TAKE OFF was my comfort food staring at me in the face. In the event you get bored of all the noodle-soups, check out this MalaysianIndian restaurant on the riverside! We then spent the rest of the night wandering along the river banks, dodging the tuktuks (rickshaws), drooling over the seafood and gatecrashing a wedding reception. Undeniably the best way to start your morning is to indulge in a scrumptious breakfast at the Scandinavian Bakery. This airy little place on Phangkam Road is a short walk from Vientiane’s tourist suburb. The combination of the outdoor patio and a two-storied indoor eating area has a laidback look that will keep you idle for hours. You can pick the bread of your choice to make a sandwich (USD 1.50) or try some of the enticing pastries, cakes and desserts. Make sure
you give yourself plenty of time as once you are lured in by the fabulous aroma of freshly baked loaves, there is no going back. With our bellies full, we walked down Setthariat road to Wat Si Saket a Buddhist monastery. Built in 1818, this particular Wat is rumoured to be the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane. Lao temples boast two distinct styles of architecture, one being the Lao style and the other the Siamese style. Wat Si Saket is built in the Siamese style with an adjoining spacious terrace and an ornate five-layered roof. When the armies of Siam ransacked Vientiane in the 19th century, this Wat was spared due to its style. The biggest attraction is that it features a cloister wall with more than 2000 ceramic and silver Buddha images. Check out the intricate paintings that adorn the walls of the main
shrine! Our delightful morning ended with a not-so-delightful encounter with a few flirtatious monks. Momentarily confused if all my knowledge about saffron-clothed men was accurate, I quizzed one of them about his behaviour. He simply asked me to come back that evening to ‘hang out’! More bizarre encounters followed as we hailed a tuk-tuk for the 25 kilometres to Xieng Khuan, popularly known as Buddha Park. Meaning ‘spirit city’ this sculpture park is located southeast from Vientiane. It contains over 200 statues from Buddhist and Hindu tradition and numerous weirdly designed sculptures. An enormous 40m long reclining Buddha is the most prominent attraction. Towards one side of the park stands a sculpture that resembles a giant pumpkin that is divided into three levels
from the French. At the top of the road that runs right past the Patuxai is Lao’s national symbol, That Luang. Unfortunately, this prominent site was closed when we visited, but nevertheless, we were dazzled by the stupa’s tapering golden spires. A fantastic way to relax after stomping all over Vientiane’s streets is to pop into one of several massage houses. We chose an off-beat location at the forested temple of Wat Sok Pa Luang. The herbal saunas and the massage tables are housed in a large tree-house styled quarters and offer an ethereal experience. You can go back into the sauna as many times as you wish for a mere 10,000 kip. While you wait for the relaxing massage (priced at 30,000 kip/hour) you can help yourself to copious amounts of herbal tea or enjoy a bowl of freshly cut fruits. I found the
masseurs very friendly and competent, but beware that this particular style of massage is more invasive than others.
Getting There: Direct flights connect Kolkata to Vientiane. Air Asia connects Vientiane to major hubs such as KL and Singapore. Overland routes connect from Thailand and Vietnam. Must Do: Pose with the reclining Buddha. Enjoy a Beer Lao at sunset. Best Time to Travel: Cooler months of November to April. Must Haves: A colourful Lao PDR Visa.
representing hell, earth and heaven. Hike to the top for a suitable vantage point to view the entire park! A little drink kiosk keeps you hydrated while you wander around. In the centre of Vientiane stands the Patuxai, a monument shaped like a gateway and dedicated to those who fought for the struggle for independence
The best companion you can have while watching the sunset is Lao’s national beverage, Beer Lao. Hailed as Asia’s best local beer, the brand’s logo adorns everything from street signs to t-shirts, and is known to convert even beer haters. Have a taste while winding down from a day of sightseeing! My last night in this peaceful city, I indulged in some lip smacking rice-based goodness, while I sampled some of Vientiane’s fine cuisine. After an exhausting-but-fulfilling day, I had been won over by the simple charms of this evolving backwater. Au Revoir Vientiane! —Sowmiya Ashok
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