Canadian Jeweller - February 2012 Issu by Rive Gauche Media

th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

F E B R U A RY 2 0 1 2

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

CMCA

PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25

AUDITED

NEW SECTION

INTERNATIONAL MARKET: INDIA

DIAMONDS

Canada’s love for them is on the rise

Strong & Successful

Susan Cartwright-Coates, DiGem

PLUS: A MONTH IN, WHAT TO EXPECT IN 2012 ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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24 Gold Group Ltd.

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 88.

Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca Made in Canada with Canadian gold

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New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

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For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 88.

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

1/26/12 12:49:51 PM

Established 1879 FEBRUARY 2012 • vol. 133, no. 1

C A N A DA’ S #1 J E W E L L E RY M AG A Z I N E

Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com EstablishEd 1879 Olivier January/february 2011 • vol . 132, no. 1 Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Erin |Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Lynne Shuttleworth Associate Editor | lynne@gorgmgo.com Carol besler Consulting Editor Editorial Specialist | jessica@gorgmgo.com Jessica Uniac Beauty & Lifestyle Paul aguirre Associate Irina EditorLytchak | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Editoral Assistant | irina@gorgmgo.com Laurie O’Handley Editoral Intern | intern@gorgmgo.com scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Robert Murdoch Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Leslie Witol Finance Administrator | leslie@gorgmgo.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com Matthew Pompey Multimedia Specialist | web@rivegauchemedia.com

J E W E L L E RY: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F O R M A T I O N & I D E N T I T Y

Bennett, Noam Carver, Gord Henning, CONTRIBUTORS Aileen lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs chris Davey,Katie Huisman, John Lamont, Brian McLoughlin, Duncan Parker, A B S O L U T E LY YO U

John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean Karina Remley, Carmen Rivet, Bonnie Siegler, E.Z. Guler-Tuck MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson,sales bonnie siegler.

W I N T E R 2 01 2

salEs lucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi THE BEST LOOKS F OR 201 2

Karolann Cassman NEIL LANE: JEWELLER TO T H E STA RS PE A R LS: SEX Y & INSPIRED

CiRCUlatiON

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head Office

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity For More Information Contact: Olivier Felicio 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6107 Lucy Holden 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6117 Shane Stefurak 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6134

Check our Website for Monthly Specials! Phone 1.800.663.6472

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Montreal Office

tel .

Subscription Rates Canada — one year, $185; two years,subscription $175; three yearsRates $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide iscanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; $160. united states one year,and us$205. — one year us$205 include Guide sues.) 8%three P.S.T.years for Newfoundland, New — Brunswick Nova Foreign Scotia residents. Single copies(subscriptions — $25; Buyers’ Guidebuyers’ $40. Bulk ratesis-— six or more subscriptions, $17.50 sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; Guide per $40.year bulk(Canada rates —only). six or more subscriptions, $17.50 perbuyers’ subscription per subscription per year (canada only). Change of Address

Change address email:ofcj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 email: telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or sendcj@publicationpartners.com your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, 101,Media pickering, Published by Rivesuite Gauche II Inc.oN canada l1V 1A1 Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc. Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreementmade No. 40678000. the publisher does of notthe assume any responsibility the contents of any advertisement anyadvertiser and all for any misprints in advertising not representations or warranties in such advertising are those advertiser and not of thefor publisher. The publisher is not liable and to any representations or warranties made inthe such advertising are those advertiser of of thethe publisher. theliability publisher is not not exceed liable tothe any advertiser forpublisher’s any misprints in advertising not fault of the publisher andofinthe such an eventand thenot limit publisher’s shall amount of the charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication the fault of the publisher and in suchmay an event the limit ofinthe liability not exceed amount of charge forJeweller such advertising. portiontoofreview this publication be reproduced, allpublisher’s or part, without theshall express writtenthe permission ofthe thepublisher’s publisher. Canadian magazineNo is pleased unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration may be reproduced, in all or part, without written permission of the publisher. Jeweller magazine(photographs, is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration underthe theexpress following conditions: all material submittedcanadian for editorial consideration illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller under the following conditions: all material submitted (photographs, illustrations, written textinternet, in electronic or hard copy the format) mayof,beorused canadian Jeweller and their affiliatesfor foreditorial editorialconsideration purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, disc, etc.) without consent the by payment of compensation to, the party providing such and their affiliates for editorial purposes in anyPlease mediadirect (whether printed, to electronic, internet, disc,Return etc.) without the consent theGauche paymentMedia, of compensation to, the party such ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. submissions the Editor, Canadian. undeliverable itemsof,toorRive 60 Bloor Street West, Ste.providing 1106, Toronto, material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

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Associate publisher (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 AssociAte publisher email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Shane Stefurak national accounts & groups sales manager tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6134 ADVertisiNG sAles email shane@gorgmgo.com tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 ADVertisiNG sAles email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 email karolann@gorgmgo.com CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 publicAtioN pArtNers Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1 345 Kingston road, suite 101 toll free 1-877-547-2246 pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1 email cj@publicationpartners.com toll free 1-877-547-2246 email cj@publicationpartners.com Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8 60 bloor street West, suite 1106 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507 Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2 555 chabanel street West, suite 1507 tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 Lucy Holden

m CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2w w| w.wcwawn. caadn iaadni aj nejwe weel ll el er.r c. coom January/February 2011

12/16/10 11:28:53 AM

1/26/12 3:15:57 PM

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 88

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[FEATURES]

42 60 FEBRUARY 2012

34. Learning to “like” social media

60. A recession-proof commodity

ocus on high-quality interactions that will help you F win more business.

36. what’s in a gem

Demand for high-end jewellery remains buoyant through boom or bust economies.

64. school of rocks

Take a close look inside and discover an intriguing secret world.

42. The Ties that Bind

Easy ways to get up to speed on new technology and retail management techniques.

72. india: Tiger of the jewellery world

Buying group DiGem stays ahead of the game by creating strong relationships

50. A Cut Above With demand riding high, diamonds can be a jeweller’s best friend.

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

Technology simplifies doing business with this jewellery and gemstone hotspot.

SPÉCIAL : CJ en français 56.

savez-vous ce que vous achetez?

58. l’art de la joaillerie

1/26/12 2:24:41 PM

Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 88

Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A)

STOCK# SHAPE CARAT COLOR CLARITY DIMENSION HB/K-1239 RAD 1.51 FCY IF 6.70*6.15*4.06 HB/K/1240 RAD 1.57 FCY IF 6.29*6.23*4.19 HB/K/1244 RAD 1.80 FCY IF 6.76*6.69*4.69 HB/K/1245 CUSH 1.84 FCY IF 7.21*6.77*4.27 HB/K/1257 CUSH 3.60 FIY IF 8.69*8.36*5.54 HB/K/1265 RAD 4.12 FCY IF 9.55*8.76*5.44 HB/K/1266 RAD 5.17 FCY IF 9.74*9.44*6.09 HB/1111 CUSH 9.11 FCY SI2 11.46*11.36*7.70 HB/K/1263 CUSH 0.54 F/PU/P VS2 4.98*4.26*2.89 HB/1280 CUSH 1.02 F/PU/P SI1 5.95*5.36*3.61 HB/K/1259 PEAR 1.18 F/I/P H/C 7.62*5.39*3.74 HB/1281 CUSH 1.21 F/I/P H/C 6.33*6.28*3.70 HB/K/1260 CUSH 1.57 F/PU/P HC 7.03*6.62*4.05 HB/1282 OVAL 1.00 F/I/BLUE IF 8.70*6.46*2.48

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LAB DEPTH TABLE GIRDLE CUT POL SYM FLOUR PRICE/CT GIA 66.1 74 VTK-XTK VG G N GIA 67.2 68 TK-XTK VG G N GIA 70 63 XTK VG VG F GIA 63 67 VTK-XTK VG G N GIA 66.3 65 TKVTK EX G S GIA 62 70 VTK VG VG N GIA 64.5 69 XTK VG VG N GIA 67.8 63 STK-XTK EX G N GIA 67.9 66 TN-VTK G G S GIA 67.3 60 STK-XTK VG G N GIA GIA ARGYLE GIA GIA 38.4 70 VG G N

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68 70

[DEPARTMENTS] FEBRUARY 2012 12.

Letter from the editor

14.

Product profiles

24.

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s news

www.facebook.com/CJMag

76. learnings from 2011 Although the year set a record in Canadian jewellery crime, police forces solved many cases successfully.

26. For the record 68. diamond dreams Lili Jewelry brings together some of the best and brightest to create and market diamond showstoppers.

70. celebrating the gifts of nature

www.twitter.com/CJMag

78. Showcase/marketplace 88. Fax back 90.

Last word

Cara Cotter designs unique, detailed pieces with eyecatching coloured gemstones and precious metals.

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 88 CJ_FEB_2012_Creation_Le_Grenier_Ethan_Stars_FP.indd 1

1/26/12 12:56:06 PM

letterfromtheeditor

Seize the year Even though the New Year is not that new anymore, it still feels full of possibilities. Especially when you learn that some jewellers (most of the ones affi liated with the buying group DiGem, at least) are still celebrating having one of their best years in decades (page 42). It’s also a good time to reevaluate strategies, finally embrace social media (page 34) and take a peek at what’s coming (page 60). There is hope and business opportunities, even amidst all the recessionary doomsday scenarios we’re faced with almost every day. Speaking of opportunities, some world markets are still growing and expanding their consumer base, thank you very much. India, for instance, is a country with a rich jewellery tradition and a growing appetite for gold (page 72). Many claim silver is the new gold. Diamonds, however, are always going to be diamonds. In spite of the fact that many consumers are shying away from buying gold, diamonds are still being coveted and remain a really good investment. To sell diamond jewellery during uncertain economic periods is undoubtedly challenging yet far from impossible (page 48). Lili Jewelry knows that well (page 66). Contrary to some apocalyptic prophecies, the world hasn’t come to an end in 2012. Let’s celebrate that we are still here, willing to go the extra mile and make this a year to be happily remembered.

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief

CJ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 2 |

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

1/26/12 11:10:33 AM

Best Bargains

CELEBRATING

YEARS

IN THE SHOW BUSINESS

Package 705: 10/14kt. Gold assorted Gemstone Pendants, set with Peridot, Blue Topaz, Garnet, Moonstone, Citrine, Amethyst, Iolite, etc (total wt. app. 6.0cts).

Package 706: 10kt. white Gold 3mm Earrings, set with all 12 month genuine gems.

Package 758: 10kt. Gold lever-back Earrings,

set with 6x4 Gemstones: a. Blue Topaz, b. Garnet, c. Citrine, d. Ruby, e. Emerald & f. Sapphire. b.

Package 779: 14kt. Gold Earrings & Pendant set, with 42 diamonds & 6x4 gemstones: a. Ruby, b. Emerald, c. Sapphire.

All 6 pairs for $90 (Your choice: $22.50/pr.)

Package 800: 14kt. Gold Rings, set with 9

Package 812: 10kt. Y/W Gold Bracelets

Gemstones (5x3), approx. 3.5-4cts of stones: a. Ruby, b. Sapphire, c. Tanzanite, d. Emerald

accented by 2 Dia. & 10 Gemstones (5x3mm): a. Ruby, b. Tanzanite, c. Emerald, d. Sapphire

Earrings,Set with a. Amethyst, b. Aquamarine, c & d. Garnet, e. Peridot & f. Sapphire.

All 6 pairs for $72 (as low as $12/pr.)

Package 720: 10kt. Gold 5mm Gemstone

Cultured Pearl Earrings.

All 12 pairs for $108 (as low as $9/pr.)

All 8 Pendants for $72 (as low as $9/ea.)

Package 716: 14kt. Gold Genuine Freshwater &

c. d. d.

Your choice of any set: $300

All 6 pairs for $216 (Your choice: $45/pr.)

(also available in Alexandrite & other gemstones)

Package 891: 10kt. Gold Rings, set with genuine Gemstone & 2 Diamonds: a. Sapphire, b. Emerald, c. Ruby, d. Citrine, e. Garnet f. Opal

Package 898: 14kt. Gold genuine Mystic Topaz Earrings (available in white/yellow gold) a. 11cts, b. 8cts, c. 12cts

Package 900: 14kt gold Ruby and Emerald Cherry Design Earrings and Pendant. Available in Yellow and White Gold.

c. For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 88

Package 896: 14kt. Gold genuine Ammolite & Diamond Earrings: a. Long Ammolite with 0.14cts of diamonds $300/pr. b. Filigree ammolite (8x6) with 4 diamonds $250/pr.

Your choice of any Bracelet $150 (available in other stones)

(also available in other gemstones)

All 4 Rings for $1200 (Your choice $350/ea.)

c. f.

All 6 Rings for $540 (Your Choice $100/ea.)

Matching pendants available.

(also available in other gemstones)

Please Visit us at the following Shows 2012

SHOW

DATE

1. Tucson

Jan 31-Feb 5/12

BOOTH #309

Tucson Convention Center

2. Bangkok

Feb 9-13/12

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3. Miami

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4.Las Vegas

May 31-Jun 4/12

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5. New York

Jul 29-31/12

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Jacob Javits Convention Center

6. Toronto

Aug 12-14/12

#608

JCK, Metro Toronto Convention Centre - South Hall

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VENUE

All 3 Earrings for $400 (Your choice $150/pr.)

Earrings

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Pendant

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YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S. Please Add $20.00 for S&H, OR $50.00/ 1lb. FEDEX.

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21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

For more Products visit our website at

www.bbjw.com info@bbjw.com 1-800-661-4871

1/26/12 12:54:19 PM

productprofiles

4 3

1. Ethan stars

selection of wedding rings. This collection of bridal sets will please even

Ethan Stars exquisite line of sterling silver jewelry is designed for the savvy,

the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively designed to fit the

fashion forward consumer. Our meticulous designs are individual works of

personality, style and taste of future brides. To see the full collection and our

art created to express the unique beauty and style of our customers. This

wedding bands, visit midasjewelryinc.ca. For more information, write 142 on

sterling silver, black enamel ring is pavé set with purple crystals and has a

the Free Info Card on page 88.

black and white rhodium finish. For more information, write 140 on the Free 4. GIA Reports and Grading Systems

Info Card on page 88.

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in 2. malo

communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and

Today, we, the third generation of MALO jewelers, continue our family tradition

the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides

of embracing quality and beauty in every step of the creation of our products.

an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of

In platinum or in yellow, white or pink gold, with diamonds or without, in any

diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also

number of fabulous finishes; your client’s dreams come true with MALO. For

includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity

more information, write 141 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most

3. Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas Jewelry

impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write

We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast

143 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 88. CJ_ERL.indd1 1 CJ_ad.indd

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productprofiles

1. nova diamonds

3. Ready mounts

Nova Diamonds introduces an extravagant addition to their large

At Ready Mounts we are focusing on offering a variety of products and services

collection of high-end bangles. Measuring 6.5 centimetres across, this

to help save you time and money. We offer full CAD services, including milling

18K white gold floral inspired bangle consists of over 2000 stones totaling

and growing of waxes. Also currently stocking bracelet mounts in classic

37.16 carats, and is punctuated by an appraisal value of $135,000. For

styles, as well as ring mounts, semi-mounts and finished goods. For more

more information, write 144 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

2. lili jewelry

4. Gold, 24/7

Never before has there been a diamond that appears whiter than its

For the most accurate gold pricing, turn to 24 Gold Group Ltd. Specializing

true color. The ten sided Meteor Cut速 diamond, developed with flawless

in real-time gold pricing, clients are given the most precise, right up to the

symmetry, has 71 well placed facets. Radiating dazzling brilliance and an

second, pricing possible. For more information, write 147 on the Free Info

endless refraction of light, the Meteor Cut速 is recognizable at first glance.

Card on page 88.

Meteor Cut - the perfect 10. For more information, write 145 on the Free 速

Info Card on page 88.

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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A complementary approach Jewelers Mutual and the canadian Jewellers assocation (cJa) are working together to promote vitality and security within the canadian jewellery industry. learn more about the products and services we’ve created for your business. • Insurance policies catered to your business and customers

• Educational courses on security procedures

• Consumer outreach branding programs

• Updates on industry laws and regulations

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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contact Jewelers Mutual today to learn more. | 800-558-6411 | www.JewelersMutual.ca

J e w e l e r s M u t u a l i s e x c l u s i v e ly e n d o r s e d b y t h e c a n a d i a n J e w e l l e r s a s s o c i at i o n a n d e n c o u r a g e s p a r t i c i p at i o n i n t h e J e w e l e r s b o a r d o f t r a d e . l e a r n w h y y o u s h o u l d J o i n J b t at w w w. J e w e l e r s b o a r d . c o M .

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productprofiles

1. Best Bargains

3. imperial color diamonds

Multi-colour sapphires are all the rage. Coupled with luscious South Sea

Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery

Pearls, this necklace is a stunner. Handmade in 14kt Gold and set with sev-

from one of a kind pink diamond rings to amazing graduated yellow dia-

en yellowish-cream South Sea pearls this necklace can be worn long or

mond necklaces. We are proud to offer an extensive collection of fine loose

doubled as a choker. Retail value $1400. For more information, write 148 on

natural fancy color diamonds (all certified G.I.A). Our high volume allows us

the Free Info Card on page 88.

to be competitive and provide the lowest prices possible. For more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

2. Talk it out. Try it out. Work it out. Stuller’s upcoming Bench Jeweler Workshop will feature two full days of

4. Introducing KIM’s Romance® Bridal Collection

continuous demonstrations on tools and techniques from industry pros and

Kim International’s Romance® Bridal Collection features 18kt gold and dia-

Stuller’s experts. Freedom to try your hand on the latest models of tools and

mond bridal designs crafted with impeccable quality and styling. Romance®

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impressed me with his knowledge and handson experience from many years in the retail and wholesale business around the world.” Gulden will replace CEO Marello Bottoli who will now take on the role of deputy chairman of the company’s board of directors. Prior to his role of managing director at Deichmann, Gulden spent eight years with Adidas.

Birks & Mayors Inc. has appointed JeanChristophe Bédos as the luxury jewellery brand’s newest president and CEO, taking over for Thomas A. Andruskevich who announced that he would be leaving the company in the spring of 2012. Bédos joins Birks & Mayors after previously working as the president and CEO for jewellery house Boucheron International from 2004. Bédos began his career in the jewellery industry with Cartier in 1988 and has served as the international executive manager for Richemont from 2000 to 2002. Effective January 4, 2012, Bédos will report to Andruskevich as the Birks & Mayors COO and on April 1, 2012 he will officially assume the role of president and CEO.

Pandora Appoints New CEO

Björn Gulden

Pandora is pleased to welcome B j ö r n Gulden, managing director of Deichmann Group as well as president and CEO of its Rack Room Shoes and Off Broadway Shoes chains, as its new CEO. Pandora chairman Allan Leighton says, “Björn is an outstanding executive who has

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Patrick Kury, Eterna’s New CEO The developer of Spherodrive, Eterna, is pleased to welcome Patrick Kury as CEO. Having spent a lifetime studying watches and coming from a family of watchmakers, Kury is a great fit for the role. With a wealth of knowledge and years of experience, Eterna and Kury will work side by side to bring the company and Porsche Design Timepieces to a new level. Prior to his new role as CEO, Patrick worked as Eterna’s Chief Technology Officer since 2005 and has been the company’s Deputy Executive Director since 2008.

Ron Boire

Birks & Mayors Appoints New CEO

Burke “has led a very successful turnaround.” Current executive vice president of marketing and communications for Louis Vuitton, Pietro Beccari, will continue as Burke’s replacement.

Sears Announces Boire as New President Sears Holdings has announced its newest president for its Sears and Kmart branches. Ron Boire, who previously worked as Brookstone’s president and CEO, will also serve as Sears’ executive vice president and chief merchandising officer and will be responsible for the company’s merchandising and retail sectors. Boire comes to Sears with MBAs from Columbia Business School, and London Business School, as well as work experience with Toys “R” US, Best Buy and Sony. “I understand the company’s challenges, yet I am more persuaded by the company’s opportunities and strengths,” Boire said in a statement.

Bulgari Welcomes New CEO LVMH welcomes Fendi chairman Michael Burke to lead Bulgari. Burke brings a wealth of knowledge and years of experience with past positions as head of U.S. operations for Christian Dior and president and CEO of Louis Vuitton North America from 1993 to 1997. LVMH says

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PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

Guadalupe Appointed CEO for Hublot Hublot, a Swiss luxury watch creator, has appointed former managing director Ricardo Guadalupe as the company’s new chief executive officer. Guadalupe is taking over for Jean-Claude Biver who will continue to serve as Hublot’s chairman of the board as well as the firm’s official spokesperson, making him responsible for coordinating communications with the press, collectors and the industry. Guadalupe initially joined the Hublot team in 2005 yet has worked alongside Biver for nearly 20 years. [CJ]

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fortherecord

news | trends | events Sears Canada refuses to close stores

Platinum sales show promise for 2012

Montblanc pushes watch sales over pens

Shortly following the announcement that Sears Holdings Inc. was planning to shut down over 100 of its Sears and Kmart locations, Sears Canada declared that it wouldn’t be shutting down any of its own locations – it would focus on improving the existing locations instead. "We're not in a position where we're closing stores," said Sears Canada spokesman Vincent Power. "If anything, we're looking at how to improve them." Although the Canadian subsidiary laid off 70 employees from its downtown Toronto head office last month, Power said that future job cuts are not definite at this point. "Our new CEO, Calvin McDonald, has been putting plans into place to make the stores even more attractive, more relevant, more shoppable for Canadian consumers," Power said.

Thackray’s 2012 Investor’s Guide has revealed that platinum has settled at US $1,347.60 per ounce on Dec. 29, 2011 and has begun its annual period of seasonal strength, which runs from January to March 31. In the past 25 years, platinum has outperformed gold by an average of 6.9 per cent during this period and has had a standard of over nine per cent of return per period. During this time of year, the jewellery industry makes up the majority of the demand for platinum with 40 per cent and the automobile market comes in close second with 37 per cent, since the traditional auto-buying season runs from February to May. Industry officials expect for platinum sales to fare well in Canada as auto sales are predicted to rise by another 10 per cent in 2012.

Montblanc, a high-end manufacturer of writing tools, jewellery and accessories, is planning to balance the company’s low fountain pen sales by pitching into the high demand of their luxury watches. This decision is a reflection of Montblanc’s further conversion towards becoming a luxury-goods brand. The firm has been making watches for the past 14 years, during which writing tools have accounted for almost half of their sales. Over the past few years, Montblanc has released items such as luggage carriers, diamond jewellery for women and limitededition watches costing over US $300,000 and have seen that in an age of prevailing technology, pens are less needed by their clientele.“In the next five years or so, watches have the chance to become bigger than writing instruments,” says Lutz Bethge, Montblanc’s chief executive officer in Hamburg.

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The ultimate accessory for owners of automatic, self winding watches, Rapport Lumina Duo Watch Winder, ensures that two prestige watches maintain their accuracy when not being worn. Distributed by Canadian company Valangin Inc., it is crafted using the finest quality materials, with the cabinet finished in a matte black lustre and all metal surfaces are brushed aluminum. A unique electronic mechanism creates the necessary sequence of movements to keep the internal elements of self-winding watches charged and in top condition. In the event of a power failure, there is also a manual override to open the doors to gain access to your watches.

Tom Parker Bowles, a renowned food writer and broadcaster, served as host at the Fabergé commissioned event at The Goring Hotel where he kicked off the countdown to the first ever ‘The Fabergé Big Egg Hunt’ set for spring 2012. Select guests were treated to a luxurious breakfast of ‘Eggs Fabergé’ by Goring’s Head Chef, Derek Quelch, to celebrate the debut of the world’s biggest Easter egg hunt ever. The Fabergé Big Egg Hunt, which will take place across Central London, will aim to raise up to £2 million for Action for Children, a children’s charity, and Elephant Family, the UK’s largest supporter of endangered Asian elephants. The one-of-a-kind spring event is also set to achieve a Guinness World Record for the biggest ever Easter egg hunt. Organizers will be strategically placing 200 giant eggs throughout the capital and participants will have 40 days and nights of Lent to find as many eggs as possible.

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fortherecord

Emerald earrings set a new record at Christie’s auction Colombian emerald ear pendants set a new record at Christie’s auction on Nov. 29 in Hong Kong. The 25.38 and 23.12 ct green gems were sold for $83,000 per carat, resulting in a total sale of $4 million, the highest ever for emerald ear pendants. Director of the jewellery department at Christie’s Asia, Vickie Sek, announced $172 million is the “highest annual result for any auction house in Hong Kong.” Selling for $16.4 million, a pair of D-Flawless 35.77 and 35.61 ct diamonds reached the highest price to date for colourless diamonds in Asia. Other highlights included a diamond brooch with a 26.42 ct Kashmir sapphire, which sold for $3.8 million and a pair of fancy pink diamond earrings weighing 4.03 and 4.01 carats, auctioned for $2 million.

Diamdel Reports Progress in Rough-Diamond Market Diamdel.com, an Antwerp-based, online rough diamond auctioneer, has reported that buyers in Antwerp and Asia Pacific have been keeping the demand for diamonds on the rise throughout 2011. A De Beers Group company, Diamdel revealed that over 100 different businesses have bid at their auctions held in November and December and that about 30 companies won lots. Diamond sales have also been held steady by Tel Aviv buyers yet India-based retailers continued to show a decline in their diamond purchases. Sales reports show that prices have strengthened and progress was made across all of the available product categories. Neil Ventura, CEO for Diamdel.com, has said that, “We have reduced our presentations of rough in recent cycles in line with our view of prevailing demand, yet are encouraged to see an improvement in both demand and prices during this latest cycle of auction sales. Based upon this and other indicators we anticipate both demand and prices will strengthen further in Q1 2012.”

De Toledo Diamonds Certified by RJC The Responsible Jewellery Council announced that De Toledo Diamonds International BVBA, an Antwerp-based rough diamond manufacturer,

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has qualified for certification by meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards under the RJC’s Member Certification System. Ann Van Vlaenderen of WF&CO, an independent third-party auditing firm under the RJC, had the task of assessing De Toledo for their certification. Shai de Toledo, managing director for the diamond company, has said that they are “honoured to be a part of the growing RJC Family.”

conference series last year and plans to surpass that number in 2012. Nine Bridge conference dates for 2012 are now scheduled for customers at its global headquarters in Lafayette, LA. Bridge tackles contemporary areas of potential improvement for traditional jewellery stores, with a blend of educational seminars and group dialogue on being connected, innovative and more profitable.

Stuller Renews DTC Sightholder Contract and Schedules Bridge Conference Dates

JewelPops Inc., Reaches Agreement with Royal Chain Group and Helzberg Diamonds Inc.

Stuller Inc, a jewellery manufacturer and distributor, has announced that they have renewed their contract as a Diamond Trading Company Sightholder for the period extending between 2012 and 2015. Stuller originally became a Sightholder in 2005 and has since complied with the De Beers Diamond Best Practice Principles in order to ensure socially and environmentally responsible operations, according to vice president of Diamonds and Gemstones, Stanley Zale. The DTC Sightholder is a provider of goods and services for jewellery industry professionals and runs nine operations across three continents. As well, Stuller Inc. consulted more than 500 independent retail jewellers through its Bridge

After a six-month long dispute, Canadian jewellery designer and manufacturer JewelPops Inc., has reached an agreement with Royal Chain Group and Helzberg Diamonds Inc. JewelPops founder and President, Robert Smith, referred to the settlement of the dispute as being fair saying, “The interests of JewelPops and our more than 1,000 independent dealers and sales representatives who sell our product were successfully defended.” Royal Chain President Paul Maroof, says the company welcomes the competition with the Kameleon line allowing “consumers more choices in interchangeable jewellery.” Details of the agreement remain confidential.

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1/26/12 3:15:34 PM

fortherecord

Swatch collection sells at chart-topping price During a recent auction by Phillips de Pury & Company, a unique collection of Swatch watches was sold at a record-breaking price of $6.7 million to a Chinese collector. Held at Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, the auction featured the Blum Collection amassed over the years by Swiss businessman Peter Blum and his wife Linda to total 4,363 watches. The collection included models from the brand’s early days, prototypes, hybrids and some really rare pieces designed by artists Keith Haring, Mimmo Paladino, Alfred Hofkunst and Sam Francis.

2011 showed hike in diamond prices Rapaport has issued a price report revealing that the prices of certified polished diamonds have increased by 19 per cent reaching 96.96 towards the end of 2011 as a result of their strong demand in the first half of the year. Since Jan. 1 2012, silver prices showed relative

stability due to a mildly successful holiday season in the U.S. yet industry officials are slightly concerned whether current price levels will remain neutral.

Hamilton and Air Zermatt launch new watch Hamilton and Air Zermatt, Switzerland’s esteemed helicopter rescue and transport service, have teamed up to launch the prestigious watch manufacturer’s latest timepiece model, the Khaki Flight Timer. The joint venture was launched in a unique way; using a video of a simulated helicopter rescue mission by Air Zermatt’s CEO and pilot Gerold Biner. The new multi-functional aviation watch model is accented by a vibrant orange rubber band and features both digital and analogue displays. Customers can use the timepiece to record up to 20 flights and 99 landings per each flight with the help of the innovative and personalized pilots’ logbook.

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fortherecord

Watch auctions for record amount at Sotheby’s Selling for $482,500, a Patek Phillipe 18k gold watch set a record at Sotheby’s New York Important Watches and Clocks auction on Dec. 6. The rare timepiece is one of the earliest ones known to exist. The auction also set a record, bringing in $8.8 million. John Reardon, head of Sotheby’s watches department in New York, says the results were very pleasing. According to Reardon, the strategy of focusing on customer experience proved to be a success as global interest attracted top buyers from Asia, the United States, Europe and Africa.

Proposals to Open India’s Retail Market to Big-Name Retailers On Hold With the continuous growth of popularity in India’s retail market, proposals to allow big-name international retailers into the market have been MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 put on hold due to strong political opposition. The

Indian government announced the possibility of allowing foreign companies to invest up to 51 per cent in supermarkets including Walmart, Tesco and Carrefour. India’s politicians and critics are fighting back saying the concept could negatively affect millions of small-business owners. A government spokesman quoted in the Indian press said the plans have not been declined, just put on hold. India’s retail market is currently worth US $450 billion.

Silver begins its seasonal high As silver enters its seasonal strength period, which runs from the month of September to April, industry officials are expecting its demand to surpass its supply in early 2012. The main influencing factor behind this is the recovery of Thailand, the world’s largest assembler of electronic devices, such as solar batteries, mobile phones, circuit boards and plasma televisions. As a result of Thailand’s

major flood in 2011, many of its electronic assembly plants were shut down yet are expected to reopen early on in 2012. Silver demand shows a particular high during January and February and is expected to demonstrate an average return period of 11 per cent.

Fossil Gains Skagen, Teams with Lagerfeld After experiencing an immense jump in sales, Fossil, Inc. has embarked on a few projects to continue the positive trend. The Texas-based designer and manufacturer of timepieces and other accessories is set to acquire Skagen Designs, Ltd., a Danish accessory brand established out of Reno, Nevada. The agreement, set to be finalized in February 2012, entails more than US$236 million in cash and 150,000 Fossil shares for Skagen. Fossil has also announced a new collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld to design and develop a line of women’s and men’s fashion watches, all set to debut in spring 2013. The iconic Karl Lagerfeld label will develop the stylish collection with Fossil under the leadership of senior vice president Steve Woodward and brand manager Jennifer Fink, also a member of the DKNY team.

Historical pink diamond unveiled at Lugaro Jewellers

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Lugaro Jewellers, a Canadian diamond retailer based in Vancouver, is celebrating their 25th anniversary by showcasing the first pink diamond ever mined in Canada. Found in the Victor Mine operated by De Beers Canada, Ontario, the 2.75-carat pink diamond is deemed the most expensive natural formation in the world. As a proud supporter of the Canadian diamond mining industry, Lugaro purchased the oval cut, light pink diamond in order to display it at their Park Royal, West Vancouver retail location. Renowned jewellery designer Simon G. was behind the display of the diamond, which is set in an 18-karat white gold ring, surrounded by smaller pink and white diamonds, and is now retailing for $425,000. Steve Agopian, President of Lugaro, has said that, “Canadian diamonds resonate with our clients and we are excited to have one of the rarest of them all, a pink diamond like no other.”

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Breitling launches new watches, new app Esteemed Swiss watchmaker Breitling has released two new watch models to add to its lavish collection of timepieces. The Breitling Colt 44 is a newly redesigned steel model that’s known for being sturdy and originally designed for a client who doesn’t live by the rules. This timepiece is waterproof, equipped with SuperQuartzTM movements and comes available in three dynamic styles. Breitling’s partnership with Bentley has generated two new watch models to honour the famous Bentley Boys. The Bentley Barnato and the Bentley Barnato Racing both feature Bentley-inspired dial motifs and transparent sapphire crystal casebacks, the ultimate in luxury. Breitling is also staying ahead of the game in the world of app technology by launching a free ‘Breitling Reno Air Races’ Android game as a tribute to the 48thReno Races. As a sponsor of the National Championships Air Races, the watchmaker has previously succeeded with an Apple version of the game and plans to make it available for iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch users.

Fabergé launches first advertising campaign The international luxury jewellery house Fabergé has launched its first advertising campaign

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showcasing signature pieces including the high Fabergé jewellery collections. The campaign was led by Fabergé’s Managing and Creative Director, Katharina Flohr, in collaboration with Mario Testino, Carine Roitfeld and producer Camilla Johnson-Hill. The team previously worked together in 1998 on the launch of Russian Vogue. Key pieces featured in the campaign include the Delices d'Été Necklace, the Lumiere d'Été Earring and the Oeuf Violet Olga Email Egg Pendant from Fabergé’s latest high jewellery collection which launched at Paris Couture week in July 2011, named Les Saisons Russes.

No slowing down for luxury brand Burberry Despite the current economy, luxury brand Burberry is holding sales strong in top cities around the world. Cities like New York, Hong Kong and London show high demand for luxury retail. According to Chief Executive Angela Ahrendts, 60 per cent of Burberry’s revenue was generated in 25 cities where extreme wealth and tourism thrive. "We are intently focused right now on optimizing the brand momentum.” Last month, Burberry topped forecasts with a 29 per cent increase in second-quarter revenue. There are plans for the luxury company to open another eight to 10 stores in the second half of its financial year.

Tiffany shares take a plunge Tiffany & Co. stock sales have been a direct reflection of the financial woes currently exhibited in Europe and the U.S., with the luxury jewellery brand’s shares falling by nine per cent. A long-time stock market luminary, Tiffany’s third-quarter earnings soared while the holidayquarter sales have missed analysts’ expectations. According to chief executive Michael Kowalski, the drop in shares is largely due to weak sales in the eastern part of the U.S. and in the European luxury market, which together make up nearly 60 per cent of Tiffany’s business. Yet in Japan, the brand’s second largest market, sales have actually risen. According to Thomson Reuters, Tiffany expects fourth-quarter sales to remain below Wall Street predictions of $1.63 per share.

New 4Cs iPad app from GIA The Gemological Institute of America has released a new 4Cs iPad app for consumers and retailers. Available for consumers through free download on iTunes, the app is designed to educate on the 4Cs which include colour, clarity, cut and carat weight. The version for retailers can be accessed at GIA’s retailer support site, retailer.gia.edu. According to Kathryn Kimmel, GIA Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer, the goal of the app is to provide knowledge required when making buying decisions through “unbiased diamond information in a way that is both engaging and fun.” An iPhone app and Chinese version will soon be available for download. [CJ]

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he main thing every business wants to know about using social media is how to get more followers. Whether it’s friends, connections, followers or “likes,” we all want more.

Numbers, though, even in social media, do not define success. It’s easy to get caught up in the numbers; however, unless they represent potential customers – real people who interact with you – they are worth nothing. Focus on quality, not quantity. It’s better to have 500 people who read and react to your posts than 5,000 people who don’t. You have to start by knowing your target audience. And that starts by knowing who you are as a business. What makes you unique? What makes people come back to your store? Avoid generic answers such as, “We sell the best,” or “Our customer service.” Instead, be specific. Back to basics

Time budgeting

How much time will all this take? You don’t have to be tied to a computer all day to make it work. My social media is set up so that if anyone directs a message to me on Twitter or leaves a comment on my Facebook page, it comes through to my phone. All it takes is a quick glance to establish whether it’s something I need to reply to immediately or if it can wait until I have time later.

“Take a look at what other businesses are doing – any business you think is doing it right, not just other jewellery businesses. Get inspired by them and create your own ideas, rather than just copying theirs.

When working with a new business, I often start with a values exercise, because going back to basics can help you keep the important things in mind. What values does your business work from? Do all your staff know and live those same values? Are these at the basis of every decision you make?

What personality does your business have? Is it formal, casual, new and exciting, or traditional? Social media gives your business a voice; you just have to decide what that voice sounds like. Who is your customer? Where are they? Where else do they spend their money? Once you know who you are, it’s easier to find your customer base. Get inspired

Take a look at what other businesses are doing – any business you think is doing it right, not just other jewellery businesses. Get inspired by them and create your own ideas, rather than just copying theirs. The key to any social media is interacting. Talking to customers used to be a one-way street. Now they talk back. So you need to be there to answer.

”

There are some messages you may want to comment on quickly. If a customer asks on Facebook if you have a particular size or style, you may want to respond before they get an answer somewhere else. If a businessman asks if you can stay open 10 minutes late so he can come in and buy something, you need to say yes quickly. Other comments and questions can wait until you are sitting down for 10 minutes to catch up. Start the conversation

Don’t wait for others to start the conversation. If you notice one of your customers is celebrating something, you could offer to clean their special jewellery for free, for example. If you write on other people’s pages or walls, make sure you are offering something, not selling something. Social media is still new to all of us. I am not an expert; no one is yet. The best way to find out what works is to find out what works for you. This shouldn’t be just another chore on a to-do list – it’s a chance to interact with existing and potential customers, so have some fun. They are what’s most important about your business. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

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gemologyfeature

What’s in a gem? Take a close look inside and discover an intriguing By Duncan Parker secret world

here’s something special about gems: They’re pretty, bright and shiny. There’s also something less obvious that makes gems special: What’s inside them. The secret world inside a gem is there for us to see too, with a little curiosity and a bit of magnification. The inclusions inside a gem aren’t the exclusive territory of gemology nerds; they’re available for everyone to look at with a jewellers’ loupe and a decent light. The internal features of gems can be a great thing to show customers, too! I said “features” of gems, and that is certainly the way to think of them. They are sometimes referred to as “flaws.” However, that really is rather negative. Is a perfectly preserved insect inside a clear piece of amber a “flaw”? Is a well-formed octahedral crystal of bright red spinel in a beautiful blue sapphire a “flaw”? The bigger, the better

Using a loupe is good for personal use. When it comes to showing inclusions to customers, though, the jeweller’s microscope is simple, and can provide fascinating diversion to you and your customer. Most gem microscopes

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gemologyfeature provide magnification between 10X (magnified to 10 times actual size) to about 40X (magnified to 40 times actual size). Some are able to accept extra lenses, and the one I have on my desk can go up to 120X. You can sit down with your collection of gems or those in your inventory, and look for interesting things. You don’t have to know what the inclusions are to show them off. Whenever I have a class of students who are doing practical gem identification, there’s a general rush to the student sitting at a microscope saying “cool” (unless they’re sitting at their microscope while actually looking a YouTube video on their phone). The “cool” invariably comes from the student who’s found a really unusual, strange or possibly rude-looking inclusion in a gem. The expert

If you do want to know exactly what inclusions are, you can ask your friendly neighbourhood gemologist, or check literature published on the subject. The expert on inclusions and photographing them is John Koivula, who has published a three-volume Photoatlas of Gemstone Inclusions. Koivula also contributes to The Canadian Gemmologist, the publication of the Canadian Gemmological Association.

ask about the nature of the inclusions. I often encounter clients who have purchased a diamond and have suddenly noticed an inclusion. They’re afraid that the inclusions are bigger or damage has occurred. This is usually not the case. One of the most famous diamond cutters in the world, Gabi Tolkowsky, once told me that “flawless diamonds are the most common diamonds in the world, because they are all exactly the same; any diamond with inclusions is unique, because no two have exactly the same inclusions.” What might you find in a gem? The possibilities are endless. Almost any gem might have interesting inclusions. Gems mounted in jewellery are just as likely to have fascinating inclusions as those that are unmounted. Look at everything! • A diamond might have another perfect diamond crystal inside, or it might have a red garnet or a green ilmenite or diopside. A brown diamond might have alternate coloured and colourless banded zones! • A red to brown garnet will usually show golden-colour, needle-like inclusions scattered in several directions. • Emeralds from Colombia are famous for having inclusions that have “three phase” inclusions, of a solid crystal and a gas bubble, that are suspended in liquid. • I have one sapphire with an inclusion that does tricks! You can see a triangular shape in the sapphire that has two bubbles of liquids that won’t combine if they are cool. When they are heated just to body temperature, they mix together, with one bubble appearing to disappear as you watch and touch your finger to it. A cool part is that it reverses; the sapphire will do this trick over and over.

“A clever cutter

If you want to learn more about inclusions, and gemstones in general, look into the wide range of courses offered by the Canadian Gemmological Association. Shine the light

If you just want to have fun, get looking at your own gems. With a microscope, look at them with the light coming from underneath, or from the sides with a dark background behind the gem (this is called “dark field” illumination). The light will highlight the inclusions inside the gem.

might find an inclusion that can be made obvious in a cut gem and enhance the gem.

If you don’t have a microscope, you can use your 10X loupe, plus you can light up the inclusions with a small flashlight. Place the gem on top of the light, and look at it from the side. Never look at a gem with a light shining straight into your eye.

”

Sometimes you can see inclusions with the naked eye. A visible insect in amber increases the value of the gem massively; a lizard or larger animal makes amber almost priceless (a mammoth in amber would be quite extraordinary). Red goethite inclusions in quartz make very inexpensive rock crystal (colourless quartz) more interesting and more costly. Collector’s item

Whatever way you look at it, the inclusions you find can be pretty cool. The shapes, colours, tricks they do and so many other things make inclusions really intriguing. Showing them to your customers engages them with the gems directly, and also gives them confidence that you are knowledgeable and know your gems. Inclusions are good

Customers might ask for a diamond with a certain clarity grade. They might

A clever cutter might find an inclusion that can be made obvious in a cut gem and enhance the gem. A rock crystal with a perfectly placed tourmaline crystal becomes a collector’s item with many reflections of a single black needle, looking like a bicycle wheel. Whatever their nature, it’s worth exploring the internal world in your gems, and when you find something, don’t be shy: Far from breaking a sale, an inclusion might make a sale. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com

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Polygon Report: polygoncjreport

Diamond Supply & Demand

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in December 2011. .

POLYGON/CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DIAMOND REPORT

Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.

SUPPLY & DEMAND Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a fourweek period in January 2012.

CATEGORY

VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )

TYPE OF JEWELLERY

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied by technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS :

MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

AN ENTRY FEE OF

$30 ( CHEQUE

CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms. SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION • Jewellery must have been designed and made in Canada.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and a $30 fee for each package.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for diamonds.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact a Cana-

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable precautions

while the jewellery is in our possession, Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for insuring the jewellery. We sug-

gest you extend your own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, theft or damage for the duration of the compe-

tition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected. Judges will then choose an overall winner in each category.

• Entry deadline is July 7th, 2012, 5 p.m.

dian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.

• Winning entries and all information provided about the entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the designs, as well as press releases, will also be used for this purpose.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship. Consideration will also be given to marketability.

productfocus

Lily Cut® Sapphires Bouquet ring, from Lili Jewelry

A cut above

With demand riding high, diamonds can be a jeweller’s best friend By E. Zeynep Güler Tuck

hether they’re “a girl’s best friend,” “unbreakable,” or truly are “forever,” diamonds have been coveted for their beauty and value for centuries. Diamonds haven’t faltered in popularity since the invention of the engagement ring in the 15th century. These “betrothal gifts,” given by noblemen to their lovely brides prior to marriage, were the start of a long-standing tradition. Desire for diamonds then began to spread from the royals to the common people, who also wanted to admire and enjoy this luxurious gem. In the last decade, the diamond industry has seen some spectacular developments. In 2009, a rare blue diamond set a world record for its price when it was sold for $9.5 million at an auction in Geneva, Switzerland. This world record was swiftly quashed by the Graff Delaire Sunrise, a 118.8 ct yellow emerald-cut diamond, now worth approximately $26 million. That record was smashed in 2010 by one of the world’s rarest diamonds, a 24.78 ct. “fancy intense pink” diamond that was sold for $46 million at another auction in Geneva.

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productfocus

Fancy yellow SI1 11.08ct Radiant ring from Imperial Color Diamonds Inc.

Crisscut® ring from Lili Jewelry

A pretty penny

The economic crisis has had an effect on the number of diamonds being sold, since miners have had to scale back their production due to the credit crunch, reducing the level of output for this precious jewel. The lull in production, however, has not dissuaded consumers who have had their hearts set on particular square-cut or pear-shaped versions of this recession-proof commodity. In the last decade, diamond prices have risen to a record high. The prices have closely followed increased demand from China, the Pacific Rim and India. In the first three months of 2011, diamond prices rose by 17 per cent, reported CNBC. The U.S. continued to lead in sales, with a 40 per cent share of the global diamond market. However, heavy contenders such as China, especially Hong Kong, have increased sales by 20-40 per cent in the last five years, cornering 10 per cent of the market. Asian buyers are keen on “fancy” or coloured diamonds, and international jewellers such as Graff Diamonds, Tiffany & Company and DeBeers aren’t the only ones responding to this growing demand, as these chains continue to open more locations in the Asian region. Nadav Attar of Lili Diamonds notes that, “there are some countries, especially in the Far East, where our clients purchase diamonds for long-term investment because they believe this mineral’s value will increase in the future as it becomes more rare.”

While the global diamond industry is seeing a surge in investors from the east, in Canada, there has also been increasing demand for this luxury item. Hossein Bioukzadeh of Imperial Gems & Jewels Ltd. attributes the rise in sales to three factors: “First is that people are getting wealthier in Canada. I am moving higher-end jewellery, costing $30,000 and more, faster than lower priced items. Second is that immigrants moving to this country are bringing their refined tastes from overseas and are strong buyers for these goods. And third, there are many investment buyers.” big sellers

At present, engagement rings, especially the single solitaire, are still topping the charts. “There is a trend toward simplicity in jewellery styles. This is consistent with economic trends,” explains Anita Agrawal of Best Bargains. However, daring designers are also going to great lengths to appease a new type of consumer whose tastes are no longer in line with traditional bridal collections: slightly asymmetrical, unorthodox, yet still promising the vow of “forever.” Design is not all that has undergone a renaissance, with celebrities and investors alike shifting their attention to a bouquet of more

www.canadianjeweller.com

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productfocus

Fancy intense yellow IF 5.08ct cushion ring from Imperial Color Diamonds Inc.

Fancy pink VS2 1.01ct cushion ring from Imperial Color Diamonds Inc.

Fancy intense pink 1.18ct pear shape ring from Imperial Color Diamonds Inc.

colourful diamonds. “Fancy yellow diamonds are the most popular item today, then pink, blue and green, says Hossein Bioukzadeh. “Even for engagement rings, there is a demand for coloured gems.” Anita Agrawal also notes that, “Antique cut diamonds seem to be reemerging, especially rose and single cut diamonds…Additionally, the popularity of champagne and coloured diamonds has branched out to include black diamonds. Many designers have started to use black diamonds with other coloured gemstones or as a complement to white diamonds in their pieces.” This fascination with coloured diamonds might be attributed to the fact that, as Bioukzadeh points out: “From every 10,000 diamonds mined from the ground, you find one coloured diamond; it’s hard to get, and the price is increasing because of the rarity of these goods.” conflict-free

Over the decades, diamonds have been the source of much conf lict in countries such as Angola, Ivory Coast, Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. More recently, these “blood diamonds” are being smuggled illegally from Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond fields – where government-run torture camps exist today – through Mozambique and South Africa. They’re then mixed in with legitimate diamonds from around the world and sold to western buyers in countries such as United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Lebanon.

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The politics and ethics of diamonds have begun to outweigh the aesthetics of the jewel, causing consumers to question where their diamonds are coming from. As the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)’s Chief Operating Officer, Catherine Sproule, explains, “Jewellers realize that demonstrating to their customers that they have credible systems in place to ensure consumer confidence—evidenced by an independent third party audit—allows them to hold up their company to the everadvancing consumer desire to shop from a jeweller who holds the same values as theirs.” Certification by the RJC enables jewellers to provide proof of “their commitment to promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices,” says Sproule. “Their commitment aims to reinforce consumer and stakeholder confidence in jewellery products.” “We don’t deal with other diamonds, only conflict-free with Kimberley Process certification,” says Nadav Attar. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) is an international organization that imposes extensive requirements on diamond producers, asking them to certify shipments of their diamonds as conflict-free. The scheme was set up to prevent “blood diamonds” from being mixed in with the mainstream rough diamond market. “As global consumer awareness grows in regard to our consumption habits, people want to know where their products are sourced from,

www.canadianjeweller.com

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productfocus

Meteor Cut® ring from Lili Jewelry

under what conditions and whether a product is sustainable,” says Anita Agrawal. “Consumers are savvy and know that cheap goods can come at a steep ecological or humanitarian price. As jewellers, we should actually foster consumer education across the industry. “It is not yet commonplace to discuss how gemstones are mined and sourced. However, I believe that in the future people will ask questions about fair trade gemstones too.” The new generation

Even with so much to consider when investing in this rock, retailers have noticed rising demand from a niche group of young consumers. Jewellers are finding that these consumers come equipped with their own prices— and bargaining tactics—that they’ve researched online. In these cases, the best way to generate revenue from this demographic is through education, and the best place to start is social media outlets. Social media definitely plays a role in shaping the tastes of the younger generations. Jewellers are finding that easy access to this group of potential buyers increases brand awareness and, when used properly, can translate into sales. However, Michael Myslicki of Ready Mounts notes that while social media is effective in marketing jewellery to the younger generations, these online outlets also give a false sense of what is available and what jewellery costs. Younger people “see what a celebrity has, and want it,” he says. “These celebrities are getting diamonds that are totally out of the norm… that most people in the world could never afford. The media definitely puts pressure on the diamond buyer, as they feel they need to keep up with celebrities.” As for online sales, to determine whether consumers are heading to their computers rather than retail locations to purchase the diamond of their choice, it is important to focus on the way people purchase this item. “When you buy online, you buy by paper, says Hossein Bioukzadeh. “Sometimes the stone we see on paper is good, but when we see it up close, we don’t like it.“ Many retailers are resisting the online option because they believe that no two stones are the same and jewellery must be chosen by hand; however, other jewellers have clued into the fact that the online environment may soon evolve into their only outlet for sales.

“We don’t sell our jewellery directly online; however, we have great activity on our Facebook and Twitter pages,” says Nadav Attar. “We have plans of selling our jewellery online... Like in all other markets, it is inevitable.” This super-charged gem sparkles with tradition, politics and prestige. No wonder it is one of the highest selling, most rare and expensive jewels on the market. Even as the price continues to fluctuate with demand from top investors as well as youthful consumers trying to get their hands on something shiny and bright, diamonds will continue to generate revenue for jewellers. Trends will determine how far jewellers will be willing to go to package and re-package these classic stones for the public. In the end, however, the consumer will ultimately succeed in obtaining that precious sparkling gem, no matter what the cost. [CJ]

DIAMOND JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE Best Bargains 416.214.2582 www.bbjw.com

Imperial Gems & Jewels Ltd. 866. 211.7778 www.imperialgem.com

Midas Jewellery 416.955.9415 www.midasjewelleryinc.ca

Creation Le Grenier 888.388.4736 www.ethanstars.com

Kim International 800. 275.5555 www.kimint.com

Mirage Creations 877.BY MIRAGE www.miragecreations.com

E.R.L. Diamonds 604. 677.0703 www. canadapridediamonds.com

Lega Jewellery 514.845.0066 www.legajeweller.com

Ready Mounts 416.366.4046 www.readymounts.com

Lili Jewelry 212.302.0166 www.lilijewelry.com

Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com

Malo Creations 416.682.6561 www.maloinc.com

TIG Group 866. 682.6823 www.tiggroup.ca

Fantastic Fine Jewellery 647.345.5401 www.fantasticjewellerycanada.com

www.canadianjeweller.com

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ÂŠ 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.

For details, write #122 on Free Info Page, page 88

CMYK

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Savez-vous cjenfrançais

ce que vous achetez?

Ne vous fiez pas aux élégantes descriptions – sachez distinguer le vrai du faux

PAR CARMEN RIVET

our vendre leurs produits à gros prix, certaines compagnies utilisent parfois une terminologie qui porte à confusion dans le but très clair d’induire les consommateurs en erreur.

Selon moi, le plus bel exemple est sans doute les « Perles de Majorque ». On voit souvent dans leurs publicités « authentiques Perles de Majorque », des ‘secrets de la Méditerranée’, ‘savoir ancestral qui permet l’éclosion d’une beauté inégalée’. On va même jusqu’à dire ‘les perles de Majorque sont souvent imitées’. À Majorque, les entreprises ont été nombreuses à fabriquer ces perles en usine. À partir d’une bille de verre, on y ajoute des enduits dont la recette « secrète » est à base de plastiques dans lesquels on ajoute des dérivés de la mer – écailles de poissons, poudre de coquillage – ce qui leur permet de sous-entendre que le produit « provient de la nature ». On a beau vous dire « 100 % assemblées et nouées à la main sur l’Île de Majorque en Espagne », vous ne verrez malheureusement pas de mots clairs tels simili perles. Ces perles ne sont pas cultivées, elles sont fabriquées. Le fermoir qui n’a rien d’original est généralement plaqué or, tout comme les tiges et les papillons des boucles d’oreilles ou des fermoirs oméga. Mais quand c’est écrit sur cette belle publicité « en OR plaqué 14 carats », les yeux ont tendance à sauter le mot ‘plaqué’ et, qui plus est, cette description est contre la loi canadienne sur le poinçonnage des métaux précieux.

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Ajoutez-y des mots comme « raffi nement » et « élégance » dans un « précieux » écrin de velours avec la marque « inscrite en or », et bien des acheteurs pressés ne se poseront plus de questions, mais ils achèteront! Malheureusement, bien des femmes seront déçues, d’autant plus que les perles maintenant cultivées en eau douce sont parfois aussi belles que les similis pour le même prix. Recevoir des simili-perles en cadeau, c’est comme recevoir des fleurs de soie; l’émotion n’y est pas, le sentiment est… plastique! À l’époque de René Lalique, lorsque le verre était sculpté à la main, on admirait le travail du maître, la minutie, le raffi nement des détails, sa créativité et ses gigantesques pièces uniques. Un artiste désormais célèbre, mais les prix de ses nouveaux bijoux comptent maintenant beaucoup sur la réputation, la marque et le « branding ». Les bijoux vendus sous cette marque sont presque tous en argent 925 et s’ils sont de couleur or, ils sont donc en vermeil, ce qui signifie en argent plaqué or. Le « cristal » qui orne le bijou est en verre moulé (fabriqué en série) et fi ni à la main. Lorsqu’on décrit une bague « ornée d’un cabochon cristal ambre », notez qu’il ne s’agit pas d’ambre naturel, ni de cristal de roche (pierre naturelle, variété du quartz), mais bien d’un cabochon fabriqué en verre. Les designs sont toujours d’une originalité exceptionnelle, mais à quel prix pour un « cristal » qui n’est pas naturel! Une cliente m’a apporté une bague qu’elle avait payée environ 1 000 euros (autour de 1 500 $ CAD) pour faire réparer une demi-sphère de verre

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cjenfrançais

décollé de sa bague étroite, d’une belle sobriété, au design intéressant. Un peu ébréchée, la demi-sphère représentait un risque important en la replaçant, elle pouvait carrément se casser. J’ai donc avisé ma cliente que si cela se produisait, je lui fournirais un cabochon de citrine pour remplacer le morceau brisé. C’est à ce moment que j’ai réalisé que pour le même prix elle aurait pu avoir une bague en or de 14 ou même 18 carats avec des pierres véritables. Pourquoi les boutiques qui vendent ces produits n’off rent-elles aucun service de réparation, ni de mise de grandeur, ni de remise à neuf sur leurs propres produits, leur propre fabrication? Posez-vous la question… que vous reste-t-il lorsque le verre est ébréché ou brisé? Une autre marque qui vend des pièces fabriquées en verre, Swarovski et ses « cristaux » est de plus en plus populaire. Ces boutiques ou kiosques sont présents dans les grands centres d’achat. Voici un peu de copié-collé trouvé sur leur site qui vend en ligne : « aussi scintillante qu’un joyau grâce au cristal Ruby rouge vif et un pavé de cristaux clairs », « cristaux étincelants aux nuances Crystal Moonlight et White Opal sublimeront toutes les tenues de soirée avec une touche de glamour ». « Une somptueuse version petite de la bague Nirvana emblématique de Swarovski. Magnifiquement ouvragée en cristal Amethyst tendance, cette création argentée étincelle de toutes ses facettes. Son coloris élégant confère une note féminine et séductrice à toutes les tenues. » Encore là, les « cristaux » ne sont pas du cristal de roche, variété du Quartz. Le « cristal ruby rouge vif » est fait de verre contenant une riche quantité de

plomb, ce qui lui confère une belle dispersion. Quand on ajoute un enduit coloré « rouge vif » sous le verre qui est pareil à celui d’un miroir, il n’y a ni cristal, ni rubis dans ce bijou, encore moins de l’améthyste. C’est du verre, de la vitre, ça ne vient pas de la terre, ça vient d’une usine. Les consommateurs doivent savoir que les bijoux de cette marque ne sont pas en argent sterling. Ils ne peuvent donc pas être mis de grandeur, ni soudés. Si ça brise, poubelle. J’admirerai toujours les figurines Swarovski très décoratives, amusantes et originales. Elles sont pleine de vie, c’est un joli cadeau à off rir à ceux ou celles qui ont le temps d’épousseter. Mais leurs bijoux, c’est ce que ma mère appelle « du toc ». Il en faut, certains ne peuvent pas se permettre des bijoux à 2 000 $ la pièce et cette gamme de bijoux off re un relativement bon rapport qualité/prix. Je déplore simplement la nomenclature qui porte à confusion quand on appelle des billes de verres avec des noms de pierres véritables qui sont de même couleur. La description « en cristal Amethyst tendance », ne pourrait-elle pas appeler les choses par leurs noms : le verre Swarovski « de couleur mauve » tendance, ou utiliser des noms de fleurs ou fruits pour éloigner la confusion comme : le verre Swarovski scintillant aux couleurs « lilas » ou « raisin ». Simple, clair, précis. Les points sur les i et les barres sur les t. Que les gens sachent ce qu’ils achètent. Que les compagnies se respectent et respectent leurs clients. [CJ] WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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cjenfrançais

joaillerie L’art de la

Noam Carver est un sculpteur, designer et orfèvre dont les bijoux allient des motifs classiques et contemporains de partout au monde avec la majesté des ornements royaux. Ses conceptions ont mérité une multitude de prix.

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cjenfrançais

Un regard authentique sur l’industrie québecoise • Deuxième partie

n tant que collaborateur invité pour Canadian Jeweller, j’ai le plaisir de partager mon plus récent éditorial sur l’industrie de la joaillerie au Québec.

Dans le dernier numéro, j’ai présenté les divers parcours possibles afin de se lancer dans l’industrie de la joaillerie. J’ai également mentionné les difficultés associées à une carrière dans ce domaine et la passion nécessaire pour relever les défis auxquels un joaillier est confronté tout au long du processus. Dans cet éditorial, je discuterai de la nature de l’industrie, de son fonctionnement, de son réseau d’artisans et du code de conduite tacite qui doit être respecté afin de réussir dans le domaine. LES LIENS TISSÉS DE L’INDUSTRIE

J’ai toujours admiré le charme d’antan associé à l’art de l’artisanat. La qualité intemporelle du travail manuel destiné à la création d’un objet n’a pas changé avec le temps. La technologie a bien sûr influencé et modernisé les procédés de fabrication, mais l’essence demeure inchangée. L’industrie est composée d’un grand nombre d’artisans indépendants qui œuvrent ensemble, chacun un maillon dans une longue chaîne de production, contribuant une expertise unique. Modeleurs, couleurs, sertisseurs de pierres, facetteurs, artisans-joailliers, tailleurs de pierre, fournisseurs d’outils et gemmologistes travaillent ensemble pour créer un microcosme harmonieux qui représente l’industrie. Avec le temps, chaque joaillier établit son propre réseau privé qui lui permettra de réaliser toutes les étapes nécessaires pour créer le produit final. Dans la vie, il m’est évident qu’une personne ne peut pas tout accomplir seule. Selon moi, que ce soit une profession ou un métier, une compétence unique dans un domaine est un outil indispensable qui assure une sécurité professionnelle. Par exemple, je me penche sur la fabrication de modèles, la création ainsi que la réparation des bijoux. J’ai d’abord étudié la sculpture à la cire, puis le travail des métaux : brasage, remplissage et assemblage des pièces. De là, la prochaine étape logique était d’apprendre la conception CAO 3D. J’ai concentré mes efforts sur une spécialité dans le but de perfectionner mon métier et de parfaire mes connaissances. J’aurais aimé apprendre le sertissage et le moulage, mais j’ai appris à me fier aux autres pour m’aider avec les compétences que je ne possède pas. Mon réseau

individuel a donc été établi en créant de bonnes relations avec des artisans à qui je faisais confiance et sur lesquels je pouvais compter. Par ailleurs, je n’affirme pas qu’une personne ne puisse pas tout apprendre. Je connais des joailliers chevronnés qui peuvent couler, poser et créer d’excellents modèles. Cependant, une fois qu’on devient de plus en plus occupé, une équipe est nécessaire afin d’assurer une fabrication efficace. Au cours de ma carrière, j’ai eu l’occasion de travailler dans différents centres de joaillerie à travers le monde : à New York, Bangkok et Ramât Gan. Mes connaissances du métier m’ont permis de trouver un emploi rapidement et de me plonger dans de nouveaux milieux. Mes voyages m’ont permis d’observer que les relations étroites entre les artisans, ainsi que le réseau très uni à travers l’industrie sont présents partout. À première vue, l’industrie semble être une communauté exclusive qui est difficile à rejoindre, mais en réalité la plupart des joailliers sont ouverts aux rencontres avec de nouveaux contacts et à l’élargissement de leur entreprise. De nouvelles relations sont constamment développées au fur et à mesure que les nouveaux artisans entrent dans l’industrie. L’unique exigence universelle est l’honnêteté. Une bonne réputation est le fondement d’une carrière dans ce domaine. La nature fragile du produit et les risques associés au travail des matériaux précieux nécessitent énormément de confiance, qualité qui permet le bon fonctionnement de l’industrie. C’est ce code de conduite qu’il faut respecter pour protéger les joailliers du vol, assurant ainsi que les produits et services puissent être offerts. Au Québec, Montréal, et plus précisément Carré Philips, est le centre de l’industrie de joaillerie. En 1894, Birks & Sons ont établi leur entreprise et ont ouvert leur magasin au Carré Phillips. Alors que la marque prenait de plus en plus d’importance et l’entreprise commençait à établir sa réputation en tant que joaillier de renommée au Canada, des joailliers en provenance de partout à travers le monde ont immigré à Montréal pour s’établir au Carré Phillips. Ainsi, l’industrie est née et a connu une croissance fulgurante. Ce qui a débuté au 19e siècle existe toujours aujourd’hui et n’a pas beaucoup changé. Dans le petit quartier du Carré Phillips, il est toujours possible de trouver toutes les ressources nécessaires pour la fabrication de bijoux et de tisser des liens avec un grand nombre d’artisans qui chacun à leur façon contribuent au succès de l’industrie québécoise. [CJ]

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| February 2012

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2012trends

A recession recession-proof -proof

commodity Demand for high-end jewellery remains buoyant through boom or bust economies BY IRINA LYTCHAK

Stingray cuff ; 18kt white gold bangle with white diamonds and coloured sapphires, from Mindham Fine Jewellery

Stingray cuff ; 18kt white gold bangle with bead set diamonds in an icicle motif, from Mindham Fine Jewellery

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2012trends

he recent recession left a dent on many industries that drive the global market, including jewellery. Despite the various fi nancial woes felt by many Canadian jewellery retailers, it looks like the stars are aligned for this industry in 2012. Jewellery is a type of commodity that is still retailed even when the fi nancial market fluctuates. Not only is it always an ideal gift for that special someone; jewellery can also serve as a lifelong investment for several generations of a family. According to various jewellery retailers, people will continue to invest in beautiful jewellery no matter what storms the economy may be weathering. U.S. ECONOMY AFFECTS CANADIAN SALES

Moneca Kaufmann, owner of Kaufmann De Suisse in Montreal, says her business saw changes in sales after the U.S. economy took a hit from the recession—demonstrating the impact our south-of-the-border counterparts can have on us.

Flowing Lines Melange of Gemstones and Diamonds Ring, from Kaufmann de Suisse

“For our customers, there’s a lot less change, although there has been some,” says Kaufmann. “The economy in the U.S. fell drastically, and some of our clients who have big businesses with a lot of sales in the States saw their businesses pretty much collapse. Some clients just stopped buying watches, whereas they would buy jewellery more regularly.” PRICE POINTS MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Kaufmann points out that the varying price points of jewellery are defi nitely driving factors in sales, and ultimately determine how changes in the economy can affect the retailer. “I think in the general economy, there’s a correlation between income and jewellery purchases,” she says. “There’s a lot less elasticity. In other words, demand varies less for high-end jewellery because people who are wealthier tend to stay very wealthy and they don’t lose that much. We still have seen some wavering of demand in the upper echelons of the market, though —due to the recession in the States being far more wide-reaching than we’ve seen in previous downturns. A lot of industries were affected.” SPECIAL OCCASIONS

Mindham Fine Jewellery owner Myles Mindham also believes the jewellery industry will keep changing; however, people will always revel in special occasions where jewellery plays a big part.

23.08cts. Blue Topaz in luscious Flowing Lines 18k gold mount, from Kaufmann de Suisse

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| FEBRUARY 2012

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2012trends

“People are getting used to the markets fluctuating, and they are getting used to the difficult times,” says Mindham. “There are certain people who are tired of that and they want to get on with their lives, and there are still birthdays and anniversaries to be celebrated.” BUYING THROUGH GOOD TIMES AND BAD

It’s clear that a customer’s appreciation of all things beautiful and high-quality prevails even through hard times. “The fi rst time we had our economic crisis, the idea of showing any kind of ostentatious purchase was very looked down upon,” Mindham says. “But I’m fi nding, even since August, where the economy has been very shaky and very unstable with the European crisis, people still haven’t lost their taste for beautiful things. They’re not feeling as guilty. “Now, it’s not like the days of 2005 and 2006, when conspicuous consumption was absolutely so chic. Yet it’s certainly not like it was in 2008 and 2009 when real austerity was considered noble.” ALTERNATIVES TO GOLD AND SILVER

As a result of the rising cost of gold and silver, jewellers are looking to alternative products to maintain and improve sales.

16.50cts. Green Tourmaline and Diamond Flowing Lines Ring, from Kaufmann de Suisse

“The current prices of precious metals, platinum and gold are high, so I’m beginning to look to other vehicles to create with, such as iron and precious stones,” Mindham says. “We’re also looking at things like stingray, mahogany, ebony, Calcidone and black jade.” HIGH QUALITY COLOURED STONES

Jewellers such as Mindham confi rm that it’s not particular pieces but specific practices and traditions in jewellery production and manufacturing that have been trending the most for the past year. “There’s one key trend,” Mindham says, “and that’s very high quality. Clients will absolutely spend the money without even a blink of an eye if it’s very fi ne quality. “The second great trend is less expensive coloured stones. Customers are willing to explore things like morganite or heliodor, or garnet. They’re more interested in colours that are unique and that are less expensive.” Paul Hofland of Ph Design says, “The biggest trend I’ve been observing is silver in pieces like necklaces and bracelets. We’re seeing a lot more of that just because gold has gotten so expensive. But we’re also starting to see a lot more semi-precious stones, like amethyst and blue topaz. It all comes down to price point and if the pieces look good.”

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3.45cts. Aquamarine with crown of diamonds in 18k gold, from Kaufmann de Suisse

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2012trends

MAKE A STATEMENT

Moneca Kaufmann adds that her clients zeroed in on some very unique pieces this year. “Th ink colourful and original. I see people looking at more elaborate pieces,” she says. “People still want very wearable pieces they can wear day-to-day, but they also want something that makes a statement, something that’s noticeable.” Kaufmann points out that because she deals with mainly high-end jewellery items, the recent recession woes haven’t affected some of her regular clients, who will always want and purchase luxurious and expensive jewellery. “I think being in a higher-level category makes lavish jewellery even more attractive because clients feel they’re buying something that’s going up in price. They’re especially gearing towards diamonds and the idea of upgrading them. They want to add more stones, increase the price point and the karats.” OLD IS NEW AGAIN

When evaluating past sales and predicting what will fare well in the future, jewellery retailers have a very solid idea of what items and strategies will guarantee the most success for their own business. “I believe the trend is going to be to a very personalized expression of jewellery,” says Mindham. “Because we have our production facilities in-house now, we’re really going to focus on people re-doing, renewing and re-creating items they own. As much as the economy is rolling along, I have been encouraging a lot of my clients to bring in things they don’t wear anymore and re-do and repurpose them to make them more suited to today’s tastes.” For Kaufmann, her biggest focus for the new year will be diamonds. “I think diamonds will continue to be a very important investment,” she says. “They are a very safe-haven type of investment in the sense that you have them in your pocket. You can take them anywhere. It’s like insurance against calamity.”

“Diamonds are an emotional investment,” says Kaufmann. “It’s a good investment because you’re offering the one you love a certain security.” In terms of how to optimize future sales, Kaufmann says her biggest tactic is to buy other people’s jewellery. “Right now I like to buy people’s gems because there’s a slight downturn. Everyone needs money, so they all want to sell their jewellery,” she says. “I’m a buyer, and so I buy it and get good value. I help people with their cash flow, and by buying at good prices, I can offer my clients good prices also. Buying is an investment for the future. Just like I encourage my clients to buy, I’m buying too.” Kaufmann De Suisse is looking to 2012 with an optimistic eye. Its sales increased almost 50 per cent last year because it was able to make some valuable sales. “I think the key is to make sure you’re serving your clients with great integrity,” says Kaufmann. “They can have the confidence and trust they deserve to have in a jeweller. That’s what I’m after, to really make sure they leave here with something they love.” RESOURCEFUL AND IMAGINATIVE

Myles Mindham believes resourcefulness is a jeweller’s greatest asset when it comes to planning for the future. “I think that we as retailers have to be extremely imaginative, resourceful and disciplined in what we’re doing,” he says. “That is what it’s going to take to get us through these next couple of years.” [CJ]

Stingray cuffs; 18kt white gold bangle with black and white diamond flowers, from Mindham Fine Jewellery

DIAMONDS, DIAMONDS

Kaufmann suggests that if the U.S. dollar drops in the future, diamonds will always retain their value, anywhere in the world, and in any currency, simply due to their inherent rarity and for being one of the most limited deposits on the planet.

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| FEBRUARY 2012

1/26/12 1:10:14 PM

education

Easy ways to get up to speed on new technology and retail management techniques By E. Z. Guler-Tuck

oday’s jewellery industry is more sophisticated than ever. CAD/CAM design tools are finding their way into almost every retail outlet. Cutting-edge technological advances are making milling, casting and welding machines more readily accessible. And with the heightened demands of the competitive market and the constantly evolving needs of the well-researched and educated customer, retailers who are not so eager to change are being left behind. A passion for the trade is the driving force for many experienced jewellers; however, to continue to be experts in the business, jewellers know they must educate themselves on everything necessary to stay on top of their game.

be better

School

ROCKS

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Luckily, many opportunities are available for Canadian retailers wanting to educate themselves and their staff on everything from milling to computer-assisted design, and even business management. Canada’s top educational institutions offer intensive training, for the new generation of jewellery professionals, and for seasoned jewellers looking to brush up on their existing skills. “Although jewellers sell physical products, the jewellery industry is first and foremost a knowledge-based industry,” says Alexandre Laferrière, co-owner of Laferrière & Brixi Diamantaires Inc. “In today’s context, where consumers are better educated and have easy access to information via the Web, it is of the utmost importance that jewellers be better informed and better trained than the clients they serve, to maintain trust and make sales. It is therefore knowledge that forms the bond of trust between a consumer and a jeweller.”

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education

Technical knowledge of the products and processes of jewellery making are not the only key to success. Business savvy and retail management know-how carry weight in this industry, as they determine whether the business “sinks or swims” in the sector. “Today’s jewellery trade is facing a number of issues such as rapid market changes, new products and technologies, fraud and misrepresentation by suppliers and lack of consumer information,” says Wolf Kuehn, Director of Education at the Canadian Institute of Gemmology in Vancouver, Jewellers and their staff must be armed and ready to deal with these kinds of issues, in addition to the day-to-day challenges of any small or large enterprise. Back to school

In the past, most jewellery-related courses were embedded in the curricula of fashion design programs. Now an increasing number of Canadian institutions are offering programs geared specifically to the jewellery sector: • The Ontario College of Art & Design (OCAD) in Toronto offers the Material Art & Design (MADD) Program, with “a traditional and contemporary studio-based education in ceramic, fibre, jewellery, and metalsmithing processes. The goal is to prepare students for professional practice,” says Ken Vickerson, RCA, Associate Professor, Chair-Material Art & Design, Faculty of Design. “The curriculum taught has been developed to meet the needs of craft practitioners in multiple art and design fields, which include small batch production, oneof-a-kind and custom functional and wearable object-making, gallery exhibiting, critical design, and designing for interiors and industry.” The focus of this program is not only on working with materials, but also on learning practical retail skills such as display, merchandising and marketing.

• George Brown College’s Jewellery Studies program in Toronto is no slouch, and has been around for 40 years, teaching students “traditional goldsmithing skills while encouraging artistic vision and creative development,” says Paul McClure, Professor and Co-Chair of Jewellery Studies at George Brown. Classes the program offers include basic to advanced goldsmithing techniques, gemsetting, repair, model making, gemmology, jewellery design, history, rendering, and computer aided design/manufacture (CAD/CAM). The new mentorship program being developed for 2012 will bring Jewellery Studies students closer to their industry, whereby, “students will gain valuable external critiques of their work while also getting exposure to current practices and opportunities in the jewellery industry,” McClure says. “Industry professionals will gain insight into jewellery studies course work, to be able to provide feedback on program development and currency in partnership with George Brown.” • In Barrie, Ontario, Georgian College offers students a post-grad program, and a separate full-time program with an emphasis on technical jewellery skills (such as soldering and filing), drawing and design, casting, repairs, gemmology, metalsmithing, stone-setting and a professional practice class (small studio management). Greg Merrall, Coordinator of Jewellery and Metals Programmes, says that Georgian’s School of Design and Visual Art “demonstrates the importance of off-site learning, with yearly visits to the Gem & Mineral Show in Tucson, and a special trip to London, England this school term.” • The Canadian Institute of Gemmology in Vancouver is another institution that aims to assist its students in finding suitable employment in the jewellery field. Its courses “provide necessary product knowledge in diamonds, gems and jewellery, and allow students to explore opportunities in gemmologyrelated areas such as gem identification and appraising,” says the Institute’s Wolf Kuehn. “The courses are designed to accommodate beginners, as well as students already working in jewellery-related fields.”

For details, write #122 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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| february 2012

1/26/12 3:17:34 PM

education • Also in Vancouver, LaSalle College International provides students with a specialized jewellery design program that has a strong focus on metal work and beading, illustration, and some marketing and multimedia.

techniques that retailers feel is a product of years of dedication to the jewellery industry. Other young professionals simply have not yet developed that customer-centric approach to the business.

• The main focus of the education programs of California’s Gemological Association of America is to protect the public trust in gemstone purchases by educating professionals who can accurately describe to consumers exactly what they are buying. Basically, the Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma program “comes down to creating knowledgeable sales staff and retailers who can make consumers feel confident about their purchases,” says Vice President and Chief Learning Officer, Bev Hori. “Confidence is the ultimate sales tool, isn’t it.?”

“I think the days of the jewellery clerk are gone, and it is the day of the highly trained jewellery professional,” says Brad Huisken of IAS Training in the U.S.

Training to be adaptable

“There is a growing need for graduates to be fluent in both traditional and new studio techniques; to have a strong entrepreneurial spirit and competence; and to collaborate with other disciplines,” says Ken Vickerson, OCAD.

Jewellers carry the heavy yet important burden of having to stay abreast of industry trends and developments, while at the same time ensuring that the people they have hired are fully trained to understand and adapt to these industry changes, effectively drive the brand and meet customer needs. “Satisfying customers’ needs, determining what they want and being able to facilitate it, continual training, educational seminars for new processes, equipment, techniques and sources,” are necessary for success in the sector, says David Barthau of Barthau Jewellers.

As jewellers build their artillery, front-line staff become their biggest asset. Thus, training staff on everything from telephone manner to team work, dressing for the job to upselling, becomes crucial to the success of each employee, and in turn, the progress of the company.

While students charge their way through the challenging requirements of gemmology and jewellery design programs, many students who study to become gemmologists must be prepared to work their way up the ladder in order to eventually make gemmology their regular profession.

When it comes to training staff, it has never been so easy. Manufacturers and software developers are stepping up to the plate to offer a wide variety of seminars and workshops to assist retailers with the use of software and equipment.

Wolf Kuehn reminds graduates that, “it will be difficult to find employment as a gemmologist; and [that they will have to] work in a jewellery-related field for several years to gain the practical experience for becoming a competent gemmologist.”

Companies such as Gemvision, McNeel North America and Schindler Technologies Corporation provide full support and training for a variety of software, as well as machining.

make it sustainable

• Gemvision specializes in training for Matrix (including T-Splines), with online tutorials for CounterSketch, and Milling Solutions with CAM systems, such as Gemvision’s Revo540C Mill. • In addition to training professionals on modelling with Rhino and RhinoGold, and rendering with Flamingo, Schindler provides CNC machining education. • McNeel offers a selection of courses for all skill levels and specialty design categories, such as Rhino for architecture or designers. McNeel’s training focuses on 3D design with Rhino and RhinoGold, T-Splines modelling skills for Rhino, CNC machining with RhinoCAM/VisualMill, and NURBS modelling and rendering.

Recently, the jewellery industry has been making a significant, and responsible shift toward the use of sustainable materials, and the application of environmentally friendly methods. As a result, educational institutions are incorporating the fundamentals of sustainability into their curricula. “Significant development is happening around environmental and ethical practices in the sourcing of jewellery materials,” says Paul McClure, George Brown College. “Students are aware of these issues and want to be part of the shift to a more sustainable jewellery industry and product.” The college offers a Material Innovations course that has students focus on “the social/environmental impact of refining, plating and mining, and making informed choices in their jewellery practice,” says Shona Kearney, Professor of Jewellery Studies.

Need to succeed

Above and beyond the constant fluctuation of gold and silver prices, the light speed at which the CAD/CAM revolution is evolving, and the everyday business challenges of the retail sector, retailers still struggle to find well-trained, skilled professionals, in the field, who can keep up. Many of their staff lack the passion and familiarity with old-school

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In this business, awareness of the environment, the materials used, and sustainable practices seem to be the final frontier, and education is king. Thus, it is crucial that jewellery professionals—from recent graduates to veterans of the sector—continually ramp up their skills and knowledge [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

1/26/12 10:51:54 AM

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companyprofile | lilijewelry

Meteor Cut® ring (top view) from Lili Jewelry

Diamond

DREAMS

Lili Jewelry brings together some of the best and brightest to create and market diamond showstoppers By Lynne Shuttleworth

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ike many businesses, Lili Jewelry went through hard times during the recent global recession. “The year 2009 was a difficult one for us; however, business grew significantly in 2010 and 2011,” says the company’s marketing manager, Nadav Attar. He’s looking optimistically to the future. “Today our numbers are back where they were prior to the financial crisis, and we hope that 2012 will be even better.”

The cut is key

Lili Jewelry, located in the dynamic, modern city of Ramat Gan, Israel, opened its doors in 2002. It’s the design and manufacturing arm of Lili Diamonds, which over 50 years has made an impact around the world with its unique patented diamond cuts. It imports rough diamonds from Belgium, Africa, Russia, Canada, Brazil and Australia.

www.canadianjeweller.com

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lilijewelry | companyprofile

Right: Orchidea Cut® ring (top view) from Lili Jewelry Below: Lily Cut® ring (top view) from Lili Jewelry

Lily Cut® necklace from Lili Jewelry

So it made sense for Lili Diamonds to parlay the company’s reputation for fabulous diamonds into a new business that offered jewellery made from those diamonds. With an ace team of gemologists, stone cutters and polishers already in place, all it required was adding talented designers to the lineup. Along with customer service specialists, they would help garner credibility and accolades for Lili Jewelry. Jewellery demand jumped

Those efforts have paid off. “The jewellery department is growing very quickly thanks to a huge demand from the markets,” Attar says. Lili’s biggest markets are the Far East and the U.S., with the EU market also growing rapidly. Last year, Lili was even named #8 in the world’s top 10 diamond brands. Apart from the fact that the products are beautiful, stylish and desirable, there’s another reason for the company’s success. “We’re team players, so it’s not only a one-man show,” says Attar. The team thrives on personalized service for customers. “When a client is looking for something special, he knows that Lili is the right place to fulfill his dream,” says Attar. Not like the rest

The uniqueness of Lili Jewelry is also a big factor in the company’s success. “We provide diamonds which are different than traditional cuts,” Attar says. “All our special cuts are trademarked and registered.” Those cuts include the Crisscut®, Crisscut® Cushion, Wondercut®, Meteor Cut®, Lily Cut® and Orchidea® Cut (the last two are only sold embedded into jewellery pieces under Lili Jewelry). As well, Lili places a special emphasis on marketing. “It’s one of the main

keystones to success,” Attar says. “Through marketing, we promote our brand, our diamonds and our jewellery.” A star is born

Integral to Lili’s marketing campaign is the new tagline, “Find your Star.” Attar explains what it means: “We call each of our unique diamonds a star. They are our stars because they make dreams come true for our clientele. Therefore, each of our clients can find his or her own star.” Lili Jewelry creates rings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants and watches –all featuring stunning diamonds. These kinds of products can almost sell themselves, though not quite. It takes a long-term vision to stay with your business, promote your products, and keep your focus on continuously coming up with leading-edge designs that will appeal to a wide range of global customers. A family affair

In fact, persistence has paid off for Lili. The company was founded more than 50 years ago by the Siman-Tov brothers, and is still owned by the family; the second generation now works in the business. Lili has the biggest diamond polishing factory in Israel, and manufactures only in Israel, rather than relocating to Asia. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com

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| February 2012

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designerprofile | CaraCotter

Celebr ating the gifts of nature

Cara Cotter designs unique, detailed pieces with eye-catching colourful gemstones and precious metals BY BONNIE SIEGLER

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ara Cotter got into jewellery designing by dreaming big. The Alberta small-town native, now based in Edmonton, had no formal jewellery training. Instead, she learned about jewellery by watching YouTube videos on jewellery design, and reading countless lapidary books. She even travelled to the Tucson Gem Show, and Asian markets, to come up with ideas and find out about current trends. In 2004, Cotter began making her first piece: a simple bracelet crafted with five different coloured nuggets ranging from amazonite to olive jade and rose quartz. Within a few months’ time, she was selling in stores. “By 2006, I was in 10 stores in western Canada,” says the founder of So Pretty Jewellery by Cara Cotter. STYLISH GRANDPARENTS

Her first inspiration in jewellery-making was her grandparents, who were always stylishly dressed. “What I noticed was their beautiful accessories,” she recalls. Now the mother of two small boys, she says she always had the same love of fashion as her grandparents, and started making jewellery as a hobby. From an early age, Cotter appreciated anything that was well made, whether by cooking, baking or sewing. “As I got older, I searched for a creative outlet and coincidentally purchased some locally made gemstone jewellery,” she says. She had an immediate epiphany about what she wanted to do for a living, and after doing some brief research, she placed an order for gemstones and supplies. FEMININE DESIGNS

Cotter draws inspiration from nature and organic materials, celebrating them in the feminine designs of every piece she makes, especially those with gemstones. “They are effortlessly pretty with a weight and sparkle unlike anything synthetic,” she says. “I try to design pieces with details—in a very modern, clean way to showcase the gems. All of my designs are a labour of love. Architecture, textures, patterns, colour combinations, fashion, interior

CaraCotter | designerprofile

design and of course, nature, all influence me and my ideas,” she explains. “Anything with beauty can be incorporated into a design.” Cotter says she loves the blend of 24k gold-plated sterling silver from Thailand, Bali and India, or rose gold vermeil with bold colours. “It gives you a strong and refreshing feeling,” she says. “Gold with bright orange, blue, green and purple are all very regal, and the brightness of them cheers me up, especially during a long Canadian winter. Yet I like the warmth of gold mixed with soft, cool colours such as light pink and blue, as well.” DARING AND CONFIDENT

Cotter designs in many different colours to appeal to as many people as possible. As for who prefers what colour, she says, “Colour is such a personal choice and people gravitate toward certain gems for many different reasons. Yet I do think that daring and confident personalities gravitate to pieces with more colour or that are larger in size.” For 2012, Cotter plans to design collar necklaces, and cuff bracelets featuring a sizeable portion of emerald green, bright blue lapis and orange chalcedony. “I will continue to use a lot of architectural elements, bold pops of colour and rose gold,” she says. CHANGE IT UP

She’s also designing more pieces that can be worn in many ways. For example, her long beaded necklaces in gemstones, silver, gold or rose gold can be worn with various charms, or “the charms can be taken off so you can wear the necklace by itself, double it for a shorter look or even as a wrap bracelet,” Cotter explains. Cotter’s plans include expanding within the Canadian marketplace. “It’s important to me to partner with good quality store owners who are progressive, have modern collections, offer fantastic service and put forward a unique fashion experience,” she says. “When someone wears So Pretty Jewellery, I hope they feel wonderful about themselves and make everyone around them feel the same.” [CJ]

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globalviewpoint

India: Tiger of the jewellery world Technology simplifies doing business with this jewellery and gemstone hotspot By Gord Henning

ndia. The word alone conjures up exotic imagery of tigers, brightly coloured saris and delicately wrought 22k gold jewellery. India’s love of gold and gems is thought to date back thousands of years. It’s resulted in a burgeoning industry that employs at least 800,000 people in the diamond sector alone. The country exported gems and jewellery with a value of approximately $43 billion in the 2010-2011 Indian fiscal year, which runs from April to March. This is forecast to increase 15 to 20 per cent this fiscal year. “It’s very much a growing market,” says Pramod Mittal of Creative Gems, Inc., a Toronto supplier who imports finished stones from his family’s factory in India. There, his factory cuts and polishes precious and semi-precious stones using skilled local labour. “They all used to cut by hand – now they use machines. Technology is playing a growing role.”

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TECHNOLOGY TRUMPS TRAVEL

Technology is also playing a growing role in doing business with India, simplifying transactions and minimizing travel. “In the past, my dad actually had to go to the mines to buy gems,” says Anita Agrawal from Best Bargains, a Toronto-based gem and jewellery wholesaler. “Now you have contacts in your network, ones you trust, and you just send an email or make a phone call to do business.” The Internet makes it easier and quicker for any Canadian jeweller to find the perfect gem. “If someone came to us 10 years ago and asked us for a specific stone, we’d say ‘Oh, I’m sorry,’” Agrawal says. “Now with the globalized network, when people come looking for something specific, we can go to our suppliers in India and quickly source the stone they’re looking for.”

Smoky quartz earrings, with cabachon and checkerboard faceted stones. 14k gold. Handmade in Canada. Gemstones from India. Best Bargains.

next decade. Diamond mining originated in India as far back as 296 BC. However, today almost all of India’s diamonds are imported. In December 2011, the Canadian government oversaw the signing of a pact to build direct links between our diamond producers and the Indian market.

INCREDIBLE CUTTING SKILLS

Agrawal says the cutting industry is highly skilled in India: “The product and consistency is really incredible.” Gems come from all over the world to be processed in India. For example, Agrawal says the champagne diamonds Best Bargains supplies to its clients and uses in its jewellery are mined in Australia, and then cut in India. The country currently cuts and polishes 14 out of every 15 diamonds set in jewellery worldwide. In the past, most of these stones would be exported. However, Mittal sees that changing: “The local market in India used to be only 22k gold. Now they want diamonds, emeralds, rubies; they want everything.” DIAMONDS SHINE ON

The Indian appetite for diamonds, paired with Chinese demand, is expected to grow global demand by more than six percent a year over the

Most gem importers say the difference in price between buying Indian-cut gems in Canada and securing them in India is minimal these days, in the global marketplace. “That’s true,” says Mittal. “We try to keep the profit low. We have to think about the Canadian jeweller too.” HEAD FOR JAIPUR

For those who do make the trek to India, your destination should be Jaipur. Known as the Pink City, it is the capital of the Indian state of Rajasthan. A planned city with broad boulevards, it has been the gem and jewellery capital of India for generations. It’s wise to come with a personal introduction or contact already in place; even then, it’s best to shop around, advises Agrawal. “The prices really vary, you can get the exact same product for a wildly different price,” she says. Besides Jaipur, the Indian cities of Hyperabad and Surat are renowned for pearls and diamonds, respectively. WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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globalviewpoint Business between India and Canada is currently lopsided. Little business flows the other way: bringing Canadian goods to India. That may soon change. With a middle class that’s expected to swell to more than 500 million by 2025 from a current figure of approximately 58 million, India will be a sizable market that jewellery designers and manufacturers clearly will love to sell to. To export goods into India, the duties are reasonably low: 11.43 per cent for silver, gold and platinum jewellery; 5 per cent for cut and polished coloured gemstones and semi-precious stones; and finished diamonds are duty-free. TRADE SHOWS MAKE IT EASY

If you are looking to start doing business directly with India, a good entry point is trade shows, says Agrawal. “Going to trade shows is always beneficial, because only the best of the best show up, so you know you’re dealing with reputable operators.” The elephant of trade shows over there is the India International Jewellery Show, its 29th edition being held in 2012. It’s not just India’s biggest jewellery show, it’s the third largest in Asia. More than 400 leading jewellery companies from cities across India, including Surat, Mumbai, Jaipur, New Delhi and Bangalore, come to showcase their wares. Attended by an estimated 15,000 people in the industry, it provides an exceptional promotional platform for anyone looking to make inroads into the Indian marketplace. Semi-precious quartz, citrine and amethyst necklace. 14k gold, with cut briolette gemstones. Handmade in Canada. Gemstones from India. Best Bargains.

A GOLDEN CULTURE The people of India love gold. According to research done by Macquarie, an Australiabased international financial conglomerate, Indian households have squirreled away more than 18,000 metric tons of gold, worth close to $1 trillion in today’s market. Gold is not only used as an investment vehicle in India, it is used in jewellery to mark occasions such as weddings, demonstrating a family’s status while making up part of the dowry. Indians believe that a bride wearing 24k gold brings luck and happiness to the marriage.

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The recent increase in the price of gold has coincided with a drop in the value of the Indian rupee, a decrease seen by some to be partially caused by the domestic demand for gold—ranked as India’s third largest import, after oil and capital goods—which widens the country’s current account deficit and devalues the currency. And some see indications that demand is weakening, the result of gold’s spiraling cost.

Another big trade show is the IIJS Signature show in Mumbai, which recently concluded this year’s edition in January. Feedback from this show indicates that Indian jewellery retailers are gravitating toward jewellery designs that contain less gold, which has spiralled in cost. Lightweight, yellow gold items with long gentle curves and lower colour diamonds are popular, while floral designs continue to appeal to buyers, particularly ones with mixed gold colours. No matter what you do, if you’re in the jewellery industry, it ‘s going to become tougher to ignore the impact of India on the marketplace, both as a supplier and as a rapidly growing market. [CJ]

In the jewellery market, a reaction to the price of gold is starting to be seen: slimmer designs using less gold.

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jvcfeature

Learnings from 2011 Although the year set a record in Canadian jewellery crime, police forces solved many cases successfully BY JOHN LAMONT, DIRECTOR OF CRIME PREVENTION, JVC

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jvcfeature

Since we’re at the start of a new year, it’s a fitting time to review the past year to learn how we can make a positive impact on the future. John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention, takes a look at the successes and frustrations of dealing with criminals in 2011. This year, our goal for JVC’s Crime Prevention Program—started more than a decade ago—is to become a meaningful part of every Canadian jeweller’s business. - Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC)

he month of January, 2011 appeared to set the stage for a disastrous and record-setting year in jewellery crime, with major armed robberies happening throughout Canada. One of the biggest ones took place in Mississauga, Ontario, where several masked men armed with handguns robbed an independent jeweller. Other major armed robberies took place in Edmonton, Oshawa, Cooksville, Guelph, Nanaimo, Dundas and Waterloo. Cases of break and enter, as well as theft reports to Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), were on the increase. However, in March, 2011, Peel Regional Police made a number of arrests in connection with a $1 million robbery. Also, Waterloo Regional Police were successful in apprehending an individual responsible for robberies in southwestern Ontario. On the west coast, Vancouver police were successful in bringing an end to a rash of serious armed robberies of jewellery stores in the Vancouver area.

• At the end of November 2011, a thief who stole a $20,000 diamond victimized a jeweller at West Edmonton Mall. Th is jeweller was not a member of the JVC network. Still, another jewellery retailer passed on the information to JVC. When JVC contacted the owner of the retail store, he said he had phoned the police right after the incident and was told they were too busy at the time, and to call back later. He phoned a second time and again was told they were too busy; however, on his way home he passed two radar traps. As unfortunate as this situation is, it may have more to do with police budgets than police interest. When JVC called Edmonton Police back and complained about the situation, we were told it would be looked into and an officer would be dispatched.

At the same time, South American gangs were still active in parts of Calgary and Edmonton; due to major investigations by police throughout Canada, however, these types of robberies were not as prevalent as in the previous year.

• Recently, after a long and costly investigation by Waterloo Regional Police and Guelph police, an individual was arrested for two major jewellery store robberies where guns were used, store staff threatened and terrorized, and large amounts of jewellery stolen. Even with strong evidence such as DNA, the accused was released on bail. Within a short period of time, he went to St. Catharines with another individual and committed another robbery. In this case, a jeweller was shot. Fortunately, the jeweller survived the attack.

The year ended with more incidents being reported to JVC.

REVOLVING DOOR

The actual dollar amount of losses for 2011 was slightly higher than in 2010: $7,639,281 in 2010 and $7,912,106 for 2011. IMPROVING COMMUNICATION

Since JVC’s inception in 2000, we have come a long way with our Crime Prevention Program. At the beginning, communication with police was difficult. They did not know us. Now JVC has become a major sponsor of police investigators’ seminars throughout Canada. Experienced investigators such as Cpl. Kelly Ross, RCMP and Det. Cst. Douglas Bedford of the York Regional Police are suggesting to other jewellery crime investigators that one of the fi rst things they should do in any jewellery investigation is contact JVC. Even the New York City Police South American Gang Squad has become part of JVC’s Alert Network. Th is has strengthened our communication link with police. There are other problems we are trying to address with the justice system. The following are a couple of examples:

Apprehension of jewellery thieves and their incarceration is one of the best forms of loss prevention; however, a whole new set of problems comes into play. Many jewellery criminals are recidivists caught in the revolving door system of justice. Our courts in many cases are not handing out sentences that would deter this type of crime. Julian Fantino, former Chief of Police for London, Ontario; York Region; and Toronto, and Commissioner of the OPP (Ontario Police Force) has written a book called Duty: The Life of a Cop. In it, he mentions his frustration with trying to get significant sentences for criminals who commit serious crimes against the public. They need to be kept in jail for the sentences they are given, he says, instead of getting parole after they’ve served only one sixth of their sentence. He talks of the number of politicians he wrote to with his concerns and complaints and received little, and sometimes no response. Th is is the Chief of Police! We as an association must continue to lend our support. Although we have come a long way, we still have a long way to go. [CJ] WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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| FEBRUARY 2012

www.canadianjeweller.com

1/26/12 2:03:34 PM

Sam Salehi President

Dynamic Gems Group Inc Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery www.dynamicgems.com

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010 • (416) 306 0705 Fax: (416) 777 0021 • Cell: (416) 566 5579 Email: ssalehi@live.com

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3:11 PM

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Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

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CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

94-103.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 84

www.canadianjeweller.com

1/26/12 2:03:44 PM

Gold Marketplace ad

Calling all Canadian Jewellery Retailers...

DECE MB JANU ER 2011/ A RY 2 012

for th e bus in

LE CO FRANÇIN

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since

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You’ve probably noticed a PLUS: EX CELLEN CE IN D ESIGN change in Canadian Jeweller covers the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of the top retailers in the industry. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you. Dmitry Kapla mith, Ed monton n, AB

ro Golds

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SCAN ME TO OUR TO GO WEBS ITE

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94-103.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 85

| FEBRUARY 2012

1/26/12 2:03:55 PM

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

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Armandor Enterprises Inc. New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: info@akbgold.com New Website: www.akbgold.com New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

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classified A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Jewellery Store For Sale With Building

Beautiful store in Ontario’s cottage country. Established location in key area, servicing loyal tourists and residents. Includes refurbished building with apartments revenue. Owners retiring. $500,000 or best offer. See www.alexandersjewellery.com/ store Call Sarah (519)534-1166

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

94-103.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 86

FOR SALE

Jewellery store for sale, retiring after 35 years. Turnkey store, low overhead, no percentage rents, 950 square feet, 33 store shopping center with or without stock. Tsawwassen, BC, suburb of Vancouver. Tel.: 604-943-4941

GOLDSMITH WANTED IN WINNIPEG

Sutton/Smithworks is a busy goldsmith/ jewellery store specializing in custom makeups, casting, repairs, remounts and more. We are seeking a skilled individual that is motivated and competent in stone setting, custom work and all types of repairs. Please contact us at suttons@mts.net

www.canadianjeweller.com

1/26/12 2:04:02 PM

For details, write #126 on Free Info Page, page 88 TIG-ImperialPearls-CanadianJeweller.indd 1 CJFeb2012_TIG_Group_FP_ad.indd 1

Phone: 1.866.682.6823

Email: pascal@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca

11-05-10 11:38 AM 1/26/12 1:56:51 PM

PAGE

088

GET FREE INFORMATION!

on any product advertised in this issue

2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

BY FAX OR MAIL CONNECT WITH…

page

24 Gold Group GIA Midas Jewellery Lili Diamonds Imperial Gems and Jewels Creation De Grenier Best Bargains E.R.L. Diamonds Jewelers Mutual Ready Mounts Nova Diamonds Stuller Kim International LEGA TD Canada Trust MCD Pearls Bullion Mart Rousseau Chains Noble Gift Packaging Lotus Jewellery Polygon Malo Creations Smokecloak

2 3 4-5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 22-23 25 27 29 30 31 32 33 38-39 41 54-55 65

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

CONNECT WITH…

write #

101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123

FREE

sectionhead

Stuller JVC Imperial Pearls JA New York Elle Jewelry Mirage Creation De Grenier Malo Creations Midas GIA Nova Diamonds Lili Jewellery Ready Mounts 24 Gold Group Best Bargains Stuller Imperial Coloured Diamonds Kim International Elle Jewelry Collection Kameleon Jewelry Polygon Jewelers Mutual

124 125 126 127 128 129 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155

Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine STEP 1

STEP 2

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

To qualify, check circles:

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Which category best describes your business classification?  Education  Retailer  Manufacturer  Wholesaler  Importer  Designer  Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)  Other: ________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Number of employees at your location  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

Number of locations: ______________________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

STEP 3

67 75 87 89 91 92 14 14 14 14 16 16 16 16 18 18 18 18 20 20 20 20

 No, don’t send Selling area of your store  under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume  under $500,000  $500,000 - $1 million  $1 million - $5 million  $5 million - $10 million  $10 million - $20 million  over $20 million Categories you personally manage  Retailer  Designer  Gemologist  Supplier  Manufacturer  Other _________________________________

Reserved exclusively for retailers

FEBRUARY 2012 WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

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101

STEP 4

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8 88

CJ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 2 |

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

1/26/12 3:01:42 PM

Where the business of jewelry takes shape.

JA New York does â&#x20AC;&#x153;newâ&#x20AC;? like only

For details, write #127 on Free Info Page, page 88

New York can, showcasing the designs, collections and trends that are shaping the jewelry industry. Attend the show for the up-and-coming designers, distinctive lines and unique items that will setyour store apart.

29-31 July 2012 The Javits Center NYC Smartly styled. Cleanly edited. Freshly re-imagined.

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1/26/12 1:57:51 PM

lastword

A Floral Fairytale

A flower is a thing of splendour by its own standards. When it serves as inspiration for a stunning pendant, the result is a piece of jewellery that radiates a beauty beyond words. The ‘Flora’s Secret’ brooch from Crevoshay, embellished with a kaleidoscopic myriad of pink tourmaline, garnet and amethyst, is unquestionably a dazzling sight that appears only in the best dreams. Retails at US $36,900. - Irina Lytchak

CJ F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

106.CJ_LastWord.indd 90

www.canadianjeweller.com

1/26/12 10:35:55 AM

CJFeb2012_PAJ_ELLE_FP_ad.indd 1

1/26/12 1:59:03 PM

For details, write #128 on Free Info Page, page 88

For details, write #129 on Free Info Page, page 88 CJFEB2012_Mirage_OBC_ad.indd 1

Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

1/26/12 1:02:48 PM