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INTOTHE A seo expedition to the islonds of northern Norwoy is on exhiloroting odventure, writes RODERICK El ME, e cautiously exit the inf latable boat. Ten at a time, we land on the pebbly beach, our guides already
well ahead of us, scouting for sightings of the world's largest terrestrial carnivore. The island of Spitsbergen. north of Norway, is one of just a handful of the remaining polar bear hot spots in the world. With a world population of this majestic mammal possibly as low as 20,000, there is a real urgency among adventure travellers to this creature in its native habitat.
see
the animal," says Sue Werner, deputy expedition leader of Aurora.
Clutching loaded rifles, our guides are 100 metres ahead of us making sure we don't surprise any unseen or sleeping beasts.
"lf a cur.ious animal approaches within 200 metres or so we f ire a f lare with a loud bang, but of course we never land if a bear
Regulations require guides to carry loaded rif les and f lare guns, but in over a decade of operation, Aurora's expedition staff have only ever fired two warning shots; a testament
is
sighted beforehand." Our exped ition, Aurora's circumnavigation of Spitsbergen, is an outstanding success with almost 20 sightings so far; including three mother bears and cubs feeding on the last morsels of a whale carcass. The wildlife sightings extend to Arctic fox,
to
good planning, careful observation and prompt action. "lf we sight a bear while we're on land, our first call isto get everyone back on the Zodiacs Iinf latable boats] while the guides monitor
walrus, reindeer, seals and a myriad seabirds wheeling and squealing overhead. On one occasion, we entertain several thousand tiny guillemots gathered around us with whistles. lt's hilarious when the entire throng whistles back on cue. Humpback, minke. fin and even blue whalel
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