FOOD & DRINK
JULY 2009 SAN DIEGO DOWNTOWN NEWS
11
Go to: www.sdnews.com/pages/dining for more dining information
Retsina: Better late than never It’s funny that a place like Greece would be playing catch-up with the rest of the world’s winemaking trade. After all, Dionysus is classical mythology’s Greek god of wine and the patron deity of things that go so well with it, like agriculture and theater and stuff. Somehow, fact and myth were separated at birth, leaving Greece an also-ran against the likes of France, the United States and the Democratic Republic of Mars. That is, up until the last three decades or so. In that short time, Greece has taken steps to revolutionize virtually all its winemaking technology (the introduction of stainless steel barrels, mega-meetings with wine experts from Western Europe, due diligence on the infrastructure of its arbors). And if you score a bottle of Boutari retsina—any bottle of Boutari retsina—you’ll taste the result. The Greeks have been drinking their native retsina for about 2,000 years— there’s something they like about ridiculously lengthy fermentation,
especially if it involves ridiculously sugary grapes. The Boudari brand, made at any of its six wineries scattered throughout Greece, has undergone the same recent upgrades as the rest of Greek viticulture; its retsina yields the same hint of antiquity, yet the product’s purity is assured. Retsina is really good with traditional Greek food like souvlaki and feta cheese—and at $10.99 a bottle at good wine stores, it’s even better. The taste is plump and maybe not what you’re used to, but, hey— Dionysius didn’t get to where he is by living his life indoors. If retsina was good enough for him, it better be good enough for you.
This wine’s no joke Late comedian Georgie Jessel said it for all misogynists when he threw caution to the wind and tweaked that other gender on a national talk show about a thousand years ago. Knowing that wine pairing is akin to high art in some circles, Jessel used the analogy to slam home his assessment of the female intellect: “I’d love to date women,”
he warbled, “but I don’t know anything about which wines they serve with peanut butter.” In the abstract, Jessel was on to something. These days, those funmeisters over at the winery are putting their fare up against any cultural staple that seems remotely like a good fit, everything from popcorn to animal crackers. That’s where Jessel’s crack about peanut butter loses a lot of its oomph—because, indeed, a couple swigs of the 2005 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages Burgundy beautifully balances out peanut butter’s formidable side effects. This stuff is really, really grapey and really, really wet, cutting through the salt and oil that give peanut butter its staying power. Go ahead. Slather that glop over a salt cracker. This Burgundy can withstand any dry thing you can dish out, clearing your palate for the next round without complaint. Peanut butter may be a pedestrian commodity, but the same can’t be said of this wine. All you have to do to test the theory is visit any decent wine store (preferably during business hours), fork over $9.99 and sit back and
marvel at this selection’s grit. If Jessel had lived to try it, maybe he’d have copped a clue about the way to a woman’s heart. And maybe there’d be one more comedy writer swelling the unemployment rolls.
Cold comfort from the Denali Winery Did you know that Alaska is our easternmost state? It’s true, dammit, and all your fervent, teary denials won’t make it any less so. A sliver of the Aleutian Islands crosses 180 degrees longitude, where West gives way to East. And since most of that longitude includes the International Date Line, some people think Alaska observes two days at the same time. The cartographers are more prudent than that. They made it so the Date Line skirts the Aleutians and thus includes them in a continuous 24hour cycle—so dry your eyes, already. Alas, then, the locals can’t in good conscience hoist a beverage to that elusive extra day. If they could, they’d likely be quaffing something from the Denali Winery, home to a
surprising array of stuff from a state where wine manufacture is hardly a public mantra. But this venue does hold its own and then some in the “different” department—the cold-weather fruits and wildberries it uses are hardier and more persistent in their fight for survival, and the taste and finish of any of its Merlots reflect that. The textures are plump and vaguely brittle, a highly interesting match with edgier cheeses and thicker meats like moose, caribou and venison (which Alaskans eat regularly). You have to develop a taste for such fare, and you might find the same is true of this wine. The Denali Winery, out of Anchorage, has been in business only since 1997, a drop in the bucket against the more renowned estates around here. But it’s a great base from which to learn more about Alaska, and at $19.99, its Merlots are an inexpensive means to rethinking your palate. Now, get on www.denaliwinery.com or down to one of the better wine stores and test the theory—but not before one last gargantuan blow of the nose. There, there.
Andiamo Ristorante Italiano & Bar Join Us Every Wednesday for Live Music in the Bar! Special Happy Hour from 4:30-6:30 Every Saturday Evening on the Patio 50% Off Wines!!! Go to our website for More Information on Special Events! www.andiamo-ristorante.com
Bleu Boheme French Bohemian Restaurant & Bar. Early Bohemian Menu 3 Courses ONLY $22 per person. Served 7 Days a Week from 5-6 pm Now Also Available All Night Every Tuesday!!! For Menu Details and Reservations~www.bleuboheme.com
Hot New Winebar: Wet Stone Wet Stone winebar, known for its tropical white sangria, Is a unique and boutique winebar that has been a favorite oenophile & gastronomic hangout to many san diegan’s for the last year and a half. Still very much a secret spot for many, emphasizing more than just the typical winebar fare. Locally grown proprietor/chef Christian Gomez Takes pride in offering brazilian-style moqueca seafood stew to pair with an Austrian gruner vetliner and a popular Argentineanstyle churrasco plate with a bold uruguayan tannat. Soon to come: food from peru! Shhh! Make it your secret hangout!
EXPERIENCE A TASTE OF MEXICO AT
El Indio POWER LUNCH
SMALL BITES & BIG GLASSES
TUES -FRI 11AM - 2PM
WED - SUN 4PM - 9PM
1927 FOURTH AVE. BANKERS HILL 619.255.2856
Est. 1972
Come Try Our Fish Tacos & Authentic Margaritas!
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner / 6:30am - 9pm Daily 1502 Market St. / San Diego / 619-238-9674 www.salazarsfinemexicanfood.com
Since 1940, El Indio has been dedicated to delivering the finest Mexican food in the world. We are the birth place of the “Taquito” and make fresh tortillas daily. Our authentic Sonora style Mexican cuisine is made with traditional herbs and spices. Specific ingredient Information is available upon request. El Indio has won the Gold Medallion for Best Mexican Casual Dining from the California Restaurant Association. Our food is prepared without preservatives or additives & is the Freshest Mexican Food In Town.
Salazar’s Taco Shop Salazar’s Taco Shop Began as a dream in 1945 and turned into a reality in 1972. The owner and founder, Frank Salazar, began working at the age of 14 in the kitchen of the La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe under the supervision of a German chef named Konrad. Today the “taste of home” quality of the food is enjoyed by many long-time customers and some of our new neighbors who are becoming our new regulars. Some comments include, “The food has such Mexican flavor” and “the menudo tastes just like my mom’s.” Some of our house specialities are Caldo de Pescado, which is enjoyed by local divers, Camarrones al Mojo de Ajo and more. The staff has been a part of Salazar’s for more than 20 years and are a big part of the success we enjoy. The fine food at Salazar’s can be enjoyed seven days a week, 6:30 am until 9 p.m. Breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as food to go are served all day. Bulk food orders with advance notice are available. The margaritas are real and the bottled beer is cold. The best thing I’ve ever been told by a customer is that “there’s a genuine-ness about this place.” We began advertising the the Downtown News in November 2007 and it has proven to be the most effective advertising we have ever tried. Jason, our representative at the paper, urged us to try it and we are glad we did. — Salazar’s Taco Shop For more information on the Dining Guide, call Jason (858) 270-3103 x116
As
seen on th e
“Dinners, Drive-ins and Dives”
Gold Medallion Winner 2009 Best Mexican Casual Dining California Restaurant Association
619-299-0333 Office Catering Available:
619-299-0385 3695 India St. San Diego Exit 1-5 at Washington Street www.el-indio.com
For more information on the Dining Guide call:
JASON GREGORY 858.270.3103 x116