Darwin & the Gulf

Journal Entries Darwin & Across the Gulf June - August 2008 www.offexploring.com/rreed821

Wheelers Hill Saturday 21 June 2008 Saturday 21st June-Melbourne to Loxton (SA) Speedo start = 146, 498 It was dark (6:30 am) when we pulled out of Wheelers Hill. It was pretty exciting to be heading off at last after all the planning and preparation. Had Al in the passenger's seat, will be a great experience for him to see the Outback and enjoy the camping.

Headed via the Monash and then the Western Highway to Ballarat, Ararat, Horsham, Nhill and finally crossed the SA border and pulled up for late lunch at Bordertown (2pm).

We turned off the Western Highway and headed to Pinaroo. The country was already changing, quite flat and scrubby. Of course I ran out of petrol given the gauges didn't read correctly with the weight of the camper on the back (this turned out to be a somewhat frequent experience !!)

We reached Loxton just on 5pm and booked into the Big 4 caravan park there. Very nice facilities and we were quickly set up for the first time. This was all something quite new to Al. Kerry appeared with a birthday cake to celebrate the event, yes was it was my birthday ! We went to the pub for dinner and celebrated the birthday and the first night of our adventure.

Day's total = 706 km

Loxton Sunday 22 June 2008 Sunday 22nd June-Loxton to bush camp near Erudina Speedo start = 147,204 Loxton is a quiet town on Sunday morning. It had been a cool night but the morning was pleasant.We had breakfast and packed up and were on the road by 9:15. Went past the tree of knowledge which showed the water levels over time, the 1956 floods must have been 25ft above the river banks.

We followed the Murray to Morgan. And by the way, "I'm not crossing the road to get oranges" - those famous last words will come back to haunt me. We passed several orange stalls on the right hand side of the road as we passed through the "Riverland" and I maintained there'd be some on the left so why cross the road. Alas, it was not to be, and when I finally succumbed to a place with oranges on display on the right hand side of the road, they turned out to be plastic !Consequently, as a matter of principle, we did not purchase any oranges !

We proceeded down to the river where we had to wait for the car ferry to take us across the river, there are no bridges across the Murray in SA. It was 12:30 as we crossed the mighty Murray on the ferry.

We continued on to Burra where we stopped for a quite late lunch (nearly 1:20pm) and some pics of this old Cornish miner's village.

We then followed the Barrier Highway through some relatively flat scrubby country through Hallet, Ulooloo and Terowie.

We kept on the Barrier Hwy and bypassed Peterborough. Finally we stopped at Yunta for fuel just after 3:30 pm. This was the last of the bitumen. Got to sit in and have photo in the first road train we'd seen (Mick was taking conveyer belt rollers to the mines in WA from Sydney).

It was soon time to air down as we were now off the sealed roads.

We stopped for some photos at the Waukaringa ruins. Night was starting to come quickly and albeit that we had planned to go to Wilpena, that was not going to happen. We started looking for somewhere to pull over and found a camping spot off the road just near the Erudina Woolshed, the largest in Australia. It was just after 6pm and it was already dark. Luke got a great fire quickly started.

Day's total = 507 km

Erudina Monday 23 June 2008 Monday 23rd June-Erudina - Claytons Speedo start = 147,711 It was quite cool when we rose and the sun was barely above the horizon by 8am. We had brekkie and packed up.

Given the woolshed could just about be seen from where we were we did a U turn and went in and had a look. So impressive, so big and the floor boards were so greased up from the lanoline in the wool. Could have been 12 stands at least. It was after 10 when we finally got away from there. We moved on into the Flinders Ranges, incredibly impressive and the colours vary with the cloud and direction of the sun and the cloud cover. Tracks weren't bad and we made good time passing Martins Well. We then stopped at a fantastic lookout called PUGILIST HILL LOOKOUT (don't ever just go past it !). What a fantastic panorama of the Flinders Ranges. It was just a few more km before reaching the sealed road into Wilpena at Arkapen, and from there it was just a short hop into the Wilpena visitor centre(11:10). Coffee was a good reward for the morning's travels.

It was our intention to go right up through the ranges to Blinman and then across to Parachilna but we wanted to do the "Feral Feast" at the Parachilna pub so we made tracks and cut across to the main road via Brachina Gorge.Great gorge to travel through with archaeological sign posting of points of interest.The tracks were good and we made good time.

We reached the Parachilna Hotel just on 1:30 and were in time for the famous "Feral Feast" - roo, emu, camel etc.Worth the fast run that's all I can say !!The beer went down pretty well also !!

From Parachilna via SMS:from Parachilna, through the Flinders Ranges ?= gr8 Got into road train yesterday.

Enjoying the feral feast at the moment. Off to Marree & then up the Birdsville Track to Claytons for a hot spa After lunch we continued up the main road to Leigh Creek - really nothing there these days, and turned off and went in and had a look at the open cut mines - these provide the coal for the Thomas Playford power station at Pt Augusta basically SA's power !At the viewing area was a giant dragline, quite massive, and you can go all over it!Also an old Titan dump truck.The open cut mines go for miles but the areas near the viewing centre have been dug out.

From there it was on to Lyndhurst where the Strzelecki Track branches off and heads to Innaminka.

The road returned to gravel and we made good time passing the Farina ruins where we stopped at 16:20.A couple of friendly camels decided to walk by and introduce themselves to us.We continued on and finally we reached Marree at 17:11.We really didn't stop for long, just passed through, as we had another 50 km to go to Claytons camp up on the famous Birdsville Track - this was our overnight camp and they have a spa here, something to look forward to after a long day.We reached Claytons as the sun was setting, 18:05.Dinner was burgers and chips.

Spent night on the Clayton River, not that we saw one !!They have a thermal spa and solar powered flushing toilets in the middle of nowhere. 10:00 pm sitting around in the hot spa with a beer after a long day was VERY RELAXING !

54J 259 316E 6795 602N Day's total = 438 km

Claytons Tuesday 24 June 2008 Tuesday 24th June - Claytons to Lake Eyre Speedo start = 148,149 Returned to Marree in the morning to take pictures of the old Ghan trains and top up. Stopped on the way there at Lake Harry ruins, an old date plantation from the 1920s. It was here that I picked up the emu leg on the ground and strapped it onto the bull bar, henceforth we became known as "Emu One".

Arrived at Marree at 10:30 and checked out the town this time, not much apart from a couple of pubs and the old station with Ghan ruins.

This is where Tom Cruise lived, the mailman of the Birdsville Track.

Fuel was expensive and we're not getting great KMs !

Headed west from Marree along the famous Oodnadatta Track. Had been very wet recently and the track was in SHOCKING condition ! Pulled off to take a photo of an old Ghan railway bridge (12:10) and got completely bogged !

Russ had to winch us out ! Firewood was scarce so we picked up some sleepers from the side of the track for an overnight fire. We stopped for lunch (13:05) at "Plane Henge" (Alberrie Creek), a strange place, and what was even worse they had had a Solstice Festival the night before with the burning of the demon (giant bonfire) !! We had a quick lunch and hit the road. Don't know why we were so intimidated by the place, the festival was "no alcohol, no drugs" but .... they were certainly strange people around the place !!! Continued on past South Lake Eyre where we stopped at the viewing point (14:20). The salt of the lake here was quite white and very reflective. It was here that we noticed the left rear was losing air. Changed the tyre at Coward Springs (14:58 when we arrived) - again nice spa available but we spent time changing wheels ! Luke had a dip. Russ also had to re-attach his bash plate too, the bolts had shaken loose ! It was just after 4 pm when we left. They had had 18mm of rain in the area on 14 - 15 May so no wonder the tracks we in such bad condition. We continued on and turned off to the right just short of William Creek to go into North Lake Eyre for our overnight stay, at the Halligan Bay camping ground - quite basic but with toilets - nothing else. We arrived right on sunset at 6:01. Great fire with the sleepers we brought. Dinner was steak & kransky with pasta.

Summary: night was cold, day clear warm. Plenty of DUST ! Roads terrible !

Day's total = 747 km

Lake Eyre Wednesday 25 June 2008 Wednesday 25th June-Lake Eyre - Coober Pedy Speedo start = 148,458 No water but the lake surface was obviously damp from the recent rains, quite muddy instead of bleached white salt.

Departed camp at 10:00 after pumping up the tyre and visiting the edge of the lake. Some of the rock is very shaly. On the way out (10:55) to the Oodnadatta Track we saw a white/cream dingo - they blend into the environment so well.

Travelled up to William Creek where we arrived at 11:30 - petrol here was 196.01 cpl ! Ouch ! Had skinny cap coffee etc, latte ??? .... are you weird, was the question ???

Stopped for lunch in a creek bed under some shade (53 J 565 853E 6003 094N). Certainly not too hot, just pleasant.

Headed across to Coober Pedy and once we entered the Woomera Restricted Area we did a rocket launch. This was terrific, actually quite awesome to launch my little rocket on Woomera, mind you the landing was a bit rough and we broke a fin so we couldn't do any more launches ... pity.

Passed the 9,600 km dog fence some 50 km out from Coober Pedy.

Shuddered along to Coober Pedy for overnight at the Big 4 Caravan Park - that means electricity, showers, toilets, cooking facilities and more. We arrived at 16:10 and had time to casually set up. Unfortunately we found that Russ had a puncture so we chased around trying to get that fixed.

Now heading out to buy some bread etc at the supermarket - $7 loaf at William Creek, a bit cheaper here !

Went to the car wash to remove all the salt that we picked up on the Oodnadatta Track ! Yes, they actually have one in Coober Pedy, and I must say that surprised me. Dinner was pizza from John's Pizza Bar, pretty good actually !

Day's total = 232 km

Coober Pedy Thursday 26 June 2008 Thursday 26th June-Coober Pedy to bush camp near Marla Speedo start = 148,690 Did some early morning sight seeing around Coober Pedy. Went to the Opal Cave and did some shopping.Quite a few aborigines gathering on the main corner up near Zorbas, lot of yabba and dogs everywhere.

Topped up with fuel and then water from the public, coin in the slot, water filling station before departing.

Stopped on the way out of town to check out Tom's Working Opal Mine, great setup showing all the working equipment, and of course the fine talk dust every step you take !

Travelled via Breakaway Lookout where we had lunch (just on 13:00) this offered absolutely fantastic views of colourful landscape ! In fact, extra-ordinary colour vistas.

Then cross country to Oodnadatta. Back to the dog fence with the straight track along side. Arrived at the famous Oodnadatta "Pink Roadhouse" at 16:15. Had a punctured jerry can when we pulled up and had to use the remaining fuel before discarding it. Pricy fuel, still 199.01 cps. Now this is one place that everyone wants to see, in the middle of no-where, the Pink Roadhouse, and we weren't let down.In fact Al bought a pink t-shirt !

Saw a dingo in the middle of absolutely no-where then several wedgies feasting on some road kill.

Plenty of roos abound as we headed into dusk so pulled off for a bush camp where there was plenty of wood for a fire.

Our objective for the day had been Kulgera but with the roos everywhere it was much smarter to pull off and enjoy the evening under the stars rather than to continue and there be a high probability of hitting one ! We pulled off the road short of Marla at 17:45 for a bush camp - 53 J4 896 600E 6987 378N. Our bush camp was some 90 km south of Marla.

We had just too many Kms to travel after our late start from Coober Pedy, but that didn't matter. Bush camps are just a great way to spend an evening !!

Snags with pepper sauce and mash for dinner.

Cool, crisp starry night prevailed and overnight temps get to just 1 or 2.

Al, was that you snoring .......

Day's total = 321 km

Marla Friday 27 June 2008 Friday 27th JuneMarla to Uluru Speedo start = 149,011 Travelled from our camp south of Marla on the blacktop - now that was something different !!! We'd now completed the Oodnadatta Track.

Saw a few more raptors and plenty of red and grey roos- certainly glad we hadn't continued last night.

Out at the highway, all these clean cars towing vans north and south, not an ounce of dust to be seen on any of them !!

Fuelled up at Marla before heading north again. Turned off onto the old Gunbarrel Hwy for the trip via Mulga Park. Roads were quite good at times then very corrugated at other times - like shake you to bits !!!

Lunch near Victory Downs at 13:10 - 53307 114E 7123 290N. Topped up the fuel from jerry cans just outside Mulga Park homestead at 15:30 (put in 40lts) and then continued through to the Lasseter Hwy. Blacktop all the way to the Rock. A small fuel top up at Curtin Springs to get us to Uluru was a hefty price @ 222 cpl !!!

Reached the Rock (17:20) but missed the sunset.

Overnight at the Voyagers camp ground - good facilities and POWER !

Caught up with the Palmers who were also staying at the camp grounds.

Day's total = 606 km

Uluru Saturday 28 June 2008 Saturday 28th June Uluru Speedo start = 149,617 Early start (6am) and very cold out at the sunrise viewing area. Was very cold but the scene of the rising sun on the rock face was certainly worth it ! Sun finally rose around 7am. Plenty of pics and I'll load some when we get the opportunity.

Back to camp and had brekkie before heading to the airport to collect Carol. She was greeted by the team from SCORPION TOURS however departure from the airport was somewhat delayed as some of her baggage was totally destroyed by the conveyor belt and clothes were in pieces. We arranged the claim details and left to drop everything off at the campsite. The climb of the rock was closed (they close it at every opportunity now !) so we headed out to the Olgas. Lunch at the viewing centre on the way out. Did the "Valley of the Winds" walk. Some terrific scenery again.

Did a quick run back to "sunset strip" for some great sunset pics, and followed that with a loop around the rock in the dusk. Gave us an opportunity to get pics back into the sunset.

Back at camp we headed off to the supermarket to replenish before dinner - some jaffles for tea. Did we mention that the bottle of Chivas had suddenly gone empty !!! Damn !

Again, a cold night with cloudless skies and stars in abundance.

Day's total = 163 km

Uluru Sunday 29 June 2008 Sunday 29th June-Uluru to King Canyon, well that was the plan !

Speedo start = 149,780 Broke camp at 10:40. Topped up fuel and headed off for Kings Canyon.

Herd of brumbies crossed the road in front of us. Passed Mt Conner again and different views this time.

At 13:15 stopped for lunch at "She Oaks" roadside stop and noticed that the stone deflectors on the front of the camper were covered in oil! Hmmmm Inspection revealed that the nearside oil seal on the diff had separated.

Made the call to head back to the Lassater Hwy and head for the Alice but inspection along the way cast doubt on our likelihood of a safe arrival so I headed (read, limped) back to Curtain Springs. We made it and called RACV and AANT.Few beers, more calls, more calls ......

Have been enjoying a few beers whilst waiting for a flat-top, not sure whether we'll end up at Uluru or Alice.

Dinner was in the outdoor thatched eating area - snags, 2 x battered perch and some wine.

Russ and Kerri, by arrangement, have continued on to Kings Canyon and we'll loop around and meet them in the next few days.

22:20 the towie arrived - we'd seen him heading to Alice earlier and waved but he didn't stop !! Unfortunately he wasn't able to accommodate 3 adults, only 2 in the cab so he declined the tow and headed back to Uluru ! Back onto the phone and called RACV and AANT again - need to get 3 people to Alice. RACV reorganised tilt out from Alice but after being despatched we found out that he could only take 2 people also !!! RACV made arrangements for a taxi from Uluru. I said what taxis there ? Never saw one. They checked Black Cabs in Melb and were assured the could organise one - short story, no taxis at Uluru !

Day's total = 339 km

Curtin Springs Monday 30 June 2008 Monday 30th June Curtin Springs to Alice Speedo start = 150,119 Day of adventure to say the least !

Great people at Curtain Springs and comfortable while we organised things.

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Towiie (Stewie) arrived at 4:30 am but hit a roo on the way, not happy Joyce, and then to be told about needing facilities for 3, sorry he could only take two also ! To cut the story short, Al hitched a ride with some plumbers returning to Alice in a road train (he went as the apprentice !) and Carol & I (two people) went with the tow truck, with camper in tow. I'm told that Al learnt quite a lot on the journey to Alice !

Paj on the tray, camper towed well behind. Stopped at Mt Ebenezer roadhouse for a snack along the way.

Reached Alice after a 375 km tow at 12:45. Dropped camper of at McDonald Caravan Park and took Madge the Paj to the Mits dealer (Kittle Mitsubishi). Apparently the seal on the rear axle is a known problem. Might be ready Wednesday in the meantime have a hire car to see some local sites. Pays to have RACV Total Care, all covered, transport from Curtain Springs, the accommodation until we were due to arrive (3 days later) and car hire while waiting for the Paj to be fixed.

Picked up a black Camry and we then did a town exploration, been a while since we've been here and there are now a couple of Malls. Aborigines gather on corners and at the pubs. Slab here, slab there !

I'll load some pics tomorrow, now for fivesees !! This is thirsty work !

Alice Springs Tuesday 1 July 2008 Tuesday 1st July-Alice Springs Speedo start = N/A - Hire Car Spent the early part of the day organising for the tyre to be repaired and doing some repairs to camper (water leak) - just needed a bit of tightening. Have a Camry while the Paj is being fixed. Headed out to the Western MacDonalds and first stop was Stanley Chasm. Were there just on 12pm (the best viewing time) and managed to get some great pics. Feel sorry for the others who went to the other end of the chasm - just no-where near the same impact. We then headed out to Serpentine Gorge. Some water in the rock pools but not a lot. Had lunch then did the climb to the top of the rim. Terrific views, and while the climb up was difficult, it was more so on the way back.

Stopped coming back to Alice to watch a wedgie eating road kill (roo).

Magnificent birds !! And just so large.

Made it back to Alice just on sunset and for the first time there was some cloud in the sky, making it a great sight.

Today was "Territory Day" and earlier in the morning I'd bought a pack of fireworks, only day you can get them there. As the sun set there were bonfires and crackers everywhere across town. They had several fires going in the block next to the caravan park.Kids everywhere.

We went to the "Overlanders Restaurant" for dinner. There's humour in this town, sign out the front says "one hour parking; camels, horses and coaches excepted"! I had the Drover feast ("Drovers Blowout") pea & ham soup with damper, medallions of camel, roo, emu and beef with croc voul-a-vent, main was 250gm rump followed by apple pie and coffee - T-riffic !CSR - garlic prawns and barra, ARS - steak.Sent a card to Gus and Lynne while we were there.Someone also played a bit of the wobble board ! Great night out.

Alice Springs Wednesday 2 July 2008 Wednesday 2nd July - Alice Springs Speedo start = N/A-Hire Car Early start and out to the Desert Park. This was absolutely TERRIFIC but unfortunately we were just a bit late for the "birds of prey" show.

Spent several hours, however, roaming around the park. Had lunch at Desert Park before we headed out to Hermansberg Mission, some 100kms further out. Saw Russ and John Palmer coming into Alice from Palm Valley. We'd catch up with them later.

Hermansberg was quite depressing and dirty really, quite unlike it was when the Lutherans ran it when we last visited there.

Went to the Finke River General Store for an icecream before heading back and came out with a frozen roo tail. All the go out there and the lady in front of me at the register had four, and at $4.50 ea, a real bargain. Mind you, the BO at the register made you cough !! We cooked it on the BBQ for dinner well just joking, but a couple of photos made it worthwhile.

Back in time for some sunset pics from Anzac Hill.

Alice Springs Thursday 3 July 2008 Thursday 3rd July-Alice Springs Speedo start = 150,119 Day of rest, and you both want it and need it !! Picked up the Paj and all was OK. Returned the Camry and then went and did some shopping etc. Saw a dingo at the campsite just at the end of the camp area.

Easy day.

Day's total = 47 km

Alice Springs Friday 4 July 2008 Friday 4th July-Alice Springs Speedo start = 150,166 Day of touring - we went back to the Desert Park for the "Birds of Prey" exhibition - all in the wild and they come in on calls. Really loved this place, hence the second visit.

Went to Simpson's Gap and had lunch before walking into the gap.

Touring around town - Alice Springs School of the Air, Alice Springs Telegraph Station, Royal Flying Doctor Service base. Finished day with another visit to Anzac Hill for the sunset.

Last dinner for Al - went back to the Overlander Steakhouse restaurant for another great night's enjoyment.

Day's total = 76 km

Alice Springs - heading north Saturday 5 July 2008 Saturday 5th July-Alice Springs to Tennant Creek Speedo start = 150,242 Dropped Al off at the airport at 11:05 in his pink Oodnadatta shirt really sorry to see him go. It was great fun having him join us - and gee we got through some scotch !

At 12:50 we stopped at Aileron for lunch and checked out the art gallery. Interesting cricket pitch here - some fence with gate, a pitch and the rest of the ground was just dust.

At 13:45 we headed off along the black top for Attack Creek.

Something unusual, certainly different driving, and we'd be on it for a while now, just about through to Darwin.

Stopped for a drink at 15:15 at Barrow Creek (Telegraph Station) and checked out the old Telegraph Station complimented the one at Alice and the scene of an aboriginal attack.

Stopped in the late afternoon (16:50) at the Devil's Marbles - eggs of the rainbow serpent. The late afternoon shadows being cast made for some great pics.

Continued on to Tennant Creek where we stopped at 18:34 for our overnight stop. Stayed overnight at Tennant Creek rather than bush camping. We were going to bush camp as it had been getting dark and had seen a good spot just off the highway on the way but when I turned in there were some aborigines stripping a car down so we decided that it really wasn't as good a spot after all, and kept going !!

Day's total = 531 km

Devil's Marbles Saturday 5 July 2008 Stopped in the late afternoon for some pics of the Devil's Marbles eggs of the rainbow serpent Continued on to Tennent Creek for overnight

Tennant Creek Sunday 6 July 2008 Sunday 6th July-Tennant Creek to Katherine Speedo start = 150,773 Made an early start - 7:00 on the road. Stopped at Three Ways for a quick photo stop and to see Flynn memorial.As usual, road trains everywhere.

Continued onto Attack Creek (site of aborigine attack) and stopped for breakfast, yes, I said it was an early start but the distances are considerable and you just have to do it ! We left here just on 9:00 to continue the trip north.

Stopped at Elliot at 11:05 for a quick fuel top up.

Reached the Daly Waters Pub at 12:50 for a well earned lunch stop and what an experience that was ! I think we just about all had the burgers !! Terrific to say the least. Luke tried 10 pin bowling out in the street. Been quite a while since I'd been here but the atmosphere has not changed a bit !

Went and drove along the runway of the old Daly Waters airstrip (WW2). Something you don't get to do every day.

Was certainly fun. Checked out the old hanger and the displays inside. On the way out we stopped at Sturt's tree (14:25) and low and behold, there at the base of the tree just sitting on the ground was a geocache, so we did a get and put - took the bottle opener and left a Wallace.

Called into Elsey Cemetery at 16:30 to check the graves. Many of the Elsey Station folk are buried here - Fizzer the mailman, the master and many other. Quite a few large ant hill opposite the cemetery also.

Headed on towards Katherine and the sun was starting to go down. It was a somewhat slow trip and Russ sat in behind a road train for protection, and just as well. Just out of Larrimah a roo decided to hop across the road and came off second best to the road train's bull bar. Didn't need any further convincing to stay where we were in what turned out to become a convey !No-one was prepared to pass and we let the road train set the pace, mind you they do 120 - 130kph !!. Must have been twenty vehicles in line, no-one wanting to pass, everyone wanting the road train to lead.

At 18:20 we stopped at Katherine for fuel and some last minute supplies. Carol got caught at the bottle shop trying to purchase a wine cask, sorry, not after 6pm, only bottles ! And then she had to show photo Id (all purchases get scanned against her). We finally arrived at Katherine Gorge just after dark at 19:35. It was quite scary on the roads in - just waiting for a roo to jump, fortunately, not so. Russ' roo shoo whistles worked, and we just sat in behind him. We were most fortunate and managed to get adjacent powered sites. There were some fires burning on the hills on the way in.

Roos everywhere in the park, even coming into campsites for a bit of food. Carol offered some apple and the roo sat there enjoying it. Most unfortunately, the new and very inviting pool was closed - due to open the next weekend !!!!

Day's total = 681 km

Katherine Gorge Monday 7 July 2008 Monday 7th July-Katherine Speedo start =151,454 Easy day without having to break camp.Went to the Numiluk Information Centre and booked a cruise for 3pm. Went canoeing on the river in the meantime. On the way back I managed to find a croc on a tree branch. We got close enough for some good pics.

Picked up our cruise at 3:00 pm for a cruise of two of the gorges, very spectacular.

We had a roast for dinner ad followed that with a birthday cake - it was Carol's birthday.

Day's total = 0 km-no travel today

Katherine Tuesday 8 July 2008 Tuesday 8th July-Katherine to Surprise Creek Speedo start = 151,454 Somewhat easy start with a 10:00 departure. We went back to Katherine and called in at the hot spa just on the outskirts of town, beautiful warm natural springs. They were great and most refreshing.

We went into Edith Falls at 12:30 where we stopped for lunch although we didn't do the walk all the way in. At 13:15 we headed north for Litchfield.

Stopped at Hayes Creek for some drink and fuel at 14:55.

Continuing onwards we turned off for Litchfield via the Day River Road.

This is a 4WD track and we had some river crossings along the way. At one, we saw a water snake just a metre away, and at one of the others (Reynolds River) after wading the crossing we saw at the other end of the track a sign advising that there were crocs and not to swim - well we didn't do that, but there was some wading !

Continued on to Surprise Creek for overnight camp where we stopped at 17:55 for our overnight camp. Dinner was snags and veges on the BBQ. Day's total = ?? km - did not take readings

Surprise Creek Wednesday 9 July 2008 Wednesday 9th July-Surprise Creek to Buley Rockholes Speedo start = no reading taken !

Up early, before 7:00 am, and went fishing with Luke. Even before I could cast in he had quite a good size sooty grunter (black bream).

Continued to fish but we didn't get anything else, mind you we were totally unprepared and didn't have a bag or anything to remove the lure !

After cleaning the fish a kite swooped and picked up the guts and took them to its nest. It wasn't far away and I followed it to get some great pics of the mother and father at the nest.

We packed up and headed off at 10:15 and went to Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) where we had lunch before walking into the falls and having a swim beneath the water falls in the pool - terrific. Several crossings of the Reynolds River during the afternoon.

Headed on and went to Florence Falls but couldn't get accommodation at either the 4WD or 2WD camping sites so went to Buley Rockholes and to somewhere to camp (that's all you could call it). We made camp at 17:25 before heading to the rockholes. These were terrific, like having a massage or swimming in one of the small current pools.

We cooked Luke's fish in milk and wet paperbark on the hot coals, and it tasted really great. We also did pizzas for dinner as we sat around the fire.

Day's total = ?? km - did not take readings - but not all that far !

Litchfield Thursday 10 July 2008 Thursday 10th July-Buley Rockholes to Darwin Speedo start = no reading taken Started the day with a swim in the rock pools at Buley Rockpools great refreshing start.

Broke camp at 10:15 but found that Russ had a flat so had to change that before departing. The kites were swooping on Luke's leftover fish.

Left the campsite at 10:45 and went into Florence Falls to have a look, most impressive. Whilst at Florence Falls we found a geocache that I had found before we left home and dropped off a travel bug (a quite large caterpillar) that we had found at Woods Point near Marysville.

They cache was an ammo box ! Took a small car from the cache.

At 11:10 we went to the Lost City but the access was closed due to some crocs; but we were able to hike into Tolmer Falls. No swimming here because of bat colonies but great views of the falls and the escarpment.

We went around to Wani Falls where at 13:15 we stopped for lunch before walking in for a refreshing swim - talk about Bourke St !

We got away from Wangi at 15:00.We stopped at "Bad Crossing" at 15:38 where we chatted to a local (his rego on the Toyota was "Big Balls") who told us about a quad bike rider who had been taken by a croc from the water's edge a while earlier. We followed the unmade road around to the main highway (Stuart) via Berry Springs where we stopped for a swim at 16:45. After the swim we aired up for the trip into Darwin.

Arrived at the Petrie's at Marlow Lagoon (friends of Russ & Kerri's - and special thanks for accommodating us all) at 17:30. Encountered our first traffic light in weeks !!!

After setting up camp we lounged around. Killed our first cane toad while setting up ! Carol & Kerri went to the Hen's night (remember that the Chatfields came to Darwin for Kerri's brother's wedding).

Day's total = 566 km-- from Katherine via Litchfield

Darwin (Marlow Lagoon) Friday 11 July 2008 Friday 11th July-Darwin Speedo start = 152,020 Rest day and fix things. Russ took car to have his radiator checked and also dropped off a tyre to be repaired.

Washing etc and then in the afternoon we returned to Berry Springs which is just down the road a few km. Was terrific in the pools.

Came back and we went out to dinner with the Petries to the Happy Garden and then did a night tour of Darwin on the way back Day's total = 21km

Darwin (Marlow Lagoon) Saturday 12 July 2008 Saturday 12th July-Darwin Speedo start = 152,041 Lazy day for us.Chatfields had the wedding.

Bit of shopping at Cassurina - one of the larger shopping centres here (services are all clustered together, similarly sporting facilities).

Did the touristy things and travelled around Darwin seeing the main centre (very quiet on a Saturday afternoon), the Harbour precinct, some of the old government buildings and parks and gardens.Had a coffee in Smith Street.

Day's total = ??km - No readings taken

Darwin (Marlow Lagoon) Sunday 13 July 2008 Saturday 12th July-Darwin Speedo start = 152,041 Lazy day for us. Chatfields had the wedding.

Bit of shopping at Cassurina - one of the larger shopping centres here (services are all clustered together, similarly sporting facilities).

Did the touristy things and travelled around Darwin seeing the main centre (very quiet on a Saturday afternoon), the Harbour precinct, some of the old government buildings and parks and gardens.Had a coffee in Smith Street.

Day's total = ?? km - No readings taken

Darwin (Marlow Lagoon) Monday 14 July 2008 Monday 14th July-Darwin - ‌..

Speedo start = 152,367 Some final reparations before leaving Darwin. Russ had to get the tyre put onto the rim (they couldn't finish it Sat) and also had to get the thermostat fitted.

Unfortunately the weld in the rim failed and had to be re-welded. There was quite a bit of work and in the end the tyre couldn't be picked up till nearly 5pm so we decided to stay another night in Darwin rather than take off.

In the meantime Kerri, Luke and I went to Reidie's lure making factory and saw how lures were made. Of course we purchased a few !These were to be the ones the barra would go for !

For dinner we went to Stokes Wharf and Luke and I did a bit of fishing but without any luck. Dinner on the wharf had definite fish theme (barra etc).

After dinner we did a drive around Darwin for our own "Darwin at night" tour - quite pretty.

Day's total = 45 km

Darwin Tuesday 15 July 2008 Tuesday 15th July-Darwin - Jabiru Speedo start = 152,412 We were packed an on our way at 8:41 and headed south for Jabiru.

Black top all the way.

We stopped at the "Windows on the Wetland" info centre and surveyed the terrific vista of the wetlands. There were a few buffalos new the centre and w got a few pics.You really don't see many at all these days.

We called into Bird Lagoon but alas dry and no birds around.

Continued onto Jabiru where we pitched camp - arriving at 1:30 and then lunch.

We then headed out to Ubirr on the edge of Arnhem Land to view some magnificent rock paintings and to watch the sun go down over Kakadu. I've included a series of this sunset in the Week 4 photo album - was truly moving watching the sun go down from the top of the rocks.

Came back and got some ice and killed more cane toads !! Also saw 2 dingos on the way back to camp.Had a refreshing swim in the pool. Nights are 33 degrees at 8pm, hope this makes you envious !!!!

Day's total = 386km

Jabiru Wednesday 16 July 2008 Wednesday 16th July-Jabiru - Cooinda Speedo start = 152,753 Away early from Jabiru at 9:15 and went into Bawili before reaching Cooinda at 12:30. We were early enough to get a powered site, just as well, as this place was quickly filled !

We had booked an afternoon adventure - Animal Tracks - bush tucker with an aboriginal guide - Patsy Raglar's her name.

The Animal Tracks tour began operating in 2000 on an Aboriginalowned 170 sq km property in the Kakadu National Park called the Buffalo Farm in the Woolwonga Aboriginal Reserve. It provides bush food to Aboriginal people in Kakadu and the safaris fund the farm.

We had a great time finding all sorts of bush tucker under her guidance - freshwater mussels, bush carrots, Savannah palm root, grubs, small fish, water lilies, chestnuts. We also had some sweet green ants as an appetiser. To be on the safe side the tour organisers also provided a couple of barra and magpie geese + a bit of buffalo.

We stopped at the edge of the Gindjala Wetland (Goose Camp), confluence of Nourlangie Creek and the South Alligator River,and made a campfire for dinner. We all pitched in to prepare the feast - lighting fires, plucking ducks. Patsy then looked after the cooking and the "carving". Sean (our driver) made a great damper and some billy tea. Several pics on the Week 4 album. After dinner we did some spear throwing using a woomera.

On the return a water buffalo decided we were unwelcome guests in his environment and had a go at us - we escaped !

It was a really great day and the bush dinner was a terrific experience. People staying next to us did the same trip today but they couldn't find any mussels and so Patsy offered the water chestnuts from the insides (stomach) of the magpie geese - I believe there were not too many takers !!! Different cultures !

Luke won the prize for best child on board the bus, a book by Patsy's husband - including details of how he captured the largest croc in the Territory (in Darwin Museum) - well done Luke - he's also a good mussel finder and duck plucker !

Day's total = 236 km

Cooinda Thursday 17 July 2008 Thursday 17th July-Cooinda Speedo start = 152,809 It was a very early start as we had to be down at the river before 6:45am. We were doing the first cruise of the day on Yellow Waters mind you 4 boats, with around 200 people, all took off at the same time ! We were very lucky to have Trish as out guide, she was indigenous and really knew what was happening, what bird was that, where the crocs were etc etc. The sunrise was terrific and we motored around the lagoon and rivers seeing all the birdlife and at the same time saw few of the reptilian variety. They are very, very cunning creatures and just slide along and then quickly submerge ! You just don't see them and they could be but inches under the water !

Saw many varieties of birds - ducks, pied geese, cormorants, ibis, spoonbills and many, many more. Best of all was a jabiru.

At one stage we were watching a croc slide by and after we had passed I was lucky to get a shot of it attacking a bird on the edge of the river bank! What a noise and commotion !! Luke had been videoing it as well - we were the only ones to capture the event !

Came back and had breakfast before heading out to Nourlangie rock. This is another rock art site in Kakadu. We visited the Anbangbang billabong on the way. Weather was fine and hot but within the confines of the Nourlangie Rock it was nice and comfortable. Also visited some great rock art at the Anbangbang Gallery before going to the lookout for a terrific view towards the escarpment (and Arnhem Land).

Had lunch out there before returning to Cooinda where the pool was most inviting.

We'd organised a 5pm flight over Kakadu in a small plane. Andy was the pilot and took us around much of the Kakadu area, right up to the escarpment and Magela flood plains, over Ranger Uranium mine (we now glow !) and over some of the river systems. We followed the South Alligator River for some time at a low level and with the tide out we saw so many crocs just basking in the later afternoon sun - surely reinforces that you don't go swimming up here anywhere other than the pool !!!

On return we had a "Perth" fivseees.

Tomorrow we head south with a few more detours within Kakadu before coming out onto the Stuart Hwy at Pine Creek.

We head for Mataranka (hot pools without crocs) before heading for the Gulf.

Day's total = 94km

Cooinda Friday 18 July 2008 Friday 18th July-Cooinda - Mataranka Speedo start = 152,903 Left Cooinda and called in at the Cultural Centre for an informative session on Kakadu from around the Cooinda area. We departed at just on 10:00.

We stopped off at Bangbangluk lookout for a terrific view across the escarpments.

We also stopped at Maguk which was a few km off the highway. Very picturesque yet quite a bit of rock hopping. Some plunge pools were there inviting us but ..... (read the signs !!!). We continued on and went into Gimbat Day area where there were day facilities, where the road used to cross the South Alligator River, alas a bridge no more ! Stopped at 14:20 and had lunch here and then departed at 15:10 for the run to Katherine where we arrived just on 18:10. Today was the start of the Katherine Show and many facilities were already closed (no late night shopping up here !). Carol & Kerri managed to make it into Woolies for some last minute supplies.

We headed south as the sun set and kept an eye out for a campsite. In the end we ran all the way down to Mataranka where we arrived at 20:20. We stayed overnight at Mataranka Manor. Was a long day a quite risky driving into the night - not recommended !!! The facilities here were quite good. We also found many cane toads and Luke knew what needed to be done!!!

Day's total = 466 km

Mataranka Saturday 19 July 2008 Saturday 19th July-Mataranka - Roper Bar Speedo start = 153,369 Was a somewhat lazy start after yesterday's long day. Reason for this was that they had barramundi feeding at 9:30. We stayed and watched and watched and watched .... but the water must have been cold as they did not want to do anything ....

We went around to the Mataranka thermal pools at 10:05 where we enjoyed a swim in the lovely warm waters before departing after a coffee at 11:30.

In no time (12:08) we were at the Roper Hwy turnoff, this is the Savannah Way, which takes us across the bottom of the gulf to Normanton. We said goodbye to the Stuart Hwy for the last time.

Just on 13:00 we stopped for lunch at a wayside stop and Carol found a small bat lodged on the front grill, obviously a legacy from the previous night's travelling.Was very hot and somewhat open location.

We continued on after lunch until we came to the Hodgson Station turnoff (Roper Valley Rd) at 14:10 where we came across a shot up Magna wagon. Tyres were OK, keys in the glove box, and it was not torched (usual modus operandi up here). Took all the details - found papers in the car and expected to give them to the police at Roper Bar - not so, just a store there ! The remains of quite a party littered the other side of the corner - cans everywhere !

We continued along, passing through Flying Fox station. They were mustering by chopper in the distance.

At 14:35 we saw the last of the bitumen for quite a while so we deflated our tyres at a wayside stop near Mt Cook.

At 15:35 we reached Roper Bar. Only a store here, and it was like a fort, chain mesh with gates and signs advising NO ALCOHOL. Fuelled up and went and had a look at the famous bar, travelling across and back.

We went to the camping ground because the guide books we have been using indicated you could fish near the boat ramp. There was also evidence of fish scales at the camping ground. We set up camp and went down for a fish, mindful of the crocs, this river being tidal ! Alas, returning to camp at sunset empty handed.

A few cane toads were found and dispatched.We did enjoy a quick game of cane toad golf !

Day's total = 217 km

Roper Bar Sunday 20 July 2008 Sunday 20th July-Roper Bar - Lorella Springs Speedo start = 153,586 Left Roper Bar at just on 9:20 and continued on the Savannah Way. Unmade, with the vegetation always changing.

We entered the Limmen National Park, crossed the Hodgson River and went into the Lomargue Lagoon. What a wetland feast this was, water lilies and birdlife abound.

Continuing on, we crossed the Town River where we stopped at 12:20 for lunch and a fish.You just can't pass these rivers without trying for a fish ! Alas, no success ! We left here at 13:40 and continued along the sometimes good, other times quite rough and corrugated track. Many creek crossings were already dry, others you could see were quickly drying up.

Crossed the Nathan River just on 15:10 and saw a magnificent sea eagle. Was just sitting on the road at the edge of the water.Got a few good pics before it flew off.

The plan was to get a key from the ranger station here and go into the Western Lost City. However it was 15:30 when we arrived and he would not permit us to go in that late in the afternoon ! We'd planned to go to Lorella Springs the next day so made the run in there for our overnight stop for with a view to returning to the do the Lost City the next day.

Along the way we stopped at 16:00 at Butterfly Springs, one of the few places you can safely have a swim. Was refreshing after a day of dust. We left there just on 16:25 to continue onto Lorella.

Lorella Springs is some 30 km off the main road but worth the very bumpy ride in. When we arrived just on 18:00 and quickly set up camp. We quickly headed some 50m to the thermal pool with drinks in hand ! Yes, fivessseees at last !

Man it was great !

Day's total = 285 km

Lorella Springs Monday 21 July 2008 Monday 21st July- Lorella Springs & Lost City Speedo start = 153,871 Started the day with a dip in the thermal pool - great way to start !

Got a bit of fuel for the trip back and forth to the lost city, some 200km round trip. Expensive trip when you top up with 80 ltrs @ $3.00 litre !!!! But it was certainly worth while.We headed out from Lorella at just on 11:00 and got back to the Ranger Station at 12:00.We got the keys (you can only go in with a key from the ranger station and you can't take trailers or vans, just 4WD vehicles) and headed into the Lost City, arriving there for lunch at 13:30.Quite awesome rock formations in the middle of no-where.

We headed back to the Range Station at 15:00 arriving back at the Ranger Station at 16:30.On the way we saw 4 water buffalo, but we kept out distance !We arrived back at Lorrella Springs at 17:44 for campfire cooking (roast in the camp oven & spuds etc in the fire), and did I mention the fiveeesesss again in the thermal pool beforehand !!! Was a great day.

SMS Message - Hot and sunny 34 at 7pm Arrived here after some bone shaking tracks Spent last 2 nights Day's total = 219 km

Borroloola Tuesday 22 July 2008 (This was actually picked up once we got to Borroloola - reference to Lorella Springs) Hot and sunny 34 at 7pm Arrived here after some bone shaking tracks Spent last 2 nights

Lorella Springs Tuesday 22 July 2008 Tuesday 22nd July-Lorella Springs - Redbank Mine Speedo start = 154,090 Made an early start (8:15) as we had some distance to cover today.

We saw a few bustards, savannah birds, this morning. Bit rare.

Today was quite cloudy and we later found out there had been quite a bit of rain around Charleville (we were heading that way). This was part of that system and the temp was also down a bit.

We turned off onto the Carpenteria Hwy at 10:54 to take us to Borroloola. This was to be our first opportunity to report the shot up vehicle to the police. Unfortunately as we drove into Borrolooa I managed to run out of fuel once again, yep, 100 mtrs from the servo, having already past one !!! In the main street - how embarrassing! Anyway, tipped a jerry full in and motored up to the pump !

Went to the police station at 11:30 and reported the vehicle destruction and handed over the papers from the glovebox.

Borroloola wasn't much 30 years ago and not much has changed.Not much in Borroloola other than fuel supplies and a couple of stores and community services. The main store is built so that it can be locked up like a fort - totally enclosed, no windows, heavy steel doors, etc. You want alcohol, you have to provide photo id and it gets scanned!

Wasn't long before we headed out of town (12:35) but at the river crossing we stopped where some people were fishing. Lines were out and this automatically became our lunch stop (12:44 - yes, we'd gone a long way!).

Unfortunately, while you can see the fish, they don't necessarily want to be on a plate !!!! We left empty handed (as usual !).

Drove through some fires burning on either side of the road near the Weeryan River crossing before coming across king brown on the road near Calvert Hill station. We drove around him and he followed us every inch of the way.

We continued on and finally decided to stop near the Redbank mine, where we found an airstrip that made a great camp site. It was 17:40 and we quickly set up at the end of the runway before it got dark. Hmmm =, was that a few drops of rain we felt !

Day's total = 403 km

Redbank Mine Wednesday 23 July 2008 Wednesday 23rd July-Redbank Mine - Adels Grove Speedo start = 154,493 Up early to catch the sunrise at the airstrip. Whilst starting to get breakfast we were greeted with a visit from the mine manager who told us we were trespassing and to get off the strip as he had a plane coming in half an hr.

We quickly packed, without breakfast, under the threat of prosecution !

That was a quick pack and we were on the road by 7:30 ! Had been a nice sunrise too ! Were away in just over half an hour.

Heading for Hells Gate for brekkie. We saw a large wild pig and then some Bush Stone Curlews in the scrubby grasslands before reaching the border. Not much to see there apart from a sign or two. To celebrate our arrival Luke exploded a cracker in the NT, dispatched from QLD - kool. It was just 8 am !

The decision to have brekkie at Hells Gate Roadhouse turned out to be a big mistake ! This place was uninviting. The owner had had his liquor license cancelled and so there was no hospitality ! We were greeted with signs like "nothing available due to cancellation of his liquor licence", poor toilets, no brekkie facilities, not even fuel ! Topped up from jerry cans.

Departed at 10:15, totally unhospitable place and not worthy of staying.He even turned the power off at the camping ground whilst we were there - that caused more grumbles from others camping there !

Headed down the track, and remember, these aren't sealed roads - far from it. The quality out here relies on the weather, amount of traffic and the time since the road was last graded.

We turned off to Kingfisher Camp (KFC - and I was expecting some chicken !) some 70km on these back roads. These roads are on private property and not maintained. Bone jarring, to say the least, but we'd already had far worse.

We arrived at Kingfisher Camp on the Nicholson River at 11:50 and what a real surprise, an oasis in the middle of nowhere.Grassy lawns, good facilities, plenty of room. Unfortunately we were heading for Lawn Hill (Boomijala) and staying here was not an option.

At 12:30, after looking around the riverbank, we continued on through Bowhorn Station (600,000 sq km with brahmas and shorthorns - 7000 head). Along the way we came across some station members having lunch beside the road.

They were about to refuel the chopper to round up some cattle, as someone had broken the cardinal rule - leave gates as you find them !

We stopped for some lunch beside the road at 13:40 while they finished lunch and refuelled the chopper. Great sight watching it get airborn.

After the break we continued to Adels Grove which we reached at 16:30. Was a bit like running on an oily rag when we refuelled as we hadn't got fuel since Borroloola.

Great facilities here but we were heading for Lawn Hill National Park so continued on just a few kms further. We arrived that at 16:45 but found it to be a big disappointment in terms of facilities, so we returned to Adels Grove.

Set up camp and at 17:35 were enjoyed fiveeseess in the correct time zone for a change !!!!

Definitely the correct decision !So much better facilities, hot and cold running water, I even just sat on the floor of the shower and just enjoyed it !!

Day's total = 308 km

Adels Grove Thursday 24 July 2008 Thursday 24th July-Adels Grove Speedo start = 154,801 Went early to the "Riversleigh D" Fossil site some 40 km down the road. This is World Heritage listed.

This was interesting but I did find it difficult to believe a circle of white on some rock was part of the thigh of a prehistoric crocodile ! But that's science. We did see some other great pieces of fossilised legs etc of a giant emu type bird in some other rock. The views from the fossil site were terrific , looking out over what was once the great lake.There were other rock formations - they called them pancake layers and in the pics you'll see why - like stacks of pancakes.

We went back to Lawn Hill gorge.

We went into the Cascades where we had a dip in the rock pools. Yes, bit cooler than Litchfield, but still very nice. The track into the Cascades was uneven and there was evidence of the fast water flows in the wet. GIANT paperbark trees everywhere.Carol graciously offered to hold one up to prevent it from falling !! - see pics.

Had lunch at the day carpark and then headed down to the Indarri Falls. Pleasant stroll and we saw a terrific lizard man was he fast across the rocks ! Lovely swim at the falls, very deep and you simply could not stay under the falls dues to the torrent of water.

After swimming back to the landing we did the long walk over the mountain range back to the carpark. There were a couple of lookout sites on the way back which provided fantastic views of the gorge.

We retuned to Adels Grove for fiveseess, picking up some wood along the way.

Had dinner and sat around the fire before we decided to go and cast a line but in the dark with steep slopes and heavy overhang it was impractical so returned to the camp and a warm fire.

Nights were getting cooler, down to 12 but days still in the mid / high 20s.

Day's total = ?? km - no mileage today, went with Russ

Adels Grove Friday 25 July 2008 Friday 25th July-Adels Grove - Burketown Speedo start = 154,801 Although no success with the fishing, on checking the yabby net before breakfast I found a good sized yabby in the net. The previous morning I had 3 small fish which we let go, but this time it was something different. Into the pot "Mr Craw" went. He was to become part of dinner that night !

Given we'd been to Riversleigh, we rerouted our route and exits back via Law Hill Station encountering some new road works along the way.

Must say this is a massive undertaking with road-train after road-train delivering 4 dog side tipper loads of gravel which was being worked up by graders and roller crews. I think we saw more road-trains come out of the dust in this section of road then at any other time on the trip.

At just on 11:00 we reached Gregory Downs where we had a coffee (at the pub !). Interesting talking to the locals.

They were complaining about the drop in temperature and cold winds coming off some rain out near Charleville to the south, apparently they had frosts the previous morning, mind you while the nights can be cool, daytime temps are towards 30 or a bit more, it was currently 23.

It was 11:30 when we continued on toward Burketown. We were lucky to see a magnificent sea eagle at one of the river crossings. There were frequent river crossings now, some with water, others none.

Coming into a narrowed crossing at one stage we got the fright of our lives as a 3 dog road-train rounded the corner and headed into our floodway ! I had right of way, he had might ! But timing was everything and I was able to get off the road just through the crossing before he entered !

We encountered large numbers of wedgies and kites eating lots of road kill, generally small kangaroos, certainly not the size we had previously been used to.

As we got closer to Burketown we saw many Sarus cranes in the Savannah grasses. There were lots of brolgas to be seen also.

We arrived at Burketown just on 13:30 and were able to get sites at the caravan park where facilities were quite good, albeit dated.As an aside, timing was with us as later in the day this small caravan park in the middle of no-where was completely full !

On our way into town we thought we'd have a counter lunch, alas, lunches finished at 1:20 and there was no negotiation so lunch came from our own supplies ! We returned to the pub later to get some drink - Johnny Walker & Cola were $7.50 each. And if you think that's bad, I had a 8.5kg gas bottle refilled and that was $59 (swap & go at Bunnings at home will cost $29 !)

We spent the afternoon fishing on the river with little success. Mind you, one of the bream I returned to the water was swept up by a sea eagle just metres away from me ! Awesome to see it swoop in and pick up the fish with those claws.

By the time we were ready to return to camp, the sun was setting and we'd caught quite a few bream as well as a large cat fish. As the sun went down the roos ventured to the river bed for a drink. We stayed well away from the edges given this was tidal and subject to crocs !

Day's total = 225 km

Burketown Saturday 26 July 2008 Saturday 26thJuly-Burketown - Normanton Speedo start = 155,026 We left the camping grounds just on 10:15 and headed for a fish down at the Burketown pier. Lot of small bream, with a few keepers and a couple of good salmon (I think that's what they're called up here, but different from home). We fished till just on 13:00 when we headed for Normanton, stopping for a late lunch at Leichardt Falls.

Not much flowing over any falls, just a few remaining rock pools. Have to say that in the wet this area would be impassable but at the same time the water falls would be majestic. It was one thing to be watching and feeding kites but there was something else in one of the rock pools - a 4 metre salty. He disappeared under the water to not be see again ! That's why you just don't swim in creeks or rivers up here. For every one you might see, there's probably been 10 that you haven't seen but who have seen you ! All reinforced by the croc attack on the bird on the river bank we saw at Yellow Waters.

It was 20 to 4 when we left Leichardt Falls but there was not much further to travel however the road conditions deteriorated due to the recent rains (week before).Was quite chopped up. Even so today the temp was a mild 28.

There were lots of black eyed kangaroos, quite little ones - I think they were the Leichardt ones. Certainly plenty of them but none ventured in front of us.

We saw what could only be called "EagleFest 2008" - so many of them at a single a piece of road kill. We also added to our own road kill count with a couple of lorikeets making radiator ornaments, well sort of leaving impressions !

There were also quite a lot of brolgas on this leg of the journey. The colours of the savannah continually changed, be it the colours of the road itself, silver eucalypts, or the grasses. Overall this was pretty flat country.

Stopped to see if a road train driver needed any help. He'd done an intercooler hose but had spares so we pushed on.

We stopped at the Burke & Wills Camp 119; this was their last campsite before heading to the gulf (they actually gave up in the mangroves with out ever actually seeing the gulf).

We arrived at Normanton at 18:20, just before sunset. We stayed at the caravan park and after making camp we headed over the road to the Purple Pub for a counter tea (and watched a bit of the Beddesloe Cup). I had the fisherman's basket whilst CSR had the chicken parma.

Day's total = 256 km

Normanton Sunday 27 July 2008 Sunday 27th July-Normanton to Karumba to Normanton Speedo start = 155,026 Was a lazy start to the day with a hot artesian spa followed by a dip in the pool and a few laps.

Whilst having breakfast it was like a scene from "The Birds" with kites circling overhead. You'd throw a food scrap out and within seconds kites where swooping and picking them up. I tried to hold some food out (wearing a trusty welding glove) to get them to swoop in and take it from the hand but in the end they didn't accept the offerings.

We then proceeded down to the Normanton Station to see the famous Gulflander.

It was then off to Karumba on the gulf itself. Along the way we saw so many flocks of brolgas - terrific !

We arrived at Karumba at 11:45 and went to the pub for a refreshing drink and to get information as to what's where etc. We booked for the evening sunset cruise out on the gulf and at the same time found out some good fishing spots might add that no-one had been getting barra up here as the water had been too cold, given the damn low coming up from Charleville/Winton areas - this was most disappointing for us !

So we went around to a recommended beach which normally has a 11mtr pool just off the beach. Tides were against us, what's new, but we still managed to pick up some bream and trumpeter. Blue skies, light breeze, this was just great.

At 16:30 we packed the gear away and headed back for the sunset cruise. This took us up the Norman River and along the way they placed pieces of pilchard on the front deck. The kites would swoop in and pick up pieces - yes, got a few pics but they were so fast many shots didn't even have the bird in the picture !

They took us up stream to where a croc was still lying sunning himself in the late after noon sun - plenty of pics taken here !

On the return downstream they fed a jabiru and we again got quite a few good pictures.

We then headed out into the gulf and along the way they threw out fish with attracted sea eagles and osprey.

I've now seen a sunset on the gulf and it was fantastic, terrific, great - and more superlatives !!!

For dinner we stopped at "Ashes" - one of those iconic places - and had fish and chips on the veranda. What did you expect on the gulf at Karumba, yep, we had prawns and barra.

We returned to Normanton at 21:20 after a 70km run through roos - have to say I'm now a great believer in "roo shoo" devices. They kept bouncing away as we approached !

Day's total = ?? km - no mileage today, travelled with Russ

Normanton Monday 28 July 2008 Monday 28th July-Normanton - Lake Julius Speedo start = 155,026 On checking the car in preparation for the day I found yet another feather friend on the front of the car !! Into the bin with this one.

We headed down to the Normanton station to ride on the 1930 rail motor (RM60), a petrol AEC engine driving the front wheels, driver double declutching as he changed gears ! Was just terrific. The trip wasn't that long but the experience was so great.

We went to the servo to fill up before leaving. I went and checked one and Russ the other. Over the radio he said that the price of ULP was 168.8 cpl - I asked if he was dyslexic, we haven't seen anything like that for sooooo long. But that was the (Qld) price. Went back to where he was and waited in the queue but when it was my turn to move up, because of the angle of the tank (down at back and the angle of the roadway) I'd run out of petrol (AGAIN !). Could push up a metre and in the end had to put a cup or so from a jerry into the tank to move forward to where the pump's hose would reach !

It was 11:25 when we finally left Normanton and headed for Isa. Roads were sealed and we made good time. We stopped for morning tea at a wayside stop at 11:54 before stopping for lunch at the Burke & Will Roadhouse at 13:55. We had lunch across the road under the trees as they really didn't want you there.

All that cheap petrol was being eaten up by really strong headwinds, yet the sky was bright blue and cloudless and at 3pm the temp was a lovely 27.

We left the main road and headed via a back road to Kajabbi - just to see what was there. Well the map had camping facilities, fuel, toilets etc etc - too good to be true, you bet, more like a scene from Deliverance. I think those two guys on the lounge chairs in front of the hotel must be there, day in, day out !! We didn't stop !

We were heading towards Lake Julius , or there abouts, but in the end it was "there abouts" as the sign near Lake Julius indicated they were "Closed for Maintenance". We ended up stopping at 17:24 and making a bush camp off the road(54 K 380 557E 7777 460N). Had a great fire for the evening and were serenaded all night by mooing cows !!

This stop left us with a short hop the next day into Isa and with the sun setting we were able to enjoy fivesees.

We enjoyed fish for dinner, as caught the previous days, and Kerri did some profitjes (mini pancakes) for desert.

Day's total = 367 km

Lake Julius Tuesday 29 July 2008 Tuesday 29th July-Lake Julius to Mt Isa Speedo start = 155,649 We departed the bush camp at 8:45 and were into Mt Isa just on 10:00. We stayed at the Big4 here and the facilities were great. Some lazy time before we went to the Outback Centre at 1pm to do the underground mine tour. This was a 3 hr underground experience with overalls, boots, had hats and miner's lights. They take you underground in a registered, but not a working mine, down the shaft, on the trains, into tunnels etc. Even had a go at using one of the compressed air drills used to drill holes for explosive charges. You have no idea of (a) the safety considerations, (b) the reinforcement undertaken and the size of the equipment underground. They now blow up football field areas. In reclaiming the area they close off (brick up) and then pump in a cement slurry. The tour leader explained how he filled one area a year or so ago, 200 tonnes of slurry an hour, 48 on 48 off (to let moisture seep out) for 4 months! That's some area being filled !!

After the tour we went up to the look out for a panoramic view of Isa before doing some shopping.

We had more fish tonight in the camp kitchen and after dinner Russ and I went back to the lookout for some night pics.

Tonight the temp is dropping and is down to 13.

Day's total = 61 km

Mt Isa Wednesday 30 July 2008 Wednesday 30th July-Mt Isa - Boulia Speedo start = 155,710 Was a cold morning to start, in fact we expected the temp to drop overnight and had the HWBs out (hot water bottles).

After packing up we left the camping ground at just before 10:00 with the intention of going to the School of the Air. We went there in Alice but with school holidays on there was really nothing to be seen.

Different story here in Isa. There was a guided tour and Luke (being in yr9) was invited into one of the broadcast lessons while the class was in progress. We saw how class material was despatched (Aus Post) and lessons conducted. There was also considerable work on display, including german language and scouting of the air.

After the School of the Air we went to see the underground hospital. This was dug by Mount Isa Mines workers in just 15 weeks during WW2 as a consequence of the Japanese bombing of Darwin, a contingency measure given the importance of Isa to the war efforts. Very interesting and only recently discovered and restored (10 years ago).

Whilst waiting to depart Isa we saw the largest road train yet, a 98 wheeler !!! Yes, I counted them !

We departed Isa at 12:35 and took an alternate route which was bitumen, albeit single lane. At 13:20 we stopped to air up given the roads were sealed and better than expected. Interesting signage - like "Next Overtaking Opportunity 70kms" - that was the nature of this road. We were also fortunate and saw (read, got well off the road for) one road train. With the 3 day driver's strike we were fortunate that there was little traffic.

Just after 14:20 we came across several wedge tailed eagles feasting on some road kill (roo) and managed to get some great pics. These eagles as magnificent birds of prey and watching them feed, take off and fly is a wonderful experience.

At 15:00 we reached Dajarra but with nothing to see, continued on.

A while later near Buckingham Downs Station we came across a wrecked Suzuki Vitara, which one of the teachers at the School of the Air had told us about. The occupants were returning from the Boulia Camel Cup last weekend when they rolled the car (apparently 7 times ! ) whilst trying to get out of the way of a road train! Occupants escaped unharmed and were able to salvage their slab from the car also !When we saw it, the stereo system and speakers as well as the battery had all gone.

The temp, as we travelled along, was a comfortable 26. It has been quite cold down here over the past week or so, similar to on the gulf. We just passed the 10,122kms for the trip. Too scared to work out the fuel consumption and cost, I'll scare myself once we get home !!!

At just on 16:00 we sighted a lone bustard near Peak Creek.

The landscape was changing all the time also, sometime very arid, also very gibberish .

We reached Boulia at 16:55 and were able to tick the Australia Hotel off our list of outback pubs (we have a "Guide to Outback Pubs in Qld").

It was 17:50 when we left Boulia and headed towards Bedourie with a view to bush camping along the way. After seeing a few roos and having the sun start to go down we found a good site beside a river bad (dry of course) about 50 km for Boulia. It was 18:10. We got a nice fire (with lots of good coals) going and Carol prepared a casserole in the camp oven.

The evening sky was cloudless and the stars of the milky way so bright. We had some special entertainment for the evening with some spectacular firework (purchased on Alice for NT Day) and followed that with Darwin footy and then a session of catching marshmallows in your mouth as they are thrown from the other side of the fire (Ron & Luke the culprits !)

Day's total =375 km

Boulia Thursday 31 July 2008 Thursday 31st July-Boulia - Birdsville Speedo start = 156,085 The sun came up just after 7am (back at Ayers Rock/Uluru we were up at 6am to see it come up).

Departed the camp just before 9:00 and just down the road managed to drive into a flock of galahs that took off and then decided to turn across right in front of us. With head down expecting to have a broken windscreen we hit them with thud, thud, thud ‌..There were a lot of dusty spots over the windscreen (unbroken) and the bull bar and grill.

Let's just say that Russ suggested there were a "lot" that were not flying as he passed !!!

As we continued towards Bedourie, at 10am it was a nice 22 degrees.

We stopped at Bedourie at 11:04 and visited the Royal Hotel, a mud brick pub built in the 1880 and one of the longest continuously licensed pubs in Qld. We ticked off another !

On leaving there, just on 12:05, we immediately started to enter sand dune country. Well it started like that but continually changed. Generally flat, sometimes gibber, other times a little bit of Spinifex, but very flat with the road changing colours from reds to orange to white.

Saw a large flock of emus (12) around a waterhole as we reached the Cacoory ruins (13:40). This was one of Sidney Kidman's first properties. We had lunch here and experience our first real attach of flies for the whole trip !!! And the winds were so strong also. Not a very pleasant meal.

We reached Birdsville at 15:10 and went straight to the camping ground and setup camp.

We then went on a bit of a tour of the town, all of 10 mins. Stopped at the info centre, went to the Birdsville Bakery for a coffee then around to the bore (98 - 99 degrees at the head and under 280 psi). Went past the Geothermal power station and cooling towers.

We returned to the camping grounds and had a well earned showed before heading over to the famous Birdsville Hotel for and enjoyable dinner and refreshments (yes, another one ticked off !)

Day's total = 349 km

Birdsville Friday 1 August 2008 Friday 1st August-Birdsville - Jundah Speedo start = 156,434 The overnight temp had dropped considerably and, as per previous experiences (when we did the Simpson), the wind came up during the night. It was a strong and blustery wind, most uncomfortable.

We broke camp and went around to the Birdsville Bakery before going to the Birdsville Working Museum. Unfortunately the next guided session was some time off so we decided not to stay on. We went and filled up and then headed to the Birdsville Hotel for the obligatory photos.

We decided that the time had come to head off for Betoota, stopping for a photo opportunity at the old Royal Hotel.

Heading out of town (10:30) we stopped at the Birdsville Racecourse as in a few weeks time they will be celebrating the event with people from all over Australia (Ray Horton & Peter Van Riel amongst the attendees). In anticipation of the Birdsville Races, we ran our own event and the "maiden's" handicap was run and won by a short half nose !!(subject to a photo and under dispute !)

The road to Betoota was quite bumpy in places due to the rains on 24th June (Birdsville has 83 mm yet Boulia only 8mm !). As a consequence of those rains the surrounding landscape was unbelievably green, something you just do not see ! Travelling along the temp was 24 but the wind was something else - it was certainly a strong cross wind.

We stopped at 11:30 for morning tea (purchases from the Birdsville Bakery). Trying to eat was an experience - gale force winds made it so difficult. It was quite uncomfortable so we continued on at 11:40.

Down the road we experienced an adventuresome emu who wanted to race us.

At 12:48 we passed through Betoota. Whilst this is part of the Birdsville Racing Carnival (having their race meeting a week after the Birdsville race carnival) it is now a ghost town with no facilities, even the old Telstra pay phone box is now unavailable. We continued onwards through the unbelievably green countryside.

Twenty km beyond Betoota we stopped for lunch at Dion's Lookout (54 J496 548E 7168 594N). This has been a memorable view looking out over the channel country of the Diamantina from previous trips up this way and was so once again, the difference this time being the uncomfortable wind. We stopped here for lunch at 13:15, looking out over the Diamantina - just fantastic. It had been nearly 5 years since I had been here and during that time the views from the lookout have been either a background on my computer or a view in the screen savers of the phone). The winds forced us to cut short the views and at 13:35 we continued towards Windorah.

In the car the winds could only be seen blowing out dust away at a 90 degree angle !!! Certainly no problems for following vehicles. The outside temp was a quite pleasant 26, winds likely to be 50 - 60 kmh !!

The road was now sealed. Put a 20lts of fuel in at around 113 km from Windorah. Lot of road works taking place and once complete the road will be terrific - have to say that QLD Roads really build large sections of road.

At 15:00 the temp was still at 29 degrees when we stopped off the road to look at the "hole in the mountain", and yes, it was true, at the top of the mountain there was a hole through which you could see daylight !!!

Continuing on we stopped 15:40 at the "JC Ruins", an old pub which the nearby property owner bought in the 1950s and then torched it so that his station staff couldn't go there !

We finally got to Windorah at 16:35 and stopped at the Western Star Hotel to check the state of the nation (as per the QLD Outback Pubs Guide !) Rated well, actually ! Certainly the XXXX went down VERY WELL. One experience here in Windorah was particularly unusual. On filling up, I'd been smiling and then chatting at the guy at the bench of the servo. It wasn't until I went to pay that I realised he was blind and nearly deaf, but once I gave him the price on the bowser he was able to process the swipe card and complete the whole payment process.

Whilst here, Russ found that his rear windscreen had shattered since lunchtime so we taped it up to prevent it falling out.

We left Windorah at 17:14, heading for Jundah and then Stonehenge. Just outside of town we saw their new solar collector system, 5 arrays of dishes which will be computer controlled to focus the sun. Whilst talking about how fantastic it will be for the town a local came onto the channel and explained that it is expected to open in Sept, that it will produce 13kw per tower and overall save some $400,000 in diesel per year.

The sun was beginning to set and roos were everywhere so we decided to bush camp at Tommy Dodds Creek (54 J693 095E 7230 604N). This turned out to be a terrific site with water in the creek. We stopped at 17:45 and in no time had a camp set up and a great fire going.

Dinner was roo (RMR) and casserole (CSR) followed by scones done in the camp oven. Luke and I put our yabby nets into the creek. The outcomes of this will be reported in the next instalment .......

Day's total = 391 km

Jundah Saturday 2 August 2008 Saturday 2nd August-Jundah - Longreach Speedo start = 156,825 The wind had finally stopped and when the sun rose it was cool but not necessary to wear a jacket or top. Last night's fire didn't take much to restart and we ended up having jaffles for brekkie.

There were lots of budgies flying from tree to tree and a flock of lorikeets also.

We pulled the nets out of the river to find 3 small perch in my net and one larger (keeper) in Luke's net.

We were on the road to Longreach at 9:40 after an easy start.It was a really pleasant and enjoyable start. As it was, our destination for the day, Longreach, was not a long hop. It was 14 degrees when we headed out and getting warmer all the time.

We reached Jundah at 10:20 but nothing open, remember, this was Saturday in outback QLD !!! We continued on to the lookout on the way near "Glenaniff" arriving at 10:50. This looked over the escarpment and, you had to ask yourself, why would anyone want to be elsewhere !! Absolutely terrific !

The descent from the other side of the lookout was incredibly steep.

It was then onto Stonehenge ! Not even similar to the UK version. The only similarity is the name, but this is the site for the Jindalee over-the - horizon radar (controlled now out of Longreach). We stopped at 11:15 at the pub for a coffee and even received a plate of bickies to go with it, such great country hospitality !!

We got away from Stonehenge at 11:40 taking a detour via some channel country to Longreach. This was a terrific sidetrack as we saw what the channel country was really like - flat, lots of little creeks draining to larger ones and so on. You could see the impact of those recent rains - bogged vehicles, rutted tracks, etc etc.

At 14:00 we arrived at Longreach and went to the caravan park to set up and were greeted by Sean and Christina who were returning from their Cape trip (Dave and family were over at the Qantas exhibition).

We caught up with them all and had a drink (sort of fiveseess). They're head off in the morning and we'll stay another day to see the sights of Longreach, mind you, being a Sunday in outback QLD, there's really nothing to see !

Dinner was at the Longreach Club. We rang Jack and Josie to tell them where we were - corner of Galah & Duck Streets (all the streets of town are named after birds).

Day's total = 331 km

Longreach Sunday 3 August 2008 Sunday 3rd August-Longreach Speedo start = 157,156 Got up early and went around to the Stockman's Hall of Fame to get a sunrise photo. After that it was an easy morning and we saw the Ratcliffes and Byrnes off on their journey back to Melbourne.

We went around to the Powerhouse Museum only to find that it didn't open till 2pm. Most unfortunate ! Longreach was all but asleep, nothing open, even the bakery was shut - damn !

We went around to the Qantas Founders Museum. Great displays and we also spent time in the original hanger where they displayed how they actually built some of their first aircraft. Russ and Luke did the 747 tour but having flown on them previously for hours on end, chose not to do that tour. Instead we went over the road to the Stockman's Hall of Fame. This was absolutely fantastic. They have recently refurbished the displays and have done a great job with the different levels and the a/v and interactive displays. One display was about the outback skills of stockman, this is evidence in the rodeo. The current Australian all round champion first won it in 1992 and then from 1995 - 2006 with two exceptions in that period, what sort of horsemanship and bull riding is that !

We went for dinner down to the Longreach RSL. Have to say that the serves were more than generous and that doggie bags were the order of the day, fortunately I had the "entre" serve of the smoked ribs as a main ! That was more than enough !

Had been a great day.

Day's total = ??km - didn't take readings

Longreach Monday 4 August 2008 Monday 4th August-Longreach - Augathella Speedo start = not taken Time to move on again.After breaking camp we went into town to do some shopping at the supermarket before heading out of town at 10:45, heading down the "Matilda Way", the name of the Lansborough Highway. This is the main highway through western QLD. First stop was Illfracrombe, a small township a few km from Longreach itself. We stopped here at 11:15. What a surprise ! Such a pretty little town with some terrific machinery in their historical collection. There was a 1917 kero driven engine, one of only 3 in the world. They also had a great collection of machinery, including lots of road graders.

We continued on to Barcaldine, arriving at 12:25 and a nice 25 degrees, but getting cooler. We continued our "Outback Qld Pubs" investigation (as per the guidebook). The Shakespeare Hotel was our objective and this was achieved ! As with many of the old hotels, this had been rebuilt due to fires, a story typical of many outback hotels, some of which have been burnt down several times and are now build out of stone/cement.

We headed out of Barcaldine at 13:00. There was plenty of road kill, pigs and kangaroos - we also missed a couple of large lizards on the road. We saw a few bustards who ventured close to the road. Hadn't seen these birds for many days since leaving the Savannah regions, certainly none out in the desert regions (Birdsville/Bedourie/Boulia).

Road-trains are not uncommon up here in outback QLD, but as you continue south they generally become smaller.We overtook a 4 dog road-train which was an unusual undertaking. Normally you head to the side of the road and let them pass but to overtake one you need lots of revs and straight road. We did this safely after switching channels on the CB and chatting to the driver. He was heading back to Toowoomba after delivering to Longreach and Cloncurry in his Eagle Star rig, powered by some 520 hp engine.

At just on 14:00 we reached Blackall where we had lunch. Pretty town. We checked out the Barcoo Hotel, again, as per the pub guide, but only ordered a coke - too many kms to travel to do the real pub crawl stuff ! The town has a fossilised tree stump on display in the main street - quite impressive. We did a tour of some back streets of the town on the way out - there was an eagle sculpture made out of scrap metal which was quite impressive, and also an old stream driven bore drill - this was quite unique and most interesting. Interestingly, in these areas, hot water is not an issue.

Towns have artesian bores which bring underground water to the surface at near boiling point. Most towns have to provide cooling towers to provision cool water (but it still smells like sulphur !!!).

We headed onwards at 14:45 down the highway. Next stop was Tambo. Going back many years I'd been broken down on a tour here for some three days with Centralian Tours. We arrived here at just on 16:00 and refuelled. Must say, QLD was great in terms of fuel pricing and I used the cheap pricing to fill with PULP fuels, still much cheaper than anywhere else. Tambo has many historic buildings, including the shire offices, pub, PO. One feature of the town is the teddy bear shop. Big deal you say ! Well they think it's so important, to the extent that there are road signs warning of teddy bear crossings ! Great town theme.

We continued on down the bitumen at 16:25 after refuelling. At 17:40, as the sun was starting to set we bypassed Augathella and continued down the road to find a suitable camping spot. Whilst seeking one, a voice (likely a local scanning the radio) mentioned a place several kms down the road. We found a suitable spot beside a small creek.

There were already a couple of large caravans there (it turned out they had travelled 65 km for the day !). In no time Luke had the fire duties under control and we had our camp all set up. Fivesees started a little late but were most enjoyable. The nights were getting cooler and the fire was great. Only issue with this campsite was the proximity to the road. Whilst well off the road we still had a few passing road trains throughout the evening- pity the kangas who decide to change sides of the road during the night - many, repeat many, just like to choose the wrong time to jump out and bump into road trains, well there's certainly no-one else driving down the road during the pitch black of night !!! I did look at my watch at 3:48 in the morning as one powered through !!!

Day's total = 486 km

Augathella Tuesday 5 August 2008 Tuesday 5th August-Augathella - Nardoo Station (Cunnamulla) Speedo start = 157,642 We had pancakes for brekkie after rekindling the overnight fire, certainly didn't take too much !

We quickly packed up and headed for Charleville where we arrived at 9:40. Checked out the town, again very clean and pretty, and had a coffee at the Heinaman's bakery. Was a pleasant 21 degrees and you could notice the days getting cooler. Had a look around the town and stopped to see the Steiger Vortex rainmaking guns from 1901 (a "meteorologist" conman had convince the council that he could bring rain to the drought forsaken land for $$$$$).

We refuelled and headed out at 11:45. Still on bitumen but with changing vegetation, more scrubby. The main rail line ran parallel to the road.

At 12:20 we managed to delaminate the left rear tyre without blowing the tyre itself. Certainly very lucky as we had been travelling at over 100kph when the tread flapped off. Most fortunate as it could have been quite a serious issue.

As it was I managed to pull over safely and quickly. The delaminated piece of tyre had hit the side of the rear passenger door and the rear quarter section of the guard and the bumper had been smashed about a bit, all in the space of a few seconds. With Russ' help we replaced the tyre with the spare and returned to Charleville. We got there at 13:20 (we had been just 30km out of town, how fortunate we weren't midway to Birdsville !) and went straight to the Goodyear Tyre Centre where they had some Cooper tyres. I bought a pair of the S/T- C (anti chip) for the rear as the other rear tyre was also on its last legs ! We had lunch here courtesy of the bakery whilst the tyres were being replaced.

We departed an hour later with the temp at 21 degrees and headed once again down the road towards Cunnamulla.

Our overnight stay was just short of there at a station called Nardoo. This was a great place with an artesian spa, fishing (unfortunately 20km away), a great camp kitchen and the use of all facilities. They also had good bar facilities.

We had fivesees in the hot spa and then cooked dinner in the camp kitchen. After dinner we enjoyed the warmth of their enormous campfire before turning in.

Day's total = 293 km

Cunnamulla Wednesday 6 August 2008 from Cunnamulla ?= heading south and getting cooler Stayed overnight at Nardoo station Delaminated a rear tyre yesterday near Charleville but OK

Cunnamulla Wednesday 6 August 2008 Wednesday 6th August-Nardoo Station - Louth Speedo start = 157,935 We departed Nardoo just after 9am and headed down the road to Cunnamulla.We arrived here just on 10:00 and had a coffee but certainly nothing to write home about !!! Headed onward at 10:40, the temp was getting cooler and just 17 degrees, but still nice behind the windscreen, still T-shirt and shorts !

At 12:00 we cross the border into NSW. What a let down ! Just a sign and nothing else. Certainly the difference was known when we refuelled a while later.

Saw many emus on this leg as we headed to North Bourke where we crossed the Darling. We got here at 13:25. They have replaced the old bridge which had a raising centre span for the paddle steamers to go under. The old bridge remains (and has had a repaint) but there's now a modern concrete one in parallel. Mind you, would not have been a problem for the paddle steamers as the water level is just so low.As an aside, Bourke use to have an old customs house as well, being the first port of call in NSW on the Darling.

We continued into Bourke and had lunch at Central Park, at 13:40. Had a look around the town and then headed to the Information Centre at 14:30 and see some of the "back O'Bourke" display.

We finally departed Bourke at 15:00 and headed out along the river flats of the Darling towards Wilcannia.All I can say is that you would not want to be on these tracks after some rain ! River silt and the river plains go for miles !

Depressingly grey as far as you can see, and very difficult to drive on as it was very hard to pick the line and potholes in the dusty road surface; and of course these roads were unmade and it had been a long time since a grader had been on them !

We got to a small town called Louth at 16:15. What a surprise this was. Action aplenty. There were people and activity everywhere ! They were here for the Louth Racing Carnival on Saturday. They certainly start these events early. And what was surprising was their preparation. The town (pub and not much else) was full of people, mainly men, the race course was in pristine condition and there were campers and vans everywhere; the locals providing 44 gal bins every few mtrs and piles of firewood.The carnival had $100K prize money.

Albeit that we were now in NSW and no longer following the pubs guide, we ventured into "Sindy's Inn" to see what was happening.Really just another pub with a lot of XXXX and VB going down.

We left Loath at 16:30 and continued along beside the Darling. At 16:45 Russ' RHS tyre on the camper deflated and was shredded (our second casualty in two days !) and we had to fit the spare. After the change-over, it was 17:20 went we resumed. We still had daylight, but the sun setting a bit later now. We saw more and more feral goats on the track and it was interesting to see how they managed to get under the strands of fencing, they actually duck under with their head then squat and push with the rear feet.

We continued south west along the river and at 17:45 finally found a great camping spot right on the river but off the road (55 J294 213E6569 394N). Plenty of wood around and we had a fire quickly going, thanks Luke ! Camp was quickly set up - we get faster and faster these days and there also seems to be more room in the bins !

We threw the yabbie nets in to the river and came back for a BBQ dinner, that was in parallel with fivessees so it was a great night. How many cowboys was that Carol ?

Day's total = 294 km - did not take reading but Nardoo to Bourke

Louth Thursday 7 August 2008 Thursday 7th August-Louth (bush camp on Darling) - Mossgiel Speedo start = no reading No yabbies and no yellow belly from the early morning activities. So what's new ???Have to say it was FREEZING down in the river course.

The wind was blowing quite strongly and coming off what water there was it was really cold.

And then there were these strange grey things in the sky - hadn't seen these things for so long. That forced a quick pack up - no-one likes wet canvas. Wasn't to be but it was cold - 8 degree when I started the car.

We continued along the river road (track) to Tilpa. Lots of roos either side of the road, arriving there at 10:05. Absolutely nothing to see, so we continued on without much delay.

I mentioned the goats yesterday, today we saw great herds - Carmel at Nardoo was telling us they get $40 ea or about $8 kg dressed.

There had been some rain here overnight and a few puddles in the driving tracks but the road wasn't that greasy and we made good time.Our next stop was Wilcannia. This would have to be close to the most depressing place I've ever been to, and to make things worse I once again ran out of fuel within sight of the pump !!!!! (beside the 6th fairway on the way into town). That's pushing things to the limit, must be the third or fourth time - fortunately I'm not on diesel (hey Pete !). A cupful from the jerry got us to the pumps !

Wilcannia is a place where EVERYTHING is behind bars, and I really mean that - armamesh around the supermarket, the servo, private houses, everything. Children who should have been at school were just roaming the street, nothing was open apart from the servo and supermarket - it was a quick exit after fuel and toilet at 12:10.

We headed out along the Barrier Highway, nicely sealed before turning off onto the Cobb Highway, unsealed - strange map grading for an unsealed road.

At 13:25 something strange occurred, precipitation, which necessitated wipers !!!Haven't had to do this the whole trip but as we headed south today the clouds have been getting greyer and greyer and finally they let go.We reached Ivanhoe at 14:15 where we refuelled, did a bit of shopping and had lunch at the coffee shop - something different, pies, sausage rolls - hmmmm hot food, hot coffee. Mind you outside it was freezing, 7 degrees.Quite different to the 30s of a week ago !!!

They had 20 points of rain overnight here and it was quite evident.

From Ivanhoe the road was now sealed. We headed down to Mossgiel, then some 50km further south to Barwonnie Station where we'd arranged to stay the night with friends. We arrived at 15:10 an had afternoon tea with Keith and Olive before going down to the shearer's quarters. As I write this I'm sitting in a nice lounge chair in front of the fire in the shearer's quarters. Outside it's freezing, in here it's lovely !Tomorrow we head for Cobram/Baroogra for our last night. It's all, unfortunately, quickly coming to an end.

Day's total = 545 km (from Bourke)

Mossgiel Friday 8 August 2008 Friday 8th August - Mossgiel - Barooga Speedo start = 158,774 The penultimate leg of our journey. The run was all bitumen which made for fast running, apart from headwinds.

We had an easy morning and it was quite cool, 8 degrees.

Keith came over from the main homestead to see that everything was OK and had enough time to take Luke for a hair raising ride on the quad bike !

The overnight winds had already blown dry the tracks out to the main road, well somewhat ! Unfortunately the road back to Hilston had been closed so we were unable to go and check Russ & Kerri's vineyard lot.

Most unfortunate.

We departed Barwonnie at 10:40 and headed south. Flat and really nothing to see. We stopped at the Booligal Pub, I'd wanted one of those "Booligal Pub" stickers - the pubs you've no idea where they really are ! Got one. It was really a great pub with a lovely warm fire going.

Along the road they have what's called the "Long Paddock", that strip of land beside the road which offers sheep and cattle excellent feed, compared to a few metres further off the road, due to the moisture and subsequent runoff around the bitumen. There were several drovers working the "Long Paddock". Firstly beef and then sheep. We stopped to chat with the drover mustering the sheep. His name was Frank Cox (on a trail bike) and he had just a single dog with him, Dallas, to herd the 2000 sheep. He works the paddock from Hay to Booligal and it takes 3 weeks at a time to move that distance. He'll sell the flock in Sept and then bring in some more. Been doing it for over 30 years. By the way, Frank features in the Toyota ad and is resting on the bulbar - he wanted to know if we recognised him !

At 12:40 we reached Hay and went to the old station which has been restored and is now a museum - they had internment camps around Hay during the War and there is quite a bit about that. When we headed into the main shopping area we came across lots of the cars from the Blacktown to Batemans Bar Variety Bash - this was terrific.

Normally you could do this in 4 hours but they were taking 10 days, this was day 2 and already there had been a write off on day 1 !!! You should have seen the cars (I think they have to be 40 years old) and costumes - see the pictures in the album.

We ended up having lunch beside the river with freezing winds blowing from the south, an ominous sign !! Mind you the temp had risen to 14 degrees - half of what we had enjoyed a week earlier !

We left at 14:00 and reached the ute capital of the world, Denni (Deniliquin), at 15:25. Had a look at some of their "ute sculpture" before continuing on through Finley (16:25) before crossing the Murray at 16:42 - Victoria again !

It was 17:15, and getting dark quickly, when we started to set up camp at the Barooga Golf Club Caravan Park. Good facilities and would have been great in summer, but winter, we were the only campers - quite a few vans but no-one else camping.

We set up the campers, had a shower and headed down to the Sportsman's Club for dinner and to watch some of the opening of the Olympics. Alas, whilst dinner was good and reasonably priced, we had to leave at 22:30 as Luke was under 18. Back to the campers. It was certainly a 3 dog night and the hot bots were quick heated up in the camp kitchen. Hmmmmmmmm, and with a beanie to cover the 10% it was a pleasant night under the DOUBLE DOONA !

Unfortunately our luck could not hold out. 00:35am and the rain started ! Welcome back to Victoria !.

Day's total = 382 km

Barooga Saturday 9 August 2008 Saturday 9th August-Barooga - Melbourne Speedo start = 159,156 This was the last day of our journey, over 13,000 km.

No need to get up too early as the run home was relatively short.

The rain had stopped overnight and the wind continued to blow. As a consequence, by the time we packed up the canvas was pretty dry.

At 9:30 we headed out, around to a friend's place (JRN's) for a coffee before heading south. We left Barooga at 10:45 and finally got away from Cobram at 11:15.

The run down the Goulburn Valley Highway was smooth and uneventful. Certainly the colours had changed dramatically from a day earlier, lush green pasture and many cattle to the acre, previously it may have been 1 to 5 for 50 acres !

We arrived in Shepparton at 11:50, topped and got something to eat so that the run home would be non-stop. It was 12:42 when we headed out on out final leg.

The run down to the Hume and the Hume itself was uneventful and quite boring compared to other legs of our journey.

We took the Craigeburn bypass, headed through Greensborough and finally picked up the Eastern Freeway which took us onto the new Eastlink. Fastest I've ever travelled from Ringwood to Scoresby !

We arrived at Wheelers Hill at 15:04.

Russ and Kerri collected some mail that we had sent through and after a final group photo they headed home to Boronia.

Final speedo reading was 159,440 - initial reading was 146,498 -12,940 but then we had over 480km on a flat-top and 700km around Alice in a hire car, so overall we would have travelled some 14,000km in 48 days. As well, we travelled with Russ in a single vehicle to places like Riversleigh and Karumba, so even more kms but not in our vehicle.

I'll do a postscript to this with some details about how much fuel and how much that all cost and a damage report, that will be interesting ……..have to say, we really didn't have too many issues at the end of the day, we were lucky really.

In closing, special thanks to Carol. Always there to help, terrific companionship, and a great partner - we had fun. Love you.

To Al, thanks for the company for the first couple of weeks. We had some tough tracks to transverse in that time and I trust you enjoyed the experience. It was great having you along. Many thanks. PS: You look great in pink and those red socks just add to the travel uniform of the future !

And to Russ and Kerri and Luke, many thanks for so much. Russ, if it wasn't helping with a jerry or tightening a bolt, checking an electrical fitting, it was ….. you name it. Always there, always assisting me .Thanks mate ever so much.

Kerri was also great company and what can one say about profitjers in the middle of no-where. Terrific. You and Carol made a great and balanced team. And Luke, what can one say, we didn't get the barra but we had some great campfires, fun trying to catch those big ones and what's more, lots of fun along the way. You did well. Great effort from one so young.

Thanks to you all.

Day's total = 284 km Speedo end = 159,440 Overall distance travelled = 12,942 km Total petrol = 3,122 litres costing $5,221 (ahhhhhhh)

Photo Albums Darwin & Across the Gulf June - August 2008 www.offexploring.com/rreed821

Preparation

Packing food

Packing the food - just how much do we need ???

Organising the food into bins

Packing 6 months of food !!! Well it seemed like that

20 June 2008

20 June 2008

Week 1 - Melbourne to Uluru

6am - Preparing to depart

Big koala @ Dadswell Bridge

Crossing into SA

All packed and just about ready to leave

21 June 2008

We cross into SA near Bordertown

21 June 2008

Near SA border 21 June 2008

21 June 2008

Certainly different toilets @ Bordertown 21 June 2008

First night camp at Loxton Camps set up for the first night under canvas 21 June 2008

Birthday cake @ Loxton

Tree of Knowledge - note the

I'm not crossing the road for

21 June 2008

22 June 2008

22 June 2008

Ferry across the Murray @ 22Morgan June 2008

Cornish miner's cottages at Burra 22 June 2008

Copper mine at Burra

Only 21 candles

flood water levels ! on display out The tree has markings showing the different Well we did butoranges the oranges flood levels, check the top level ! the front were plastic !

22 June 2008

First road train we came across atbelt Yunta Taking conveyor rollers from Syd to

Someone has to get into these trucks ! ltrs of diesel Kenworth taking on 1600

22 June 2008

22 June 2008

Heading north from Yunta

Ruins at Frewina

22 June 2008

22 June 2008

Port Hedland

owned by Mathew

Airing down 22 June 2008

Early sunrise - bush camp near

Erudina Our first bush camp. Woolshed Quite a bit of dew after the cold night 22 June 2008

Inside the Erudina woolshed largest inamazing Aust !

This place was

Erudina woolshed - would be something at sheering time 23 June 2008

Looking out from the Erudina woolshed 23 June 2008

Pugilist Lookout - Flinders

Bunyeroo Gorge

23 June 2008

Spectacular Flinders Ranges from 23 Pugilist Lookout June 2008

Ranges Spectacular views of the Flinders Ranges 23 June 2008

23 June 2008

Brachina Gorge - following the geological trail 23 June 2008

Coming through Branchina Gorge 23 June 2008

On the western side of the 23Flinders June 2008

West side of Flinders Ranges

Two views flat ahead, ranges 23 behind June 2008

Rail line at Parachilna

Through the gorges and heading for the north south road. How the country quickly changes 23 June 2008

24 June 2008

Road conditions advisory signs 23 June 2008

23 June 2008

'Feral feast' at Parachilna

Feral feasted !

Roo, camel & emu with bush tomatoes

And what a great feast it was !

23 June 2008

23 June 2008

Giant dragline at Leigh Creek mines 23 June 2008

Friendly (feral) camel beside the road2008 23 June

Sunset on the Birdsville Track 23 June 2008

Ahhhh - the hot spa at Claytons crossing What a wayRiver to finish the day ! Worth the additional distance up the Birdsville Track

Hello - I'm EMU ONE - at Lake Harry 24 June 2008

23 June 2008

Back at Marree, at the start of the Birdsville Track 24 June 2008

Marree - old Ghan loco at the 24station June 2008

Oodnadatta Track sign

Road conditions advisory signs

Oodnadatta Track

24 June 2008

Had only recently been reopened after the rains and boy was it rough !

Oooops - slight digression bogged ontothe Doesn't pay stopOodnadatta and get a photoTrack of the

24 June 2008

24 June 2008

old Ghan rail bridges ! Quickly bogged !

24 June 2008

24 June 2008

Bogged - and this was 6 weeks after the 2008 rains !

24 June

Collecting wood for fire at Lake And a pieceEyre of nail in a tyre !

24 June 2008

24 June 2008

Sculptures at Mutonia Sculpture Park2008 24 June

Campsite at the Mutonia Sculpture Park There for the Solstice party

Mutonia Sculpture Park -

24 June 2008

Alberrie We unfortunately missedCreek the Winter Solstice party of the night before with the burning of the "Mighty Burning Demon" 24 June 2008

More sculpture

Lunch stop at Alberrie Creek

24 June 2008

At the Mutonia Sculpture Park 24 June 2008

The Ghan Hover Bus 24 June 2008

More sculpture - Ghan water

tank Old Ghan water tank with a Chev to look like a dog from a distance

Oodnadatta Track with sleepers fires 24for June 2008

24 June 2008

Hi There ! Heading off on the Oodnadatta Track 24 June 2008

Heading into Lake Eyre 24 June 2008

Sunset heading into Lake Eyre North 24 June 2008

Altitude graph for the day - ex Below OziExplorer sea level at Lake Eyre

Sunrise at Lake Eyre

Dawn at Lake Eyre campsite

25 June 2008

Campsite at dawn, looking back from the rise

24 June 2008

25 June 2008

Al pointing out Lake Eyre

The bar at William Creek

William Creek Hotel

Nice red socks ! A somewhat muddy Lake Eyre after recent rains

He didn't like to serve skinny caps, skinny what ? What's that ?

25 June 2008

25 June 2008

25 June 2008

Rocket launch in Woomera

Dog fence

Passing the 'dog fence' - over 5600 km2008 long 25 June

Restricted My rocket gets launched -zone came all the way just for this

Stretches to the coast

25 June 2008

25 June 2008

Lunch - any shade will do !

Coober Pedy

Zorba's corner - Coober Pedy

25 June 2008

25 June 2008

Quite a gathering of noisy aborigines at the time 26 June 2008

At the Opal Cave - underground View of Coober Pedy from a 'roof shop top'2008 26 June 2008 26 June

Road train heading north 26 June 2008

From 'The Breakaways' lookout near Pedy 26Coober June 2008

Tom's working mine 26 June 2008

Track out of Breakaways Quite incredible soft ochre colours 26 June 2008

Colours of teh Breakaways

Eagle feasting on roo roadkill

WedgeTail Eagle

26 June 2008

26 June 2008

26 June 2008

Pink Roadhouse

Oodnadatta's Pink Roadhouse

Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta

Arriving at the famous Oodnadatta roadhouse

26 June 2008

26 June 2008

26 June 2008

Sunset on the Oodnadatta Track heading torather Marla Stopped for bush camp than playing

Old Gunbarrel Hwy heading to Mulga Parkof road Great and fast piece

26 June 2008

27 June 2008

Mt Conner

1 May 2010

with roos !

One of the three principle rock formations in the area - with Uluru and Olgas 27 June 2008

On the Gunbarrel Hwy 27 June 2008

Sunrise at the rock, from the reverse As we headed to theside 'sunrise strip' 28 June 2008

Sunrise at Uluru

Sunrise at Uluru

Sunrise at Uluru

28 June 2008

How the colours change as the sun come over the horizon

28 June 2008

28 June 2008

Scorpion Tours welcomes Carol A surprised Carol @ Alice Springs Heading to the Olgas The climb was closed so we headed out to 28 airport June 2008

! from "Scorpion Carol greeted by Reed the team Tours" at the airport

the Olgas

28 June 2008

28 June 2008

Looking towards the Olgas

Valley of the Winds

Roo beside track

28 June 2008

Difficult photo to take because of the lighting

28 June 2008

28 June 2008

Sunset at Uluru

Sunset at Uluru

Changing colours of the sunset on Uluru

Note the colour changes

28 June 2008

28 June 2008

Looking back to the Olgas

Sunset at Uluru

28 June 2008

28 June 2008

Sunset at Uluru - just after the sun had2008 set 28 June

Sunset at Uluru - sillouette after 28 sunset June 2008

Week 2 - Uluru to Alice

Sunrise at Uluru

Sunset Uluru

Sunset Uluru

Changing colours of Uluru at sunrise - it was COLD !

29 June 2008

29 June 2008

COLD early morning sunrise at Thecold Rock It was quite - 1 degree

Mt Conner in backround

29 June 2008

Sunset Uluru 29 June 2008

29 June 2008

29 June 2008

Stop at She Oaks wayside stop

for lunch This is where we found oil on the camper, from the diff ! Ooops ! Problems !

Ooops - telltale oil leak 29 June 2008

At Curtin Springs - whilst waiting for towie 29 June 2008

Sunset at Curtin Springs

Dinner in the Bough

29 June 2008

29 June 2008

29 June 2008

Pleasant afternoon at Curtin

Springs - whilst waiting for Life can be rough at times - an enjoyable arvo at Curtain Springs towiewaiting a towie !

29 June 2008

Guard dog to the bar !

Road trains at night calling into Curtain 29 JuneSprings 2008

Sunrise at Curtin Springs

29 June 2008

Heading to Alice on flat top

Co-driver Carol - Stewie driving

Road into Alice

Paj on the tray, camper behind and a couple of jockies in the front seat

30 June 2008

30 June 2008

Heading out to Western

Stanley Chasm

30 June 2008

30 June 2008

30 June 2008

While the Paj MacDonalds was being repaired we had a Camry to travel around - so we didn't miss anything, just done in a different order 30 June 2008

Stanley Chasm Changing colours as the sun angles change 1 July 2008

Colours of Stanley Chasm at 1 midday July 2008

1 July 2008

Stanley Chasm 1 July 2008

Walking along the track 1 July 2008

Rockpool at base of Serpintine Gorge 1 July 2008

Serpintine Gorge - from the lookout at2008 the top 1 July

Serpintine Gorge - from the lookout at2008 the top 1 July

Looking out across the valleys of Western McDonalds 1 July 2008

Rock pressures

Looking west

Alice sunset

Alice sunset

Beautiful colours of the Western McDonalds

1 July 2008

1 July 2008

Alice at dusk

Territory Day - fire works

1 July 2008

1 July 2008

Basket making at the Desert Park 2 July 2008

1 July 2008

1 July 2008

Grevillias

Some roos lounging

Striped Bee-eater

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

Skink

Horney Dragon

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

Western MacDonalds from 2lookout July 2008

Different views

Hermansberg Mission

Hermansberg Mission

2 July 2008

Entry to the the mission

The old Luthheran church

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

Hermansberg Mission

Hermansberg Mission

Black kite circling

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

Mt Gillen

Setting sun

Ron with roo tail

2 July 2008

2 July 2008

Quite a bargain at Finke River General Store - roo tails just $4.50 each !

2 July 2008

3 July 2008

Waiting for the Ghan to come thru 3 Heavitree July 2008 Gap

the Ghan Ghan passing through Heavitree Gap 3 July 2008

the Ghan

Owl at Desert Park

3 July 2008

You could just about touch him !

Buzzard cracking emu egg with stone 4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Whistling Kite

Spinifex snake

Owl

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Horny devil

Kingfisher

Art out of seeds

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

At the visitors centre at Desert Park 4 July 2008

Stuart Desert Pea

Simpson's Gap

Flynn's Grace

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Alice Springs School of the Air

School of the Air

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Original Alice Springs telegraph 4 station July 2008

RFDS base

Plane setup display at RFDS

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Communications room at RFDS base 4 July 2008

Sunset from ANZAC Hill Alice 4Springs July 2008

Alice at dusk

Interesting parking restrictions

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

Final dinner for Al at the

Mixed grill at Overlander Restaurant Last night in Alice

4 July 2008

4 July 2008

This was our Overlander return visit here and was a great feed

Week 3 - Alice to Darwin

Al exits the tent for the last time

At caravan park - last pics !!!

Good byes to Al

5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Carol gives the guy in the Oodnadatta pink shirt a hug "goodbye" 5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Tropic of Capricorn

Wedge Tail eagle at Aileron

5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Wedge Tail eagle

Aileron Man

Barrow Creek pub

5 July 2008

Aileron man overlooking the township

Money insurance on wall allows return travellers to redeam their note for drinks

5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Sign on ground at Barrow Creek Barrow Creek Telegraph Station 5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Rail line to Darwin Railway line as far as the eye can see to the horizon 5 July 2008

Devil's Marbles - eggs of the Rainbow serpent 5 July 2008

Devil's Marbles

Devil's Marbles

5 July 2008

5 July 2008

Overnighter at Tennant Creek

Road trains at Three Ways

In the bar at Three Ways

It was a quick overnight too, on the road again before breakfast !

6 July 2008

Junction of the Stuart and Barkly highways

5 July 2008

6 July 2008

Road train heading north

Early morning breakie stop

Cuppa beside the road

6 July 2008

Left early to beat the traffic !!!

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Ant hills

Oversized road train

Note the size, to compare with some later

Note the dog in middle of Stuart Hwy !!!

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Daly Waters Pub

You see all types of caravans !

Expectations

This is the famous Daly Waters Pub - was our lunch stop

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Inside Daly Waters Pub

Drop bears everywhere

Skittles on the main street

Interesting collections of .....

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Geocache at Sturt's Tree

Daly Waters airstrip

6 July 2008

An old WW2 airstrip

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Daly Waters sign posts - some poor driving 6 July 2008 !

6 July 2008

Run along the runway

Travelling along the Stuart Hwy

Changing ant hills

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Elsey Cemetry

Brahmans beside the road

Graves from "We of the Never Never", Fizzer the mailman, the Master, etc

6 July 2008

Katherine Sat behind the road train all the way, particularly after he hit the roo ! And noone else passed us either. We had a convoy 6 July!!2008

Feeding roos at Katherine Gorge campgrounds 6 July 2008

How tame are these roos Katherine Gorge campgrounds 6 July 2008

6 July 2008

6 July 2008

Into the sun heading to

Canoeing on Katherine Gorge

Croc sunning

Katherine Gorge cruise

7 July 2008

yes, managed to find one

On the boat cruising Nitmiluk, Katherine Gorge.

7 July 2008

7 July 2008

Rock art near Gorge #1

More Rock art

Katherine Gorge cruise

7 July 2008

7 July 2008

7 July 2008

On the gorge cruise

Cruising through the Gorge

7 July 2008

7 July 2008

Different sun angles change the rock colours 7 July 2008

Chopper recovering broken

Great sunset at Katherine Gorge

Sunset at Katherine Gorge

Clouds help make for a terrific sunset

7 July 2008

moter Airlift out for one of the motors from one of the cruise boats 7 July 2008

7 July 2008

Sunset at Katherine Gorge

Celebrating Carol's birthday

Katherine hot springs

7 July 2008

So how many candles was that Carol ? That response was hillarious !

Just out of Katherine township

7 July 2008

8 July 2008

Relative size of some of the termite mounds They are BIG !

Lagoon in Litchfield

Ant hills get bigger & bigger !

8 July 2008

8 July 2008

8 July 2008

River crossing in Litchfield 8 July 2008

Russ making a crossing of teh Reynolds River 8 July 2008

Camp at Surprise Creek A very pleasant evening was had 8 July 2008

Quiet evening

Around the campfire at Surprise Creek 8 July 2008

Black Kite's nest

8 July 2008

Magnetic 'graveyard' at

Large ants hills 9 July 2008

Manetic ant hills - run northsouth 9 July 2008

Grevillias

Beside the ant hills

On the tracks through Litchfield

9 July 2008

9 July 2008

9 July 2008

Litchfield The drive through Litchfield was really interesting and quite enjoyable

9 July 2008

9 July 2008

Reynolds River crossing 9 July 2008

Another crossing of the Reynolds Riding the drawbar through croc River infested We had been paddling waters around in the water 9 July 2008 until we saw the croc sign !!

9 July 2008

Crossing the plains in Litchfield

Litchfield tracks

Cycad palms

9 July 2008

9 July 2008

9 July 2008

Tjaynera Falls - Litchfield

River crossings

One of the many waterfalls in Litchfield - we were able to swim here

12 July 2008

Some vehicles were not water proof us - note river next vehicle following

9 July 2008

Buley Rockhole - early morning swim Water cascading over you made for a refreshing start for the day 10 July 2008

signage

9 July 2008

Florence Falls

Geocache at Florence Falls

10 July 2008

Managed to track this cache down and left a travel bug 10 July 2008

Florence Falls

View over the escarpment

Dragon fly

10 July 2008

10 July 2008

10 July 2008

Wangi Falls - great swim here out t the themselves 10falls July 2008

Lunching at Wangi Falls

Bad Crossing Creek

10 July 2008

Local was telling us that a guy was taken by croc here last year - been on the wrong side of the bike when washing it in the water 10 July 2008

On the road to Darwin

Berry Springs - warm pool

Road works 10 July 2008

Berry Springs - heading to the 16m 11 Julypool 2008

Back on the blacktop on the Cox Peninsula Stopped here for a great swim as we Road heading for the Stuart near Noonamah headed towards Darwin. So refreshing after the drive 10 July 2008 11 July 2008

Carol in the springs 11 July 2008

11 July 2008

WW2 airstrip beside the Stuart One way to advertise car washes - Straus Field - Darwin Located Hwy 28 miles to the south of Darwin, Had to go past several times to get a pic !!!

south of Noonamac, along the highway to Darwin. This airfield was also known as 27 11 July 2008 Mile. Cutout planes beside the old runway

12 July 2008

Administration offices

At the pearl display

12 July 2008

12 July 2008

Green frog - was in my chair !

Green ants

12 July 2008

They tasted very sweet

Customs vessel in Darwin Harbour 12 July 2008

WW2 oil tunnells at Darwin Harbour 12 July 2008

But the termites did not like !!!

13them July 2008

13 July 2008

It can happen !

Beer Can Regatta - Darwin

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

1 May 2010

Creative boats at the Beer Can Regatta Darwin 13 July- 2008

Preparing for the races - Beer can Regatta 13 July 2008

Monster saltys - at Crocodylus Park Old salty and VERY BIG !!!

13 July 2008

You hardly see them ! - at

Crocodylus These beasts can be totallyPark hidden in KNEE deep water !

Sunbaking at Crocodylus Park 13 July 2008

13 July 2008

Out at Crocodylus Park Croc wrestling !

Crocs just sunning themselves and a fight &crocs there Fresh water here Johnson 13 July 2008

Beer Can Regatta - men's thong toss 13 July 2008

At the Mindil Markets

Aboriginal art at the Mindil Markets Bought a painting from this lady

Sunset over Fanny Bay from the Trailer Boat This is a MUST DO Club activity

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

Mindil Markets 13 July 2008

Sun going down

What a great sunset !

Smith St, Darwin

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

13 July 2008

Week 4 - Darwin to Kakadu

Fishing, Darwin's Stokes Wharf

Restaurants at Stokes Wharf

NT Parliment building at night

14 July 2008

Darwin nightlife - Stokes Wharf is a gastronomic mecca

14 July 2008

14 July 2008

Darwin at night

Darwin at night

Windows on the Wetlands

14 July 2008

14 July 2008

Heading towards Kakadu 15 July 2008

Wetlands

Water buffallo

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

Entering Kakadu

South Alligator River

Pool at Jabiru

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

After a long day, this was a most welcome, enjoyable and refreshing time

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

Heading to Ubirr

Heading out ot Ubirr

Aboriginal painintgs at Ubirr

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

Snake in the rocks at Ubirr

More aboriginal rock painintgs

Butterfly

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

Aboriginal painintgs on way to sunset lookout 15 July 2008

Ubirr rock - at the top of the escarpment 15 July 2008

Overlooking the plains at Ubirr

Overlooking the plains at Ubirr

Overlooking the wetland from Ubirr 15 July 2008

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

Fires burning This is done during the dry to clear undergrowth 15 July 2008

Carol at Ubirr

Sunset from Ubirr

15 July 2008

This has to be one of the most impressive experiences of all time - just awesome

Sunset from Ubirr - wow, what it's about 15all July 2008 !

15 July 2008

Sunset from Ubirr

Sunset from Ubirr

Fast setting sun from Ubirr rock

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

15 July 2008

One squashed cane toad !

Small lizard at Jabiru

Turtle at Jabiru

15 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Old buffalo hunting vehicle

Wild cgeese at a lagoon

Wildlife at a lagoon

The start of our "Animal Tracks" adventure

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Searching for fresh water mussels This was one of the activities that

Patsym preparing a red-apple bark (drug) take oxygen Red-apple barkto - without oxygen thefrom fish will rise to surface. lagoon

Netting fish

Fish in the net

Dinner !

16 July 2008

They were certainly on the menu

Carol looking for more fresh water mussels 16 July 2008

culminated in dinner !

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Bush carrot, found by RR We nearly starved ! These were hard to find.

Green sugar ants -squashed up Those green ants were ..... and tasty Did you enjoy them, Carol ?? I'm just so full 16 July 2008 I couldn't eat another one !

16 July 2008

Patsy looking for grubs in the termite 16 Julymound 2008

16 July 2008

One found 16 July 2008

Citronella bush - for keeping off you Just rubinsects in your hands and rub on 16 July 2008

Water buffalo and calves 16 July 2008

Getting terminal root from Savannah palms 16 July 2008

Collecting paperbark for cooking 16dinner July 2008

Galahs in the tree

Plucking pied geese

Someone had to do it !

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Carol plucking pied geese

Fires over the wetlands - at Goose Lagoon 16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Looking back on dinner

preparations At Goose Lagoon, looking back to the dinner campsite 16 July 2008

Flight of geese - at Goose 16Lagoon July 2008

One goose cooking - more scortching 16 to July remove 2008 remaining feathers

Helping to prepare dinner Final cleanup of the down 16 July 2008

Patsy (guide) cutting up the birds16 before cooking July 2008

Cutting up the pied geese for 16cooking July 2008

Geese going on the fire

With a barra also

A lone kite out in the tree at 16sunset July 2008

Sean preparing a damper for 16dinner July 2008

Several kites fight over the remains of the 16 July 2008geese

Kites swooped on the offerings

16 July 2008

Sunset on Goose Lagoon 16 July 2008

Looking back at the dinner site, a full rising 16 moon July 2008

Spear throwing acivities Quite a different experience throwing a spear with a woomera 16 July 2008

16 July 2008

16 July 2008

Dinner being served - barra,

geese, bush bush carrots, fish etc, Barra, pied geese, carrots, grub, small fish, muddamper mussels, terminal palm root, with and billy tea water lily root and damper all washed down 16 July 2008 with billy tea

Gekkos at Jabiru

17 July 2008

Early morning on Yellow Waters 6:00 start for the ealy morning cruise around Yellow Waters - best time to see the birdlife 17 July 2008

16 July 2008

Early morning cruise on Yellow Dawn breaking on Yellow Waters River 17 July 2008 17 July 2008

Egret 17 July 2008

Bird life a plenty

Jabiru

Jabiru

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Also known as the Australian Black-Necked Stork 17 July 2008

Jabiru - our only stork

Birds of Yellow Waters

Spoonbill

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Croc sliding through some water lilies 17 July 2008

Drying one's wings

Short necked egret and ibis

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Croc cruising (before having a go Croc attacking a Sandpiper bird !) Sandpiper to get it on 17 theJuly riverbank Just cruising past the 2008 used to its presence

Having a go at the bird - who jumps 17 Julyhigh 2008 !

17 July 2008

Osprey

Nourlangie

Rock art at Nourlangie

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Rock art at Nourlangie

Rock art at Nourlangie

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Looking towards the Arnhem escarpment 17 July 2008

Nourlangie rocks

The three Lightning Rocks

Kakadu from the air

17 July 2008

Aboriginal dreamtime legends

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

The Arnhem escarpment

Ranger uranium mine

Wetlands

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

Wetlands & river systems of 17Kakadu July 2008

Rivers in Kakadu

In the plane

Did we see some basking crocs !!!!

Carol enjoying the flight

17 July 2008

17 July 2008

After our flight 17 July 2008

Week 5 - Kakadu to Burketown

Gecko on roof at Cooinda

Another gecko - they were everywhere 17 July 2008

Campsite at Cooinda

Danger advise everywhere - Jim Jim Creek 18 July 2008

Alligator River

On the way to Maguk

18 July 2008

18 July 2008

At Maguk (Barramundie Falls) rockpools on 2008 the way in 18 July

At Maguk - waterholes

Signage at Maguk also

18 July 2008

18 July 2008

Rockpools at Magup

Magup Falls

Bangbangluk lookout

There were plenty of fish in here too

18 July 2008

18 July 2008

These were everywhere on the roof of the visitors centre

18 July 2008

17 July 2008

18 July 2008

Bangbangluk lookout

River crossings on the way out of July Kakadu 18 2008

Tracks into Coronation Hill

18 July 2008

Rocky outcrops heading into 18Gimbat July 2008

Changing road surfaces & 18colours July 2008

Changing road surfaces & 18colours July 2008

Russ making one of several river crossing (but not2008 much water !)

18 July

And another crossing ....

River crossing

18 July 2008

18 July 2008

Guratba (Coronation Hill) 18Kakadu July 2008

Tracks were rough and dusty !

Not 18 used this !!!

Julyto 2008

Topping up - has happened to us several 18 Julytimes 2008 !

18 July 2008

Leaving Kakadu

19 July 2008

18 July 2008

Camp setup at Mataranka 19 July 2008

Peacocks at Mataranka

Waterlilies

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

Barra feeding at Mataranka -

they not feed ! .... but We waited and did waited and waited 19 July 2008

Mataranka thermal pool - how nice it 2008 was 19 July

The bar at Mataranka thermal pools 19 July 2008

Start of the Savannah Way across the Gulf 19 July 2008

Also last of the Stuart Hwy

Roadtrains a plenty though

Still old fashioned bores exist

We head left onto the Savannah Way (Roper Hwy) and head for the gulf

And we quickly knew where to drive - right off the road !!

But many are now solar controlled

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

A bat from the grill!

Shot up car on Roper Hwy

Ooops, a bat found stuck in the grill.

Tyres still in tact, hadn't been torched either Obviously from night time run to Mataranka !!! (which is nomal !). On the corner of Roper Hwy and the road to Hodgson Downs 19 July 2008 19 July 2008

Shot up car on Roper Hwy 19 July 2008

Shot up vehicle

Shot up car on Roper Hwy

And evidence of the party

19 July 2008

CSI team investigating !!!

This was on the adjacent corner ! What a party.

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

On the Savannah Way

Brumbies beside the road

19 July 2008

No more bitumen for quite some time

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

Roper Bar store

Old jail at Roper Bar

The Roper River

Locked up like Fort Knox !!

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

Crossing the Roper River at Roper Bar 19 July 2008

Crossing the Bar

Playing cane toad golf !!!

19 July 2008

19 July 2008

Sunrise at Roper Bar

Sunrise at Roper Bar

Fishing at Roper Bar

Whilst fishing - but usual story .....

20 July 2008

Always wary for crocs !!!!

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

On the Savannah Way, ex Roper Bar2008 20 July

Collecting citronella bush

More abandoned vehicles

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Egrets on the lagoon

Egrets on the lagoon

Bird life at the lagoon

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Waterlilies on the Lomargue 20Lagoon July 2008

Brolgas over the lagoon

Waiting to cross a river ford

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Carol enjoying paddling through the 20 river Julycrossing 2008

River crossing

River crossing

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Towns River, and lunch

Kite eating in flight some scraps we out 20 threw July 2008

Black kite circling

Snake on road

This is cattle country

let's just say, sleeping ! That's how we found it !

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Lavae nests covered in dust beside the road 20 July 2008

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Travelling the Savannah Way

Pair of wedgies

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

Majestically sitting on a piece of Burketown Crossing on the Bight wood River 20 July 2008 20 July 2008

Nathan River ranger station 20 July 2008

Changing face of the Savannah Way 20 July 2008

White-bellied sea eagle at Cox River crossing 20 July 2008

Entering the Ranger Station 20 July 2008

In the rock pool at Butterfly

Springs No crocs here, and one of the few places you can safely swim along the way 20 July 2008

Swimming at Butterfly Springs

Countryside burnt

20 July 2008

Controlled burning is common across the top end in the dry

towards evening Man, this was some really rough track in for over 30km

Heading into Lorella Springs

20 July 2008

20 July 2008

The thermal pool at Lorella 20Springs July 2008

Western Lost City

Western Lost City

We had to backtrack to the Nathan River Ranger Station to get the key to access here, and was it ever worth it !

21 July 2008

21 July 2008

Western Lost City

Western Lost City

Western Lost City

21 July 2008

21 July 2008

These rock formations were truely amazing !!!

21 July 2008

4B Share Mk RMR

Western Lost City

Lost City archway

21 July 2008

21 July 2008

21 July 2008

Spider

Floral emblem of NT - Desert Rose 21 July 2008

Water buffalo

21 July 2008

21 July 2008

Dingo at the lagoon on the way back to Springs 21Lorella July 2008

In the thermal pool at Lorella Springs 21 JulyStation 2008

At the camp kitchen fire at Lorella after dinner 21 July 2008

Camp kitchen, office/bar at

Australian Bustard

Tractors across the top

22 July 2008

22 July 2008

Another river crossing near Borroloola 22 July 2008

Common sight all across the top end

Lorella Springs Ended up paying $3.00 litre for fuel (gulp, 80 ltrs) here beause we used up so much backtracking to Western Lost City - but 22 Julyworth 2008it certainly

Tractor rally from WA crossing Not somethingAustralia you find everyday on the

road, let alone in the middle of the outback ! There were about 10 of them 22 July 2008

Sacred site - disused housing estate with out sealed roads Sealed roads the front too ! middle of nowhere 22 July 2008

Burning off 22 July 2008

22 July 2008

Borroloola store Still like a prison ! Reported shot up vehicle, fueled up, few supplies and quick exit inhospitable place !

22 July 2008

Fuel arriving at Borroloola

Original police station (now the Borroloola 22 July museum) 2008

22 July 2008

Russ coming into river crossing

Another river crossing

King brown, and very much alive

22 July 2008

But not enough water to have a fish, by now it was a bit late in the dry season

22 July 2008

22 July 2008

Lizard

22 July 2008

Sunrise at Redbank

Preparing dinner at Redbank

22 July 2008

22 July 2008

At the campfire at Redbank Mine (airstrip) 22 July 2008

Early morning at the end of the

Crossing into QLD from NT

Mastery of relaxation !

22 July 2008

airstrip Camped at the end of the airstrip but were ceremoneously kicked off at 7:30 in the morning - there was a plane coming in !!!!!

July 2008 Didn't23 even get breakfast

23 July 2008

Hellsgate Roadhouse

Hells Gate welcome notice !

Bramahas

This was to be a breakfast stop. No fuel, no supplies, no facilities - all because his liquor license had been cancelled - not a happy 23 July 2008person nor accommodating

23 July 2008

23 July 2008

Kingfisher camp

Red finches

So those signs KFC were not pointing to the chicken shop ! Kingfisher Camp. Great facilities (but alas no fuel !)

23 July 2008

23 July 2008

Nicholson River at Kingfisher 23 Camp July 2008

Old outbuildings at Lawn Hill

On the track

23 July 2008

One or the other of us eats dust !!!! No bitumen out here !!!

Everyone getting out to see the 23 action July 2008

Refueling the chopper for

23 July 2008

mustering Bowhorn Someone had left a-gate open (notStn obeying the rules of the outback) and they had to go and round up the cattle 23 July 2008

Chopper taking off

Lunch stop near the chopper

23 July 2008

23 July 2008

Couple of Bustards 23 July 2008

Passing through the Savannah grasslands 23 July 2008

BIG braham Ideal rodeo stock !!!

23 July 2008

KFC is out here too Just about every gate had a KFC sign !

Heading through Bowhorn Station to Lawn 23 July 2008 Hill

23 July 2008

Looking from the Riversleigh Fossil Site 24 July 2008

Archeologist at the Riversleigh Fossil Site 24 July 2008

Riversleigh fossil centre Stayed at Adels Grove and used this for a base to come out to Riversleigh 24 July 2008

Fossils in the rock

Carol at Riversleigh

Large leg bone fossils of a hugh flightless bird known as "Big Bird" (or Thunderbirds).

2.5 m tall, 250 - 300 kgs. They walked 1 May 2010 around Riversleigh 25m years ago

24 July 2008

Looking back from the top of the Pancake formations mountain Marine limestone stacks formed in an inland 24 July 2008 sea some 520m years ago. Well before the fossils, 25 million years ago 24 July 2008

Collecting fire wood to take back to24 Adels Grove July 2008

Chnagig road colours

Cascades at Lawn Hill

Cascades at Lawn Hill

Interesting bark

24 July 2008

24 July 2008

Terrific texture and colours of the tree trunk

24 July 2008

Carol holding up the paperbark

tree !!!! paperbarks as Came across some massive we walked to the swimming holes at Lawn Hill 24 July 2008

24 July 2008

Water falls at Lawn Hill

Lizard on the walking tracks

Lawn Hill Gorge

24 July 2008

24 July 2008

24 July 2008

Lawn Hill Gorge

Sun casting its shadow as we treked over the 2008 trails at Lawn 24 July Hill

On the walkk from Duwadarri Lookout 24 July 2008

24 July 2008

Walking across the top of the hills Lawn 24at July 2008Hill

Lawn Hill Gorge

Road works on the way back to Adels 24 JulyGrove 2008

Around the campfire at Adels 24 Grove July 2008

24 July 2008

Climbing from the top of the gorge rim 24 July 2008

Yabbie in the net Overnight success 25 July 2008

In the hands of the master !

Wedgetail taking off

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

Road train coming - we're right

offthem thecoming road its !!! get right off When you see the road ! They OWN it !!!

25 July 2008

Road train a coming !!!!

And with that rocks and dust !

25 July 2008

This one was carrying vehicles asJuly well !

25 2008

Pair of wedgetailed eagles in a tree 25 July 2008

Wedgetail in the tree looking at us2008 25 July

Side loader road trains

delivering gravel Major road works on the road out from Adels Grove to Gregory Downs

Talcum powder fine red bull dust 25 July 2008

25 July 2008

Gregory Downs Hotel

Sign at the pub

Another road train !

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

And yet another road train !

Mustering

Mustering - no horses !

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

Wedgie feeding on a roo

The eagle takes off

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

Kerri gets a bream

Bream in the Nicholson at Burketown 25 July 2008

And Luke gets a bream too

Sunset at Burketown

Burketown camp

25 July 2008

26 July 2008

Containers make great accommodation out here 26 July 2008

Brolgas 26 July 2008

Skippy tracks in the mud on the bank the river 26 of July 2008

Birdlife in the wetlands of the Burketown bore 26 July 2008

Burketown bore - boiling water atDepth the surface Drilled 1897. = 702m, flow rate =

Fishing the Nicholson River at Burketown.

We all caught a few fish as evening rolled in

25 July 2008

25 July 2008

180 m3/day, temp = 68c. There used to be a public bath house here till mid 1960s.

Water is26 tooJuly salty2008 for drinking.

Sign at entrance to Burketown 26 July 2008

Week 6 - Normanton to Birdsville

Old machinery down by the Nicholson River 26 July 2008

Broken down road train

Brolgas in flight

26 July 2008

26 July 2008

Crossing Leichardt Falls

Galahs in the trees

Cockies in the trees

26 July 2008

26 July 2008

26 July 2008

Darter drying wings

Burke & Wills Camp 119

Burke & Wills Camp 119

26 July 2008

Last camp before they reached the Gulf, well actually they didn't get there because of the mangroves ! But close enough.

26 July 2008

Blazed tree

Sunset Normanton 26 July 2008

1 May 2010

26 July 2008

Kites above us at breakfast The trees above the campsite were full of kites and they'd swoop on scraps thrown out 27 July 2008

Some idiot trying to feed the swooping kites 27 July 2008

Swooping kites

Brolga

27 July 2008

He could have been taken for a statue, in fact Russ thought such, but he was alive and just standing there on one leg, as 27 July 2008 brolgas do.

Gulflander at the station

A very pretty and clean Normanton station 27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Caravan in carpark Note the tail lights and number plate !

27 July 2008

Water levels at Normanton

Krys the 8.6 mtr croc

When the river rises ... well it has really risen ! Measure on the wall in Normanton.

27 July 2008

Shot in 1956 - now this is some croc !!!

What a monster. A lady shot it in their back yard !!

27 July 2008

Brolga in flight

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Brolgas whilst heading to Karumba 27 July 2008

Pub at Karumba Travelled up to Karumba from Normanton for the day and to do a sunset cruise on the gulf 27 July 2008

Pub at Karumba

Fishing trawler coming into port

Boatramp at Karumba

27 July 2008

Compared to a few years ago there are only a few trawlers operating these days

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Trawlers in the estuary

Swooping kites

Croc basking in the estuary

27 July 2008

Food put out for them at the front of the boat and they'd swoop in and grab it.

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Jabiru

Sea Eagle

Sea eagle soaring

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Sea eagle swooping

Osprey nest on the navigation light 27 July 2008

Carol relaxing as we cruise around

27 July 2008

On the sun set cruise 27 July 2008

Sunset on the Gulf

Sunset on the Gulf

Sunset on the Gulf

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Carol & Kerri on the cruise

At Ashes, Karumba, where we had dinner 27 July 2008

27 July 2008

Purple Pub (Normanton, at 27 night) July 2008

Campsite at Normanton

Purple Pub (Normanton)

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

The Purple Pub in daylight

Purple Pub (Normanton,

Public toilets in Normanton

28 July 2008

carefully read the toilet signs !

28 July 2008

27 July 2008

28 July 2008

RM 60 - 1930s rail motor

Drivers cab of RM60

Crank start

A 45 horsepower Associated Equipment Company (AEC), built Ipswich Railway Workshops 1931 Spark plugs were charged 28lights July were 2008powered by by magneto, generator, and starting was a manual hand crank. With a train of twenty tones all up it consumed 26 litres of benzene per 100 kms

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

RM60 on the tracks

Carol enjoying the ride on RM60

RM60 on the tracks

Old AEC petrol engine, with crash box transmission ! Motored along really well

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

RM60 on the tracks

Boarding the rail motor

Travellers of the RM60

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

The famous Gulflander

Main street Normanton

Leaving Normanton

This was the one we wanted to ride on but it wasn't running on the day

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

Apostle birds in tree

Burke & Wills roadhouse

Where we stopped for lunch opposite the B&W roadhouse

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

Burke & Wills Roadhouse 28 July 2008

Kajabbi Hotel

Changng road conditions as we head to2008 Isa 28 July

Sign to Kajabbi We were certainly looking forward to stopping at the pub after a long drive but .....

28 July 2008

Main street Kajabbi (near Lake 28Julius) July 2008

More from central Kajabbi !

Bush camp past Lake Julius

Bush camp past Lake Julius

Lake Julius was closed so we stopped on the side of the road.

28 July 2008

Sunrise at bush camp past Lake 29 Julius July 2008

Were going to stop for a beer at the pub but the banjos were too loud !!!

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

28 July 2008

Sunrise at our bush camp past Lake Julius 29 July 2008

Changing roads

Mt Isa heros

29 July 2008

29 July 2008

29 July 2008

Sign post at Mt Isa - that way is 29 home July 2008

Sign post at Mt Isa

View of the mines

Overlooking Isa

Dressed for mining

29 July 2008

29 July 2008

29 July 2008

Mt Isa at night

At the School of the Air

Submtted work

29 July 2008

Luke got to go into the booth during the lesson

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

29 July 2008

Submtted work

Cowgirl's car !

The old hospital museum

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Hospital museum

Underground Hospital, Mt Isa

Underground Hospital, Mt Isa

30 July 2008

This was dug by miners in a couple of weeks just after Darwin had been bombed was only rediscovered a few years ago 30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Underground Hospital, Mt Isa

Heading out from Isa

Roadside signage

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Someone had "doctored" this sign but it was just about correct !

30 July 2008

Eagles feeding

Eagles taking off as we approach

Rolled Suzuki

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Returning from the Boulia Camel Cup just a week before, we came across it - no injuries,but apparently the slab was 30 July 2008 retrieved OK

Rolled Suzuki returning form Boulia Cup Apparently rolled 7 tiimes !!

Welcome to Boulia

Brolgas in main steet Boulia

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

The RED Stump

Australian Hotel - Boulia

30 July 2008

Another icon from the Outback Pub Guide

At the bar at the Australia Hotel, 30 Boulia July 2008

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Galahs in the trees

Sunset near Boulia

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

Firework near Boulia

Fireworks at our bush camp note 30 Southern July 2008Cross

our celebration 30 July 2008

Fireworks at bush camp after 30 Boulia July 2008

Darwin footy with Luke 30 July 2008

Around the campfire

While the billy boils ....

Sunrise near Boulia

30 July 2008

30 July 2008

31 July 2008

Sunrise near Boulia

Sunrise near Boulia

Car, after we hit the galahs !

31 July 2008

Our typical camp set up - one each way with kitchens in the middle 31 July 2008

Whole flock of galahs decided to turn the wrong way. There must have been a dozen hit us but nothing broken; a few remained 31 July 2008 on the ground as Russ came along !

Changing tracks

Changing tracks - lot of gibber

Heading for Birdsville

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Tracks into Birdsville

Coming into Bedourie

31 July 2008

Home of the spun steel bedourie camp oven.

Another fromBedourie the Outback Pub Guide

Outside the Royal Hotel,

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Inside the Royal

Bottles on the roof !

Changing roads

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

How the colours change 31 July 2008

Navigator sleeping !

Cacoory Ruins

Cacoory Ruins

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Green vegetation and boggy

Water everywhere

Unique signpost

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Birdsville Bakery

Birdsville Bakery -check the door !

31 sign July 2008

trackthrough after the rains Rains swept this area while we headed up to Darwin a couple of weeks previoulsy 31 July 2008

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Wet roads around Birdsville

Russ checking the depth !

Bore at Birdsville

Still plenty of water around, both on and off the roads

31 July 2008

HOT, HOT, HOT !!! There's also the geothermal power station next door

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Birdsville campsite

Sunset Birdsville

Birdsville Hotel

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Inside the pub, photos result in a donation to the RFDS. We were last here on grandfinal day 2002 31 July 2008

Birdsville Hotel

Birdsville Hotel

Birdsville Hotel

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

31 July 2008

Week 7 - Birdsville to Melbourne

Sunrise at Birdsville 1 August 2008

Beside the pub, opposite the airport at Birdsville 1 August 2008

Strong winds at Birdsville Always the same, blowing a gale !!

1 August 2008

Outside the Birdsville Pub

Old Royal Hotel

Old Royal Hotel

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

Streets around Birdsville

Burke & Wills tree

1 August 2008

Just out of Birdsville. Another camp on their route to the gulf

Birdsville Cup - won by the green thoroughbred 1 August 2008 !

1 August 2008

Carol at the races 1 August 2008

Green growth between the swales 1 August 2008

Road from Birdsville 1 August 2008

Chopped up tracks

Red sand dunes

White roads

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

Heading towards Betoota on the Birdsville Development Road 1 August 2008

Old Betoota pub

View from Deon's Lookout

Mountain with a hole in it

1 August 2008

Overlooking the Channel Country

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

Road making near Windorah

How dry is it here !

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

Pub at Windorah

Carol with the Bundy Bear at 1 Windorah August 2008

We found that Russ had done a rear windscreen (stones bounced back off the camper) and taped it up.

1 August 2008

1 August 2008

Solar collectors at Windorah Solar energy replacing the diesel generators - they'll save over $400k pa 1 August 2008

Sunset after Jundah

Camp beside the creek

The fire rekindled for breakfast

1 August 2008

2 August 2008

2 August 2008

Camp beside the creek

Relaxing & enjoying the early morning fire 2 August 2008

Early morning cuppa by the fire

2 August 2008

View over the valley near 2Stonehege August 2008

2 August 2008

2 August 2008

Stonehenge Hotel Stonehenge was a staging area for the Jundalee over-the-horizon radar.

2 August 2008

Bunk house art at Stonehenge

Sign outside Stonehenge

2 August 2008

2 August 2008

Power poles disappear into the distance 2 August 2008

Chopped up tracks after the

recent rains This is Channel Country with creeks and gullies flowing all over the place

Bramahs 2 August 2008

2 August 2008

3 August 2008

Cattle grids - been a while since weissaw fencing !

How green this area as we approach Longreach

2 August 2008

Sunrise at the Stockman Hall of Fame2008 3 August

Stockman at sunrise 3 August 2008

Big windmill

Sunrise at Longreach

QANTAS Museum

3 August 2008

3 August 2008

This was a terrific display. So much has changed since we first went to the original hanger nealry 30 years ago (as you'd 3 August expect 2008 !)

Qantas DC3

Inside the Qantas hanger

Outside the hanger

3 August 2008

3 August 2008

3 August 2008

707 & 747

Stockman Hall of Fame

3 August 2008

3 August 2008

Inside the Stockman Hall of Fame Fantastic exhibits 3 August 2008

Display in the Stockman Hall of Fame2008 3 August

Inside the Stockman Hall of Fame2008 3 August

Russ enjoying the plate of ribs

Qantas museum at night

Longreach water tower at night

Longreach station

3 August 2008

3 August 2008

4 August 2008

Illfracombe museum

Giant 2 stroke engine

Just 30 km from Longreach, and such an interesting open air museum on the side of the road as you pass through the town 4 August 2008

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

3 August 2008

Passing road trains

Mustering in the long paddock

Mustering in the long paddock

We're on bitumen now so not as dangerous as on the unsealed roads

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

1 May 2010

Pub at Barcaldine

4 August 2008

Mustering 4 August 2008

4 August 2008

Morning refreshments

Fossilised stump at Blackall

Creative sculpture

Bit early for a beer but we continued to check out the outback pubs

Land of the famous Barcoo

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

Old bore sinking machine

Country charm

Emus near Tambo

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

Welcome to Tambo

Trucks running piggy back

Tambo pub

Memories for a few days spent here broken down many years ago !

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

Teddy bears crossing

Tambo Shire offices

Droving

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

4 August 2008

Sunset near Augathella

Sunset near Augathella - boab tree2008 4 August

The billy boils

4 August 2008

Ready to depart from our

5 August 2008

Charleville pub

overnight An off road site southcamp of Augathella.

5 August 2008

4 August 2008

5 August 2008

Cowgirl charriott

Streetscape Charleville

Inside the historic Corones Hotel

5 August 2008

5 August 2008

5 August 2008

Rainmaking guns

Bat makes a bad landing

Changing road ccnditions

5 August 2008

5 August 2008

But all sealed roads now - Landsborough Hwy 5 August 2008

Passing road train

Delaminated tyre

Delaminated tyre

5 August 2008

But the Coopers didn't deflate, fortunately !

Some body damage though where the tread flapped around at 110kms/h before peeling 5 August off 2008

5 August 2008

5 August 2008

Hot tub at Nardoo Station

Sunset at Nardoo

A great way to end the day

5 August 2008

5 August 2008

Sunset at Nardoo

The fire pit at Nardoo

Campsite at Nardoo Station

5 August 2008

6 August 2008

Wonderful overnight station stay 6 August 2008

Outhouse at Cunnamulla

Wall art at Cunnamulla

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

Cunnamulla Fella

Roadside rubbish bin

QLD - NSW Border

6 August 2008

Throw in as you pass by without stopping

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

Road to Bourke from the QLD We'reborder now in NSW 6 August 2008

Flood plains

Bridge at North Bourke

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

One sheep one way, 500 the other2008 !

6 August

6 August 2008

Sheep country

Running down the Darliing River road2008 6 August

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

Pub at Louth

Changing a tyre

Damaged tyre

6 August 2008

Shindy's Inn was buzzing and we couldn't As we headed down along the Darling Russ understand why there'd be so many people. demolished a tyre completely Was the racing carnival just down the road.

6 August 2008 6 August 2008

6 August 2008

Bourke courthouse

6 August 2008

Sunset on the Darling

Setting up camp on the Darling

This was our last bush camp

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

Darling River

Campsite on the Darling

Campsite on the Darling

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

6 August 2008

On the Darling River flats towards Wilcannia 7 August 2008

Typical shops at Wilcannia

All barred up, at Wilcannia

All steel protection, completely fortified

7 August 2008

7 August 2008

Wilcannia Primary school

Out on the plains

Ominous clouds

7 August 2008

7 August 2008

7 August 2008

Raining over the plains after On Ivanhoe the Cobb Hwy

Raining over the plains after Ivanhoe 7 August 2008

Raining over the plains after Ivanhoe 7 August 2008

7 August 2008

There had been some rain !!!

The sheep jump to greet us, just Storm clouds from the shearer's quarters at Barwonnie 7 August 2008

7 August 2008

near Barwonnie is in onBarwonnie the left behind the tower at the PO. Tracks into the property were quite greasy after the rains.

7 August 2008

At the shearer's quarters at Barwoonnie 7 August 2008

Gav's car at Barwonnie

Sleeping setup at Barwonnie

8 August 2008

Drying in the morning before departing 8 August 2008

Setup outside the shearer's quarters 8 August 2008

Barwonnie shearing shed

Drover camp in the Long Paddock 8 August 2008

Beef grazing along the roadside

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

This is the Booligal Pub !

Drover with dogs on bike

Now we know where it is !! And what it looks like

8 August 2008

Droving sheep - really good condition too 8 August 2008

8 August 2008

Frank Cox with Dallas

Hay station/museum

Hay station

Frank featured in a Toyota ad

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

Variety Bash cars

Another Variety Bash entrant

Variety bash entrants

Stopped in Hay for lunch

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

Ute Muster memorial 8Deneliquin August 2008

Ute Muster promo vehicle

8 August 2008

8 August 2008

Variety Bash officials - in a Pajero2008 !

8 August

8 August 2008

Final campsite at Barooga

Final pack up

We're now in Victoria

9 August 2008

Bleak and cold, first views of Melbourne skyline 9 August 2008

The Chatfeld crew

The Reed crew

At home - final group pic

9 August 2008

On the new Eastlink, nearly there !

9 August 2008

9 August 2008

9 August 2008

Decommissioning of Emu One

Alas the time has come, not city friendly !

EMU ONE is decommissioned

15 August 2008

15 August 2008

Messages Darwin & Across the Gulf June - August 2008 www.offexploring.com/rreed821

Cape York Adventurers 22 May 08, 8:37 am

Looks great guys. We should have one up & operating soon, cheers Dave

kerri 26 May 08, 9:53 am

Ruth 20 Jun 08, 1:26 pm

like the start looking for more!!!!!!

Good Luck with your trip, have a great time. Looking forward to your pics Guys!

Bon Voyage Ruth & Paige

Tony Jambu 20 Jun 08, 4:08 pm

Good luck on your trip tomorrow (Sat). Make sure you post lots of photos here. So envious of you all.

Drive safely.

Tony & family

Barry Walker 23 Jun 08, 7:53 am

Hi Ron and Carol Wishing you both a safe and happy trip and that you catch a few Barra.

I look forward to the photos and trip reports Have a great trip Barry

Lynne Jensen 23 Jun 08, 10:35 am

Hi Ron Look forward to more detailed blogs as you move along.

Love Lynne

Terry 23 Jun 08, 7:58 pm

Pickle 24 Jun 08, 10:54 am

Avishai 25 Jun 08, 12:05 am

Barry Walker 26 Jun 08, 1:30 am

Have a great trip - will keep an eye on this site to catch up where you are.

Cheers

Ya lucky b*****! Have a great trip.

Good Day Ron and Friends, Good Luck and please Connect Direct to us.

Hi Ron Went to FWDV meeting last night, meet Carol there, only 2 more days of work for her and she if off to join in.

Sounds like you are having a good time so far getting a few of the experiances under your belt early in the trip, bogged, puncture, winching. I look forward to reading all the new blog entries Have a great trip Barry

Sally 26 Jun 08, 4:26 am

Hi Ron, I'm enjoying seeing your progress. Sounds like you're having a great time. The rocket launch must have been fun!

Sally

Cape York Adventurers 26 Jun 08, 2:30 pm

A shower sounds good, you were beginning to be a bit on the nose !! Can't wait to see a few of your photos to date. At the moment I am looking a bit like your photo in your lounge room packing .

Enjoy your travels, Dave & Monica

Ruth Keyte 26 Jun 08, 3:46 pm

Are you sure these experiences qualify as a holiday? LOL Expensive fuel, expensive bread, flat tyres, winching, dust, Arrrgh!

Just kidding! The soak in the Spa sounds great after a long days journey.

Hope you all travel well, and that the scenery is awesome. Did you take your telescope by the way?

I know space would be at a premium, but the gazing from there would be amazingly clear.

Take Care, Ruth & Paige

Bob 27 Jun 08, 12:33 pm

G'day Ron, Sounds like fun so far. We're envious!

What price Diesel?

Cheers Bob & Norma

Lynne and Garry 30 Jun 08, 10:35 am

Barry Walker 30 Jun 08, 1:15 pm

Couldn't you have put Al in the back seat of the Pajero?

Hi Ron & Carol I gather from todays blog that Carol has made it and has over loaded the rig causing the rear seal to go. :-) Keep you chin up at least you are on holidays while we are being blown away and freezing out butts off down here having to work.

Keep up the great work with the blog it's great to hear whats happening as you progress across the country. (Big Place Oz) Keep safe and well Barry

Peter & Gail van Riel 2 Jul 08, 1:47 pm

Hi Ron & Carol, Also heard about your seal going - at least it was near repair facilities. Photos & stories so far look & sound like you're having a ball.

Enjoy your hol's Pete & gail

Barry Walker 4 Jul 08, 12:08 am

Hi Ron Carol Glade to hear the the repairs are all going OK. Diesel is $185.9 and Unleaded $169.9 so you aren't paying much more than us so just keep poring it in the tank and enjoy the holiday.

Off to work I go, cold and fogy this morning.

I look forward to the next report.

Regards and have a great time Barry

Rob Hailey 4 Jul 08, 2:48 pm

Ron You've not arrived yet and already it's as memorable as any Reed trip :-) Just returned from a little jaunt to Mungo: fuel prices varied by as much as 10cpl within a town so pays to look around.

Keep up the great blog Rob

Ruth Keyte 7 Jul 08, 12:43 pm

alan 9 Jul 08, 10:37 am

Love the pic today Ron, in Alice.

Hell of a tan there mate!

Hi Ron and Carol, Its good to see you have most of your photos up now . Carol have you tried the Alice Springs ranger's suggestion in the desert Al

alan 14 Jul 08, 8:56 am

tracy 15 Jul 08, 12:39 am

Ron Your photos get better and better

Love the croc pics Ron...felt the goosebumps sitting in my office chair.

Green ants- I'd heard they tasted like sherbet Thanks for the pics. what a great trip.

Trace

Ruth Keyte 17 Jul 08, 3:19 pm

Whilst you guys are getting about in shorts, Paige is heading off on her 8 week adventure, where I am told the daily average temp is 6 degrees! Love to be North catching some rays, we are FREEZING down here.

Love the photos!

Take care, Ruth

alan 17 Jul 08, 11:36 pm

Ron I am waiting to see a photo of you and the Barra you have caught!!!!!

Barry Walker 22 Jul 08, 11:17 am

Hi Ron, Carol We are enjoying the photos, they are great Ron. Sounds like the traveling is going smoother now. I wouldn't come back yet it is still cold every day here. No club news that I know of to report.

I went on the Tree Planting weekend at Broadford, not a very big roll up as it was rather wet and cold, still got about 5000 trees planted so that was good. Good turn out from our Club.

We wish you all the best for the rest of the trip Barry

Terry 27 Jul 08, 12:01 am

Howdy Folks The pictures are great even the two beached whales in the water at Buley falls. Not a good sight with a coffee first thing in the morning. Enjoy the commentary as well.

All going well here, a bit of excitement in the family as Gloria's sister had a baby girl a few weeks back. The first grandchild in the family so plenty of excitement.

Football is not so good. Bottom line you know it is a bad year when you loose to Carlton twice in the same year - no matter where you finish on the ladder. Went to the Kanga's game as a guest of SAP - pies looked pretty ordinary.

Nice bit of rain falling here and good old Gisborne keeps are toes frozen with morning temps around 0 - 2 degrees on a regular basis. Least it is a good excuse to keep the wood heater going at night and overnight.

Take care.

John & Berenice 28 Jul 08, 1:00 pm

Hi Ron & Carol, We are enjoying your emails, almost as good as being with you.

We went to the Tank Museum at Puckapunyal with the Millers and others yesterday. An amazing display, well worth visiting.

Its very cool here so we are escaping back up to the Gold Coast again next week.

Keep safe John & Berenice

alan 29 Jul 08, 11:38 pm

Hi Guys Its obviously easier travelling down than up and all too soon you will be home again and I bet you are planning your next adventure already

Barry Walker 6 Aug 08, 7:40 am

Hi Ron Carol We are enjoying your ongoing messages and photos, weather down here in Melbourne is getting a little better after the cold snap we had for a few weeks.

Looking forward to catching up when you get back.

Have a safe a trouble free trip on the way back.

All our best Barry & Cathy

Dave & Monica 6 Aug 08, 2:12 pm

Hi Guys, Not long to go now & let me tell you it is b..... cold down here! Had a frosty morning at Cobram this morning. Don't suppose you saw Fred & co going through Charleville or Blackall. We caught up for a chat while he was standing in the middle of Charleville. Bad luck with the tyre but you will be home soon as I am & central heating also! Have fun, Dave

Brian Sutton 18 Aug 08, 10:01 pm

Ron & Carol, I think we enjoyed your trip as much as you did, thanks for all the photos & story felt like we were with you all the way,brought back many memories Brian & Christine Sutton