BEYOND THE BREAK
Winter 2012
Photo: Adam Rondelet
PUBLICATION OF THE SURFING ASSOCIATION OF NOVA SCOTIA
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Go Canada Go!
The Lone Nova Scotian Representing Canada at 2012 ISA World Juniors By: Colin Colson
It was only a matter of time before I started wondering what this whole surf thing was about. I live a stones throw away from the main stage of surfing in Nova Scotia, Lawrencetown Beach. I began surfing at the age of 12. At first I only got out a couple of times each summer. With a winter suit added to my equipment and a new board, I was able to get out in all types of weather, that we experience here on the East Coast. I was hooked! Surfing with lots of helpful, more experienced surfers allowed me to learn at an accelerated pace, and if I had it my way, I’d be out every day. I’m 16 years old and have competed in local contests, earning points, which have qualified me for the DaKine ISA World Junior Surf Competition. This year it’s in Panama from April 14th-22nd/2012. This trip is HUGE for me!! I’m so stoked and I can’t believe I’m going to be representing my country. I’m representing Canada’s East Coast along with 5 others from the West Coast. With this comes lots of fundraising. However, as it is just me on this side of the country, it becomes a bit more challenging. So far, we have had a bottle drive in our community and are planning another one
Colin Colson Is the lone “East Coast Kid” heading to Panama in April, representing Canada at the ISA World Junior Surf Competition
soon. Many thanks to the members of Christian Surfers Canada, who came out to help us in this huge undertaking. We have also put donation jars in several locations around the area in which people may contribute as they wish. Mom and Dad have set up an account to which friends, family and other surfers are able to donate funds. Local surf shop KANNON BEACH has offered to support me with equipment as needed and Jamieson’s Irish House and Grill has helped out tremendously with the flights.
Another venture we’re hoping to have is an auction. Stay tuned to www.surfns.com and our Facebook page for more details. For any further information or should you wish to donate funds, please feel free to contact us at dougcolson@eastlink.ca.
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Winter on Cape Breton Island by: Michelle Richards August 28th brings one of the first major hurricanes. The beach at Point Michaud is ordered to close. Surfers anticipate large ground swells that will bring the nearby sleepy spots awake. The highlight of this season becomes Hurricane Katia. Consistent high period ground swell continues for 4 days. Other tropical depressions and hurricanes from the south pass by quicker. Strong winds are a factor in selecting surf spots accordingly with these storms.
is a north swell that sends in some of the largest waves to Cape Breton for the autumn season. It falls off the radar of most surfers since it will not reach the majority of Nova Scotia coastline. The source is a system off Cape Cod traveling to Newfoundland. It explodes out of there back down into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and north facing locations of Cape Breton. Buoy’s read 20 feet at 14 sec on October 6th. Winds of 65mph in addition to swell cause the Newfoundland Ferry from Cape Breton to stay in the Sydney Harbor for days fully loaded.
Reports are continually checked to see what swell could top Katia. Most have their eyes trained to look south. However, it Surfer: Ross Robinson Photos: Jacob L Moginot
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
A location nearby picks up the swell and holds the offshore wind. The few surfers out enjoy kilometer long rides along the shore. The day does not have any lulls. Corduroy lines continue to reel between chest high to 15-foot waves all day. North swells are a sign that summer is definitely over and before long winter replaces fall. A Halloween storm did just that by dumping the first snowfall in the Highlands. The Cabot Trail changed with autumn leaves at one bend and snow covered pines on another. Along the Gulf of St.Lawrence, the onshore wind blew giant sea foam balls around. The coastline there is an endless sight of white water. On the Atlantic side of the Highlands, snow is whispped off the tops towards the ocean. The water below explodes with breaking peaks everywhere. It is in the sheltered cove of Neil’s Harbor that the swell is most organized. Offshore winds hold the chest to overhead sets breaking on either side of the river mouth.
Photo: Levon James Drover
The winter season this year, oddly enough becomes dominated by South West swells afterwards. Not the Nor’ Easter storms, usually known of winter. Lawrencetown buoys read higher than Cape Breton buoys, due to the South West swell direction. Wind is a determining factor of where to surf on all larger swells. Selecting the right break becomes key. Using a high bluff of land to block out wind is wise. Extreme wind chill can shorten any surfer’s session quickly due to the onset of hypothermia. Surfing alone is not exactly recommended but I found myself doing exactly that with solo sessions all winter. Most Cape Breton surfers hit the hills to snowboard instead of paddling out. Many do not have the required winter wetsuit. Having the right gear of a 4x4, map, binoculars, 6’5 mm wetsuit and snowsuit helped me when scouting the island more thoroughly. New and old spots were dialed into. At least, not all the waves on Cape Breton went unridden.
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Warm Waves & Vitamin D Travel Notes from Costa Rica By: Jill Manos
As most Nova Scotian’s would agree, February and March are the worst months of the winter. The dark and gloomy days become depressing and seem to never end. Although this winter has been quite mild compared to most, we lacked consistent swell and some much needed vitamin D. Shubanacadie Sam saw his shadow, so we assume six more weeks of winter lie ahead of us; perfect time for a vacation. 72 hours before departure, Nico arrived home from Ireland. I eagerly emptied his boardbag of winter wetsuits and other cold weather gear and refilled it with boardshorts and bikinis.
Playa Grande Inn has the best 'arroz con pollo' of all of the spots we ate at, and I hear they make a mean fruit smoothie. Marbar had the best feel, super friendly staff and huge portions, so delicious; I could eat gallo pinto for every meal. We surfed everyday, at least once, sometimes more depending on the tide. With perfect 3-6ft offshore beach break, Playa Grande is a great place for a wide range of surfing abilities. The main peak can be quite busy with locals and higher caliber surfers, however, the further south you move down beach, the less intimidating and less crowded it becomes. I rode my 5'10 JS Nitro and Nico rode his 5'10 JS Mystery the entire trip; both boards were great for the conditions. Most people rode short boards, but there were a few great long boarders or retro riders in the lineup. Everyone was really friendly and frequently inquired about traveling to Nova Scotia during hurricane season.
This year we stayed in Playa Grande, a great little surf community with three main hotels and a few other smaller places to stay. We stayed at Las Tortugas Hotel, which has a few lovely apartments set back from the beach about 500m. Each of these rooms has its own kitchenette so you could chill Our family has been to Playa Grande three times in the past 5 years; it’s where I caught my first wave, and hopefully, many your Imperial for each evenings sunsets, and housed playful more. monkeys atop the trees surrounding the private rooms. For budget travelers they have Ranchos, which start at $30 per night and have lumpy bunks BUT do have AC. Most of the restaurants have amazing food (especially Rip Jacks, if you are willing to pay a little more);
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
8th Annual Point Michaud Surf Classic By: Michelle Richards Photos: Scotty Sherin
A few feet of surfable consistent waves continue throughout the day. The fog does not let up however, with light prevailing winds. The brightly colored Billabong rash guards help with judging in conditions like these.
Saturday morning August 27th, the Point Michaud Beach parking lot starts to fill up with local surfers and many who have traveled from the HRM area with their families. Everyone is quick to help out by erecting large tents, carrying surfboards and wetsuits to the beach and placing sponsor prizes and trophies on display.
Everyone is a winner at the award ceremony! All participants receive awesome prizes sponsored by Billabong, Kustom, Quiksilver, Roxy, Bridget Turner Jewelry, Lokol, Rise and Ride, Kannon Beach, IfOnly, Luke’s Skim Boards, One Life Surf and West 49 in addition to hand made shell trophies and certificates.
The event kicks off with the open division. Over 30 people run into the water at the same time for the 20 min showdown. The top 6 finalists place in each different division held through out the day. Whether you are the youngest or oldest, boy or girl surfer you go head to head in most divisions. Rides are taken together in party wave fashion when the sets roll in because of such large numbers in heats.
Crowds were entertained by Cape Breton Island Bands both Friday and Saturday evening. They include Heartwood Slacks, Black Tooth Grin, Den Scholars and My Dog Sam at the Bras D’or Lakes Inn and MacBouch Tavern venues in St.Peters.
Surfer: Sam Julien
For all the contest results go to www.surfpointmichaud.com or the facebook group, “Surf Point Michaud.”
Surfer: Colin Colson
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
One Life Surf 2012 Event Run-Down
2012 Calendar of Events:
Women’s Expression Session: March to June window email: info@onelifesurf.com to get on the notification list. this is a women's surf contest for all levels. the list will get 24 hours notices and a spot to meet. Results will be announced at the June 8th dance party at the seahorse!
March 31: Nor’Easter waiting period begins April 1,7,8: Nor’Easter waiting period June: 8th One Life Surf Party
HAWT Shots 2.0 Photo Contest: submission dates May 1st to May 30st
SANS Annual General Meeting (Date TBA)
Categories: - best female, male - best winter male/female - best long board male/female - best short board male/female - best travel
August: 4,5: Why Can’t We All Just Get a Longboard Contest 25, 26: Point Michaud Surf Classic
Rules TBD but plan for the same as last year. Attendees can vote between 7:30pm-9:30pm June 1st at the Seahorse. Drop off photos in the month leading up to the show (May).
September: Storm Surf Classic (all weekends) October: Canadian Surf Film Festival (TBA)
Photos must be 8"x11" or less in size first two entries are $5 each after that you can submit as many as you want BUT only your first two photos are guaranteed to be hung (depends on capacity) Some of the categories may be judged by a jury (we dont want to spend all night counting ballots!) Amazing prizes from the coolest sponsors! Photos will be put on display at the Seahorse on June 1st. Dance Party: June 8th at the Seahorse. Event will start off early with the Hawt shots Photos, attendees vote for their favorites! Followed by a red-hot music line up. Not to be missed! 7PM – 2AM For more info and to see results from last year’s event, visit www.onelifesurf.com
The 9th Annual PMSC is now accepting sponsors!
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
The 4th Annual Seaforth Film & Photo Festival By: Lisa Privett
The 4th Annual Seaforth Film & Photo Festival Gala was held this past November 26th, 2011. This very special event was first started back in 2008 by members of the Seaforth Hall and surrounding Eastern Shore communities and it has been growing exponentially since then. The volunteers who make the festival happen and the festival attendees have been amazed every year by the talent that exists within our small seaside communities. Films and photos are accepted to the Festival a few weeks prior to the Gala evening, no one is turned away but we do require that it is a person’s original work and would prefer that films are not in slideshow format and that photographs are printed on photo paper and ready to hang. The doors open at 7pm for wine, cheese and mingling, and to allow the audience to view and vote for their choice of the photography entries. The film screenings start at 8pm, with a short intermission halfway through the show. There are many awards given out for the entries, including the Best Dressed award, as the community seems to have made this an event to
John and Judith Brannen
be seen at in their finest finery. This year’s Best Dressed winner was the fabulous Dee Dee Morris. We try to ensure everyone receives some recognition for their creative efforts. All of the awards are voted on by the gala attendees. 2011 Festival winners (Film): Best Experimental Film – "2eaf0r7h" by Andrew Pearson Best Dog/Animal/Pet Film - "August at the Beach, Part 1 and 2" by Mary Taplin Best Kids Film – "Tim Toms Longboard Adventure" by Juel Maerz and Tony Balony People's Choice (Film) winners: 1st "Surf Lessons" by Krista Stacey 2nd "February Break" by March Break Kids Group 3rd "the other brannen girl" by Sarah Zollinger This year’s festival - our 5th annual, will be held Saturday November 24th 2012. Entries must be submitted by November 10, 2012. For more information check out our Facebook group or e-mail us at seaforthhall@hotmail.com
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012 Gala MC Andrew Pearson
Juel Maerz, winner of 2011 Kids Films and Maya Hoehne, festival volunteer
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
The Most Isolated Inhabited Place in the World By: Amy Schwartz Photos: Amandine Gruffa
I have never been anywhere like this. Sitting alone as the sun burns off the cool morning blue sky, a hopeful line yawns over the shoal and putters out. With nothing else on the horizon, I settle my chin into my palm, adjust my bikini so it doesn’t dig into my burn and watch the rocky ledge sway past my dangling feet. My flowery pedicure looks nice in this clear water. After days of gunshot rights this morning’s sleepy sets give me some time to unthread how overwhelmed I feel by this perfect island. The blanket of curvy green volcanos, the sage faces of ancestors captured in enormous rock, the shamelessly resplendent flowers of every pink, red and yellow, the lines of red soil and thick black ledges, circled by a deep indigo that only a place thousands of miles in the middle of the pacific could craft. Everything in Rapa Nui (Easter Island) is as it should be: It’s waves throw you in fast, urge you be creative and strong, release you with a punch and sometimes a spin close to the crusty bottom, just enough of a spanking to remind you how fragile you are; And it’s people sparkle with the kind of selfassuredness that comes from living exactly as they want. Nothing is too big of a deal to warrant stress. During a scorching afternoon of fishing with our host Sasha and her friend Pina, they hand me a line, let me pick my perch and I get to learn for myself how to avoid getting my hook caught on the scraggly rocks – no need to fuss about the clumsy foreign gal, she’ll get it eventually. I notice that all the visitors are treated with this genuine respect – they don’t see you as an enigma, a dollar symbol, sex potential, or a nuisance. Stripped of all the othering normally pinned on tourists, making real friends here is easy. Pina and Sasha cast their lines hoping for a catch big enough to share with family and friends for our good-bye bbq. They smile easily and laugh deeply, pudgy bellies sunning between their bras and shorts. Even more than the thousands of archealogical wonders that litter a space only 12 kms by 24 kms, it is the unassuming poise of this people that makes it so magical.
The men here are no less strong and generous than these fisherwomen. Bodies sculpted by the sea, long dark hair, black patterned tattoos. They are dancers and they move with beautiful masculinity, nothing to show off – just the glow of connecting with rhythm and pride of animating their culture. Best of all they rock it in handmade thongs – this being the traditional garb for luge runs down the sides of volcanos on banana trees, running triathalons in the crater and such. I decide that the ridiculous whistles, squeaky kissy sounds and predictable comments that I ignore when I get out of the water in Lima would be welcome from this crowd. But here the gender roles aren’t so strictly separated, and that which is feminine isn’t considered less worthy. Interactions are based on respect, women are not weak, and there is nothing unusual or surprising about me in the water, except that my white (now red) arse sticks out like a sore thumb. Of the 150ish surfers here at least 20 or so are female and from what I observed the local guys never paddle around them. A long line comes crashing over the shoal, I sit up, push for the inside, slide to my feet for the punchy drop and cruise easily up and down the smiling face, I jiggy the board through a slow spot, muster a bit of speed for a swing up to the lip and pump quickly for the surprisingly long and snappy end. I love this wave – even when it is small. On my first morning I was doubtful that good surf existed – the ocean looked more like the disorder of a spring storm in Nova Scotia than the uninterrupted lines of 16 second bliss I was expecting. But Rapa Nui’s other charms worked their magic on me right away. As my friend Amandine and I wander past giant stone faces in search of a place to pitch a tent on our first morning here, long-haired boys ride by on horses, I smell the fish-filled empanadas carts, munch on an ice-cream cone pineapple that leeches sweetness all over my face, and watch a group of hand-carvers reveal stories in their wood rounds as part of today’s cultural competition.
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Eventually someone points us to Sasha’s house. A friend of mine camped on her lawn a year before and asked me track her down and get her contact info. Her place is right in the centre of Hanga Roa nestled on a small private beach behind a row of shops. When she offers her lawn and shower we jump at it, not imagining the generosity of stories, fish, family gatherings and daily adventures that was to come. Upon finding out my nationality, her tipsy uncle intricately draws all over a horse jaw and presents it to me as a special gift to thank the Canadian doctor who cured his leprosy in the early 60s (this will make customs interesting). Back then the Rapa Nui were kept in a cage-like reserve and weren’t permitted to leave the island for medical treatment. The Chilean government’s ugly rule, which included kidnapping people to work on the mainland, nasty sexual and physical violence and diseases from ‘the continent’ decimated the population. Added to the losses from clan wars the population was reduced from 9000 in the mid 18th century to only 111 by the mid-19th century. The roughly 5000 who remain now have special status in Chile; they don’t pay taxes and people from the ‘continent’ cannot own land there – which has thankfully saved it from garish tourism development. Although they are dependent on Chile for things like cars, gas, processed food, they have a sourness about the laws that keep most of the land in the possession of the Chilean government, including all of the coast within 80 meters of the high tide line. The Rapa Nui only own small plots of land in the main part of the island.
Perhaps it is the recent memory of the systematic efforts to extinguish their society that compels such grand indulgence in their culture. We happened to be there for Tarapati, the annual 15-day festival of sport and artistic competition between two groups of families, each represented by a young beauty ‘queen’ candidate. Everybody proudly participates – rowing, swimming, body-surfing on reed boards, bare-backed horse races and long nights of dance, music, fashion shows on the massive stage of hand painted-murals. Everything is free of charge, mind-blowingly colourful and dripping in soulful passion for who they are as a people. I admire the Rapa Nui and their ability to live simply and joyfully on tourism income and land rentals. They have no social classes or desire to enter the stressful race to “success”. They just get it; an entire society with their priorities aligned right. Yesterday evening, sitting on the bench out front of our tent, trying to take it all in with a sundowner of Chilean chardonnay in hand, whiff of barbecue in the salt air, enjoying the spoils of Sasha’s first place finish in the Tarapati fishing competition and listening to the jingley sounds of ukeleles of the show getting started just over the hill. We watch the merry-go-round of brave surfers swoop along double-overhead pant-shitters. While we laugh about our latest hitchhiking experience, the 500m long volcanic cave we wandered through, biking up the never ending hill after an afternoon at the white-sand beach, my attention flicks back to the wave and I wonder if I have it in me yet to make that drop…
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Despite the effusive descriptions in the Lonely Planet of surfing options for every level, this is a place mostly for wave-riding experts and crazies. Apart from a fun left in the centre of town, most spots have too much power and size for the beginner. The options for the intermediate aren’t all that varied – a couple of waves in the main bay and apparently another further down the coast. Admittedly I never tired of the punchy long walls of one of the funnest rights I have ever met. Although I paid my dues once when the bursty drop made my normally shiftless top pull a superbowl-Janet that wasn’t easy to correct for my focus on speeding down the line of this overhead gem. The guys paddling across to reach the next couple of waves in the set got a good laugh at my awkward predicament. Anyway, if overhead isn’t enough and you like A-frames that tower until they block the sun, pitch fast, suck and then blow power from a shallow reef – then Rapa Nui is for you. The island is ringed with big spots – and a healthy smattering of sharks. Almost all of the waves are similarly large (some are very very large), and reefy. Not quite Indonesia tubular, but pretty fricken heavy. But on this last morning, lying here on my board as the tide is lazing its way out, I stare at that A-frame’s rights tell myself that today it doesn’t look quite double overhead. I am about to end my reverie and go for it, when my Chilean body-boarding buddy shows up and tells me that unless it is glassy and high-tide the wave should be avoided, because one little error and, well, hello meat grinder. We swap a few more waves, express disappointment that I am leaving today and as he twirls down the line, I see another set in the making. I take another moment to let soak in the understanding that (close to) perfect exists. There is an energy here that is beyond anything I’ve ever felt – I feel pulled to stay. As my wave nears I feel the urge to cry with the bliss of having finally made it to Rapa Nui and the ridiculousness that is my life for not just blowing it all off and staying. I slide into the next one that curls over the black rock, I wave goodbye to my buddies, caress the clear blue lip with my hand and feel a smile etched with the delicateness of something kinda like heartbreak as I bow and roll to the shore.
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
2012 Nor’Easter
Registration Now Open Photos by Adam Cornick We’re excited to partner with Quiksilver and Roxy again this year to host the annual Nor’Easter surf contest. The contest will take place on the first day with contestable surf conditions. Plan for March 31, April 1, 7, or 8. We were blessed with excellent conditions last year at Lawrencetown Beach and hope the fading winter storms will hang around for a few more weeks. There will be Open Men’s, Women’s and a Junior division (18 and under). Registration fee is $15 dollars for SANS members and $20 for non-members. Anyone who signs up for the contest will automatically receive a one year membership! Registration is now available online at www.surfns.com. Registration closes March 25.
Costal Access Committee Update How great is the new parking lot and boardwalk? It has been extremely exciting over the last few months to see surfers and nonsurfers sharing a pristine piece coastal access! SANS is happy to report positive feedback from the Cow Bay community and looks forward to officially launching the park this summer. Keep in mind, with this new park comes a friendly reminder to cover up when changing, turn down the music, and pack out your trash. Let’s be true coastal stewards and keep this park clean for everyone.
BEYOND THE BREAK Winter 2012
Thanks for reading the winter edition of Beyond the Break. While we’re sad to see the powerful winter swells fade away until next year, it’s almost time to dust off your longboard and gear up for plenty of long, sunny, classic summer days at the beach! As we brace for summer crowds, and warm water, don’t forget to check out the Surfing Association of Nova Scotia’s Annual General Meeting in June. All members are encouraged to attend. This is your chance participate in board elections, share ideas, and hang around with some great friends. Don’t forget to renew your membership if you haven’t already! If you’re not a member yet, we hope a read through this newsletter will illustrate a few of the exciting SANS-supported events happening right now on the Nova Scotia surf scene. See you at the beach for the Nor’Easter Surf Contest! - The SANS Board
Photo: Adam Rondelet