Ampersand Magazine: The Fashion Issue

Page 1

1 a production of The Red & Black

[ ampersand ]

THE

FASHION ISSUE

CASUAL FORMAL TO

& FALL IN BETWEEN

Chefs with taste share their style secrets

The musical life of Sanni Baumg채rtner


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24-28

Ampersand Magazine volume 4 // issue 4 7 Make Your Own Athenian 8-9 Love Letters

34-38

40-42

11-12 Did You Know? Jackets & Scarves 13-16 Guest: Bread and Thread Blog 18-20 Back to Basics

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22-23 Sanni Bamgärtner’s Musical Past 24-28 A Chill in the Air 31-32 Stylish Glasses 34-38 A Formal Affair 40-42 Aprons Off

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31-32

44-46 Scarves that Buy an Education

18-20

Love Letters

Fashion

Art+Leisure

Food

Music

Features

C O V E R P H O T O BY E M I LY D A R D A M A N

NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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Ampersand Magazine EXECUTIVE EDITOR Stephen Mays

EDITORIAL

STAFF

ADVERTISING

PRODUCTION

BUSINESS General Manager

Managing Editor

Contributing Writers

Advertising Director

Creative Director

Grace Donnelly

Rachel Eubanks

Will White

Dan Roth

Natalie McClure

Senior Editor

Greyson Ike

Account Executives

Student Production

Executive Assistant

Lauren Loudermilk

Laura James

Jill Armitage

Manager

Laurel Holland

Section Editors

Jianna Justice

Graham Currie

Victoria Nikolich

Office Manager

Chandler Johnston

Jackson Moore-Ragusin

Danny Jacob

Creative Assistants

Ashley Oldham

Diondra Powers

Ally Smith

Jessie Bonham

Business Assistant/

Design Editor

Kelly McLendon

Madison Trapkin Photographers

Judson Parsons

Marcella Caraballo

Jake Green

Inside Sales Chandler McGee

Dennis Scullin

Assistant Design Editor

Charlotte Bleau

Julie Rodriguez

Emily Dardaman

Photo Editor

Tatim Kilosky

Stephanie Lennox

Emily Schoone

Assistant Photo Editor

Carson Travers

Ian Carrol

Christina Cannon

Sidney Wilder

Online Editor

Sarah Hodges

Design Team

Daniel Funke

Abi Lambert

Recruitment Editor

Killian Wyatt

Kate Devlin

Illustrators

Senior Food Writer

Mandy Le

Amanda Johnson

Stacey Suss

Kelly Taylor Josh Young

Classified & Promotions Manager Hayley DeBell Distribution Assistants

Emily Laramy Cory Schenck Promotion Team Russell Abad Daniel Clifford Dylan Floyd

Senior Fashion Writer

Brian Galgon

Kailey Profeta

Alicia Gant

Senior Music Writer Jonny Williams Senior Art & Leisure Writer

Megan McNerney Circulation Assistant John Berrigan

Kaitlin Kent Copy Editor Shannon Adams Editorial Adviser Erin France Sports Editorial Adviser Cy Brown

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Our first fashion issue. Wow. The gravity of that didn’t sink in until I started writing this. I’m not sure why we’ve never dedicated a full issue to fashion, but it may have something to do with the semi-organized chaos that comes with trying to shoot more than one fashion spread. It may have been more appropriate to have named this the Ambition Issue, but I digress. Athens radiates with fashion, and if you can’t see that, then you need to spend more time in public. So many styles complement, contrast and play off of one another in the Classic City. For one, chefs don some pretty mean threads when they’re not in the kitchen (pg.40). Athens lends itself as host and inspiration for any snazzy undertaking , like the up-and-coming Bread and Thread blog that collaborated with us (pg. 13). And for those just entering the fashion world, we have a few tidbits to help get you started with knowing your basics (pg. 11). Have you noticed how glasses have become more fashionably functional than ever before (pg. 31)? Or did you know the Sanni Baumgärtner, well-known Athenian fashion designer, has a history in music (pg. 22)? But if it feels like there might be a just a bit missing from this issue, don’t you worry your pretty little head. We have a special surprise coming mid-November. Keep your eyes open and stay hungry for what’s to come.

ia

NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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Meanwhile in AmperLand, we: Window shopped across Athens. Explained who Ed Sheeran is. Found the perfect pumpkin. Got overly ambitious about pumpkin carving. Learned “Don’t” is about Ellie Goulding. Spent too much time on Pinterest looking for “inspiration”. + Found the five Athens must-haves for fall. + Devoured pumpkin apple muffins. + Started hating all our clothes. + Tucked away the summer shorts. + Dusted off our jeans. + Broke out the flannel. + Became even more caffeine dependent. + Went to Oktoberfest. + Learned the differences between Oxfords and loafers. + Invented an Ampersand hand sign. + Danced the Wild Rumpus in full costume. + Spent 16 hours documenting the The Georgia National Fair in Middle Georgia. + Labored through midterms. + Did lots of basic white girl things a la pumpkin. + Semi-survived midterms. + Spotted Alton Brown in town. + Attended the world’s largest outdoor cocktail party. + Attempted to define the word “basic”. + Watched too many Halloween movies. + Bought and ate more candy corn than humanly safe. + Visited Atlanta’s High Museum of Art. + Were consistently confused by Georgia weather. + + + + + +

Look for us online ampersand.uga @ampersand_uga

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BY JAKE GREEN & JULIE RODRIGUEZ ILLUSTRATIONS BY MANDY LE

We took a look at the people of Athens and noticed a fun variety of styles and trends manifesting themselves in different ways. While it’s hard to escape labeling people, we can find that there is something to be said about the clothes a bunch of people choose to put on. We mixed and matched some familiar types we walk by everyday downtown and on campus. You may see your favorite items or roll your eyes at another.

The fashion choices you see as swagalicious may look pretty funny to someone else. That feeling you get in your oversized t shirt is the same that someone else gets in their socks and sandals. Take this opportunity to make a paper doll that appreciates all senses of fashion, because honestly, we’re all just people getting up in the morning hoping we look fly as hell. NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY M A N DY L E

It took some time weighing each and every faux pas that sets me in a rage. Chacos? Uggs? Sperries? COWBOY BOOTS? I knew footwear would play an important role in my criticism, though of the style or precision I wasn’t too sure. Something was still missing; until, while walking home along a manicured and rather chic avenue in Montpellier, France, I spotted him: Bro McFratstar was wearing a Comfort Colors T-shirt, generic, Ralph Lauren khaki shorts, a backwards baseball cap, and some mesh Nike tennis shoes. As if the ensemble weren’t enough, a pair of the whitest tube socks on earth shot upward to the knees, leaving the amount of exposed skin between shorts’ hem and sock almost negligible. Not to be construed as an attack on Athens’ organized Hellenism, I must say — I don’t understand the chosen medium of their conventionalized trends. The prescribed fraternity uniform embraces what ought to be an agreeable and, dare I say it, sophisticated presentation. Though, like @tudgirlypls, something is lost in translation. Your (probably Ralph Lauren) button down shirt needs to fit. Your (probably khaki) pants need not resemble Elizabethan bloomers (read: again, they need to fit). And unless you’re planning on yachting to Watkinsville after class, Sperries can be substituted with any other loafer. And please, for the love of God, realize that TUBE SOCKS give the impression that each of your legs shares the same diameter as the Baobabs of mainland Africa. What moved me the most about this young American was his confidence. Usually, one might applaud such assurance, such selfpossession. Though, par contre, one must remember the conventions that contributed to and encouraged such a train wreck in cotton, especially when such blatant disregard is exhibited toward the customs of another country. I understand comfort and ease in dressing — it rules my choices. I often adopt the tropes of the sorority uniform for class time, minus a few x’s on my tee size. But when I dress for “real life,” shall we say, I choose from a variety of dry-land footwear (that, may I add, doesn’t reek), as well as from a cadre of clothing that, astonishingly, fits. Using comfort, or ignorance, as an excuse is ineffective. You simply look like an idiot dressed in Ina Garten’s shent (not quite a shirt, not quite a tent). Maybe the cigarette silhouette that the French so often favor has polluted my vision, but then again, I doubt it. Just because you can tie a bowtie doesn’t mean you can leave the house without looking in a mirror.

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I am always writing about the things I love most about fashion and what I find fashionable. But today, I want to talk to you about one thing in particular that I feel should have never been introduced to the fashion industry – ever. Let’s talk about crocs. In the year 2002, 3 men created a foam clog originally as a shoe to wear while you enjoy your time at the spa. Such a great, innovative idea, right? The issue arose when people thought it’d be a great idea to wear them outside of a spa salon, hospital, cafeteria or any kind of water sporting activity. The issue arose when people decided to wear them in the public for all to see, as if it were some kind of casual shoe.

You see, when one person decides to wear these things with jeans, sweat pants, or god forbid a dress, another person is going to think it is okay. Then another, and another, until it becomes a chain reaction, and before you know it, the masses decide to hurl themselves into a fashion suicide. And y’all have to understand – I am probably one of the most open-minded people when it comes to fashion. But I’m sorry: crocs are offensive and an embarrassment to everything us in fashion live for. And as if their senior citizen nature weren’t enough, someone thought it’d be funny to create charms you can stick in the holes on the front of the shoe. Do you see me laughing? If I have to look down and see the whole cast of Spongebob on your feet, know that I am judging you. People, where do we draw the line?! Where is your dignity? Where is your PRIDE? And for those of you who could care less about fashion and dress more for comfort, hey, that is completely fine. People also wear snuggies, bunny slippers, and sleep in the nude for comfort...and they seem to know what shouldn’t leave the comfort of their own homes. I’d actually prefer to see walking down the sidewalk in bunny slippers – that’s how deep my disdain for this shoe runs. I am an all-around advocate for the phrase “You shouldn’t care what people think of you. Live for yourself.” That’s fair. But I think the overall message here is how you dress is an embodiment of how you think of yourself. And if you think of yourself as Crocs...

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I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY S TA C E Y S U S S

BY JACKSON MOORE-RAGUSIN

When it comes to men’s jackets, there seems to be a lot of uncertainty about the distinction between suit jackets, blazers and sport coats. Hopefully, this quick rundown of the different types of men’s jackets will dispel some of the confusion surrounding them.

1. Suit Jacket

According to Kevin Bell, employee at George Dean’s men’s store in downtown Athens, “The suit jacket and the pants are all together. It’s a whole ensemble. You’ve got the coat and the pant to go with them.” So, the defining characteristic of a suit jacket is that it’s a single piece of a larger single suit ensemble, and, at the very least, is coupled with a specific pair of trousers. It’s important to note that mixing and matching suit jackets with different suit pants is positively verboten. Furthermore, Suit jackets can be either solid-colored or patterned and are generally considered to be the most formal type of men’s jacket.

2. Blazers

At first glance, blazers actually bear a striking resemblance to suit jackets. Ultimately, however, this type of men’s jacket is entirely distinct from its slightly more formal counterpart. A blazer is made from coarser materials than a suit jacket, is solidcolored, and has no matching pair of trousers. Often, blazers will also be styled with decorative – usually metal and naval themed – buttons.

3. Sport Coats

Lastly, there is the very casual sport coat. Like blazers, sport coats are not made with a matching pair of trousers. But this men’s jacket is patterned, rather than solid-colored, and lacks the metal buttons which distinguish a blazer as such. NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY S TA C E Y S U S S

BY JIANNA JUSTICE

In honor of recent drops in temperature, we’ve compiled our own personal ode to fall’s favorite accessory — the scarf. Whether worn in cableknit wool or cozy cotton, scarves are a one stop shop to add that perfect touch of casual chicness to any cold weather ensemble. We’re amping up the volume, and transforming this practical piece into a full-on fashion statement with our five favorites ways to tie a scarf.

1. The DIY Infinity Scarf

Make your favorite long hanging scarf infinitely cooler by tying the two ends together to form a circle, then double wrapping it around your neck with the tie in the back. Why pay for American Apparel’s $30 version, when you can DIY?

2. The Pretzel

Fold your scarf in half length wise and hang it around your neck. You should end up with one looped end and two loose ends. Stick one of your loose ends through the loop, then twist the remaining part of the looped end and stick the other loose end through. Voila! Twisted and trendy.

3. The Bandanna

Wild West meets Classic City with this fresh take on tying. Fold your scarf, corner to corner, on a diagonal so that you end up with a large triangle. Then, take the top two ends and tie them together behind your neck, letting the front, triangular half hang loose.

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4. The Tie the Knot

Step up your everyday scarf game by first hanging a longer, drop-down scarf around your neck and letting both ends hang loose. Then take hold of the middle section of both ends and form a loop. Stick both ends through the loop and pull them downwards until you’re left with a tight knot. Perfect for your knot so average girl!

5. The Braid

Savvy and simple. Start with the scarf on the back of your neck, then tie a loose loop with the two front ends. Then, cross one end over the other and pull it back up through the central loop of the scarf. Repeat this until you get to the end, then cap it off by tying the two ends together.


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BY ALLY SMITH AND MADISON TRAPKIN PHOTOS BY TATIM KILOSKY

FEATURED RECIPE

Grilled cheese sandwich with blue potatoes from Lazy Willow Farm & wholegrain bread from Luna Baking Co.

HAIR STYLING

Model Citizen Salon

LOCATION

Creature Comforts Brewing Co.

For this issue, Ampersand reached out to the writers of Bread and Thread, a local blog dedicated to the synergy of food and fashion, created by recent University of Georgia graduates Ally Smith and Madison Trapkin.

we near the end of our college careers, we reflect on the many facets of our lives thus far. In retrospect, it seems that things have come full circle — the denim days of ’90s past have resurfaced, and once again we find ourselves clad in those faithful blues. We’ve sampled everything from kale to quinoa, but nothing fills our bellies quite like the melty, cheesy love of a grilled cheese. In our travels, we’ve both discovered that it’s important to have portable anchors. Ally nestles in the warmth of fur while Madison feeds on the crust of freshly baked bread.

Our passions keep us grounded in the present, no matter where we go, so that we can move forward to the future. We revel in nostalgia to create a sense of comfort; our grilled cheese memories warm us inside while our cozy knits take care of the outside. Our moms always told us, “See the world and come home for love.” The beautiful thing about growing up and developing a passion is that wherever we are, we can take our homes with us. Bread and Thread is a collaborative blog project by Ally Smith and Madison Trapkin, which stemmed from their personal blogs, individual passions and the overlaps that may ensue — fashion & food. NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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Left: Laurel Hill porcupine quill earring, Community. Lillie Rubin beaded sweater, Dynamite.

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Left: Fur coat and snakeskin clutch, Dynamite. Jeans, Pitaya.

Left: Rhys May rings, Community. Right: Sunglasses and kimono, Dynamite.

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INGREDIENTS 2 potatoes, washed and sliced

as thin as you can get them

3 tbsp olive oil Salt to taste

17 oz. container plain Greek yogurt 2 tbsp chives, finely chopped Salt & pepper to taste 4 slices of bread 1 tbsp butter Fontina cheese

DIRECTIONS For potatoes:

For grilled cheese:

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Using a pair of tongs, arrange potato rounds in a single layer covering the entirety of the pan. Cook on first side for about 2 minutes, then flip using tongs and cook for an additional minute on the second side. Remove potatoes from oil and place them on a paper towel to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt while potatoes are still hot. Repeat until all of your potato rounds are panfried to perfection!

Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Place each piece of bread in the skillet individually and remove quickly in order to butter one side per slice. Using two pieces of bread, add a layer of yogurt-chive spread to the non-buttered side of one piece. Arrange a single layer of potatoes on top of the spread, and finally add a layer of Fontina cheese. Place the second piece of bread un-buttered side down on the other half of your sandwich. Cook for 5 minutes on the first side (or until golden brown), and then carefully flip using a spatula. Cook second side for the same amount of time. Remove from heat, let cool and serve it up however you like — with your favorite soup, alongside your extra yogurtchive spread, or all by itself. Enjoy!

For yogur t-chive spread: Mix all ingredients in a small bowl. Refrigerate until you’re ready to assemble your grilled cheese.

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AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2014


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Sometimes, less is more. The line between feminine and masculine aesthetics is blurred with simple shapes and classic textures. Understated outfits create modern inspiration for any casual outing.

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STYLED BY CHANDLER JOHNSTON & KAILEY PROFETA ON LAURA, LEFT Sweater, $25, Community.

PHOTOS BY EMILY DARDAMAN MODELS CAROLINE CIEZ, CONNOR GRUVER & LAURA PENDLETON

ON CAROLINE, ABOVE Bra top, $8, Pitaya. Jumper, $25, Community. ON CONNOR Jacket, $26, Dynamite.

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ON CONNOR Shirt, $16, Dynamite. ON LAURA Jacket, $88, Leotard, $26, Jeans, $18, Dynamite.

ON LAURA Top, $19, Pitaya. Coach fanny pack, $65, Agora Vintage. ON CAROLINE Sweater, $25, Community. Bottega Veneta backpack, $299, Agora Co-op.

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ON CAROLINE Sweater, $35, Community. ON CONNOR Leather Jacket, $65, Community.


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a musical history lost in the fabric BY JONNY WILLIAMS

I

P H O T O BY E M I LY S C H O O N E

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magining Sanni Baumgärtner, the owner of Athens’ young but notorious boutique, Community, pursuing anything other than fashion is challenging for most. Her store and fashion line, the fittingly titled Community Service, have caught the attention of pretty much any local publication that you could think of, as well as the likes of The New York Times, Southern Living and MTV. Most people know her story too — or so they think. As has been stated in numerous profiles, Baumgärtner first came to the University of Georgia as an exchange student, moved back and forth between her home in Germany and Athens for a number of years before finally settling in the latter, and opened Community in 2010. That’s the timeline that is all too often settled for, but what it fails to mention is where Baumgärtner’s aspirations formerly laid — in music. Considering the variety and esteem of each musical project she led, it’s nothing short of a shame that this part of her life seems almost forgotten. As husband and former bandmate Don Chambers points out, “she seldom mentions her musical past.” Her beginnings in the field reside in Germany when at the late age of 18 she began playing guitar. After developing her musical ear and writing her own songs, Baumgärtner briefly performed with some friends who already had a group before moving to Athens for the first time, bringing her developing passion for music along with her. But what she didn’t anticipate from the relocation was the inspiration to seek it out as a profession. “I think that when I started playing in Germany it was a really fun and exciting thing to do, but I don’t think I ever thought of it as something that I wanted to do as a career,” says Baumgärtner. “It was more of… I don’t want to say a hobby because it was more important than that, but I didn’t consider that I would get so serious about it that I would pursue a life as a musician until I moved to Athens, and I saw other people doing it.” She first made a name for herself in the scene with her premiere Athens group, Frangipane. It had a sound inspired by Eastern European gypsy music, with songs featuring both English and German lyrics, a trend that


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Audition with Max Reinhardt

P H O T O BY S H AW N F O W L E R

would stay with Baumgärtner for the rest of her musical career. It didn’t last long, however. After only half a year of the band’s existence, Baumgärtner briefly returned to Germany to finish school. Upon returning to Athens, she was shocked to find that Frangipane had dissolved in her absence. “I was working on my thesis and I had to go back one more time to Germany for three months to finish my final exams and during that time somehow the band kind of moved on.” says Baumgärtner. “They all had other projects when I came back to town, and I was a little bit heartbroken.” Having to restart, Baumgärtner decided to radically shift direction from gypsy to 20s and 30s German cabaret with her next musical venture, Audition with Max. “It just spoke to me in a way that I don’t really think any other traditional German music speaks to me,” says Baumgärtner of the genre. In a town cluttered with more of the same indie rock, Audition was a stylistic relief with its unorthodox band instrumentation, foreign lyricism and especially its exuberant live productions. “We really enjoyed vamping it up for the Audition shows, feather boas and all,” says multi-instrumentalist Amy Bramblett. What was only intended to be a “fun summer project” ended up lasting three years but eventually concluded after it’s novelty faded away. “We had done the German cabaret thing, and I feel that we had covered all my favorite songs from that era, and so we started to kind of struggle a little bit to find material,” says Baumgärtner. “I musically was ready for something else.” That something else was Baumgärtner’s attempt to truly pursue her art as a career — her final musical endeavor, Dancer Vs. Politician. Before moving back to Berlin for what she had thought would be the final time, Baumgärtner worked on “A City Half-Lost,” Dancer Vs. Politician’s only album. Though considered complete upon her departure, the LP’s tracklist was further expanded through musical connections made in Berlin and tweaked with each of her frequent trips back to the states, making it international both in lyricism and lineup. “We pretty much recorded what I thought was the full album here, but then in Berlin we added a couple more songs,” says Baumgärtner. “But

PH OTO CO U RT ESY SA N N I BAU M GÄ R T N E R

then it became this kind of mixture of recording some there, bringing it back here and mixing it. So it was kind of a collaboration really between the people in Berlin and the people here.” The result was an autumn soundtrack that stylistically fell between Nico, Belle and Sebastian and The Postal Service, all of whom Baumgärtner cites as direct influences. And though this was Baumgärtner’s strongest effort yet, the appeal of the profession in her new musical setting quickly began to wane. In Berlin, she learned the unfortunate truth of how little the industry has to do with the art itself, something that made her question playing music at all. “I wanted to live a life as a musician, and I thought I was pursuing that by moving to Berlin,” says Baumgärtner. “It just became so much about promoting myself and promoting the music that it really took the fun out of it on a really deep level for me. It made me unhappy to an extent that it actually made me sick, and I just wanted to step away from music altogether.” So she did. After moving back to Athens for what appears to be a permanent residency, Baumgärtner opened Community, a project she has widely become known for, though previously impossible due to the spontaneity of touring. Her work in clothing might seem like a drastic change from music, but for Baumgärtner, it’s a supplement to the channel her previous exertion offered before the industry interfered. “I think that in the store and in the clothing line and in the fashion I have a different creative outlet, but I think the creativity comes from the same place. Like, it’s a different expression, but it’s the same kind of creativity that I used for music,” says Baumgärtner. She currently shows no immediate signs of returning to her previous passion, but the potential of it happening sometime in the distant future still lingers faintly. “I don’t miss it, and so right now I don’t know if I’ll go back to playing music,” says Baumgärtner. “But I could imagine that once my life is a little less busy with what it is now that maybe I’ll pick it up again one day.” And with a musical background as rich as hers, we can only hope so. ​ NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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S T Y L E D BY C H A N D L E R J O H N S T O N & K A I L E Y P R O F E TA P H OTO S BY C H A R L O T T E B L E A U H A I R A N D M A K E U P BY A M A N DA C O O P E R MODELS JASMINE BEVERLY BOBBY BURRES NIKITA MEKA KAREN POWELL ISHANA RATAN KODIAK SAUER

AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2014

Fall is the perfect time for outdoor entertaining. Plaid, autumnal patterns and soft textures create looks ready for changing weather. An intimate party with close friends is the perfect way to show off rustic fall clothing and outerwear.


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On Ishana: Top, $39, Agora Co-op. Sweater cape, $48, Dynamite. NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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On Kodiak: Button-down, $22, Leather jacket, $38, Dynamite. Boots, $22, The Pope on Prince.

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On Karen: Marc Jacobs top, $20, The Pope on Prince. Snakeskin skirt, $60, Sweater, $20, Community.


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On Nikita: Top, $12, The Pope on Prince. Leather skirt, $65, Community. Bag, $42, Dynamite.

NOVEMBER 2014 AMPERSAND

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On Bobby: Shirt, $26, Community. Boots, $38, The Pope on Prince.

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AMPERSAND NOVEMBER 2014

On Jasmine: Trousers, $18, The Pope on Prince. On Nikita: Blazer, $22, The Pope on Prince.


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BY GREYSON IKE

emember when going to the doctor’s for an eye exam was as daunting and unexciting as going to the dentist’s for a cavity check? Wearing glasses was something reserved for the brainy kids, the librarians or perhaps your grandpa. Recently, however, eyewear has become a new and unique way to accessorize. Glasses are

increasingly providing a way to express personal style. Walking down Broad Street you might see people sporting thick frames, thin frames, black frames, colored frames and many may own more than one pair; it all depends on the look they want for the day. Even those who don’t need glasses will wear them — simply to make a fashion statement.

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So when did this happen? When did a pair of lenses meant to improve your vision become something to augment your appearance? Jim Adams, owner of Adams Optics in downtown Athens, explains, “People don’t look at your Chuck Taylors when passing you by. They look at your face.” Adams, who has been in the business for over 30 years, has seen the unfolding evolution of eyewear from function to fashion. He says the industry grew when manufacturers needed ways to keep customers buying and began to introduce and change different optical styles. Having started at a high-end eyewear store in Atlanta before starting his own business in Athens in 1975, he has witnessed how expensive these constant changes can be. That’s why the approach at Adams Optics is a little different, keeping every pair of quality glasses at a relatively cheap, fixed price. “For $99, you can come into my store and change your look,” says Adams. It will stay this way, too; Adams is adamant about continuing with the same, no-strings-attached price policy that he has had for years. “It’s a pride thing,” he comments. Pride in keeping an open and fair relationship with his customers, so that they can leave the store content that the pair of glasses they’ve bought is truly the best fit. Adams is more concerned with giving you a

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pair of glasses that you like and want rather than just having you buy the most expensive set of glasses and turn back out the door. In his store, you can pick any of the many styles; it all depends on which one you want to sport — and what’s more, he’ll help you achieve that at Adams Optics. “I’ll tell you the truth. If the glasses suck, I’ll tell you,” Adams comments, describing his process of finding the perfect pair of frames for each individual. As customers come in, they might be given five, seven, maybe ten varying pairs of glasses to try out. Adams puts as much effort into finding a style that fits as

People don’t look at your Chuck Taylors when passing you by. They look at your face.

careful, passionate approach to helping his customers build a “look” is what keeps them coming back. Countless students and Athenians stay loyal to Adams Optics, and some remain customers even outside of Athens — one, Adams mentions, now living in Brooklyn. Though Adams Optics has styles ranging from basic to retro to futuristic to funky, Adams mentions that the latest fashion trend leans toward throwing it back. Tortoise shell is one of the most popular picks, along with wooden frames and big, plastic glasses that, in the words of Adams, “ten years ago were nerd glasses,” are increasingly becoming the frames of choice. Maybe people are taking some fashion tips from old pictures of mom and dad. What it boils down to, however, as Adams previously stated, is personal style and expression. People are more willing to don a pair of thick-framed, attentiongrabbing glasses today because it’s something they want others to look at. No longer are people trying to hide the fact that they need glasses with contacts or thin, basic frames. People are taking that set of frames and using them just as they would any other accessory — as a way to express your unique style to the world. Adams is right in saying that the face is the first thing you look at; so why not decorate it?

one might put into finding a prescription that fits, making sure that anyone – even the college student on a budget – achieves the look they want. The frames fill the store as individual entities, each one unique and able to be paired with any prescription lens needed. Adams has even gotten creative with his work. Adams Optics can create unique glasses by taking clear frames and dying them different colors, ranging from blue, to red, to green, to fading combinations. This


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ith the stress of finals and the pressure of picking the perfect present for each person on your list, it can be easy to resort to dull LBDs and sequined miniskirts. In the spirit of giving, we’ve provided you with inspiration to help you transition from drab to fab this holiday season. Add some luxe to party dresses and gowns with furs, evening gloves and retro silhouettes, channeling your inner Grace Kelly with these holiday fashion finds.

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Vintage fur, $49, Agora Vintage. Rebecca Taylor dress, $88, Earrings, $14, Dynamite.

Dress, $75, Agora Vintage.


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Dress, $75, Agora Vintage. Faux fur shrug, $38, Necklace, $22, Dynamite.

Sari top, $49, Vintage fur hat, $35, Agora Vintage. Culottes, $16, Community.

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Gown, $42, The Pope on Prince. Faux fur coat, $48, Agora Vintage.

Christian Dior gown, price upon request: contact Agora Vintage, 706 -354-7303. Gloves, $15, Agora Vintage.

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BY RACHEL EUBANKS P H O T O S BY S Y D N E Y W I L D E R

He’s often the first person customers see when walking into Seabear Oyster Bar: silvery-gray hair, a full black beard and a classic combination of fitted denim, leather work boots, and plaid flannel. Whether he’s biking down Boulevard or serving up a pint of Creature Comforts, local culinary professional Ryan Sims reveals his impeccable sense of style. Having lived in Atlanta and New York, Sims expresses a style that encompasses the boldness of his urban lifestyle with his independent identity in the culinary world. As a student at UGA, he got his start in the Athens food scene while working at the beloved Mama’s Boy. Sims then moved on to Hugh Acheson’s 5&10, experienced the allure of working in upscale dining and committed to his culinary career. After letting go of any hesitation to pursue a full-time career in food, Sims says, “I wanted to work as hard as I could and learn as much as I could. It’s cool to keep the foodie culture, for whatever it’s worth, alive.” After the ups and downs of his personal and professional life during his 20s, when Sims approached his 30s, his life began to settle. Sims explains that at that time, “I really started to feel like I’m understanding who I am. It happened when I decided what my career should be and what I was after in life.” With these realizations, Sims also came into his own style. Before moving to New York, he struggled with feeling like he needed to wear what others were wearing rather than what he wanted. In high school, that meant SoCal style from Abercrombie. In college, Sims snagged worn-in tees from local thrift shops because of his devotion to The Strokes. Eventually, Sims settled on being himself: a man who cares about his personal style and takes pride in buying classic American menswear.

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Three Athens chefs take us through their closets to show how to balance comfort with style in the city’s best kitchens.

Pastry Chef Shae Rehmel got her start in one of Athens’ favorite casual dining spots, Big City Bread Cafe. At seventeen, she started her long-term relationship with dough by cutting, weighing and shaping the bakery’s staple. After realizing that a typical life at college just wasn’t for her, Rehmel left UGA to work for Hugh Acheson at 5&10, where she found the right environment for her career path to unfold. After prepping cold menu items as Acheson’s garde manger, Rehmel left her hometown of Athens for culinary school at the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. There she completed internships in working kitchens and hopped from Vermont to Colorado to Boston, eventually returning to Athens to start her career in the kitchen. Nearly a year ago, Rehmel started working for Chef Mimi Maumus at home.made, where she now creates desserts for the company’s catering business and weekly lunch hours. Back in their Baxter Street kitchen, she finds comfort in the simplicity of her style and the choice of wearing a uniform. Rehmel believes in the privilege of wearing what so many talented chefs have worn before her: “There’s something a little bit fashionable about [uniforms] because it’s what a lot of people have worn for many, many years.” Chef’s whites don’t strip individuals of their style; they act as a badge of honor for what has become a culturally-valued profession. Underneath her prep shirt, Rehmel most often wears simple black tops with minimal accessories and classic Gap jeans that fit her tall frame. No matter if she’s in the kitchen or back at home with fiance Ryan Sims, Rehmel chooses clothing that is “clean, streamlined and simple.” Rehmel thinks of her style the way she thinks of a concept in the kitchen: never add something to the plate, or the outfit, that just doesn’t fit. Every piece should have purpose and provide cohesion, whether it’s in an after-work outfit or details on a cake being prepped for catering. As Rehmel explains, “just using good ingredients and keeping it really simple is a nice way to enjoy the purity of something.”


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Three pieces he can’t live without: • Red Wing Heritage boots • A red flannel button-up he’s worn paper-thin • His favorite pair of jeans: J. Crew 484 Selvedge denim Style icons & inspirations: • Christopher Bastin, creative director of clothing brand Gant Rugger • Chris John Millington, model for Apothecary 87, a brand that makes “grooming products for real men” • Ricki Hall, professional model Biggest piece of style advice: “You can pull off anything with confidence.”

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Three pieces she can’t live without: • Laurel Hill silver Crop Circle hoops - “They’ll go with anything, without a doubt.” • Clarks leather Faraway Field shoes • Tortoise-shell patterned glasses from Adam’s Optics Style icons & inspirations: • Menswear-inspired clothes with a feminine touch • The slightly female version of Daniel Day Lewis in There Will Be Blood- rugged, durable, and turn-of-thecentury, but with a crisp and minimal overall aesthetic Biggest piece of style advice: “Always go for comfort and always make sure your laundry day clothes aren’t terrible. The bottom of the barrel should not be the bottom of the barrel.”

Pastry Chef Jo Nicol started her culinary career in an unexpected place–snacking on warm cookies in the back of a Schlotzsky’s Deli. Although she has moved on to more sophisticated kitchens, from that first job Nicol knew her draw to food, saying to herself, “you could really do this. You could hang out in a kitchen and make delicious treats all the time.” Nicol found her first real position in the kitchen as an assistant pastry chef at home.made. Having only worked front-of-house, Nicol made the jump to learn about desserts, soon moving to The Branded Butcher, where she worked on her own to develop menus and formulate new recipes. Now, as the pastry chef at Heirloom, Nicol feels free to express herself as a professional, acknowledging that “maybe I really am a pastry chef.” 42

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With her current work at Heirloom, Nicol spends nearly 40 hours a week in the pint-sized kitchen on the corner of Boulevard and Chase. She maintains her personal style by choosing menswear-inspired button-ups and comfortable leather Clarks. As Nicol explains, “I really like buttondown shirts, which are great for working with flour.” While t-shirts absorb flour, the crispness of button-ups keeps the essential ingredient from covering her while also being loose enough to feel comfortable during a 9-hour day. Between her favorite t-shirt–a comfy deep v-neck–and a pair of black Joe’s Jeans she scored off a sale rack at Anthropologie, Nicol’s style is all about comfort and practicality. By pairing a few simple pieces with unique accessories, Nicol expresses her personal style, both in the kitchen and around Athens.


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Scarves that Buy an Education BY LAURA JAMES

A

scarf makes a fashion statement and so does a woman’s education. Michelle Blue and Sasha Matthews are making statements. Blue and Matthews are best friends and together own Bené — a company that sells fashionable scarves and uses their revenue to support, educate and empower girls in marginalized communities in Ghana.

PH OTO S CO U RT ESY B E N É

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Blue, who graduated in 2013 from the University of Georgia with a degree in marketing and a minor in fashion merchandising, originally thought of the idea to start Bené after she studied abroad in Ghana with the College of Family and Consumer Sciences. Sasha Matthews, Blue’s best friend throughout middle and high school, decided to become her business partner. “Sasha’s my best friend and business partner. It’s great!” Blue says. Blue was inspired by the girls she met in Ghana and wanted to find a way to give back. Matthews also has a heart for helping others. Although Matthews grew up in Atlanta, she was born in Jamaica. “My family moved to this country for better educational opportunities. This whole [idea] about being able to give back to women and young girls in a country where you have to pay for everything, I’ve always connected with that,” Matthews says. Matthews graduated in 2013 from Florida A&M University with a degree in mathematics. Matthews works as a senior analyst at a company in Cincinnati, but works on Bené part-time. Matthews and Blue did not build this company overnight, though. The two originally wanted to launch an entire clothing line, but in the two years between Blue’s

study abroad trip and the actual launch of Bené, they found their focus. “We definitely had a lot of trial and error,” Blue says with a laugh. “Yeah, people don’t really know about all of that — how long it actually takes. When I was in New York, I was meeting with pattern makers and manufacturers to try to get that on its way and we just realized that’s not what we do. I went to school for business marketing and fashion merchandising. Sasha was a mathematics major, so neither one of us are designers.” The two had a few samples of scarves that they liked and they decided to narrow their clothing line to only scarves. “With the scarves, you don’t have to worry about size or fit,” Blue says. “Every woman can wear a scarf and it’s a statement piece within itself.” Bené offers a variety of styles and patterns of scarves. Customers can customize their scarf on their website from style of scarf, the fabric and the trim. The company is currently online only. The co-founders of Bené decided to partner with SISTAWorks, which stands for Stay-In-School Tuition Assistance Program. SISTAWorks, Inc., is a non profit organization that helps girls from rural areas in Ghana complete their secondary school

education. Blue and Matthews chose to partner with SISTAWorks because they wanted an organization that would allow them to show their customers exactly where their money was going. “We really wanted to provide transparency to our customers so they could learn more and more about the girls we support, hear their stories, you know, get a face to it all,” Blue says. “SISTAWorks was great. It aligned with our mission — women empowerment, providing an education and an opportunity.” Bené’s website features the five girls that Bené has pledged to put through school for one full year. They pay for their tuition, books and uniforms. The website showcases pictures of all of the girls and their individual stories. As a start-up company, Bené has not turned a profit yet, but Blue and Matthews have pledged to put these five girls through school no matter how much revenue they make. “The more we grow, the more we can support,” Matthews says. “When we said we’re committing to these five girls, they get their support regardless if Michelle and I make $1 in profit or $1,000. They come first. They get what we’ve pledged to give. As we grow, we can take on more girls.”

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the patterns and the way the fabric feels and the way it looks on Autumn Adams, a UGA student, thinks the charity aspect of them. Outside the fact that they’re getting to help these girls and Bené is appealing to a lot of customers. “I think it’s awesome. I put people through school, they’re getting really great scarves don’t think enough people do it. A lot of their proceeds go to their too. I think people see both aspects of that, and that’s what’s charity; it’s not, you know, just 20 percent or anything like that. rolled into their purchase decision. And that’s what makes them They really are doing it with a greater cause in mind. They’re not want to be a part of something like this. They just trying to make money for themselves,” she love the girls, and they love the scarves.” says. Like with any start-up company, risk is a Adams met Blue and Matthews when they factor. But for Blue and Matthews, the desire to reached out to her through The Agency, a see their vision through outweighed any posmodeling organization on campus, to model sible risks. Matthews says that even though for their first scarf collection at Bené. She has there are risks, she is in the best position to since modeled for two more photo shoots for take those risks than she would be at any other Bené. Adams says she thinks the scarves are time in her life. cute — so much so that she bought one for her “If not now, then when?” she asks. “Now mom for Christmas. is the time that I don’t have a family. I don’t With the prices ranging from $55-$85, the have ‘real responsibilities.’ Yes, there are risks scarves are not exactly college-budget-friendly, involved, but I’m in a position to take those but Adams says it’s worth it. “I just think it’s risks now more so than I would be at 35 with kind of hard right now since we’re college stua mortgage.” dents,” she says. “Even though a $35 scarf is not Blue agrees with her business partner. “Afthat big of a deal, to us, that can buy gas and ter college, I knew I wanted to do this fulltime, food for the week. If I had a steady income, I so it’s kind of like it’s a risk with anything like would definitely purchase it. I don’t think it’s this that you try to do,” she says. “There’s no too overpriced, especially with what they’re doing. You have to price it at a certain spot in — Sasha Matthews steady income. There’s a lot of uncertainty with entrepreneurship and starting a business. order to be able to give back.” We’re investing our own money — that’s always a risk. We could Matthews says their customers have been very receptive to lose it. There are a lot of risks, but we’re so in love with this and Bené’s mission and their product. “When they hear the story, so excited about it that the risks really couldn’t keep us away they fall in love, and even more so, the cause behind it, they actufrom moving forward.” ally love the product too,” Matthews says. “They’re attracted to

“Being able to give back to women and young girls in a country where you have to pay for everything, I’ve always connected with that.”

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