FOLK by Rosie Sparks

DEC13

style chameleon [02] the forgotten age [10] necessary accessories [12] porn on the brain [20] face value [22] As women, we have an inner strength that each of us can relate to and empathise with, regardless of age, race or class. This monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s FOLK continues to strive for inclusivity and explores the interest of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s women: flexible visual identities, ageism in fashion and body conciousness.

STY LE CHA MEL EON

THE FASHION OPPORTUNIST

THE

FORGOTTEN AGE What does beauty entail? Top Family Fortunes asnwers would include confidence, lovely eyes and a slim build, but another likely, more debatable, answer would be ‘youth’. Says Rosie Sparks

ashion and media industries orbit the easily influenced and highly powerful youth culture. Advertising and pop music sing out to young generations to enthuse their exciting, carefree existence. These years are often said to be the best times of your life, and we appear to reach an age for these experiences to be considered by society as unsuitable. Conformity pressures are associated with adolescence, but older women may certainly be victim to conventionality, as society often gives them frumpy housewife stereotypes. Messages in the media drive the idea that physical ageing is undesirable and almost curable. Younger models present fashion trends and TV adverts include older female models often in domestic settings: presenting germ-ridding products, catering for the family and having weight and appearance concerns. Many women, however, continue to celebrate their individually and visual personalities with fashion. 78-year old New York boutiqueowner Lynn Dell truly inspires. Her flamboyant style is a frequent feature on Advanced Style, a blog that celebrates mature flair. Lynn has a colourful perspective on this part of her life and motivates her clients each day with her motto ‘dress for the theatre of your life!’ She encourages fashion risks, ‘making mistakes is the best thing! I am lucky enough to have the day to dress how I like, so I’ll keep going until I can’t stop!’

When women come into Lynn’s extravagant boutique, the team

inspires clients to find something wonderful. ‘We get people who say ‘I’m too fat, I’m too old…’ but we tell them to try something new… everything doesn’t have to match, just be creative!’ She considers women aged 40+ through the eyes of the industry, ‘[society] ignores people over a certain age. We have the taste, but every young girl wants to look like her friend Suzie with long hair.’ Lynn believes these women have potential to explore their inner glamour. ‘They are neglected by themselves. We can’t focus on ‘what I don’t have, what I don’t look like’. You make life fun and enjoyable, as so many things aren’t fun!’ Lynn’s beauty essential is for all ages: ‘Once you put a smile on your face, everything looks good!’ Her belief in women is touching and her poise, radiance and enthusiasm for life and style shone through her words. Channel 4 aired a hit documentary Fabulous Fashionistas in September, and was a stark contrast to previous productions of 10 Years Younger and How Not to Get Old. A group of 6 women, with the average age of 80, exhibit their infinitely energetic, optimistic and spritely outlooks on life. Each woman’s ethos manifests in colour, independence, and fearlessness. Gillian still loves to wear mini skirts, and although the public may think ‘who does she think she is?’ she replies ‘I don’t give a toss!’ and maintains her performance arts career aged 87. When shopping with my 53-year old mother Christine, she leaves each shop, feeling ‘anxious, depressed and frustrated’. She states she feels most confident when feeling she looks nice, but this is problematic. ‘It’s hard to find the styles to suit my body as it’s changing, but there’s also not enough

styles for older women who don’t feel old!’ For the highstreet to deliver to these women, both entities must be open and engaging with one another. Drapers claims 45% of 45-54 years olds prefer researching purchases in store than online, compared to 38% of 18-24 year olds. If this is the case, why are current retail environments accustomed to marketing towards, and serving younger consumers? A recent survey for FOLK magazine revealed over half of the British women aged 40-60 asked, a reassuring 73% expressed they own a personal style. 90%, however, claimed their fashion choices to be ‘safe’ purchases. Safety is not necessarily negative – attraction to familiarity and wishing for comforts are natural human traits, but it may be the limited encouragement and confidence to try something new that is socially influenced. Credibly, over half of these women expressed feeling of neglect and being unvalued by the fashion industry. All respondents stated they often question if clothes are ‘too young’ for them. An assumption that

mature women do not and cannot remain part of the fashion scene may restrain their self-assurance and dampen the acceptance of aging in this industry. With all respondents investing in anti-ageing cosmetics, hair dyeing and vitamin supplements, it may indicate that they, and society, favour a youthful look and believe signs of growing older should be postponed, or eliminated all together. Conclusively, 63% of these women admitted to feeling pressured from the media and fashion industry to remain youthful looking.

“DRESS FOR THE THEATRE OF YOUR LIFE!” Fortunately, high fashion is beginning to embrace the wrinkles and lead the way with older models. Models commonly retire before the age of 30, but Daphne Selfe, 82, and Isabella Rossellini, 60, have recently graced advertising campaigns for Dolce and Gabbana and Bulgari, respectively. Jacquie Tajah Murdock, 82, modeling for Lanvin, claimed ‘it wasn’t until I was in my 40s that I began to see my beauty.’ This year, M&S celebrated the beauty found in all ages of women, in ads featuring Ellie Goulding, Tracey Emin and Grace Coddington, amongst others, in a presentation of timeless style and female unity. Yves Saint Laurent famously said ‘fashion fades, style is eternal’. With age comes maturity, and the knowledge of one’s self. Older women must deem their individual characters as perpetual, and proudly present this by fashion and active lifestyles. Insisting to dress down after the age of 50 is absurd. No woman should be prescribed the dowdy, shapeless option, rather than taking her own inspired initiative to make a truly desired decision. Believe ‘why the hell not, I may never have the chance again!’ because this may be the ticket to eternal vitality and passionate promotion of the self for years to come.

necessary accessories

colour focus

brights on black

winter warmers

PORN Channel 4’s recent documentary Porn on The Brain aimed to share light on the neurological effects of this mysterious media, but the darker side of industry was soon realised. By Rosie Sparks PORN is a difficult subject to approach. For a teen, it can be seen as an extremely private, secretive activity, but can also be openly celebrated amongst groups of boys; almost boasting about their most recent virtual encounters with the hottest girls they have ever laid eyes on. For parents, it could be an extremely uncomfortable subject, assuming their angels have never had a sexually curious moment in their lives or go to great lengths to censor the content coming into their houses via TV and the Internet. There is no doubt that porn is part of society today. During a time where it is accessed instantly, for free, and with unlimited periods of time to view, it is probable that many of us are watching porn. Personally, it has often been openly communicated to me between friends that are boys and my more kinky girl friends. How much thought have we given this trade and how much social damage, if any, can this underground industry cause? During Porn on The Brain, the subject changed from an

brain

interesting scientific perspective to showing the more sinister, ugly and demeaning part of this culture. Since the industry had started flowing into homes by VHS and top shelf magazines, the British public has become more exposed to such images, creating an impression of normality and immunity to bare skin and seductive poses.

‘The humour of viewing something a little bit naughty had now turned into an infinite archive of categories and content.’ Throughout the show, it became apparent that the pure fun and carefree attitude towards sex had now been diminished. From a fast-pace and fast-access nature of sex media, the humour of viewing something ‘a little bit naughty’ had now turned into an infinite archive of categories and content. Extreme experimentation has been taken too far, and it is far too easy to be clicked on. I do not believe children can simply stumble upon pornographic content, but it is the indirect access

to the dark, sadomasochistic, and sometimes incestuous content, that is so scary. Demonstrated in the documentary, just a few clicks from a normal porn site can take you to illegal ones, illustrating, and perhaps encouraging, sexually deviant thoughts and behaviour. The incredibly graphic nature of the images now produced to satisfy the needs of addicted viewers, or those merely looking for inspiration, was shocking. If that is what my husband could be seeking for bedroom inspiration, I would be very worried. As described by Porn on The Brain, the videos today are a constant show of male domination and female humiliation. The fun, silly and somewhat innocent-natured images have been removed, and as its replacement- disposable material that depicts angry, unfaithful and ugly intercourse, that is rapidly becoming an unhealthy benchmark for a modern sexual experience.

FACE VALUE

When wearing identical uniforms, the Northstars Cheerleading Squad accept a certain degree of anonymity as they perform as an impeccibly presented unit. When this safety mask is removed and self reflection is encouraged, each member is quick to point out their most liked and disliked features.

SOPHIE WRIGHT : CAPTAIN, FLYER

JEN GEORGE : FRONTSPOT

FAYE THOMAS : BACKSPOT

CHLOE SYRON : BASE

ROSIE SPARKS 2013