacrosse Club,’ celebrates it’s 6th birthday. This is a big event for the team, which has a mission not only to give expats a chance to play the sport, but also pave the way for Lacrosse in Russia, as the team has started to represent Russia in international competitions. As this sport is open to everyone, regardless of skill, age or nationality restrictions.

Julia Popova

Sport I wanted it to be something we can hold tournaments in. I felt that it is not enough to have games twice a year with the St. Petersburg Lacrosse team; when the guys come to practice a month before the match, play and then they disappear for 5 months. There should always be something leading us on, further. I decided that we should be going abroad and playing tournaments in Europe. “Our first international trip was a year ago to Brussels. There were many teams from Finland, France, Sweden and other countries. We played in Belgium, then with the St. Petersburg guys. In St. Petersburg we met a team from Helsinki and also had a match together. In two weeks we are going to Turkey for another international tournament.

“All the sportsmen are happy to represent and play for Russia in tournaments. In the beginning the team had more foreigners than Russians. Now it is vice verse. For most foreigners Lacrosse is like ‘oxygen’ in an international environment.” One of the players, Peter Zwack came from America and joined the team a year ago. He has been playing this sport since 1964 during its growth period in the United Stated in the 1960s and 1970s. Peter is very happy to see Lacrosse growing in Russia. Despite his lack of time on the field, he has some experience which he gives to other team members. Another player, Hidenori Morii is from Japan. He has been playing for 5 years. “When I started to play Lacrosse at the university in Japan, the sport

Pictures taken at a recent game in Turkey in which The Moscow Lacrosse Club took part. For more information, please contact Eugene Arkhipov +7 963 688 2884, madered24@hotmail.com

helped me make friends.” Sais Hidenori. “This proved true once again in Russia. In May I was playing a match in St. Petersburg and my arm was injured. I fell down but managed to get up again, and everyone warmly applauded. I will never forget it. It was too long to wait for the ambulance so my team mates took me to the hospital. Through Lacrosse, I really felt how kind the Russians are!” “If you play regularly and work hard, you will succeed,” Arkhipov said. A lot of people, after playing a few times, understand that this is maybe not for them. We let them play as long as they are eager. We never turn anybody down.” Playing Lacrosse in Moscow is expensive. Charges for hiring a field start at 5,000 roubles an hour. That’s a lot when the club isn’t making any money. For most of the guys, Lacrosse is still a hobby. Nevertheless, the team doesn’t have fees. New members don’t have to buy special sport equipment; it’s for free. Eugene commented: “I was always for free sport. Whenever you start charging you turn off a lot of people. A lot of young people have incredible athletic abilities and no money to go to sport schools. For sure we have realized we need some capital to grow. Now we are looking for ways to find sponsorship. What we decided to do is to arrange a fund. After a practice session, each player gives fifty rubles, this helps to pay for new equipment and other necessary things for the team.” Most expat players hope that Russia will be one of the countries to join the World Lacrosse Association, and would like to see Lacrosse; one of the oldest sports in the world, an Olympic sport again. Lacrosse is very interesting; it combines elements of many different sports. “There is basketball in terms of strategy, movements, pick, roll and defense. There are the dynamics of football pitch, when you run very fast from one side to another. There is the atmosphere of a hockey ring because you wear a helmet with use a stick,” explained Arkhipov. Lacrosse is the sport of the future which always brings you back.

Sport

‘Arms & Hunting’ Geth

in Jo nes exhibition 2013, 10th - 13th October - Gostiny Dvor, Moscow

ussia, thankfully, has yet to show any outward sign of the political correctness (PC) that seems to blight Britain nowadays when it comes to public attitudes towards the sports of hunting, shooting and fishing. Fieldsports are considered to be perfectly worthy pastimes in Russia almost to the point of being de rigueur. One only has to witness President Putin’s annual summer pilgrimage to the great Russian outdoors, with its associated photos splashed all over the domestic and international press, to realise that fieldsports are viewed in a very positive light by most Russians. PC in Britain dictates that shooting is inevitably portrayed as the exclusive preserve of the landed gentry, which does a great disservice to a sport with nearly 1 million adherents that crosses all class divides and which generates

over £1.6 billion for the UK economy annually. In rural Wales, where I grew up, shooting is a sport enjoyed by everyone, from the farmhand to the estate owner. Shooting is an important part of the Welsh economy too, generating over £80m a year. I’m delighted that both the Welsh and the Russians share the same refreshingly straightforward attitudes towards their shooting sports and I always feel very much at home in the company of Russian hunters. During the many years I spent living in Russia, I was fortunate enough to be invited by Russian friends on some fabulously memorable hunting trips (despite the sometimes copious amounts of vodka consumed!), with either shotgun or rifle in hand, to some amazing destination, with quarry as varied as mink, duck, goose, capercaillie, woodcock, black grouse, brown hare, wild boar and elk on the menu. Even in European Russia, I was forever amazed as to how one can find oneself in thoroughly wild and remote areas, with no FM radio let alone a mobile telephone signal, surrounded by miles and miles of truly wild forest and lakes with only

Sport Europe, it comes as no surprise that Russian hunters take great pride in their rich hunting heritage. During my hunting trips in Russia, it was absolutely fascinating for me, having grown up with shooting and fishing in my blood, to see and take part in these traditions at first hand and often to pursue game species that occur in Britain, such as duck and woodcock, using completely different, but nevertheless traditional methods. The popularity of shooting sports in Russia is nowhere reflected better than the annual ‘Arms & Hunting’ exhibition, which takes place for four days each October in Gostiny Dvor, a mere clay pigeon’s flight from Red Square, and which in 2013

bears, wolves, elk and wild boar as next door neighbours. In such a vast country, blessed with some of the largest wilderness areas on the planet and wildlife and shootable game found in such abundance in comparison to the overcrowded countries of western

celebrated its 10th anniversary. This is by far and away the leading, and most prestigious, of Russia’s many exhibitions and trade fairs which cover the burgeoning Russian hunting, fishing and outdoor sector. I’ve visited this exhibition for the past five years and have seen it grow

tremendously during that time, with more and more foreign companies taking part each year, which is a good indicator of the growing importance of the Russian market for both sporting arms, equipment and accessories, as well as the economic importance of the growing numbers of Russian hunters who can now afford to buy foreign-made hunting kit and travel in increasing numbers around the world to enjoy their shooting sports. This year 23,000 visitors came to see what was on offer from the 283 companies which took part in the exhibition, which covered a total display area of around 2,500 sq metres. 115 overseas companies, representing 27 countries, with Germany, Italy and Belgium being the best represented, participated in the show.

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The German pavillion, by far the biggest national pavillion in the exhibition, had 12 German companies exhibiting their wares, from manufacturers of sporting arms (rifles and shotguns), optics (telescopic sights and binoculars) to ammunition and accessory

Sport

makers, all actively supported by the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology. Many more German and Austrian companies involved in the sporting arms sector, ranging from a number of bespoke rifle makers to outdoor clothing and accessories retailers, were dotted around the remainder of the large exhibition hall. One German bespoke riflemaker told me that Russia had become, by far and away, his largest single market. The Italians also had a significant presence at the exhibition. Beretta, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest gunmaker, had their guns displayed prominently on the stands of the two largest retailers of sporting arms in Russia; Kolchuga and Okhotnik. Other leading Italian gunmakers, such as Fausti (www.faustiarms.com), a manufacturer of sporting shotguns and notable for the fact that the company is managed, very appropriately for Russia(!), by 3 sisters; Barbara, Elena and Giovanna, have long participated in the exhibition and count Russia as one of their most important markets worldwide, so much so that Barbara Fausti, whom I know well thanks to her regular attendance at the show, has learnt to speak excellent Russian. Surprisingly for a country with such a rich sporting heritage, only two British companies took part. These were Holland & Holland, the

famous Londonbased gunmaker which manufactures hand-made, bespoke shotguns and rifles (www. hollandandholland.com) and my own company, Britannia Sporting (www.britanniasporting. com); a sporting agency which specialises in organising shooting trips throughout the British Isles for British and European as well as a growing number of Russian clients, as well as taking more intrepid British and European shooters, who yearn for something a little more exotic than shooting reared pheasants, on hunting trips to the wilds of Russia. I would like to think that more British companies from the shooting sector, of which there are very many; ranging from gunmakers such as Purdey, William Powell, Boxall & Edmiston and Longhthorne through to clothing and accessory manufacturers such as Barbour, Hunter and Musto, will look at Russia as an important growth market for their business. Perhaps we could learn something from the leading example of the German and Italian companies who have already established a considerable presence and a committed following in the Russian market. It would also be good to have some proactive

support from UKTI, as the Germans do from their ministry, to help British companies assess the overall potential of the Russian market in a sector where British companies flourish in other countries. As for myself, I must say that I had a wonderful time taking part in the exhibition as an exhibitor for the first time and I will most certainly be back next year (my tweed shooting gear certainly seemed to create the desired impression!). I made many new friends, as well as meeting several old ones, and am very much looking forward to hosting some new Russian clients on their shooting trips to Britain this season as well as planning trips for my British clients to Russia next year.

Business

Weekend in Russia with no visa?

The Russian government has issued draft amendments to the law ‘On Entering and Departing from the Russian Federation’ which will allow foreign citizens the right to stay in Russia without a visa for up to 72 hours. The same rules are currently applicable to passengers of cruise liners and ferry boats. These new rules will also be valid for visitors arriving by plane. However, these new simplified procedures do not cover all visitors. To be able to visit Russia for up to 72 hours without a visa, you will have to: 1. Enter Russia through one of 11 airports, including Moscow airports: Sheremetyevo, Domodedovo and Vnukovo, and the main airports in such cities as Kazan, Yekaterinburg, Sochi, Novosibirsk, Khabarovsk, Kaliningrad and Vladivostok. 2. Be a citizen of the Netherlands, Sweden, Belgium, Italy, Austria, Greece, Germany, Spain, France, Canada, Australia, Japan, Singapore, China, the US and several other countries, numbering around 20 in total. 3. Fly to Russia on a Russian airline. 4. Have a hotel booking and medical insurance. Under the Russian government’s plan, the new rules will increase tourism by up to 60% (to 3.2 million people a year) and bring the Russian economy an extra 3.6-5.4 billion rubles a year. Russian airlines will also profit from bringing more tourists to Russia looking to enjoy a short no-visa 72-hour stay. 28.1 million foreigners visited the country in 2012, 2.1 million of them as tourists. Whilst these figures may seem quite high, many feel they are far too low for a country of Russia’s size and stature, as they are on a par with much smaller countries such as Laos and Costa Rica.

According to the current draft, the amendment to the law should enter force on June 1, 2014.

Valentina Khlavich, Managing Partner. B.L. business and legal solutions, vk@bl-s.com

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Business News

STAFFWELL Staffwell CEO Teri Lindeberg talked increased profits and improved employee engagement with a group of 60 professionals at the Staffwell HR Club in St. Petersburg. Teri Lindeberg, CEO of the Moscow based recruitment company Staffwell, delivered her masterclass on results driven employee engagement techniques at the October session of the Staffwell HR Club in St. Petersburg. She spoke about how, by taking steps to engage each employee, companies can improve sales, increase profitability and decrease unwanted turnover. The workshop is based on the business cases featured in Ms. Lindeberg’s new management book Making Perfect. The audience at the masterclass consisted of HR Directors and Managing Partners from the St. Petersburg based companies who are members of the Staffwell HR Club.

AUTHENTIC AMERICAN BURGERS OPENS IN MOSCOW Shake Shack® in Russia will open in Moscow on Arbat Street. Let’s go! Shake Shack is a modern day “roadside” burger restaurant known for its 100% all-natural Angus beef burgers, delicious flat-top dogs, fresh-made frozen custard, craft beer and wine, and more. A fun and lively community-gathering spot with widespread appeal, over the past decade Shake Shack has earned a cult following around the world. Shake Shack Moscow will be located at the center of the city in the historic and vibrant Arbat street—frequented by Muscovites and visitors alike. Arbat is one of oldest surviving streets in the Russian capital, and dates back to the XV century. The secret of Arbat’s fascination is its historical heritage. Traditionally it is associated with the brightest Russian intellectuals, as for numerous famous writers, actors, poets, artists Arbat street was a place to live and work or go out for a fine dinner.

Eurohome

Angel Taxi

This summer Angel Taxi finally opened a hotel in Sukhum, Abkhazia. angel-taxi.com/angel-hotel Angel Taxi continues to sponsor major events at Moscow Conservatory. We are also organising master-classes for opera singers, by Anna Skininsky and Richard Barrett.

Eurohome, a subsidiary of the Voerman Group is pleased to announce the appointment of Sherman Pereira as Russian Country Manager. Sherman’s appointment brings 20 years of removal and relocation experience to the Moscow team. Eurohome Relocation Services has been assisting expats in Moscow for the past 10 years with a growing list of relocation services including home

searches, cultural and partner programs and HR mobility solutions. Sherman, who has worked in Australia, South Africa, a number of Eastern European countries and 4 years previously in Russia, is looking forward to raising the level of relocation and mobility services in the market. “We are currently working on some new and exciting innovations which will be rolled out in the next few months that will focus on providing real and practical solutions for the Human Resource market in Russia,” Sherman commented to Moscow Expat Life. Eurohome, which has its head office in the Netherlands, can service any destination in the world through its close network of partners. Feel free to contact Eurohome for your relocation needs on +7 495 502 9523 or at russia@eurohome-relocation. com.

Business The Russia-Singapore Business Forum has confirmed its position as the only two-way gateway for Russia/CIS and Singapore/Asia businesses in the South-East Asia

he Russia-Singapore Business Forum was initiated eight years ago as a unique business-tobusiness platform that links the Russian political and business elite with Singapore. The Forum held in September this year and attended by some 750 delegates, confirmed that RSBF is Asia’s only leading business and networking platform where Russian/CIS businessmen meet with their colleagues from Asia. Beside the scale, one of the main features of the forum was the high level of its participants, including ministers and heads of governmental agencies, owners and presidents of the largest national and international corporations. The importance of the forum both to Russia and Singapore was emphasised by the fact that Singapore’s Deputy Prime Minister Tharman Shanmugaratnam chose RSBF as a platform to announce the government’s plans to ease visa requirements for Russian citizens. Other dignitaries and top businessmen who spoke at the forum included Sir Suma Chakrabarti, President, European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD), Rustam Minnikhanov, President of the Republic of Tatarstan; Hanspeter Brunner, CEO, BSI Bank Asia and Thomas Zilliacus, Executive Chairman & CEO, Youzoo Corporation. RSBF 2013 was unique in many ways. Firstly, a new session was held which focused on ASEAN as a new

emerging markets region. Weak growth in the developed countries, especially Europe, and an anticipated slowdown in China, are driving businesses to look at the rising opportunities in the fast developing markets of ASEAN. At the same time, ASEAN, with approximately 600 million people, is also striving to be a single integrated market by 2015, significantly boosting its competitiveness as a region and its attractiveness to investors. The participants of RSBF explored the unique challenges in tapping the ASEAN potential. Another new introduction to RSBF 2013 was the first-of-its-kind ‘Innovation/Technology Roundtable’. Its goal was to thrust novel technology ideas by the smartest start-ups to the Roundtable of business elites and experts who are in a position to transform these further into successful partnerships and bring the ideas to market. A third interesting segment of the RSBF 2013 was another dimension so often overlooked, namely, Russian entrepreneurs making headway in the IT world. Among the panellists were such well known Russian entrepreneurs as Serguei BELOUSSOV, CEO & Co-founder, Acronis and Senior Partner, Runa Capital; George GENS, President, LANIT Group, Oleg TINKOV Chairman of the Board, Tinkoff Credit Systems. Commenting on RSBF 2013, Mr Michael Tay, Executive Director of RSBF and former Singapore

Ambassador to Russia said, “True to this year’s theme of Connecting Markets, Linking Businesses, RSBF 2013 set a tone different from past forums. In the past, we had tried to reset the image of the Russian/ CIS economic potential to Asian and foreign businessmen, and vice versa. RSBF 2013 showed that we had moved to a fundamentally different level of business-making. There was a palpable sense of energy among businessmen to get the business going, to get deals made. One clear direction was greater collaboration in technology and innovation. Another was to explore and link up with new emerging and fast developing markets in Asia.” “Looking ahead, the DNA of RSBF must continue to be businessdriven, constantly evolving and reinventing itself as a true platform for connecting businesses and markets,” he said. About Russia-Singapore Business Forum The Russia-Singapore Business Forum (RSBF), initiated in 2006, is an annual B-to-B forum that takes place in Singapore. The RSBF Organising Council is led by Executive Director, Mr. Michael Tay, former Singapore Ambassador to Russia, and resides within the Singapore Business Federation. The RSBF’s Strategic Partner is Sberbank, the largest bank in Eastern Europe. The RSBF has the support of key Singapore Government agencies, particularly the Ministry of Trade and Industry.

For more information, visit the website: www.rsbf.org.sg

Business

“Ask the experts” ‘Each issue we invite carefully selected expat experts with years of experience who can answer questions on specific businesses in Russia’ Kim Waddoup

Kim can be contacted at kim@aigroup.ru

Johan Verbeeck

Contact Johan at: johan@elanlanguages.ru

How long have you been working with Russia? I started in Moscow in 1992 and have had an office in Moscow since 1994. Are you an entrepreneur or employed? I would say that I am definitely an entrepreneur! What type of work do you do? My initial background was tourism and I came to

expand tourism from Russia for up-market clients. This moved into organising specialised tourism events in Moscow and now my company is the market leader for Property Abroad with 8 exhibitions, the leading overseas property magazine and a vast property portal. In addition we also organise exhibitions for the Meetings/Incentive sector and Medical Tourism.

I recently launched Moscow expat Life magazine, a project that I wanted to do for a long time. My speciality is now property abroad, where, when and how to invest or to enjoy a more relaxed lifestyle. With Moscow expat Life I can also assist people promote their products/services to the vast expat community in Moscow.

How long have you been working with Russia? How long have you been working with Russia? I visited Russia for the first time in autumn 1986 as a student. Since then I have been here regularly on private and business trips. I settled here in 2002. Are you an entrepreneur or employed? Entrepreneur. What type of work do you do?

I manage the Russian branch of ElaN Languages, a language service and training provider with headquarters in Belgium. What is your expertise and how can you help our readers? In the nineties I was working in logistics as a regional operations coordinator (FedEx), then I spent a couple of years in recruitment (Mercuri Urval). I’ve always been interested in a variety

of industries and challenging roles. How can I help? I’m confident that we are amongst the best translation and training providers in town. Meaning you can really rely on the style and quality of our work. If you want to learn a language or business skills, face-to-face or online, a pool of very experienced and dedicated trainers and online support programmes will definitely get you there.

Entrepreneur for the last 8 years or so. What type of work do you do? I am involved in two areas, not entirely unrelated. I am partner in a business dealing in country residential property and land development, particular in the Kaluga and Tula regions. Some of our land holdings are agricultural, so you can see the connection to my other business interests. Two years ago, I formed the

International Farmers Club of Russia which provides support to farmers and agribusinesses coming into this market or looking to expand. What is your expertise and how can you help our readers? I have accumulated enormous experience in out-of town property, land acquisition and conversion issues today and, of course, the farmers club is there to help with questions about Russian agriculture.

How long have you been working with Russia? I first came as a university student of Russian in 1972. Then I worked here as the representative of a Swiss trading company in the late seventies and early eighties. I landed back in Moscow with another Swiss company in 1991 and have worked here in one capacity or another ever since. David Morley: david. Are you an entrepreneur morley@agrocontinental.ru or employed?

David Morley

Business

Robert Knights How did you come to be in Moscow? I originally came out here with Mars Confectionary, to set up a service operation here. Of course Russia was a very different place from the UK at the time, but I soon started to like the Russian people, and see the potential here. It was great fun in the early days, for example, I was amazed to find out that the company that we had hired to make specially modified refrigerated trucks for us had painted our logos on the side of the trucks by hand, because they didn’t have any other method. Amazing ingenuity! That kind of ‘do anything mentality’ was inspiring. My family joined me and we lived near the Fedorov eye hospital. After the crisis later that year I moved back to the UK for a short period, and then I returned with Pepsi International Bottlers, to help rebuild their business. Mission accomplished, I went to work for Unilever for four years, a period which encompassed the 1998 crisis. That was a traumatic time, when we had to face the mammoth task of dramatically reducing our warehouse stocks, and then bring our operational costs down by a significant amount. The next year we started bringing Unilever’s manufacturing onshore, to alleviate the effects of another such crisis in the future. After a spell in London and Paris with Newell Rubbermaid’s division Sanford Europe, working as their European Supply Chain Director, I returned in January 2004 and

joined an independent company called ProLogics. It wasn’t until 2008 that we merged our outsourcing business with Work Service. Which quickly became a major market player in Eastern, and Western Europe.

What exactly does Work Service Do in Russia? Our main activities in Russia are: providing outsourced merchandising and sales support solutions, recruitment, field audits and temporary staff. Some clients are very large where we employ several hundred people for them, with operations all over the country, others just need two or three people to promote their product in Moscow. As the Russian retail universe has grown, we’ve grown with it. We work directly with the brand owners or with the retailers. The other side of our business in outsourcing is industrial. For example we have a very large business with Avtoframos, which is Renault, where we are supplying line workers for their production lines. We provide welders, painters, assembly people, a whole range of industrial positions. We help them with probation periods and all that kind of thing. We also have a very extensive forklift truck driver training programme. We have one client now who we are providing 700 people for, and actually this means that we have to find about 10,000 people to find those 700. It’s that kind of scale, because not everybody is suitable, not everybody passes the

test, we have a very large data base of candidates. For our clients to set this up themselves would be a major job. Rotation of people is a big issue here. Medical issues are complex, especially if you are going to be working with fresh food. We operate in over 150 cities for the same client on one project for example. The other thing we do here is classical recruitment; technical positions, finance positions, sales positions, general management positions. I suppose what really cuts us off from the crowd is our ability to come up with solutions for some quite complex servicing problems, sometimes involving very diverse geographical locations and logistics. We enjoy and thrive on helping clients to take their businesses to the next stage and we are equally at home when downsizing and restructuring is required.

How long do you think you are going to be in Russia for? Well I’ve been here now for about 20 years now, I have another 5 years in mind, but I have had that in my mind two or three times. I’ve got some great Russian friends here, this place is a challenging, enjoyable place. It’s certainly a lot cleaner than it used to be from an environmental point of view. You add it all up, and yes, it’s still comfortable being here, I’m happy to be in Moscow, I’m still happy to be part of the community which is full of expat friends, and still happy to spend another 5 years before having to make a decision.

The Truth About IFA’s

re you one of the many expats who are regularly bombarded with phone calls from apparent Independent Financial Advisers (IFA’s) telling you about the opportunities which abound in the market today? There are an abundance of such groups who are often found in areas like Moscow and other Eastern European countries where there are no regulations governing offshore financial advice. Their lack of integrity very often leads to a situation which is open to abuse by some of the more unethical firms who act unscrupulously and endeavour to separate you from your hard earned cash. We know that boiler rooms exist here. A boiler room is an operation, set up to entice expats into making investments which are far from ethical. Sometimes they don’t even exist. They can take several forms but typically will eventually leave your investment valueless. If you make the recommended investment it will ultimately lose all its value just before it is due to mature and just when it was looking good according to the trickster who allured you in. Unfortunately for us all, such operations exist in Russia and cast their evil net far and wide regionally and to many western countries. There are genuine operators here in Moscow who run legitimate consultancy businesses and who

Brian Johnso

introduce expats to opportunities in the offshore markets which, when correctly managed, result in successful investing. There are no direct regulations in Russia, which strictly control offshore investing, although there are related enforceable rules concerning certain types of securities and how they are distributed. However, this remains a grey area, the rules being very different from places such as the UK, Hong Kong and Singapore, where strict regulatory regimes are imposed for the good of both the clients and advisers. These are designed to make sure the investor is protected even in an offshore environment. The result of under-regulation leaves the situation open to abuse from unethical individuals. The financial services industry has thus created pockets of unwanted operators who rely heavily on the ability of persuasive salespersons. Such operators will employ individuals to cold call you and be extremely convincing that they are the biggest and best in the world of offshore investments. If you are approached by one of these how can you be sure they are not from the ghetto of ex plumbers, telephone and door to door gas salesmen from the western world who last week converted to become “professional financial advisers” when they stepped off the plane at Domodedovo

sponsored article

The British International School, Moscow

Education

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needs of international students from over sixty countries. Lessons are conducted in small class sizes of about twenty children. BISM is an accredited examination centre for Cambridge International Examinations, Edexcel, and the IB. To retain this recognition, the school’s procedures and premises are scrutinised by each of these organisations at regular intervals to ensure that strict standards of academic integrity are maintained. BISM is also a member of The Council of International Schools (CIS). The school is regularly inspected by Cambridge Education Ltd, its UK education partner, which is accredited by the UK government to formally inspect schools in the UK and British schools overseas. The last inspection, carried out during the academic year 2012/2013 confirmed that the school provides a quality education under the National Curriculum for England for all ages. Children demonstrated high academic standards in accordance with the requirements of the curriculum. To provide focus for studentcentred learning and high standards of academic achievement, a wellfunctioning and rigorous system of teacher selection is applied. BISM’s teaching staff have all the necessary professional British teaching qualifications. IB requires that all Diploma Programme teachers are additionally trained in the delivery of their subjects

at worldwide or online workshops. The school also delivers a series of in-house professional development courses, to ensure that teachers’ practices are up to date and that they share best practices from around the world. Many of the school’s teachers are IB examiners and several are workshop leaders and members of IB subject review teams. Despite the fact that the British International School long ago became both a well known brand in Russia and abroad and a high-status educational institution synonymous with quality education, we do not intend to stop there. The school is constantly expanding its scope of activities by presenting new opportunities for students. So, in the academic year 2014/2015, we are planning to open a new building designed for senior school students near the ‘Voikovskaya’ Metro station. In the academic year 2013/2014, the school celebrates its 20th anniversary. This important and joyful event will be celebrated on 17th December 2013 in the Svetlanovsky Hall of the Moscow International House of Music with a major gala performance showcasing the artistic talents of the students of our school.

are planning to revive this programme in addition to the existing IB programme, which has been offered at its southern campus for the past ten years. BISM graduates regularly achieve excellent results. Our Cambridge IGCSE pass rate is higher than 90% in the A*-C grade range and average IB Diploma point score has been significantly higher than the world average of 31 out of a possible 45 points for the past eight years. Once again, in the academic years 2010-2013, our students achieved a point score of over 40 which placed them in the top 5% of world IB Diploma results. All other IB Diploma graduates gained admission to their firstchoice universities, including the London School of Economics, Bristol University, Manchester University, St Andrew’s University, King’s College, Warwick University, Imperial College and Royal Holloway, not to mention prestigious universities in Switzerland and the USA. The school provides a thorough process of university counselling to ensure students choose an appropriate degree courses in the UK through the UCAS system and also in the United States, Europe and Asia. Regular contact is maintained with top universities through university fairs which are hosted annually by the school. Our children are successfully educated not only in the senior school, but in the junior school as well. Students follow the National Curriculum for England, which has been modified slightly to meet the

Moscow Personalities

STUART LAWSON

Interview by John Harrison

Stuart Lawson is a well know figure in the both the Russian and foreign banking community. In this interview he talks about Russia and Russians, employment, and the reasons he has lived in Russia for so long. Stuart, what bought you to Moscow? I went where I was told for 25 years. I was with Citibank, and over that time I worked with them in 11 countries. After I arrived here and worked here for some time, and I realized what Russia is, I left Citibank after a spell in London, I returned in 2000 and I’ve been here since then.

Have you ever wanted to leave? Have I ever wanted to leave, or have I ever had to leave? Once I had come back in 2000, I really didn’t have a horizon on how long I would stay, the fact that I am still here in 2013 is really due to a set of circumstances that I would never have foreseen. It’s also, by the way, one of my excuses as why I don’t speak fluent Russian. My horizon in Russia has never been more than two or three years. Yes, after one job or another came to an end, I have wanted to leave, but something always happened. After Citibank came to an end I worked for Delta Bank. That ended, and I didn’t know what to do, then I got a call from Platon Lebedev who said come and work for Menatep, which at the time was Russia’s 5th largest bank. Six weeks after I joined them he went to jail, and I decided that this was not a good sign. So I decided to carry on working there for a while, but basically to leave. Then I got a phone call from Oleg Deripaska asking me if I’d like to run his bank. Each time, I left a company I packed to leave. Then HSBC called and asked if I’d like to be the CEO of HSBC in Russia. HSBC decided to close it’s retail division and I left again. Six months after that I started working for Ernst and Young. I have left the country 5 times and come back 6 times. I went to my mover’s wedding. I think what’s interesting about this series of assignments is that none of them had any connection to the others. I think it’s very important to stay in the game, of course Moscow is not an easy place to stay in the game if you’re not actually working, a lot of people pack up and leave. But once you’re gone you’re gone, you become yesterday’s news. The reason that I was able to come back

with Ernst and Young, was that when I left in June 2010, I had committed myself to writing and then teaching the risk module for the Skolkova MBA programme. It was when I was back in Moscow that the next opportunity came up. If you are sitting in your garden far away, don’t expect your phone to ring, because it probably won’t. I have now expanded my teaching work to teach at MGIMO, the Finance Academy, basically trying to pass on to Russians some of the experiences I have had. One of my courses is on Strategic Risk Management, and the other, which I really enjoy is a course of leadership, where I talk about, first of all, the difference between leadership and management. I found that the Russians have soaked it up, they are truly interested in the practical side of things. The fact that I have had so long as a practitioner is something that they find interesting.

What is your general impression of Russians? I have spent longer in this country than I have in any other. I wouldn’t have spent so much time here if I hadn’t liked the people who were around me. The criticism would be that you spent so much time here because you were able to make a lot of money. As I have said in a class; you have to be careful what you ask for. If you set your goal to be to earn lots of money, you might get that, but what you won’t get is the satisfaction of having an interesting life. Of course things are good here in terms of remuneration, but I don’t think that’s ever been a driver for me. I am concerned about the interests of the job, the dynamics of the market, the ability as a foreigner to take part in some pretty important local issues which you wouldn’t do in other countries. A fundamental issue is that this is a country that has a deep history that is facing significant issues, but which isn’t starting from scratch. It all started back in the 90s, from the wrong place; after three generations of communism. But the fact is that it had a culture, it had a fundamental academic background, it had well trained people, it had 99% literacy, it had all of these things. It just needed to

Moscow Personalities put them into a certain sort of order. So no, it isn’t about money. One of the things that I’ve felt about business life is that you need to have an external world. If your life is hermetically sealed in the business that you do, you run a risk because if something happens to that world, that’s it. So I’ve been involved in weird and wonderful things with some amazing Russians, like the Tango world, not that I can dance the Tango, but I did try. Then I got involve in sponsoring them and so forth. I also got involved in the art and music worlds in Moscow. And then even rock’n’roll, I have friend who is a famous rock’n’roller. All of this has really helped enjoy Russia.

Could Moscow really become an International Financial Centre? I think that an International Financial Centre concept is directional. Nobody thinks this is going to come about overnight. I think that this is a dialogue between Russia and various countries, in particularly with Britain and the City of London. This has allowed a series of work streams to happen on certain issues. There is more progress in some areas than others, the important thing is that there is dialogue. I think that if you look at where we are today versus where we were four years ago, you will see that significant progress has been made.

Are people’s stereotypes about Russia in the West slowly being destroyed or getting worse? Nothing fills a newspaper or crime novel than a cold war story or a guy with a Russian accent. Again and again this caricature of Russia and Russians appears in the press, sometimes in the serious press. In every big country, and Russia is a big country, bad things happen. If you sit down and focus on these, you can generate a list of very negative things. I think the important thing is to acknowledge where there are issues which need to be dealt with, not to dodge them. But also, for heaven’s sake, why can’t we talk about what it’s like to be in Gorky Park these days, as compared to what it was like three years ago? Let’s talk about cycling around Sparrow Hills on an autumn day. Or being in a restaurant and being surrounded by normal Russians doing normal things and being very pleasant about it. There are no bears on the street with vodka and guns.

Any regrets about things that you have liked to do but did not manage to do in Russia so far? The language, it is clear that if I had known that I was going to stay here this long, I would have treated it more seriously. I’ve been lucky to go round the regions, when I was working for Deripaska, but I haven’t been travelling as much as I used to, and this is something I regret. Not a regret is the fact that I have a 15 years old son who comes here all the time, my regret is that he can’t spend more time here.

Moscow Personalities

The Perennial

John Roche

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John Ha Interview by

Has working and living in Russia changed you as a person? It’s all about flexibility. I’ve always had an ability to multitask, to tackle something else within a related sphere. For example, somebody came to me and said: “You’re a hotelier, we need hotel standards, can you help us out by formulating them?” So I wrote some hotel standards for Russia, and that involved training programmes and creating branding. It was one of those occasions where people said: “Well John might know.” I had a lot of connections in Moscow, so I was able to arrange things quite easily.

Does that mean that multitasking is a really good thing to be able to do in Moscow? There are many many opportunities in Moscow, and the longer I stayed here, the more opportunities I saw. The one thing I didn’t want to do was to be

Photos of John as Santa by Sasha Kachkaev

involved in things that were boring. It’s never been boring, it’s always been challenging. It’s not an easy place to live, but it’s a lot easier now than it used to be. If we parachute ourselves back 20 years, one of the biggest differences is that it wasn’t so difficult to find people, because there were only about four places where people used to meet. It pushed us all together, and you all helped each other. When I first came here, the first things I was involved in was marketing a pub called the Red Lion. This was a challenge, because my Russian was limited to what I had learned in James Bond movies. I used to communicate using card tricks and by doing tricks with glasses. People said: “come and see this crazy Englishman down at the pub”; and they did in great numbers. I was very fortunate. Mick Lange who now runs AAA English and I worked together and he knew a company that supplied Karaoke equipment,

which we installed in the pub. The pub was mobbed, as karaoke was something new in Moscow then. There was this short Japanese guy, who was a regular who stood a little way back with the radio microphone and when his music came he changed completely into Nat King Cole. It was spookily brilliant. So it’s not just the things I’ve done, but it’s the friends I’ve made and the delight of being asked to be involved in things. The crisis in 1998 was not so easy for everybody. The Scottish Society which had been going for three years, and was run then by Tom Crozier who was leaving, had a problem getting people to keep it going. I was asked to help out at the St. Andrew’s ball. The Chieftain that year was an Irishman, Michael O’Leary. Anyway the ball was at the Radisson Slavyansky and it was huge, and very amusing. They did a Full Mc Monty, it was hilarious. Up until that time I had spent seven days a week working,

Moscow Personalities incredibly busy, doing different things, and it was really nice to be involved in something like this. Then the Irish Club asked me to get involved, in the days when they took over the New Arbat to have their parades, I became known as the kind of Master of Ceremonies of Choice. “John’ll do it, he doesn’t talk too much, he’ll keep things moving.” And that takes me back to my hotelier days before I came to Russia, when being toastmaster and master of ceremonies was part of the deal.

Presumably you must like Russians or you wouldn’t be here. But what do you do when things go wrong? What advice would you give? I think it’s all about honesty. A Russian proverb explains a lot: ‘I’d rather be slapped in the face with the truth than kissed with a lie.’ If things are going wrong, or have gone wrong, that’s it, that’s a fact. If everyone knows exactly what the situation is, and acknowledges it, then you can solve the problem or move on from there. I have been involved with the Taganka charity for children for the past 10 years, and I was there just this Saturday. The mums were there, and it’s not easy for them because some of their children will never grow up. It’s all about honesty, which you can see in their faces too.

Do you prescribe to the current image of Russia from abroad? I don’t see it as being any different from anywhere else really.

The alphabet maybe is different. I think it’s easy to stereotype.

Have you had any really bad times here? Health was a bit of a concern at one stage. Although medical treatment can be very expensive here, my trust in Russian doctors has been reinforced. In general, I have been very fortunate here. My life has been interesting.

How long do you plan to stay here? Do you have a long-term strategy? I did five years plans, at the end of the first five years, I thought: ‘will I be here in another five years? I don’t know.’ I never had a plan to leave, so therefore I had a plan to stay by default. There have been a succession of really interesting things which have kept me here. I worked abroad in France, Germany and Switzerland before coming here. To be in one place for so long is remarkable. Yes, I could go to the South Coast of the UK where my family now is, and I suppose that one day I’ll ‘retire’ in inverted commas, but when, I don’t know. I think I need to work in England for a while before I could respectfully retire, to re-acclimatise. I remember being in New York after Moscow, and the taxi drivers there would say: “slow down!” I think every day has a challenge for me. As long as it stays like that, I will stay. Obviously this relates to employment, and it will be a choice that ultimately will

be taken from me, as opposed to one that I can make. But in the mean time I enjoy it, I love it. Why did you grow a beard? I used to have a goatee type thing. Then in 2005 or thereabouts, I grew it for Christmas, to be Santa. In the pub a month later the idea came of selling my beard for charity, so that’s what we did, and we raised quite a lot of cash! So it used to be grow the beard then chop it off in January. I have now become a really popular Santa and invited to appear in a large number of places from the Irish Embassy to hospitals and schools. A few years after my Santa debut I decided to stay in Santa mode all year round, although I may need to trim it down next year if we have another really hot spell in the summer. Final words of wisdom: It’s a big city, a small village, a great place if you come at it with good grace. Then it will delight you. It can be a challenge like any big city, and I’ve lived and worked in a number. But there are some great people here, the friendships you develop in a situation of diversity like this brings out strength and unity. Also I think it is really important to get involved. If you can do something to support the less able, or do anything like go to a school and give a talk about something that you are interested in, in a language that they would love to learn, do it. If you have time, or you can make time, the rewards on your investments are going to be huge.

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Retro John Harrison

1992

1992 started with a new country and new hopes. As the pre-revolutionary Russian tricolour was hoisted above the Kremlin, it seemed that anything was possible. But the tidal wave which swept away the old system, also swept up nasty deep-sea creatures which, once on the surface, clamoured for their share of the spoils. A right wing revenge was only to be expected after Yeltsin’s resounding victory. According to VTsIOM statistics, Yeltsin’s support was halved during the first three months of 1992. And yet somehow the man held on to power and the country continued to move further away from communism, albeit in a fragmented way. Yelstin at first bulldozed ahead with shock therapy reforms. Yegor Gaidar was appointed first deputy prime minister on the 2nd of March, prices of consumer goods were freed resulting in runaway inflation, and denationalisation of the country’s assets continued. The crime rate doubled, corruption spread after privatisation, and tax evasion became rampant. The rouble depreciated on a daily basis; we bought all things foreign including foodstuffs. Russia’s pride, the army, began its decline from 2.72 million men in 1992 to one million in 1999. The G7 was not interested in renegotiating Russia’s Soviet debts. Foreigners flew in by the plane load to start businesses in the wild east. For many of them,

if Russia’s streets were not paved with gold, at least they glittered. Money was made, but the real winners were Russians who knew how to play the system from the inside. As Gaidar planned a second wave of price liberalisation, this time aimed at the oil and energy sector, criticism on the President became venomous. Yeltsin began to distance himself from radical reform. Without the President behind him, Gaidar and champions of liberal political principles were severely weakened. The few leading liberal survivors such as Sakharov’s widow Yelena Bonner and Galina Starovoita became voices crying in the wilderness. Yelstin managed to successfully unite the country-against him, and the threat of civil war was temporarily diffused. Ensconced in the Kremlin, the emperor had found some new clothes. There were thorns in the cloak, however. Nursultan Nazarbaev, the President of Kazakhstan attempted in mid1992 to recreate the USSR by spearheading an effort to form a ‘Defence Union’ of seven former Soviet republics, a ‘supra-national rouble’ and ‘union bank.’ Arkady Volsky and his powerful industrial lobby, which allegedly accounted for 65% of industrial output in 1991 supported Nazarbaev, as did, not surprisingly, former Soviet president Mikhail Gorbachev. The ‘Defence Union’ failed, but it gave rise to a new political grouping in Moscow: the ‘Civic

Union’ which was formed in June 1992. This bought together Arkaday Volsky, Vice-President Alexandre Rutskoi and Nikolai Travkin, chairman of the 50,000 member Democratic Party of Russia. The ‘Civic Union’ tried and succeeded in slowing down reform. Yeltsin had no intention of giving in to the demands of his Vice President and the increasingly outspoken Russian Supreme Soviet chairman Ruslan Khasbulatov who happened to come from Chechnya. In October, another right wing organisation, the ‘Front for National Salvation’ aimed straight for the jugular and clearly stated its aims to unseat Yeltsin. Later that month, Yeltsin tried to outlaw the organisation, but the newly established constitutional court ruled that a final decision should be postponed until February 1993. The arrest list that this group drew up replicated that of the KGB during the 1991 coup, but included a few more, such as Gorbachev, Volsky, Gaidar, Kozyrev, Chubais, Sobchak and others. The President began to show an authoritarian side. Slowly but surely, he awarded himself the very perks he had castigated before 1991. The absence of a stable multi-party system increased Yeltsin’s freedom of manoeuvre in a country where the ruler or his party owns most of the land. In late January 1992, the KGB took back its vital function of monitoring the political loyalty of army officers, and in June once again became the custodians of the

Retro

country’s border guards, albeit temporarily. Yelstin’s new head of the KGB, Viktor Barannikov turned native as soon as he entered Lubyanka and started defending the KGB’s record during Soviet times. This time the KGB was also interested in the commercialisation of its services, particularly in the export of raw materials. In November, the communists, led by Gennadi Zyuganov obtained permission to use some of their old premises. Gone was the atheism and internationalism, but the commitment to Lenin and even Stalin remained. Komsomolskaya Pravda rightly called the Seventh Congress, ‘a major political defeat’ for the Russian President. At one stage, he was abandoned by the heads of the Russian Defence Ministry, the Ministry of State Security and the MVD who in effect sided with the Congress against him. An attempted vote of confidence failed by just 72 votes out of the 689 needed. Yeltsin’s battles were by no means over; in fact this was all only a prelude to what happened in 1993. Nevertheless, people began to get used to the new freedoms. The era of open politics, where Russians actually identified with their leaders, a period which only lasted a few short years under Gorbachev, was drawing to a close. Instead there were bickering, angry men who shouted at each other, and who called themselves politicians. They commanded less and less respect.

Those were the days my friend…

1992

Autumn

h Frederickovic

ine months earlier the unthinkable had occurred, the USSR had formally dissolved on Christmas Day. New and renewed independent states had since emerged and through old allegiances some were aligning in the form of the Commonwealth of Independent States. The dissolution had lead to a degree of turmoil both within the new Russian Government, which had inherited the responsibilities and debts of the old USSR, and on the City’s streets. In June the young Minister for the Economy Yegor Gaidar had been appointed Prime Minister by the new President Boris Yeltsin. Gaidar immediately moved to introduce liberalization and price reforms, for most citizens with devastating effect. The real rouble exchange rate had increased from around ten to the dollar a year earlier to one hundred and sixty, and State subsidies and price controls were removed. Older people suddenly found their life savings decimated, prices in the shops were soaring and street stalls had sprung up everywhere with people selling anything they had of value just to earn enough to eat. Western commentators wrote that the shock therapy was essential to rebuild the economy, the alternative being rationing and martial law. The situation looked desperate for so many who only a year earlier had been celebrating Gorbachev’s, and later Yeltsin’s, victory over the hardliners and dreaming of their new freedoms.

Retro

The chaos and disarray extended to all parts of the economy and the once mighty Aeroflot, which had been the largest airline in the world, had begun to break up as had the USSR with the emergence of regional airlines or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;baby flots.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; As I was to find out, the quality of service offered by these regional airlines was as diverse as the range of destinations. The newly independent Georgia was not a part of the CIS but I was to go there for business meetings. Georgia was enduring even more upheaval than Russia with the first President having recently been driven out of office to be replaced by the Georgian State Council headed by Eduard Shevardnadze, the former Soviet Foreign Minister. Loyalties in the country remained divided, tensions were high and we warned that a curfew was being operated daily from 2200 until 0600. Little surprise then that at Moscow airport we were searched for weapons as we boarded the plane. Of greater surprise, for me at least, was that the passenger in front was found to be carrying an automatic pistol and after some minutes of negotiation and the mandatory bribe was able to keep the gun and ammunition in his jacket. I felt nervous as I considered the consequences of an accidental discharge puncturing the pressurized aircraft hull at altitude. We landed just after 2030, waited for bags and began the drive into Tbilisi. There were road blocks everywhere, manned by armed soldiers and militia. The atmosphere was tense. As we approached the town centre it was a

race to see which would occur first, arrival at the hotel or the curfew. We parked and banged on locked doors to persuade the management to let us in. Fortunately we were greatly assisted by the representatives of the Georgian State Oil Company who we were to meet and who were already inside. After settling in I thanked them for having arranged to take rooms for the night as they too were now curfew bound. They looked surprised at my assumption, they could not possibly afford to stay at this Western renovated hotel, they were going to sit in the lobby all night. When I asked through the interpreter why they had felt it necessary to be there to meet me given a curfew was underway they were even more surprised. It was unthinkable that they should not be there, they had invited me and I was their guest! I realized I had a lot to learn about Georgian customs and hospitality and the first lesson commenced almost immediately. After a brief business discussion they produced enough food, wine and cha cha for a small army and I participated in my first Supra or Georgian dinner complete with an appointed Tamada who directed affairs and called for the toasts. It was a surreal experience drinking honey-flavoured Vodka and watching tracer shells arc through the night sky while listening to the rattle of automatic weapons and the occasional crash of something heavier. After two days of meetings, and always being followed around by Supra, my interpreter, Andrey and I left Tbilisi and drove back past the roadblocks to the airport. The security was far more relaxed in the

Retro afternoon sun than it had been at night with soldiers dozing in the shade as if it were half time in this giant game of insurgency. We boarded the plane first courtesy of my foreign citizenship. The old Intourist practice of checking in foreigners separately was still being employed in Georgia. After a considerable wait, more and more passengers boarded and the heat in the plane became first uncomfortable and then almost unbearable. Children were crying as yet more people squeezed in, each one carrying what appeared to be their entire personal belongings. With the seats full, people stood in the aisle until at last the flow had stopped and arguments over tickets and seating began. The flight had clearly been oversold, no doubt someone having pocketed the difference. The Captain appeared and, Andrey explained, declared that he would not take off until the standing passengers had disembarked. This resulted in a stand off until three armed militia in uniform arrived, led by an officer in jeans, a leather jacket and with his pistol drawn. The Captain began explaining that the standing passengers had to leave when one of them, a big bearded man, called out to the leather jacket. They looked at each other, realized they were relatives and began hugging and back-slapping before the big bearded man introduced the rest of his family. To the dismay of the other passengers they then went to the entrance for a cigarette to catch up on old times probably. At this point I simply had to use the toilet and my worst suspicions were confirmed. After being on the runway for so long with so many passengers the single unit was already almost full to overflowing and no amount of flushing would dispose of the contents. Then I heard more commotion. Andrey explained the leather jacket had decided that the standing passengers, mostly his relatives, should remain aboard and turned on the Captain and ordered him to fly informing him if he did not there would be dire consequences. To my horror the Captain acquiesced and minutes later we were hurtling down the runway to gain enough speed to get airborne, the aisle packed with baggage and eight standing passengers. No self-respecting Georgian back then travelled without several days supply of food and cha cha and the initial fright of flying under such conditions was gradually forgotten as Andrey and I were invited by neighbouring passengers to share their supplies. Someone began playing an accordion and next complete strangers began singing national folk songs in unison. It was actually becoming an enjoyable experience until we neared Moscow, the Captain spoke over the radio and we began our descent. This caused the contents at the rear to flow into the cabin and down the plane. Thankfully after some minutes we landed safely as passengers struggled to keep their feet, their children and belongings above the filth. The stench was awful but the circumstances in some way reflected the disarray in the country. It was certainly a flight I will never forget.

My Moscow

Bolshaya Dmitrovka and Nikolskaya Ulitsa

John Harrison

ave you been out walking round the centre of Moscow recently? Noticed the changes? The cars are being slowly but gradually forced off streets which were only recently hell on earth for pedestrians and drivers alike. I took a Saturday after noon walk and rediscovered two such streets: Bolshaya Dmitrovka and Nikolskaya Ulitsa. Not quite all the cars on Bolshaya Dmitrovka have been banned, because there are quite a few government buildings on this street, and no self respecting senior official is going to walk to work in any country. Orange car evacuators, wait with engines running at strategic points up and down the street. Meanwhile the street itself has suddenly started to reveal its glory, and Muscovites have started, cautiously at first, to claim back this street for themselves. Starting from the North end of the street walking South, a vista of impressively clean mostly pre-revolutionary architecture sweeps down to the red steeples of the Kremlin. Why didn’t I notice the beauty of this place before? Could it be because of the c a r s? There are a few people walking in the narrowed road between the widened pavements. On the right is the latest home of ‘Gastronomic House of Hediard’ which moved from its spacious but empty pervious location on Sadovaya Kudrinskaya. Further down is the Moskovsky Musikalny Teatr, where you can catch a highly recommended version of Nutcracker during the New Year’s holiday. On, past the Generalny Propkuratora of the Russian Federation, and then I am in top level boutique land which is making this street one of the most expensive and fastest growing retail areas in the capital. The exclusive Nobu

restaurant is at number 20, and so are a whole range of brand boutiques such as Stefano Ricci and Prada, as the street crosses the also pedestrianized Kammergersky Pereulok. One of Moscow’s only vegetarian and vegan restaurants with the name: Fresh is here, which is indeed refreshing news. My publisher tells me that he enjoyed an amazing American salad here with avocado adorned with a totally delicious dressing, then Falafel and an Italian salad. All very good! Further down, almost at the Southern end of the street on the left is the Moscow Operetta Theatre where holiday specials: Mowgli, Cinderella and Graf Orlov can be enjoyed this December. On the other side of the road one passes the heavy red walls of the Novy Manege, built in the end of the XIX century in the pseudoRussian style. Novy Manage is still functioning today but overshadowed as far as exhibition spaces go, by its gigantic relative, the Manege on Manezhnaya Square. The sound and aggression of the traffic hits you hard as you come out onto Okhotny Ryad, however respite is not far away in the form of an underground subway over to the Teatralny Metro station’s Southern exit. Up through a winding pathway past the suggestively named ‘Vanil’noe Nebo’ ‘Vanilla Sky’ bar and restaurant which must be one of Moscow’s best and least exploited locations for an eatery, and out into Nikolskaya Ulitsa. This street is another example of classical architecture, rich in history and deep cultural intrigue. A whole book could be written about this street. Here, at number 11, you can find the remains of the Nikolsky Greek Monastery. The building on this site became the centre of a small Greek colony in the city during Ivan The Terrible’s reign, until the

My Moscow main building was destroyed in the 1930s. The neighbouring Zaikonospasskiy Monastery faired only slight better. Number 15 now houses a department of the Russian State Humanitarian University. The architectural styles of the gateway defies description, but seems to be made of up of an eclectic mixture of Gothic and Modern styles, a feast for any architecture student in Moscow. The building used to house the Synod Printing House, where the first book in Russia was printed; the Acts of the Apostles in 1564. Here also, in 1703, the first Russian newspaper, Vedomosti was printed. At number 17, the Pokrovsky Musical Theatre can be found, which currently boasts an impressive repertoire of operas, including one of Benjamin Britten’s works for families ‘Let’s Make an Opera’. Further up the street towards Lyubyanskay Ploschad, The Nikolskaya Plaza fits in uncomfortably well with its

ancient neighbours. Here you can find (on the left and side of the building) the re-branded Papa’s and of course the Tibet Indian restaurant where some of us meet on Tuesdays for a dose of curry. Almost opposite the Nikolskaya Plaza I found a genuine ‘hole in the wall,’ the Lapsha Panda café, the interior of which is a tiny concrete space carved out from under a stairwell, resembling a bomb shelter. Here you can buy real baodze, cooked whilst you watch, and Chinese soups for unheard of prices in today’s Moscow. In tune with the Moscow Mayor’s drive to brighten up the city, most of the buildings on Nikolskaya Ulitsa and Bolshaya Dmitovskaya are now lit up at night, giving the architectural ensembles a surreal, almost Disney land effect. Now that the cars have been forced out of these and other central Moscow streets you can walk, eat, catch a show in parts of Moscow that we knew existed but never really got to know.

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My Moscow

An adventure discovering Patriarshiye Prudy ko

Irina Kirichen

oscow is developing very fast. The city is full of money and opportunities bringing an increasing flow of tourists and foreign businessmen. Obviously our welcome guests want to entertain themselves in this beautiful city. So where should you visit first? Maybe Patriarshiye Prudy (Patriarshiye Pond). Patriarshiye Prudy are located in a very center of a Moscow. Here you can enjoy all the gloss of Russian capital. Beautiful girls, fabulous cars, luxurious shops, delicious food in high-profile restaurants. Women dressed in a nice and classy way, expats having coffee and talking business, the Jews walking from the local Synagogue... Life is beautiful, expensive and colourful in the narrow streets and lanes of Patriarshiye Prudy. Many pivotal historical moments took place exactly here. Famous Fanni Kaplan a Russian revolutionary who attempted to assassinate Vladimir Lenin lived here. Also, the mansion of Lavrentiy Petrovich Beria, Stalin’s closest ally, some say henchman is located nearby, on Malaya Nikitskaya, where, others say, he was disposed of when his time had come. This area has a lot of secrets and mysterious stories to tell. The action of the greatest novel ever: ‘Master and Margarita’ by Mikhail Bulgakov starts right here.

As the novel begins: ‘…At the hour of the hot spring sunset two citizens appeared at the Patriarshiye Prudy.’ The Devil and his crew started their fun right here. What is more, they were living right there, in the ‘naughty apartment’ which you can visit, by the way. Bulgakov’s museum (Bolshaya Sadovaya,10) is in the neighbourhood. This is a flat designed and furnished in accordance to Bulgakov’s description. Bulgakov’s actual lodgings were next door. In the autumn of 1921, the writer and his first wife Tatiana Lappa moved into a small room of a huge communal apartment. Here he wrote his first literary works. And although he moved to another place in 1924, the very image of the weird communal flat haunted Bulgakov and can be found in his various literary endeavours (‘Psalm’, ‘Moonshine Lake’…) and finally, ‘The Master and Margarita,’ the novel which immortalized the house and its inhabitants, and included certain references to Stalin. That was just the beginning of your cultural program on Patriarshiye Prudy. Now it’s about time to enjoy some art. Modern art. Moscow Museum of Modern Art concentrates its activities exclusively on the art of the 20th and 21st centuries. Today the Museum has five venues in the historic centre of Moscow. Two

of them are close to the Patriarshiye Prudy: a vast five-storey building at Ermolaevsky Lane 17 and a spacious gallery at Tverskoy Boulevard 9. The Museum’s permanent collection represents the main stages in the formation and development of the avant-garde. The majority of exhibits are by Russian artists, but the display also includes some works by renowned Western masters. For instance, you can enjoy works by Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger, Joan Miró and Giorgio De Chirico, along with sculptures by Salvador Dalí, Armand and Arnaldo Pomodoro, paintings by Henri Rousseau and Françoise Gilot, and installations by Yukinori Yanaga. Patriarshiye Prudy preserves Russian history and represents Russian culture. Do you want to know Moscow (and Russia) better? Think about that feeding the swans that swimming gracefully on the pond, at least in the summer, or whilst drinking coffee in one of cute cafés. Maybe the neighbourhood will inspire you to learn more about Russia. Maybe not. Either way, Patriarshiye Prudy is a must-see. Hope you enjoy it. Irina Kirichenko is a writer, translator and Russian language tutor.

Moscow Good Food Club

OSTERIA della piazza BIANCA Aggregate MGFC food scores (out of 10): Food Quality: 8 Quality and suitability of the drinks: 9 Service Standards: 9 General rating of the meal: 8.5

Moscow Good Food Club

enuine, warm Italian hospitality welcomed members of the Moscow Good Food Club to the Osteria della Piazza Bianca for their September meeting. The Osteria della Piazza Bianca is located in the White City Square which is now becoming quite a centre for restaurants and bars. The eclectic mix of Russians and expats members were greeted personally by Salvatore the Executive Chef and Giovanni the pasta and risotto chef. These artists created an ambience of superb food and hospitality so typical to an

Italian restaurant (but sadly missing in Moscow). Members were tempted to a range of tasty Italian snacks as they arrived accompanied by a refreshing Prosecco. When called for dinner they eagerly took to their seats in anticipation of the special meal to come! The third member of the Osteria della Piazza Bianca team, Gabriele the sommelier had prepared special wines to accompany the dishes prepared by his colleagues. These were young and fresh and most complementary to the dishes. Starting with Red Tuna tartar beautifully presented with a trio

of goat cheese and followed by an amazingly rich risotto with mint, mushrooms and prawns, MGFC members had to remember to keep space for the main course of wonderfully fresh see bass filet with sautĂŠed fresh artichokes. A spectacular dessert rounded off an amazing Italian experience. Whilst new and rather brash in a downtown city style, Osteria della Piazza Bianca offers superb fresh Italian cuisine with friendly service. The keys to the success of this new establishment are the most amenable chefs and sommelier who constantly check on all guests from start to end.

Moscow Good Food Club

Moscow Good Food Club members have to work hard for their food! Not only do they have to share their opinions on the food, but also answer a question or two about living in Moscow. The evening’s question was: Sergey Sobyanin has been recently re-elected as Mayor of Moscow.

Table 1 Glen Collins, Country Manager, Turner: clamping vehicles should be reinstalled, signs on the walls in the Metro to be in English as well as Russian, air ambulances should be introduced, a fine should be introduced for spitting, people should be made to smile more, proper public toilets should be built. When I first came to Moscow it was 11 roubles to go to the toilet, it’s now 30. All new buildings to have compulsory underground car parks.

What is your ‘wish list’ of the 5 main changes that you would like to see him make to improve the quality of our lives in Moscow?

Table 2 Lucy Kenyon, public health nurse: 24 hour metro, drivers to move their cars to the side of the road when there

is an accident, Russian state schools should be opened to expats, people who jump red lights should be fined, all street markets should come back so that local people can sell their produce from their dachas. We want faster trains to the airport, and air traffic at Domodedova should be limited so that the airport doesn’t get clogged up. Table 3 Simon Scotting, Director of Shoreline: friendlier policemen, no more hot water stoppages during the summer, and shorter winters please. Table 4 Mike Winn: less road works, more questionnaires in restaurants.

Food News

Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

he Moscow Bailliage of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs increased membership at it’s Induction Ceremony held recently in the ballroom of the Radisson Royal. Guests of honour included Madam VicePresident Marie Jones and Ari-Pekka Parviainen, Bailli Delegue of Finland Ari-Pekka who officiated the traditional induction ceremony. The Chaîne is an International gastronomic association that honours the preservation of the traditions and practices of the old French guild in a contemporary and International context. Members have to be inducted at one of these official induction ceremonies and are then awarded their colourful ribbons that are to be worn at all official events. The Moscow Bailliage hold regular gastronomic events in Moscow and members can also participate at worldwide events.

Moscow Good Food Club

MUZEY Aggregate MGFC food scores (out of 10): Food Quality: 9 Quality and suitability of the drinks: 8 Service Standards: 9 General rating of the meal: 8.5

n a dark, wet Autumn evening, the bar and MUZEY, next to the Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy, received Moscow Good Food Club’s (MGFC) members for their October meeting with smiles and a marvellous Aperol Spritzer. Several MGFC members were taken aback by the size of this place which boasts a superb view of the Moscow International House of Music. The design is a fusion of classical and modern, with high, comfortable chairs and soft lighting. Art-house neon lights on the ceiling of the bar area somehow work well together with expressive paintings on the walls.

Executive Chef, Marco Lachetta prepared a special Italian food degustation featuring 4 courses of his specialities accompanied by appropriate wines. The first course, Carpaccio with Salmon set the tone of the evening. This wasn’t simply a thinly sliced salmon Carpaccio, it was salmon plus raspberry, passion fruit and coconut, accompanied by Prosecco Fantinel Extra Dry. The evening was clearly going to be a gastronomic adventure, as the second course, risotto with tomato bisque, mozzarella di Buffala, muzzancole and tartufo proved. This was followed by a fusilli which had a very original flavour, made with Marco’s special ‘Spelta’ flour.

We were then treated to some superbly cooked Australian Angus beef sirloin with mushrooms. Comments such as: ‘the most deliciously cooked steak I have ever eaten in Moscow’ resounded around the tables. The Panna Cotta with Wasabi which was served up as desert was by all accounts one of the most bizarre and amazing deserts some guests have experienced. Brightly coloured, it was reminiscent of an Andy Warhol poster, and contained layer after layer of exquisite taste explosions. The Limoncello from southern Italy was suitably strong and sweet to provide a final closing drink to a great evening.

Moscow Good Food Club

Moscow Good Food Club Guests mused over the question of the evening:

Winter is approaching! What preparations do you feel are the highest priority to make winter in Moscow more survivable? Owing to the increasing number of participants, space does not permit printing all the many and varied suggestions. Here are a selection: “… a good group of friends to go out with”, “...a robust sense of hope”, “…a holiday somewhere sunny”, “to block off part of the Moscow river where it splits, the skinny part, and leave that frozen for ice skating, barbeques, leisure…”, “more cosy MGFC gatherings…”, “a very good winter coat and a shapka, a trip to the banya…”

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants

Moscow

now offers so many wonderful restaurants and great bars. Our aim is to provide you with Moscow’s most extensive listings of Restaurants and Bars. In this issue it is an A-Z format Also Available on: –

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

Our

wonderful researchers continue to work hard to produce this list, however if your restaurant/ bar is not listed, please contact us, and you will be in the next issue.

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants 02 Lounge

3 Tverskaya The Ritz-Carlton Moscow M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

1-2-3 Cafe

Shchipkovskii Per. M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Aloha Bar

Accenti

Alrosa

Multiple Locations M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

7, Kropotkinsky per. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Author’s cuisine, Italian, Japanese, $$$

1001 night

Acienda

31 kor.1, Bratislavskaya ul. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $

11/1 Burger Bar

15/2, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: American, $$

1920

10/2 str.2b,Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $

3 Rooms

84/32 kor.1, Profsoyuznaya St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

32.05

3 Karetniy ryad M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $

7 sisters

18/1 Olimpiyskiy pr. (Hotel Renessans) M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $

A la fourchette

11/7, Sormovsky proezd M. Ryazansky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$

A&B Cafe

8, Tulskaya bol. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

A. F. Koni

9/1 Novaya Basmannaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

A.V.E.N.U.E.

8 km of RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse,Barvikha Luxury Village M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: French, Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$$

Abricol

Lipeckaya 7a M. Tsaritsyno Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$

Academia Cafe & Pizzeria

2/1, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Academy

39 Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Brazilian, Spanish, Cuban, Latin American, Mexican, Portuguese, $$$

Adriatico

3, Blagoveschensky Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Africa

10, 2nd Vladimirskaya St. M. Perovo Cuisine: African, Georgian, Mediterranean, $$

Ahtuba

1a Nijegorodskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Aiko

24 Frunzenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$

Aist

8/1, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

Akademicheskiy 1 Donskaya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Alazani

11/15 Volochaevskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$

Alenky Tsvetochek

Alter Ego

Profsoyuznaya St. 152/2 M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Russian, $$

Alye Parusa

66 Aviatsionnaya St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Amarcord

6 Pokrovka St. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

American Bar and Grill

14, Kirovogradskaya M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: American, $$

American Bar and Grill

2 bld.1, 1st TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

AMG cafe dj bar

13a Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Amigo Migel

47 Leningradskiy prospekt M. Aeroport Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

Amstel

2, Kievskiy vokzal square (Evropeyskiy) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $

Amstel Bar

2, Dnepropetrovskaya ul (Yujniy) M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: European, $

Alioli

Amsterdam

All-Time Bar

7/5 bld.2, Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Allegro

Building 8, 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$

4, Ilinka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Dutch, European, $$$

Ananas (Pineapple)

11 Generala Beloborodova St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$

AnderSon

74 bld.8, Leningradsky Prospect M. Sokol Cuisine: European, Confectionery, $$

Building 2, 23 1st

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

4/2 Stroileley Ul. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

4, 1st Kazachii Per. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$

6/5 Kostyakova St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Jewish, European, $$ Ulitsa Neglinaya, 8/10 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Spanish, $$

ANDIAMO

38 bld.1, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$

“Classy & relaxed café and restaurant. Excellent cuisine and extensive wine list”

Andiamo

10 N.Maslovka M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Andiamo

53/6 Ostojenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$

Andreas

Kutuzovsky Prospekt 12 M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Anfilada

Olympic Ave, 16, M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian,Mixed, $$$

Angello

60-letiya Oktyabrya Prospekt 3 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Mediterranean, Japanese, European, Italian, $$$

Anna Mons

3 Krasnokazarmennaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Fish, $$

Annenfeld

17 Uralskiy St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, East, $

Annyushka Traktir Chistoprudny Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$$

ANT-25

24 Rusakovskaya St.(Holiday Inn Moscow Sokolniki ,25 floor) M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Apple Bar & Restaurant

11 Malaya Dmitrovka (Hotel Golden Apple) M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Apropos

2 Frolov Per. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, European, $$$

Aquarelle

36 Krasnaya Presnya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, $

Ararat Park Hyatt

4 Neglinnaya ul., Ararat Park Khayat Moskva Hotel, 10th floor M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, $$$

Arbat

12 Plotnikov Per. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, Russian, $$

Argo

19 Melnikova St. M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, Russian, $$

Argument cafe

41, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Aristocrat

6 bld.2, Lokomotivny Proezd M. Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Cuisine: armenian, georgian, caucasian, mexican, european, $$

Arkhitektor

29/1, Proezd Dezhneva M. Otradnoye Cuisine: Turkish, $$

20 M. Nikitskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

Aozora

Arshin Mal Alan

Apartment

Art-Cafe Etre

Antaliya

Leninsky Pr 38 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Japanese, $$$ 12/6 Savvinskiy Bol. per M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

152/2 bld.2, Profsoyuznaya M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Azeri, Fusion, $$ 2/14, Lopukhinsky Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Artefact

Bar 1920

Beef Bar

Baan Thai

Barashka

Beef Reef

11 bld.34, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, $

Balaclava Avenue, 7 M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Baba Marta

Barbados

Art’s Palace

Aurora

Bagrationi

11 Konstantina Fedina St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Artist Gallery

19, Prechistenka Street M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Artplay

3, bld.4 Uspensky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Fusion, Georgian, Russian, Seafood, $$$

At Pirosmani’s

4, Novodevichiy proezd M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Atlantic

2/1 Kutuzovskii Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Atlantis

12 Startovaya St. M. Medvedkovo Cuisine: European, mixed, $$$

8/1 Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, Seafood, $$$ 11, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$ 8 Gogolevskiy bulvar M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Bulgarian, $$ 1/7 Spartakovskaya pl. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, $$$

Bakinskiy Dvorik

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT

6 Stomynka St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Caucasian, Seafood, $$$$

Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276

Baku

“The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

Baku Patio

Aruba

4 Narodnaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Cuban, Spanish, $$$

Asakhi

118 Prospekt Mira M. Alexeyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Asia

Krasnogorsk district, 65/66-y km Ring Road, TVK M. Strogino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Assambleya (President-hotel)

24 Bolshaya Yakimanka St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Oriental, Italian, French, $$$$

AST-Mayak

25/1 Bolshaya Filevskaya Street M. Bagrationovskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Russian, $

Asteroid

10 Krylatskaya St. M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, $$

Aurora - Restaurant Cruiser 1st Rank

10 Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, European, Russian, $$$

Aurora Yacht Club

Moskovksaya oblast, 6th KM from MKAD on Dmitrovskii Shosse M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$

Avocado

12/2 Chistoprudny boulevard M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian,European, Indian, Mexican, Japanese, $$

Azon

Korpus 1, 28 Narodnogo Opolcheniya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, $

B-52

12/14 Usievicha M. Aeroport Cuisine: Azeri, European, French, Russian, $$ 6 Strominka M. Sokolniki Cuisine: American, Azeri, Georgian, $$

Barbontempi

8a str.1 Nikitskiy bul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Barista Bar

47 bld.2, Leningradskiy Prospect M. Aeroport Cuisine: Italian, $$

Baron Munchausen 11 Mikluho-Maklay M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Barracuda Tavern

Beefbar

13 bld.1, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, French, Asian, $$$$

Beeftro

26, Tsvetnoi Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, $

Beer & Loga

23 Autumn Avenue (Osenniy bulvar) Bisness Center M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, German, Japaneese, $$

Beer House

2/12 Kozitsky Maly pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Austrian, German, $$

10 a, Akademika Sakharova M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, European, $$

Barry White

Bellagio

Balcon

Bavarius

Belochka Bar

Baku Patio 2

8 Novinskiy bulvar Lotte plaza M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japaneese, $$$$

Balikoti

1/2 Glubokiy per. M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, $$ 21/10, Komsomolskiy Prospekt M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$$

13/9 B. Ordynka M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

Bavarius

Baltschug

BBcafe

1 Balchug, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Bamboo Bar

B-69

Bank

57, Trifonovskaya street M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, $

5, Bolshoy Putinkovsky pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, Spanish, Thai, $

20, Malaya Dmitrovka M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Steakhouse, $$$

Belaya Rus

7 Litovskii Bulvar M. Yasenevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

Astoria

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, $$$

13 Prechistinskaya Naberezhnaya, bld. 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

24/27 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$

Presnenskaya Naberezhnaya 8 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Chineese, $$$$

69 Vavilova St. M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

1/15 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$

Komsomolsky Pr 21/10 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: German, $$ 13 Skatertniy per. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Beavers

Ulitsa Lyublinskaya 171 M. Maryino Cuisine: European, $$

Bed Cafe

6 Presnenskay Val. bldg.2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$

Bedouin

57 Leninsky prospect M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: East, $

14 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ul. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Belarussian, $$ 8 Mosfilmovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$ 1/2, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Europeane, Russian, $$

Beloe solnce pustyni

29, Neglinnaya M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijiani, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Beloye Solntse Pustyni

29 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Arabic, Uzbek, Chineese, $$$

Bericony

11 bld.6, Volxonka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$$

Beverly Hills Diner 1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Beverly Hills Diner 10, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $$

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants BLACK MARKET Usacheva 2, Bldg 1 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: International, $$ “An inventive and ever changing menu offering International specialities and friendly service”

Big Buffalo Bar & Grill Sushchevskaya St., 19/7 M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Blackberry cafe

Booze Pub

Potapovsky Per 5 M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: International, $$

10, Akademika Sakharova Prospect M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

Bora Bora cafe

BloggiBAR

Bora-Bora Grill

12 Preobrajenskaya sq. M. Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Cuisine: European, $

6/1 str.1, Sretenskiy bul. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Corean, Russian, $$

Bobby Dazzler

7/13 Kostiansky pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$

Bobry & Utki

1A, Chistoprudnii Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, Thai, $

Bocconcino

7, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Tuscany, $$$

Bochka

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$$

Bolshoi

3/6 bld.2, Petrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$

14/3 Orehoviy bul. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $ 1 Semyonovskaya square M. Semyonovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

Bosco Bar

19, Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $

Bosco Café

3, Red Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Bosfor

47/23 Stary Arbat St. (Old Arbat St.) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Turkish, $$

Boston Seafood & Bar 7 Lesnaya Ul M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Fish, $$

BottleBar.ru

2 Pyatnitskiy per. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Thai, Asian, $

Brussels

Cafe Swiss

Brussels Catering

Calvados

10/12 Timiryazevskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Belgian, $$$ 17/1 Myasnitskaya St. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, German, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

Bublik

24, Tverskoi Boulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Ñonfectionery, $

Bungalow Bar

6/1 Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Cuisine: African, $$$

Cafe

36/1 Bol. Novodmitrovskaya St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Cafe Gotty

24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Cafe Loft

25 Nikolskaya, shopping center “Nautilus,” 6th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Cafe Manon

37, Leninskyi bulvar M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Bread and wine

Cafe Margarita

28, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

4/4 bld.1, Yakimanskaya Nabereznaya M. Polyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

Brichmula

Cafe Pushkin

Bontempi bar

Briz (ship Alexander Blok)

8A bld.1, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Bontempi Restaurant 12 bld.1, Bersenevskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

3,19 Starovagankovsky Bystreet M. Alexandrovsky Sad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

12a Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$

Bruder

46 bld.1, Butyrskaya M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

26a, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Cappuccino Express 26 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian, $$

Capri

18, Lva Tolstogo M. Park Kultury Cuisine: French, $$$

Caribe cafe club

18/18 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Mexican, Brazilian, European, Italian, Cuban, Latin American, $$

Casa Agave

Bolshoy Cherkasskiy Per.17 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Mexican , $$

Casa Bella

29 Pr. Vernadskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Casa di Famiglia 7/18 Metallurgov St. M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$

Casa Mia

MKAD 65 km ( Crocus City Moll) M. Myakinino Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$$

Casta Diva

26, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

58 Bol.Nikitskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Castle Rose

CDL Club & Restaurant

50, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, Italian, $$$$

Central Park Cafe

14a Prospect Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Chaika

7, Marksistskaya M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: French, Georgian, International, Italian, Mediterranean, $$$$

Chaikhana Kishmish Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, East, $

Chaikhona ¹1

4 Lodochnaya St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Mediterranean, $$

Chalet

7á Elektrolitny proezd M. Nagornaya Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Swiss, $$

Chateau de Fleurs 29 bld.3, Lomonosovsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, $$$$

Che

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Latin American, $$

Chekhonte

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

CAFE FRESCO

Chemodan

8, 1st Frunzenskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$

Cherdak

“Charming, bright terrace restaurant. High quality Italian cuisine, extensive wine-list and professional service”

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

10/1 1905 goda St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

20, Denezhny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, tuscan, $$$$

Carabas

27, Bolshaya Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian, Russian, $$

Bon

Cantinetta Antinori

Cafe Bellissima

Cafe Brocard

4 Komsomolskiy Pr. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Castle Knight

7 Academika Sakharova M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

23 Olhovskaya St. (Hotel Mandarin Moscow) M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Castle Grill Bar

23 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$

22â Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Asian, $$$

Bouillabaisse

25/6 Kosmodamianskaya nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Rusian,Swiss, $

Gogol Boulevard, Bldg 25, M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$ 7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Chesterfield

Courschevel

Chicago Prime: Steakhouse & Bar

Courvoisier

Building 1, 19 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$$

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, French, $$$$

Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$$

Malaya Sukharevskaya Sq. Bldg.8 M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

China Club

Coyote Ugly

21, Krasina M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Author, Pan-Asian, $$$

China Town

25/12 Lubyanka Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Chinese, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

Chito Grito

6/3 bld.3, Kuznetskiy Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Coctails, $$

Crab House

2g Minskaya M. Park Pobedy Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Cipollino

7 Soimonovskiy prospekt, building 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

City Club International

23a Taras Shevchenko Embankment M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: International, $$

Correa’s

32 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Ul., bldg.1 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$

Correa’s

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Correa’s

13/12 Profsoyuznaya M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Dacha na Pokrovke

21/2 Petrovka M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Dolls

23b Krasnaya Presnya, Building 1 M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Darbars

Don Ivan

38 Leninsky Pr. 16 Fl Hotel Sputnik M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Indian, $$$

Darling, I’ll call you back ..

7, Bolshoy Strochenovsky M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Das Kapital

Building 1, 6/9/20 Rozhdestvenka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, German, $$

De Marco

Multiple Cuisine: European, International, Seafood, $$$

Ded Pihto

Corsa

DeFAQto

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Divas

Dom Karlo

37/3 Myasnitskaya ulica M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Cosmos Planet

25 Nikolskaya str, Nautilus Shopping Center, 5th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$

18/4 bld.16, Pokrovsky Bulevard M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

32, Bolshaya Gruzniskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$ 78 Mira Prospect M. Rizhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Dissident

Dodo

Da Cicco

Cicila

2, Merzlyakovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Crazy Hunter

Chito Grito

Multiple locations Cuisine: European, $$

Dioskuria

10 Strastnoy Boulevard, Building 2 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, International, $$

11 Trubnikovsky pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Geogian, $$

Chocolate

3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

6 Tverskaya Ul. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$ 8 Dovatora St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

22 Narodnaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Dim Sum

6 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$ 10 Yaroslavskoe shosse M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

Don Macaron

53, Lusinovskaya M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Don Pedro

9 Spiridonievsky lane M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

Don’t Tell Mama

31 Novinsky boulevard, Trading Center ’Novinsky’ M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

Drevny Kitai

5/6 bld.4, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Druzhba

4, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Due Soldo

33/4 Narodnogo opolcheniya M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Dukhan Alaverdy 23-25/2 Gruzinsky Val. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Duma

11 bld 3b, Mokhovaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Durdin

Multiple Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Russian, $$

Dzhagannat

11, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Indian, $$

Eat & Talk

7 Mohovaya St. M. Borovitskaya Cuisine: European, $

Ecle

5 Oktyabrskaya St. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

El Gauchito

48, Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar, $$$

5, Putnikovskiy bol. per M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Elky-Palki

Donna Klara

Emporio Armani Caffe

21/13, Malaya Bronnaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Donna Margarita 2 bld.1, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Home, Italian, $$$

30/2 str.1, Bol.Lubyanka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: American, European, Indian, $$$

Doolin house

Denis Simachev

Dorian Gray

12 Stoleshnikov Per. Bldg.2 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Doucet X.O.

20 Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $ 6/1 Kadashevskaya nab. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Multiple Cuisine: Russian, $

3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Esperanto Lounge Bar

41a Vyatskaya ul. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Etaj

bld. 1, 14 Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

9/28 Pyatnitskaya M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Etaj

89 Dmitrovskoye shosse, Trading Center ’XL’ M. Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

2aya - Brestskaya 52/1 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Eva

31 Marshala Rokossovskogo bulvar M. Ulitsa Podbelskogo Cuisine: European, Russian, Medeterian, Italian, French, Japanese, $

Evoo

15, Kosygina (Korston hotel) M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Ex Libris

6 str.1 Bobrov per. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Extra Lounge

15, Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$

Farsi

2/1 Kutuzovskiy prospect M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Iranian, $$$

Favorite Pub

24, Spiridonovka M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$$

Filini Bar & Restaurant

26, 3 ulica Yamskogo polya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Five Spices

3/18, Sivtsev Vrazhek Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, Thai, $$

Flat Iron Roadhouse 7 Voznesensky Per. Hotel Courtyard M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Flei

8 bld.2, Lyalin Pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Farm products, Home, $$

Focaccia

3 Kozitsky per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, $$

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Fonda

2 str.90 Ugreshskaya St. M. Dubrovka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Free Bar

21-23 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$$

Free Bar People 26/1 Trubnaya St. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: European, $

French Cafe

3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

French cheese hole

15-17 Bolshoi Cherkasskii Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: French, $$$

Frendys

Genatsvale

12/1, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Giardino di pino

30/1 str.1 Obrucheva St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Gin-no Taki

6 Tverskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Ginkgo by Seiji

3 Tverskaya, The Ritz-Carlton M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

Gino Taki

6 Tverskaya Ul. Bldg.1 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Gino Taki

Greenwich Pub

Hugo

Insolito

Hunter

Iskra Cafe-bar

Hachapuri

Huntsman’s House and Safari Lodge

Isola

Hachapuri

Hyppocratus

52/5, Kosmodamianskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$

Gusyatnikoff

2a Aleksandra Soljenicina St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$ 2/1 Shluzovaya Nab., bld. 7 M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$ 10 Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy Per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Hachapuri

7 Ukrainskiy Bul. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

28/6 bld.3, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: American, $

58 Bol. Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Hamon and Wine

Friends Forever

Giovedi Cafe

Happiness

Fusion Plaza

Godunov

18, Kozijinsky per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian,Indian , $$$

G Graf

8, 4th Dobryninsky Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$$$

Galereya

27 Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$

Gallery

27, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Asian, European, Italian, Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Gandhara

26, Ozerkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 5/1, Teatralnaya Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Gogol-Mogol

6 Gagarinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Golicin

bld. 4, 15 Staraya Basmannaya M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, $$

Good Beef

3, Kamergersky pereulok M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Confectionery, $$

Harbin

5 bld.1, Prospekt Mira M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Harbin

66, Niznyaia Pervomaiskaya M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Goodman Steak House

Help Bar

Gayane’s

GQ Bar

11 bld.2, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Happiness

Hard Rock Cafe

Multiple locations M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Steakhouse, $$$

Genatsvale

5, Bolshoi Putinkovsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Ñonfectionery, $$

15-17 bld1, Bolshoi Cherkassky Pereulok M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Steaks, $$

15 bldg.7, Rochdelskaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pakistani, $$$ 1/4 bld.2, Smolensky Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Armenian, $$

4, Sytinsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Spanish, $$

5, Balchug M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Asian, european, russian trend, $$$

Grand Cru

8 bld.1, Presnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

44, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: American, $$ 27 bld1, Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$

Hiro

bld. 32, 31 Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Thai, $$

Hudson bar

10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

39, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, $$$ Golovinskoe shosse 1a M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: European, $$

32 Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: German, $$$

7/5, Pushechnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$ 36 Bol.Novodmitrievskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$ 23 A Tarasa Shevhenko Emb., Bashnya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

2-3 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Russian, $

John Bull Pub

I Like Bar

Jourbon

Ichiban Boshi

Ju-Ju

21, Shukhova St. M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Multiple locations Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

IL Camino

4B bld.4, Kozlovskiy Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Italian, French, $$$

Il Capriccio

Building 4, 92 Lobachevskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$

IL Forno

3/14 Ostojenka ul. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

IL Forno

8/10 Neglinnaya ul. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$

IL Kamino

4 Bld.4, Bolshoi Kozlovsky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Swiss, $$$

Il Patio

Multiple Cuisine: Italian, $$

Illarion

20/2 Pyatnickaya ul. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Illarion

119 Mira prospect,pav.67 VVC M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, $

Indabar

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, $

2/9 Smolenskaya Ploshchad M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: International, $$ 81, Vavilova Street M. Universitet Cuisine: International, $$$ 15, Smolenskiy Boulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Home, draw-heavy oven, $$$

Jukovka

41/1 Marshala Jukova pr. M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, European, $$$

Kabanchik

27 Krasina St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $

Kabinet

Building 4, 15 Malaya Kaluzskaya M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Kalina Cafe

17 Prechistenskaya Nab. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, Russian, $$

Kalinka

“Cosmos” Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Kamchatka

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Kapri

7 Saharova Pr. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Karaoke Boom

46 Novoslobodskaya M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Kare

42 str.1 Dmitriya Ulyanova St. M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Karetny Dvor

52/1, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Azeri, Caucasian, Georgian, $

Karma Bar

3 Pushechnaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Kasbar

Building 5, 3 Turchaninov Per. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Arabic, European, French, International, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Katie O Shea’s

Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$

Kavkazskaya Plennitsa

Khram Drakona

Koonjoot

La Maree

Liga Pap

55 bld 1, Mitinskaya M. Mitino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

Krambambula

La Maree

Light House

Kish-Mish

Kruazh

37 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Kioto

28, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

Kitaisky Kvartal

12 bldg.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Kitaisky Letchik Jao Da

25, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Asian, Russian, $$$

Kitchenette

36, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Presnenskaya Nab., 2, Afimall City , 5th floor Metro Vystavochnaya, M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Brasserie, $$

Kebab City

Kitchenette

5 Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$

Ketama Bar

5/6 str.5 Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Moroccan, $$

Khajuraho

14, Shmitovsky Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Indian, $

Khinkalnaya

15, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Khinkalnaya

Kamergersky Per.6 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Brasserie, $$

Kitezh

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Kleopatra

2a 1905 Goda Ul., Bldg. 2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: International, $$$

Knyaz Bagration

58 Pluscgikha M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Kogo Fragola

71, Bolshaya Ordinka M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

12a Suzdalskaya St. M. Novogireyevo Cuisine: European, Japanese, $

Khinkalnaya

Kolbassoff

11, Trubnikovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$

Khlestakov-Traktir Build.1, 9 3rd Frunzenskaya St. M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Russian, $$

Khorosho Sidim 17 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Multiple M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: Russian, $$

Kolkhi

1/1 Leningradsky Pr. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Komi

62 Volokolamskoe shosse M. Sokol Cuisine: Russian, $$

Konigs Platz

1a str.2 Kozitskiy per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $$

36a Berejkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Eastern, $$ 352 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: Belarussian, $$ 4, Prechistenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Kruzhka

15 Nikolskaya ulitsa M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: Beer Bar, $$

Kuhmeister

Build.1, 47 Piatnitskaia M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, $$

Kult

201 Zhukovka, Odintsovsky District M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$ Malaya Gruzinskaya ul., 23 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

La Stazione

Latuk

LiLu

1/15, Yauzskaya M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: vegetarian, $$$

Lavash

7 Tsvetnoi Bul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Armenian, $$$

Kuznetsky Most 20

Lazzetti

20 SadovayaChernogryazskaya St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

La Bottega

14/6, Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$ 4 Nogorniy bul. M. Nagornaya Cuisine: Italian, editerranean, $

Le Gateau

23, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

Le Gateau

5B, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

2 bld.1, Paveletskaya Square M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $

La Bottega Siciliana

Lemonade

La Cantina

Leningrad

2, Okhotny Ryad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$ 5/6, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

La Delizia

56a Sevastopolskiy prospect M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Caucasian, $$$

La Gourmet

1/3 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, $$$

La Luna

69 Sadovnichevskaya nab. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, International, Japanese, $$

La Mancha

12a Kravchenko ul. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$

Lilit

2 Ohotniy Ryad St. (Moscow Hotel) M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $

Lawson’s Bar

Kvas

7 kor.1 Michurinskiy pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: Italian, $$$

18/1 Olympiysky Prospekt M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, $$

5 Yauzskaya emb. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$$$ 20, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $

24, Bolshaya Lubyanskaya M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Italian, Spanish, $$

7 Kievskaya St. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$ 21/40 Kalanchevskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Les Menus Par Pierre Gagnaire 8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: French, $$$$

Letto Club

33 str.1 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $

LexÑlubCafe

2 kor.2 Balaklavskiy Pr. (Aridan) M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: American, European, Caucasian, $

Life Pub

20 Fr. Engelsa M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Sireneviy bulvar 25a M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Russian , $$

Limonchello

4 Komsomolskii Prospekt M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Linderhof

Korpus 1, 7 Lomonosovskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, German, Vegetarian, $$

Lisya Nora

2 Dayev Per. M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Little Japan

12a, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Lobby Bar

28 Tverskaya St. (Mariott Grand Hotel) M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $

Look In!

9 Bolshaya Dmitrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Los Bandidos

7 Bolshaya Ordynka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$$

Louisiana Steak House

30 Pyatnitskaya, bldg.4 M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Luce

21, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

Luch

27 bld.1, Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Coctails, $$

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Luciano

3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Author’s, $$

Ludi kak ludi

1/4, Solyansky Tupic M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Confectionary, $

Ludvig

3/1 Marshala Vasilevskogo St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Czech, European, German, Russian, $$

L’Albero

Delegatskaya Str., 7 M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

L’Altro Bosco Café 10 Petrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Macaroni

62 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Madam Galife

26/1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$

Maestro de Oliva Mega moll-2 M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Maharaja

2/1 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Indian, $$

Maison Elitaire 1 A, 37/43 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: French, Mediterranean, $$$

Mandarin

2 Mal. Cherkasskiy Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Pan Asian, $

Mario

17 Klimashkina Ul. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Market

18 bld.1, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Seafood, Asian, Chineese, $$$

Marocana

1/15, Kotelnicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, $

Martinez bar

1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Maxim bar

Muchachos

Maxima Pizza

Myasnoi club

15, Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$ 78, Leningradsky Pr. M. Sokol Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $

Mayak

19/3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

McDonald’s

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

Megu

8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

Merkato

9, Krymskii Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Komsomolsky Pr 28 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $ 19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Creative, Meat, $$$

Myasnoy Club

19 str.1 Kuznetskiy Most St. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$$

N Cafe

87/89 Leninskiy Pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $$

Na Melnitse

24, Sadovaya-Spasskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Nabi

Mestiere

38, Leninsky Prospect M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $$$

13, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$$

Milk and Honey

Navarro’s Bar & Grill

38, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$$

MinSelHoz

5, Petrovka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Home, $

Mio DJ Cafe

1, Kaluzskaya Square M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, Italian, $$

23, Shmitovskiy Proezd M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, Latin American, $$

News&More

11 Novinskiy bul. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, American, $$

More vnutri

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, Author’s, $$$

12A, Chistoprudny Boulevard M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

Novoi

25 Universitetskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

NYM yoga

4/5, Plotnikov Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $

O2 Lounge

3, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: International, $$$

Oblaka

48 Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$$

Oblomov

5, Monetchikovskyi 1-iy Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$$$

Nobu

B.Dmitrovskaya 20/1 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Japaneese, $$$$

MUZEY Restaurant Muzey, Kosmodimianskaya nab. 52/7 (next to Swisshotel) M. Paveletskaya Cuisine Italian $$$$ Extremely comfortable Italian restaurant serving high quality creative & traditional Italian cuisine, personally cooked by Chef Marco Lachetta

Old Berlin

25 Arbat St. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: German, $$

Old Havana

Talalihina St. 28/1 M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Cuban, $$

Old Man Muller Multiple Cuisine: German, $$$

Old School Pub 15, Bol. Cherkasskiy M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Olimp

24 Luznetskaya Embankment M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Russian, $$

Oliva

3/5, Smolensky Boulevard M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Middle Eastern, $$

Olivetta

20 Malaya Dmitrovka Ul M. Pushkinskaya, $$$

Olympos

13 Akademika Korolyova St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Om Cafe

15/1 Novy Arbat Ul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$

Onegin

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Nostalgie

17 Tverskaya St M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Scandinavian, European, $$$ +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

Multiple locations M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $

Mr. Lee

9 Maly Ivanovsky pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

NIGHT FLIGHT

Moo-Moo

7, Pesochnaya alleya, Park Sokolniki M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $$

Noev Kovcheg

Octyabr

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, European, $

Ogonek

5/2, Potapovsky Pereulok M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

Ogorod

30/2 Prospekt Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$

Old Batum

7, Academika Bochvara St., bld.1 M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

12/2 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Orange Cow’s House 18 Pavlovskaya St. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Oriental Tale

22 D Frunzenskaya Embankment M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, $

Osteria Da Cicco 3, Banniy Pereulok M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $$

Osteria Montiroli Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Osteria Montiroli Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants OSTERIA DELLA PIAZZA BIANCA Lesnaya street 5a M. Belarusskaya Cuisine: Italian $$$$ Typical Italian traditions for food and hospitality. Food care is the most important aspect, with freshness and simplicity as the main characteristics. Feel and breath Italian culture and true Italian cuisine.

Osteria nel Parco

Pane & Olio Trattoria

9, Krymskiy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

22, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Osteria Numero Uno

Panorama

2, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ostozhye

40/1 Ostojenka ul. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Otkrity Mir

18, Pavlovskaya M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, $

Oñakbasi

10 str.2 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Turkish, East, $$

Pacha

4 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: East, European, Caucasus, $$$

Pachito Bar

10, Nikolskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, $$

Palati Nu Cafe

11/13 str. 1 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Palazzo Ducale

3 Tverskoy Boulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Paluba

8 Berezhkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, Turkish, $$$

Pancho Villa

52, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $$

Pane & Olio Pizzeria 38 Bldg 1. Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, $$$

5 Smolenskaya St. (Hotel Golden Ring,2st floor) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Pattaiya

14, Bol. Sukharevskaya Square M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Thai, Chinese , $$

Pavilion

7 bld.1, Bolshoy Patriarshiy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Pechki-Lavochki

10 Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya Street M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Peking Duck 24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Vegetarian, $$$

Peperoni

Pizza Express

Porto Maltese

17 Tverskaya St. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

21 Pravda St. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Porto Maltese

Pizza Hut

17 Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, Italian, $$$

Pizzeria il Pomodoro

31 A Leningradsky Prospect St. M. Dinamo Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Planet Sushi

Porutshik Rzhevsky

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Plotnikov Pub

Plotinikov pereulok 22/16 M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Pochtmeyster

47/23, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $

Building 26, 1A Nikoloyamskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: American, Latin American, Mexican, $$

Pepper

Pokrovskie vorota

Papa John’s

10 Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

9 1st Proezd Perovo Pole M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Petrovich

Papa’s place

11 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

22, Myasnitskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, Italian, $$

Paparazzi

3 Pyatnitskaya St. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, American, $$

Paper Moon

Build. 1, 17 Petrovka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, Vegetarian, $$$

Paradise

2a Nagornoe Shosse M. Planernaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Parisienne

31/9, Leningradsky Pr. M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, European, $$$$

Pasta Mama

12/9, Spiridonevsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

19 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Tibetan, $$$

Peshi

Papa’s Place ul. Nikol’skaya 10 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, International, $$

Porto Maltese

54 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

17, Petrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Papa Joe’s

11 Leninsky Prospect St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Build. 4, 4 Bolshoy Tolmachevsky Pereulok M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Fusion, Russian, Vegetarian, $$

Poslednyaya Kaplya 4 Strastnoi Bul., Bldg. 3 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$

Post Scriptum

42b Miklukho-Maklaya St. M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, I talian, $$$

POLO CLUB 11/12, Petrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

24/3, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$

“Polo Club, one of the best hotel restaurants in town serving quality steaks and seafood”

Piccolino

Pink Cadillac

4-6, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$

Polyana

75 A Udalcova St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Europe, East, $$

Pomest’e

Pino-Pizza

73 Volgogradsky Prospect M. Tekstilshchiki Cuisine: Italian, $$

Tamanskaya 46 M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: American, Caucasian, European, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$

Pino-Pizza

Ponton

Pino-Pizza

Porter House

32 Perovsky St., bld. 1 M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$ 23 Bolshaya Bronnaya St., bld. 1 M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Pinocchio

23 A Naberejnaya Trasa Shevhenko M. Mezhdunarodnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Pizza Amore

43 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $

Berezhkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Praga

2/1, Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, International, Japanese, Russian, $$$$

Pravda 21

21/1 Pravdy St. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

Prego Pizza & Pasta 6, Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Presnya Cafe

20 Arkhitektora Vlasova St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $$$

7, Stolyarniy Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Porto Chervo

Prichal

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Porto Maltese

3 Varvarka Ul. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

Ilyinskoe Shosse, 2km M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Uzbek, Italian, $$$

Prime Star

77 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya naberezhnaya (Aurora) M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Russian,Mixed, $$

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Prince

16 Kashirskoe Shosse M. Kashirskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Russian, $$$

Prospektbar

42 str.2a, Shepkina ul. M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$

Radio City Bar & Grill 5, Boshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: International, $$

Ragout

16, bld.5, Olimpiisky Prospect M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$$

Rakhat Lukum 9 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

Razguliay

11 Spartakovskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

Real Food Restaurant

12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. (Crowne Plaza Moscow World Trade Centre) M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Red & White

15 Lesnaya St. (Hotel Holiday Inn) M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Red Lion

12 Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: British, $$

Red Point

7 Autumn Avenue (Osenny bulvar) M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Red Sails

66 Aviationnaya Street M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Red Square

1 Krasnaya ploschad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $

Reka

6 bld.2, Bersenenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Restaurant Moschoice

15 Kosygina St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $

Revolutsiya

40, Novokuznetskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Home, $$$

Rialto

9/11 Bolshoy Fakelny Lane M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ribny Bazaar

10/2, Tryokhprudny Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, European, $$$

Richard Lion Heart 29 Michurinsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, $$$

Rio-Grande

No.19 Zeleny Prospekt M. Perovo Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Mexican, $

Rio-Rio

16 Krasnopresnenskaya Emb. M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, $$$$

River Side

10 Mantulinskaya St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Chineese, Japaneese, International, $$$

Riverside cafe

29, Serebryanicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Kurskaya Cuisine: european, $$

Riviere

4, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Roberto

20 Rozhdestvenskii Bulvar M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Roll Hole

SCANDINAVIA

Romanov

7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$

3 Holodilnyy Per. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Vegetarian, $

Roni

Saperavi

Rosemary

Sayani

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Asian grill, $$$ 26 Nikoloyamskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: French, International, Italian, $

27, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$$ Ural’skaya 5 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Shore House

Crocus City (66 km MKAD) M. Myakinino Cuisine: European, Japanese, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, $$$

Shvarcvald

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$$

Royal Family

Scandinavia Restaurant

Royale

Scotland Yard

Sirena

Seiji

Sisters Grimm

Seven Fridays

Sixties diners

15 Ul. Kosygina (Hotel Orlyonok) M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Korean, $ 21/1 Begovaya St. (in the Hippodrome building) M. Begovaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $

Ryba

4 Nashekinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, $

Rybatskaya Derevnya All-Russia Exhibition Center, Selskohozyaistvennaya St. M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, Russian, $$$

Rytsarsky Club 28 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$$

Sahara

1 Shcholkovskoe shosse M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Saigon

7, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Swedish, $$$ 34 bld.1, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$$ 5/2, Komsomolsky Prospect M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$ 6, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, $$$

Shamrock bar

Sanduny

14 str.4, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Chinese, Russian, Uzbek, $$

11, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author, European, $$ 16/2 str.2 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, American, $

Sky Lounge

Shantil

57, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Sharabara

Shashlichnaya #1

Shyolkovskoe shosse 68 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Uzbek, $$

15, Bolshaya Spasskaya M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

2/1 Myasnitsky Proyesd M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Vietnamese, $$$

Shanti

Sakhili

Sandik

14, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Lebanese, Middle Eastern, $$

Skazka

29/3 Lomonosovskiy pr. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Eastern, European, $$

6 Bolshoi Karetny Per Bldg 1 M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Sindbad

11 str.1 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Irland, $$

39 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Vietnamese, $

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

17/1 Neglinnaya ulitsa M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Russian, European, $$

2, Ryazansky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, $

Shatush

17, Gogolevsky Boulevard M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, European, Japanese, Tai,, $$$$

Shinok

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$$

56 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $ 32à Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

Sky Lounge

32a Leninskiy Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Smotra Bar & Restaurant

66 Leningradskiy pr. M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, Japanese, $

SOHO Rooms

12/8 Bolshoi Savvinsky Nab. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: International, $$$$

Soup Cafe

62/25 1st Brestskaya, bldg.3 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants SILVERS IRISH PUB 5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Pub food, $$ “Traditional Irish hospitality with great pub food and excellent beers”

Super Mario

SQUARE

60 str.1 Brestkaya 1st St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, English, $

41 Gastello St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, $$

Stakan

Sushi-Bar Kiot

3/3, Teatralniy pr. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

Krymsky val, 10 M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

Staraya Usadba

Sweet Home Cafe

29a, Metallurgov ul. M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

14/2 str.1, Myasnitskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

Stariki

Pyatnitskaya Ul. 52, bldg. 2 M. Polyanka Cuisine: Steaks, $$

13 str.2, Bol.Lubyanka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Starlite Diner

6, Vernadskogo Pr M. Universitet Cuisine: American, $$

T-Bone

T.G.I. Friday’s

Multiple location Cuisine: American, $$

STARLITE DINER 8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$ Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Starlite Diner

9a, Korovy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

16/5, Bolotnaya Square M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

16 Bolshaya Sadova M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Steyks

21 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Strelka

14/5 Bersenevskaya naberejnaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Suliko

42/2 Bol. Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Taisky Slon

25 Khoroshevskoye Shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$$

Takasa

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Take

No.20, 60-Letia Octyabrya Prospekt M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Talavera

2 Europe squar (RadIsson Slavyanskaya Hotel) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Taliesin

26 Valovaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Tancy

11, Nicolskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Tanuki

Tiflis

32 bld.2, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Time Out Bar

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$

5, Sadovaya ulitsa Hotel pekin M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Tapa De Comida

Timeterria LiPeople

Tapa’rillas Tapas Bar

Tinkoff

20/2 Trubnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Spanish, $$$$

4/3 bld.3, Strasnoy Boulevard M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Spanish , $$

Taras Bulba

Multiple Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$

Tatler club

2/1, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Tavern Admiral Benbau Building A, 52 Sudostroitelnaya St. M. Kolomenskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

4, 2nd Shemilovsky pereulok M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Pizzeria, $ 11, Protochny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$

Tommy D Gastro Bar 1, Tretyakovsky Proyezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

Tonino Lamborghini Boutique Caffe 19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Author’s, Home, European, Italian, $$$

Tequila Bar & Boom 4, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Mexican, $

Terrace

13 Uglichskaja St. M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Terrace

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Thai Elephant

25 bld,1, Horoshevskoe shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Eastern, European. Thai, $$$

The Standard

Bolshoi Zlatoustinsky Per.9 M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: American, International, $$

186a Zhukovka, RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse, 9 kilometers from MKAD M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Tsifry

40 bld.2, Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Tsimmis

3, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$$

Tunnel

7 Lubyansky Proezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, International, Japanese, $

Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Tel Aviv

Multiple M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Tsar’s Hunt

Multiple M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

31/4, Triumfalnaya Squqre M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$

Temple Bar

186a, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, Hunting, $$$

TORRO GRILL

Tchaikovsky

30/1, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Israeli, $$$

Tsarskaya Okhota

Traktir Chyornaya Koshka 6 Vorontsovskaya Ul. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

Trattoria Venezia

Tutto Bene

8, Presnenskaya nab., bld.1 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Tverbul

9 bld.3, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

24 Tverskoy bul. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Trattoria Venezia

Twin Pigs

4/3 bld.3, Strastnoi Bulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Trattoria Venezia 17, Shabolovka M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Tri kabana

34 kor.2 Ryazanskiy pr. M. Ryazansky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Trubadur

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Truffaldino

20 Marksistskaya Ul., bldg 1 M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$

19a Akademika Koroleva St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: Russian, Japanese, Philipino, $$$

Tyrandot

26/5, Tverskoy bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

U Shveika

2, Barrikadnaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Czech, European, $$

Ugra

5/14 Porechnaya St. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@ moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Uilliam’s

Vinyl

Yapona Mama

Un Sun

Vision Cocktail Hall

Yar

Unicum

Viskonti

Yasniy Perec

20 Mal. Bronnaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 9, Achsheulov Pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Korean, $ 10 2nd TverskayaYamskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Usadba in Archangelskoe

Arñhangelskoe Settlement M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Uzbehka

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$

Uzbekistan

29/14 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Arabic, Azeri, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Vanil

1, Ostozhenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Vanilla Sky

Build.3, 11-13 Nikolskaya St. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Vapiano

26/1 Prospekt mira M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Venice

16 Spartakovskaja Square M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Mixed, $$$

Veranda u Dachi

70, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Vesna

19, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Italian, Mediterranean, Japanese, $$$

Veterok

24, Gorki-2 village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Home cooking from Arkady Novikov, $$$

Vinil

13 str.2 SadovayaSpasskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Vinosyr

6, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

4 Pevcheskiy Per. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$ 11 Noviy Arbat St., bld. 1 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$ 28a Shipilovskaya St. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vivace

7 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Vizavi

6 Serpukhovskoy Val M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vodny

39 bld.6, Leningradskoye Shosse M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Vogue Cafe

7/9, Kuznetsky Most M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

White Cafe

36/9, Novy Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

White clouds

4, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, Mexican, $

White Rabbit

4 Smolensky Bulvar. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$ 32/2, Leningradsky Prospect M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$ 51/23 Pervomaysky St. M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Russian, International, $$

Yasumi

61a Profsoyaznaya ul. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Yoko

5, Soimonovskiy prospekt M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, author’s, $$$$

Yolki Palki

Multiple M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Yujung

12, Krasnopresnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Korean, $$

Z-Lounge

3 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Zafferano

8/10, Novinsky Bulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$$

3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

Zafferano

Who is Who (Karaoke)

Zolotaya Vobla

William Bass

Zolotoi Drakon

Wok Express

Zolotoi Kupol

15a Oruzjeyniy per. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

9 Malaya Yakimanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ 26 Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

X.O.

25 str.1 Rusanova pr. M. Sviblovo Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $

Yan Pen

3/7, Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Korean, $$$

Vegas Mall, 25th km MKAD Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$ 9 Sushchevsky Val Ul. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$ 15a Kalanchevskaya M. Komsomolskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$

10/2, 10-Gorky township, Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Caucasian, $$$

Zolotoy Dar

154 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Zucker

12/2, Bolshoy Kozikhinsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, Lebanese, Syrian, Persian, Bukharan, $$$

Community Services

British Business Club President: Don Scott Web site: www.britishclub.ru

Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

The Association of European Business (AEB) CEO: Dr. Frank Schauff

Today, the British Business Club supports more than 600 British or affiliated people and companies with regular meetings and charitable events. We have strong local contacts and help where we can, if not directly, then at least with a guiding hand to a person, organisation or ministry. Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times. We organise social and professional events for the Italian community. We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities. Ultimately, we make Italy a little closer to Russia. Any organisations and individual in Moscow that are either Italian or focus their business on Italy can join the club. AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its members’ opinions, generated in 40 industrial and crosssectorial committees, sub- committees and working groups. We develop cooperation between Moscow and European business circles through high profile conferences, briefings, round tables and other business events.

Australian Business in Europe, Russia (ABIE) Managing Director and Founder: Slava Konovalov Web site: www. australianbusiness.ru

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway Web site: www.moscowirishclub.ru

The Danish Business Club in Moscow Chairman: Kasper Ditlevsen Daytime job: Commercial Director – Uhrenholt Russia & CIS http://www.dbcmoscow.camp9.org

The ABIE has an international membership of about 1,000 drawn mostly from Australian companies with business interests in Europe and from a wide range of European companies with reciprocal interest in Australia. ABIE hosts a range of events designed to keep members up-to-date with business, political, sports and cultural developments occurring in Australia. It also runs a social programme to facilitate networking. The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. Russian people are very well educated and I truly believe our role is to transfer knowledge and understanding. This is sometimes a challenge for people. We try and help in these respects as much as we can.

The Danish Business Club has both corporate and private members, almost all of whom are based in or doing business in Moscow. About 80% of our subscribing members are Danish, but that doesn’t mean that 80% of all participants at all events are Danish. The club holds business events and also social events, such as the Stambord at the Restaurant Skandinavia once a month.

Community Services Women’s Clubs/Associations The Swedish Women’s Educational Association (SWEA) Contacts: Cecilia Wettstam, President SWEA Moscow Tel: +7 985 233 9687 Email: ordfsweamoskva@gmail.com Website: www.swea.org/moskva www.sweamoskva.blogspot.com

SWEA is an international organisation, with 7,500 members in 34 countries all over the world. The fact that the 90-member strong Moscow chapter fits into a large international organisation, has many advantages. The main purpose of the SWEA in Moscow is to act as a network for members, to support Swedish culture and Swedish language; this is very important for us.

The majority of SWEA’s 90 members in Russia are accompanying spouses, even though the trend is that more and more women come here by themselves for career reasons working for Swedish companies. We also have a surprisingly large number of Russians ladies as members who have maybe lived in Sweden, or have studied Swedish here, and they are of course also welcome as members. Our doors are also open to other Scandinavians.

De Tulpen The Main goal of the Tulips is to provide a social platform for the Dutch speaking ladies in Moscow, do things of interest together and have fun! When you are abroad, one’s own culture becomes so much more important. If anybody wants to connect with us, please find us on the Dutch Cub web site. If people want to go and visit museums, they can do that one their own. But if they want to speak their mother tongue with other people here in Moscow, then here we are. http://www.nlclubmoskou.nl/

The British Women’s Club (BWC)

BWC was set up in 2000. When British women arrive here they may need help and support from each other to understand basic things like where to shop for food, information about schools and to get to know other Brits. Mainly it is a help group, because it can be quite a shock settling here if you don’t speak Russian. Women generally introduce themselves before they move to Moscow. And we let the ladies know on what is going on in the city. As long as you have a British passport yourself or you married to somebody who holds a British passport you can become the member of BWC. We have quite a few Russian wives who are members. Once a month we hold our monthly meeting at the British embassy. We have a committee with ten members. We meet once a month and make decisions about what we are going to do during the months ahead. Our major activities are planned almost six months ahead. The ladies themselves decided what they want to do. Website: http://bwcmoscow.org.uk/

Community Services Gyms and Fitness Clubs Private membership Do you have a favourite gym or fitness club that we have not mentioned? Please send in your recommendations for inclusion in future editions to editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Marina Club

Hard Candy

50-meter indoor pool with 10 tracks and 12-meter aquaslop. Open daily: 07:00-24:00. Address: Leningradskoye sh., 25a Metro: Voikovskaya Tel: 363-6061 Web: www.marina-club.ru

Address: B.Kislovskiy per 9 Moscow Russia 125009 Front Desk: +7 495 933 7100 Mon - Fri: 7:00-24:00 Weekends and Holidays: 09:00-10:00

Beach Club A surprisingly beautiful white-sand beach flanks the Moscow River, furnished with lounge chairs, beach umbrellas and a well-stocked bar. Active types can rent jet skis, play volleyball and even swim. Of course there is a place to dock your yacht. Address: Leningradskoe Shosse 39 Metro: Vodny Stadion Website: http://beach-club.ru Phone: 495 979 9090

Locstream rollerdrome

Trud

Rollerdrome (Kant) Sports Club

Part of Planeta Fitness club. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open: Mon-Fri 08:3022:15, Sat 08:30-21:00, Sun 09:00-21:00. Address: Varshavskoye sh., 14 Metro: Tulskaya Tel: +7 495 958-1501 Web: www.fitness.ru

Fit & Fun Address: Chistoprudny Bul 12 Str 1 Mon-Fri: 07:00-23:00 Sat-Sun: 09:00-20:00 Gym, pool, saunas, Jacuzzis, aerobics, aqua-aerobics

Marriott Hotels Group Some hotels offer discounts to expat club members, e.g. BWC

Marco Polo Hotel Health Club Address: Spiridonovsky Per 9 Daily: 12:00-24:00 Tel: +7 495 202 0381

Atlantis fitness club Mezhdunarodnaya 1, Krasnopresnenskaya Nab 12 Tel: +7 495 937 0373

Address: 125a Bol. Cherkizovskaya Str. +7 495 161 8630

RollHoll Rollerdrome Address: 3 Kholodilny Ave. +7 495 954 0158

Address: 7 Electrolitny Proezd, building 2 +7 495 317 6101

Fantasy Park Address: 100 Lyublinskaya Str. +7 495 641 3451

Adrenalin Sports and Entertainment Center Address: 1 Chermyansky Proezd +7 495 221 0105

Dr.Loder — Fitness club in Moscow Address: 103031 Moscow, Strastnoy bulvar, 10/1 Metro: Strastnoy Bulvar E-mail: strastnoy@doctor-loder.ru Tel.: +7 495 775 7474, +7 495 775 7400

Municipal Chaika Sports Complex

Olympic Village - 80

25-meter and 50-meter open-air pools. Two paddling pools. Tennis courts Open Mon-Sat 07:00-22:30, Sun 08:30-19:30. Address: Turchaninov per., 1/3 Metro: Park Kultury Tel: +7 499 246 1344 Web: www.chayka-sport.ru

25-meter indoor pool and a paddling pool. Open daily 07:30-22:00. Address: Olimpiyskaya Derevnya, 2 Metro: Yugo-Zapadnaya Tel: +7 495 437 1698 Web: www.ckod80.ru

CSKA Sport Complex Well-established sport complex. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open daily: 07:00-23:00. Address: Leningradsky prosp., 39, str. 9 Metro: Aeroport Tel: +7 495 613 6907 Web: www.cska.ru

Fili 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks and two paddling pools. Open daily: 07:15-22:00. Address: Bolshaya Filyovskaya ul., 18a Metro: Bagrationovskaya Tel: +7 499 148 3046

Izmailovo 50-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool and a jumping pool. Open daily: 07:00-19:45. Address: Sirenevy bulv., 2 Metro: Cherkizovskaya Tel: +7 499 166 8945

Luzhniki Outdoor 50-meter and 25-meter pools, two 25-meter indoor pools and one 25-meter indoor children’s pool. Open Mon-Fri 07:00-22:00, Sat 07:00-18:00, Sun 07:00-15:00. Address: Luzhnetskaya nab., 24 Metro: Sportivnaya Tel: +7 495 785 9717 Web: www.luzhniki.ru

Medvedkovo 25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks and 16-meter indoor pool. Open daily: 07:00-22:00. Address: Zapovednaya ul., 1 Metro: Sviblovo Tel: +7 495 4767500 Web: www.skmedvedkovo.boom.ru

Oktyabr 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks plus a paddling pool. Open daily: 07:00-23:00. Address: Zhivopisnaya ul., 21 Metro: Schukinskaya Tel: +7 499 728 5390 Web: www.bassein-oktyabr.ru

Olympic Water Sports Center Large swimming complex: Outdoor Pool “Neptun” (50-meter), House of Swimming (25-meter and 50-meter indoor pools) and Water Sports Palace (two paddling pools). Open daily: 06:45-22:00. Address: Ibragimova ul., 30 Metro: Semyonovskaya Tel: +7 495 369 4803

Olympiysky Two 40-meter indoor pools, 33-meter pool with springboards and 10-meter diving board. Open: 07:00-22:45. Address: Olympiisky prosp., 16 Metro: Prospekt Mira Tel: +7 495 786 3266 Web: www.olimpik.ru

Setun Health Complex 25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks, teen’s 15-meter pool (6-16 years old) and a paddling pool (4-6 years old). Open daily: 08:00-21:00. Address: Tolbukhina ul., 10 Metro: Kuntsevskaya Tel: +7 495 444 9223 Web: www.setunsport.ru

Torpedo 25-meter pool with a paddling pool. Open: Mon-Sat 07:15-18:45, Sun - 08:00-16:15. Address: Avtozavodskaya ul., 21 Metro: Avtozavodskaya Tel: +7 495 675 0279

Ostankino 25-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool. Open daily: 08:00-22:00. Address: Bolshaya Marfinskaya ul., 7a Metro: Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Tel: +7 495 619 9912 Web: www.sportclub-ostankino.ru

Beaches “Serebryannyi Bor” Take the trolleybus from Polezhaevskaya or Shchukinskaya Metro Stations. “Strogino” Take the bus 357m from Strogino metro “Vodnoe Dynamo”

Community Services List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with. If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Kidsave

Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future. Our Programmes: ‘Teen Mother’ programme helps vulnerable young mothers and pregnant girls learn how to care for their babies, experience the joy of motherhood, and stop the dreadful cycle of ‘inherited orphan hood’. ‘Strong Shoulders’ is a social adaptation and mentoring program that works with orphans and young adults. ‘Corporate Mentoring’ is a program designed to give older children in orphanages exposure to the workplace. You Can Help: In becoming a Kidsave Corporate Sponsor/Donor, you can give hope to orphan children and graduates and help create more favourable conditions for their future. For additional information, please contact Alexander Mzhelsky at: a.mzhelsky@kidsave.org or +7 (985) 970 9019

Downside Up

About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. They develop and learn under a guidance of special education professionals, and they can go on learning at pre-schools and schools. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome Elena Lubovina Downside Up 14A Parkovaya Str., Moscow, 105043 Russia Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536 lubovina@downsideup.org ________________________

Kitezh

Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster

Kittens to give away? 94

families. The aim is to create a developing environment for the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction. Contact: Kitezh Centre representative Katya Gurkina Tel: +7 916 975 1603 kitezhcentre@yandex.ru http://www.kitezh.org/en/ index.php

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’

Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities. Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for participants from Moscow and Moscow region. Open Art has developed

methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities. Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. Email: i nfo@metopenart.com http://metopenart.com/ ________________________

Diema’s Dream

Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia. The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. Who We Support • Charity House, a Russian non-governmental organization (NGO) in Moscow. Charity House is the first and only one of its kind in Russia. The Moscow City government considers their work with disabled orphans to be a model for orphanage reform. Unfortunately, lack of funding has made it impossible for the government to apply the

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Community Services List of Charities Charity House standards of child care to other orphanages • Association of Down’s Syndrome (ADS) program in Moscow. Academician Bochvar Street, 10A Moscow Russia 123098 International: 011-7-495-942-4003 sa5557@yandex.ru sergey@ddfund.ru ________________________

Moscow Animals

Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email. info@moscowanimals.org http://moscowanimals.org/ ________________________

United Way

The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people Mission Fostering responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest

possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. 14 Nizhnyaya Str., Bldg. 1, office 5, Moscow, 125040 Tel./Fax: + 7 (495) 780-97-18 info@unitedway.ru ________________________

MPC Social Services

MPC Social Services is one of the longest serving charitable organizations in Moscow. It is a registered Russian charitable organization and an established 501(c)3 non-profit in the United States that addresses poverty and hunger, and provides medical care and education for Moscow’s poor, including women, children, families, pensioners, economic migrants, and refugees. To volunteer or donate, please visit our website at www.mpcss.org. www.mpcss.org ________________________

Big Brothers Big Sisters Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children. In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once

a week for at least one year. Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative. Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow. http://nastavniki.org To become a volunteer leave an application http://nastavniki.org/ruapplication/ or call +7 (495) 500 40 42 Please keep in mind that you need a good knowledge of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well. ________________________

Nastenka

The charitable foundation helping children with cancer ‘Nastenka’ was founded in 2002. The main objective of the foundation is  to increase the quality of diagnostics and treatment of children with oncological diseases, as well as to revive the tradition of charity in Russia. The foundation works in the Scientific Research Institute for Pediatric Oncology and Hematology of the largest Russian cancer center. For 11 years, the foundation has helped thousands of sick children and purchased large number of expensive modern medical equipment for a hospital: two ventilators, an x-ray machine, a dialysis machine, blood separator and much more.

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Together with ‘Nastenka’ Charitable Foundation You can help Children with Cancer! +7 (495) 980-53-77, +7 (495) 585-41-01 www.nastenka.ru You can contact us by phone +7 (495) 980-53-77, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka. ru Additional information can be obtained by calling +7 (495) 980-53-77,  +7 (495) 585-41-01,  www.nastenka.ru ________________________

Overcoming

This charity, which has been helping children for 20 years, uses horses as part of its therapy. Artem Ivanov, who is in charge of physiotherapy at the centre, and semiparalyzed himself from the waist down, explains: “To control the movements of a horse as it moves means that the rider has to be able to control all the main muscle groups in his [the rider’s] legs, as well as his hands. This creates a training base for riders with any kind of movement problems. A horse’s temperature is two degrees warmer than ours, and because of this, the rider’s muscles warm up and relax. All this has a tremendously positive effect on the rider’s coordination and balance. To help, contact Hugh Mc Earney, Secretary of the Irish Business Club via http:/www. moscowirishclub.ru/

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Community Services Essential Information Emergency Phone Numbers

Fire fighters 01 Police 02 Ambulance 03 Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09 Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911 _________________________________

in distress. Available 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian. Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone. Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency. Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child. Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents. If you have a copy of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do. Important: For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen. _________________________________

Pharmacies (Apteki)

Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a few number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant. _________________________________

Medical help

International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients) +7 495 937 6477

American Medical Centers

(24 hours service) +7 495 933 7700

European Medical Center

French, British and American experts) 7 495 510 54 14 International crisis Line Tel: 8 926 1133373 This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates people

What to do if you lose your passport Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department for your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as

Taxi Services in Moscow

In Moscow any car is a taxi, and you will quickly notice how Muscovites get around by simply sticking out a hand and jumping into the first car that stops. If your Russian is up to the negotiations, you can try this for yourself, although you have to maintain an element of caution. Official taxis are more expensive, but still cheap by European standards unless, of course, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re being ripped-off. The market is increasingly competitive, and a number of well-established firms now run large fleets of cars with regulated fares. Official taxis come in a variety of guises, some yellow markings and a yellow roof-light. Taximeters are not used in all cars, often the sum is defined at the order. Pre-booked transfers are the most comfortable and convenient way of getting from the airport

Community Services Essential Information to your final destination, and they don’t have to be expensive. More and more companies are offering discount transfer services in Moscow. So, if you don’t want the hassle of dealing with crowded public transport after a long flight, book a car and driver to meet you at the airport and take you directly to your hotel. Your hotel will be able to give you the numbers of Englishspeaking taxi companies. Taxi companies with operators who understand English: Angel-Taxi.com feedback@taxi-angel.com + 7 (495) 956 0 800 + 79-ANGEL-TAXI Bee Car +7 495 979 4810 www.bee-car.ru Moscow Taxi + 7 499 995 0654 www.taxi-in-moscow.com Taxi 956 +7 495 956 8956 www.taxi956.ru Gorodskoe Taxi +7 495 500 0500 www.500-0-500.ru Eurasia Taxi +7 495 647 1111 www.eurasiataxi.ru VIP Taxi Moscow +7 495 991 6173 www.taxi749.ru NewMoscowTaxi +7 495 780 6780 www.newmoscowtaxi.ru Formula Taxi +7 495 777 5777 www.formula-taxi.ru Slujba +7 495 918 0101 www.taxi918.ru _________________________________

Getting to Moscow’s Airports Moscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo. You can get a taxi (fares range between 1200 and 2300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers

may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All three airports are now served by aeroexpress shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day. The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 +7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station. The Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 5:30 to 00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

Domodedovo Airport

http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there: The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station. Tickets which come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you need it to get out of the station at the airport. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 6am to midnight. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the taxi if you arrive during the night. Leaving your car in the long-stay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score.

Vnukova Airport

http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there: 1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f ) (express) bus. You need to listen carefully to the prerecorded stop announcements. Your stop is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so, so to be sure you get there on time and the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes. You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage. 2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport. They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour. Fare is 130 roubles plus another RUB 10 for every extra item of baggage. 3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station). Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your left-hand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.

Community Services Essential Information Paying for your mobile telephone at a terminal There are many different makes and models of pay machines which handle mobile phone payments in use in Moscow, however most of them work in the same way.

services you want. The Russian words: ‘ОПЛАТА УСЛУГ’ (payment for services) are what you want.

Step 2.

Step 1.

Identify the service you need: The first ‘home’ screen will ask you what kind of

operating the terminal has signed up for. Fortunately, to keep things simple, the logos for the most popular mobile telephone companies are displayed on the top row.

Step 3.

Identify the service you want: You will be presented by an array of services which indicate the various services which the company

Having identified your mobile telephone ‘operator’ by its logo, you will then be asked to key in your telephone number.

Having done this, you hit the button which says ‘ВПЕРЕД’ (NEXT). On most terminals this is coloured orange, but make sure you don’t inadvertently press any other buttons which may download various entertainment programmes onto your phone.

Step 4.

Pay. You insert notes into the machine and the amount you have paid comes up on screen minus commission. You then hit the button: ОПЛАТИТЬ (PAY).

That’s it!