FEAST
Pacific Grill
PEARLS ON THE PALATE
KYLE JOHNSON
Puget Sound is prime bivalve territory BY MEGAN HILL Oysters—those complex creatures whose shape, size, texture, and flavor hint at the fogshrouded inlet or quiet cove from which they originated—thrive in brackish water with a steady influx of fresh water, like the frigid snowmelt from the Cascade and Olympic Mountains that feeds the Puget Sound. Shellfish experts use the term “merroir” to describe the effects an oyster’s growing environment has on its texture and flavor. Weather plays a role, too. Rainfall will change salinity of the water—and the flavor of the oyster, says Jon Rowley of Taylor Shellfish Farms. “Oysters can get pretty bland after a heavy rain. The taste is also affected when the bay doesn’t get enough rain.” Each type of oyster tells a different story in its flavor profile, and one species of oyster, grown in different places with slight variations in weather and nutrients, will inherit different flavor profiles. For example, while the Shigoku and the Peale Passage Pacific are the same species, the Shigoku is saltier. Chubby Totten Virginicas, grown in the Totten Inlet of
the South Sound, are sweet and creamy, thanks to a steady diet of rich microalgae. Totten-grown oysters are also fattier than those from most other bays. Bivalves grown elsewhere—like the small, bright Kusshis—lack noticeable glycogen content, but have a serious taste of seawater. Farms cultivate oysters differently, too. Shigokus are tumbled four times a day, which encourages them to grow a deeper-than-average cup—perfect for slurping. The best way to experience nuances in flavor and texture is to try several types of raw oysters side by side. Head to Top of Tacoma for Taylor Shellfish Fridays, where chefs whip up multiple preparations of regionally harvested oysters. Pacific Grill picks what’s fresh for a daily chef’s selection on the half shell, while The Social Bar and Grill also dishes up local oysters fried. In Gig Harbor, Tides Tavern serves raw, fried, or baked oysters from neighboring Minterbrook Oyster Farm. Pacific Grill 1502 Pacific Ave; pacificgrilltacoma.com / The Social Bar and Grill 1715 Dock St; thesocialbarandgrill.com / Tides Tavern 2925 Harborview Dr, Gig Harbor; tidestavern.com / Top of Tacoma 3529 McKinley Ave E; topoftacoma.com
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