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Powered Up
RV Generator Maintenance
Taking Care of Rubber Roofs
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Tools of the Trade page 12
Keeping Water Safe
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August/September 2012
Generators 5 Cleaning and maintaining generators
Roof Repair
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9 The care and repair of rubber roofs
Tools and Supplies 12 Finding the right tool for the right job
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Water Systems 14
Keeping RV water
systems clean and safe
Top This!
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16 The (almost) unexplainable
DEPARTMENTS 3
Board of Directors
4
From the Editor
18 New Products 19 Recalls
Certification Page 22
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RV LEARNING CENTER BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Chairman Jeff Pastore Hartville RV Center Inc. Hartville, OH (330) 877-3500 jeff@hartvillerv.com
Director Eleonore Hamm RVDA of Canada Richmond, BC (604) 204-0559 eleonore_hamm@rvda.ca
Director John Myers Myers RV Center Inc. Albuquerque, NM (505) 298-7691 j.myers@myersrv.com
Vice Chairman Dan Pearson PleasureLand RV Center Inc. St. Cloud, MN (320) 251-7588 D.Pearson@pleasurelandrv.com
Director Andy Heck Alpin Haus Amsterdam, NY (518) 842-5900 aheck@alpinhaus.com
Director Tim O'Brien Circle K RVs Inc. Lapeer, MI (810) 664-1942 t.obrien@circlekrvs.com
Secretary/Treasurer Bill Koster Protective St. Louis, MO (636) 536-5704 bill.koster@protective.com
Director Jeff Hirsch Campers Inn of Kingston Kingston, NH (603) 642-5555 jhirsch@campersinn.com
President Phil Ingrassia, CAE RVDA Fairfax, VA (703) 591-7130 pingrassia@rvda.org
Director Rick Horsey Parkview RV Center Smyrna, DE (302) 653-6619 rhorsey@parkviewrv.com
Director Randy Packard Natl Assn of RV Parks & Campgrounds/Pine Acres Family Camping Resort Oakham, MA (508) 882-9511 opa203@aol.com
Director Bob Been Affinity RV Service Sales & Rentals Prescott, AZ (928) 445-7910 bobbeen@affinityrv.com
Director Newt Kindlund Kindlund Investments Winter Park, FL (407) 628-4211 newt@kindlund.com
Director Randy Biles Pikes Peak Traveland Inc. Colorado Springs, CO (719) 596-2716 rwbiles@pikespeakrv.com
Director John McCluskey Florida Outdoors RV Center Stuart, FL (772) 288-2221 john@floridaoutdoorsrv.com
Director Mick Ferkey Greeneway Inc. (Route 66 Dealer) Wisconsin Rapids, WI (715) 325-5170 mickferkey@greenewayrv.com
Director Matthew Miller Newmar Corporation Nappanee, IN (574) 773-2381 mlmiller@newmarcorp.com
Director Steve Plemmons Bill Plemmons RV World Rural Hall, NC (336) 377-2213 steve@billplemmonsrv.com Director Jim Sheldon Monaco RV, LLC Rancho Mirage, CA (760) 883-5556 jim.sheldo@monacorv.com Director Tom Stinnett Tom Stinnett RV Freedom Center Clarksville, IN (812) 282-7718 tstinnett@stinnettrv.com Director Brian Wilkins Wilkins R.V. Inc. Bath, NY (607) 776-3103 bwilkins@wilkinsrv.com
RV LEARNING CENTER STAFF
Phil Ingrassia, CAE RVDA Education Foundation President
Chuck Boyd Dealer Services Manager
Liz Shoemaker Education Coordinator
Ronnie Hepp, CAE Vice President for Administration
Hank Fortune Director of Finance
Butch Thomas Field Representative
Karin Van Duyse Chief, RV Learning Center
Jeff Kurowski Director of Industry Relations
Tony Yerman RV Service Consultant
Mary Anne Shreve Editor
Brett Richardson, Esq., CAE Director of Legal & Regulatory Affairs
Trish Williams Accounting Clerk
Julianne Ryder Marketing Communications Specialist
Julie Anna Newhouse Marketing Manager
Isabel McGrath Technician Certification Registrar
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FROM THE EDITOR
August/September 2012
Staying Powered Up Welcome to the fall issue of RV Technician. A smoothly operating and trouble-free generator is essential for your customer’s happiness. Certain basic maintenance needs to be performed annually, regardless of whether the unit’s operating hours are less than the numbers specified by the manufacturer, according to Generac. Changing the engine oil and filter and refilling with oil of the proper viscosity grade is the first step, followed by changing out the air filter, cleaning spark plugs, and checking the battery. Get more details in “RV Generator Maintenance,” starting on page five. Rubber roofs are not only popular but easy to maintain and repair. Dicor Products’ technical team explains how to mend rips and punctures in the roof membrane and how to clean roofs using only the proper products that are formulated not to damage them. Read more in “Taking Care of Rubber Roofs” on page 9.
Carpenters go to lumber yards for their supplies, plumbers go to plumbing supply stores, and auto technicians buy from tool trucks and auto manufacturers. But where do RV technicians—who wear all of those hats and more—go to find the right tools? Master tech Tony Yerman frequently gets asked by both new and experienced techs about where to find the right tools for RV repair. He has compiled some helpful tips and a list of Internet sites to check out. His story, “Tools of the Trade,” starts on page 12. Finally, read about how to keep RV water systems clean and safe in the SHURflo story that starts on page 14. This article outlines the amount of time and chemicals needed to make sure bacteria, viruses and sediment are removed. Mary Anne Shreve Editor 3930 University Drive Fairfax, VA 22030 mashreve@rvda.org (703) 591-7130 x117
RV Technician Advisory Group Randy Biles, Pikes Peak Traveland Inc. Tom Fribley, Fribley Technical Services Inc. Ellen Kietzmann, Blue Ox Gary Motley, Motley RV Repair Steve Savage, Mobility RV Service Tony Yerman, RV Service Consultant
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Generators
RV Generator Maintenance From Generac
A smoothly operating, trouble-free onboard generator is important to RV owners and ensures a happy camping experience. Make sure that customers’ generators receive proper attention at recommended intervals. Perform scheduled maintenance annually, even if total operating hours are less than the number of hours specified by the manufacturer. This article identifies key maintenance operations that are critical to keep generators running smoothly.
Proper maintenance minimizes operational problems and reduces overall expenses; here are some quick tips. • Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and only use authorized parts. This is important in maintaining warranty coverage and extending the life of the unit. • Always refer to the owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommendations on the service and repair of the equipment. Changing the engine oil and filter Scheduled maintenance begins with changing the engine oil and refilling the unit with oil of the proper viscosity grade, depending upon the anticipated temperature environment. For normal operation at temperatures above freezing, use SAE 30 grade. For colder temperatures between 40 degrees F and -10 degrees F, use 10W30. For extremely cold temperatures below -10 degrees F, use synthetic 5W30 grade. To change the oil, run the engine for about five minutes until it is thoroughly warm, and
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then shut it off. Place a suitable container underneath the front of the engine to catch the old oil. Turn the old filter counterclockwise and remove it, allowing oil to drain into the container. Locate the oil drain hose inside and pull the drain plug out of the access hole. Turn the cap counterclockwise to remove and drain the oil. After you remove the oil, replace the drain plug by tightening it clockwise. Clean off the oil filter bracket and any lubricant that might have spilled while draining. Apply a light
Changing the engine air cleaner To remove the air cleaner cover, turn the plastic knob one quarter turn counterclockwise, and then pull the top of the cover out as it hinges on the bottom of the air cleaner base. Separate the cover by lifting up, out from the base, then pull out the old filter, and discard it safely.
coating of clean oil to the gasket of the new oil filter. Screw on the new oil filter by hand until its gasket lightly contacts the oil filter adapter, and then tighten the filter. Replace and secure the round access grommet. Dispose of, or recycle the old oil in an environmentally safe manner. To replenish the oil supply, remove the dipstick and add the new oil, but do not overfill. Always refer to the owner’s manual for specific model capacity. Install and tighten the plug and dipstick before starting the engine. Run the engine to check for leaks. To check the oil level, remove the dipstick and clean it with a clean cloth. Install and tighten the dipstick cap, then remove it again. The oil level should be at the dipstick “Full” mark. If necessary, slowly add oil through the oil fill cap until it reaches the dipstick “Full” mark. After running the engine, you should check the oil level and refill if needed.
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Install the new filter in its place on the air cleaner base, and then interlock the cover to hinge with the base. Align the cover and gently push the top closed. Engage the plastic knob and turn it clockwise one quarter turn to secure it. Checking the engine spark plugs Clean the area around the base of the spark plugs before removing them to keep dirt and debris out of the engine. Remove the spark
plugs and check their condition. Replace them if worn. Clean the base by scraping with a wire brush or washing with a commercial solvent. Check the gap by using a wire feeler gauge and compare to the recommended interval listed in the owner’s manual. If necessary, adjust the gap by carefully bending the ground electrode and measuring again. With the plugs threaded firmly back in place, inspect the plug wires and terminals to ensure a snug fit. Sparking can occur if the wire terminal does not sit firmly on the plug’s terminal end. If necessary, re-form or replace the wire terminal to ensure a tight fit.
To remove the screen, loosen and take out the retaining screw, then slide out the screen from the exhaust pipe. Inspect the screen and replace it if torn, perforated, or otherwise damaged. Always replace a defective screen. If it’s not damaged, clean it with a commercial solvent, reinsert it in the pipe, then replace and tighten the retaining screw to hold it in place. Battery maintenance Inspect the battery posts and cables for corrosion. Clean with a wire brush to
Replacing the fuel filter For gasoline engines, remove and replace the fuel filter every 400 hours of operation, or more often if necessary, especially if the engine seems to be operating poorly. Refer to the manual for recommended intervals. remove corrosion deposits and tighten as necessary. Be sure to connect positive and negative cables to the corresponding poles because damage will occur if reversed. Check the fluid level of unsealed batteries and fill with distilled water if necessary. Do not use tap water.
Cleaning the spark arrestor The engine exhaust muffler has a spark arrestor screen, which should be inspected and cleaned every 200 hours of operation or once a year, whichever comes first.
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Using an automotive-type battery hydrometer, check the state of charge and compare to the battery’s rating. Recharge or replace the battery if necessary.
Keep the generator as clean and dry as possible. Inspect the housing to ensure that it remains intact and able to protect the generator from road spray and dirt.
Cleaning the generator
Moisture inside the unit is detrimental, so do not clean the unit with water or sprays. If dust is visible, wipe accessible surfaces with a cloth and cleaning solvent, or carefully use compressed air or a vacuum to expel or remove loose particles. Proper maintenance according to the manufacturer’s guidelines is the key to customer satisfaction. By following these easy steps, you’ll help keep your customers happy and on the road.
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Roof Maintenance
Taking Care Of Rubber Roofs From Dicor Products Technical Team
Rubber roofs are the number one choice for today’s RVs. More than 2 million units with rubber roofs are now on the road. They require less lifetime maintenance, eliminate “roof rumble,” and have passed the ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) 20-year accelerated aging test with no discoloration. First introduced in the 1960s, rubber roofs’ popularity started in the 1970s, and by the 1980s they accounted for 40 percent of the RV roofing market. Today, they account for upwards of 70 percent of RV roofs. EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) is one of the most versatile and long-lasting materials used for rubber roofs. It is costeffective and easy to maintain and repair. EPDM provides excellent resistance to ultra-violet rays, ozone, and oxidants and performs well under severe weather. Care and maintenance The care of a rubber roof begins with understanding how damage occurs. For example, EPDM roofing membranes are specially formulated to be more punctureresistant than ordinary rubber, but these
materials can still be cut or punctured by sharp objects. So be careful when placing items on the roof, walking on the roof, or parking under low-hanging tree branches. Avoid areas where fruit, tree sap, or harsh environmental fallout could stay on the roof for an extended period of time. These conditions may result in permanent stains. If your roof is exposed to such conditions, you may need to increase the frequency of your roof cleaning. Cleaning Caution: As with any roof surface, a rubber roof can be very slippery, especially when wet. When you’re on the roof, navigate on your hands and feet to distribute the weight more evenly and reduce the possibility of falling. Dicor recommends that rubber roofs be cleaned at least four times annually, using these steps: 1. Completely rinse the roof with clean water to remove loose dirt and debris.
Animal damage (left) and mold and mildew (right) are some common forms of roof damage. Page 9
2. Use a medium bristle brush and a concentrated cleaning agent mixed with two or three gallons of water. Work in small sections, starting at one end and working toward your point of exit. Scrub and rinse thoroughly with clean water to avoid residue buildup on the roof or sidewalls. 3. For difficult areas, repeat step two. 4. Caution: Do not use petroleum distillates to clean the roof—they may cause permanent damage. Roof protection After cleaning the roof, add a protective sealant that’s mild and non-abrasive. This kind of protection helps minimize oxidation, drying, and cracking, and leaves a finish that repels dust and water. It will help reduce fading from UV rays and keep surfaces cleaner longer. To use, spray the protectant onto the clean surface, out of direct sunlight. Wipe with a soft cloth or damp sponge mop for even coverage. For maximum protection, apply every three to five weeks or as necessary. Restore it! Over time, a roof will show signs of aging— but you can inject more life into it with roof restoration products (see the restoration difference in the photo below).
Dicor’s two-step restoration system combines a cleaner/activator that cleans and prepares the surface in one step and helps promote adhesion of the specially formulated EPDM rubber roof acrylic coating. This provides a protective shield to help extend the life of the membrane. This is recommended for older roofs and any roof that is tired, dirty, or stained. Caution: Do NOT use cleaners or conditioners containing petroleum products, hard abrasives, or citric-based cleaners. These products may cause irreparable damage to the roof and/or void your warranty. You may also need a lap sealant to touch up or replace existing lap sealants around roof protrusions such as vents, skylights, and trim strips. If the old sealant has pulled away from the roof, remove it and reseal. If it has only surface cracks, just seal over. A cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol to eliminate foreign material from the seal provides a good prep for the new sealant. Just make sure it dries (about 15 minutes) before putting on the new lap sealant. Repairs For heavy-duty repairs—those with extensive damage—Dicor has a peel-andstick product that comes in 6-inch or 12-inch widths by 25-foot lengths. For smaller repairs, it has 4-inch by 50-foot rolls of peeland-stick self-adhering material, and for very small repairs, there are 6-inch square patches. To repair a puncture or rip, clean the area with rubber roof cleaner, rinse thoroughly and allow to dry completely. Then, using a soft cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol, clean the area again and let dry. Cut the
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membrane to extend over the hole, making sure it overlaps the damaged area by two inches on all sides.
DO NOT use multiple patches for a single repair—use the correct size. It’s important to position any patch on the first try; the patch shouldn’t be lifted and repositioned. Frequently Asked Questions Here are answers to the most frequently asked questions about maintenance and repair of rubber roofs. Is it necessary to protect my rubber roof against UV rays? No, but Dicor products will give additional protection. If I use a roof treatment product containing petroleum distillates on my rubber roof, will that void my warranty? Yes. How can I tell if my RV’s previous owner damaged it by using petroleum distillates? What should I look for? Two things: swelling and uneven thickness of material, and loose areas. Petroleum distillates soak in and cause the adhesion to loosen and the membrane to balloon. When the ballooning goes down, the membrane may never adhere properly or completely. My roof seems to “oxidize” and run
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down the sides when it rains. Is this normal? Yes, it’s normal. By oxidizing, the EPDM rubber roof is protecting itself from damaging UV rays. Over the roof’s lifetime, this process claims about the thickness of two sheets of notebook paper. Cleaning at least four times a year will help greatly. Is it easy to repair tears in the roof membrane? Any tear in an EPDM roof membrane can be repaired using a number of repair methods. For instance, prepackaged peeland-stick repair kits work well on small tears (up to 8 inches), while larger kits should be used on large damaged areas. There are also rolls of peel-and-stick material for long, narrow tears. A supplier told me his roof treatment only had a small amount of petroleum distillate—about 10 to 30 percent. Is that OK to use on my roof? No. Usually the percentages are given based on weight. Since petroleum distillates are significantly lighter than water, the reality is that 30 percent by weight might be 40 percent or more by volume. THERE IS NO LEVEL OF PETROLEUM DISTILLATES THAT IS RECOMMENDED. Note: Dicor’s lap sealant contains a petroleum distillate used strictly in the curing process. As the sealant cures, the petroleum distillate evaporates. This will not harm your roof. The rubber roofing wraps over slightly on both sides of my RV and can be seen from the ground. What can I do about this? Clean the area and treat it with a product that will repel soiling and is safe for EPDM.
Tools & Supplies
Tools of the Trade By Tony Yerman
I get asked occasionally by both new and veteran technicians about where to find certain tools for trouble shooting, diagnosing, and repairing RVs and their components. Auto mechanics buy from tool trucks that show up at the dealership, carpenters buy from lumber yards, and plumbers from plumbing suppliers. But what about the RV technician? Where does he go? The RV industry is unlike most other industries. The scope of the RV technician isn’t labeled or defined as well as others. RV technicians need to think outside the box when it comes to repair techniques, parts and materials, and tools and equipment. Many tool companies and trade suppliers don’t even realize that they carry the kinds of tools RV technicians need. The RV industry considers itself to be part of the residential housing business. As such, RV techs have to wear many hats. And all of those hats mean we need many tool boxes. If we are home builders, than let’s consider what we need to fix a home. Each area of homebuilding and repair--such as carpentry, electrical, plumbing and appliances--will require certain specific tools. A carpenter needs saws and sanders, a plumber needs pipe wrenches and faucet Page 12
wrenches, an electrician needs meters, cutters and wire strippers. Some tools from one trade can be used by another, though going to the specific trade supplier should provide the best tools for the particular trade. Every city has suppliers for the trades--electric and plumbing supply stores, lumber yards, floor covering stores and appliance parts stores can be found almost anywhere. Just look online. There are local homeowner and automotive do-it-yourself stores such as Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, and NAPA that offer a variety of tools for both the novice and professional. And there are stores that supply the trades directly, such as W.W. Grainger or Northern Wholesale, that tend to have discounted tools and that target cost-conscious tradesmen. So, are there any RV-specific tools and, if so, where does one find them? RV-specific items such as awning nutsert tools, water heater cleaning tools and attachment wrenches, circuit board testers, thermocouple testers, ground fault testers, trailer circuit testers, drill adapters for jacks, manometers, leak detectors, battery load
testers, water line clamp ring crimpers, are all available through RV aftermarket distributors like Stag-Parkway and NTP. Suppliers and component manufacturers whose products require certain specialized tools usually supply them. Most of the time, you don’t know that you need a specific tool until you open the package and read the instructions. I know of a water tank supplier that sold fittings for its replacement tanks, but you didn’t know until you read the tank instructions that you needed a spin tool for a drill to install them. Be sure to mark specialized tools so you remember what they’re used for. If you can’t find a tool, it means either that you didn’t look hard enough or that the tool doesn’t exist. Try making one. I’ve seen all sorts of shop-made devices for jobs requiring tools that were no longer available. Pullers, valve removers, remote lighting and electrical monitors have all been made from necessity. I had one of my techs make up a bit for a drill which had a nut mounted to it for raising and lowering folding trailer roofs. It really reduced the amount of time it took to set them up and take them down, which helped when we had a sale over a weekend and had a bunch of them to get prepped the next week. So review your most common repairs and then study Internet sites, tool trucks, and local stores to find which tools are the most suitable for those jobs. It pays to think outside the box when it comes to collecting the best tools. You may get to test your creativity and, who knows--maybe you’ll even invent a tool that everyone else has to have.
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RVDA Service Consultant Tony Yerman is a master certified technician, an Ohio repair specialist, an RV Technician advisory group member, and author of The RV Damage Repair Estimator. If you have questions or comments, contact him at tyerman@rvda.org.
Here are website links to some of the professional tool companies that supply to different trades. All of these can be helpful to the RV technician. Some have store locations to visit, some come to you, and some ship from on-line catalog orders. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catalog.asp http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/ http://www.craftsman.com/ http://www.senco.com/ http://www.harborfreight.com/handtools/flooring-tools.html http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/plumbingtools/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-979 http://www.binks.com/Home/Transportation/ tabid/1695/Default.aspx http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/solutions/a utomotive/
Water Systems
Keeping RV Water Systems Clean and Safe From SHURflo
RV water systems must be properly maintained to prevent sickness and disease. Chlorine protection in city water can dissipate in as little as 72 hours. If the system is already dirty and slimy, or has foul odors coming from it, you should clean and flush it. Be sure to remove any in-line filters and filter cartridges from their housings before performing any cleaning, flushing, disinfecting, and sanitizing. Filter housings should be removed and cleaned with a bleach solution when changing filter cartridges. Clean and flush Add four teaspoons of household detergent for every 10 gallons of tank water capacity. Fill the tank and slosh it around to coat the sides and top of the tank. Run each fixture full force to drive the soapy water through the system and dislodge slime and debris. Fill the tank with clean water and repeat the process to rinse the system clean. You may have to remove and clean faucet aerators if the flow has caused debris to lodge in the screens and reduce the faucet flow. Repeat the flush procedure as needed. System disinfection Next, disinfect the system with chlorine by introducing up to 200 parts per million (ppm) of chlorine into the system. Add 2/3 cup (six ounces) of standard household bleach for every 10 gallons of tank capacity and fill the tank. Slosh the tank around to coat the top and sides of the tank. Open each faucet separately and run water until the smell of Page 14
bleach is evident. Don’t forget the water heater. Let the system sit for an hour and open each faucet again. Run the water until the bleach smell is strong again. Repeat this procedure every hour until the smell is immediately noticeable. Let the system sit for another hour and drain the system. Fill the tank with clean water and flush. Periodic sanitization The plumbing system needs sanitizing after periods of non-use and any time the system is opened for maintenance or repair. Sanitize it yearly regardless of use. To sanitize, add 1/4 cup (two ounces) of bleach per 10 gallons of tank capacity. Fill the tank and slosh it around to coat the top and sides. Run each faucet until the smell of bleach is evident at every faucet. Don’t forget to run water through the water heater. Let the system sit for four hours, drain, and flush. Doubling the concentration reduces the wait time to one hour. Whole-house filtration If all of the water in the RV tank gets pumped through a canister-type filter using carbon or KDF, it is removing the chlorine that protects the water from microorganisms. It’s important to use antibacterial soaps and detergents with this type of system, and it should be flushed and sanitized before every use and after sitting for any extended period of time.
Point-of-use filtration If your system has a separate tap for drinking water, there is an in-line or housing-style filter under the sink so the water can stay chlorinated in the lines for added protection. This separate tap removes chlorine and impurities before the faucet and ice-maker and is one of the best ways to keep chlorinated water in the lines.
chlorine residual (R) and the time (T) for a 99 percent kill of various organisms at a given temperature (32 to 41 degrees F) and water pH (7 to 9). These tables use a D factor; a factor of 50 will get all the bacteria and viruses.
City water When hooked up to chlorinated city water at a campground, the system is protected for up to 72 hours of sitting idle. Using all of the fixtures daily should be sufficient to keep chlorine levels up to safe levels.
In addition, you may need to add more than a teaspoon of bleach to get the 6.7 ppm free chlorine residual.
Well water If the campground uses well water of unknown quality, use sediment and carbon filters or a two-stage sediment-carbon filter to fill the tank, and then superchlorinate the water in the tank to protect against any problems associated with removing the chlorine with your carbon filter. Superchlorination This is just a highlight of superchlorination. The surest way to guarantee safe water is to add a teaspoon (1/6 ounce) of household bleach per 10 gallons of clean water in your tank. This will raise the chlorine level to 6.7 ppm of free chlorine. The chlorine and any other impurities can be filtered out at the filter before the faucet is used for drinking water, cooking water, and the ice-maker. You need a contact time to go along with the concentration of 6.7 ppm free chlorine. The contact time is 7.5 minutes to kill 99 percent of the bacteria and viruses at the cold water temperatures and pH you will encounter. Scientists have developed tables for the relationship between the free Page 15
R X T = D(50) 6.7 x 7.5 = 50.25
Determining the chlorine dose You will need a chlorine test kit that measures free chlorine, not “total chlorine.” The surest way to guarantee safe water is to add a teaspoon (1/6 ounce) of household bleach per 10 gallons of water in your tank, wait five minutes, and then test for free chlorine with the test kit. The five-minute wait is to allow time for the chlorine to react with any iron, sulfide, ammonia, and/or organics, whatever may be present and acting as “oxidant demand” or “chlorine demand.” You must destroy the demand, if any, before any extra chlorine left over, called the residual, is available to do any disinfection. If you do not destroy the demand, the chlorine that would be measured with a total chlorine test would include any “combined chlorine” consisting of monochloramine, dichloramine, and organic chloramines derived from amino acids, which are all very poor disinfectants and also very weak oxidizers. If it’s lower than the 6.7 ppm, then add a few more drops of bleach until the free chlorine residual is 6.7 ppm or slightly higher after waiting five minutes, and testing.
Top This!
The (Almost) Unexplainable By Steve Savage
Three other techs had already been stumped by a coach’s intermittently tripping circuit breakers. The author came up with an ingenious new theory involving the coach’s transfer switch and AC compressor.
A call came in about a large, electrically challenged diesel pusher that had already defeated three technicians and added them to the notches on its belt. When the unit was on the road, with the generator serving up the power, the 50-amp main circuit breakers would unpredictably trip. Naturally, that killed the AC and whatever else was operating. To correct the problem, the owner would pull over, reset the breakers, and be on his way. Sometimes the breakers didn’t trip again for months, and sometimes they tripped within hours or days. But they never tripped unless the coach was in motion. Obvious solutions The logical diagnosis would seem to be weak breakers. And changing out the main breakers was exactly what the first three service centers had tried. It was possible that a short existed somewhere in the wiring, but ohming the mains to ground and neutral showed nothing but “OL” on my meter. Given that the obvious had already been done, I decided to go with a more exotic theory. I imagined the transfer switch points bouncing rapidly enough to short-cycle the Page 16
AC compressor jumping amperage to lock-up level. Normally, I would have expected the AC breaker to throw ahead of the main circuit breaker, but calls to product vendors suggested that my theory could not automatically be ruled out. Round two I dutifully checked amp draws at the main, powering up everything in the coach, even going so far as to run both ACs on their heat pump settings, but readings fell far short of those necessary to trip the breakers. I went through the transfer switch, and again found nothing amiss. The transfer switch vendor offered a free, just-in-case replacement but I deferred, having no desire to wrestle 6-gage wires onto a new switch in the absence of concrete findings. After several hours, I surrendered and credited the time spent to my education, rather than the owner’s checkbook. I completed a few minor repairs and turned the coach back over to its owner. For awhile, it seemed like maybe I had vanquished the gremlins.
They’re b-a-a-a-c-k! For several months, everything was fine--no tripped breakers. Then, while I was making some minor repairs on this same coach, the owner asked if I wanted to know what had been tripping the main breakers. It seems that, like the undead, the gremlins had reappeared, and the owner had accidently discovered the real problem. While he was resetting the breakers for the umpteenth time, he happened to notice that the closet doors hadn’t been latched. Like so many pushers, mirrored closet doors cohabitated on a dual track across the back wall of the coach. The door that normally slid over the breaker box was mounted in the outer track. The door gliding on the inner track was on the side opposite the breaker box and normally would never be slid all the way over the box. If, however,
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the doors weren’t latched and the coach swayed, the door on the inner track slid over the breaker box and the door flange caught the levers on the main breakers. Then, when the door slid the other way, it tripped the breakers. Latch the doors prior to hitting the road and the problem was solved. So I learned something valuable-sometimes an electrical problem has nothing to do with electricity. Steve Savage is a Master Certified RV technician, the owner/operator of Mobility RV Service in Bristol, TN, and a member of the RV Technician Advisory Group. His articles appear frequently in consumer and industry magazines.
New Products
Enviro-Logs Last Longer, Burn Cleaner Enviro-Logs are longlasting, clean-burning fire logs made of 100 percent recycled waxed corrugated cardboard. They generate more energy per pound than wood or other fire log brands, burn 60 to 70 percent cleaner than wood, and can be used for cooking, heating, wood stoves, and campfires. They’re easy to light, burn up to three hours, and can be used in combination with firewood. Enviro-Logs have been tested safe by Omni Consulting Services and found to meet both U.S. and Canadian standards for listed fireplaces and typical woodstoves. They can be used as a cooking fuel similar to wood or charcoal, an advantage not found in waxedsawdust fire logs. Enviro-Logs help the environment by using up some of the 600,000 tons of corrugated cardboard containers that are sent annually to landfills. Widow Wax Protects Finishes Widow Wax is a thin-film polymer coating, created with NASCAR technology to provide a high-gloss protective finish for all vehicles. It dries clear in cracks and crevices and is guaranteed not to leave a dusty residue. It’s safe for today’s paint jobs and all clear coats. Widow Wax brings back a lustrous finish to vehicles and works on chrome, aluminum, fiberglass, painted surfaces, wood, stainless steel, glass, and plastic, eliminating water spots, swirl marks, tar, tree sap, road film, and bug and bird stains. Page 18
“Brute” Power Jack Reduces Friction And Noise, Increases Motor Life
Husky Towing Products’ new Brute power jack takes the work out of setting up weight distribution hitch systems. The HB3000 can lift 3000 lbs., while the HB4500 can lift up to 4,500 lbs. Both have an outer diameter tube of 2 ¼ inches. The HB3000/2 can lift 3,000 lbs. and has an outer tube of two inches. All models fit any A-frame coupler. The Brute power jack is the only one in its price range with a ball screw design to reduce friction, meaning less noise and increased motor and jack life. A travel time as fast as 10 inches in 38 seconds makes for a fast hookup, while the 18-inch full stroke provides plenty of height. The HB3000 and HB4500 also come with a 6-inch adjustable dropdown leg. All Brute models feature three LED work lights to illuminate the full hookup area. A built-in connector storage bracket with a protective hood shields the open end of the plug from water and dirt. Also included are hardened steel gears, weather resistant motor and gear housings, and a 30A fuse and inline fuse holder.
Recalls
Dutchmen Furnace Recall Dutchmen is recalling certain model year 2010-2013 Breckenridge travel trailers manufactured from May 26, 2009, through May 2, 2012, and equipped with Atwood furnaces. The furnaces were produced with a defective gas control valve which can stick in the open position. If the valve sticks, gas could leak out and result in a fire. Dutchmen will notify owners, and dealers will repair the furnaces free of charge. Owners may contact Breckenridge Warranty Service Department at 1-800-223-2376 or NHTSA’s vehicle safety hotline at 1-888327-4236 or go to www.safercar.gov. Newmar Brake Recall Newmar Corporation is recalling certain model year 2008-2009 Grand Star Class A motorhomes built on Freightliner custom chassis from January 25, 2007, through May 22, 2009. These motorhomes’ chassis are equipped with Bosch hydraulic disc brakes which, if not driven for long periods of time, may experience diametrical brake caliper piston growth and reduced piston-tobore clearance, potentially leading to brake drag and overheating. This could result in reduced brake performance and crashes. Owners will be notified by Daimler Trucks/FCCC, and repairs will be performed by authorized FCCC dealers. Owners may contact Newmar at 1-574-773-7791 or Daimler Trucks at 1-800-547-0712 or NHTSA’s vehicle safety hotline at 1-888327-4236 or go to www.safercar.gov.
Page 19
Gulf Stream Brake Recall Gulf Stream Coach Inc. is recalling certain model year 2006-2008 Crescendo, Sun Voyager, Independence, Bounty Hunters, and Yellowstone Class A diesel pusher motorhomes built on Freightliner custom chassis from March 18, 2005, through December 2009. These motorhomes’ chassis are equipped with Bosch hydraulic disc brakes which, if not driven for long periods of time, may experience diametrical brake caliper piston growth and reduced piston-to-bore clearance, potentially leading to brake drag and overheating. This could result in reduced brake performance and crashes. Freightliner will notify owners, and dealers will repair the vehicles. Owners may contact GSC at 1-800-289-8787 or Daimler Trucks/FCCC at 1-800-547-0712 or NHTSA’s vehicle safety hotline at 1-888327-4236, or go to www.safercar.gov. Dutchmen Propane Line Recall Dutchmen is recalling certain model year 2013 Coleman 192 and Dutchmen 196 RVs manufactured from April 12, 2012, through July 9, 2012. These vehicles have been manufactured with the propane line in close proximity to the rear axle hanger, which could be damaged by the rear axle hanger bolt during travel. A leak could develop and in the presence of an ignition source could result in a fire or explosion. Dutchmen will notify owners, and dealers will inspect and, as necessary, replace and re-route the propane line. Owners may contact Dutchmen at 1-574-537-0700.
CrossRoads Tag Recall Crossroads is recalling certain model year 2013 Crossroads Cruiser trailers, manufactured from April 19, 2012, through July 17, 2012. These vehicles were manufactured with incorrect information on the Federal Identification Tag, Tire and Loading Information Label and the Recreational Vehicle Cargo Carrying Capacity Label. An inaccurate label could lead to improper vehicle loading specifications, which could in turn lead to tire failure. Crossroads will notify owners and provide corrected labels. Owners may contact Thor industries at 1-937-596-7965 or Crossroads at 1-260-593-2866. Jayco Electrical Recall Jayco is recalling certain model year 2007 Greyhawk Class C motorhomes; model year 2008-2010 Seneca Class C motorhomes; model year 2009 and 2011 Eagle fifth wheels; 2010 Recon fifth wheels; and model year 2008-2010 Designer fifth wheels manufactured from June 15, 2006, through August 13, 2010 for an improper electrical connection at the buss bar on the Iota-brand transfer switches installed in the vehicles. An improper electrical connection at the buss bar could lead to overheating and melting of the transfer switch, increasing the risk of a fire, injury or death. Jayco will notify owners, and dealers will replace the transfer switch. Owners may contact Jayco at 1-800-283-8267. Heartland LP Supply Line Recall Heartland RV is recalling certain model year 2011-2012 Elkridge and model year 20122013 Bighorn Silverado fifth wheels with liquid propane (LP) generators that may
Page 20
have the LP supply line connected incorrectly to the generator. If the LP supply line is connected incorrectly, the generator may vent liquid propane into the generator compartment. In the presence of an ignition source, the vented propane can result in an explosion. Heartland will notify owners and dealers will inspect and correct the LP supply line fitting as necessary. Owners may contact Heartland at 1-888-262-5992. Fleetwood Recalls Excursions Fleetwood RV is recalling certain model year 2013 Excursion motorhomes manufactured from March 27, 2012, through July 24, 2012. A threaded fastener installed on the turn shaft of the slide-out mechanism may come into contact with a portion of the diesel fuel fill hose while the turn shaft is rotating. If the fastener makes contact with the fuel fill hose, there is a possibility that it will abrade the fuel fill hose and cause a leak. Leaking fuel increases the risk of a fire. Fleetwood RV will notify owners, and dealers will inspect and, as necessary, shorten the threaded fastener to achieve clearance of the fuel line. Owners may contact Fleetwood RV owner relations at 1800-509-3418 or the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236, or go to www.safercar.gov.
The RV Learning Center proudly recognizes these
CONTRIBUTORS Additional/ New Contributions Received 7/01/11-8/24/12
Received 7/01/118/24/12
Total Received
Last Contribution
Received 7/01/118/24/12
Total Received
Last Contribution
Ace Fogdall, Inc.
$500
$37,100
12/27/11
MBA Insurance Inc.
$1,000
$14,100
05/14/12
AIRXCEL - RV Group
$500
$10,500
06/14/12
Mike Molino
$550
$11,311
07/03/12
All Valley RV Center
$500
$500
06/26/12
Motley RV Repair
$135
$8,075
11/04/11
$1,500
$17,000
06/29/12
Newell Coach
$1,000
$1,000
09/01/11
$30
$30
11/07/11
Newmar Corporation
$20,000 $135,000
10/28/11
Beckley’s Camping Center
$250
$250
06/05/12
Noble RV Inc.
Bowling Motors & RV Sales
$300
$300
12/16/11
$10,000
$36,000
Camperland of Oklahoma, LLC
$1,000
Campers Inn of Kingston
Alpin Haus Automotive Recruiting
Additional/ New Contributions Received 7/01/11-8/24/12
$500
$900
02/21/12
Pete’s RV Center
$1,000
$1,000
05/07/12
01/03/12
PleasureLand RV Center Inc.
$1,000
$76,350
12/16/11
$4,350
06/25/12
Protective
$23,118 $110,963
12/02/11
$5,000
$32,422
07/11/11
Quality Drive-Away Inc.
$250
$250
06/05/12
Camp-Site RV
$250
$250
02/01/12
RCD Sales Company, Ltd.
$500
$2,250
07/20/12
Circle K RVs Inc.
$250
$6,000
06/08/12
Reines RV Center Inc.
$2,000
$22,025
12/22/11
Classic RV’s, LLC
$10
$10
04/18/12
Rich & Sons Camper Sales
$2,000
$6,000
11/02/11
Dinosaur Electronics
$500
$750
06/13/12
Rivers Bus & RV Sales
$500
$17,350
06/15/12
Bill & Kristin Fenech
$2,500
$58,750
07/25/12
RV Assistance Corp.
$3,000
$26,000
11/23/11
Fretz Enterprises Inc.
$750
$750
06/18/12
RV Outlet Mall
$250
$1,800
06/14/12
$5,000
$18,300
09/05/12
Skyline RV & Home Sales Inc.
$1,250
$1,250
07/03/12
Hartville RV Center Inc.
$250
$10,500
06/11/12
Spader Business Management
$1,000
$1,000
12/02/11
Ronnie Hepp
$300
Tacoma RV Center
$1,000
$1,500
06/15/12
Hilltop Trailer Sales Inc.
$41
$1,622
07/20/12
Tiffin Motor Homes Inc.
$2,500
$21,000
04/18/12
$100
$100
04/13/12
Tom Stinnett Derby City RV
$500 $101,000
03/12/12
$1,000
$68,000
06/28/12
Topper’s Camping Center
$500
$3,000
06/18/12
$250
$2,750
08/07/12
United RV Center
$1,000
$2,000
10/17/11
$1,000
$18,500
12/27/11
United States Warranty Corp.
$1,000
$5,250
04/13/12
Kroubetz Lakeside Campers
$250
$250
12/02/11
Wilkins R.V. Inc.
$1,500
$15,100
06/28/12
Madison RV Supercenter
$500
$4,000
08/22/11
Winnebago Industries Inc.
$6,000
$34,000
09/30/11
Mayflower RV Inc.
$250
$250
07/27/12
The Kindlund Family Scholarship Endowment
Byerly RV Center
Greeneway Inc.
Holiday Hour Inc. Horsey Family Memorial Fund J. D. Sanders Inc. Jayco Inc.
$625 08/24/12
$270,000 Page 21
RV Technician Certification Preparation Course Every RV Technician Can Have Access to Individual Self‐Study Training and Certification Preparation Interactive-Multimedia, Online Format • Combines text, audio, graphics, and video, with mentor-led technician community forum – all content is online (no extra books or handouts needed)
Developed by RVIA Available through the RV Learning Center
Corresponds to RV Certification Test Sections • Propane; Electrical; Plumbing; Brakes, Suspension & Towing; Appliances; Generators; Hydraulics; Exterior; Interior; Expandable Rooms; Miscellaneous (Welding Safety, Customer Care) • Fulfills 40-hour RVDA-RVIA Service Technician recertification requirement • RVIA RV Service Technician recertification requirement
Personal Progress Tracking
• Automatically tracks individual’s progress • Quizzes after each chapter and section with immediate feedback • 205 question assessment that’s similar to the RV technician certification test
Registration information
$249 per technician*
Company: Address: City/State/Zip: Phone:
Fax:
In order for the program to function properly, each technician MUST have his own personal e-mail address that only he has access to.
*Quantity discounts available when registering four or more technicians at one time. E-mail info@rvda.org or call 703-591-7130 for details. Note: Registration fee subject to change without notice.
Sign up the following RV technicians from our dealership: Name: E-mail: Name: E-mail: Name: E-mail: Send progress reports to the following supervisor: Name:
Title:
E-mail:
Method of payment
Important: • The RV Technician Certification Preparation course offers RV service technicians the means to prepare for certification through an online, self-study format. A computer with high-speed Internet is needed to access the course. • Visit www.rvtechnician.com for information about the RVDA-RVIA RV Service Technician certification program. The certification testing fee is not included in the course registration fee. • Registration gives the technician 365 days to complete the course by achieving 80% or higher on the final practice test. The technician should plan for certification testing within the enrollment period since course extensions are not available.
All registrations must be pre-paid in U.S. funds.
□ Check enclosed (make check payable to The RV Learning Center) □ Send invoice (RVDA members only) □ VISA □ MC □ AMEX □ DISCOVER C Cardholder’sName:_____ Acct. number: Cardholder’s signature: Billing address:
Exp._______ Security code: _ Return completed form to: RVDA I 3930 University Drive I Fairfax, VA 22030 I Ph. (703) 591-7130 I Fax (703) 359-0152 www.rvlearningcenter.com I info@rvda.org
Page 22
10th Edition Service Management Guide (Flat Rate Manual) The expanded Service Management Guide offers over 100 pages of average work unit times for the most basic service functions performed by competent RV technicians. th
The 10 Edition of the Service Management Guide offers extensive updates and additions provided by dealers, service managers, and technicians.
It also offers all new Service Check Sheets that provide a valuable reference for service managers and technicians.
It is a great tool for the service department when working with extended service contracts.
The Service Management Guide is also available in CD-ROM.
The Service Management Guide is designed to provide reasonable guidance relative to the time required for competent technicians to complete assigned tasks. It is an important part of the service management system, but it is not intended to be the sole determinant of prices or rates charged in that sale of service. Manual or CD-ROM: RVDA Members $164.95
Non-Members: $330.00
Manual and CD-ROM: RVDA Members $275.00
Non-Members: $550.00
Order Online at http://www.rvlearningcenter.com - prices are subject to change without notice
Order Form – 10th Edition Service Management Guide (Flat Rate Manual) Name:____________________________________________________________________________________________ Company Name:___________________________________________________________________________________ Address:_________________________________________________________________________________________ City:__________________________________________State:________Zip Code:______________________________ Phone:___________________________________Fax:______________________E-mail:________________________ ___RVDA Member
___Non-RVDA Member Manual - # of Copies:___ CD-ROM - # of Copies:____
Method of payment (Please check one) ___Check enclosed (Made Payable to The RVDA Education Foundation) ___Send an invoice (members only) Credit Card: __Visa __Master Card __American Express Card Number:____________________________________________Expiration Date:___________________________ Name on Card:_____________________________________Signature:______________________________________ Billing Address:_________________________________________________________Billing Zip:_________________
Page 23
RVDA, 3930 University Dr, Fairfax, VA 22030 (703) 591-7130, Fax (703) 359-0152, Email: info@rvda.org
Online Training with FRVTA’s
DISTANCE LEARNING NETWORK supplier-specific advanced repair and troubleshooting classes designed to upgrade technicians’ skills. Completion of these classes qualifies for recertification hours. Classes are available 24/7 throughout the program year, providing maximum flexibility.
FRVTA–RV Learning Center Partnership $995 per year for each dealership location. Over 50 sessions available, 24 hours a day, seven days a week, with full access to training through July 31, 2013. The DLN offers your dealership: • • • • •
Onsite training Group training No travel time or expenses Self-determined pace One fixed price of $995 for the subscription term
• Service Writers/Advisors – This three-hour program is valuable for both new staff and experienced personnel preparing for the RV Learning Center’s Service Writer/Advisor certification. • Greeters/Receptionists – This 50-minute session is suitable for all employees who need customer service skills. It includes a final exam and certificate of completion.
The DLN offers online training for:
• RV Technicians – The certification prep course helps technicians get ready for the certification exam. Your subscription includes unlimited access to more • Dealers/GMs – This program features important topics for management, including lemon laws, LP gas than 50 training sessions, reviews, and test preparalicensing issues, and the federal Red Flags Rule. tion sections. Also included are manufacturer- and
DEALERSHIP REGISTRATION Company
Name:
Address:
City:
State:
Zip:
Phone:
Fax:
Mentor Name:
Phone:
E-mail (at dealership) :
Fax:
**High speed Internet access required. RVIA service textbooks not included** location(s) at $995 each = payment due: $
PAYMENT METHOD
❑
(select payment method below)
Complete lower section and mail or fax to:
PAY BY CHECK OR MONEY ORDER
❑
PAY BY VISA OR MASTERCARD
Florida RV Trade Association, 10510 Gibsonton Drive, River view, FL 33578, (813) 741-0488, Fax: (813) 741-0688 Name
on
Credit
Card Number: Card Billing Address:
Card:
Security Code: City:
Expires: State:
Card Holder Signature:
For more information, call (386) 754-4285 or go to www.fgc.edu/rv-institute.aspx Page 24
Zip:
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