sustainability | ethical fashion | eco culture
Vol. 2
Cover Photography: Louiza Vick www.louizavick.com Model: Ari Cooper Art Direction: Andrea Krystine Hair/Makeup: Adriana Lopez Dress: Emily Factor - www.emilyfactor.com
XIFER INTERNS: CAMILLA DOIG LORENTZEN JANA ROWLAND EXCLUSIVE FIXTAPE: 88:88
REFIX
EDITOR IN CHIEF/CREATIVE DIRECTOR: ANDREA KRYSTINE ANDREA@REFIXMAG.COM
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: LOUIZA VICK STEPHANIE KAITLYN PHOTOGRAPHY CHAZ CRUZ EMILY SANDIFER PRODUCED BY: ECOLOGIQUE FASHION FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES OR SUBMISSIONS EMAIL: INFO@ECOLOGIQUEFASHION.COM
REFIXMAG.COM TWITTER: @REFIXMAG FACEBOOK: /REFIXMAG
03
06 Editor’s Letter 08 FIXTAPE .01 Produced by 88:88
11 Friendlier Fashion Sustainable Feature
14 How EasyFashion Spread Featuring Emily Factor
29 Dressomorphosis Designer Feature
30 Michelle Lowe-Holder Designer Feature
34 Ava Catherside
12
Designer Feature
38 Mr. Wingate Designer Feature
40 Cut by Wesley Designer Feature
42 Rapanui Sustainable Feature
46 As if- Fashion Spread Featuring Hunt & Gather
58 Hi Sonia Interview with Founder of IN-STEAD
32
62 Your Holiday Style Guide by mygreenlipstick.com Produced by Ecologique Fashion. Editor-in-Chief- Andrea Krystine. refixmag.com
38
11.11 - Vol. 2
Contents
60 44
09 refixmag.com
44 05
Editor’s Letter
A NEW HOME
Moving to a new city is difficult… it’s all about change; changing the places you shop, work, or visit on a daily basis. It’s an uncomfortable feeling that forces you to adopt a new perspective, and with minor --ok, some major-- lifestyle adjustments, can eventually result in a more accommodating “home” feeling. Change is essential to growth. Our magazine is a bit like this. It introduces people to new ways of thinking and living- perhaps not new, but old, pre-industrial ways of thinking and living- that bring a better balance to ones life and the lives around them. With the world being in a state of confusion and discord, we’ve got to hit the refresh button and start realizing the potential we hold within us. This issue of REFIX displays the talents of innovators that all share this passion for humanity, self-expression, and the earth. While scheduling photo shoots and putting together this compilation of articles, fashion spreads, and interviews, I became very intrigued with writers from the late 1800’s. To read their commentaries on the world at that time had me feeling a bit of envious of what I could only imagine the organic sights, smells, and tastes had been like in that time. One particular writer stood out to me -Henry David Thoreau. In his book Walden, Thoreau philosophizes on the mere fact that we need nothing but to live simply and in harmony with nature. In fact, this inspiration has manifested itself in some of the pages before you. I sincerely hope that you enjoy this collection of items that had either come to us this season from a friendly e-mail, a chance encounter, or some artistic collaborating. Life is something to appreciate- often we are the only one not allowing ourselves this gift. I invite you to soak it up and enjoy. xxoo Andrea
refixmag.com
07
Introducing the REFIX Fixtape-
A downloadable mix exclusive to each REFIX issue. Fixtape .01 is a fusion of underground masterpieces and nostalgic, refixed tracks of the past.
Exclusive Free Download
r o f X k I c i l F C ur yo
FIXTAPE .01
Produced live by 88:88 1. Shlohmo - “Empty Pools” 2. Alex B - “Getting to Know You” 3. Marcus Intalex - “Regrets” 4. Sneaker Pimps - “6 Underground” 5. The Streets - “Weak Become Heroes” 6. Josh Abrahams - “Halcyon & On & On” 7. Zero 7 - “Destiny (88:88 Refix)” 8. Burial - “Stolen Dog” 9. Zomby - “Alothea” 10. Jacques Greene - “The Look (Koreless Remix)” 11. Sbtrkt - “Hold On” 12. Nocow - “Dispel the Wind” 13. Synkro - “Look at Yourself ” 14. Jamie xx- “Beat For” 15. Dark Sky - “Be Myself ” 16. Submerse - “Hold it Down” 17. Tim Hecker - “Chimeras” 18. Phaeleh - “Afterglow (feat. Soundmouse)”
For more info on 88:88 - www.checkoutthewebsite.com
refixmag.com
09
Photo: Friendly-Fashion event, Lithuania
Making Fashion Friendlier Originated in Lithuania in 2008 by Justus Janauskas and Milda Mitkute, Friendly-Fashion is an online marketplace that provides an alternative to wasteful fashion consumption, by making clothing available for re-use through a network in which reselling, swapping or giving away clothes is possible. With 200 thousand members in Europe alone -- including Lithuania, Germany, UK, Holland, Spain, Turkey, Czech Republic, Belarus, and Norway-- Friendly-Fashion is making its way to the US of A with its launch this year in San Francisco, California.
refixmag.com
11
Opposite page: FriendlyFashion event, Lithuania
Unlike other online clothing sources, this community-based project allows people to meet-up at local hot spots and make transactions on their own spare time eliminating the cost and carbon footprint associated with shipping. Members also have the opportunity to choose from a great variety of clothes, shoes and accessories making eco-friendly and fashionable outfits come together with the convenience of never even stepping foot in a store. Over 1 million items are already available to the European market alone. In addition, using Friendly-Fashion gives the members the security of knowing where their items are coming from as well as are given feedback based on their experience with each transaction. Through engaging the community to “swap� or buy second-hand, Friendly-Fashion is ultimately helping reduce all of the resources involved in the production of new clothing by decreasing the demand for new clothing. www.friendly-fashion.com
refixmag.com
13
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOUIZA VICK
Words by Thos. S. Allen
Hair // Makeup: Adriana Lopez Art Direction: Andrea Krystine Model: Ari Cooper Wardrobe: Emily Factor // www.emilyfactor.com Shoes: Green Bees // www.shopgreenbees.com
Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com & Shoes, Green Bees; www.shopgreenbees.com
My story is old, but it’s often told
Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com
For it happens everyday-
Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com
As long as men and women love
refixmag.com
21
Some heart will have to pay.
Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com
Bodysuit & Velvet Blazer, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com
He thought in time he could forget the girl he’d left behind
Bodysuit & Velvet Blazer, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com & Shoes, Green Bees; www.shopgreenbees.com
But still the memory of
her face is always on his mind. refixmag.com
27
Dresso morphisis San Diego fashion designer, Rana Ghezelayagh, sees fashion as body language- a tool of communication and expression. Along with this expression comes consideration for your body and the earth. After showing at both Seattle and portland Fashion weeks with the success of her Anar Couture “Chic with Silk” accessories collection, Rana thought up a project protect that would enable consuma-holic fashionistas everywhere to take another glance at what’s already in their closet-- Dressomorphosis™. The concept of Dressomorphosis™ is derived from ‘metamorphosis’, which means a profound change in form from one stage to another. Dressomorphosis™ is literally the metemorphisis of your old unwanted clothes into “new attire that’s more trendy and fashionable”. Rana’s project contributes to eco-fashion in that it includes the production of new styles that are sustainable by reprocessing existing materials thus reconstituting ones wardrobe. In addition, a portion of the proceeds from this eco-fashion project will be contributed to multiple sclerosis research through a donation to the National Multiple Sclerosis Society (NMSS).
Dressomorphosis™ re-creation is available at www.AnarCoutureFashion.etsy.com
refixmag.com
29
MICHELLE LOWE-HOLDER article: Camilla D Lorentzen
© MLH AW11
Michelle Lowe-Holder started her career in fashion design some 10 years ago. She began her studies at Pratt Institute and completed her MA at Central St. Martins where, upon graduating, she started her own label. “It was not hard to break into fashion as I have never worked in any other field - but yes it takes time, luck, and tenacity to be in fashion - a good measure of humour and seriously thick skin also helps!� Struggling to find her spot in the world of ready-to-wear, a couple of seasons ago, she decided to rethink her collection. She started looking into details, hand crafting and pleating while only integrating end-of-line materials as well as cut off materials from her previous collections. Her AW11 'Flock & Fold' is a pure accessories range ethically produced and sampled in the UK. The bases are hand cut and then crocheted or interlaced with the off-cuts.
refixmag.com
31
The AW11 ‘Flock and Fold’ collection consists of “flocking engulfing and colouring geometric shapes and hand-crafted folding”. Flocking is the process of depositing many small fibre particles onto a surface. This is usually done by the application of a high-voltage electric field. The majority of flocking done worldwide uses finely cut natural or synthetic fibres. A flocked finish imparts a decorative characteristic to the surface, and has a soft velvety feel. To represent her collection, Michelle Lowe-Holder explored alternative beauty: “My photographer Polly Penrose and I looked at beauty taboos - age / youth and size. For SS11 we looked at body shape tension and distortion and the question of beautiful or ugly. For the AW11 photo-shoot, beauty perception is once more questioned with Theresa (the model) herself - her rawness with no hair and no makeup is very anti fashion and slightly uncomfortable - she is almost too naked. The other idea of her being covered with colour, as one would normally do on the face, plus the accessories looking slightly robotic and distorted, is also on the edge of beauty versus ‘off ’ and that aesthetic line is quite interesting.” www.lowe-holder.com
Š MLH AW11
refixmag.com
33
Š Photo AVA Catherside SS12
article: Camilla D Lorentzen Š Photo AVA Catherside SS12
AVA Catherside is a new London based label by Veronica Todisco and Anna Gloria Flores. Todisco who studied Modern Literature in Milan, and Flores who studied at the IED in Milan met in London and started the label in January 2011. All the materials the girls work with are certified to be 100% carbon neutral and environmentally friendly. The garments show off minimalism to its purest form; stripped of details and finishings, and the aesthetic is sharp and geometrical with a monochrome palette.
For their capsule collection called 'A3', they purely used a material called Alcantara. Alcantara is the tradename given to a composite material used to cover surfaces, and was developed in the early 1970s by Miyoshi Okamoto. It is composed of about 68% polyester and 32% polyurethane giving increased durability. It feels very similar to suede, and is virtually identical on both sides, making it a reversible fabric.
Š Photo AVA Catherside SS12
Š Photos AVA Catherside SS12
"Our garments come to life like geometric works on bare skin. We let the materials inspire us, and the way the materials interact with the body shape. It all comes from there: the choice of the fabrics is a fundamental part of our research.� AVA Catherside can be bought online at www.farfetch.com and from various shops across Europe including Wok in Milan and Hunting and Gathering in Brussels. refixmag.com
37
MR wingate Mr Wingate is a print designer based in East-London. After graduating with a BA in Textiles from Norwich School of Art in 2005, he moved to London where he started off by selling his printed t-shirts and bags in Brick Lane. His signature print is based on architecture and pubs. His 'East End Pub Crawl' is a series of four cushions, each with a different motif of a pub. Wingate has also put his name to aprons, gift tags, napkins and wallpaper. All with his signature nouveau retro architectural images.
Mr Wingate's designs can be found for sale in Selfridges and online at www.mrwingate.bigcartel.com
"I am using a print process to incorporate a greater sense of water consumption, as well as I am designing prints that use fewer colours and that share elements of other prints, reducing the use of water in the process. I am also concentrating more on producing products that have a longer lifespan with the consumer, products that someone will cherish for years rather than throw away after a few months". article: Camilla D Lorentzen
Cut By Wesley Los Angeles designer Wesley Stiller cuts ties. This instinctual technique began with a hand-me-down tie from his grandfather. To the horror of tailors everywhere, Wesley converted his grandfather’s tie into a skinny tie by snipping it down to size with scissors. With the realization that this just might have been the incorrect way to alter a tie, he was not dissuaded by the pride and joy he had just shredded up- he began to stitch. He chose bright, opposing colors in bold stitches to create a strong contrast that not only fixed the tie, it made it look …awesome! What seemed to be a mistake at the time was instead the beginning of Wesley’s fresh cut, eco-friendly neckwear.
All Cut by Wesley ties are hand sewn and one-of-a-kind originals so you know it’s good. The ties are all vintagesome dating back to the 1930’s. They also come in quirky names like “it svelte good“ and “the boo ya ka sha...ka sha”. www.cutbywesley.com refixmag.com
41
photo: Rapanui Tri Blend Cardigan
Rapanui:
revolutionizing the industry Rob and Martin Drake-Knight design casual wear from sustainable materials. What’s more is that they use ethically accredited factories powered by wind and solar energy for the production of their fashionable clothing. While Rapanui’s supply chain -as well as their textiles- are ethical, what really makes them stand out from other organic designers is the traceability of their products. “Using our trace mapping tool… you can find out exactly where our products come from, how and where they are made: From the seed being sown, picked, spun, sewn and transported.” In addition to these contributions to eco fashion, Rapanui has also recently developed an industrychanging ecolabelling system. This system summarizes detailed and often confusing information on clothes packaging and “makes it easy for consumers to shop quickly with a conscience”.
refixmag.com
43
“Some clothes might have an organic, or eco friendly logo on them, but it’s hard to tell, when you look at all the different labels (and the fine print) what’s really going on. So at Rapanui, we’ve come up with a solution. -Martin Drake-Knight, Co-founder In order to help consumers make more ethical shopping decisions, Rapanui’s solution is an A-G rating system that informs the consumer about the ethical background of each product. Products can range from being A (organic, ethical, and sustainable), to D (not bad, not good either), to G (not ethical, organic, or sustainable). Rob and Martin fully developed the EcoLabelling system and petitioned to enforce it in 2008. Since then, they have gained recognition through press and ceremonies. Variations of their ecolabelling system have also been adopted by major brands in the UK.
For more information on Rapanui or to help them with their ecolabelling petition, visit www.rapanuiclothing.com
photo: Rapanui Infinity Bird Top
refixmag.com
45
As if you could kill time without injuring eternity. Stephanie Kaitlyn Photography With the words of Henry David Thoreau
Hair // Makeup: Charlyn Sanchez Art Direction: Andrea Krystine Model: Greta Ago Wardrobe: Hunt & Gather // www.huntandgathershop.com
Vintage blouse, bell-bottom jeans, and multi-colored crochet belt, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Pearl Earrings , Noelia Parish
As you simplify your life, the laws of the universe will be simpler; solitude will not be solitude, poverty will not be poverty, nor weakness weakness.
Vintage tank, belt, and pants, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Black leather with rattlesnake vertibrea, Found Pieces
Great men, their gen have their fame who have pr and all tru fame subs their high beyo th sta
unknown to neration, among the great receded them, ue worldly sides from h estimate ond he ars.
Vintage belt, re-worked tank and shorts, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Necklace, Doan
Vintage tank, belt, and pants, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Black leather with rattlesnake vertibrea, Found Pieces
Most of the luxuries and many of the so-called comforts of life are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind.
refixmag.com
53
ts out The light which pu s. Only u to s s e n k r a d is our eyes are e w h ic h w to s n w that day da to dawn. y a d e r o m is e r e awake. Th g star. in n r o m a t u b is The sun
Vintage dress and boots, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Ear Lace, Sirena St. James
Vintage dress, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Red feather earrings, Gilded Lily
As a single footstep will not make a path on the earth, so a single thought will not make a pathway in the mind. To make a deep physcal path, we walk again and again. To make a deep mental path, we must think over and over the kind of thoughts we wish to dominate our lives. refixmag.com
57
“Although it is difficult to wrap our minds around fixing all of the problems in the world, if everyone does the best we can with regard to the little decisions we make about what we buy and how we live our lives on an everyday basis we can change for the better.� Photo by Lauren Emily Wydra
-Sonia Weksler
Hi Sonia.
An interview with IN-STEAD founder, Sonia Weksler
Sonia Weksler is a woman determined to make a viable change; a woman with hope in humanity who has made it her duty to research and share eco-friendly alternatives that can be used INSTEAD of the default options mainstream culture offers. Her medium- documentary films that feature creative, contributing citizens behind sustainable endeavors. Hi Sonia! Tell us about your project In-Stead In-Stead is a resource that reveals the best our culture has to offer in the form of sustainable indie fashion, farm-to-table and organic food, and local artisans and businesses that engage in eco-conscious and ethical practices. We believe that a healthy lifestyle should be more easily attainable and prevalent in our culture and that if we spread the word about better choices available we can stimulate a larger demand and shift the trend. All of the contributors to In-Stead have donated their time to this project because taking care of the Earth and making sure it can sustain future generations has become a necessity. The members of the community are the producers, distributors, exhibitors, and consumers of the In-Stead ideals; the movement’s growth is reliant on the community’s growth and vis versa. What inspired you to start In-Stead and how did it originate? In-Stead exists because my friends and I were having such a great conversation about proper food to eat and things to do (instead of what the corporate, commercialized world offers) and decided to extend the dialogue. I was inspired to start In-Stead because I wanted to share information that would enable people to make healthier decisions for themselves and our world, and to help foster an understanding that the more minor changes are made by individuals the more collectively impactful it is. I was also inspired by creative people around me who are supporting themselves doing what they love in a way that is in harmony with the well being of the planet and their local community. Since most of the media that is reaching people is intended to drive consumerism with no regard for how it may negatively impact everything, I thought that creating some positive messages to counter those tendencies would benefit everyone. refixmag.com
59
How has this project affected your lifestyle? Working on In-Stead has caused me to take a closer look at my everyday choices to make sure I am being the change I’d like to see in the world. Whether I’m composting food waste or making sure my family’s retail store has eco-friendly hand soap and recycled paper towels (not to mention products that are sustainable and sourced locally when possible), this project has impressed upon me the importance of leading by example. Also, interviewing subjects for In-Stead’s piece on sustainable indie fashion has influenced me to shed certain bad habits and replace them with better ones. For example, rather than going shopping for a new outfit when I have somewhere to go, I often turn to my own closet to combine different pieces I already own. It is so much fun, I have stepped up my style, and the process stimulates creativity in a part of my brain that was previously dormant. If I do buy clothing or accessories it is from local vendors, thrift stores, and artists who create and sell eco-savvy, upcycled fashion instead of shopping malls that are loaded with mass-produced garments made without environmental or social consideration. What are some of the things that assist you in maintaining this lifestyle? I really believe in choosing organic renditions of any products I buy to avoid pesticides, fertilizers, and chemicals that are harmful to me and the ecosystem. The farmer’s market is where I shop for meat, poultry, and produce because it is fresher, in season, and supports my local economy and ecology. If I am in a situation where I don’t have access to organic meat and dairy I choose vegan selections, which rarely happens because of all of the delicious farm-to-table fare available in San Diego. I also use really clean products on my body because the skin is our largest organ and absorbs toxins so easily. Leveraging the magic of nature through home-made blends and essential oils has lots of great health benefits and since I started using them I am no longer able to tolerate commercial versions with funny chemicals and artificial fragrances. Needless to say, natural laundry detergents and household products are a must. Since physical activity is essential to a balanced life, I take advantage of every opportunity to be active. For me, yoga is the perfect way to nourish my body, mind, and spirit. I also take every opportunity to sit still while breathing because I’ve found that quieting the mind is a useful exercise. Since I stay in tune with good food and a heathy lifestyle, I don’t get sick often, but when I do need medical attention I go to a Chinese herbalist and acupuncturist and stay away from antibiotics that destroy good bacteria in the body and medicines that mask symptoms and cause terrible side effects. Tell us about your documentaries and the direction you are looking to take In-Stead In-Stead will bring the community together at events and online to premier documentary film vignettes and support the featured artists/businesses/causes. Our website will include a video blog, Twitter and Facebook feeds, and an index for businesses and organizations that are in accordance with In-Stead’s values. I would love to see this model for highlighting environmentally
Photo by Lauren Emily Wydra
and socially conscious endeavors in the community through video and social media eventually expand to other cities. For our documentary film on sustainable indie fashion, we have spotlighted designers who create and produce their clothing locally and from wasted or eco-conscious materials. We are also featuring consumers and businesses who support this movement so that our audience can see examples of what it looks like and how to identify it in the world. The vignette that follows fashion will be on organic, farm-to-table food and we will continue to rotate to different manifestations of socially and environmentally conscious culture in our community. How can others get involved? People can get involved by starting to think about the ingredients and the source of what they consume, and having good conversations on the topic. People can also get involved by contributing to the conversation in our online forum or submitting suggestions for people and/or companies to feature in our film work, and can connect with us on facebook at www.facebook.com/IN.STEAD.org. Anyone who wants to be a part of the In-Stead team is welcome to volunteer and participate, and should get in touch with me directly at sonia@in-stead.org. refixmag.com
61
Your Holiday Style Guide by
The cold weather is on its
way and with it the promise of a fun and festive Holiday Season. I love the Holiday
season - it brightens up the long winter months and it’s a great excuse to glam up in a dramatic frock and
glamorous edgy casuals in gorgeous fabrics.
Regal jewel tones of am-
ethyst, emerald and moody
blues are hot for winter their deep gem shades are exotic, mesmerising and so impactful.
Ruby red dresses are a holiday fashion
favourite because red looks great on almost
everyone. Words of caution though, don’t be tempted to go
head-to-toe red. Metallic or black shoes and accessories work
well with a red dress and glitter heels are everywhere right now so have your own Cinderella moment!
refixmag.com
63
Black chiffon and lace work perfectly for the holiday
season because it’s chic and
sexy at the same time, and
this season there is a certain
dark mischief in the air with
the hot fetish trend that set the catwalks alight! Use it to your advantage to show
off peek-a-boo areas (a bit of cleavage, the arm) without
going too bare. There’s no need to bare all, nude camisoles
and slips all keep you covered while the chiffon itself stays
really suggestive - a game of now-you-see-it, now-you-don’t peek-a-boo.
fear But ack l B not s in y a w is al ! style
The little black dress really will take you to any event. Look for
winter fabrics like velvet or wool; seasonless picks in crepe or jersey
are a smart buy if you want to get more use out of it or tantalise in black lace, keyhole necklines and sheer inserts! Add a slightly
casual touch by throwing a sexy blazer or fab biker jacket over a party frock, very this season! refixmag.com
65
Remember sexy is all about surprises, so a deceptively simple piece from the front can be a showstopper from the back. Open backs,
lace-up backs, great detail all make for dramatic effects and a great pair of heels make any outfit really special.
For a night on the town:
A strict, structured look with heels is always
hard to carry off if you want to let your hair
down so go for a statement dress that is loosely fitted and allows for a bit of movement - if
you’re anything like me, you will have had two helpings of Christmas pudding and eaten all
the chocolates from the tree, so an easy-to-wear tunic dress will camouflage a tummy. Wear with opaque black tights and killer heels.
67
Cashmere is the real scene-stealer. Touchable fabrics
not only invite another’s touch, they have the added bonus of feeling great against your skin so you feel
pampered and sexy but comfortable at the same time a real blessing for that ‘I just threw it on’ style!
Colour wise the darker autumn palette is brightened up with
splashes of raspberry and other berry shades as well as pinks,
purples and blues and cashmere works so well with your basics and more classic trousers.
Oh and don’t forget! Accessories such as jewellery, scarves and bags are a great way to update your wardrobes without breaking the bank.
And that’s Christmas sorted.! mygreenlipstick.com
refixmag.com
69