TAKE OFF in a jig-saw like over-lock. If you prefer (and have the time) you can stop first at Gwalior and visit its extraordinary hilltop fortress, easily the most breathtaking of its kind. Both the Chaturbhuj (a Vishnu) temple and the Teli-ka-Mandir inside the fort date back to the 9th Century though the fort itself is believed to be at least a hundred years older. Gwalior is only a hundred kilometers north of Jhansi, so if you can conjure up a vehicle of your own (or one with a driver) and are happy to cover distance then visit Chanderi via Shivpuri on the way to Jhansi. You will pass through the thickly forested Madhav National Park on this route—the whole region that surrounds Chanderi was historically lush with forest cover (legend even has it that it took the early mughal emperor, Babur, six months just to locate the fort here). The forests have thinned since and the fort (a largely Muslim construction), which looks down upon the modern town, is exposed and unimpressive, although there is a rather unique gateway—the ‘Katti-Ghatti’— that comes in from the hill side. The Chanderi of today has a newer reputation however for its fine handspun and handwoven saris with traditional folk motifs and delicate pastel colours—though this craft too is thinning steadily. Go visit a weaver’s household, they are genuinely welcoming and warm here. Jhansi too, like most other cities here, has a fort of its own, this one being famous as the stronghold of Rani Lakshmi Bai during the revolt of 1857. There is little else of interest here however and I made my way on to Orchha immediately, which is less than an hour away and definitely worth a visit. Orchha The enormous Orchha fort (strange when you learn that Orchha means ‘hidden’) caught me unawares as I got off the bus. A daunting structure behind a massive battlement wall, it was built by a Bundela chief, Rudra Pratap Singh, in the early 16th Century. A myth traces the Bundela dynasty back further to an 11th Century Rajput prince, who offered to sacrifice himself for the mountain goddess Vrindavasini. She interceded and
Getting There: By Air—both Khajuraho as well as Gwalior have airports with daily flights in from Delhi. You can get from Chennai to Jhansi by train as well: the daily trains Grand Trunk Exp (2615) and the Tamil Nadu Exp (2621) stop at Jhansi (about 24 hours) as well as Gwalior (26 hrs), though the Chennai Rajhdhani (2433) to Nizamuddin is a shorter journey. But check the schedule as it runs only two days a week. Any number of tourist vehicles (share tempos even) will take you from Jhansi to Orchha in about an hour and let you off amidst some imposing architecture. Jhansi to Khajuraho is about 175 kms/5hrs by road (buses are plentiful but best to book in advance). Khajuraho to Panna National Park—45 kms/1 ½ hrs by road. Travel Time: You will need a wider berth with regard to travel time—coming here on a tight schedule can be tricky. It is better if you can be flexible with your itinerary. Note: Expenditure on food and stay in this part of the world should not seriously dent your wallet so don’t sweat in this regard. Ram Raja temple Orchha
named him ‘Bundela’ (meaning: the one who offered his blood). Within the fort are many independent structures that were constructed at various times by different rulers that occupied the fort. The Raj Mandir and the Jahangir Mahal are the best preserved among some more ruinous ones for Orchha was abandoned as the capital for Tehri (now Tikamgarh), 40km to the
south, in 1783. Orchha was at its most magnificent during the tenure of Bir Singh Deo who ruled here from 16051627 as an ally to the Mughal Emperor Jahangir for whom the Jahangir Mahal was built. Spend some time by the Betwa River, which flows alongside the fort complex and provides for a grand riverside view of the palace’s fluted domes across from the spires of the Ram Raja temple that opposes it. Many other temple structures skirt the river leading upstream to a set of almost identical ‘chhatris’ (cenotaphs) that flank the riverbank. A family of pilgrims who had come to bathe while I was soaking in the view were an easy target for a troupe of monkeys that quickly rifled through their belongings and took off with whatever caught their fancy. Yes, you are best advised to keep your belongings with you at all times. Orchha survives today more as a temple town living off the trickle of tourists that make it here and the batches of pilgrims who visit often enough. Interestingly though, some of the more enterprising locals have spruced up their homes (some have painted theirs in very bright colours even) and opened them up to tourists at no great cost. Simple, clean, mud plastered homes with a little central courtyard (bathrooms are usually separate), they offer low-roofed rooms with a bed and home cooked meals. It is all very unpretentious and homely— evidence of a new kind of tourist, who is keen to experience more than just the sights; the freshly cooked dal-rotisabzi does nicely for food. In fact, homestays of this nature are mushrooming all across the coutry and are a great way to get a feel of the local way of life. On the other hand, a wing of the Jahangir Palace houses a now very spiffy MPTDC hotel called the Sheesh Mahal with all the grandness of a palace locale and a view to match. For those with a shorter itinerary or itchy feet, I recommend making the short trip back to Jhansi before nightfall in time to hit the road en route to Khajuraho, which was my next stop. It is overnight by road and might just be a little bumpy, so you’ve done well if you’ve decided
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