Moscow In Your Pocket Dec'14/Jan'15

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow December 2014 – January 2015

The Bolshoi and beyond

Moscow’s theatre highlights More than 10 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com N°36

Compliments of the season Where to see in the New Year

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

In the News

5

Arrival & Getting Around

6

Public transport

City Basics

8

Language

9

Culture & Events

10 10 11 13 14

Concerts Show for kids Exhibitions Russian icons

Features Moscow Theatre life Winter holidays in Moscow Bogdarnya Pskov

17 20 36 43

Where to eat Russian cuisine Receipt from the chef Sunday brunch

24 25 26 29

Nightlife

31

Dance and drink the night away

What to see The Kremlin Churches and monasteries Ride an icebreacker Museums Artistic places Parks and gardens

Where to stay Interview with concierge

Shopping

37 37 38 39 39 41 42 47 50

Russian winter souvenirs Shopping centres

51 51 53

Business directory

54

Expat & Lifestyle

55 56

The Expat Experience

Maps & Index Metro map City map Street index

59 60 64

St. Petersburg

65

www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

3

Foreword

In the News

The weathermen, who of course are never wrong, say that we can expect a proper Russian winter in the capital this year. Let’s hope so, because manic Moscow transforms into a peaceful winter fairytale as soon as ‘Ded Moroz’ (Father Frost) is in town. Winter is a season that Muscovites both love and hate: there are (even) more traffic jams, the streets and pavements turn brown from the melting snow (known colloquially as ‘kasha’, or porridge) and your nose will almost fall off, or at least feel that way. However, there is nothing to beat a walk through the snow-covered streets and parks with the white stuff crunching under your shoes and Moscow’s golden cupolas shining out against a sharp blue sky. The snow may give you the impression that the city is quieter than usual, but Moscow never sleeps, least of all now. According to many locals winter is the capital’s most dynamic season, with plenty to do for young and old alike. As you will read in our Winter Holiday feature, you can find ice rinks in almost every corner of Moscow, and you can even put your skis on if that’s your thing.

For the culture munchers among you, Moscow’s winter is chock-full of adventure, and in our theatre feature on page 17 you can find out where to see The Nutcracker, the Russian classic without which your winter experience here would not be complete. Moscow’s winter wonderland has a lot to offer for children too, not least in the city’s many parks, where you’ll find the so called ‘gorki’ (hills), purpose-built for repeated testing of the age-old gravity/snow/sledge equation. Aside from the museums and theatres in the centre, we strongly recommend that you explore what winter life looks like outside the city.

Arkhangelskoe park and state museum-estate is a must-visit at the weekend, and if you really want some R&R, take yourself off to Bogdarnya (see page 36) to explore the picturesque countryside on Moscow’s doorstep. Although Russians traditionally celebrate Christmas in the night from January 6th to 7th, there will be no lack of Christmas spirit here around December 24th.

The capital’s hotels have some rather splendid Christmas and New Year offers (see page 23), so there’s no excuse to miss out on your tree, turkey and trimmings.

Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket.

Celebration of Life E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.

Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 36, 01.12.2014, 60 000 copies.

For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story As essential to Christmas as old films, over-indulgence and oh-my-god-where-did-the-year-go, tree ornaments were first popularised in Germany in the mid-19th century. In 2010 a white gold bauble encrusted with over 1,500 diamonds was valued at $130,000

Russia’s Life Line charity (Liniya Zhizni) is one of the most established funds in support of seriously ill children. Every year it hosts a ‘Winter Celebration of Life’ in the run-up to the New Year festivities, offering a fantastic opportunity to combine gift shopping with the chance to make a lasting contribution to saving the lives of children in need of urgent medical treatment. This year’s fair takes place on December 7th at the GUM Skating Rink on Red Square. As well as shopping and some tasty treats, the event also includes an interactive ice show – with visitors invited to take part in the performance. www.life-line.ru

Russia’s first hospitality awardS Russia’s much-maligned hospitality sector gets the chance to blow its own trumpet for a change with the first ever Russian Hospitality Awards in February 2015.

The ceremony will announce the 18 best hotels in the country in various categories. Nomination forms are available on the Russian Hospitality Awards website, and an expert jury will investigate what each hotel has to offer as well as considering reviews from online booking systems. This annual award is intended to bring together leading figures in the hospitality industry, helping to promote excellence across the sector.

The inaugural award ceremony is scheduled for February 19 in Moscow. For more information, check out www.hospitalityawards.ru.

New Hostel in Moskva City

Long Russian holidays The rest of the world may still decide to pop into work for a few days between Christmas and New Year, principally to detox from the former and prepare for the latter, but Russia once again cements its reputation as the land of plenty by generously bestowing a solid week and a half of rest and recuperation on its mildly hungover citizens. This year, the national holidays run from New Year’s Day to January 11th, while the particularly devout might also want to plan a half-day for the 13th to celebrate Old New Year in accordance with the Russian Orthodox Calendar. The 25th and 26th of December remain normal working days, inasmuch as this is ever practically possible. Read more on the celebration of Russian Christmas on page 21.

Finding a cheap sleep in the city just got a bit easier following the opening of the ‘High Level’ hostel at Moskva City.

The cluster of skyscrapers just over the water from Kievsky Vokzal wasn’t really intended as a budget destination, but the 2009 economic crisis changed the fortunes of many investors in the site and suddenly opened it up to unexpected new ideas. High Level, on the 43rd floor of the Imperia Tower, is one of these. Room rates start from 1,100Rbl in a six-berth dorm, while twin rooms start at 2,800Rbl. The price includes breakfast, access to the hostel’s library and an internet connection. Meanwhile staff are multilingual – between them they have English, German, French, Spanish, Chinese, Norwegian and even Hebrew. For more details, check out www.highlevelhostel.com

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

Moscow In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently preparing a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to.

In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 60 000 экз. No36.

01.12.2014

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

St. Tatiana’s Day There are plenty of Tanyas in Russia but none are as special as St. Tatiana, the patron saint of students. St. Tanya’s day or Student’s Day - is celebrated on January 25 and is usually marked by all manner of pranks and revelry, especially so as it typically lands at the end of the winter exam session. All the major university campuses tend to host some kind of special events for students and all across the country young people get up to all kinds of tricks and tomfoolery.

December 2014 – January 2015

5

Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.

Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru.

Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.

If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress.

The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

6

Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes.

Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night.

Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.

Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.

2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru.

Kievsky Station Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.

Kursky Station For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www. kursky-vokzal.ru.

Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www. leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy. railclient.ru.

Rizhsky Station Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.

Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 320Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so if you aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go.

Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.

Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey.

Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow.

New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Buying train tickets Buying train tickets at the station For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don’t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable.

Don’t forget they also require your passport to sell you a ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and reservation belongs to you).

Buying train tickets online Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www. tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.

Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets December 2014 – January 2015

7

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English?

Help!

I need some help I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.

If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate Winters in Russia are notorious – they’ve defeated both the armies of Hitler and Napoleon. In December the temperatures begin to drop, but there can still be wet days, whereas January is usually the coldest month and the city will be blanketed in snow. Time to wrap up warm!

For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.

To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.

You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.

The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.

Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Post

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8

Customs

Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com

pocket dictionary: Sanki In the depths of Russian winter when the blizzards get heavier and the snow drifts deeper you may occasionally see locals out dragging their smallest children along home on sanki (sledges) - quite frankly in that kind of weather a regular detskaya kolyaska (baby stroller) just doesn’t cut it. Sanki of course can also be typically seen in the park, whether being pulled along by a horse - and sometimes even a troika of three horses, or ridden down hills by energetic kids.

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?

Pomogitye!

Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno?

Do you have...?

U vas est…?

I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit?

It's expensive!

Eta dorogo!

Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts!

Bolno!

Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko?

What time is it? Katory chas?

Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky?

No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!

Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль

December 2014 – January 2015

9

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru.

Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru.

Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.

Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

RAY JUST Arena QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.

SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru.

Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.

State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.

Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.

Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.

Moon Theatre QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru.

Moscow English Theatre Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details.

Theatre PRAKtica QB-2, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 55 65, www.praktikatheatre.ru 10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Sovremennik Theatre QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.

Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.

Taganka Theatre QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.

December events Organ RECITALs The Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-and-Paul’s Cathedral puts its church organ to good use by staging regular organ recitals as well as performances of choral and sacral music. “Night in a Cathedral” brings brilliant video installations and breathtaking classical music performances to the cathedral every Friday at 22:00. The concept of video art, which has become so common these days, takes on new artistic meaning with this project. A symbiosis of sounds and visual images, composers and artists, cultural and genre spirituality - this event is a kaleidoscope of bright visual and auditory depictions. Every Saturday at 16:00 they also have special performances for kids, called “Fairy tales with the organ”.QD-3, Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 965 312 53 71, www.nochvsobore.com. Tickets 600 and 1,200Rbl. “Fairy tales with the organ” 600Rbl, for children 300Rbl. Once upon a time in Odessa Russian musicals are a relatively rare breed - Moscow has no equivalent to Broadway, and most of the bigname shows are imports from New York or London.

But the recently opened Theatre of Russian Song near Olimpiisky is having a go at putting that right. Odnazhdi v Odesse (Once upon a time in Odessa) is an engaging tale of love, crime and revolution as the lovable gangsters of the Ukrainian port city get embroiled in the tumult of 1917. It’s not the most sophisticated story, and while many of the gags rely heavily on the local dialect, the song-and-dance routines are colourful in any language and it’s easy enough to follow the outlines of the action without speaking Russian fluently. Well worth a look for a different view of Russian popular entertainment.QC-1, Theatre Russkaya Pesnya, Olympisky pr. 14, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 681 34 10, www.folkteatr.ru/. Every day through December 11. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

07.12 Sunday 18:00 Buranovskye Babushki Eurovision spawns monsters, and the dancing grannies of provincial Russia, who represented the nation in song in 2012, are no exception. Their hit, ‘Party for Everyone’, has seen these perky pensioners touring incessantly around Russia - including a stint at the Sochi Olympics closing ceremony last February - with a feel-good mix of folksy tradition and party electronica. This Kremlin Palace show promises some new numbers, but it’s a fair bet that the familiar old formula will still be to the fore.

QC-3, State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www. buranovskiebabushki.ru. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.

Show for kids 27.12 Saturday 12:00 and 15:00 New Year Dream Moscow’s Museum of Musical Instruments is a treasure trove of fascinating exhibits, and for the holidays it’s opening its doors to children with a special festive fantasia.

The fairy tale show, featuring a guest appearance from Russia’s Santa Claus himself, Ded Moroz, introduces the New Year holidays in music and dance perfect for the young and young-atheart. It all adds up to a New Year Night’s Dream, a musical voyage with a whiff of the magic of the season.QB-1, The Central Museum of Musical Culture, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Tickets 730 - 1,450Rbl.

Buying concert tickets 13.12 Saturday 19:00 Enrique Iglesias The Latino heart-throb returns to Moscow touring his latest album, ‘Sex and Love’, and promising to set the ladies of the city all a-tremble with his dashing good looks. His award-laden career, following in the footsteps of father Julio, has seen his music top the charts all over the world - with three more number-one hits from ‘Sex and Love’ itself. For an evening of Latin rhythms and easy charm, Iglesias is hard to match - and his sole Russian show on this tour looks set to be another big hit.

QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.enriqueiglesias.com.

Tickets 3,500 - 5,500Rbl.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows.

Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

16.12 Tuesday 19:00 Waltzes of the World The Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year recital is one of the great staging posts of the cultural year - and it has spawned imitators all over the world. Moscow is no exception, and in the run-up to the big holiday the Svetlanov Symphony Orchestra, under the baton of renowned conductor Ion Marin, is inviting audiences to whirl around the ballroom to the elegant strains of the waltz. The Strauss family, mainstays of the Viennese tradition, will feature strongly… but the program promises to explore more than just the aristocratic soirees of the Habsburg dynasty. Mariinsky Opera soloist Amelia Gogeshvili also performs.QC-3, State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www.kremlinpalace.org. Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl. December 2014 – January 2015

11

Culture & Events russian rock 05.12 Friday 20:00 Surganova & Orchestra Svetlana Surganova is one of the leading ladies of the Russian rock scene - and after years of touring with her rock orchestra she’s now dabbling with a more classicallyinfluenced sound. Following the launch of her recent album ‘Igra v Klassiki’ (Playing with the Classics), she’s touring with a string quintet and taking more time to showcase her own skills on the violin. The regular band ditches keyboards and electric guitars for acoustic versions of the same to present the new songs as part of a concert-show at Crocus City Hall. The performance is set to combine classical traditions with Surganova’s own unique style… and a liberal sprinkling of her greatest hits.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.surganova.su.

Tickets 900 - 8,000Rbl. 06.12 Saturday 19:00 Akvarium If you only ever listen to one Russian rock group, Akvarium is probably the one to pick. Back in the day, Boris Grebenshchikov was one of the key figures behind the fledgling Leningrad Rock factory, a raw collective that skulked just off the Soviet radar and nurtured talents like the great Kino. Post communism, he’s become a somewhat spiky guru of Russian counter-culture, eschewing the easy path to a TV gig and a cosy life as a cultural commentator in favour of continuing to stalk the margins and lob a metaphorical grenade or two at the system.

The December show at Crocus is already an established annual tradition, and it’s a must-see for fans of one of the most notable acts in Russian rock.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.aquarium.ru. Tickets 1,000 15,000Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket 12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 30.12 Tuesday 19:00 Ballet Gala

Exhibitions

There’s more top-class dance to mark the New Year at Moskovsky Dom Muzyki where Uliana Lopatina takes centre stage. The doyenne of the Bolshoi and Mariinsky stages brings together a galaxy of stars from Russia’s top ballet theatres in a pot-pouri of highlights from the ballet stage.

Tchaikovsky features heavily in an early celebration of his 175th anniversary in 2015, while there’s a more modern accent with Piazolla’s famous Argentinian tango. It all promises to be a glittering end to the year.

QE-5, International House of Music, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. Tickets 2,200 - 15,500Rbl.

January events 10.01 Saturday 19:00 Gregorian Winter As part of their Christmas tour the haunting vocals of Gregorian are back with a special winter program. The versatile group, drawn largely from the cathedral choirs of England, has carved an unlikely niche for itself by adapting a diverse range of pop and rock hits into the style of medieval plainchant. This rare meeting of the sacred and the secular has spawned a raft of hit albums and sell-out tours all over Europe. The winter program promises a hint of seasonal music, from fireside warmers to snowy chills.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.gregorian.de. Tickets 1,500 - 10,000.

24.01 Saturday 20:00 Abba - the show It might be 40 years since Sweden’s greatest pre-Ikea export faced its Waterloo and shot to fame around the world, but the disco stars burn as bright as ever.

A whole generation of fans has grown up long after the group itself stopped performing, nurtured by a collection of karaoke classics and tickets to Mamma Mia. So into the void, the cover bands emerge. This one is rated as the best since Abba themselves, according to the Scandinavian super troupers’ official fan club, and claims an authentic Abba pedigree thanks to the involvement of Ulf Anderson and Mats Ronander, two of the original musicians behind the awesome foursome’s success.

QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.theshow-a-tribute-to-abba. com. Tickets 1,500 - 9,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

through 14.12 Sunday Art from the Russian soil Many artists have been inspired by the timeless beauty of Russia’s landscape, but Vladimir Migachev took his love of his homeland one step further. His large-scale canvases are not merely inspired by the land - they are created using the soil, dust, ash and grit of the scenes that he paints. The result is an epic symphony of modern Russia, with the color, tone and mood of the images directed by the very fundamentals of the scene presented to the viewer. Born in 1959 in a small village, Migachev grew up imbibing the spirit of the Russian countryside. After a formal artistic education he realized his true voice in the 1990s after being commissioned to paint a church; that task led him down a pathway to a new artistic language based on simplicity and restraint that expresses the inescapable melancholy and sacred power of Russia’s wideopen spaces.QB-1, ArtStory, Staropimenovsky per.

14, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story. com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free.

18.12 Thursday - 08.02 Sunday A lifetime in art Moses Feigin, who celebrates his 100th anniversary in 2014, was one of the last survivors of Russia’s avant-garde school and his work formed a living link between the revolutionary innovators of the early 20th century and the contemporary artists of our time. Artstory marks this anniversary year with a thorough retrospective of one of the most fascinating figures in modern Russian art. Feigin’s career began as a student at Moscow’s VKhUTEMAS college in the 1920s - at that time the college was a shining beacon of the avantgarde, with influence all over the world. He fell in love with the ‘Jack of Diamonds’ group, and described himself as the last disciple of that movement, working for years in complete isolation as the political winds shifted and his formalist principles fell out of favour. This anniversary show tells the story of Feigin’s work from his student days through to 2006, when he was listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s oldest working artist at the age of 102.QB1, ArtStory, Staropimenovsky per. 14, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story.com. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian rock 13.12 Saturday 19:30 DDT

On the same night as Enrique Iglesias, Yury Shevchuk’s group DDT is also unveiling its new concert program.

Shevchuk shot to global fame in 2010 when he appeared with U2 in their Moscow gig, but locally he’s long been known for uncompromising alternative rock and a measure of political activism - shortly before that Bono backslapping he led a 3,000-strong rally in downtown Moscow in protest against the destruction of Khimki forest for a new road. Earlier this year DDT launched their latest album, Prozrachny, with a three-hour openair gig; the winter version of the same promises a similar run-down of great songs old and new.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.ddt.ru. Tickets 2,000 - 12,000Rbl. 20.12 Saturday 19:00 Splin

Russian band Splin marks its 20th anniversary this year, and has produced a complex, long-awaited double album to celebrate. ‘Resonance’ gets its first concert airing here at Olympiisky on December 20, and according to the band the two halves of the recording represent two views of the same picture - when placed together they cannot fail to resonate, hence the name of the album. Throughout their two decades on stage Splin have never been afraid of reinvention, and this latest concept promises to be one of their most interesting yet.QС-1, SK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.splean.ru.

Tickets 1,000 - 30,000Rbl. December 2014 – January 2015

13

Culture & Events Icons No Russian church is complete without its icons – but what do these ancient images mean, and why are they there?

The tradition came to Kievan Rus following the conversion to Christianity in 988. Little is known about the artists who painted them – with a few notable exceptions, such as the great Andrei Rublev, these were considered works to glorify God, not celebrate the talent of their makers. At a time when literacy was unusual, strong visual images played a vital role in the ritual. These painted icons, following from Byzantine tradition, were introduced as a focal point for prayer. Even today, believers continue to address prayers to specific icons, choosing an image that matches the problem they wish to share with God. That’s why, for example, icons depicting Prince Pyotr and his peasant bride Fevronia are associated with prayers concerning family life.

Some of Russia’s most venerated icons have legends attached to them: they accompanied great armies into battle and are credited with inspiring victories and defending the Orthodox faith of the Russian people.

The icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir is believed to have spared Moscow from invasion on no less than three occasions. The monastery on Sretenka was built on the site where, in 1395, Prince Vasily of Moscow spent the night praying over the icon after it arrived from the ancient city of Vladimir. The next day the Mongol Armies of Tamerlane retreated from the city.

Learn more about Russian icons in the Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art or in the Tretatyakov Gallery (see page 39 and 41). through 15.01 Thursday World of Dali Surrealist genius Salvador Dali is perhaps the most widely-known figure in 20th century art. His wild flights of fantasy and intensely colourful canvases have long since transcended the confines of the art world and become an instantly recognisable brand of their own. His work was intensely dramatic, and it is that theatrical spirit that has inspired the immersive ‘World of Dali’ show at Sunlight Studio. His best known works are presented in a multi-media display, display on the walls, ceiling and floor in full HD format that draws the viewer deep into Dali’s world of mystery and confusion.QSunlightstudio, Elektrozavodskaya ul. 21, MElektrozavodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 215 51 20, www.mirdali.ru. Open 11:00 01:00. Admission 350 - 550Rbl. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 18.12 Thursday - 01.02 Sunday Riboud’s world Marc Riboud is perhaps one of the greatest photographers of the 20th century, and his image of a peace protestor in Washington DC spiking a soldier’s gun with flowers is one of the most famous pieces of photo-reportage yet produced. This exhibition, however, focuses more on his work in the Far East, where he was one of the first Western visitors to bring images of life in China to the wider world. His subjects are rarely the ‘great men’ of the age; he prefers to capture the stories of ordinary people, sharing their hopes, fears and joys with audiences and bringing to life the back story behind headline-grabbing events. This extensive retrospective takes viewers around the world with Riboud’s vision as their guide.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. through 13.01 Tuesday Cults of personality Moscow’s Central Lenin Museum was devoted to buffing up the myth of the USSR’s great leaders, Lenin and Stalin. But the collapse of the Soviet system left it caught in limbo, its thousands of adoring artefacts out of step with the new era. Now, though, they’re back - albeit in a different kind of display that aims to explore just how the regime sought to transform these men into political gods through a mixture of venerated personal possessions and propaganda items. The display also highlights the fate of those who fell foul of the Soviets: Brodsky’s ‘Inauguration of the Second Congress of the Comintern’ monumental canvas depicts more than 300 leading socialists from Russia and the rest of the world. A new exhibition tells how many of them fell from grace, turning Brodsky’s work from a triumph into an embarrassment.QC-3, State Historical Museum, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www. shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. through 18.01 Sunday Portraits of the past ‘In the stream of time’ brings a series of images from the Lola Garrido Collection to Russia for the first time. The halls of the Pushkin Fine Art Museum are taken over by a host of iconic portraits telling the story of 150 years of photography and celebrity. Among the famous names in the photos are the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietmoscow.inyourpocket.com

rich and George Bernard Shaw; among the great photographers represented we have Alexander Rodchenko, Julia Margaret Cameron, Diane Arbus, Nan Goldin, Alfred Stieglitz, Cindy Sherman, Man Ray, Robert Capa, Horst P. Horst, Philippe Halsman, William Klein, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Dorothea Lange, and Robert Mapplethorpe. Among the highlights are some early 20th century autochromes by Edward Steichen, one of the pioneers of photography in the USA.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. through 08.02 Sunday Costakis George Costakis, a Moscow-born Greek, was one of the great collectors of Soviet art - including many ‘lost’ avant-garde works suppressed during the Stalinist obsession with Socialist Realism. He was ultimately allowed to leave the USSR for Greece, but was obliged to hand over half his collection to the state, where it became part of the Tretyakov’s collection of modern art. This exhibition, marking Costakis’ centenary, includes many avant-garde works by Kandinsky, Malevich, Chagall and others, while also featuring Costakis’ interest in medieval icons and folk art.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, Hall 60-62, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. through 08.03 Sunday Classical French Art at Arkhangelskoe Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is wellknown: time was when fashion dictated even princely underwear should be sent to France to be laundered.

But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries.

QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www. arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

DOMESTIC ART through 01.02 Sunday Unrivalled Wedgwood The legendary Wedgwood pottery firm of England has been a proud supplier of its unique work to the Royal Families of Europe since Josiah Wedgwood set up his business in Stokeon-Trent in the 18th century. Wedgwood’s creative flair and entrepreneurial know-how put his exquisite dining sets on the tables of the aristocratic families of Europe, from Buckingham Palace to the Hermitage.

As part of the UK-Russia year of Culture, the All-Russia Museum of Decorative Art is hosting a large-scale retrospective of some of the company’s greatest works.

Much of the collection comes from the UK, where the Lady Lever Collection has released several items for their first ever international trip.

18.12 Thursday - 08.02 Sunday Babushka’s knick-knacks Stepping into a well-loved Russian home can often feel like a journey through time, falling into a collection of long-treasured ornaments and utensils. This exhibition at the All-Russian Museum of Decorative Arts recreates something of that atmosphere with a collection of items that were household essentials a century ago but are now all but forgotten. The passage of time may have rendered forceps for removing soot from candles and elaborate tools for caring for headwear obsolete, but these curiosities offer an intriguing insight into the homes where our great-grandparents grew up. The exhibition offers a tour of late 19th-century mansion, with each ‘room’ fitted out appropriately.

17.12 Wednesday - 15.02 Sunday Silk and calico – Dialogue of Cultures The exotic and luxurious silks of Uzbekistan, famous for their bright colours, have been hailed as the inspiration for the modernist ideas of Kandinsky, Rothko and others. They were also often paired with floralprint Russian cotton to make colourful robes. Some of the brightest examples from the 17th-20th centuries are collected here - many of them never previously displayed in public - showing how two different tailoring cultures created two complementary styles.

QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.

December 2014 – January 2015

15

Features

Culture & Events Gogol House Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in the very centre of Moscow near Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies, may seem like your average merchant’s mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family.

However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library!

Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum.

Vladimir Maslov At the end of November the famous Russian painter Vladimir Maslov celebrated his 80th birthday, and to mark this occasion Gogol House is putting on an exhibition of his work, with some pieces coming from his own studio, some from the collections of his admirers. A total of 65 paintings will be on display, all but 15 for the very first time. The exhibition is not devoted to any particular area of Maslov’s work, but is rather a collection from his entire artistic career, including landscapes, portraits and still lifes, each one posing the question, “What is the artist trying to say here?”

In fact Maslov’s message is abundantly clear - in every work there is love, and an equally clear understanding and insight, that everything is love. His work is almost Shakespearian in its forensic precision, sagacious narrative and all-encompassing scope, conveying at once his love for, and amazement at the world around him.

16 Moscow In Your Pocket

The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s study was a special room where he could enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his timeless words down on paper.

The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theatre of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theatre and plays based on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when his health began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than the other rooms.

Although special attention is given to the works of Gogol and other material relating to his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone from novices to professionals can browse through music books and even have a go on the electric piano with special headphones to better hear how they sound.

The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors.

QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow TheatrE Life

The Nutcracker

To say that Moscow has a rich and multi-faceted theatre life would be a huge understatement. Theatre in Russia dates all the way back to pagan shows with dramatised performances of fables, tales and proverbs, with the singing and dancing provided by skomorokhi, or traveling minstrels.

Moscow’s first theatre opened its doors in 1672 at the court of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Though lagging behind the opening of London’s first public playhouse by almost 100 years, Moscow quickly made up for lost time, becoming one of the centres of theatrical life by the 19th century with the founding of the Maly (Small) and Bolshoi (Grand) Theatres in 1824 and 1825 respectively.

The turn of the 20th century saw a flourishing of theatrical activity and with it a search for new styles. Perhaps the biggest change on the Moscow theatre landscape at this time was the foundation of the Moscow Art Theatre of Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir NemirovichDanchenko in 1898. In fact, Russian theatre as we know it today can trace its roots to the pioneering work of those genius directors.

Today, the Russian capital has over 150 theatres of all sizes and styles - both classical and non-repertory theatres offer up a broad palette of traditional and avant-garde plays, awesome acting talent and stunning stage design. The “open showcases” that combine the best traditions of repertory theater with experimental settings by youthful creative companies have become a new force in Moscow’s theatre life.

Dating back to 1918-1919, the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the largest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera and ballet performances are well known to Moscow audiences, and attract more and more international visitors.

The theatre takes part in many international projects and is nominated every year for the Golden Mask national theatre award. In 2013 the theatre was even nominated in London for the opera Oscar: the first ever international opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a gorgeous museum showing the history of the theatre, the costumes used in the performances staged there, and the spectacular stage sets.

The iconic Bolshoi Theatre is famed as much for the architectural splendour of the building itself (it was designed by Joseph Bové) as for the truly breathtaking ballet and opera performances that it stages. Although the Bolshoi was officially opened on 20 October 1856, on Tsar Alexander II’s coronation day, it traces its history back to 28 March 1776, when Catherine II granted the prosecutor, Prince Pyotr Urusov, the “privilege” of “maintaining” theatre performances of all kinds, including masquerades, balls and other forms of entertainment.

Today the Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera are among the oldest and most renowned companies of their kind in the world, the former also being the world’s largest ballet company, with over 200 dancers. The theatre underwent extensive reconstruction from July 2005 to October 2011, as a result of which many of the historic building’s lost features were restored to their former glory. At the same time, work on the technical side of things made the Bolshoi one of the world’s most technically advanced theatres. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Christmas and New Year would just not quite be the same without The Nutcracker, and from 29th December to 3rd January (with the exception of New Year’s Day itself ), the Stanislavsky theatre is staging this timeless fairytale, about which the composer Boris Asafiev once famously wrote, “The Nutcracker is a symphony about childhood - or rather, about childhood coming to an end. When you already feel the thrill and hopes of your young adult life, but haven’t yet parted with the habits and fears of childhood… When your dreams draw your thoughts and feelings beyond your conscious self, into a new life that you can only foretaste”.

Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.

December 2014 – January 2015

17

Features The Bolshoi’s little sister is the Maly Theatre, established right next door to the Bolshoi in the early 19th century, although again its roots go further back, to the Moscow University drama company, founded in 1756. Within a few short decades, the Maly became universally recognized in Russia as the leading dramatic theatre of the century. Today it is first and foremost a traditional drama theatre staging classical heritage plays.

The first “international” theatre in Moscow was the theatre “On Nikitsky”, thanks to performances by world-famous actors such as Sarah Bernhardt, Eleonora Duse and Ernst von Possart. Known today as the Mayakovsky Theatre, this is yet another one of Moscow’s must-see theatres. The Mayakovsky remains one of the capital’s local favourites, and its actors are among the most famous across Russia. The Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from such literary masters as Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov.

Making the Art Nouveau building on Taganka Square its home, the Taganka Theatre is as famous for the controversies in its repertoire and leadership as for the incredible talents that have performed there since it opened. Founded in 1964 by Yuri Lyubimov, the theatre rose to popularity with Vladimir Vysotsky and Alla Demidova among the leading players. However, its repertoire was so daring and controversial that it regularly fell foul of the Soviet authorities, who banned many of Lyubimov’s productions. By 1984 the director was stripped of his Soviet citizenship and exiled to the West. Today it remains a firm favourite among the Russian intelligentsia for its efforts to continually push the dramatical and theatrical envelope.

18 Moscow In Your Pocket

Features Founded in the post-Stalin years, at a time when the cult of personality was exiting stage-left, the Sovremennik Theatre (“Contemporary Theatre”) was the first to be founded by a free creative group of like-minded talents who were able to prove themselves as a genuine and worthy artistic collective. Among the founders, all graduates from the Moscow Art Theatre School-Studio, were such respected actors as Oleg Yefremov, Galina Volchek, Igor Kvasha, Liliya Tolmachyova, Yevgeniy Yevstigneyev and Oleg Tabakov. Like any theatre, the Sovremennik has had its ups and downs throughout its relatively long history, but no matter what, its fans have always showed support and enthusiasm for what it does and today it’s as strong as ever.

Paris has its Sun Theatre, Prague its Night Theatre, Japan has its Fog Theatre, and Moscow has its Moon Theatre (Teatr Luny). From its romantic beginnings in a small basement in 1992, the Teatr Luny now occupies a gorgeous mansion in central Moscow and tours regularly, not only Russia, but also countries like the USA, Israel, Germany, Holland, Bulgaria, Mexico among others. The brilliant Sergey Prokhanov founded the theatre and remains its art director to this very day. Most plays are also written by him and stand out for their poetry, unique directing style and refined musical accompaniment.

Prolific modern Russian actors like Chulpan Khamatova, Irina Metlitskaya, Anatoliy Romashin and many others have appeared at least once on the Luny’s stage.

Although positively youthful by local standards, Praktika has come to be known as a charming little place that feels more like a gathering of close friends than a full theater experience, principally thanks to its simple interior and small capacity. The plays staged here are often daring and controversial, so it appeals more to the younger crowd of theatre-goers on an intellectual, emotional and spiritual search. A new generation of playwrights and and directors has been using this space since 2005 to explore topics like personality and power, ethnos and urbanism, war and religion, ethics and immoralism. moscow.inyourpocket.com

A true genius of theatrical art, Konstantin Stanislavsky made an unparalleled contribution to modern European and American realistic acting, which has remained at the core of mainstream western performance training for much of the last century. For this reason alone, the world famous Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is certainly worth a visit. Today the company’s repertoire includes operas (Betrothal in a Monastery, Carmen, Onegin, La Bohème, La Forza del Destino, La Traviata, Madama Butterfly, the Queen of Spades, The Tale of Tsar Saltan, Tosca and many others), ballet (the timeless Russian repertoire) and the brilliant premiers of 2014 - Aida, Manon, Don Giovanni, Il Matrimonio Segreto and Tatiana, which opened in November.

We all know how beautiful and enchanting classical opera can be: there’s Verdi’s masterpiece “La Traviata”, with all the elements we crave to feed our operatic addiction: a beautiful, consumptive, fallen-woman heroine, Parisian party scenes, love’s travails, a troubled father and a deathbed scene. Or Bizet’s “Carmen”, a long but action- and infectious music-filled tale about a gypsy dancer working at a cigarette factory who breaks hearts and meets her doom outside the bullring is the perfect formula for an opera. But if you know the classics inside and out and are looking for a new take on your favourite art form, then the Moscow-based Helikon-Opera company is worth a visit or two. Specializing in unconventional productions, the company was founded by Dmitry Bertman, and gave its first performance, Stravinsky’s Mavra, on April 10, 1990. Nowadays it gives 200 performances a year, primarily in Moscow but also abroad.

If you’re new to Russia, or your knowledge of the Russian language is rusty to say the least, we bring glad tidings! A little over a year ago, Royal Shakespeare Company alumnus Jonathan Bex realized he had little hope of acting in any of the city’s many theatres. Instead of despairing, however, he came up with a creative solution, and started the first ever theatre company offering exclusively English-language productions to Moscow’s audiences. The Moscow English Theatre brings professional actors from the UK to stage contemporary British and American drama in Moscow.

So in this review we’ve managed to cover only 10 of the 150+ theaters currently bringing smiles, tears, joy and laughter to Muscovites and visitors to the capital. Once you cover this list of “essentials”, you will surely find out about all the smaller and more niche places and companies that have helped Moscow earn the title of one of the world’s great theatre capitals. Happy viewing! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

At home with a Fairytale

Folk show on ice for children The Russkaya Pesnya theatre run by Nadezhda Babkina has put together a unique seasonal gift for its audience: Russia’s first ever folk show on ice for children, entitled “At Home with a Fairytale”. The show features the worldfamous figure-skaters and Olympic champions Natalya Bestemyanova and Andrey Bukin, along with artists from Igor Bobrin’s theatre of ice miniatures, the Russian Seasons dance troupe and the Slavyanye and Russkaya Pesnya folk ensembles.

The New Year fairytale that graces the stage has both a compelling plot and a genuine Russian scale, including the most beloved heroes of the country’s tradition: the mischievous Kolobok, the ebullient Skomorokhi minstrels and of course the sly and cunning Wolf, Fox and Baba Yaga. Visitors can also expect the unexpected, with the show also incorporating the Russian folk characters Spring, Summer and Autumn.

The entertaining adventures of Kolobok and co. culminate, naturally, in a big happily-ever-after celebration around the Christmas tree, with the indispensable Ded Moroz and Snegurochka joining in on the fun.

A fairytale inspired by kindness and friendship, with genuine audience participation and surprising adventures – all this lies in store for you at the Russkaya Pesnya theatre from 27th December to 11th January. The show includes everything that an audience could wish for – your favourite fairytale characters, spectacular settings and costumes, and wondrous special effects. The uncompromising professionalism of the show’s creators, in combination with the venue’s state-of-the-art setting, make this wonderful spectacle one of the New Year season’s very best shows for children.

QMusical Folklore Theatre “Russkaya Pesnya”, SadovayaChernogryazskaya ul. 5/9, bldg. 2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at the theatre, online or by phone.

For contact information on theatres check page 10 December 2014 – January 2015

19

Culture & Events

Features Getting your skates on Ice skating has long been a popular winter pastime in Russia, from hockey-playing monks on frozen medieval rivers to elegant aristocrats in 19th-century novels. And modernday Moscow is no different, whether it’s swooping around the city’s parks or scrumming down on a mini hockey rink in the suburbs. Whether you’re looking for a fashionable spot to show off your salchow or you just need a bit of ice to try out your toe-loops, here’s the lowdown on where to flash your blades this winter.

Europe’s biggest Russia loves a good superlative, and while this year’s rink at VDNKh can’t claim to be the world’s biggest (a prize somewhat surprisingly claimed by Mexico City), it does promise to be the biggest in Europe. With a five-acre ice sheet, installed at a cost of US$19 million, it’s set to transform the area around the Friendship of Nations fountain into a winter wonderland when it opens on December 1.

The site aims to cater for all skill levels, and also promises an ‘extreme skating’ section with jumps, a hockey rink and a ‘lovers’ lane’. The ice is expected to be open until March.

WINTER HOLIDAYS IN MOSCOW Ah, Winter in Moscow: pavement-cracking cold, the odd welcome glimpse of a hibernal sun, and that strange unsettling feeling that your nose is no longer entirely attached to the rest of you. Join us on a whirlwind tour of ways to buoy up your spirits as the temperatures drop.

20 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Iconic location GUM’s Red Square ice rink has become such a Moscow institution it’s amazing to think it only opened up for the first time as recently as 2006. Since then, though, it’s become the preferred place for many to slip in a bit of seasonal people-watching on the city’s most prestigious – and usually most expensive – place to skate. However, as the dusk falls and the lights go on around the city’s most famous sight, few experiences are as evocative as twirling around beneath the Kremlin walls under a light dusting of gentle snow. For details see www.gum.ru/katok.

A NIGHT ON THE ICE If you’d rather have a roof over your head as you blunder around, and you are otherwise occupied during the day, there is always the nighttime rink at the Morozovo Ice Palace near the Dubrovka metro station. This purpose-built venue has a much longer season than the outdoor rinks, in fact if you ever find yourself in the area on a hot summer’s evening and decide that the day wouldn’t be complete without a couple of cheeky reverse-axels, this is the place for you. Two rinks are available, one for the effortlessly experienced, the other for the clumsy and terrified. For details and timings, visit www.katokmorozovo.ru.

Russian Christmas For most people in Russia, December 31st is the big winter party, and the 10-day break afterwards is a time for chilling out and shaking off the post-New Year hangover. But January 7th is also the date of Russian Orthodox Christmas, calculated according to the old Gregorian calendar. On January 6th, as most of Europe begins taking down its decorations, Orthodox believers gather for a midnight mass and vigil. The dawn of Christmas day, despite the cold, is greeted with peals of bells and processions before families head home for the great feast. In honour of Christ’s 12 disciples, this is usually a 12 course affair, and it is based on a series of traditional dishes. Many include fish, an old Christian symbol, while seasonal specials include sweet honey cakes and milky kutya, a porridge laced with poppy seeds, wheatberries, honey and nuts. January 7th isn’t the end of the month’s religious activities, though: epiphany on January 19th is marked by plungeing into icy pools, a ritual once connected with Christ’s baptism but increasingly adopted by thrill-seekers of all creeds.

orthodox Epiphany Ice swimming has been a practised in Russia for centuries although there are no clear details of how exactly the tradition began. The most common form of ice swimming, is the religious ice baptism. Every year on the epiphany (January 19th in the Russian Orthodox calendar) Russian Orthodox believers are plunged into a blessed section of frozen water three times in honour of Jesus’ baptism in the river Jordan by John the Baptist.

During the time of communism the ice baptism tradition all but disappeared, but in recent years this way of marking the Kreshchenie (epiphany) has again become popular. If you are hoping to watch the spectacle it is best to either get up very early in the morning or arrive around midnight - as as with many Orthodox religious ceremonies, the Kreshchenie usually takes place during the night. Icy baptisms take place across Moscow although one of the most accessible river plunging areas is at the river port at metro Strogino.

Skate into history: legend has it that modernday skates came to Russia when Peter the Great returned from the Netherlands. By 1838 the writer GM Pauli published his ‘Winter frolics and the art of skating on ice’ in Russian, and soon afterwards in the mid-19th century the rink at Petrovka 26/9 opened. It’s still running today, making it the city’s oldest surviving ice pad. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

21

Features MUZEON

For those who don’t fancy zipping around at high speed across the snow, Muzeon Park is making a pitch to be the city’s winter hot spot. The area has been transformed, along with much of the riverside, and is fully geared up to cater for the hipster overspill from Krasny Oktyabr and Gorky Park. A tubing slope is being installed as a permanent winter feature, while there are a series of other events to mark the season. In the run-up to the New Year the Mir market promises more than 200 stalls offering traditional food and drink from around the world (the five zones include Provence, Russia, America and Scandinavia) as well as some interesting gift ideas. Entrance is free, and the event runs from 24-30 December and with DJs and masterclasses to teach you some new festive tricks.

As midnight approaches on New Year’s Eve, the park offers an alternative to the throng in Red Square. Elektronoch reprises the summer musical programme in the park, with a mixture of live music and DJ sets, all in the frosty New Year air. Wrap up warm, and get to the front of the queue in the food court to make the best of this one.

Many of the bands who featured in the Motherland festival – from acoustic folk to trippy dream-pop – will also be back in the first days of the New Year as part of a holiday programme that also includes a theatrical quest and a snowball fight for children. Russian Orthodox Christmas falls on January 7 and Muzeon will be marking it with a multimedia show incorporating a real helicopter, theatrical performances and the verses of Brodsky, Yesenin and Mandelstam recited by artists from the Chekhov Art Theatre. It sounds like an intriguing combination, and a perfect excuse to drag yourself away from the deadening holiday season TV offerings.QKrymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, www.muzeon.ru.

22 Moscow In Your Pocket

Features Park life

Luxury hotel offers

Many of Moscow’s parks are opening up rinks over the course of the winter, so you won’t have to go far to find somewhere to skate. Besides the rinks on the previous page, Gorky Park is the daddy of them all, and Hermitage Garden is another city centre option. Further out, Sokolniki, Izmailovsky Park, local parks at Taganskaya and Krasnaya Presnya, the estates at Tsaritsyno and Kolomenskoye and the Bauman Gardens offer suburban skating. For free access to natural ice, Chistye Prudy and Patriashie Prudy also welcome skaters when they freeze – lovers of Anna Karenina can re-enact Levin’s encounter with Kitty at the latter venue. Skate hire isn’t usually available here, though.

The falling ruble and the onset of the holiday season mean there are some great bargains to be had at Moscow’s luxury hotels. Room rates have been slashed in some cases, and when discount rates are coupled with the autumn slump in the local currency, this famously expensive destination is starting to look just that little bit more affordable.

For special-offer sleeps, the Radisson Royal, based in the former Ukraina Hotel, one of Moscow’s famous Seven Sisters, is offering a discounted second night for guests staying on New Year’s Eve. The package includes two free tickets for the hotel’s river cruise, free brunch and free use of the spa facilities. The cost is 15,015Rbl a night in a superior room or 25,015 in a business suite – and the second night comes at a 20% discount.

The National, in the very heart of the city at the foot of Tverskaya, has a discount on its normal room rate between 19th December and 11th January, with prices starting at 10,030Rbl depending on room category and availability.

The Hilton on Leningradskoye Shosse also has a promotion during that period – for 5,000Rbl a room, you can enjoy a night in the hotel, free use of the pool and fitness centre and a 20% discount on food and drink in the restaurant and lobby bar.

The New Year is also a great time for parties: the National offers a glittering New Year’s Eve ball with a traditional festive Russian menu, live music and a terrific view of the Red Square fireworks at midnight. Tickets for the big event are 10,000 or 15,000Rbl, depending on which of the hotel’s reception halls you choose.

Finding a Christmas dinner can sometimes be a challenge for foreigners, with Russia preferring to hold off its big party until New Year. But help is at hand at the Sheraton Sheremetyevo, where a special Christmas menu is on offer from 22-28 December. The chef’s signature dish, scallops on a saffron puree, is part of a four course menu that also offers a choice of roast duck or grilled salmon and a traditional French-style Yule Log. The cost is 2,500Rbl per person.

Two of the Marriot Hotels also offer festive brunches in the weekends leading up to the New Year. The first, on 20-21 December, is at the Royal Aurora where chef Carl Damegger offers a Christmas carvery, complete with mulled wine. Younger guests have a special entertainment programme, including a final chance to send off a wishlist to Santa Claus.

On 28 December the action moves to the Marriott Grand, where Emmanuel Garde’s luxury menu is accompanied by a programme of live music and festive entertainment.

Precise times are still to be confirmed but both hotels are likely to offer brunches from 12:30 to 17:00. The Marriott chain also offers holiday season discounts on some rooms – check out the website for more details.

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com.

Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru.

Skating hints Most of the places listed here offer skate hire, sometimes free of charge (deposit required). For the busier sites, especially Red Square and Gorky Park, it’s worth booking in advance online. It’s also worth remembering that the queues to return skates and recover deposits at the end of a session can be long – especially for evening slots at Gorky Park.

All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh) QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, www.artkatok.ru Gorky Park QB-5, Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, www.bigkatok.ru Hermitage Garden QC-1, Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, www.superkatok.ru Petrovka QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 26/9, MTrybnaya Red Square QC-3, Krasmaya Pl. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, www.gum.ru/katok Ski special Aside from skating there’s plenty of other sporting activity on offer in Moscow once the snow comes. Sokolniki is the place to go for skiing, more than 100km of cross-country routes including a 40km circuit combining 10 of the 66 separate paths on offer throughout this huge park to the north-east of the city. The ski runs are illuminated, so it’s possible to ski late into the night here. For more information, see www.park.sokolniki.com.

For downhill skiing choices are rather limited, especially if you don’t fancy leaving the city, but there are modest slopes at the Kant centre near Nagornaya metro (www.kant.ru). moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr.

Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.

Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.

Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B/5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.com.

CHRISTMAS AT St. Andrew’s In August, St. Andrew’s Anglican Chaplaincy entered a new era with the arrival of Rev. Clive Fairclough. One of Rev’d Fairclough’s goals is to make the chaplaincy more visible and active in the community, and in just a few short months many steps have been taken towards this goal. Shortly after arriving, Fr. Clive and his wife Jo began a new tradition – a bring-and-share open house at the parsonage on the last Friday of the month for members of the parish as well as those in wider community who might be interested in the work of the church.

December is a great month to make a visit to St. Andrew’s. The chaplaincy will host its annual Christmas bazaar from 13:00-16:00 on Dec. 6. Traditional English and American holiday items and handmade Russian crafts will be on sale, and visitors can also take part in master classes and performances. Homemade pies, soups and treats will also be available. On Dec. 14, the children of St. Andrews and the Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy will put on a joint Christmas pageant at 15:00, and the chaplaincy will hold a traditional service of lessons and carols at 18:30. Services will be held at 16:00 and 11:15 on Christmas Eve and at 08:30 and 11:00 on Christmas Day. The chaplain will also host an open house at 19:00 on Boxing Day. “We want to tell the community that there is a lot going on at St. Andrews and everyone is welcome,” said Rev’d Fairclough.

Visit www.moscowanglican.org or www.facebook. com/moscowanglican to keep up with the latest events going on at St. Andrews.

December 2014 – January 2015

23

Where to eat

Where to eat Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.

Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.

Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Chekhov Set right next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here is inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear contemporary costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation.QKamergersky per.

3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafechekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and just as popular with local business men as passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but at one time it was the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food.

The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin. ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.

Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

24 Moscow In Your Pocket

of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.

16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke. ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAESW Odessa Mama Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.

PTAVEGSW

Asian and Indian Darbars at Starosadsky Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which at one time could only be found in the hotel Sputnik. Since they took over the famous and popular Maharaja restaurant, you can now find them in the centre too. The chef and staff are the same as in the Maharaja and continue their tradition of renowned Indian hospitality, welcoming you with a complimentary crispy papadum starter. Follow this with a wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes all prepared according to traditional methods, and to whatever level of spiciness takes your fancy. Also at Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, (metro Leninsky pr.) .QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 963 757 02 90, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

PAVGS Tan Sometimes it can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, and not just in Moscow, but anywhere. Tan, however, just off Triumphalnaya Square, bucks this trend.

The menu boasts a huge choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tibet Himalaya The Tibet Himalayan is no secret to the expat community as the long-standing venue for the Tuesday night “Curry Club.” What’s more, it offers a Buddha bellyfilling, valuefor-money business lunch of which the Dalai Lama himself would approve! Alhough far from the Himalayan mountains, this colourful basement restaurant brings a note of tranquillity to the bustling metropolis. A different menu each weekday, with soup, bread, a choice of starter and main course (often yak meat), rice, dessert, and a drink to wash it down. Vegetarian and fish options are available, too.

A rare opportunity to try Kalmyk specialities a la carte. Also at pr. Mira 79 (metro Rizhskaya).QC-2, Shopping centre Nikolskaya Plaza (1st floor), ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 21, www.tibethimalaya.ru.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW ZeNQ Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls and sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and rice options to choose from.

The business lunch here is great value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in to their meals.QC-2, Shopping centre Nikolskaya Plaza (1st floor), Nikolskaya ul. 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 641 32 02. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €.

PAVGSW

Beer Restaurants Kozlovica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.

QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW Pilsner Paveletskaya Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well.

Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€.

PAGSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian cuisine Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything.

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).

Soups and salads Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch.

Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka.

Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishes Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands.

Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

December 2014 – January 2015

25

Where to eat

Where to eat

Receipt from the chef Robert Masopust, brand chef of the “Pilsner. Czech Beer Pub” chain, would like to wish all our readers a very happy holiday season and to share with you his favorite Christmas carp recipe.

Ingredients: Carp - 2 kg Almond - 10 Lemon - 1 Walnut - 5 Carrots - 150 g Thyme Celery - 100 g Dark beer - 1 liter Spring onion - 30 g Pryanik - 1 Sugar - 20 g Red wine - 100 ml Prunes - 12 Lingonberry jam - 20 g Raisins - 40 g Preparation: A fillet of carp is perfect for this dish. Salt it, marinate it in lemon juice and put into the fridge for approximately 30 minutes while you prepare the sauce. Cut the carrot and the celery stem very thinly, and separate the vegetables into 2 parts. One part is sautéed in vegetable oil while adding spring onion to it. Black pepper and allspice, ginger, cloves and a bay leaf are perfect if you want to spice up the dish a little. You will also need sugar and several lemon pieces. Afterwards, add the raisins and the prunes, peeled almonds, walnuts and fresh thyme. On a separate frying pan add the remaining carrot, celery and prunes, as well as the almonds, raisins and walnuts. Pour the dark beer into the second frying pan, add salt and boil for about 15 minutes. Cut the carp fillet into proportional pieces and put them on the second frying pan with the vegetables. Shred the pryanik into the marinade. Boil it a little and strain through a sieve into the frying pan with the carp. Add some fresh thyme and put it into the oven for 20 minutes at 150 degrees. Place the frying pan with the ready fish onto the stove, pour in the red wine, add the lingonberry jam and serve immediately.

Cafes and Bakeries Bulka Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - the fruit pies are incredibly rich, and neither the tartly sweet creations nor the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches can be faulted.

In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 95 57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €. PASW 26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Coffee Pyu One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t even mind if you did.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www. coffee-piu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW

Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGSW

Jeffrey’s Coffee In Jeffrey’s you pay for the time you spend at this American coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps even get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole day enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks.QD2, Ul. Maroseyka 15, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www.jeffreyscoffee.ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. PAGW

Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on the 17th of the 7th month - the day when Noah’s ark is said to have ran aground.

The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW

Madame Boulanger This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy, from classic French éclairs and handmade chocolates to macaroons and, of course, the ubiquitous croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery as you admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard. Musicians and show-offs alike are welcome to serenade the other guests on the piano.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madameboulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PAGS

Caucasian Gayane’s An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food.

Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Saperavi Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings. No tacky water features here, thank you very much: instead it’s bright colours, stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does feature good, solid fare like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They also do an great job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer.QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVGSW

European Brix If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices.

With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the catch? We still haven’t found one!QB-2, Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAW Coin Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where there are already multiple screens for sports viewing.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www. coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all dishes?

Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that while presenting it all in a beautiful and funny way, the food is just plain good, with a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location.

QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEGSW Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine.

Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg.

1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW December 2014 – January 2015

27

Where to eat Scandinavia An icon of Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing service with a smile for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, though: their bar menu also features a hefty and very popular burger. The calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.

QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

PTAGSW Tapa de Comida Viva Espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and feels Spanish inside and out, complete with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows.QC-1, Trubnaya ul.

20/2, bldg. 3, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www. tapasbar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€€. PAESW Ugolek Ugolek might sit on a row of restaurants on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, but it is absolutely unique, and well worth taking the time to check out. In fact, given how popular it has become, it is a good idea to book ahead. Dishes are cooked on an open charcoal oven, giving the food a delicious smokey and home made flavour. The interior decor follows the same theme, with low sofas, mismatching wooden tables and log fires creating a simple, cosy ambience.QC-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 12, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 02 11. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTSW

Where to eat International Art Clumba Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the wellsourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural features.QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.art-clumba.ru/. Open 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEGSW Delicatessen Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20, veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW Deti Raika It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW Funny Cabany The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to succulent tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www. funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet 28 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Izia Grill What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking.

Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions, but usually have snack-sized price tags attached.QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. €. PAEGSW Jerome & Patricе Those of you who have had the pleasure to enjoy dinning at one of the Ginza Project’s numerous restaurants will be pleased to discover yet another restaurant to treat your taste buds. Jerome&Patrice takes a new look at authentic French provincial cooking. The head chefs have taken care to preserve French traditions while taking the best out of modern trends in international cuisine. The establishment has magnificent views onto the square and comfortable seating and lovely lighting.QD-3, Slavyanskaya pl. 2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 784 69 69, www.ginzaproject.ru/MOSCOW/Restaurants/jeromepartice. 12:00 - 24:00. Fri and Sat 12:00 till last guest. €€€. PAGW Kon-Tiki The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill.

Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties.QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAEGSW Laffa Laffa Laffa Laffa is the latest addition to Moscow’s burgeoning gourmet street food scene. Two branches opened almost simultaneously in October and have quickly established a reputation for elevating the humble ‘shaurma’ wrap into a culinary treat. The Middle-east themed cafes pride themselves on preparing fresh food fast - bread is cooked to order and tender meat and fresh vegetables are always to hand.

As Moscow steadily falls in love with falafel, this is definitely a spot worth checking out - and for vegetarians struggling to find reliable options in a notoriously carnivorous city, this is definitely a spot worth checking out for its impressive array of tasty meat-free dips as well as its veggie falafel dishes.

QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 975 55 45. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Sunday Brunch AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel Looking for a brunch place in Moscow? Look no further! Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on Olimpiyskiy Prospekt is continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the winter. Every Sunday guests can lounge around and socialize with family and friends while enjoying a late breakfast. The menu changes every week so you’ll never get bored of the selection of traditional Russian dishes at the generous buffet table, which consists of cold starters and salads, a caviar station with blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses, meat and fish dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit.

The price of the buffet also includes alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72 hours in advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com.

Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till 6 years free of charge and children from 6 till 12 years receive 50% discount.

Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City Ceilings covered with sail cloth that looks like it’s moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with paintings of maritime settings - you’ll certainly feel all at sea once you step into the newly opened Porto Maltese restaurant at the Vegas Crocus City shopping mall. This is a perfect place to wind down after a long day of shopping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a bed of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs.QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, 4th floor, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www. portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. €€. TNGW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.

Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW December 2014 – January 2015

29

Where to eat Townhouse A welcoming interior, unpretentious European chic and a menu borrowing something from the cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed!

The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area.QD5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

Italian Flotilla Radisson restaurant One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies its route along the Moskva, taking in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up, and with winter it’s time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, www.radisson-cruise.ru. €€€. PAEGW Mamma Giovanna This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW Osteria della Piazza Bianca A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen - where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about the wine.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. PAVGW

To read about even more restaurants in Moscow and find out about all the latest gigs check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com 30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Nightlife Osteria Uno With a kitchen staffed by three Italian expats who have been cooking for years in some of Moscow’s fanciest restaurants, you know you are not going to go far wrong. Osteria’s look is a wholly Western brand of toned down informal chic - concrete walls with the menus scrawled across them, a huge bustling bar and open kitchen dominating the centre of the glass walled room, and surprisingly comfortable deckchair style chairs, are all seriously on trend. Besides the buzzing atmosphere though, the real attraction is the great food. Imaginative daily specials from the chef, fantastic fresh pizzas, imaginative twists on Italian classics and oh-so traditional homemade pasta make returning again irresistible.

QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 2, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 507 73 74, www.osteriauno.ru. 09:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat 10:00 till last guest. €€€. PAGW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag.

QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW

Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus.

The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom. ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

The original city that doesn’t sleep, Moscow has everything going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you’re after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee small hours, you won’t be disappointed.

live music CLUBS B2 Club One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is.

Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices.

As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul.

8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www. b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG DeFAQto This third venue in the FAQ chain of alternative bars is a bit of a jumble of styles and ideas. Like a strange cross between an English pub and an American bar, with a stage that would suit stand-up comedy well, you get the feeling that something is about to happen here, although it never actually does. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth seating in particular is nice for smaller groups. Apparently people dance here sometimes too, although we still haven’t figured out how and where that’s possible.QD-2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto. ru. Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs.

PAEGW Duma This place is not merely literally underground, it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley.

Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo.

The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls.

In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – Two beers please! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jaoda.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00.

PAEW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never seems to get old or lose its appeal. Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW December 2014 – January 2015

31

Nightlife Masterskaya Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio.

There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later on, while during the day dreadlocked student types sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground floor you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane which serves excellent international food early in the evenings and incredibly loud house music later on.QС-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www. mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters for Moscow’s hipster contingent, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www. barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW

Nightlife Kvartira 44 The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal. Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW Mayak Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Frequented by journalists, actors and writers, it’s the type of place where ‘just a quiet’ drink can go on for hours and include numerous vodka shots and the occasional sing-along. Tables are filled almost every night of the week lending it an energetic crowded coffee house buzz, but luckily the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but otherwise there’s no background music only lively chatter.QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www. clubmayak.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.

Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results.

The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru.

Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW

32 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tiki-Bar In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PGW

Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.

Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub. ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overload.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 - 07:00. PAW Coyote Ugly Part of the international chain that inspired the film of the same name, this is a bar where the girls rule the roost and you’d better beware, these are no mere go-go dancers, they have attitude. Yes they can squeeze a lemon for your tequila from their cleavage, but they also have plenty of personality. Girls are allowed to dance on the huge American style bar, security make sure the men keep their hands in their pockets and the soundtrack is danceable and fun rock and pop. Happy hours bring in a mixed crowd and if it’s too loud upstairs there’s a friendly little bar hidden down in the basement.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 6/3, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97, www.coyoteugly.ru. Open 19:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. PA www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

33

Nightlife It’s hard to imagine now that in its first, 12th century incarnation, Moscow’s Kremlin was a modest wooden stockade that would have taken no more than a couple of minutes to walk around. Let’s take a closer look at the citadel we see today.

VodoVzvodnaya Tower The “water-lifting” tower, so named because at one point it supplied water for the rest of the complex, overlooks the Moskva river from the south-western corner of the Kremlin. First built at the end of the 15th century, the tower we see today dates to 1819, when restoration on it was completed after it had been destroyed by Napoleon’s retreating army.

34 Moscow In Your Pocket

Grand Kremlin Palace Constructed in the middle of the 19th century, at one time the Palace served as the official residence for the Imperial family during their visits to Moscow. Its architect was Konstantin Thon, who also designed the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.

It is said that one of the principal reasons for the palace’s commissioning was so that the Kremlin as a whole would not be outdone by the new cathedral just along the river. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Blagoveshchensky Cathedral One of Moscow’s oldest surviving churches, Blagoveshchensky was built towards the end of the 15th century by masters from Pskov, at a time when the construction at the Kremlin was entrusted mainly to Italian architects. It was from its roof that in March 1584 Ivan the Terrible saw the cross-shaped comet which he was convinced foretold his demise – a few days later he suffered a massive stroke while playing chess. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tainitskaya Tower The oldest of the Kremlin’s 20 towers, the name derives from the Russian word taina, or “secret”, a reference to the concealed well and escape tunnel to the river that were built into it for use in the event of a siege. How wise it was to actually name the tower after this feature is one of the great unanswered questions of Russian mediaeval history.

December 2014 – January 2015

35

Features

Bogdarnya Autumn may be over, but that doesn’t mean that it’s time to bid farewell to fun, wholesome and revitalizing outdoor activities. If you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails regardless of the season, then maybe it’s time to consider a little trip about 120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.

This 400-hectare riverside property, founded by Englishman John Kopiski and his Russian wife Nina, is located in picturesque countryside and forest. The Kopiskis are devout Orthodox Christians, with a mission to promote healthy living. Here, anyone and everyone can experience life on a real working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here you can learn all about meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage yourelf in myriad other forms of educational “agritainment”. Above all, everyone who visits Bogdarnya is made to feel welcome in the true traditions of Russian hospitality.

Eating, drinking and relaxing are not the only things guests can do during their stay at Bogdarnya. Plenty of activities to suit just about anyone’s taste can be organized no matter what time of year you plan your visit. As winter approaches and the temperature starts to drop, some recreational activities can actually keep 36 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see

you warm while you’re having fun! With the first snows are forecast soon, now is the perfect time to enjoy some cross-country skiing, skate on the frozen lake or ride the ice-slide!

Horseback rides through the forest are a wonderful way to see nature and be at one with yourself and your thoughts. If you’ve never ridden a horse but would like to learn, why not take a lesson? Don’t feel like being at the reins but still fancy a romantic ride through nature?

No problem! The experienced and friendly staff at Bogdarnya are always delighted to take guests around in horse-drawn carriages or sleds. When the horses get tired, Bogdarnya also has a wide selection of quads and jeeps for adrenaline-filled forest exploration, with the chance to camp overnight somewhere tranquil and far removed from civilization.

Thrill-seeking aside, the complex also hosts children’s camps, career guidance programmes for school students, plus corporate events and banquets for up to 150 people, training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment samovar, mulled wine and shashlik being at the heart of many such festivities. A 19-room on-site hotel is available for those who just don’t want to leave (and rightly so!). All rooms have a private WC and shower.

A visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat that benefits both body and soul.

QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B (121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www. bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi to Bogdarnya.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest.

Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate.

A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin.

Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.

Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.

Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.

Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes.

The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.

December 2014 – January 2015

37

What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad. Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.

QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad.

Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. 38 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl. Donskoy Monastery The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter.

Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. QDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www. donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524.

It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia.

There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art Housed in the grounds of Andronikov Monastery, this museum is dedicated to the art of the Russian icon throughout the ages. Although none of the famed Rublyev’s work is here, the icons in the collection are still beautiful. Preservation is paramount for icons and many are still shining brightly despite their age. Spread out over three floors of the restored St. Michael’s chapel, a ghostly feeling still inhabits the place.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00 Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission 350Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism.QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

ride an icebreacker

Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow Equipped with ice-breaking technology, these huge fancy yachts are the only river cruisers running all year around. The round trip journey takes two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin.

There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a restaurant with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night. Note that you can also join and depart the cruise from the pier in Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury), although it is advisable to check the departure times first.

QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radissoncruise.ru. From pier hotel Ukraina boats leave: Mon - Wed 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, Thu - Fri 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00, Sat - Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs). From pier Gorky Park boats leave: Mon - Fri 16:00, 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs) and Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00 (2,5hrs). It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Tickets for 2,5 hrs boat trips 900Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 650Rbl and children till 5 years old free of charge. Tickets for 1,5 hrs boat trips (only from pier Gorky Park) 650 Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 450Rbl, children till 5 years old free of charge. First class 2,000Rbl. PAUKW Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center This large and engaging museum dedicated to the complex history of Russian Jewry, is thoroughly modern in approach, favouring personal testimony, archival video footage and interactive displays. The role of Russian Jewry in public life in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries is particularly well presented as is the fate of Soviet Jews and the role of Jewish soldiers during World War II. Those expecting to find just a stark representation of pogroms, holocaust, hardships and suffering will be pleasantly surprised to find Russian Jewish history presented as something much more complex, filled with both struggles and achievements.QUl. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1А, MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, www.jewish-museum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 400Rbl. December 2014 – January 2015

39

What to see Moscow Multimedia Art Museum This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. TAW State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. N State Historical Museum This museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. he elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists..QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U 40 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neoclassical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy stroll. GETTING THERE: From metro Tushinskaya, Rizhskaya, Dmitrovskaya.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00.

Museum open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays10:00 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for park and museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions you need to pay seperately. UNK

Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per.

10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

The Central Museum of Musical Culture

artistic places The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos? We recommend going for a guided tour as they’re equipped with recordings from many of the strange inhabitants of the exhibition, which makes the experience a lot richer. As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music, and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website.

QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. TNKW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where Bulgakov, the author of Master and Margarita lived and wrote his famous novel. Today it is an artist’s gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated to the house’s most famous inhabitant. The resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 06 19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free.

PALW

Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg but in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower middle class upbringing and are carefully tended to by the Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. If you have the time they can philosophise about the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the 1930s as well as the desk (filled with his notes), where he wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov.QUl. Dostoevskogo 2, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www. goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 14:00 21:00. Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 70 - 100Rbl. N Gorky Memorial Museum Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru.

Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time.

Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

41

Pskov

What to see Lev Tolstoy Museum Dedicated to the life of the man behind War and Peace and Anna Karenina, this is a reverential place packed with personal and literary material. A complex and conflicted individual, the exhibits trace his life from childhood to death and the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N

Parks and Gardens All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh) This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements.

Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 21:00.

Museums 11:00 - 19:00. Mon closed. Entrance park free.

Museums 0 - 300Rbl.

42 Moscow In Your Pocket

Tsaritsyno Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins.

Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www. tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00.

Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK

Muzeon Park of Arts This fascinating park is the final resting place for the many Soviet statues evicted from Russia’s parks and squares following the collapse of Communism. Founded in 1992, the park has been accumulating monuments for over 20 years, and today its collection comprises more than 700 sculptures, including some notable pieces by Vera Mukhina, Ivan Shadr, Yevgeny Vuchetich, Yevgeny Chubarov and a number of other contemporary sculptors. Highlights include the huge steel sculpture of the Soviet world, innumerable giant pedestal-less Lenins, monuments to the Red Army, and a de-nosed Stalin. In 2013 the Krymskaya embankment became a pedestrian zone and part of the Muzeon park. Comfortable benches, a fountain, bicycle-hire and a cafe have transformed this place into a year-round hangout for young and old.QB5, Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 33 96, www.muzeon.ru. Park open 08:00 - 22:00. Embankment open 24hrs. Admission free. Guided tours (250 - 500Rbl) should be booked in advance (+7) 499 238 33 96. moscow.inyourpocket.com

One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least well known cities: welcome to Pskov!

Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border, Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres.

The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year 903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church.

In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial value, Pskov was also one of the countries’ most important fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone walls, unique in contemporary Europe.

Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky (c. 1120 – 1263).

More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to this historical moment can still be found there today.

Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s extraordinary history.

Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to explore.

Where to stay No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation, whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.

Hotel Rizhskaya QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya. ru. 265 rooms.

Old Estate Hotel & Spa QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45, www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.

Oktyabrskaya Hotel QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.

Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.

Hotel 903 QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www. pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.

Hotel Golden Embankment QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78 77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.

December 2014 – January 2015

43

Pskov New Year in Pskov When the end of the year peeks around the corner, Pskov starts preparing to enter the New Year with a bang.

Near the Detskii Park in the centre of the city you will find a huge Christmas tree, which shines bright when the sun goes down. The park itself is decorated with bright Christmas lights in the form of carriages and waves, and a tree made completely of lights stands in the middle. Government budget permitting, celebrations culminate in a spectacular firework display.

As Christmas approaches, you can participate in activities such as skiing, swimming in the river (only for the brave and/or foolhardy) and myriad other fun activities organized at a country hotel near Pskov. If you want to join in on the fun, we recommend you find a guide to help you register, as in all likelihood nobody will speak English. If you do not fancy frolicking around in the snow, you can also just have your photo taken with a red-nosed Ded Moroz near the Christmas trees.

Getting There Train number 10 to Pskov departs daily from Moscow at 16:55 from Leningradsky Vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya).

Buses depart on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 20:00 from Tushinskaya bus station (metro Tushinskaya). A bus ticket to Pskov costs around 1000Rbl. With the exception of Tuesdays and Sundays, you can fly from Moscow to Pskov from Domodedovo Airport.

Various airlines fly between the two cities and an average ticket costs between 4000-6000Rbl.

Getting around Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so you should not have any trouble finding your way around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive, and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station can be found at the same place in the south-eastern part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32, www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00.

44 Moscow In Your Pocket

Pskov

What to see

outside PSKOV

Pskov city walls The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which give a clear image of just how strong this city once was.

It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed with caution when walking directly beside a wall when hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!

Old Izborsk When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides (either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pskov State Museum The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings, now united under one name. The central building of the museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and its region. Directly attached to the main building are the famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman who once resided here. In these chambers you will find various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection.

Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www. museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Monuments The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts.

Some of the most interesting monuments can be found near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most famous poet. Another monument of significance is the monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill (Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story!

Parks Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk, or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park (Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city, and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any troubles. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Pechory This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at any point during its existence. The monastery currently consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pushkin Hills Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe 19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.

Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.

Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to find a guide who can help you get there and show you the way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful the hills are, you do not want to get lost. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Churches It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than 40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those interested in old Russian architecture and religion.

Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves you having to ask at every church you enter.

Trinity Cathedral Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or wooden spiked maces. To each his own!

Mirozhsky Monastery As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll through its garden is already a good enough reason to do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy a moment of rest, and the site has been included on the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.

QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www. mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.

December 2014 – January 2015

45

Pskov

Where to stay Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

Where to eat You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants and cafes in Pskov especially for you!

Pozharka Tavern The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous, allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire, but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.

QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €.

Dvor Podznoeva Halls The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant, waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€.

Double Coffee With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.

From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel. (+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 – 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €.

46 Moscow In Your Pocket

5 stars

Nightlife Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a city with many students, who need to unwind after a long week of studying hard. What better way to do that than to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs, each with its own face and style. If you like to show your moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places where you can boogey down all night long. When local Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places where you can party as much as you like.

Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl).

Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl).

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).

Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).

Hotel Savoy Moscow QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms (Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).

Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).

Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).

Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.

231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).

Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 8,400Rbl).

Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.

497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at 19,000Rbl).

TIR Club Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that truly has its own identity. The underground style of the bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music events, which are held near the stage in the back of the club. During events you will have to pay admission to enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54, www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 16:00 until last guest. €.

Super Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www. superpskov.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

47

Where to stay

Where to stay

Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow. com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).

Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl).

Sheraton Palace QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).

The Ritz-Carlton QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).

The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikol’skaya QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices start at 11,000Rbl).

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Europe check out our website www.inyourpocket.com

4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl).

AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500 Room prices start ).

Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).

Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).

Holiday Inn Suschevsky QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl).

Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms (Room prices start at 5,890Rbl).

Advertising

WINTER HAPPENINGS

MOSCOW MARRIOTT ROYAL AURORA 11 PETROVKA ST. +7 (495) 937 10 00

MOSCOW MARRIOTT GRAND 26/1 TVERSKAYA ST. +7 (495) 937 00 00

Excellent cuisine, impeccable service and friendly atmosphere are waiting for your in Moscow Marriott Hotels. Enjoy our Sunday brunches and other restaurant special offers.

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl).

Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl).

Ibis Paveletskaya QUl. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl).

Warsaw QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl).

Zolotoy Kolos QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617 63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl).

Hostels Godzillas QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room prices start at 864Rbl). iVan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays).

Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!

MOSCOW MARRIOTT TVERSKAYA 34 1ST TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA ST. +7 (495) 258 30 00

www.marriott.com

48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.

162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl).

Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl).

Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

49

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Andrey Fedorenko, concierge at the Hotel Baltschug Kempinski.

Please tell us something about yourself. I’ll start with the basics. My name is Andrey Fedorenko and I was born in the capital of our beautiful country in 1979. I am a married man and my wife and I have children.

I got my degree from the prestigious Plekhanv University in hospitality and went to get further qualifications at the Dutch School of Hospitality and topped all this off with a diploma from the American Hotel and Lodging Association. My hobbies include motorcycles and bike riding, as well as active relaxation in the nature. As far as my work experience goes, I started off at the Marriot Aurora in 1998 and then in 2000 I changed to Balchug and am the deputy head of the concierge services.

Can you tell us something about Hotel Baltschug Kempinski? What makes it special? What do you like best about this hotel? As I already mentioned I’ve been working here since 2000 and yet every time I set foot in this hotel it’s as if it’s the first time because things constantly keep changing. The management has changed, colleagues have come and gone, the interior has been revamped and now we’re also undergoing a renovation process. One thing, though, hasn’t left my hotel. And that’s the special spirit and atmosphere of European hospitality, which keeps attracting our loyal customers as well as new guests. I’m a Muscovite through and through but the view from our 8th floor banquet hall captivates me each time and brings joy to my eyes. I proudly answer that my hotel is right opposite the Kremlin whenever someone asks me about its location.

Shopping Moscow has changed a lot over the last years, what do you like best about this? Moscow is the capital of Russia, it’s a city that never sleeps and is always on the move, always developing – it’s changed so drastically in the past few years! During the winter holiday months it’s even more so active, as everyone is preparing for New Year and Christmas. There are so many New Year markets in the center as well as the outskirts. The scent of pine trees and mulled wine is in the air, all kinds of traditional and folklore celebrations take place every weekend all the way up until the start of Maslennitsa.

This year we can also call Moscow the pedestrian capital because the amount of pedestrian-only zones has grown exponentially. In addition to the already popular walking zones like Old Arbat or Stoleshnikov Pereulok Muscovites can go for a carefree stroll down Kuznetsky Most, Nikolskaya and Rozhdestvenka Streets. And Pyatniskaya Street – just steps away from Balchug – also got a nice makeover!

What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend to our readers? In a way I’m quite conservative and it’s hard for me to change my habits so I always recommend my friend tried and tasted places. For example, on a winter’s night I like to go to Oblomov restaurant and reserve a table by the big fireplace on the first floor with a nice comfortable sofa in advance. After a trip to Sanduny I always pop by Uzbekistan restaurant for the best chebureki and plov in town. I also love attending open rehearsals in the Chaikovksy concert hall and then have a nice cup of coffee in their café.

December is full of holiday spirit so guests often ask about gift ideas for their loved ones aside from the traditional matreshkas, caviar and strong spirits. So I usually recommend scarves from Pavlovsky Posad, especially since there’s a specialized shop just steps away from the hotel.

What can you tell us about your favorite places in Moscow? There’s something for everyone any time of year, especially winter now that it’s right around the corner. During my time at my job I have never heard a foreign guest being disappointed with the city or the people. Even our regulars who have been visiting Moscow for the past 20 years still manage to discover something new each time. In the wintertime my city is beautiful and if I have free time I like to spend it actively outdoors. Some of my favorite places are the ice skating rinks in Sokolniki or Gorky Park. I love cross country skiing in Izmailovsky Park. After a nice active outdoor session a cup of hot tea in the Izmailovsky Kremlin and a walk through the world famous Vernissage really hits the spot. To warm up Varshavskie Bani and Sanduny are great places to visit for a real Russian banya.

50 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Winter Souvenirs For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country, whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following: Platok A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a coat.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.

Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops all over the city.

Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pickled Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets.

Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price.

December 2014 – January 2015

51

Shopping shop in the museum Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store. artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A

Shopping Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL

Lotte Plaza QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

LKW Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Novinsky QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797 62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW

Markets

Bookshops

Danilovsky QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Dorogomilovsky QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N Leningradsky Rynok QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.

Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N Vernisazh in Izmailovo QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.

Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Bookshop Moskva QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

Business-Centre Bookbridge QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.

Dom Inostrannoy Knigi QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Respublika QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW

Shopping Centres Atrium QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK

Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A 52 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Supermarkets Bakhetle QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A Globus Gourmet QD-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 bldg. 1, MKitay-gorod, tel. (+7) 495 662 66 03, www.globusgurme.ru. Open 24 hrs. PA Gum Gastronom №1 QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK Hediard QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Yeliseevsky QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

DON GIULIO

Salumeria Formaggeria Prodotti Italiani a Mosca This unusual little shop marks out its own Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow surroundings. The combination of the most traditional Moscow architecture in the centre of the city and the powerfully beating Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you on what to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods. They also opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22/15 (entrance via tea house Le Voyage du Thé, metro Tverskaya) and Presnenskaya nab. 10 (Moscow City, tower B, metro Vystavochnaya).

Don Giulio’s latest venture is La Scarpetta, a restaurant that takes its Italian roots just as seriously as do the shops. It is located on pereulok Kholzunova 9/1, just a short walk from Frunzenskaya metro station. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A

Art salon on starosadsky This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www. art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

December 2014 – January 2015

53

Business directory

Expat & Lifestyle Cultural & Educational Centres

Accountants and Consultants Awara QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.

Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.

Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com.

Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.

KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru.

LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.

Mega-Intel Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00.

PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.

10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.

SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.

The Lighthouse Group QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.

Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.

Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru.

Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru.

The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.

The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Exhibition and conference centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.

Central exhibition hall Manezh QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.

Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums. info/M419.

Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.

Expocentre QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.

Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.

World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.

Lawyers and notaries TIM Services & TIM Advisers QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.

Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.

G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive search QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners.

The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the international centres are located there.

British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.

Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/ deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/ russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.

Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

International Schools Atlantic International School QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61.

QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.

British International School QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.

Little Angels QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.

Montessori School QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A P’tit Cref QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.

The Anglo-American School of Moscow QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru.

The International School of Moscow QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: No pain, no gain If a Russian tells you: “Bez truda ne vytashchish i rybku iz pruda”, you could be forgiven for not understanding the expression whatsoever. The literal translation for this phrase is ‘Without effort, you cannot even pull a fish out of a pond’, and it was coined by fishermen who used the expression to explain their large catch to passers-by. It is difficult to find concrete meaning behind these words, but the phrase indicates that nothing can be achieved without a lot of effort and attention to detail. When translated idiomatically, the phrase simply means ‘no pain, no gain’.

QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

International Women´s Club OF MOSCOW It’s winter again here in Moscow and whether you’re new to the city or have been living here for a while, if you’re dreading the cold and short days, why not get out and socialize? No need to spend the white season by yourself! The International Women’s Club of Moscow has a busy schedule: great company, useful advice, and interesting pastimes to get you through the grey and freezing. Pop by one of their Coffee Mornings and check out their website www.iwcmoscow. ru to see what IWC has to offer! And also keep an eye open for their upcoming big event in March 2015: the Embassies of the World Dinner & Ball!

December 2014 – January 2015

55

Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience Interview with Francois Morvan, General Manager, Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Hotel.

Please tell us a few words about yourself. I am married with two young children, and I have been living in Moscow for almost six years now. I have had the great honour to work in three different areas of the capital, and for three very iconic establishments. This has given me the opportunity to realise what a diverse market it is, and I am enjoying it here just as much now as I was on day one, discovering changes, seeing the city evolve, finding new places to visit.

What makes the Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya a very special hotel? First of all is the opportunity to return to the Hilton brand, where I had worked for a decade across four different countries. Second is simply the privilege of managing such a unique hotel, one of the Moscow’s landmark seven sisters, and third to have the pleasure to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Hotel Leningradskaya - being in the right place at the right time!

What does Moscow mean to you? Moscow is home, it is where my family grew up: my eldest son arrived here when he was just six weeks old, and the second was born here, so you can imagine how much Moscow means to them. And if it means all that to them, then for me it is even more special.

What do you enjoy most about living in Moscow?

Your favourite places to go at weekends? I love the intense weekdays, the traffic, the dynamism, always something happening, and then the very quiet weekend, the city suddenly at rest - it is like being in a totally different place. My favourite weekend place in Moscow is the Hermitage Sad from May to October, just sitting on the grass or on one of the park benches. It has a unique and friendly atmosphere, a very different side to our city. Second would have to be taking long walks across the city to rediscover renovated neighbourhoods, and spending free time to look more closely at places that we do not even notice during the week, even though we may pass close by every day.

What do you like most about working in Moscow?

First has to be the diversity of the city, and the chance it provides to encounter people from all over the world.

Second, the pulsating rhythm that life runs at in Moscow - it really is like nowhere else. And third, the constant evolution and the ever-changing nature of the locals and the city’s culture, taste and lifestyle.

56 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle Expat Contacts

Religious Services

AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org.

American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org.

Associazione Signore Italiane a Mosca (Italian Women’s Club) Qasi.mosca@hotmail.com Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.

British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.

English Language Evenings (ELE) Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.

Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com.

EXPATinRUSSIA Qwww.expatinrussia.com.

International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru.

InterNations Qwww.internations.org.

Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.

Moscow Hash House Harriers Qwww.moscowh3.com.

Moscow International Choir Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com.

MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.

Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.

Rotary Club Moscow International Qwww.rcmi.ru.

SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.

Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.

Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30.

International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org.

Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00.

Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.

Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations.

If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Choral Synagogue

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru.

Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.

Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.

St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.

St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de.

Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tax and holidays In most European countries, personal income tax is the favourite subject of conversation. Issues like the personal use of company cars and mortgage interest are all highly regulated and complex areas, and the taxpayer who knows the rules can get a tax refund worth, say, a weekend for two in Venice. In Russia this is all different.

The tax rate is one of the lowest in the world (13% for residents, 30% for non-residents which are people who spend less than 183 days in Russia). Personal income tax is withheld by the employer and because the rate is flat, not progressive, all the tax you must pay is already withheld by your employer. That does not leave much to talk about, so it seems.

In order to “stimulate” the personal ownership of real estate, each tax resident (which includes foreigners) has a once-in-a-lifetime deduction of 2 million roubles.

So if you buy an apartment, you are entitled to a deduction. This deduction is further designed in a very smart way: you should go to your employer and show him all the paperwork which proves that you have acquired your shoebox. Nevertheless, 260,000 roubles (still more than 5,000 Euro at the current rate) is closer to a family vacation to Thailand for at least a week.

But it does not stop there. Say, parents would like to pass their apartment to their children. This can be done tax free. But if they donate money with which the child buys the apartment, that child can also claim the once-in-a-lifetime tax rebate of 5,000 Euro from their employer. For the parents, the income from the sale of real estate which they have held for more than 3 years is tax free. If they owned it less than three years, they can choose: a standard deduction of 1 million roubles or the actual profit made. This means they have to file a declaration with the tax inspectorate and show the original purchase documentation. This idea traditionally meets some resistance with Russians, because they rather not claim a tax refund than zasvetitsa (literally to shine through, meaning to get exposed) with the tax authorities. Or, as one of my former landlords used to say: anything over 100 dollars is a million.

Unfortunately, when you stop being a tax resident, the deductions and exemptions mentioned above are no longer applicable. If you sell your apartment after you have left, you pay 30% over the gross amount received.

In financial terms, this is life or death. This is why many expats prefer to leave Russia in the autumn rather than in the spring: the difference in rate (13% vs. 30%) applies to all income received that year and makes it worth to spend the vacation in Sochi (or, better, at lake Baikal) and save the value of trip around the world in taxes.

Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

December 2014 – January 2015

57

Maps

Expat & Lifestyle Cultural differences There is a Russian expression “Pyat minut ne opozdanie’ (Five minutes doesn’t constitute being late), and given the horrendous traffic jams that you face in Moscow, this is particularly apt. Schedules are somewhat more fluid in Russia than in the West so showing up even ten or twenty minutes late is unlikely to raise any eyebrows, although it is considered courteous to call in advance and let them know that you’re stuck in traffic. Arriving early isn’t an issue, and it can take time to actually get into a building as documents need to be checked, and in more remote locations the security staff may be unfamiliar with having foreign guests visiting & therefore can have difficulty deciphering your name on your ID if it isn’t written in Russian. This process at some larger state organizations can take surprisingly long - the overmanned security department need to justify their existence somehow, and some firms believe that this is part of their grandiose image, and even longer if a propusk (entry pass) hasn’t been pre-ordered for you.

Moving and Relocations

© Студия Артемия Лебедева

AGS FROESCH Russia QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com.

Allied Pickfords QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru.

Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N Eolia QUl. Tsandera 4, tel. (+7) 905 551 71 49, www.eoliarelocation.ru. Open 9:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Move One Relocation QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.

There is still a degree of paranoia about non-Russian nationals visiting large, state-run companies and ordering a propusk could take several days. Consequently if a meeting has been scheduled at short notice, or you are bringing along an additional colleague, it may be more convenient – and in some cases necessary, to meet in a nearby café or restaurant. Alternatively, if you have a local office in a convenient location, you can always invite your counterparts to your premises.

A word of warning; meetings with senior government officials are likely to begin on time so it would be seen as bad form to arrive late. Contrary to how it may first appear, Russians are generally much more emotional than Westerners, and sometimes make decisions that on the surface can appear quite irrational, and on a whim, even in seemingly serious business situations. Don’t look for logic as there simply isn’t any – Russians feel that western-style pragmatism is plain boring!

Taking things to heart is a very Russian trait – known as ‘obida’ (offence) and affects the way people work, particularly in sales. Russians are extremely reluctant to do anything that could be construed as unsolicited, such as making cold calls due to the fear of rejection which they will take extremely personally, almost as a personal insult.

In the workplace, Russians may be reluctant to forecast sales projections as they are worried that even mentioning it to someone before it is completed might jinx it (‘sglazit’), so you may find yourself having to ask more questions than you expected to get to the bottom of a project or sales that it still in the pipeline. Similarly woman may not announce that they are pregnant until several months into their pregnancy.

Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com 58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Charities Children’s Hospital Fund QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44, www.childhospital.ru.

Marias Children Art Center QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MPC Social Services Qadministrator@mpcrussia.org, www.mpcss.org.

Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www. bbbsrussia.org.

Nastenka Foundation QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS, Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 53 77, www.nastenka.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russian Orphan Opportunity Fund - ROOF QPorkhovsky region, village Baranovo 4, tel. (+7) 926 072 05 48, www.roofnet.org. moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

59

6

11 5

47

UL AN SK YP ER .

AK AD 7 41 EM IKA 35

5

4

23

R.

KOL PAC HNY PE

PER.

YAUZS KY BUL. POKRO VSKY B UL.

35

7 ARKH ANG ELS KY PE R.

SV ER CH K 6 OV PE R.

M YA SN ITS KA YA 5 UL .

BASM AN

OR LIK OV

PE R.

SA KH AR OV AP R.

KALAN CHEVSK AYA U L.

BO 2 L. SPAS SKA 4 YA UL .

KOPTELSKY PE R.

KOSTYANS KY PER.

R. PEV CHE SKY PE

10

SRETENKA UL.

KITAYGO RODSKY PER.

26

UST YIN SKY PR.

MANEZ HNAYA UL.

28 ER 5 M OLA 9 EVSK

17

(1Y)

MILYUTINSKY PER.

UL. MAL. LU BYANKA

CH AY AN OV A

UL .G AS HE KA BO L. S AD 3 OV AY A 10 UL.

13

ZO OL OG ICH ESK 20 AY AU L.

TRUB NAYA UL.

6 3

UL .

13

9

MOH OVAY A UL.

6

VO LH ON KA UL .

8

NS KY PER .

OK HO TN YR YA D

TS KY PE R.

NI KI

GA ZE TN YP ER .

R.

ROM ANO V PE

1

R.

NI KO L 4 SKAY AU L.

BO L. BR ON NA TVE 17 YA RSK UL OY 23 .

BUL .

20 TVE RSK OY BUL L .

10 EON M TIE AL VOZ .G VS NES KY NE ENS P Z KY P DI ER 19 ER. KO .

VS 2 KY PE 7 BR R. YU 22 SO V 6 PER .

1

BOL . LU BYA NKA UL.

UL .

8

BOL. KISLO VSKY PER.

VA SIL YE VS KA UL YA .Y UL UL IU .

SA FU CH IKA

BO L. G RU ZIN SKA YA UL .

39

22

SADO VAYA -KUD 9 RINS 3 KAYA UL. VSPOLN 21 Y PER.

BO L.P AT RIA RS HY PE R.

9

3

MA L. Z NA ME

6

BOLSHOY

3 16

NIK OL

OYA 11 MSK– January 2015 December 2014 AY A 12 UL.

65

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

7

E

52

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSK Y PER. 29 GOGOLEVSK Y BUL.

50

9

15

3

OLE VO P NTSO 8 VORO 4

5 11 AB. KAYA N NICHES YA BR SERE NAB. OVSKAYA BERNIK 2

Z YAU

Y PER. STAROKONYUSHENN

5

46

R.

CHKALOVS

VERK HNY AYA

8

SKY PER.

33

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH EVS KY P ER.

24

R.

18

KUR VOK

28

TRUBNIKOVS KY PE

UL.

22

VAL ANOY ZEMLY

2

23

G

11

.

ER ER. YP IN P SK LYAL EN OS DS PO

NOVINSKY BUL.

O TS OL EK 4 VO 1 DO SA

KURSKAYA

5

RAU SHSK AYA NAB .

16

SAD OVN ICH 18 ESKAY 13 AU

NY PE PODKOLOKOL 12

DU RAS OV SKY PER .

11

D

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket 6

8

18

5

3

10

18

10

36

G UL BALCHU

moscow.inyourpocket.com

AB. KAYA N SOFIYS30

9

14

KRE

.

UL

C

5 Y PER. AZENN BOL. K

13

MOS KVOR ETSK AYA N AB.

BOLSHOY ZAMOSKVORETSKY MOST

NAB. SKAYA MLEV

KA Z

ER. YP EN 22 ARM Z A K 6

9

KA AN LY SO

5

BOROVITSKAYA

13

4

VARVARKA UL.

VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL.

4

STAROSADSKY PER.

KITAY GOROD

15 AS AB AY AR OR T S 14 O

2 L. 8 AU 4 VK O KR PO

7 KY S OV KHL O H K

3 2

15 NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.

5

.

6

SQ UA RE )

L. AP AY AR ST

9 L. U KA 10 ILIN 6

32

21

6

4

.

PER NY

2

11

KITAY GOROD

2

12

9 .

R PE SKY 12 HEV ISHC GLIN 3 . SPASO 6 L BO

23

(R ED

NS KY PE R.

37

9

L KA U ROV 4 POK

15

MAROSEYKA UL.

.

6 PER SKY YEV IPAT ER. KY P OLS 6 NIK 4 3 .

ER YP BN RY

BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

VE TO SH NY PE R.

YA VA NO

KR AS NA YA PL .

BO GO YA VL E

R. PE

5

LUBYANKA

.

PER KY ASS 6 ERK CH

OKHOTNY RYAD

4

5

R. Y PE VSK NYE O T 3 I 4 R 1 HA 2 .K 15 R. BOL E YP 12 NN MA 11 R FU L. AU V O HK S A 3 M

14

.

PER SKY TIN US 1 LATO L. Z 13 BO 2 ZD 11 ROE YP SK AN .

BY PL LU

LUBYANKA

L. BO 4

PLOSHCHAD REVOLUTSII

KY NS YA M AR

5 TEATRALNAYA

DA BO SLO YA NA D O OR OG

32

BO GU .

BR OV PSEYRA TN P 8 ER. CHISTYE PRUDY IKO VP ER 2 .

CH IST OP RU DN YB UL 3 .

R .

PE Y N EN 2 L O 1 K O IV 3 KR 4 3 8 3 6 2

3

2

3

SRETENSKY BULVAR

NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. 4

KRASNYE VOROTA

.

5 SKY PER V PO TA PO

8

7

8

PUSHECHNAYA UL. 5

6

SA D 18 OVA YA -SP AS SK AY AU L.

.

UL AY SK NIT S 0 A MY 4

4

KUZNETSKY MOST

1

KAZANSKY VOKZAL

8

UL.

KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL.

L. AU IN LYG AP .

CH UL O OG SK OV UK ZH

10

1 KUZNET 9 SKY MO ST

KOMSOMOLSKAYA

5

10

ROZHDESTVENKA UL.

UL.

9

TURGENEVSKAYA

3 VARSONOF YEVSKY PE 2 R. 6

E

12

SK AY AU L.

NA UD PR O N AS KR

YAROSLAVSKY VOKZAL

R. Y PE VSK 10 ZLO . KO BOL 4 R. PE SKY YEV ON RIT HA L. K MA

18

.

2

NEGLINNAYA

16 UL. VKA RO PET 14

.

A UL NAY TRUB

BUL. TSVETNOY

24

19

KON YUSH KOV SKAY A UL

RA PROSPEKT MI

UL. GILYAROVSKOGO

SHCHEPKINA UL.

MESHCHANSKAYA UL.

32

28

UL. 5

3 19

3

2 EZD Y PRO RALN TEAT 4

R. PE

Y SK IEV 1 RG O GE

7

11

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

L. 3 OST U YM TSK NE Z KU 4

4

30 PER. VRAZHEK SIVTSEV

22

14

B

39

60 Moscow In Your Pocket

21

25

.

UL

18

48

.

PER KOV TNI PLO

SMOLENSKAYA

AT 28 ARB

ER. VP IKO SHN

UL .

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

16

16

11 BOL. KISE LNY PER.

4

2

MANEZHNAYA PL.

ARBATSKAYA

.

PER

38

11

24

SKY NIT MA KAR

VOZDVIZH ENKA

RAKHM ANOVSK Y PER.

.

UL

L. AYA U ORSK POZIT KOM 25

5

2

BO L. N IKI 6 TSK AYA

10

OCHNY PER. ROT 8

3

7

NOVY ARBAT UL. 17

21

25

23

22

KH L EB 8 NY PE R. 14

PER. PECHATNIKOV

ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL. 20

SELIVERSTOV PER.

MAL. G OLOVIN PER. PROS VIRIN PER. LUKO V PER .

ASHC HEU LOV PER. RYBNIK OV PER 1 SRETENSKY BUL. .

PER. BOL. SERGIEVSKY KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.

5

TRUBNAYA

R. PE

.

ER YP SK ER G R ME KA 12

19

12

15

.

2

6

BOL. MOLCH ANOVKA UL.

28

PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA 2 6

POSLEDNY PER. BOL. GOLOVIN PER. PUSHKAREV PER.

LENINGRADSKY VOKZAL

2 DOK UC HA 13 E 10 V PE R. SKO RN YA ZH NY PE R. BO L. S UK HA REV K 10 AYA P L.

2

SUKHAREVSKAYA

DAEV PER.

EMaps

28

UL. BOL. SPASSKAYA

3

SRETENSK Y TUPIK

13 BOL. BALKANSKY PER.

GROKHOLSKY PER.

12

BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.

12

26 OVKA TR MI L. D BO

23

LE STO

.

UL

32

A AY SK ER 12 TV

36

2

SKA TER TNY PER .

UL .

Y SK OV TR PE

16

MAL . NIK 16 ITSK AYA UL. 13 BOL. N IKITSKA YA UL.

.

PER NY ASH KAL L. Y BU ITSK ER. NIK KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

4 PO 6 VA RS KA YA

9

35

R.

12

GRA NAT NY P E

20

12

19

UL.

22

48

PETR OVSK Y BUL

5

D

MAL. SU 3 1 KHAREV SKAYA PL .

8

1-Y KOLOBO VSKY PER

20

I SP

17

TSVETNOY BULVAR

SREDNY KARETNY PER.

UL.

27

19

3

A NAY RON L. B MA

PRESNENSKAYA

36

.

UL KA OV ON ID IR SP

BARRIKADNAYA

R. PE NY UD PR KH YO TR R. PE KY INS IKH OZ L. K BO

2

.

ER YP

24

PER.

28

L. AU IN AS KR

3

TROITSKAYA UL.

7 SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.

TNY KARE BOL.

VKA ITRO . DM MAL

.

PER SKY OV 5 EN M KY PER. PI USPENS10 MAYAKOVSKAYA RO .

A R PE 4 ST RNY YA TV GT ER DE SK AY .

A UL PER L. .

SKY BU 12 NOY YIN T AS S T A S STR NA L. AP AY SK .

N PUSHKINSKAYA I R K PE SH Y PU CHEKHOVSKAYA Y PE INSK SK R. ZIKH R. O V K PE L. HE R. KY AS TVERSKAYA MA PE ITS AL KY OZ S .P K L TIN BO SY .

ER P KY VS YE ON RID

TRIUMFALNAYA PL.

2 3

R. LIKHOV PE D YA YR TN RE . KA UL

MAYAKOVSKAYA

19

27

8

1-Y VOL KONSK Y PER.

PER.

.

UL .

D

PROSPEKT MIRA

LAVRSKY PER.

C

L 9 DE 1 43 UL. YA E KOLTSO NA SADOVO RET SADOVAYA-KA 20 12 .

L. PER YA U INY LNA ZHE MFA IU R ORU YA-T OVA SAD MAL. KARETNY PER.

7

8

52

2

.

UL 5 AYA K S AT EG

.

26

Y PR. PIYSK OLYM

VA UL .

1

L. AU IN AS KR

PER.

4-Y AT VE RS KA YA -YA M SK AY A

DUR OVA UL

24

A UL. OCHNAY SAMOTY

12

1

FA DE E

UL AYA VSK UKO GOR DOL 23

BELORUSSKAYA

B

8

ZAL

4

3-Y A TV NE 2-Y ER VS KO SK 1-Y A TV GO AY A E R A TV UL -YA 1-Y ER SKA .

M AB YA SK SK -YA AY RE 2-Y A AYA ST M AB Y SK AM SKA UL RE AY .

Y SK ST AU AY A U SK L. AY A U L. AU L. L.

BELORUSSKAYA

3

XA ND RA

1-Y SA MOTE CHNY PER.

L. AU KAY ARS L ET PRO SNO KRA

AL E

C 20

MI US SK AY AP L.

LE SN AY A

PR .

NOVOSLOBODSKAYA

VASNETSOVA

B

UL .

Maps

40

GR AD SK Y

RK HN YA YA KR AS NO SE L

61 33

PER.

KO

YAUZS KY BUL. POKRO VSKY B UL.

R. PEV CHE SKY PE

KITAYGO RODSKY PER.

10

SADOVOE KOLTSO

UST YIN SKY PR.

6

22 NA RO SA DN DO AYA VO UL. 50 EK OL TS O

M SK AY AU L.

NI ZH NA YA KR AS NO KH OL

PAVELETSKY VOKZAL

13 18 .

PER

3

5 .

PER KY ITS

2

5

UL.

67

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

PAVELETSKAYA

4

.

2 LYUSIN OVSK AYA U L

KY ASS OSP NOV 9

18

17

NOVOSPASSKY KRUT 3-Y MOST

E

B. NA YA KA ITS UT KR

7

DUBININSKAYA UL.

5

1-Y DOBRYNINSKY PER.

2

PRO EZD

MAL.PO LYANKA UL.

MAL. ORDYNKA UL.

BOL. ORDYNKA UL.

9

26 . YAK IMA NKA 24 29 25 UL.

32 BOL 39 43

PYATNITS KAYA

2-Y KAZACHY PER.

18 1

YAK IMA NSK Y

R.

KUR SOV OY P E 15

BU TIK OV SKY PE R.

BO LO TN YA AY 1-Y KIM AN 5 GO AB 4 ANS LU .

TV K A I YA 3 NSKY NA PE B .

R. 22 KAZAN SKY PE R.

71

NA B. PR EC HIS TE 45 NS KA YA

42

19

13

11

MAR O 3 NOVSKY PER. 6

14

1

SA DO VN ICH 22 ES KY PR OE ZD

6

VO LH ON KA UL .

8

NS KY PER .

MA L. Z NA ME

R.

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

15

OS TO ZH EN K 17 A U L.

25

BERSENEV SKAYA NA B. 12

2

27

37 49

3

TAG AN

3

42

19

PU SH KIN SKA YA NA B.

82 .

NAB AYA VSK RKO OZE

BOLSHOY KRASNOKHOLMSKY MOST

KOZ HE 7 6 VNICH ESK AY 16 A UL.

Z SOL

MARKSISTSKAYA

2

53

3 DRA XAN ALE 4

YA KA 14 TS SIS 15 YA UL. 18 RK KA MA 4 OVS NTS 7 VORO 6 9 IKI HCH ENS KAM 6 7 SHIE BOL UL.

40

4

MARKSISTSKAYA

TAGANSKAYA

9

48

10

9 4

.

PER

R.

AB. AYA N HARN GONC

38

71 75

4 FR UN ZEN SKA YA NA B.

N

MANEZ HNAYA UL.

MOH OVAY A UL.

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSK Y PER. 29 GOGOLEVSK Y BUL.

Y PER. STAROKONYUSHENN

MAL. VLASYEVSKY PER.

BOL. V LASYE VSKY PER.

3

OK H 13

9

ROM ANO V PE

R.

BOL. KISLO VSKY PER.

1

3

1

R.

TRUBNIKOVS KY PE

NOVINSKY BUL.

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH E

2

23

KO

27

1

35 UL. AYA 23 HARN NC GO 26

33

Y PE ARN NCH GO 2-Y

34

ER RIV

UL. ESKAY VNICH SADO 71 66

Y ESK ICH ELN KOT -Y 5

32 73

RK HN YA YA RA DI SH CH 15 EV SK AY AU L.

72

19

65

VE

25

13

52

UL.

1

50

9

AYA ZSK YAU

10

46

8

HIKH A UL. 20

33

28

5

12

OW SC MO

55

7 L. YA U RSKA TATA14

30

39 .

14

13 15 SKY PER. CHENOV BOL. STRO 2 1

D

33

18

11

29 .

L YA U TSKA 31 OKUZNE6 3 NOV 17

17 IKOVSKY PER. 3-Y MONETCH

UL INA 21 KHRUSH BA 20

54

11

NIK OLO YAM 11 SKA YA 12 UL.

3 PAVELETSKAYA PL.

9

3 16

SH LYU ZO VAY AN AB .

PAVELETSKAYA

18 UL. VALOVAYA

3

B. 17 B. NA NA YA YA SKA SKA IAN HE AM NIC OD TEL SM KO KO

3

25

55

65

10 PER. YANNY STREM

3

14

35

44

28

48

ER. KY P ARS TAT .

L BO

16 PER. OVSKY 20 NETCHIK 5-Y MO11

10

11

18

.

UL

4

.

PER SKY OV 15 YAK N H VIS 23

35

5

TETERIN SKY PER. 2 14

30

12

45

UL. AYA 29 TARSK . TA BOL

11

42

49

43

47

13

33

15

5

EPA UL. ZATS 19

.

ER R. YP SK EN OS DS

9

39

22

GOLIKOVSKY

35

30

E

5 11 AB. KAYA N NICHES YA BR SERE NAB. OVSKAYA BERNIK 2

1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.

42

.

NAB 14 AYA VSK RKO 8 OZE

9

34

moscow.inyourpocket.com

YA UL. OVSKA RPUKH14 BOL. SE 8 15

C

DOBRYNINSKAYA

37

11 L. AU 5 NITSKAY 12 T 6 PYA

11

30

54

APAKOVA PR.

12

7

6 8

10 1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. 13 R. 25 Y PE ETSK UZN 2-Y NO VOK

2-Y MON ETCHIKOV SKY PER.

4

ZHITNAYA UL. SADOVOE KOLTSO L UL. KOROVY VA5 3

.

PER 16 OVSKY 9 RK OZE

8 ER. KY P EVS ACH M L 9 O RY T STA

12

46

4

OKTYABRSKAYA

.

Y PER RELSK POGO

64 72 63 A NK LYA 58 PO L. 53 . BO 6 UL 5

14

UL. MYTNAYA

62 Moscow In Your Pocket

6

16

3

.

PR KY NS I N LE

PER.

4 PER. 16 VSKY 2-Y SPASONALIVKO

6

PER.

6 1-Y KAZACHY PER.

1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.

OKTYABRSKAYA

B

POLYANKA

16 1-Y SPAS 4 19 ONALIVKOVSKY

VA L.

4

GORKY PARK PIER

4

.

10 ER KOV P BRODNI

41

KRY MS KY

6 ER. VSKY P PYZHE 5

CHKALOVS

VERK HNY AYA

OLE VO P NTSO 8 VORO 4

.

PER SKY IAT SAR S I M KO

ER. KY P OVS RUN 13

NOVOKUZNETSKAYA

9

4

KRYMSKY MOST

10

10

4

35

5

CO

S

O

M

RI

27

14 10 KLIMENTOVSKY PER. OLMACHEVSKY PER. BOL. T TRETYAKOVSKAYA

28

W

R VE

1

18

R.

BOLSHOY USTYINSKY MOST

26

OVCH INNIK OVSKA YA NA 6 B.

36

6

MALY KAMENNY MOST

PATRIARSHY MOST

MOLOCHNY PER. KO RO BE YN KH 3 IK OV ILK OV 11 PE R. PE R. 9 1 B. NA YA KA S .

EN AB ST HI AN EC AY PR SK YM KR

NY PE PODKOLOKOL 12

6

13

.

AB 2 AN 3 LUZHKOV AY . MOST EVSK B A SH AN DA KA AY TN LO O B 5 10

15

7

SAD OVN ICH 18 ESKAY 13 AU L.

6

3

.

PL YA NA T LO BO

3

NO VO KR YM SK PARK KULTURY YP KR YM R. SKY PRO EZD

10

BOLSHOY KAMENNY MOST

5

27

VP ER .

KA AN LY SO

18

RAU SHSK AYA NAB .

16

10

36

20

S 1 OYM ON OV 12 5 SKY P 11 RO EZ 1 D 2 2 15 -Y O 3 BY DE 12 N SK 4 PO YP 13ZHA 8 ER RS .

KY 1 1-Y 10 PE R ZA .

CH AT YE 5 VS KY 13PER 4 .

AB. KAYA N SOFIYS30

8

PO ME RA NT SE

KRE

1

8

DU RAS OV SKY PER .

13

MOS KVOR ETSK AYA N AB.

BOLSHOY ZAMOSKVORETSKY MOST

NAB. SKAYA MLEV

ER. KY P EVS ASH KAD .

1-Y PER SKY 27 HIN R. Y PE RUS N T 32 LAV ONE ROM . . STA 25 A UL. PER 6 BOL TNY NK LYA ONE . PO 20 ROM BOL 7 STA 24 3 4 22 UL. 2 NKA IMA . YAK MAL

18 .

UL KA ESN 28 HIST ECH EN EC OV PR SK YP 21 ER .

4 R. PE KY NS

35

R.

R. PE KY NS KI OT OP KR

8

.

38

7

KI OP ER 11

29 6-8

22 ENKO UL

3

.

L. BO 25

10

4

22 L KY BU LENS SMO

4

PA 10 LIM 15 OVSK 4 Y PER. 9

KY INS SH 1 LEV 1

6 R. PE

8 CHI STY PE

KROPOTKINSKAYA

12

10 PER. VSKY GLAZO 9

4

10-12 GAGARINSKY PER.

PRECH ISTEN S 7 KY PER.

28

4 PER. EINY RUZH22

22

BOROVITSKAYA

3

28

11

KITAY GOROD

VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL.

G UL. BALCHU

30 PER. VRAZHEK SIVTSEV

22

19

2

Maps

7 KY S OV KHL KHO

VARVARKA UL.

3

14

48

39

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

D

3

ER. YP EN 22 RM A Z KA 6

4

38

21

25

.

UL

18

AT 28 ARB

.

PER

PER. ZHNY DENE

YA UL. 7

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

16

.

PER KOV TNI PLO

SMOLENSKAYA

BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

ARBATSKAYA

24

SKY NIT MA KAR

UL. 5

SQ UA RE )

STAROSADSKY PER.

3

2

11

(R ED

5

L. AYA U ORSK POZIT KOM 25

VOZDVIZH ENKA

C

9 L. U KA 10 ILIN 6

13

6

21

5

10

OCHNY PER. ROT 8

B

NOVY ARBAT UL. 17

4

9 .

R PE SKY 12 HEV ISHC GLIN 3 . SPASO 6 L BO

23

22

KR AS NA YA PL .

NS KY PE R.

KITAY GOROD

L. AP AY AR ST

28

7

VE TO SH NY PE R.

OKHOTNY RYAD

UL .

BO GO YA VL E

23

32

BOL. MOLCH ANOVKA UL.

BO L. N IKI 6 TSK AYA

PLOSHCHAD REVOLUTSII

MANEZHNAYA PL.

.

6 PER SKY YEV IPAT ER. KY P OLS 6 NIK 4 3 .

ER YP BN RY

36

KH L EB 8 NY PE R. 14

12

15

.

PER KY ASS 6

Maps

PER .

23

ER. YP HN LAS L. Y BU ITSK ER. KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

UL .

December 2014 – January 2015

13

63

UL

St. Petersburg

Street register 1905 Goda ul.

Akademika Sakharova pr.

Alexandra Nevskogo ul.

Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul.

Apakova pr.

Arbat ul.

Armyansky per.

Bakhrushina ul.

Balchug ul.

Bernikovskaya nab.

Bersenevskaya nab.

Bobrov per.

Bogoyavlensky per.

Bol. Afanasyevsky per.

Bol. Balkansky per.

Bol. Bronnaya ul.

Bol. Dmitrovka ul.

Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul.

Bol. Gruzinskaya ul.

Bol. Karetny per.

Bol. Kazenny per.

Bol. Kharitonyevsky per.

Bol. Kiselny per.

Bol. Kislovsky per.

Bol. Kozikhinsky per.

Bol. Kozlovsky per.

Bol. Levshinsky per.

Bol. Lubyanka ul.

Bol. Molchanovka ul.

Bol. Nikitskaya ul.

Bol. Ordynka ul.

Bol. Palashevsky per.

Bol. Patriarshy per.

Bol. Polyanka ul.

Bol. Sadovaya ul.

Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul.

Bol. Spasskaya ul.

Bol. Staromonetny per.

Bol. Strochenovsky per.

Bol. Sukharevkaya pl.

Bol. Sukharevsky per.

Bol. Tatarskaya ul.

Bol. Tatarsky per.

Bol. Tishinsky per.

Bol. Vlasyevsky per.

Bol. Yakimanka ul.

Bol. Znamensky per.

Bolotnaya nab.

Bolotnaya pl.

Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per.

Butikovsky per.

Chayanova ul.

Chistoprudny bul.

Chisty per.

Delegatskaya ul.

Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per.

Dolgorukovskaya ul.

Dubininskaya ul.

Durasovsky per.

Durova ul.

Ermolaevsky per.

Eropkinsky per.

Fadeeva ul.

Filippovsky per.

Furmanny per.

Gagarinsky per.

Gazetny per.

Gilyarovskogo ul.

Glazovsky per.

Gogolevsky bul.

Golikovsky per.

A-1/2 D-1/2 А/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4

64 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab.

Goncharnaya ul.

Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per.

Granatny per.

Grokholsky per.

Gusyatnikov per.

Ilinka ul.

Ipatyevsky per.

Kadashevskaya nab.

Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul.

Kalashny per.

Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul.

Kazansky per.

Kazarmeny per.

Khilkov per.

Khlebny per.

Khokhlovsky per.

Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul.

Klimentovsky per.

Kolpachny per.

Kompozitorskaya ul.

Komsomolskaya pl.

Komsomolsky pr.

Konyushkovskaya ul.

Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per.

Korovy Val ul.

Kosmodamianskaya nab.

Kostyansky per.

Kotelnicheskaya nab.

Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per.

Krasina ul.

Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul.

Krasnopresnenskaya nab.

Krasnoproletarskaya ul.

Krasnoprudnaya ul.

Kremlevskaya nab.

Krivokolenny per.

Kropotkinsky per.

Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab.

Krymskay nab.

Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per.

Kutuzovsky pr.

Kuznetsky most ul.

Lavrsky per.

Lavrushinsky per.

Leninsky pr.

Leontievsky per.

Lesnaya ul.

Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per.

Mal. Bronnaya ul.

Mal. Dmitrovka ul.

Mal. Gruzinskaya ul.

Mal. Karetny per.

Mal. Kozikhinsky per.

Mal. Nikitskaya ul.

Mal. Ordynka ul.

Mal. Polyanka ul.

Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.

Mal. Yakimanka ul.

Mal. Znamensky per.

Manezhnaya pl.

Manezhnaya ul.

Marksistskaya ul.

C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4

Maronovsky per.

Maroseyka ul.

Mashkova ul.

Merzlyakovsky per.

Milyutinsky per.

Miusskaya pl.

Mohovaya ul.

Molochny per.

Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab.

Myasnitskaya ul.

Mytnaya ul.

Neglinnaya ul.

Nikitsky bul.

Nikitsky per.

Nikoloyamskaya ul.

Nikolskaya ul.

Nikolsky per.

N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.

N. Krasnoselskaya ul.

Novaya Basmannaya ul.

Novaya pl.

Novinsky bul.

Novokrymsky pr.

Novokuznetskaya ul.

Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul.

Novy Arbat ul.

Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul.

Olimpiysky pr.

Ostozhenka ul.

Ovchinnikovskaya nab.

Ozerkovskaya nab.

Ozerkovsky per.

Paveletskaya pl.

Petrovka ul.

Petrovsky bul.

Petrovsky per.

Pyzhevsky per.

Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per.

Plyushchikha ul.

Podkolokolny per.

Podsosensky per.

Pogorelsky per.

Pokrovka ul.

Pokrovsky bul.

Pomerantsev per.

Posledny per.

Potapovsky per.

Povarskaya ul.

Pozharsky per.

Prechistenskaya nab.

Prechistensky per.

Presnensky val ul.

Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul.

Pushkinskaya nab.

Pushkinskaya pl.

Pyatnitskaya ul.

Pevchesky per.

Raushskaya nab.

Romanov per.

Rozhdestvenka ul.

Rozhdestvensky bul.

Runovsky per.

Rybny per.

Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.

Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.

Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.

Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul.

Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul.

Serebryanicheskaya nab.

Shchepkina ul.

Sivtsev Vrazhek per.

Skatertny per.

Smolensky bul.

Smolenskaya ul.

Sofiyskaya nab.

Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul.

Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul.

Spiridonyevsky per.

Sretenka ul.

Sretensky bul.

Stanislavskogo ul.

Staraya pl.

Starokonyushenny per.

Staromonetny per.

Starosadsky per.

Stary Tolmachevsky per.

Stoleshnikov per.

Stolyarny per.

Strastnoy bul.

Sushchevskaya ul.

Sytinsky per.

Tarasa Shevchenko nab.

Tatarskaya ul.

Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per.

Triumfalnaya pl.

Trubnaya ul.

Trubnikovsky per.

Tryokhprudny per.

Tsvetnoy bul.

Tverskaya ul.

Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.

Tverskoy bul.

Usacheva ul.

Ustyinsky pr.

Valovaya ul.

Varsonofyevsky per.

Varvarka ul.

Vasilyevsky spusk pl.

Vasilyevskaya ul.

Vasnetsova per.

V. Radishchevskaya ul.

V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.

Volhonka ul.

Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul.

Vozdvizhenka ul.

Voznesensky per.

Vspolny per.

Yakimanskaya nab.

Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul.

Zemlyanoy Val ul.

Zhitnaya ul.

Zhukovskogo ul.

Znamenka ul.

Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty.

Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing

getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Kazan Cathedral QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.

Kunstkamera QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).

YOUR REFRESHING STAY IN ST.PETERSBURG Perfect hotel for Business & Leisure Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel 33 Kanonerskaya street 190121 St. Petersburg, Russia P: +7 812 610 50 00, F: +7 812 610 50 01

E-2/3/4

C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2

Book online on our website www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.com

Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

65

St. Petersburg Russian Museum QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

HOTELS Grand Hotel Europe QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QNab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QLigovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh

Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.

Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00.

For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com