Quench September 16

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QUENCH MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2016 FOLK IN MODERN TIMES × 22 THE NEXT TIME YOU ARE SICK, RAID YOUR KITCHEN.

BY LISA HOEKSTRA MEANING OF TERROIR × 24 NOVA SCOTIA SEEMS TO HAVE NO PROBLEM DEFINING WHO THEY ARE. BY SEAN WOOD BIG. × 28 IS BIGGER BETTER? FOR SOME, WINES IT IS.

BY RICK VANSICKLE GARAGISTE × 33 BC'S GARAGISTE MOVEMENT IS GAINING STEAM.

BY TIM PAWSEY

29 46

FORTIFIED × 36 THE ROOTS IN MADIERA RUN DEEP.

BY GURVINDER BHATIA EVERYONE’S A ZINNER × 38 NO MATTER WHAT IT'S CALLED, ZINFANDEL HAS AN EXCITING LIFE. BY MICHAEL PINKUS THIS IS AN EXPOSÉ. × 41 EXPOSING THE BEAUTY OF CORSICA.

BY BRENDA MCMILLAN OPEN CELLARS × 44 THE HEART OF TERRASSES DU LARZAC IS IN THEIR WINES. BY GILLES BOIS WATER-SWOLLEN GRAPES! × 46 THE NEWEST OF WORLDS. INDIA IS THE NEXT WINEMAKING REGION TO WATCH OUT FOR.

BY RON LITEPLO

DEPARTMENTS SEPTEMBER SONG × 48 EVERY YEAR WHEN SEPTEMBER ROLLS AROUND, I THINK ABOUT THOSE LONG-AGO DAYS IN THE HIGH SCHOOL BAND.

BY NANCY JOHNSON

BEING INFLUENCED × 64 HISTORICALLY, SICILY HAS ALWAYS HELD A STRATEGIC POSITION IN THE MEDITERRANEAN AND IT'S BENEFITED FROM IT.

BY GURVINDER BHATIA

NOTED × 50 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN × 66 WINE, LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IN LIFE IT SEEMS, IS SUBJECT TO FADS AND FASHIONS.

BY TONY ASPLER SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 3

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join us in the conversation

I really enjoyed Joanne Will’s article about mindful eating [The Mindful Eating, July/August 2016]. Several of my friends have done the vegan or vegetarian diets. Some have done it for the health factors. Others for moral reasons. I haven’t tried going without meat (yet), mostly because I enjoy indulging the carnivore in me. But I do make an effort to ensure everything I buy is local and ethically raised.

Blaire Matthews, London, Ontario Isn’t it funny that no matter what we do, or how much we learn about food and drink, the rules are always changing? Artisanal and craft beers; trendy menus with interesting (read: exotic) ingredients - flavour profiles keep changing, leaving us enjoyers a bit in the lurch. Reading Tod Stewarts’ “Lighting a Match” [July/ August issue] made me feel a bit better, so I’ll keep on with my experiments.

Vince Thompson, email Love making the Korean-style Tacos that Tom de Larzac shared in "The Great Combo" [Feed, July/August issue].

Made them on Taco Tuesday for the family and it was a huge hit. Keep those delicious recipes coming!

Grace Baillieul, Halifax

for recent back issues: back.quench.me

TERROIR MEANS SO MANY THINGS TO SO MANY PEOPLE. SOME DISTINGUISH IT AS A SENSE OF PLACE. OTHERS ARE MORE LITERAL, FOCUSING ON THE SOIL AND WEATHER. There have

been times where the winemaker has been thrown into the mix — the elusive umami of vinification.

It’s difficult to pin down a meaning and that’s the way it should be. Like most things, it’s subjective. The one

4 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

thing it always involves is the distinctiveness of place. Bordeaux is different from Burgundy. Tempranillo does one thing in Spain and quite another in Portugal. Don’t get me started on Syrah.

That’s the wonder of our world. Yes, I’ve claimed it for us. We are culinary explorers. Everyday gourmets with a passion for place. We travel to unique locations and bask in the terroir. Those distinctive notes are part of our makeup.

Built into the DNA of our gourmet beings.

So it’s no wonder so many New World hot spots fight to distinguish their terroir. The Old World has spent centuries working on their definition. But we — coming from the New World — can’t rush to set things in stone.

We need to take our time and truly study what it means to us. Is it our soil and crazy weather? Is it microclimates and escarpments? Is it us? Only by looking deep into the mirror will we truly know.

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OPIM IN FOLDER TALKING GMH

with Bec Hardy & Richard Dolan

OCTOBER 8 – 23, 2016 OCTOBER 8: ST. JOHNS OCTOBER 11: HALIFAX OCTOBER 13: MONTREAL OCTOBER 15: TORONTO OCTOBER 17: SASKATOON OCTOBER 19: EDMONTON OCTOBER 20: CALGARY OCTOBER 22: VICTORIA OCTOBER 23: VANCOUVER

opim.ca

Join us as we venture to Southern Australia Bec and Richard don’t really need any introduction. They’ve been active in Opimian activities since they first joined Wines by Geoff Hardy’s team. They honeymooned in Canada way back in 2011, sharing their special time as newlyweds with Opimians across the country. Then, when they welcomed their daughter Matilda into the world, they shared that wondrous moment with us on our Facebook page. Now that Matilda is old enough to travel, we get to meet her and see them again - and we’re very excited!

Bec is the daughter of Geoff Hardy, one of Opimian’s longest standing Australian suppliers. She is the viticulturist and brand manager for Wines by Geoff Hardy, which includes Pertaringa, K1 by Geoff Hardy and Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy. You can find these wines on Cellar Offering 244 available in November 2016. After marrying Bec, Richard became the General Manager for Wines by Geoff Hardy. The two of them work together at the vineyard to prepare all the member favourites!

Reconnect with Bec and Richard (or meet them in person, if you haven’t already!) at one of their events.

CONTRIBUTORS Ron Liteplo started drinking wine as a University student in 1968. An inexpensive Spanish red called “Yago” was his entry into the wine world, and he has never ceased to love value reds. He has since toured, and led tours of, vineyards in France, Portugal, Spain, Italy, Morocco, Argentina, Chile, India, Australia and the United States, as well as Canada. He is a past-Maitre of the Commanderie de Bordeaux, and a Certified French Wine Scholar, but his palate is open to any wine from anywhere.

Whether poring over the etymology of newly discovered words, researching the latest woodworking technique or tracing the history of the sweater, an avid sense of curiosity guides Katia Jean Paul. That and an insatiable desire to deliberate on the aesthetic pleasures of the world, be it fashion, art, culture, architecture, design, food or travel. While she is a minimalist dresser at heart, she voluntarily lends her palate to every and all experiments of the culinary kind.

Sean Wood is a regular contributor to Quench, and has written for other national and international wine and spirits publications. He was a founding member of the Association of Sommeliers of the Atlantic Provinces (now CAPS, Atlantic) and taught for several years in the Sommelier Certification program.

His book, Nova Scotia Wineries and Wine Country, was published in 2006.

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SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 7

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TITOS IN FOLDER

À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 SWEET, REFRESHING FRUIT MAKES FOR A GREAT SNACK. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 MAKING BAKLAVA TAKES SOME TRIAL AND ERROR. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 14 ANTHONY NASSIF GOES FROM MILE END TO NYC. MUST TRY × 17 CAN'T GET AWAY? BRING A LITTLE FLAVOUR FROM INDIA TO YOUR KITCHEN INSTEAD. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 COOKING IN A NEAT LITTLE PACKAGE. LAZY MIXOLOGIST

BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 THE SHRUB. OR AS IT'S SOMETIMES CALLED “DRINKING VINEGAR.” BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 HOW CAN YOU TELL IF A WINE IS TOO YOUNG?

SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 9

Q SCHOOL

Crisp and clean Sweet, refreshing fruit makes for a great snack.

Whether you’re packing it in your lunch or preparing it for a cocktail party, the bite-sized chunks are the perfect combination of sweet and juicy to satisfy your munchies. The only downside is that it browns before you can enjoy it. We’ve prepared the best ways to keep fruit looking as appetizing as the moment it was cut.

BASKED IN BUBBLES

Soda water works for all fruit (try it for veggies too!) and keeps fruit fresh, crisp and white overnight. Since soda water is flavourless and sugarless, it doesn’t add any unwanted flavours to the fruit.

•• Place sliced fruit in a bowl.

•• Pour soda water in the bowl until the fruit is covered.

•• Seal the bowl with a lid or plastic wrap; shake gently to ensure fruit is covered.

•• Refrigerate until snacking time.

SPLASH OF SALT

Need to store your fruit overnight? A saltwater bath is the way to go. It’ll keep everything (apples, pears, peaches, bananas) fresh and white. Note: if you don’t rinse the fruit well, you may be in for a slightly salty treat.

•• Dissolve 1/2 tsp of salt in 1 cup of water.

•• Add your fruit slices; soak for 10 minutes.

•• Drain and store in covered bowl/container until ready to use.

•• Before eating, rinse with clear, cold water.

PLAIN OL’ WATER

Storing fruit in a Tupperware full of cold water is the easiest way to keep it fresh. Best for apple and pears, water keeps fruit fresh 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

for a couple of hours. Downside: it will make fruit soggy. Use if you’ll be snacking within the hour.

•• In a Tupperware with good seal, put fruit chunks and fill with cold water (so chunks are covered).

•• Cover and seal; shake gently to ensure all fruit is covered.

•• Place in fridge.

•• When ready to eat, drain and enjoy.

SQUEEZE OF LEMON

Lemon juice is a trick passed down from generation to generation. It’s a great way to keep any type of fruit fresh for a couple of hours (good for lunches). Be warned, it may add a slightly tart/lemony aftertaste.

•• Put all sliced fruit in a bowl.

•• Squeeze lemon juice over fruit.

•• Toss to ensure all fruit is coated.

•• Cover bowl with plastic wrap or store in an airtight container.

Keep in fridge until ready to eat.

BATHED IN HONEY

A honey bath keeps fruit and veggies fresh for up to 24 hours.

Good for weekend trips or preparing lunch the night before.

The fruit will be sweeter — anything from a slight sugar bump to cloyingly sweet.

•• In a bowl, mix 2 tbsps of honey and 1 cup of water.

•• Place sliced fruit in the mixture so it is covered, and soak for 30 seconds.

•• Remove and place on a plate or in a Tupperware. Cover and store for up to 24 hours. ×

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AMYNTAIO WINE 2 IN FOLDER

GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON

Just roll with it How difficult can it be? I often ask myself this happy question before embarking on any new dish. With trial and error, and many revisions, I come up with what I feel to be the quintessential version.

In this case, I tried many different ways to make baklava before settling on this one, which, I humbly admit, is really very good. It’s not difficult to make because the phyllo dough is already made for you and available in the freezer section at the supermarket. But it takes a bit of patience. A lot of patience. The result is a baklava that will amaze your friends.

Here are a few tips: you may need more than 1 cup melted butter. If you do, melt it and just roll with it. The phyllo rips.

Patch it together and just roll with it. To clarify butter, skim off cloudy milk solids after melting.

BAKLAVA

30 1 2 2 1

sheets phyllo dough, defrosted lb chopped walnuts tbsp sugar tsp cinnamon cup butter, melted and clarified

HONEY SAUCE

1 3/4 1 1 1

cup sugar cup water cup honey cinnamon stick or 1/2 tsp cinnamon tsp vanilla extract

× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Grease bottom and sides of a 9” x 13” pan.

3. In a food processor, process walnuts until finely minced.

Transfer to a medium bowl and toss with sugar and cinnamon.

4. Unroll phyllo dough. Cover loosely with wrap from packaging to keep it from drying out.

5. Place 1 sheet of phyllo in pan. Brush with a small amount of butter, covering sheet of phyllo completely in a thin layer.

(Seriously, I use my well-washed hand to smooth on the butter.

Phyllo rips easily. If it does, don’t worry, just use the ripped pieces, laying them side by side to make a whole sheet.)

6. Repeat, covering each sheet with butter, until you have 8 layered sheets. Gently spread 2/3 cup nut mixture over phyllo to edges.

7. Repeat with 6 sheets and butter. Spread with 2/3 cup nut mixture.

8. Repeat with 6 sheets and butter. Spread with remaining nut mixture.

9. Layer 10 additional sheets of phyllo, brushing each sheet with butter, except the top sheet. Using a spatula, press down on the layers to compress slightly. Spread remaining butter on top sheet.

10. Using a sharp knife, cut into diamond shapes or squares.

(This will make the honey sauce soak into each cut and will make it easy to serve.)

11. Bake at 350˚F about 35 to 45 minutes or until golden.

12. Meanwhile, make honey sauce: In a large saucepan, bring sugar and water to a boil over medium heat. Cook until sugar melts. Add honey, cinnamon stick (or cinnamon) and vanilla.

Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes.

Remove cinnamon stick.

13. As soon as baklava comes out of the oven, pour hot honey sauce over the top, making sure sauce drops down through cut lines. Let cool before serving. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 13

UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL

FROM MILE END TO NYC IN THE BIG APPLE, DELICATESSENS ARE VERITABLE INSTITUTIONS, AND PASTRAMI THE PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE. North of the border, howev-

er, few foods spell Montreal like smoked meat. Among the Jewish delis from New Jersey to the Upper East Side, in keeping with tradition in la Métropole, Mile End Deli slings the latter, or what Anthony Nassif calls the “much better, tastier big brother of pastrami.” “[Smoked meat] is dried cured for two weeks, then it is smoked for six, seven hours and then it is steamed for two [hours],” says the Montreal-bred chef.

“You [get] that melty, smoky, very spicy, coriander, seedy kind of flavour.”

Ensconced in the lush, trendy neighbourhood of Boerum Hill, Brooklyn since 2010 (with a second location in the more tony NoHo district of Manhattan established in 2012), Mile End Deli deals in more than just Montreal smoked meat. Tourtière (meat pie) also makes the cut, as does poutine, another distinctly Québécois offering. But moreso than its Nouvelle France-inspired bill of fare, a menu that riffs on traditional Jewish cuisine — sweet and sour meatballs, potato knishes and latkes, varenikes (or pierogies), borscht and other delicacies — with the unmistakable pluck 14 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

and brazenness of Montreal’s culinary character, sets the emerging deli apart from its age-old contemporaries.

“I’m bringing that Montreal over-thetop flavour,” says Nassif. “Our stuff is very tasty, there’s a lot of flavour, and it’s all very playful.”

The deli’s erstwhile blini cake — blini pancakes stacked 70 layers tall with smoked white fish, smoked salmon, eggs, herbs, bacon, salmon roe, pickles, pickled shallots, red onion, chives, fennel and a slather of sour cream spilling over its many edges — epitomizes Nassif’s high-end meets off-the-wall aesthetic. Informed by his Lebanese-Jewish heritage, the culinary consultant’s menu is also peppered with Middle Eastern influences, with dishes such as beet fattoush and slow-roasted lamb merguez.

“It’s all stuff that your Jewish grandmother would make for Friday dinners, Sunday lunches,” says Nassif. “It’s all very close to home.”

Before his cousin, Mile End Deli’s owner Noah Bernamoff, coaxed him to uproot to New York and oversee food operations one year ago, Nassif held the reins at Montreal’s SuWu, and cut his teeth at a number of Montreal culinary spots, including Laurie Raphaël, Lucille’s and Greasy Spoon. He has also worked under chefs Joe Mercury,

David McMillan and Frédéric Morin of Joe Beef among others, and even traveled to Beirut to help open several restaurants.

A graduate of St-Pius X Culinary Institute in Montreal’s East End, Nassif has worked the line since age 16, though his culinary acumen was bred long before, within a family of accomplished home cooks across many generations.

“My mom and my dad, my grandparents are all really great cooks and everything revolved around food in my family,” recalls Nassif. “When I was five or six, I watched my mother make eggs one day and all the steps registered in my head, and since then, I was always cooking.”

Elevating Jewish cuisine above its humdrum reputation is a full-time job, one Nassif is happy to fulfill for as long as he can, though the dearth of innovative Middle Eastern eateries akin to what Mile End Deli is to Jewish food beckons.

One such restaurant in NYC is the Holy Grail. So is a cookbook.

“There’s no leading authority on Lebanese food,” says Nassif. “You have all these Israeli cooks, and the Italians, French, but who could I get a Lebanese cookbook from? There’s no real cool Lebanese food cookbook, so that, I really want to do. And fast because someone soon is going to come up with something.” ×

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MUST TRY

A taste from abroad Can't get away? Bring a little flavour from India to your kitchen instead.

POTATO, CAULIFLOWER AND PEA BHAJI SERVES 4 TO 6 Can be made a day ahead.

2 tbsp ghee (clarified butter)

1 large onion, sliced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tbsp sweet paprika

2 tsp garam masala powder

2 tsp ground cumin

6 cardamom pods, bruised

4 cloves

8 curry leaves 1/3 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1/2 cup water 400 ml can coconut milk

2 tsp salt

3 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 small cauliflower, chopped

1 cup frozen peas 1. Lightly brown the onion and garlic in ghee in a large pan.

2. Add all the spices —except the curry leaves — and cook a few

minutes, stirring, until fragrant.

3. Add the curry leaves, shredded coconut, water, coconut milk, salt and potatoes. Simmer until the potatoes are partially cooked, about 10 minutes.

4. Add the cauliflower and simmer until just tender, about 10 minutes.

5. Add the peas and simmer until they are heated through.

MATCH: Serve with a Goose Island IPA or a the Soma Vineyards Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon (see page 46). ×

SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 17

FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC

NEAT LITTLE PACKAGE AFTER A LONG SUMMER OF GRILLING, and lots of heavy

proteins, it’s a refreshing change to make a light fish dish that you can just throw in the oven and forget about. Cooking fish is notoriously unforgiving, though, so it’s nice to have some tricks that make this a little bit easier.

The first time I learned about cooking fish (or anything for that matter) in parchment paper, I was in awe. Who knew you could wrap something in paper and get such a delicately cooked dish at the end. I was also shocked that you could throw parchment paper in the oven without it burning (warning, don’t try this with wax paper — something altogether different).

The paper creates a self-contained steam oven, so you simply put something as delicate as fish in the oven, and don’t need to worry about drying it out. This is particularly great since lean fish can easily be overcooked.

I love using parchment paper since the flavours are contained and concentrated in each packet. The fish becomes infused with the ingredients, which allows you to impart lots of flavour without having to marinate the fish beforehand. I really like using this method when I have people coming over for dinner. Each person gets their own package, and as they cut it open (perfectly acceptable presentation method), a puff of steam escapes and creates a dramatic flair for the guest.

I love eating fish, and in fact I wish I cooked it more than I do; having this cooking method in my repertoire allows me to create perfect meals without having to worry about overcooking. It’s really easy to change up the flavours (white wine and thyme, pesto, etc.), so don’t be afraid to experiment.

It’s in the bag.

18 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

HALIBUT EN PAPILLOTE

4

1

1/4

2

4

4

4

1

halibut pieces, 200 g each Salt and pepper, to taste cup cherry tomatoes, halved cup black olives, chopped cloves garlic, finely diced pieces of parchment paper (12x12”) tbsp lemon juice tbsp olive oil fennel bulb, thinly sliced

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Place large baking sheet in oven to heat. Season

both sides of the halibut with salt and pepper. In a bowl, mix together tomatoes, olives and garlic.

3. Place each piece of halibut in the centre of an individual slice of parchment paper. Add lemon and olive oil to each package. Cover fish with fennel and tomato mixture evenly.

4. Pick up the two sides of the parchment paper that run along the long side of each fish piece and press together — creating a tent. Fold down several times, as length allows. Next take the open sides, fold over twice and tuck under the fish (weight will keep this pressed down).

5. Place fish on heated baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until fish is firm.

MATCH: Serve with basmati rice and a light Viognier. ×

LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO

Drinking the vinegar No matter how lovely the fall season might be, it’s still hard to let go of those fresh summer flavours. Goodbye, peaches. Goodbye, melons. Berries, I think I’ll miss you most of all.

Many of us find some comfort in imported fruit through the winter, even though we’re quick to complain that the flavours just aren’t as robust. That’s part of the reason that, when it comes to drinks, a lot of crafty bartenders have decided to just say no to off-season fruit. Instead of muddling third-rate, pale raspberries into their drinks, cocktail-lovers are reaching for “shrubs” — an ancient method for preserving seasonal fruit that involves dissolving sugar and fruit into vinegar.

So far, nothing strange about that, since vinegar is a common preservative agent. But, unlike with pickles (where we discard the brine), the vinegar is an integral part of the shrub. In fact, sometimes it’s called “drinking vinegar.” And it’s used — vinegar and all — as a cocktail ingredient, by bartenders who’ve discovered that the sharp and sour properties of a shrub are actually an asset. Used sparingly, of course.

This delicate art has been mastered by Neila MacIntyre, bar manager at Calgary’s Ox and Angela.

“If you make a good, balanced shrub, you don’t need to use much,” says MacIntrye. “Usually less than an ounce. But it’s a potent combination of savoury tanginess and sweet fruit flavour which can balance your cocktail almost immediately with almost any spirit.”

That’s because vinegar-based shrubs provide the acidity that most cocktails need to achieve balance but, as an added bonus, tend to have a more complex depth of flavour than, say, sour mix.

And, while few bartenders would be likely to eliminate citrus from their cocktail programs, shrubs can be a useful stop-gap for times when the price of citrus soars. Plus, unlike squeezing citrus every day or fresh for every drink, shrub-making is a simple process that you do once, when the fruit is in season. “You can make it in large batches, bottle some and, if you want, you can even freeze some,” says MacIntyre, “The great thing is that I find it tastes exactly the same as the day I made it.”

Berries are, by far, the most popular raw ingredient used in shrubs, but bartenders are playing with everything from bananas to fennel and tomatoes to jackfruit as the trend continues to build. That’s next-level stuff, though. To get our feet wet,

× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes

MacIntyre provided a starter recipe for a simple strawberry/ sage shrub, which she came up with in honour of her favourite flavour at her local artisanal ice cream parlour.

STRAWBERRY SAGE SHRUB

1 5 1 1

cup fresh strawberries, puréed sage sprigs cup sugar cup apple cider vinegar

Bring all ingredients — except vinegar — to a quick boil, then turn down heat to low and simmer, stirring until all sugar is dissolved and berries liquefied. Let cool. Add vinegar; finestrain and refrigerate.

TROUBLE IN TROMBA

2 1 1/2 1 1

oz Tromba Blanco oz fresh lime juice oz Strawberry Sage Shrub oz simple syrup egg white

Shake well in ice-filled cocktail shaker. Fine-strain into rocks glass. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 19

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FLOR DE SAL TO COME

BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL

How can you tell if a wine is too young?

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

Drum roll please ... Check its birth certificate? I’m sort of not kidding. Just look at the label and check the vintage year (which is the date the grapes were harvested). When a wine was born gives you your first clue if, and that’s a big if, you can appreciate its pleasures.

A run-of-the-mill table wine is built to enjoy right out of the bottle with most consumed within 48 hours of purchase, so if you’re spending under $25, just get your drink on. If we’re talking a wine with some pedigree, then how old it is will speak volumes as to its eventual consumability.

You always pay more for complexity and longevity, so use that as your guide. Wines with big bones, and big prices, need time to mature, so if you have a bottle from a recent year burning a hole in your cellar you should think about decanting it.

Decanting will introduce oxidizing air to every drop of the wine, artificially aging the juice and taming its youthful exuberance.

If you’ve found your lips close to a glass of something obviously unbalanced, muted in flavour and overpowered by tannin (when it comes to reds), you have a wine way too young to drink.

I just bought an Italian wine designated DOP. What happened to DOC and DOCG?

I feel your pain. It’s just what the wine world needs: another acronym. Though this time around the inspiration hasn’t come from wine industry bureaucrats, it’s a mandate of the European Union in an attempt to standardize the labeling of locally produced agricultural products (not just wine) deemed unique to their geographic location, made using traditional methods and representing the highest quality in their category.

× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me

In 2011, the EU put into play the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) accreditation, which are basically three letters that cover what I just mentioned in the last paragraph.

Now here’s where things get fun. Since Italians speak Italian, their version of PDO became DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta). Just to add a few more letters to the conversation, the French refer to it as AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée).

No matter how the letters are shuffled, the EU’s PDO was designed to supersede the current wine classifications of each of its membership. While no one loves regulation better than Italy, changing their multi-tiered system for a singular one didn’t sit well with many wineries, especially those that call areas with the coveted DOCG recognition home.

Prior to the EU’s update, the hierarchy of Italian winemaking had two levels, DOC (Denominazione Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita).

Without getting into too many gory (i.e. boring) details, both recognized the originality of certain areas, set up rules for winemakers to abide by and, in the case of DOCG, added a liquid review to ensure the wines were up to snuff.

There are 329 DOCs, but only 74 DOCGs. Imagine you’re a winery in a DOCG and some EU body tells you to change your designation to DOP and lump yourself into one big bucket with all the other DOCGs and DOCs. In the collective mind of the DOCGers, it was like winning an Oscar but having to tell everyone it’s a Golden Globe.

Since all of Europe is on stream with DOP (and presumably understands it) there is, from a marketing standpoint, some cachet for wineries to jump ship and assimilate. Most are dragging their feet, waiting to see what happens in 2020 when the EU revisits mandatory adoption. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 21

FOLK IN MODERN TIMES

by Lisa Hoekstra

EVERY FAMILY HAS THEIR go-to rem-

edies for a specific ailment (or ailments) that you won’t necessarily find at the pharmacy or be prescribed by the doctor. These “folk remedies” are all-natural treatments that involve average, everyday food items — like gargling hot salt water to help with sore throats or more exotic food stuffs like taking Echinacea when you feel a cold coming on. Many of these remedies have been around for centuries, predating the medieval era of leeches and bloodletting! Traditional cures laid the foundation for the non-conventional, natural and homeopathic medicine practices that spring up from time to time when you Google the best way to stop a coughing fit (or other types of common autumn problems – dry skin, stress, tiredness, etc.) “‘Natural’ has always been very poorly defined,” says Michael Castleman, author of The New Healing Herbs (Rodale). “As typically used, it means non-pharmaceutical, treatments that come from nature, not laboratories. Homeopathic remedies are usually micro-doses of natural substances: plant, animal or mineral materials.” So while both streams of thought involve natural substances, there is a minute difference between natural and homeopathic remedies.

“Homeopathy … is the treatment according to the ‘like cures like’ principle,” explains Professor Edzard Ernst, an aca-

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demic physician and researcher who specializes in complementary and alternative medicine. He was the first in the world to teach complementary medicine.

I was curious what other folk remedies beside gargling salt water were out there, so I brushed off my researching cap and took to the Internet to find some of the popular folk remedies out there.

A note of caution before you continue reading: any form of non-medical treatment should be used as a complement to modern medicine, not a replacement.

Before using homeopathic remedies (or if they’re not working), Castleman recommends “consulting a homeopath.”

You should always take natural treatments with a metaphorical grain of salt.

“Even where the evidence is relatively positive, it is still not convincing,” says Professor Ernst. “The effects are usually small and the science supporting them is weak.”

“Read up on them first,” advises Castleman. “For anything herbal, I’d plug [my book] The New Healing Herbs. Most people use Google. Trouble is, much of the information on the Internet is questionable, so you have to be careful.”

Consult your healthcare professional or a qualified homeopath before ingesting anything unfamiliar. While there aren’t a lot of risks involved with taking all-natural folk remedies, there are still risks.

“No effective therapy is without risks,” states Professor Ernst. “In alternative medicine, the risks are not well investigated. They depend on the exact nature of the treatment.”

“As far as I know, there’s never been a documented case of serious harm from homeopathic remedies,” mentions Castleman. “As for other natural/herbal medicines, of course they can cause harm if used foolishly. Drink too much coffee and you become irritable and jittery, and can’t sleep. People should be informed consumers and research what they’re interested in instead of trusting the advice of friends.”

There, now that the necessary cautions are over, time to learn about the folk remedies that you never knew you probably have in your pantry.

CHAMOMILE

People have been touting the positive effects of chamomile for years. But there’s good reason. “Chamomile is great for nerves,” says Castleman. “Peter Rabbit’s mother gave him chamomile tea after Mr McGregor chased him out of the garden.” It’s been used since ancient times for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties, treating everything from asthma and fevers, to inflammations and skin diseases. Think of it as a mild tranquilizer. It’s a great sleeping aid, if you’re too stressed or anxious to get to dream land.

COFFEE/CAFFEINE

“The most widely used [natural remedy] in the US is caffeine, for physical stimulation,” says Castleman. “That’s why the country wakes up with coffee or tea.

That’s why there’s a Starbucks on every corner. Back in the 1980s, I used to give talks about herbal medicine to groups of doctors. I’d ask ‘How many of you feel skeptical of herbal medicine?’ Most hands in the room went up. Then I’d ask, ‘How many of you had a cup of coffee this morning?’ Most hands went up, and I’d say, ‘I guess you believe in herbal medicine.’”

It’s amazing to think that this morning beverage is considered a natural remedy. I drink at least two cups a day (sometimes more). Apparently it has more health benefits than just that morning energy bump – it also boosts the metabolism, increases adrenaline levels and contains vitamins B2, B5, B3, Manganese, Magnesium and Potassium (among others).

GARLIC

This little cooking ingredient is good for more than just tomato sauces and warding off vampires. Garlic has anti-microbial properties that fight bacteria in the mouth — gargling the recipe below twice daily for three days will remove bad breath, fight pain-causing bacteria and soothe inflamed tissues. But wait, there’s more: use “garlic for high cholesterol,” says Professor Ernst.

SOLUTION FOR BAD BREATH Press 6 garlic cloves into a glass of warm (not hot) water.

GINGER

I think it was my mother who gave me ginger ale when I had an upset stomach (when I was younger anyway … now I get it for myself ). Mix it with cranberry juice (another good nausea fighter) and you’ve got a delicious cure for any and all butterflies in your stomach. Use “ginger for motion sickness and morning sickness of pregnancy,” suggests Castleman.

Eating when your stomach is causing a ruckus isn’t really number one on the todo list, so try frozen ginger chips instead.

FROZEN GINGER CHIPS Steep fresh ginger in hot water (so the water is infused with the ginger juice). Strain and let cool. Pour into ice cube trays and freeze. When your stomach starts doing backflips, suck on an ice cube.

HONEY AND LEMON

Adding a little bit of honey and lemon to your tea — or even making yourself the honey and lemon tincture below — can stave off any autumn cold that comes your way. Lemon is rich in vitamin C, which, as we all know, helps fight colds.

Honey, according to the World Health Organization (WHO) is a demulcent, which means it’s supposed to sooth the mucous membranes as well as relieve minor pain and inflammation. This powerful combo can shorten your cold’s duration and severity. At the very least, it’ll suppress your cough so that you can get a good night’s sleep.

LEMON AND HONEY TINCTURE Cut a lemon in half. Squeeze juice from one half into a cup. Drop the empty shell in with the juice. Add boiling water and 1 tsp of raw honey. Breathe in the steam/ vapours to open the sinuses. Then sip to fight the cold symptoms.

One cup 2 or 3 times a day will keep your immune system bumping, and solve the inevitable sore throat and annoying cough.

LIQUORICE

Liquorice isn’t everyone’s favourite flavour. I personally love it — I grew up on the salty black liquorice candies popular in the Netherlands, so just writing about it makes my mouth water. What I didn’t know growing up is that liquorice has some great health benefits.

Sip liquorice tea for sore throat, suggests Castleman. The root of the liquorice plant is where all the benefits live. Drinking the tea will also help with an upset stomach or to calm nerves.

Though it’s worth noting that there isn’t a lot of scientific evidence to explain why … perhaps it’s just the placebo effect. I don’t mind — liquorice is delicious.

MILK THISTLE

This European thistle with a single purple flower was brought to North America, where its seeds are made into milk. WebMD states that milk thistle is a natural treatment for liver problems like cirrhosis, jaundice, hepatitis and gallbladder disorders, however clinical trials and studies have been inconclusive. Milk thistle contains silymarin, an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, which can help the liver detox, lower cholesterol and, when used topically, help keep skin looking healthy and young.

MINT

Castleman suggests mint “to soothe the stomach (hence our after-dinner mint candies).” Peppermint, spearmint, wild mint — there are a wide variety of mint species. Whatever the species, mint was used as a medicinal herb to treat stomach aches and chest pains. Peppermint, specifically, kills bacteria that causes bloating and relaxes gastrointestinal muscles.

Brew it into a tea or keep a bag of candy in your bag for “just in case.”

TURMERIC

“It’s the Indian root that gives curry blends their yellow colour,” says Castleman. “Turmeric is very high in antioxidant nutrients. I used to take an antioxidant vitamin supplement. Now I take turmeric, also called churchmen. In addition to its nutrients, turmeric is also a mild anti-inflammatory (a Cox-2 inhibitor). I’m 66. As people age, the aches and pains increase, so turmeric helps that, too.”

Whatever your family remedy, remember that natural “cures” help with symptoms, not the underlying causes.

Always consult a medical professional for chronic issues — I really can’t repeat this enough! — especially if you’re already taking medication. Natural remedies and modern medicine can interact and create worse symptoms. Consulting a pharmacist, physician or homeopath will make sure you’re getting the best results and living a healthy lifestyle. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 23

by Sean Wood

MEANING OF TERROIR

Earlier this summer, 12 Nova Scotia wineries released their Appellation Tidal Bay vintage 2015 wines. This marks the sixth year of this increasingly successful, distinctly Nova Scotian wine.

Together with the now iconic Nova 7 and internationally recognized traditional method sparkling wines, Tidal Bay has become emblematic of the distinctive vibrant style produced by Nova Scotia’s unique cool-climate terroir.

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The original concept for what became Tidal Bay was the brainchild of well-known and highly respected wine-industry professional Peter Gamble. After more than a decade in winemaking and winery management, Gamble was appointed founding Director of the Vintners Quality Alliance. In that role, he worked with winemakers in Ontario and British Columbia to define standards for appellation wines, travelling widely and spearheading efforts to gain international recognition for Canada as a high-quality wine producer.

Subsequently, Gamble has spent a good deal of time in Nova Scotia, first as lead consultant to Benjamin Bridge, playing a major role in that winery’s successful development of world-class traditional method sparkling wines. He continues to work closely with Benjamin Bridge as well as with emerging star Lightfoot & Wolfville. Gamble fervently believes in the unique qualities of Nova Scotia and sees great potential for the region.

Gamble conceived the appellation idea in September 2009 and subsequently presented the concept to the board of the Winery Association of Nova Scotia later that same year. He followed this up with a formal proposal to the board in spring 2010, obtaining general agreement to proceed. The model was based on well-established European appellations developed to highlight specific styles of wines, such as Châteauneuf-duPape, Vinho Verde, Soave and Chianti, where establishing formal appellations served both to protect and promote these high-quality regional wines.

While other regions have pulled off appellations very successfully, as Gamble says, “it’s not a given.” Doing so requires a region that presents a really strong terroir in the wines produced there, especially when, as in these examples, a broad number of grape varieties are permitted in the blend. “Nova Scotia,” he says, “is blessed with this … there’s a really piercing, really defined sense of terroir in the wines. And to my mind, this terroir is as distinctive as in any wine region on the globe, with the possible exception of northern Germany.”

The development of the Tidal Bay appellation involved the creation of strict, new grape-growing and winemaking standards on a par with the world’s toughest, and the creation of an independent tasting panel to assess all wines wishing to use the designation.

left: The sun rising over Gaspereau Vineyards is quite a sight right: Simon Rafuse became Blomidon Estate's Winemaker in 2009

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below: Jean-Benoit Deslauriers, winemaker at Benjamin Bridge; right: Winemaker Josh Horton from Lightfoot & Wolfville Winery; far right: Peter Gamble was brought on to design the Tidal Bay program

Phase two of the implementation plan called for effectively marketing the appelation in a manner that consumers could readily understand. The Tidal Bay wine style was defined as “Fresh, crisp, still white wine with bright signature Nova Scotia aromatic component.”

As Gamble further noted: “Nova Scotia’s very cool-climate, maritime terroir is unrivalled in the world for making this type of wine.”

The final step was to settle on a standard presentation that would clearly identify these wines for wine buyers. The agreed-upon format was a clear-coloured, Bordeaux-shaped bottle with the words “Tidal Bay” clearly displayed. Consumers could therefore be confident that the wine they were purchasing was authentic, had met stringent production standards and had been certified by a qualified independent tasting panel.

Nova Scotians have enthusiastically embraced these premium bottlings. According to the Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation, five years ago, only five wineries were producing Tidal Bay wines. That year, the NSLC sold some 500 cases. Over the last 12 months, 12 wineries have produced Tidal Bay wines. This year, the NSLC has sold more than 10,000 cases. Additional quantities have been sold by the wineries themselves, both at winery stores and at farmers’ markets around Nova Scotia. These wines are gradually finding their way to stores in other provinces as well. On a recent trip to Vancouver, I saw a bottle of Tidal Bay along with other premium white wines, in the chilled wine section of Liberty Wine Merchants. With their moderate alcohol levels and lighter, food-friendly style, these signature wines should have popular appeal across the country and beyond.

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90 PLANTERS RIDGE TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($20.99) This is a hand-harvested blend of l’Acadie Blanc, Frontenac Gris, Seyval Blanc, Muscat and Vidal. The wine exudes exotic floral aromatics with scents of stone fruit, citrus, a light whiff of green herb and grapey muscat. A crisp attack in the mouth presents sharply focused green apple and citrus flavours supported by signature zesty acidity and stony mineral, finishing with a food-friendly, drying grip.

89 ANNAPOLIS HIGHLAND VINEYARDS TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval and New York Muscat make up the blend here. Aromatics combine green and yellow fruit with grassy herbal and mineral notes. Rounded fruit flavours offer apple, pear and the merest hint of crisp stone fruit supported by characteristic lively acidity and mineral on the well-balanced finish.

91 MERCATOR VINEYARDS TIDAL BAY 2015, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY ($24.99) Made from a proprietary estate-grown blend of Seyval, l’Acadie and Petite Milo, this one presents elegant rose petal and subtle orchard fruit scents with a discernable ripe peach perfume.

Green apple and citrus flavours take centre stage with prickly, crisp acidity, mineral grip and a lick of creaminess on the palate.

A refined, understated style, finishing relatively dry.

90 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) Pronounced floral scent with ripe yellow fruit. Hints of exotic tropical fruit and a whiff of honey on the nose shift to green apple and stone fruit on the generously flavoured, lightly creamy palate. Rounds out with clean, refreshing acidity, drying mineral and a light touch of balancing sweetness.

89 BLOMIDON ESTATE WINERY TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) Fresh green orchard fruit scents are accented with floral and piquant green herbal notes. Bright green fruit flavours play through on the palate, initially showing green apple then citrus with crisp acidity, firm mineral and a trace of stone fruit on the finish.

88 SAINTE-FAMILLE WINES TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) The estate-grown blend is Geisenheim 318 and Siegfried, showing floral and very distinctive green herbal, smoky overtones.

Crisp white peach, apricot with a touch of green apple and lime kick in on the palate, backed by classic NS mineral and lively acidity, with a gentle touch of residual sweetness on the finish.

89 AVONDALE SKY THE RIVERS OF AVONDALE VINEYARD TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($20) Intensely aromatic, showing grapefruit, lychee, passion fruit, kiwi fruit and a light whiff of green herb. Stone fruit and pear flavours are backed by zesty acidity, mineral and a delicate touch of sweetness on the finish.

89 GASPEREAU VINEYARDS TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99) Seyval, Vidal, Chardonnay and Muscat all go into this exuberant wine. Floral, spicy and distinctively smoky Muscat on

the nose lead the way for lively grapefruit, green apple and lychee flavours against a backdrop of zingy acidity and brisk mineral in the mouth. Judiciously balanced by a light touch of sweetness on the finish.

88 JOST VINEYARDS TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) Aromatic green fruit, minty herb and a hint of lychee on the nose, with green apple and stone fruit in the mouth. Finishes with a well-modulated but lively acidity and mineral grip, leaving an agreeable prickly sensation on the palate.

89 BENJAMIN BRIDGE TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99) Opens with a subtle though slightly shy floral perfume, mineral and green fruit in the background. Lively green fruit exhibits a marked lime flavour backed by characteristic vibrant acidity and firm mineral with hints of crisp peach and apricot on the finish.

90 LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99) Opening floral and yellow fruit scents are accented with a trace of green herb. Delicate citrus and stone fruit flavours are supported by the appellation’s signature chalky mineral, bright acidity with softening creaminess and a judicious touch of residual sweetness on the deftly balanced finish.

88 LUCKETT VINEYARDS TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99) Made from a proprietary blend of L’Acadie, Ortega, Osceola Muscat and Traminette, this one evokes honeysuckle and subtle tree fruit scents with lightly honeyed yellow pear and ripe apricot flavours in the mouth. Characteristic refreshing acidity, firm mineral and a touch of residual sweetness round out the finish. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 27

BIG.

by Rick VanSickle

IT MEANS A LOT OF DIFFERENT THINGS TO A LOT OF DIFFERENT PEOPLE. SOME SWEAR BY IT, OTHERS LOATHE IT. SO, IT BEGS THAT AGE-OLD QUESTION: IS BIGGER REALLY BETTER?

We can ask it in a different way, if you like, just to be perfectly clear here. Are you Burgundy or Bordeaux? BC or Ontario? New Zealand or Australia? California or Oregon?

It’s the dilemma people face every time they buy a bottle of red wine: do they prefer full-bodied wines, brimming with ripe fruit, higher alcohol and grippy tannins, or lighter-bodied reds with finesse and flair that are subtler and supple? Chances are you’re either in one camp or the other; there is very little in between.

All the cool kids, guided by today’s youngest and most rigid sommeliers, have been brow-beaten into thinking that anything with a little heft in the glass is for old white guys who prefer brawn over brains, power over grace and well, just don’t understand the subtle nuances of fine wine.

Big wines, described at eRobertParker.com as “large-framed, full-bodied … with an intense and concentrated feel on the palate,” hit their apex in the early 2000s, led by the aforementioned Big Wine Guru himself, Robert Parker, but have slowly devolved to where they are today - merely a swearword never again to be uttered in the company of today’s so-called wine aficionados.

But get outside of that insulated circle of vino glitteratis and self-professed tastemakers and there is a whole category of wine lover who likes it big, real big, and they will break down your door to get it. Big is back, baby, and those looking for it are thirstier than ever.

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It’s perhaps misleading to say that big is back; the category really never went away, it just percolated merrily along without much attention from modern enthusiasts. Just look at prices for top Napa and Bordeaux wines — they are through the roof. Top Aussie Shiraz and red blends, same thing. Chile, Argentina, Italy, Spain and Portugal … all churning out rich, concentrated red wines with plenty of fans around the globe.

Closer to home in Niagara, where Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling have been anointed the goto varieties (more to do with the climate than trends), a recalculation is taking place. Big red wines are emerging from the shadows — and wine lovers are lapping them up.

“I hated Niagara reds,” well-rounded Niagara winemaker Andrzej Lipinski tells Quench. “They weren’t pleasant to drink, too much green pepper. Sorry, they just weren’t good.”

For Lipinski, who arrived in St. Catharines in 1989 from Poland without being able to speak a word of English, the pursuit of big red wines has been a 25-year quest. He’s finally hit pay dirt with his new winery, Big Head Wines (what else, right?).

With a background in mechanics and light construction, Lipinski stumbled into the wine industry. Working for John Howard (now owner of Megalomaniac winery) at his house in Vineland, Lipinski was offered more work at Vineland Estate when Howard bought the winery in 1992 (and subsequently his controlling

Award-winning winemaker from Creekside, Rob Powers

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93 RENNIE VINEYARDS SUPER G 2013 ($100)

92 13TH STREET MERITAGE RESERVE 2012 ($35)

100% appassimento-style, it has a big, rich, opulent nose of cassis, sweet cedar and spice, graphite, blackberries and Cuban cigar leaf. This is all about concentration of flavours on the palate with anise, blackberries, plums and cherries to go with a full spectrum of spices, chocolate, liquorice and a mouthful of tannins that are grippy and need time to resolve.

This meritage, a third each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, is unabashedly bold on the nose with concentrated blackcurrants, blackberry and cherry/kirsch notes followed by lavish barrel spice and violets that is altogether (to coin a phrase from the The Who) Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy. This is a mouth-filling wine that’s highly extracted on the palate with a mass of tannins, thick, layered fruits and defining spice notes.

92 COLANERI CORAGGIOSO AMAROSO 2012 ($50) Made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon appassimento grapes. It has a sweet, ripe barrage of fruit on the nose including cassis, cherries, figs and plums with bramble, cigar leaf, nutmeg, clove, graphite and allspice. It’s ripe, meaty and spice-laden on the palate with glowing, vibrant dark fruits, kirsch, chocolate and sweet tannins.

93 COLANERI INSIEME 2012 ($35)

93 CREEKSIDE UNBROKEN PRESS SYRAH 2012 ($43) The “Un” in the Unbroken means no Viognier added. The nose shows blackcurrants, smoke, sweet cedar, grilled meats, kirsch, pepper and a lifted floral note. It’s weighty and bold on the palate with integrated fruit, bramble and rousing spices to go with firm, overt tannins.

A blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Cabernet Franc, 14% Syrah and 14% Merlot with 100% of the fruit kiln-dried. It has a rich and fulsome nose of black cherry, raspberry, plum, blueberry, ripe blackberry, vanilla and full range of barrel spices. It’s rich, layered and textured in the mouth with melt-in-your-mouth tannins to go with a range of red and dark fruits.

93 SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS POETICA RED 2012 ($55)

91 BIG HEAD BIGGER RED 2013 ($38)

93 TRIUS SHOWCASE RED SHALE CABERNET FRANC CLARK FARM VINEYARD 2012 ($45)

The blend is 45% Merlot, 22.5% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon (both full appassimento) and 10% Cabernet Franc. The nose shows rich black cherry, kirsch, cassis and an array of attractive oak spices. On the palate, it’s rich, spicy and smoky with sweet tannins, plums, concentrated cherry, currants and liquorice.

Such a wonderful and expressive nose of rich, meaty blackberry, cherry and a complex array of oak spices.

This has structure and grip with lovely red and dark fruits that build on the palate and meld with an array of spices and firm tannins.

An enthralling Cab Franc with a deep, rich nose of fragrant red fruits, raspberry bush, earth, light spice and a lifted floral-herbal note. It shows succulent red fruits on the palate, chewy tannins, roasted Espresso beans, earthy-savoury notes and integrated spice with bits of anise and liquorice.

93 FOREIGN AFFAIR TEMPTRESS 2012 ($45)

94 STRATUS RED 2012 ($44)

It’s a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot with 35% of the grapes dried. The nose is expressive with notes of sweet cigar box, spice box, concentrated blackberry, currants, blueberry and sweet herbs that just don’t quit. Such power on the palate with super-charged blackcurrants, anise, blueberry pie, cocoa, liquorice and spice box all propped up by a wall of firm, ripe tannins.

This is a blend of 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec, and 3% Tannat. The nose shows dense and highly aromatic blackcurrants, blackberries, plums, cassis and then oak spices, clove-cinnamon notes and charred vanilla toast.

It is so lush, so persistent on the palate, yet it is defined by the richness and purity of the dark layered fruit that is bolstered by lavish spice, grippy tannins and a finessed feel through a long, velvety finish.

93 FIELDING ESTATE CHOSEN FEW 2012 ($60)

93 CHATEAU DES CHARMES EQUULEUS 2012, NIAGARA ($40)

The 2012 version is a blend of Cabernet Franc (38%), Syrah (37%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%). The nose shows layers of blackcurrants, black cherry-kirsch, baking spices, toasted oak nuances and cracked black pepper notes. It’s youthful on the palate but jampacked with blackcurrants, blackberries, lavish barrel oak spices and peppery spices.

The flagship red from this estate is always a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% of both Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The nose shows rich cherry, a touch of raspberry and then lavish cassis, concentrated blackcurrants and fine oak spices. It is smooth on the palate with generous fruit flavours, fine tannins and integrated spices that echo on the long finish.

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interest in 2004). When the famed Carriage House landmark on the property burned down in 1993, Lipinski was hired to restore it. Once that was complete, he began working as a cellar hand for Howard and winemaker Brian Schmidt.

Lipinski was a fast learner and made assistant winemaker two years later. By 2002, he was a full-fledged winemaker working at a long succession of jobs around Ontario: Legends, Fielding Estate, Megalomaniac, De Sousa and then Foreign Affair, where he first encountered the appassimento (dried grape) style of winemaking and at long-last a taste of the rich, bold style of wines that he enjoyed drinking.

His first wine crafted as a “virtual” winemaker was a kiln-dried Chenin Blanc made at Cornerstone. Big Head has since become a full-fledged winery and retail store operating out of leased space at the Hunter Farms facility in Niagara-on-the-Lake and is churning out a full portfolio of wines counterintuitive to the rest of the region.

Big Head has been packing the house every weekend since it opened last spring and selling wine at an alarming rate. Lipinski’s Big Head Biggest Red 2012 ($49) is a full-on appassimento blend of 30 percent each Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with 10 percent Petit Verdot.

Andrzej Lipinski takes his big wines seriously

A LIGHT WENT OFF, AND LIPINSKI PURSUED IT. A new winery in Ontario’s emerging South Coast wine region in Norfolk County, Burning Kiln, approached Lipinski to be their winemaker. They wanted to craft wines from dried grapes for further concentration and complexity. On one of Lipinski’s many treks to the winery, he spotted some abandoned tobacco kilns leftover from an industry that was all but dead in the region.

“I saw them, and said ‘wow,’ this is perfect,” he says today. He repurposed the kilns to provide an aerodynamic flow inside the sheds to dry the grapes naturally and concentrate the flavours.

All the wines at Burning Kiln, beginning in 2010, had at least some dried grapes in them.

By now, Lipinski was making traditional appassimento wines at Foreign Affair, and kiln-dried grape wines at Organized Crime, Burning Kiln and the new Colenari Winery in Niagara. But it wasn’t enough. Enter: Big Head Wines.

The scary part? 16.3 percent alcohol that barely registers on the palate. It sold out almost immediately.

“This was the most difficult red I’ve had to make,” says Lipinski, who now devotes his time to only his own winery and Colenari. “It was on the skins for 42 days and still had 40 grams of sugar left. Normally, I like to finish fermentation on the skins. We pressed and put it in Moldavian cigar barrels, and the fermentation took another 15 months to complete. We didn’t know what would happen. It never stopped, just slowly bubbled away. This was a fun wine to make. Many challenges, but worth it in the end.”

It rivals some of the biggest wines ever made in Niagara (at least from what I have tasted) and achieved that by being approachable, even drinkable, in its youth.

The red wine portfolio is pretty much entirely made from kiln-dried grapes in that bigger style that Lipinski is now famous for.

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“Younger people want full-bodied wines,” he says. “They want easy-drinking wines with no astringency, wines that are pleasant. And, yes, we are drying the grapes, but it’s an art, and I’m doing it naturally.”

Drying grapes is not the only way to get a big red wine bottled in Niagara, of course. Many established wineries have been making flagship reds in vintages deemed warm enough to warrant it from mostly Bordeaux varieties. Château des Charmes has its Equuleus (current vintage 2012); Stratus has the Stratus Red (made every vintage); Hidden Bench has La Brunante (current vintage 2011); Fielding Estate has Chosen Few (current vintage 2012); 13th Street has its Meritage Reserve (current 2012); Southbrook Vineyards has Poetica Red (current vintage 2012); and, of course, the Creekside Broken Press Syrah (current vintage 2012).

More and more wineries are adding a big red or two to their portfolios by using the appassimento method and finding a willing audience to indulge.

“You can’t craft big, rich, opulent wines consistently every year in Niagara,” says Graham Rennie, owner of Rennie Estate Winery on the Beamsville Bench. “It’s just not going to happen.”

So Rennie found a workaround to achieve his goal of making wines he personally likes to drink and serve his pals.

Len Crispino, owner of Foreign Affair Winery

Graham and Christine Rennie

“I like big red wines. If I was restricted to just Pinot, Gamay and Riesling, I wouldn’t have invested here,” says Rennie, who moved to Niagara from Oakville.

His virtual winery, selling wines through Malivoire, turned to the Vineland Research and Innovation Centre to help construct a grape-drying chamber that could replicate the Italian method of drying grapes to give his Bordeaux varieties the complexity, concentration and punch he wanted for his two (now three) biggest reds — the Scarpata (ripasso style), the Rennie G (appassimento) and the just released Super G (full-on appassimento).

“I have this vineyard and everything you’d want for a super grand cru site,” Rennie says. “But how do you take Bordeaux varietals and create a reliable big red wine experience?” For Rennie, it was perfectly clear — dry the grapes: “It just made so much sense.”

His Super G is a 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon ($100), finished at over 16 percent ABV, spends 86 days on drying racks and 21 months in new French oak. It is rich and opulent with sweet spices, graphite and gobs of fruit that shows aging potential of 10, maybe 20 years.

“I have the ability to make what I want, what I like to drink. I do it for my pleasure,” Rennie says.

But the question remains: Is bigger better? It’s a question as old as time. × 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

GARAGISTE

by Tim Pawsey

The WISE Hall in Vancouver is typical of many community halls that once dotted the Canadian landscape in the early part of the 20th century. With few frills but a decent dance floor, stage, modest kitchen (plus lounge and billiards room below), it harks back to a quite different era in the city’s history.

When the former Methodist church became the Welsh, Irish, Scottish & English Club (in 1963), it was very much a reflection of the Eurocentric times. Situated on Vancouver’s once but no longer Bohemian east-side, it lives on. Folksy and gently edgy, a favoured haunt of aspiring indie bands, it has also witnessed the likes of such luminaries as Veda Hille, Art Bergmann and Neko Case.

All of which made the WISE the perfect venue for the 2016 Vancouver edition of the remarkable Garagiste: The Small Guys Wine Festival. On an unseasonably warm Sunday afternoon, this past April, a score of the Okanagan’s lesser-knowns packed in, as well as one equally under the radar winery from Vancouver Island.

However, this was not some rag-tag group of winemaker wannabees. Far from it, in fact. As the 200 people or so in attendance discovered, the calibre of ‘garagiste’ wines in BC is more than just passable — hence the considerable following.

When festival founders Jennifer Schell and Terry Meyer Stone came up with the idea of a showcase specifically for smaller players they turned to Bordeaux for inspiration. The name alludes to a small group of winemakers who — frustrated of being hampered by DOC regulations — took their winemaking ‘underground,’ often as not in their own garage. Hence the name now widely known.

The first Garagiste event took place in 2014, at Meyer Family Vineyards in Okanagan Falls. There’s a family connection, as owner Jak Meyer is Terry Meyer Stone’s brother. Subsequent tastings took place in Kelowna and Vancouver, with the fall 2016 Okanagan event planned for the parking lot at Canadian Tire, Penticton. Even though that first festival happened only a couple of years ago, the international grapevine has already been doing its job: last summer, the UK’s influential Financial Times named Garagiste North among five of the best wine festivals held around the world.

BLACK MARKET'S ROB HAMMERSLEY

Terry Meyer Stone, who co-owns Anarchist Mountain Vineyard, says the idea came out of a conversation she had with Food and Wine Trails Magazine publisher Jennifer Schell, about the challenges smaller wineries face in getting the word (and the wine) out.

Most ‘garagistes’ wear more than one hat, balancing their passion for wine with a day job — which, often as not, also involves wine. Terry is the DTC and wine club manager at Tinhorn Creek Winery, and her husband Andrew manages Constellation’s Sunrock Vineyard (and worked previously for Meyer and Liquidity.)

“The little guys often do have tasting rooms,” she says, “although they tend not to be included in tours, so we thought: ‘Why not gather everyone together in one spot and invite people to come to us?’”

She too feels that the WISE Hall made for the perfect Garagiste venue (“We don’t belong in a hotel ballroom.”), although this year’s overwhelming response means they’ve outgrown the location.

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ANARCHIST ELEVATION CHARDONNAY 2014 ($26) From old vine Dijon clone Chardonnay, planted by the original owner in the early 1980s. Citrus and pear notes on top followed by a palate of bright orchard fruit over well-managed French oak; creamy and textured, with a lingering close.

ANARCHIST WILDFIRE PINOT NOIR 2014 ($35) Upfront bright cherry and violet followed by a plush but well-balanced medium-bodied palate with red fruit and vanilla notes before a soft finish.

ANTHONY BUCHANAN PINOT BLANC 2015 ($20) Upfront hints of orchard fruits and some creamy notes, followed by pear and vanilla notes on a well-textured palate with a touch of well-managed oak, underpinned by crisp acidity.

ANTHONY BUCHANAN PINOT NOIR 2014 ($35) Buchanan got his start working at Blue Mountain and it shows in this textbook Pinot from Similkameen, with vibrant strawberry, cherry and a touch of spice supported by fine, well integrated tannins for an elegant mouthfeel.

BLACK MARKET COLLUSION 2015 ($30) Inaugural release of first Bordeaux-styled white blend (60% Sauvignon Blanc/ 40% Sémillon), with the Semillon aged in oak to bring added texture. Upfront tropical, citrus and creamy notes with a mouth-filling palate of citrus, grapefruit and a touch of vanilla, buoyed by lively acidity.

BLACK MARKET SYNDICATE 2013 ($40) Rob Hammersley’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (37%), Merlot (36%), Cabernet Franc (23%) and Petit Verdot (4%) yields cherry and plum notes up front, followed by a full-bodied palate of cassis, cherry and toasty vanilla with a touch of clove and other spices.

Fruit balanced by well-managed oak and approachable tannins before a long and plush finish.

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Terry and Andrew bought their vineyard in 2010. It had been planted by a previous owner, a retired miner, who planted a “suitcase” Dijon Chardonnay clone and blasted a hole in the rocks to make a reservoir. The site is halfway up the corkscrew road that climbs Anarchist Mountain, immediately east of Osoyoos, is positively breath-taking. “We bought it for the view,” she admits.

But the terroir with its different soils, cool mornings and late in the day sun added up to one “very cool micro-climate” — which motivated them to move beyond purely growing grapes for sale to make their own single vineyard wine.

The couple’s primary focus is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made by Meyer Family winemaker Chris Carson (“He’s so amazing with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir”), although recently they’ve added Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Currently they make about 250 cases a year, which may grow to 300 with the possibility of a red blend and a single variety Cab Franc.

Terry says they like their level of production and it’s unlikely the business will grow much more, although they might purchase grapes for a second tier but still focus on the single vineyard wines.

Above all, she says, “The garagistes’ common thread is a true passion for the wine,” and their willingness “to take a few chances.”

The end result at this festival is that it’s the principals who are pouring. “People want to talk to them and find out their stories,” she says. In the end, though, “You can’t be growing grapes and not make wine.”

ANTHONY BUCHANAN JOKES THAT HE GOT INTO WINE SERIOUSLY AT A YOUNG AGE. “It was something I

gravitated towards,” says Buchanan, who was running his own, successful hairdressing business when he went to his first public tasting in Victoria, BC. “I soon discovered that I enjoyed learning and talking about wine. By the age of 26, I was educating myself — and actually became the youngest member of the Opimian Society.”

When Buchanan immersed himself in WSET Level Two, and started to learn more about viticulture and winemaking, his interest was piqued, so much so that he decided it was time for a career change.

“At the time, I thought I’d become a sommelier,” says Buchanan. But he soon realized he wanted more.

He enrolled in Winemaking 101 at Okanagan College (the original program in the valley) and worked his first harvest at Blue Mountain.

“That confirmed I was on the right path,” he says and eventually enrolled in a two-year online course at Washington State University, before moving to the Okanagan in 2010 to take a job with the ill-fated Holman Lang group. Eventually, he worked with Bench 1775 and then with Wild Goose, before arriving at Desert Hills.

Along the way, he was introduced to Similkameen’s Eau Vivre Winery, which has landed two BC Lieutenant Governor Wine Awards for its Pinot Noir. With some of their grapes, he now makes Anthony Buchanan Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc — and poured them for the first time at this spring’s Garagiste North in Vancouver.

“Always make the wine you prefer to drink yourself,” he says.

“I’ve always gravitated towards Pinot Noir for its acidity and food friendly character,” says ANTHONY BUCHANAN Buchanan, who says he doesn’t cut corners, and knows the style of wine he wants to make. “My wife and I had always thought we might buy a small piece of property and make our own wine,” but this was the next best thing. “We plan to keep it small; make a make a max of 500 to 700 cases, with maybe two single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs and the Pinot Blanc,” says Buchanan.

When the Garagistes came along, the Buchanans were invited by another small winery to attend a meet and greet in Penticton. “It’s a real cool little society, where you can walk into a room and meet others who are in a similar situation to yourself and swap ideas. I don’t think you get that level of exchange on a larger scale. Plus, I’m still a bit of a rookie, so I never would have met so many key people had it not been for the garagistes.”

In the meantime, Buchanan is starting to sell their wine to a few restaurants in Vancouver and the Okanagan — although he’s anxious to make sure he can keep up with supply and demand until the next vintages are ready.

As to why people love the idea of the garagiste festival? It’s because the owner wears a whole bunch of different hats, says Buchanan, from vineyard manager to winemaker, marketer and more.

Black Market Wine Co.’s Rob Hammersley discovered wine through a friend at University of Manitoba, who serendipitously flunked engineering only to discover that U of M had a twoyear exchange program with UC Davis. He found his niche in oenology, and now lives in Napa.

“My whole approach to this market is like what I do for my “Once every couple of months he would hold a tasting, with a huge map of wine on the wall, explaining: ‘this wine comes from day job. The key part is to evaluate the risk that you’re taking.

Anyone can make wine — that’s the easy part. It’s the selling here and tastes like this because ... ’” From that moment, Hammersely (who’s studied extensive- that’s challenging. I want to make sure we have a slice of the marly) says he’s “been hooked on the sense of wine and place” — so ket before we invest in land and so on.”

Hammersley, too, chooses to make wines he enjoys drinking much so that he’s even visited Kenya’s only winery. “A pining for knowledge of everything about wine” eventually led to BC Wine but they’re also made with varieties he believes are “on the path Studio’s Mark Simpson, a winemaker (and brewmaster) who’s to being great.” He appreciates that the Okanagan is relatively been instrumental in helping numerous garagistes realize their unfettered by typical AOC regulations and is a “big fan” of blending, focusing on their ‘Syndicate’ Bordeaux blends red and white. dreams, with varying degrees of involvement.

“I find — especially with small lot winemaking — with the Hammersley and his partner Michelle Shewchuk operate in a very hands-on fashion. “I look on it as a bit of a twist on the ability to choose a certain style you’re better positioned to custom crush aspect. I source my own fruit, my own barrels, and achieve that balance.”

Hammersley is effusive about the opportunities offered by some of the equipment is mine.”

“I do as much of the work as I can — but under Mark’s guid- the Garagiste festivals. “It’s a fantastic venue for some of the ance: I use his expertise to guide my own process. Ultimately,” small guys like ourselves, who don’t get a whole lot of opportusays Hammersley, “it’s collaborative: They’re not his wines with nity to shine. ... It’s hard for a producer to stand out against big brands. But this is like having our own little universe.” my label, they’re our wines.”

While some garagistes are driven very much by emotion, No question, BC’s garagiste movement is here to stay — to Hammersley (a senior corporate finance professional who spe- our good fortune. More than that, though, the people behind it cialises in acquisitions) is more sanguine. He has a long term represent a new era in BC wine and the next generation of truly perspective for Black Market Wine Co. terroir-driven winemakers. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 35

FORTIFIED

by Gurvinder Bhatia

THINK OF PORTUGAL AND FORTIFIED WINE AND, for

most people, Port wines from the Douro Valley come to mind.

But just off Portugal’s coast lies an island bearing the name of the country’s “other” fortified wine, one possessing a deep, rich history and producing wines of incredible intrigue, diversity and versatility.

The Madeira Islands are a Portuguese archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean approximately 1,000 kilometres southwest of Lisbon and directly west of Morocco. The island of Madeira is the largest of the group, having been discovered in the early 15th century, with settlement commencing shortly thereafter.

From the beginning, Madeira’s roots were based in agriculture: wheat, sugarcane and grapes. The island combines forests, mountains and valleys with steep, terraced vineyards, reminiscent of steps leading up from the sea. The island’s climate is hot and humid, with average annual temperatures generally hovering between 20˚C and 24˚C. The soils are volcanic in origin and the vines are mostly grown on pergolas, planted alongside banan36 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

as, yams and other fruits and vegetables. Steep slopes combined with having to pick the grapes from underneath make harvesting a labour-intensive, often backbreaking, endeavour.

Although Port and Madeira are both fortified wines — meaning they have had a neutral spirit added to arrest their fermentation — the similarity really stops there. Ports are generally sweet wines and, while many have the ability to age, they tend to deteriorate relatively quickly once exposed to air. Ironically, heat and oxygen — the two factors we all learn to avoid exposing to wine — are responsible for the style of Madeira wines and their ability to seemingly last forever.

Historically, the West Indies were a major market for these wines. In the 17th century, they were transported from Madeira in barrels stored in the holds of ships, which would reach very high temperatures during the journey. On occasion, some of the barrels would return to Europe and this is when it was discovered that the effects of the journey (namely that heat accelerated the aging of the wine) had enhanced the wine’s intensity and

complexity, resulting in a nutty character. In order to replicate of Tinta Negra Mole from 2014 and 2009 allowed a comparison the same effects, Madeira producers developed estufagem, a pro- of the different stages of the wine’s evolution. The 2014 had been cess during which the wine is intentionally heated, thus contrib- in cask for only six months and was a bright ruby colour with an intense fruity character. The 2009 had started to oxidize, uting to its unique character.

During estufagem, wine that has already undergone the for- showing a slightly brown colour and nutty flavours. Both were tification process is placed into stainless steel tanks. Hot water from barrels aged in canteiro; although the 2009 wine was more is run through copper coils that snake through the interior of evolved, it was not yet ready to be released as Madeira as it was the tanks and it heats the wine for several months, mimicking not yet at an appropriate level of oxidation. the effects of a transatlantic journey. However, this accelerated At Justino’s, the largest producer and exporter of Madeira, a process is used only for less expensive wines. For higher quality horizontal tasting of 10-year-old Madeira allowed a comparison wines, a more natural process known as canteiro is used. As part of grape varieties. The 10-year-old Sercial was amber in colour, of this process, fortified wine is casked and aged in warehouses with orange blossom, honey, bright acidity and a dry finish. The for a minimum of two years. The warehouses are not temperature Verdelho was slightly darker in colour with dried stone fruit controlled; the natural heat and humidity of the island results in and nutty aromas and flavours with focused acidity and a dryoxidative aging, which causes evaporation and concentration, ish finish — it cried to be served with salted marcona almonds. and results in wines with complexity, intensity and increased nuttiness as they age.

For me, the diversity and versatility of the styles of Madeira Perhaps my greatest revelation was Madeira’s ability to age was surprising. The wines can and seemingly last forever, even once the bottle has been range in style from dry to sweet (depending on when the neutral opened. Single vintages from 1964, 1954, 1940 and 1934 were spirit was added to arrest the fermentation), with specific grape all distinct, depending on the grape variety used, but all still varieties traditionally associated possessed a freshness even when tasting from bottles that with the level of sweetness. Sercial is used to make dry wines, had been open — in some instances — for months.

Verdelho is common for semi-dry wines, Bual (Boal) for semi-sweet and Malvasia for the sweetest wines (Malmsey). The best quality Madeira wines tend to be made using these white grape varieties, plus occasionally Terrantez. The Boal was dark amber, showing molasses, dried fruit and a Tinta Negra Mole, a red grape, is widely used for producing less slightly sweet finish, but still with a lifted acidity. Finally, the expensive wines in greater quantities. There are several other Malmsey tended towards brown in colour. It was focused and rich grape varieties whose use is authorized, but the aforementioned in flavour, expressing tobacco and spice, yet still fresh and deliare the most common. cate despite having 130 grams per litre of residual sugar — a great example of how acidity in a wine can balance its sweetness, keepREGARDLESS OF THE STYLE, a common factor of these ing it refreshing and drinkable rather than cloying and heavy. wines is their freshness and acidity, resulting in my revelation Perhaps my greatest revelation was Madeira’s ability to age about how versatile these wines can be with food. This was high- and seemingly last forever, even once the bottle has been opened. lighted on numerous occasions during my stay on Madeira, but Single vintages from 1964, 1954, 1940 and 1934 were all distinct, in particular during a dinner at the Four Views restaurant. Here, depending on the grape variety used, but all still possessed a the chef paired each dish with a different style of the island’s freshness even when tasting from bottles that had been open — most famous wine. Black scabbardfish roe with tomato chutney in some instances — for months. was matched by a 15-year-old Henriques & Henriques (H&H) With the versatility of these bottles, it is remarkable that Verdelho Madeira; lemongrass mackerel with a chestnut purée the availability and use of Madeira is so limited. Restaurateurs was paired beautifully with a dry 10-year-old Barbeito Madeira and sommeliers could add another dimension to their menus made from Sercial; grilled octopus and olives with H&H 10-year- and wine lists through food and wine pairings and offering cliold Sercial; tuna belly and game bird sausage with Blandy’s ents the ability to try older vintages. There is no concern over 10-year-old Verdelho; and panna cotta with saffron caramel with open bottles going off, as the oxidative manner in which these Justino’s 10-year-old Boal. Each pairing demonstrated the re- wines are made allows them to last forever. I have a bottle of markable ability of Madeira, particularly with the savoury dish- 1969 Bual that has been open since December 2015 and it still es, to be more than simply an after-dinner sipper. tastes essentially the same as when I first opened it. Relative The eye-openers began almost upon arriving on the island, to the prices of vintage Port, old Madeira is a deal. Perhaps it’s with an “introductory” tasting of some 20 wines at Barbeito, a time for somms, chefs, restaurateurs and wine lovers to add the relatively young Madeira house founded in 1946. Barrel samples wines of Madeira to their repertoires. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 37

EVERYONE’S A ZINNER

by Michael Pinkus

Zinfandel. By now we all know it started its life as a grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski in Croatia; but since then it has had quite the exciting life.

below: Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos; top right: Chuck Hope and his son, Austin Hope, from Liberty School; bottom right: Masseria Surani oenologist Giancarlo Tommasi

38 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

Crljenak Kaštelanski made its way to Italy where it changed its name to Primitivo and took up root in the southern part of the country (Puglia). It lived (and some of its family still does) in Puglia for quite a while (the first written record of the grape is in the 1870s, but “they” say it was there for much longer, living in secret and setting up roots); but in a reverse Godfather-saga turn of events, it had to flee the country and take up residence in the United States, once again changed its identity. Now living in California under the assumed name of Zinfandel, it flourished and became incredibly popular with both winemakers and consumers.

Then in the mid-70s it happened: No I’m not talking about disco, although that was equally traumatic to many. The once proud Zinfandel was seduced over to the dark side (or should I say the lighter side) by a company little known at the time, Sutter Homes, who lulled Zinfandel into a sense of sweet security and friendship before washing it out in the form of White Zinfandel – a sweet, pink patio sipper that bore no resemblance to who Zin really was. Sure, he became incredibly popular and was invited to all the best parties, but soon Zinfandel’s true identity was lost in a sea of pink … and just like Riesling would get saddled with the mon-

or candy floss. I remember one time inviting a friend over for ribs and Zinfandel and his girlfriend laughed him off the phone, thinking we were indulging in the pink stuff. To this day, my friend says “that wine knocked me on my arse” (it was after all 15.7 percent alcohol) and she still snickers at the thought of his being wrecked by a pink wine too much for her to bear. But that’s what Zin is all about: big fruit, robust flavours (though there is more of a balance being sought these days) and mainly high alcohols. Still Zin is “no wimpy wine” as one producer is famous for saying.

It’s time to give Zinfandel its due and see if we can’t shuck that identity crisis it seems to have.

AMASTUOLA CENTOSASSI PRIMITIVO 2011, ITALY ($23.95) Plum, blackberry, chocolate, cassis, vanilla, black cherry with a super plummy-mocha finish.

RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2014, CALIFORNIA ($19.95) Gorgeous Zin with cherry, plum, blackberry, mocha and a spicy finish.

MASSERIA SURANI HERACLES PRIMITIVO 2013, ITALY ($17.95) iker of being sweet and Sauvignon Blanc would become synonymous with New Zealand, Zinfandel wore the tag of sweet and pink (still to this day).

There have been advocacy groups set up to try to restore its rightful place in the pantheon of American heritage grape varieties, like the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) founded in 1991 and whose mission statement reads: “ZAP is dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history. Winegrowers, winemakers and wine enthusiasts combine to form the membership.

The common focus is the preservation and recognition of Zinfandel as America’s heritage wine.”

But still Zinfandel leads a double life: pink and sweet by day, dark and brooding by night — great for many an outdoorsy event, both the patio party and the patio barbecue. But only one of these identities has a serious side, and it is one he wishes you would remember.

Zinfandel should be neither pink nor sweet (sweet of fruit maybe), but not sweet like sugar

Plum, black cherry, black liquorice and mocha galore along with a spicy finish and a black/white pepper mix; comes across as Californian in style in a blind tasting.

SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 39

The Godfather of Zin, Ravenswood's Joel Peterson

VICTOR OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($20)

CANDOR LOT 6 ZINFANDEL, CALIFORNIA ($21.95)

There are some intriguing notes of cola, tar, vanilla, herbal and toast that will lure you in and keep you guessing. This is not typical and that’s a good thing.

A non-vintage Zin that pendulums from the sweet to the just right, depending on the “Lot.” This Candor is the best I’ve tried in some time, not over the top but still with rich plum, black forest cake and vanilla.

RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($19.95) Pure raspberry, plum, cherry and vanilla: sweet of fruit, good acidity and nice balance.

RENWOOD FIDDLETOWN ZINFANDEL 2012, ITALY ($25)

GIORDANO COLLECTION PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA 2013, ITALY ($19.95) Vanilla, cherry, smoked plum and cassis with a little fig nuance; love that the Italians can derive the fresh fig note.

Nice hit of plum and cherry with vanilla, backed by nicely balanced acidity with a hint of spice.

GRAYSON CELLARS ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($19.95)

LIBERTY SCHOOL ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($20)

Another fruit-driven Zin and one of the better introductory Zins for those who don’t know Zinfandel is a RED.

Big, sweet blueberry and plum fruit right from the get go; it’s an everyday drinking Zin in a simple and sippable way.

TERRA D’ORO ZINFANDEL 2012, CALIFORNIA ($21.95)

CLINE BIG BREAK VINEYARD ZINFANDEL 2012, CALIFORNIA ($37.95)

Serious Zin for those that take Zin seriously. Cherry, mocha, cola, vanilla and herbal character that has a deliciously spicy finish.

Extremely fruit-driven juicy core with raspberry and cherry, balanced by good tannins and good acidity.

SCHOLA SARMENTI DICIOTTO PRIMITIVO 2008, ITALY ($29.95)

FATALONE PRIMITIVO 2011, ITALY ($19.95)

Plum and black cherry with a great vanilla seam that runs right down the middle. Showing herbal and spice notes on the finish.

Italy’s version of a simple Zin-sipper: round and flavourful with rich fruit of plum, cassis and blueberry jam.

MCMANIS ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($19.95) Sweet red berries and plum with plenty of vanilla-cherry on the finish.

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PEPPERWOOD GROVE OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($13.95) A value Zin that offers up a course in ZIN-101 … juicy red raspberry, blueberry and a touch of spice — its fruit-forward nature makes it a real winner. ×

Wines from Corsica, aka Corse and l’Ile de Beauté, are distinctly different. I was impressed by their concentration and quality, and excitedly smitten by their unique flavours and aromas. Corsican wines are France’s best-kept secret. But no longer.

THIS IS AN EXPOSÉ.

by Brenda McMillan

SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 41

Corsica’s edge is its more than 30 indigenous grape varietals, including its three noble grapes: Sciaccarello, Nielluccio and Vermentino. Although these varietal names, and others like Pivarella, Minustellu and Brustianu, do not initially roll off the tongue, the wines made from these grapes certainly go down easily enough.

But then again, they always have.

Prized for hundreds of years before the Romans came along in 35 BC, wines from Corsica are still receiving accolades and awards. Katrine Moral, Export Manager for UVIB, a co-op of 70 growers producing about 7 million bottles annually, explains why Corsica’s coastal vineyards are designed to produce wonderful wines.

“We are a mountain. That gives us a lot of different soils: alluvial, sandy, granite, shale and limestone. We have microclimates because of the sea, abundant sunshine and our moderating 3,500-metres-high mountain. Warm summers HENRI ORENGA DE GAFFORY have fresh breezes that protect the grapes with natural ventilation. We are Corsica. Just as we have our own language and cuisine, our wines are different also. We are very proud.”

It also helps that many of the vineyards have been owned for generations by families who know and love Corsica’s unique grapes — and their nuances. Along with aromas and flavours of the maquis (Corsica’s woodsy-herby vegetation) and the sea, CLOS CANARELLI TARRA D’ORASI 2012 ($35) what is underlying in all the wines is a smooth, captivating, I was impressed by all of Clos Canarelli’s AOP wines but this one personality-rich minerality. No matter what is layered overtop deserved attention because it is made from a field blend of 15 — wild herbs, liquorice, citrus, black, red or stone fruit, flowers, varietals that “grew up and were fermented together,” according spices, smoke or salt — the minerality shines through. As does to winemaker Paul Guillouard. Broodingly dark with a long finish, a brilliant, balancing acidity that makes wines welcome on the this elegant red has its own personality. Different. And delicious. table. They are also easy on the wallet. Corse, which produces 35 million litres of wine annually, offers excellent value. For an is- DOMAINE SANT ARMETTU 2013, AOP CORSEland producing so much wine (the equivalent of 135 bottles a year SARTÈNE ($25) per inhabitant), the quality is surprisingly high.

Hand-picked from 50-year-old vines in granite soils, this blend While techniques and traditions have changed over the of Sciaccarello, Mielluccio, Grenache Noir and Syrah grapes has centuries, one thing has not: the desire and dedication of Corse been crafted into a wine I love. Scrumptiously quaffable now, it growers and winemakers to make quality wines that are au- will improve for another 7 years. Very impressive and pretty. thentic expressions of the island and its grapes. Clos Culombu owner Etienne Suzzoni, whose family has lived on Corse for UNION LES VIGNERONS DE L’ILE DE BEAUTÉ PREScountless generations says: “Winemaking is always very im- TIGE DU PRÉSIDENT 2011, CORSE ($20) portant; it is a tradition, a way of life. There are lots of wine- This stellar co-op beauty is made “from our best varietals (Nielmakers here — both those who learn outside and come here, luccio [pronounced, “nelluch”], Grenache and Syrah) from our and those whose families have been here for centuries.” Wine- best areas by our best winemakers.” And it tastes like it. Silky, elemaking is something Corsicans are passionate about. It shows gant, complex and slightly smoky with round tannins, it enhanced our steak dinner and the cheeses that followed. Very impressive. in every glass. Oops, their secret is out.

RED

42 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

WHITE DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY CUVÉE FELICE 2015, AOP PATRIMONIO ($25) The Vermentino grapes in this wine ripen fully in the limestone foundation of the winery’s best vineyard, about 100 metres above sea level. Fresh and sleek, with a touch of salt and a smooth character. A charmer with anything from the sea.

LOUIS MONTEMAGNI MUSCAT DU CAP CUVÉE PRESTIGE ($25) A beguiling golden wine with barely-there tropical fruit flavours that made me wish it had only 5% alcohol instead of 15%. This is an off-dry-running-towards-sweet wine but its balancing acidity removes any hint of cloyness. We served it with French pastries and found happiness with the Chantilly-custard choux, dark chocolate bites and crème-brûlée tart, but this wine is a partner to anything not overly sweet.

CLOS NICROSI BLANC DE BLANCS SEC 2012, AOP COTEAUX DU CAP CORSE ($40) I’d call this wine “Golden Delicious” because of its burnished colour and its slightly baked apple scent. It tastes of green apples and stones, and finishes with almond nuances that are intriguing and without bitterness. Crisp and balanced, with a long finish. We enjoyed it with a chicken curry and friends.

DOMAINE RENUCCI CUVÉE VIGNOLA 2013, AOP CORSE CALVI ($20) Perfectly balanced, this white worked with apéros, as a complement to tartlets Lorraine and a meltingly ripe chèvre. Very expressive if you decant it 20 minutes before serving to bring out its peppery aromas.

ROSÉ LES VIGNERONS DE L’ILE DE BEAUTÉ RÉSERVE DU PRÉSIDENT 2015, CORSE ($15) This racy rosé was a house favourite when I lived in France. Not only was the grocery store sale price exceptional at 2 bottles for 4,65 Euros, the contents were exceptional too. Punching far above its weight, this co-op find offers minerals and delicate fruit, and has a very long finish. We savoured it with apéros of crème fraîche and smoked salmon with chives on mini blinis, an entrée of roasted chicken and potatoes, and with Brillat-Savarin cheese at the end. A regular at the table chez nous. Do decant.

CHRISTIAN IMBERT ET FILS VIGNERONS DOMAINE DE TORRACCIA 2015, PORTO VECCHIO, AOP CORSE ($21) The first taste of this pale salmon wine whispers, “I’m a sweetie pie,” but that changes in an instant because of a balancing acidity.

Pair it with skewers of spicy Thai shrimp.

DOMAINE PIERETTI MARINE 2015, AOP COTEAUX DU CAP CORSE ($25) The label says this 12.5% wine is “entre le schiste et la mer,” but I’d say this wine is far more stone than sea. A rosé with pure minerality, with a touch of salt and a long finish. Decant it half an hour before drinking and let time work its magic. You won’t be sorry. Serve at 12˚C for very fine results.

CLOS CULOMBU ETIENNE SUZZONI 2015, AOP CORSE CALVI ($25) Looks and smells delicate but delivers a hefty minerality thanks to deep granite soil in the vineyards that gives the vines only enough water to focus the flavours. This one is also laced with juicy, almost-there cherry. Lots of lip smacking with this bio beauty. Serve it with just about anything.

CLOS ORNASCA 2015, AOP AJACCIO ($20)

LINA VENTURI-PIERRETTI

Ajaccio is home to the magic Sciaccarello grape, the staple of this wine. Imagine pale almond-peach juice sluicing across cold stones and you have captured the essence. Perfectly balanced. Joyous. Fresh. Open it for a salad of roasted chicken, cashews and fresh peaches or apricots. Pass your glass and the poppyseed dressing. 20 minutes in the decanter brings out its best. Serve it at 7 to 10˚C. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 43

OPEN CELLARS

by Gilles Bois

Near the historic village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert lies the small town of Montpeyroux. Located in the heart of the Terrasses du Larzac wine region in the south of France, this village has a long tradition of making wine. Every third Sunday of April, the villagers celebrate this heritage during the “Toutes Caves Ouvertes” (Open Cellars) day. It’s an ideal opportunity to meet the winemakers and taste their wines, including older vintages in some cases, while listening to the sounds of the local marching band.

Montpeyroux’s winemaking tradition is exemplified by CastelBarry, a local cooperative founded in 1950. It still plays an important role today, but many growers have chosen to go their own way. For instance, Aimé Commeyras grew up in the village and had big ambitions for his Domaine de l’Aiguelière. He succeeded when his 1995 wines received top scores from the very influential Wine Advocate. Legend says this single event gave Montpeyroux its spot on the worldwide wine map. Sales boomed immediately afterwards but the domaine has declined since the death of Commeyras. However, his brother Auguste took over a few years ago and he is attempting a comeback.

Today, the most recognized name from Montpeyroux is probably Sylvain Fadat and his Domaine d’Aupilhac. Fadat started very small in 1989, but has been expanding his facilities and vineyard ever since. In 1998, he acquired a long abandoned plot called Les Cocalières where he grows Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache to make an eponymous cuvée. A white version is made from Roussane, Marsanne, Rolle and Grenache Blanc. Fadat’s 11 wines are all made under biodynamic viticulture; they have structure and depth, with many worth cellaring.

Another name that counts is Alain Chabanon, a dedicated, sympathetic fellow who describes himself as a hardheaded man.

When his importer in Canada wanted big scores and reviews to help boost sales, he refused and started looking for another importer! He wants his wines to be “what they should be” and not what some critics may prefer. Also a believer in biodynamics, he is currently completing the construction of a new underground cellar to mature his nine wines under the best conditions.

Domaine Saint Andrieu’s Charles Giner may be an old man but his eyes still have the spark of youth. His daughter Anne, who has taken over the everyday tasks from her father, is pursuing the 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

family traditions of making “lighter” wines (Giner’s own term) and of producing very low yields under organic viticulture. The wines are fresh and spicy, even when the climate could easily result in overripeness and heaviness. And they can age: Giner’s 1999 and 2001 vintages are holding surprisingly well.

Villa Dondona’s André Suquet is an original character. His winery is in an ancient hospital for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela (he is a retired physician, so there is a connection). But his originality best expresses itself in his trellising system for Vermentino: he uses pergolas, an ancient system where the vines are allowed to grow high enough to form a ceiling between rows, thus providing shade “that preserves freshness and acidity,” he claims. There are some counterarguments, though, and this system is largely abandoned today. I tasted Suquet’s Espérel (based on Vermentino plus Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc), and to his credit, it makes an enjoyable, light and crisp apéritif.

Finally, Domaine du Joncas is a small estate of only five hectares run by Pascal Dalier, a passionate man (“passion” seems to be his preferred word, he uses it a lot!). Yet another biodynamics fan, his wines are a pure expression of the grapes and the terroir.

Of special note is his Riesling, a rarity in the area, as astonishing as it is surprising with its floral and exotic fruit notes.

CASTELBARRY COMTES DE ROCQUEFEUIL 2014, LANGUEDOC ($13.55) Ruby purplish. Simple but inviting spicy nose of small red fruits with a touch of dry earth. Medium body, the soft tannins are wrapped in a ripe, fruity extract. Good balance up to the finish and ready to drink. A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LOU MASET 2014, CÔTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ($17) 2014 was fresher than 2013 in the area, but the difference is less obvious in this wine, maybe an effect of biodynamic viticulture.

The 2013 has notes of raspberry and blackberry while the 2014 has ripe strawberry and a touch of spice. Both have notes of fruit, stones and subtle oak. There is a bit more body in the 2013, but the mid-palate is tight with good volume and great balance in both cases. Finish is always firm and dry. Both can be drunk right now or held for a couple of years.

DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LES COCALIÈRES 2013, CÔTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ($32.50) 40% Syrah with equal amounts of Mourvèdre and Grenache. Deep ruby in colour. Discreet aromas of red and black fruit plus oak notes. Medium body built on acidity but well balanced; it feels “serious” without being austere. Finish is long, firm and expansive.

DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LA BODA 2013, CÔTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC MONTPEYROUX ($54) Syrah and Mourvèdre in equal parts. The light ruby colour may be a surprise: you’d expect something darker. Slightly perfumed with nice aromas of red berries and a touch of oak. Very fresh and even elegant with its medium- to full-bodied mid-palate and soft but firm tannic backbone. Finish is tight. All signs of a favourable future evolution. In comparison, the 2005 tasted a year ago had a beautiful nose of blackberries with elegant oak notes. It was still full-bodied with lots of fruity extract to wrap the firm tannins.

Domaine d’Aupilhac’s Sylvain Fadat is one of the most recognized names in Montpeyroux

DOMAINE DE L’AIGUELIÈRE CÔTE DORÉE 2006, CÔTEAUX DU LANGUEDOCMONTPEYROUX ($37.25) Full ruby with a garnet rim. At almost 10 years of age, the complex nose of dried herbs, garrigue, dark berries, vanilla-scented oak, tea leaves and soft spices is really inviting. Velvety with a beautiful mouthfeel and melted tannins, it’s perfectly balanced and very elegant. Medium body with a nice, long finish. At or near its peak, and simply delicious.

DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LES SERVIÈRES 2015, IGP PAYS DE L’HÉRAULT ($30.75)

ALAIN CHABANON CAMPREDON 2012, LANGUEDOC ($27)

Made from Cinsault vines planted in 1900, the wine shows a dark ruby colour and medium intensity but with deep aromas of blackberries. It is full-bodied with a rich and tight mid-palate, though the tannins are somewhat imposing and a bit too firm (the wine is still very young). Finish is powerful. It has the potential to age many years.

The spicy nose speaks of Syrah, the red fruit notes reminiscent of Grenache, and more spices and light earth come from Mourvèdre. Of medium body, the juicy and tight mid-palate has a spicy taste and fine tannins that are almost silky. A tad bitter, the long finish is refreshing. Overall, it is quite elegant and can be enjoyed right now. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 45

WATER-SWOLLEN GRAPES!

by Ron Liteplo

Over the past 20 years or so, wine drinking has gone global — and so has winemaking.

Brave, creative souls now grow grapes and make wine in what seem to be unlikely places. My latest find was in India, where several wineries are making surprisingly good wines from locally grown grapes.

The primary growing area is near the city of Nashik, an exciting four-hour drive northeast of Mumbai. On his dashboard, our driver had a figurine of Vishnu, a small portrait of Jesus and a bobble-head Buddha, plus a Star of David on his sunvisor — covering a lot of bases, and for good reason. He bungee-jumped in New Zealand.

He dove in a shark cage off Cape Town. He ran with the bulls in Pamplona. He drove in India. These activities all cause about the same degree of terror.

Once you manage to get to the wineries, you find a common thread among them: an international network. Many of the founders and winemakers were trained in California, New Zealand or Europe. All of the wineries emphasize environmental sustainability and strive to be as “organic” as possible, although the pervasive Indian air pollution is inescapable.

Benefitting from the coolness that comes with a bit of altitude (about 600 metres), the daily temperature fluctuates from cool early mornings scented with the surprisingly-not-unpleasant aromas of dung fires, to afternoon temperatures as hot as Beyoncé at the Super Bowl.

The heat creates high sugar levels in the grapes, and the extreme temperature vari46 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

ation creates intense aromas in the resulting wines. The soil is volcanic red clay and crumbly laterite rock, enriched by natural fertilizers (they have lots of cow manure in India!). The grapes are all hand-harvested by workers who must watch out for cobras among the vines.

At about 20 degrees north latitude, the climate is so hot that the vines never go dormant. Instead, they produce two crops each year, one in March and one in July, which you would think would be a winemaker’s dream. However, the July harvest takes place after the monsoon rains, and those grapes are so water-swollen that they are useless for winemaking — the wineries simply plough this crop under as compost!

Hearing that brought tears to my eyes.

The largest winery is Sula Vineyards, which employs about 650 people in a very modern complex, complete with a guest house that would not be out of place in the Napa Valley. Cool jazz plays in the hallways, there are outdoor concerts and parties with international performers, plus an attractive infinity pool and a first-class restaurant that will not give you “Delhi Belly” or the “Jodhpur Jumps.” However, inexplicably, they do not serve beer — and, as much as I love

wine, an ice-cold lager is just what is needed on a hot Indian afternoon.

Sula’s vines were first planted in 1996, and by 2011, its Sauvignon Blanc had won a silver medal at Decanter’s World Wine Awards. Sula produces a million litres of wine yearly: the vast majority is consumed in India, but it also exports to 22 countries.

Other notable nearby wineries include York, which produces some 500,000 litres annually and makes a nice Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz blend, and Soma, which produces about 85,000 litres and makes good Chenin Blanc and Shiraz.

Among many other good reasons to visit India is the exotic and fragrant cuisine. It is surprisingly easy to cook at home, though, if you take the trouble to source out a few special ingredients.

I used to think that good wine matches were impossible due to the complex and sometimes fiery spices used, but Indian wineries are successfully rising to that challenge. Try these or similar wines with Indian fare, accompanied by Basmati rice and/or warm Naan bread.

A few final words of advice if you tour these wineries: do not talk about how well red wine goes with a beef steak — I’m afraid I rather put off one of our hosts.

Winemaker at York Winery, Kailash Gurnani

SULA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 ($15) Clear, lemon-pulp yellow with an intense nose of cut grass, pineapple and red bell pepper. Unmistakeably Sauvignon Blanc with higher acidity and more subtlety than a New Zealand version. Crisp acidity over gooseberry, pineapple and passionfruit flavours.

SULA DINDORI RESERVE SHIRAZ 2014 ($20) Nearby Dindori is reputedly the best grape-growing region in India. Aged 8 months in American oak, this wine is a very deep purple with a nose of black pepper, smoke, blackberry and a bit of green stem.

Medium-bodied with lots of fruit, high acidity and pleasant, soft tannins.

SULA DINDORI RESERVE VIOGNIER 2015 ($15) From select blocks of vines, and includes 3% Rousanne. Nose of peaches,

apricots and flowers with good acidity but catering to local tastes with some residual sugar. Apple flavours and more peaches on the palate.

SULA BRUT ($15) Made using the méthode Champenoise and fully dry, an unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Viognier. Nose of ripe apple and toast with lemon and green-apple flavours on the palate.

SULA RIESLING 2015 ($20) The high diurnal temperature variations make Riesling work well despite the hot climate. Sula is the only Riesling producer in India. Pale yellow, with aromas of lime and lemon. Winemaker Ajoy Shaw, a microbiologist who has worked in California and Burgundy, recommends this wine with Indian food due to the bit of residual sugar on the palate and the low alcohol level, which both work well with Indian spices.

YORK ARROS CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SHIRAZ 2012 ($20) A reserve bottling, this wine is deep garnet with a nose of cassis, raspberry, smoke and fresh black pepper. Barrel-aged for 1 year in French and American oak, it has lots of fruit and a capacity to age.

SOMA VINEYARDS SILVER CHENIN BLANC 2014 ($15) Pale, silvery yellow and smelling of peaches and citrus. On the palate, more peaches and a little residual sugar balanced by some interesting bitter almond on the finish.

SOMA VINEYARDS SHIRAZ/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 ($15) Very deep crimson with blackberry, cassis and herbs on an attractive nose.

Tart raspberry, plum and smoky flavours from 8 months of aging in new, medium-toast barrels. Soft tannins and good acidity provide structure. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 47

BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON

SEPTEMBER SONG

My parents decided I would join the marching band in my freshman year of high school, despite the fact that I never truly mastered the clarinet in the grade-school band.

The first day of band practice, I wandered around introducing myself to one and all until an upper classman told me to shut up and listen to the band director. I learned pretty quickly there would be no grade-school shenanigans in the high school band. No talking, no whispering, no breathing unless it was into your woodwind. When our director spoke, we stood at attention.

Marching band was serious business.

We began rehearsals in late August, learning the marching songs in the band room before moving onto the gridiron in September. Truth be told, I was never really able to memorize the songs. When the band director walked through our line to hear us play, I toodled the scale in the correct key, hoping he wouldn’t notice that I had no idea what the actual notes were. In retrospect, I’m sure he noticed. But he let me march anyway.

Every year when September rolls around, I think about those long-ago days in the high school band. As an adult, I carved out a pretty good career in the music industry, working for various record labels where having “good ears” was the ultimate compliment. My ears were tuned to music’s frequency when I joined the high school marching band at the age of 14. I learned to appreciate music, even if I couldn’t play a note of it.

Meanwhile, as I wax nostalgic about the heydays of high school, here are the dishes I’m cooking up in September.

48 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

ITALIAN MEATBALL SANDWICH

SERVES 4 TO 6 I can’t think about September without thinking about Frank Sinatra’s September Song. So here, in Frankie’s honour, are the fixins for Italian meatball sandwiches. I don’t like onions in my meatballs, but if you do, mince a small onion, sauté in olive oil and add to the mix. I also like to make my own sauce, but in the case of meatball sandwiches, it’s my day off. I use whatever sauce I have on hand. You might also want to top the meatballs with sautéed peppers, mushrooms and onions.

1 lb ground veal or beef 1/2 lb bulk Italian sausage

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp salt

1 tsp dried basil 1/2 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp paprika 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

2 eggs 1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs Spaghetti sauce, toasted hot dog buns, mozzarella cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large bowl, combine everything — up to the bread-

crumbs — in a mixing bowl. Roll into small to medium-sized meatballs and place on baking sheet that has been covered with cooking spray. Bake until cooked through.

3. Time will vary depending on size of meatballs. Spread spaghetti sauce on toasted buns. Top with a spoonful or two of sauce and mozzarella cheese. If desired, run under broiler until cheese melts.

MATCH: Pass the Chianti.

× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/

SEE YOU IN SEPTEMBER MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER

SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER OR LIGHT SUPPER See You in September by The Tempos was released in 1959 and resurrected by The Happenings in 1966. Despite its incongruous upbeat tempo, The Happenings’ version was a hit. Chowder has nothing to do with the song, but it might have been on the menu at the Manhattan diner where the Brill Building songwriters ate before writing this song. By the way, another Brill Building writer named Carole King had a hit in 1962 with It Might As Well Rain Until September. Is there something about September that inspires songwriters? Or is it the chowder?

1 tbsp butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 carrot, peeled and diced

1 stalk celery, diced Salt and pepper, to taste

4 cups chicken broth

1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, undrained

2 large red potatoes, peeled and diced

1 bay leaf

1 can clams, undrained

1 bottle clam juice Minced parsley and crumbled cooked bacon, for garnish 1. In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt butter

with olive oil. Add onion, garlic, carrot, celery, salt and pepper.

Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes or until vegetables are softened.

2. Add chicken broth and tomatoes. Using scissors, chop tomatoes. Add potatoes and bay leaf. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until potato is tender. Stir in clams and clam juice. Heat through. Remove bay leaf. Transfer to soup bowls and garnish with minced parsley and bacon.

MATCH: Serve with a Pinot Grigio.

GREEN DAY GREEN SALAD

Green Day’s Wake Me Up When September Ends is actually a very sad song about love and loss. However, when I think of Green Day, I think of happier things, like green salad. But then I’m one of those people who pretty much relates everything to food. By the way, Green Day has sold more than 75 million records worldwide, meaning these guys have banked a lotta lettuce.

4 1 1 2 1 1

cups mixed salad greens Bartlett pear, cored and diced cup green grapes, halved stalks celery, chopped small cucumber, peeled and diced tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2

1

1

1/4

4

1

tbsp white wine vinegar tbsp Dijon mustard tsp fresh lemon juice tsp sugar Salt and pepper, to taste tbsp extra virgin olive oil avocado, peeled, pitted and diced

Place salad greens in a large bowl. Add pear, grapes, celery, cucumber and parsley. Toss. In a small bowl, whisk vinegar, mustard, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil.

Pour dressing over salad and toss to coat. Top with avocado.

MATCH: Uncork Sauvignon Blanc.

ROASTED SALMON WITH HERB OLIVE OIL

SERVES 4 I absolutely love Earth, Wind and Fire; they’re one of my all-time favourite groups. Their September is one of those nostalgiclooking-back-at-days-gone-by kind of songs, but it’s all done in a happy danceable groove. Plus, in the video the band is dressed like they’ve all just emerged from King Tut’s tomb. More recently, American Idol’s Chris Daughtry drags us back down to earth sans wind and fire with his reflective and kind of teary-eyed September, where we’re asked to remember the fleeting summers of our youth. With all this reminiscing, I’m gonna need some brain food.

And nothing stokes the brain like the DHA in salmon.

4 salmon fillets, patted dry, each about 1 1/4 inches thick Paprika, to taste

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tbsp fresh parsley, thyme or dill

2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and pepper, to taste 1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Coat a shallow roasting pan with cooking spray. Place

salmon fillets in pan. Sprinkle with paprika. Roast, uncovered, 15 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 125˚F. Remove from oven and let stand, covered, 5 minutes.

3. In small saucepan over low heat, cook olive oil, herbs, garlic, salt and pepper. Pour the herb olive oil over the salmon.

MATCH: Serve with sparkling rosé wine and a large dose of nostalgia.

More great September songs: September Morn/Neil Diamond; September When It Comes/Rosanne Cash with Johnny Cash; September Song/Willie Nelson or Ella Fitzgerald; The Late September Dogs/Melissa Etheridge; September When I First Met You/Barry White; Pale September/Fiona Apple; September Grass/James Taylor; Maybe September/Tony Bennett; September Love/Kool & the Gang; September Night/Van Morrison; Flaming September/Marianne Faithfull; September Gurls/ The Bangles; September Love/Daft Punk, Earth Wind & Fire. × SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 49

NOTED 91 50TH PARALLEL PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2015, OKANAGAN, BC ($19)

Hints of melon and red berries on the nose followed by a bright strawberry and pomegranate palate with a dry, crisp and clean end and a lingering savoury element. (TP)

88 UMANI RONCHI CASAL DI SERRA VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2014, MARCHE, ITALY ($18.85)

Bitter almonds and oily pine nuts lead this Verdicchio, one tinged with earthy grass and dried straw, perhaps reflecting the wild yeast ferment and 5 months on the lees. Green and yellow apples, pear, thistle, wild flowers and subtle white honey are carried on the medium-bodied palate, one freshened by brisk and cleansing acidity. The finish is a touch hot even at 13% alcohol — and ready for protein like halibut or seared scallops. Grapes from 8 to 30 years old on heavy clay loam hillsides 200 to 350 m go into this classic Castelli di Jesi. The clay weight is felt grounding this wine. (TR)

TWIN PINES HAMMER BENT ORIGINAL CIDER, ONTARIO ($10/1 L) Made from Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden Russett and Jonagold apples and finished at 6.3% ABV, the nose shows mellow apple and subtle spice notes to go with a spritz that pours vigorously but quickly dissipates. It has good weight on the palate with gentle effervescence, bright apple flavours, a touch of spice and a lingering finish.

Quite refreshing. (RV)

50 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

91 WAKEFIELD ST ANDREWS SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($58)

91 TANTALUS OLD VINE RIESLING NATURAL BRUT 2013, OKANAGAN, BC ($25)

Earthy and stony notes on top followed by upfront green apple skin and keen acidity.

Opens up on the palate to a burst of bright citrus and lemon lime, with juicy acidity through a lengthy finish. (TP)

91 DAYDREAMER PINOT GRIS 2015, NARAMATA BENCH, BC ($20)

Floral and peach aromas followed by a textured palate of vibrant stone fruit with added body from partial fermentation in French oak before being finished in stainless steel. Well balanced with integrated fruit and good structure. (TP)

89 CASTORO CELLARS MERLOT 2012, PASO ROBLES ($19)

Clear deep garnet. Faint nose of slightly burnt cherry pie, or perhaps Christmas fruit cake. Well balanced; the high alcohol (14.5%) is kept contained within the acid, blackberry fruit and tannins. Good drinking now, will keep another year. (RL)*

Refined Cab, red and black fruit showing some softening at the corners, but holding the bright freshness. Ample leather, dried cherry and tobacco leaf lead, with cherry, thorny cassis and cedar bringing up the rear. 18 months in French oak are integrating well into the fruit with lengthy tannins straddling ripe and grippy. Sweet spices and warm ripeness (14.5% alcohol) gives this a generosity that is well suited to roast pork if drinking now. Otherwise, continue to cellar for another few years. (TR)

93 GILLES FLACHER 2010, AC SAINT-JOSEPH, FRANCE ($22.67)

Deep plum-red with fine suspended particles. Aromas of smoke, cherries, caramel, pepper and black liquorice. Full-bodied and muscular with concentrated black cherry flavours over a woody soft tannin structure.

Needs a couple more years. (RL)*

92 ROSEHALL RUN ROSEHALL VINEYARD JCR PINOT NOIR 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($39)

The nose is subtle and pretty with bramble, red fruits and barrel spices, all harmonious as they open up in the glass.

The cherry, cranberry and raspberry notes build on the palate with an interesting vein of minerality and earth that’s all carried on a bed of silky tannins and lifted by freshening acidity. (RV)

× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe.

QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good

SPARKLING 92 2027 CELLARS BLANC DE BLANCS SPARKLING QUEENSTON ROAD VINEYARD 2013, NIAGARA ($30) Sparse use of added sugar here with a 4.5 g/l dosage in this 100% single-vineyard Chardonnay bubbly. A vigorous bubble in the glass with a nose of flinty minerality, baked bread, citrus and green apple. It’s energetic and fresh on the palate with tangy lemon-citrus notes, apple and flint notes; juicy yet austere at this early stage. (RV)

92 BIG HEAD BIG BANG SPARKLING NV, NIAGARA ($45)

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, all wild-fermented. 31 months on the lees with a dosage of recioto (sweet dried grapes) Chardonnay. The nose is all expressive lemon, biscuit, toast, brioche, pineapple and grapefruit that is as refreshing as it is elegant. The bead is persistent with flavours of lifted citrus and apple that are rich and textured through the finish.

Well balanced with finesse and flash. (RV)

92 GRUET CHARDONNAY BRUT 2009, CHAMPAGNE ($46)

This lovely 100% Chardonnay sparkler pours with a lively bead of bubbles. It is complex and elegant with a nose of citrus, green apple, mineral and toasty vanilla spice. It’s austere on the palate with layers of citrus, apple and pear with good persistence in a fresh, balanced style. (RV)

80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs

91 CREEKSIDE SAUVIGNON BLANC BACKYARD BUBBLY 2013, CREEK SHORES, ONTARIO ($24.95) Fuller bodied and fruitier than most Pinot/Chardonnay-based bubbles! That said, this is the best SB sparkling wine I have ever tasted from Ontario. Guava, blackcurrant juice, lemon verbena, grapefruit, lime, passion fruit and hints of yeast are present on the nose and palate. Excellent length, fresh acidity and 13.5% alcohol rounds everything out. A must try! (ES)

91 TANTALUS OLD VINES RIESLING NATURAL BRUT 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)

Earthy stony hints followed by upfront green apple; acid-driven. Opens up on the palate to a burst of bright citrus lemon-lime and juicy acidity through a lingering finish of green apple skin. (TP)

91 GRUET BRUT SELECTION CHARDONNAY NV, CHAMPAGNE ($40) A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier with a nose of melba toast, fresh lemon and a burst of lime and grapefruit. It has a persistent and elegant mousse with lemony goodness on the palate to go with toasted notes in a bright, pristine style. Quite lovely. (RV)

91 OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE ANCIENT METHOD 2013, OKANAGAN ($40)

Unfiltered and unfined pure expression of Chardonnay from near Black Sage, bonedry at 1.3 g/l with definite yeasty top.

Chewy, broad-textured and layered citrus and toasty notes with earthy and sage undertones. A crisp, clean finish. (TP)

90 JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE BRUT 2011, NIAGARA ($19.75) An attractive and budget-wise substitute for Champagne. Light straw colour with an active mousse; citrus and apple nose with a mineral thread. Medium-bodied, dry, green apple, citrus and almond flavour; elegant with good length. A great buy at the price. (TA)

90 BLOMIDON ESTATE WINERY METHODE TRADITIONELLE CRÉMANT 2013, NOVA SCOTIA ($25)

Opens with attractive floral scents, fresh green and yellow fruit and subtle leesy overtones. Green apple flavours dominate on the palate with vigorous mousse, refreshing acidity and chalky mineral grip, finishing just off-dry. A refreshing lighter-style fizz to drink as an apéritif or with lighter dishes, especially shellfish. (SW)

90 CA’ DEL BOSCO FRANCIACORTA CUVÉE PRESTIGE NV, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($55)

Rich, doughy and concentrated, this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco commands attention with its ample heady autolytic character. 20% vintage wine and 28 months on the lees amps up the volume and density, while a persistent bead of acidity works overtime to lift the heft. Baked apple, brioche, nougat and lemon are supported with creamy mousse and fine spice through SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 51

NOTED the lingering finish. Confident presence and rich from top to bottom, this would pair with mains such as roasted partridge with élan. (TR)

Bright citrus, green apple and berry-fruit flavours are backed by incisive acidity, strong mineral character and creaminess on the finish. (SW)

89 CASE BIANCHE PROSECCO SUPERIORE BRUT VIGNA DEL CUC, ITALY ($17)

89 JANSZ PREMIUM CUVÉE NV, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA ($28)

A persistent nose and earthy/mineral notes, green apple and citrus. It’s refreshingly dry with a lively bead of bubbles that release apple, grapefruit and stonefruit flavours, which are tangy and fresh through the lasting finish. Made with Glera and Chardonnay grapes. (RV)

89 SÉBASTIEN BRUNET MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE 2013, VOUVRAY, LOIRE, FRANCE ($24.30)

High-acid sparkling wine with a gentle cushion of ripe fruit. This “méthode Tasmenois” is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from across the island. Taut with red apple, cherry and citrus, the palate courts lemon curd and Asian pear before a riff of tight grapefruit and a whiff of herbal anise. (TR)

88 RÉSERVE DE SOURS SPARKLING ROSÉ BRUT NV, FRANCE ($19.83)

Pale yellow, vanishing bubbles. Pleasant nose, white fruits and buttery notes. Striking by its great roundness on the palate with a clean fruity taste, yet very dry, especially on the finish. Don’t wait. (GBQc)

Faint stonefruit, orange and sourdough bread nose. Very fizzy and light-bodied on the palate; tastes of peaches and melons with a long tangy finish. Lovely for brunch with a croissant. Drink immediately. (RL)*

89 CANTINE SACCHETTO PROSECCO DOC BRUT. ITALY ($24.25)

88 PAUL BUISSE CRÉMANT DE LOIRE NV, LOIRE, FRANCE ($24)

Delicate apple, floral and subtle honeyed scents with lively fizz, elegant ripe apple and a drop of honey on the palate.

Finishes just off-dry with some creaminess offset by grippy mineral and refreshing acidity. (SW)

89 SUMMERHOUSE BLANC DE BLANCS 2010, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($26.17)

Pale yellow with abundant foamy bubbles. Light nose of Granny Smith apple, yeast, lemon and apricot jam. On the palate, it is fruity with mouth-watering acidity, a slight sweetness, and pineapple and marmalade flavours leading to almond on the finish. Drink over the next year or so. (RL)*

89 CAVES SÃO JOÃO VINHO ESPUMANTE DE QUALIDADE MÉTODO CLASSICO BRUTO 2013, BAIRRADA DOC. PORTUGAL ($26.54) Displays lively, very fine bead in the glass.

Bouquet unfolds elegant citrus, with noticeable lime, green apple, delicate floral notes and enticing toasty brioche.

52 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

Perfumed red apple blossom and red grapefruit pith lead this Loire crémant, a blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay from Touraine. White peach, pear skin and a thin sheen of meadow honey joins in on the palate, dialed in with a tight citrus-pith acidity and lightly structured palate via 12 months on the lees. (TR)

88 LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE D’AURORE ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE NV, FRANCE ($24)

dertone. Cleansing, refreshing, quite dry.

Nothing complex in the fruity, minerally taste but a clean finish. Drink now. (GBQc)

WHITE ARGENTINA 89 CATENA ZAPATA ALTA CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOZA ($45)

Evident but subtle notes of toasty oak, white peach and floral on the nose, very fresh in the mouth with pure apple and melon. Minerally with a sleek, long, mouth-wateringly lifted finish. Great balance, brightness and complexity. (GB)

AUSTRALIA 89 WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY/PINOT NOIR 2012, ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($23.50)

Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir strike a harmonious chord between firm and ripe, between crisp and baked orchard fruits. Streaking pithy citrus acidity is met by a bump of sweetness on the stony, sage-dusted finish. Enough heft and fruity freshness here to handle many dishes (sautéed apple pork chops was a hit). (TR)

AUSTRIA

Pinot Noir, Gamay and Chardonnay from Burgundy is sourced across Côte d’Or, South Burgundy and the Mâconnais respectively, before 12 months on the lees in this crémant. Strawberry, raspberry and cherry dominate, with scented floral petals, lightly grippy tannins and riffing grapefruit acidity. Lovely, elegant and simply serious fizz (at a great price). (TR)

88 WINZER KREMS 13 GRÜNER VELTLINER 2015, NIEDERÖSTERREICH ($12.95)

87 MONMOUSSEAU BRUT CUVÉE JM 2011, TOURAINE, LOIRE, FRANCE ($19.25)

88 LAURENZ V AND SOPHIE SINGING GRÜNER VELTLINER QUALITÄTSWEIN NIEDERÖSTERREICH ($20.69)

Very pale, lasting rim of bubbles. Delicate nose of apple and pear with a chalky un-

This great-value Grüner is pale straw in colour with a minerally, peach-pit nose and a light floral top note; medium-bodied, white peach and lemon flavours freshen the mouth. Remarkably elegant for the price with good length. (TA)

Offers good varietal character with floral

scents, generous green and yellow fruit flavours, racy acidity, mineral grip and a satisfying fruity finish. (SW)

CANADA 93 LA FRENZ WINERY KNORR VINEYARD SÉMILLON 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($22)

Made from 30+ year old vines, possibly the earliest of this variety planted in Canada. This outstanding wine was blended with 10% barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, adding weight and aromatic complexity. Opens with beguiling lemon citrus, fresh fig and honeysuckle on the nose. Fine, concentrated citrus-fruit flavours are delivered in a smooth, generously rounded package. A richly satisfying wine that will develop toasty richness and further complexity with time. (SW)

93 MAVERICK ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($26)

A truly elegant expression of Chardonnay, with citrus and orchard fruit up front, a pleasingly viscous palate with a good balance of fruit. Restrained French oak and creamy nutty notes before a vibrant close. (TP)

93 2027 CELLARS ABERDEEN ROAD VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2013, NIAGARA ($30)

The nose is gorgeous with penetrating notes of ripe apple, citrus, poached pear and a range of elegant oak spices. It is broad and complex on the palate with rich and creamy fruit, toasted oak spices and length through a long finish. (RV)

93 BIG HEAD CHENIN BLANC BA 2014, NIAGARA ($34)

Just over 20% of the fruit was botrytis-affected (BA) and after wild fermentation it reached 30 g/l of residual sugar. The nose is unlike anything else you will whiff in Niagara with notes of wild alfalfa honey, creamy pear, wild flowers and cantaloupe.

It’s viscous on the palate with super ripe fruits; concentrated with honey and spice that comes at you in layers. (RV)

92 50TH PARALLEL RIESLING 2015, OKANAGAN ($19) Green apple and stony hints on the

nose followed by zesty lime notes of intense citrus and grapefruit wrapped in well-balanced, keen acidity with assertive minerality through the mid-palate to a lingering close. (TP)

on the nose with muted floral scents, but incisively flavoured bright citrus, mineral, great acidity and a very long finish. (SW)

92 JOIEFARM MUSCAT 2015, OKANAGAN ($23)

Alluring upfront orange and floral aromas precede a luscious, perfumed palate with citrus, intense mandarin orange, ginger and spice wrapped in firm acidity, before a lengthy end. (TP)

An exciting and unique nose of peach, star fruit, lime and grapefruit with a subtle anise note playing in the background. The sweetness works well with a broad range of exotic fruits and is balanced somewhat by the freshening, natural acidity. (RV)

92 SYNCHROMESH STORM HAVEN 2015, OAKANAGAN, BC ($30) Aromas of slate, stony notes and citrus before complex layers of mineral and lemon zest wrapped in racy acidity with broad mouthfeel and intense, lengthy steely finish. (TP)

91 SEASTAR ORTEGA 2014, PENDER ISLAND, BC ($20)

Mineral and stone fruit on top, followed by vibrant citrus and apricot notes, echoed by a viscose mouthfeel, before a clean, grapefruit-toned end. (TP)

91 JOIEFARM UN-OAKED CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($23)

The minerality is more expressive with each passing vintage of Joie’s “Chablis-esque” Chardonnay, which is crucial, in my opinion, for a stripped-down, unoaked version of this varietal. It shows a range of citrus and apple notes with that lovely and fresh river-rock minerality. The apple is ripe on the palate with sharp lemon and grapefruit that pops on the finish. (RV)

90 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES RIESLING OLD VINES 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($16.95)

Pale water colour with a bouquet of bergamot, white peach, lemon, lime, green apple, white flowers and hints of honey.

Comes across as dry on the palate because of the refreshing acidity. Splendid mineral aftertaste. (ES)

90 THREE SISTERS WINERY RIESLING 2014, NARAMATA BENCH, BC ($17.90)

A well-focused Riesling, somewhat shy

90 TOWNSHIP 7 MUSCAT 2015, OKANAGAN ($18)

90 JOIEFARM PINOT BLANC 2015, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22.90)

Lovely scents of pure ripe pear carry through on the generously flavoured palate with hints of tropical fruit and grapefruit.

Backed by deftly balanced acidity and drying mineral on the finish. (SW)

90 JOIEFARM UN-OAKED CHARDONNAY 2015, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22.90)

Ripe citrus and tropical fruit with discernable pineapple scents shift to crisp apple in the mouth. Backed by steely acidity and drying mineral, finishing very crisp and almost lean. A food-friendly wine with excellent weight and balance. (SW)

90 TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS FIGARO 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($24)

Showing elegant, aromatic floral and stone fruit on the nose with rich, creamy texture, ripe peach, citrus, stony mineral and a lightly honeyed note on the finish. (SW)

90 TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS ALBARINO 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($24.90)

Lovely floral scent together with citrus, stone fruit and concentrated pear. Citrus and stone fruit backed by zesty, bracing acidity on the palate. Very true to the original Spanish varietal but with a distinctive local accent. (SW)

90 BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2013, NIAGARA ($24.95)

Texture, balance and elegance all wrapped up in a delightful package.

Peach, citrus, golden apple, honey, vanilla and pineapple are built on a medium-bodied frame. Lingering with just the right amount of freshness. Pair with swordfish steaks topped with beurre blanc. (ES) SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 53

NOTED 90 CAVE SPRING RIESLING THE ADAM STEPS 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($24.95)

Fermented via natural yeasts, this Riesling exudes a perfume of peach, honey, white flowers, banana and anise while the palate adds grapefruit, nectarine and lime.

Off-dry, brisk acidity and lovely length. It should age well over the next decade. (ES)

89 FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16.95)

Very pale colour with a hint of lime; the minerally, citrus nose is already developing petrol notes. What you get on the medium-bodied palate are off-dry, honey and grapefruit flavours. Well made and good value. (TA)

89 THREE SISTERS CHARDONNAY 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($19.90) Mellow, buttery, ripe citrus and spicy scents with similarly mellow lemon citrus, butterscotch and spicy oak in the mouth. Rich character is balanced by refreshing acidity. (SW)

89 VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION ST URBAN VINEYARD RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($20)

Made from 35-year-old vines of a clone propagated in the Mosel by the Weis family (who used to own Vineland Estates in the 1980s). Almost water-white in colour with a minerally, floral, honeyed grapefruit nose, it’s off-dry, light on the palate, and beautifully balanced with great tension between fruit and acidity. (TA)

89 HOWLING BLUFF ESTATE WINERY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($20) An interesting, full-flavoured and well-balanced Sauvignon with plenty of green fruit, fresh green herb, asparagus, citrus and a surprising touch of cinnamon spiciness. (SW)

89 NORMAN HARDIE RIESLING 2015, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($21)

Pale straw in colour with a hint of thyme.

Offers a spicy, citrus and grapefruit nose with a thread of minerality. Medium-bod54 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

ied with crabapple and citrus flavours that linger on the palate. (TA)

89 NICHOL VINEYARD PINOT GRIS 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($22)

Enticing fresh berry-like scents. The same theme carries through on the palate with berry-fruit flavours and dry savoury notes, finishing just off-dry. Charming, easy to drink. (SW)

89 MORAINE WINERY RIESLING 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($23.90) Unusual dry savoury aroma with more recognizable Riesling character in the mouth. Elegant, supple citrus fruit with charming floral notes leaves a definite sweet impression on the palate although there is very little residual sugar. (SW)

89 LA FRENZ WINERY PROBYN-EASTMAN VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($24)

Aromatic ripe stone fruit, fine floral perfume with some spicy overtones and an array of stone fruit and tropical fruits on the palate, finishing with a touch of sweetness. (SW)

89 TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS FANDANGO 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($24.90)

This blend of Alberino and Verdejo grapes is unique in Canada. Elegant aromatics reveal fine green fruit and subtle floral notes with elegant, concentrated green fruit and some citrus on the palate. (SW)

89 TIGHTROPE WINERY VIOGNIER 2014, OKANAGAN ($25) Shows good Viognier varietal floral and stone fruit style, good weight and balance, together with vanilla and spicy notes influenced by exposure to French oak and acacia barrels. (SW)

88 CAVE SPRING RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA ($14.95)

Cave’s entry off-dry Riesling delivers the goods in the 2014 vintage. Expressive; there is smoky minerals, peach, lime, apple and petrol. Refreshing, with a long lime finale. (ES)

88 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES OLD VINES RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($16.95)

The Bosc family has a proud history when it comes to Riesling. Their oldest Riesling vineyard was planted in 1978. From this block, they make their Old Vines Riesling.

The 2013 vintage is very pale in colour with a lime tint; the nose shows those characteristic citrus and petrol notes.

The wine is off-dry with honeyed grapefruit flavours and good length. (TA)

88 THREE SISTERS BENCH WHITE 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($17.90)

A blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewürztraminer showing Riesling-style floral notes together with the lightly peppery rose-petal character of Gewürztraminer. Gently fruity in the mouth, it finishes with a touch of sweetness. (SW)

88 EASTDELL ESTATES BLACK LABEL VIOGNIER 2013, ONTARIO ($18)

Here you find a refreshing Viognier with aromas of peach, white flower, orange blossom and hints of pineapple. A perfect patio wine, or serve with chicken satay or fish tacos. (ES)

88 SERENDIPITY WINERY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)

Offers plenty of lively Sauvignon varietal style with supple generous citrus and green fruit and characteristic grassy herbal notes. (SW)

87 MONTE CREEK FRONTENAC GRIS 2015, KAMLOOPS ($16)

Pear and tropical notes before an off-dry palate; fruit forward with some acidity and citrus aftertaste. (TP)

CHILE 89 VILLARD EXPRESIÓN RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($11.67) Clear pale gold. Medium-intensity nose of tropical fruits, pear and bruised apple frosted with vanilla cake icing. Medium-bodied with fresh pear and pineapple.

Faithful to Chile but nodding to Burgundy with good acidity and some structure from oak treatment. Long finish. Drink up, especially with smoked salmon and a Caprese salad. (RL)*

CROATIA 89 ILOCKI PODRUMI TRAMINAC 2013 ($14.95)

Traminac is a Croatian term for Gewürztraminer, and this hits all the right flavour notes. Old gold colour with a spicy, lychee and rose-petal nose. Full-bodied grapefruit and lychee flavours that sustain well on the palate.

Rich and satisfying mouthfeel. (TA)

FRANCE 92 DOMAINE LAROCHE CHABLIS PREMIER CRU LES MONTMAINS 2012, CHABLIS ($38)

A bitter herbal pear skin draws fluidly through the round, fresh palate, carrying fennel, lemon verbena and meadow grass.

Pear skin bitterness and spiced stoniness on the lengthy finish. Quite a complete, interested and textured wine; drinking well now, or hold for 5+ years. (TR)

91 L’ABEILLE DE FIEUZAL 2011, PESSAC-LEOGNAN ($41.75)

This white Bordeaux is pale straw in colour with a lemony, grassy, minerally nose of struck flint with a touch of oak; fresh and lively grapefruit and green plum flavours on the palate with a tangy, citrus finish. (TA)

90 PASCAL JOLIVET SANCERRE 2014, LOIRE ($28.10)

Pale yellow. Sharp, aromatic nose of boxwood, lemon, grapefruit and floral notes.

Light body, very refreshing attack followed by a slightly fat, savoury mid-palate. Clean finish. Enjoy now or keep up to 3 to 4 years. (GBQc)

89 PIERRE SPARR RÉSERVE PINOT GRIS 2014, ALSACE ($16.95) Amid the oceans of Pinot Grigio, there is also Pinot Gris — the same grape but usually given oak treatment. Alsace is renowned for its Pinot Gris. Pale straw

in colour with an earthy, peach aroma heightened by a floral grace note. It’s medium-bodied, off-dry, with well-extracted peach and yellow apple flavours.

Serve it with lightly curried chicken or pad Thai. (TA)

89 DOMAINE DES AUBUISIÈRES CUVÉE SILEX 2014, VOUVRAY, LOIRE ($19.85)

Very pale yellow. Minerally (flint), quince and citrus notes over a hint of honey.

There is a fine acidity in the attack, a full, round mid-palate that seems a little off-dry. Finish is clean. Ready to drink on white meat in creamy sauce. (GBQc)

89 JM BROCARD CHABLIS LES VIEILLES VIGNES 2014, BURGUNDY ($25.85)

Pale golden yellow. Great nose, typical Chablis with citrus, fresh butter and a mineral undertone. Flavourful, bone-dry with great acidity balanced by a fatty mid-palate and an intense finish. Drink or hold. (GBQc)

89 ODÉ D’AYDIE PACHERENC DU VIC BILH SEC 2013, SOUTH WEST FRANCE ($28)

15- to 20-year-old Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng grapes off clay and gravel slopes are hand-harvested, pressed slow and gentle, and cool-fermented over a couple of weeks before resting in a mix of oak and stainless steel for 7 months. Regular lees-stirring ups the texture, a welcome addition to a blend that is oft lean and simple. This is anything but; this dry, serious Pacherenc has structure and gentle intensity, with warmed honey, grapefruit, wild flowers and roasted bitter almonds.

Fuller on the palate (14.5%), the warm sandy/stony finish lingers and is suitable for simple roasted poultry (think chicken thighs). Best enjoyed when it warms and expands in the glass. The Laplace family have been wine growing at Château Aydie for 3 generations, since 1927. (TR)

88 LES MOUGIUELS 2014, PICPOUL DE PINET AOP ($19.65)

Shows floral, green and tropical fruit scents with a pinch of green herb. Tropical fruit, exotic green fruit and stone fruit flavours are tempered by agreeably balanced acidity with lingering fruit on the finish. (SW)

88 LA CHABLISIENNE LA SEREINE 2012, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($24)

Pale yellow. Classic Chablis nose: minerally, with discreet white fruits and citrus notes. Firm acidity, dry, clean taste. Not especially generous but not austere at all, just a fine glass of classic Chablis. Ready to drink; it will keep a few more years. (GBQc)

88 GARNIER & FILS CHABLIS 2013, CHABLIS ($28)

Fruit from the villages of Maligny, Ligny and Villy go into this crisp and stony Chablis. Lovely balance between creamy lees, green apple, lemon and fine spices, all lifted with lively acidity to a spicy, crisp finish. Classic Chablis at a solid price. (TR)

87 CHÂTEAU CAPENDU LES JARDINS DE MEYRAC 2014, VIN DE PAYS D’OC, LANGUEDOC ($14.55)

Pale yellow. Elegant nose of citrus and a light floral touch. Fresh, light body and an expressive mid-palate, not very concentrated but with a nice fruity taste. Easy drinking, so don’t wait. (GBQc)

87 PASCAL JOLIVET ATTITUDE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, VIN DE PAYS DE LOIRE ($16.75) Pale yellow. Clean Sauvignon Blanc nose of citrus and herbaceous notes.

Vivid attack, built on acidity with an energetic mid-palate, a lean texture and a nice finish with more freshness.

Drink now. (GBQc)

ITALY 90 BARONE MONTALTO VIOGNIER 2014, SICILY ($15.95)

Straw-coloured with a minerally, white peach and gooseberry nose; medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced and elegant with lemony, white peach flavours. Great price. (TA)

89 INAMA VIN SOAVE 2014, SOAVE CLASSICO, VENEZIA ($20.90) Pale yellow. Aromatic, light floral and honey notes over white fruits (pear, peach). Delicate flavour, round and silky mouthfeel, fruity taste. Balanced finish.

Drink now. (GBQc)

SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 55

NOTED 89 TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2015, ALTO ADIGE ($22.95)

Now this is a Pinot Grigio I can drink!

Straw coloured with a minerally, white peach nose; medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced and elegant with lemony, white peach flavours. (TA)

86 AMAMI PINOT GRIGIO 2014, SICILY ($17.50)

Possibly the most expensive bottle-tojuice ratio I’ve seen, this Sicilian Pinot Grigio bottle is adorned with a ceramic embossed heart, inscribed with words of amore. The patented ceramic is unique to Etiké, and this Pinot Grigio is one intended solely for the export market.

Fresh hay, banana, yellow apple, pear, pine nuts and green melon in this fresh, light wine. A slick of lees veils the palate, and the finish is short and crisp. Easy pour with broth shellfish. (TR)

PORTUGAL 88 QUINTA DE CURVOS LOUREIRO 2015, VINHO VERDE ($12.95)

Loureiro means laurel in English. Needless to say, there is definitive bay leaf quality, which melds with green apple, peach, citrus and mineral. It is refreshing with fine length. A perfect summer sipper and a steal for the price! (ES)

88 QUINTA DE CURVOS AFECTUS ALVARINHO 2015, VINHO VERDE ($17.95)

I am a sucker for good Alvarinho, and this one certainly delivers the goods. Peach, apricot, lime, apple, mineral and floral qualities are framed by fresh acid and great length. Pair with sushi or chilled shellfish platters. (ES)

88 QUINTA DAS ARCAS ARCA NOVA BRANCO 2015, VINHO VERDE ($13)

Great value! In typical Vinho Verde fashion, this is light, crisp and slightly sparkling. It is also flavourful with peach, citrus, bay leaf, white flower, smoke and apple. Very good length and ready to drink with whitefish or spicy fare. (ES) 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

SPAIN 90 LA GITANA MANZANILLA SHERRY, JEREZ ($18.95)

The perfect apéritif to stimulate your guests’ appetites is a glass of chilled, dry sherry. Manzanilla is the driest style of sherry. Very pale in colour with a nose of chamomile and green nuts, this crisply dry, elegant, light-bodied fortified wine has a mouth-freshening flavour of dried lemons, nuts and a slightly salty tang on the finish. (TA)

89 ORO DE CASTILLA VERDEJO 2013, RUEDA ($15.95)

Pale straw colour with hint of green. A nose of struck flint, cut grass and peapods.

Medium-bodied, dry with some residual sweetness in mid-palate balanced on the finish with lively citrus acidity. (TA)

85 EL PESCAITO MERSEGUERA/ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, VALENCIA DOP ($11.99)

A blend of the local Merseguera grape with Sauvignon Blanc, this is a light, crisp wine showing citrus, floral and tropical-fruit scents on the nose. Citrus, green apple and something akin to lychee in the mouth with clean acidity and a very light finish. (SW)

UNITED STATES 90 ROBERT MONDAVI FUMÉ BLANC 2014, NAPA ($22.95)

Mondavi’s 2014 Fumé contains 6% Sémillon, which combines with partial oak aging and lees stirring, creating a weighty texture. Pink grapefruit, passion fruit, verbena, guava, nectarine, fresh grass, spice and cream make for a sophisticated offering. Excellent length with a lifted aftertaste. (ES)

89 DIAMOND RIDGE CHARDONNAY 2013, NAPA ($22)

Pear, apple, Meyer lemon, banana, anise and butterscotch are all wrapped up in a nice package. The palate is fruit-driven with a creamy edge and good acidity. Lingers. (ES)

89 MICHAEL DAVIS CHARDONNAY 2014, LODI ($22.95) This Chardonnay speaks to its California origins by way of the ripe fruit and new oak. Fullish, there is sweet peach, pineapple, cream, spice, vanilla, white flowers and honey. The palate reveals a combination of creaminess and sound acidity as well as great length. Pair with Chilean seabass topped with a tropical fruit and jalapeño salsa. (ES)

88 BONTERRA CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA ($19.95)

Medium yellow. Rich nose of white fruits, a mineral edge and a hint of oak that is more present on the palate. Lively acidity, ripe fruity taste with a round and fat texture from the oak. A tad bitter in the finish, it will become better integrated after a few months in the cellar. (GBQc)

88 CLINE CELLARS VIOGNIER 2014, NORTH COAST ($19.95)

This wine captures Viognier’s perfumed attributes of peach, pineapple, apricot, bananas, white flowers, spice and citrus.

There is lifted acidity and a long aftertaste. Try with coconut-based curries or piri-piri chicken. (ES)

88 TOM GORE VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2014, CALIFORNIA ($20)

This California appellation Chardonnay delivers lots of flavour for the price.

Peach, pineapple, apple, honey, vanilla and spice aromas carry over to the palate where there is fine acidity and a great finale, which is punctuated by a mineral note. (ES)

88 FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA CHARDONNAY 2014, MONTEREY COUNTY ($23.95)

Well made, with banana, sweet peach, spice, cream and vanilla attributes. Soft on the palate with a fruit-driven finish.

Splendid length and ready to drink. (ES)

88 FERRARI-CARANO FUMÉ BLANC 2013, SONOMA ($25)

Light toast and fresh green-apple aromas lead to a fresh, fuller-bodied palate.

White honey, meadow florals, ripe gooseberry, melon and anise-kissed medicinal notes are lifted with streaking white grapefruit acidity, binding and narrowing this richer wine. 35% has been fermented and rested in French oak, with the remainder in stainless, preserving the crisp orchard fruit. A nice balance, especially when paired with sablefish. (TR)

86 CHATEAU STE MICHELLE CHARDONNAY 2014, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON STATE ($20) Ripe, round and full, with vanilla-scented tropical fruit. Creamy and smooth on the palate, with buttery richness and red-apple juiciness before a gentle clove spicing on the finish. Finishes a touch sweet and warm; best suited to creamy chicken pasta dishes. (TR)

85 CONUNDRUM WHITE 2013, CALIFORNIA ($23)

A mixed bag of grapes makes up this off-dry, aromatic blend — a floral and tropical fruit salad of ripe pears, lychee, apricot and peaches. Baked apples, ginger spice, peach jam and vanilla bean make up the round palate, kept fresh with some pink grapefruit juiciness.

Floral fruit salad in a glass. (TR)

79 BUTTERFLY RIDGE PINOT GRIGIO 2013 ($11.83)

Pinot Noir (70%) and Gamay (30%) blend comes from the Loire Valley around Sancerre and Anjou. The wine lives up to its name with a vibrant pink colour. It’s very much helping the move to a drier style. (TP)

91 SEASTAR BLANC DE NOIR ROSÉ 2014, PENDER ISLAND, BC ($22) Vibrant rhubarb and cranberry aromas precede a juicy palate underpinned by firm acidity before a long, dry finish with a lingering touch of spice. (TP)

90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES ROSÉ 2015, OKANAGAN ($19) From a cooler site on Black Sage Bench, this pale salmon, 100% Cabernet Franc Rosé sports upfront citrus and red fruits with a touch of herbal notes. A juicy palate of cranberry and crabapple, with a pleasing tart edge before a dry close. (TP)

90 LIQUIDITY ROSÉ 2015, OKANAGAN ($20)

The only Dornfelder rosé in the country yields upfront red fruit before a refreshing, dry palate of rhubarb, strawberry and citrus with some spicy notes in the close. (TP)

89 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA ROSÉ 2015, NIAGARA ($16.95)

Clear, very pale yellow. Faint but pleasant nose of sweet peach and pear, and a bit of orange blossom. Light-bodied and light-flavoured, dry with refreshing acidity over faint lemon-lime flavours.

Drink immediately. (RL)*

This is one of the best Ontario rosés I’ve tried from last year’s vintage. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Merlot, it’s deep pink in colour with a red apple and strawberry bouquet.

The wine is medium-bodied, dry with a fresh and lively palate. Well made with balancing acidity. (TA)

ROSÉ

88 NUGAN ESTATE THIRD GENERATION ROSÉ 2015 ($10.85)

91 QUAILS’ GATE ROSÉ 2015, OKANAGAN ($16)

Lifted strawberry and red berries.

Pale salmon colour with a juicy citrus background and good acidity. Some clove, spice and zesty peppery notes through the finish. Juicy, luscious and generous. (TP)

91 JOIEFARM ROSÉ 2015, OKANAGAN, BC ($19)

The winery says its inspiration for this

Deep orange-pink in colour with a minerally, white-pepper and candied raspberry nose; full-bodied, dry and fruity. An easy drinking wine. (TA)

88 SERENDIPITY WINERY ROSÉ 2015, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)

Softly scented ripe berry-fruit with red berry and pomegranate flavours presented in a somewhat dry, food-friendly European style. Attractive and easy to like. (SW)

RED ARGENTINA 91 CATENA ZAPATA CABERNET FRANC APPELLATION SAN CARLOS 2014, MENDOZA ($28)

A stylish and focused wine with loads of spiced flavours of raspberry, cherry, black and red currants, mocha, earth and fresh herbs. Fine-grained tannins, elegant mouthfeel, bright acidity and a soft, refined finish. Great with wild game. (GB)

91 CATENA ZAPATA MALBEC APPELLATION VISTA FLORES 2014, MENDOZA ($28)

Rich and concentrated, but so elegant with a pretty nose and layers of blackberry, currant, red liquorice and red plum with supple tannins and balanced, fresh acidity on the long mineral finish. (GB)

89 CATENA ZAPATA CABERNET FRANC APPELLATION SAN CARLOS 2013, MENDOZA ($19.95)

A nice change from Malbec. Dense purple in colour, the wine shows a vanilla-oak and currant nose; it’s full-bodied with surprisingly ripe red and black currant flavours tinged with notes of mint and pencil lead and finishing firmly with evident tannins. (TA)

88 GRAFFIGNA CENTENARIO MALBEC RESERVE 2014 ($13.95)

Dense purple in colour, this juicy Malbec offers a spicy, cedary, plum bouquet with dark chocolate and vanilla-oak notes. Medium bodied and dry, its blackberry and plum flavours are carried on lively acidity and contained by a firm tannic framework. (TA)

AUSTRALIA 89 PIPING SHRIKE SHIRAZ 2013, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($18.95)

The Piping Shrike is South Australia’s bird emblem. This wine is dense purple-black in colour, offering a smoky, medicinal nose of blackberries with an earthy note; it’s full-bodied, dry and firmly structured with lively acidity. (TA) SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 57

NOTED 87 PIRRAMIMMA SHIRAZ 2012, MCLAREN VALE ($30)

This supple, dark cocoa-lined Shiraz recalls McLaren Vale, with its dense blueberry, dark floral musk, hint of cool mint and dusty tobacco character. Ripe and powdery black fruits lend heft to the full palate, weighing a few grams more than the moderate acidity can bear.

Chewy tannins take this to a chocolate-mint finish. Lamb chops with mint sauce, please. (TR)

CANADA 93 LE VIEUX PIN SYRAH EQUINOX 2013, OKANAGAN ($79.99)

One of the best Syrahs from a Canadian vineyard I’ve tasted. Dense purple in colour with a savoury-herbal nose of black fruits and a smoky note; full-bodied, dry and fruity on the palate with lively acidity. Beautifully balanced with savoury blackberry and dark chocolate flavours enhanced by a floral note.

Fresh finish. (TA)

92 LAUGHING STOCK SYRAH 2013, OKANAGAN ($34)

Syrah plus 4% Viognier. Côte Rôtie inspired blend yields deep inky indigo in the glass with aromas of cassis and black cherry followed by a palate of plush and plummy intense blue fruit.

Leathery, peppery, meaty edge, assertive mouthfeel and viscous with a definite black-pepper finish. (TP)

91 FORT BERENS CABERNET FRANC 2013, LILLOOET, BC ($25)

Blend of Lillooet and south Okanagan grapes brings aromas of fresh red berries followed by a well-structured medium-bodied palate of mulberry and cherry, well-managed oak, mineral notes and a spicy finish. (TP)

91 MORAINE WINERY SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2013, NARAMATA BENCH ($28.90)

Sourced exclusively from Sophia’s Vineyard, only 600 cases were made of this complex Pinot. Delicate strawber58 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

ry, cherry and spicy herbal scents with a bit of barnyard on the nose; shifts to thick cherry and milk chocolate flavours encased in velvety tannins on the palate, finishing very dry. (SW)

91 CC JENTSCH SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($29)

Golden Mile and 24% Black Sage fruit co-fermented with 9% Viognier. Black fruit and pepper on the nose, followed by a luscious but well-balanced, well-textured palate of black fruit, spicy notes, approachable tannins wrapped in good acidity and definite oak before a lengthy finish. (TP)

91 NICHOL VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2013, NARAMATA BENCH ($30)

This wine boasts elegantly perfumed dark berry-fruit on the nose together with a whiff of earthy pungency. Refined dark fruit reveals berry and plum flavours backed by firm tannic grip and balanced acidity. (SW)

90 LA FRENZ WINERY DESPERATION HILL PINOT NOIR 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($23)

Made from 5 different Pinot Noir clones and aged for 13 months in French oak, this one offers delicately perfumed strawberry, red cherry, wild berry, lightly spicy and cedary notes with a splash of milk chocolate. Ripe, well balanced and drinking well now. (SW)

90 MONTE CREEK RANCH RANCH HAND RED RESERVE 2014, THOMPSON VALLEY ($30)

A blend of Marquette, Merlot, Frontenac Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon that sees 16 months of oak aging. It has a lovely nose of smoky red fruits, charred oak spices, earth and liquorice. The tannins are soft on the palate to go with earthy dark and red fruits, anise, attractive oak spices and all lifted by bright acidity. (RV)

90 CAVE SPRING LA PENNA 2011, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($39.95)

Cave’s appassimento (think Amarone) wine is made entirely from Cabernet

Franc grapes that were air-dried for 9 weeks before pressing and fermentation. Even though the label says 14.5%, it is closer to 15.5%. A profile of plum, mint, chocolate, dark cherry, vanilla, coconut, tobacco and spice meets up with a long aftertaste. Ready to drink now or until 2021. (ES)

90 CC JENTSCH CABERNET FRANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($49) Aromas of lifted red berries and sage notes followed by vibrant cherry and raspberry with juicy acidity before a spicy end. (TP)

89 CAVE SPRING CABERNET FRANC ESTATE 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($29.95) Fullish, this Cab Franc is hugely floral with tobacco, cassis, raspberry, vanilla, earth, green herbs and cocoa. Fold in the tannins and 14.5% natural alcohol, and there is enough structure to cellar over the next 5 years. (ES)

89 DOMAINE QUEYLUS TRADITION PINOT NOIR 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($29.95)

Mature ruby colour with a high-toned cherry nose; medium- to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted, sweet plum and cherry flavours with a firm tannic finish and a note of cedar. (TA)

89 LE VIEUX PIN SYRAH CUVÉE CLASSIQUE 2014, OKANAGAN ($44.99)

Dense purple colour. Smoky, savoury-herbal blackberry nose with a light floral top note; full-bodied, dry, well-extracted black fruit flavours carried on lively acidity with ripe tannins and good length. (TA)

88 CAVE SPRING GAMAY 2014, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($15.95)

Packs a lot of flavour for the price.

Strawberry, cherry, plum, earth and black pepper. Mid-weight with a soft mouthfeel and just the right amount of juiciness.

Superb length and ready to drink. Pasta Bolognese or charcuterie would be solid choices with this wine. (ES)

88 NYARAI CELLARS CADENCE 2011, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($21.95) A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Deep ruby in colour with nose of oak, dried currants and plums; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured flavours of plums and cranberries with a finish of grainy tannins. (TA)

88 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 12-140 SYRAH, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($24.95)

Put this red in a carafe for a half-hour and then experience a complex mix of coffee, pepper, earth, blackcurrant, plum, leather, game, vanilla. Mid-weight and ready to go with rosemary and garlic rack of lamb. (ES)

88 TIGHTROPE WINERY SYRAH 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($35)

Shows some complexity on the nose, with berry-fruit, peppery and subtle floral scent, together with earthy barnyard aromas. Red and dark berry-fruit kick in on the palate with firm tannic structure and a light splash of dark chocolate. Will develop further over the next 3 to 5 years. (SW)

87 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT MERLOT 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($21.95)

This Merlot will be Rockway’s last from their vineyards, as the vines perished in the horrible winter of 2014.

Very much textbook Merlot with plum, dark cherry, raspberry, dried herbs, dried earth and anise. (ES)

87 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 11-140 CABERNET FRANC, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($22.95)

A juicy Cabernet Franc, which has a green streak that runs through the cassis, redcurrant, tobacco, graphite, violets and spice. Fine length and approachable right now. (ES)

87 MORAINE WINERY SYRAH 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($25.90)

Still a work in progress, this one offers raspberry scents and a bit of forestfloor character with blackberry and chocolate flavours. Tannins are manageable but youthful acidity needs time to settle down. (SW)

CHILE

FRANCE

89 COUSINO MACUL ANTIGUAS RESERVAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, VALLE DEL MAIPO ($16.40)

96 BOYD CANTENAC 2003, AC MARGAUX ($32.33)

Full ruby. Dark berries, spicy notes and a hint of eucalyptus. Medium to full body with an intense mid-palate, powdery tannins. The finish is contrasted by some freshness yet it is slightly warm. Drink or hold. In the weaning months of the summer spark up the BBQ for this wine.(GBQc)

89 TABALÍ RESERVA ESPECIAL SYRAH 2012, LIMARÍ ($17.95)

I’m a great fan of the Syrahs they’re making in Chile now, especially from the cool Limarí region. This Syrah is dense purple-black in colour with an intense nose of blackberries and iodine; rich and full-bodied, spicy and herbal on the palate, it has a lovely rich mouthfeel and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

89 TERRE NOBLE GRAN RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE 2012, MAULE VALLEY ($19.95)

Dense purple colour with a rich, spicy blackcurrant nose topped with cedar and herbal notes; medium-bodied and dry with blackcurrant and black plum flavours. Rich and flavourful. (TA)

89 MIGUEL TORRES CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES SPECIAL RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE 2009, CURICÓ ($21.95)

Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of plum and tobacco, the wine is full-bodied with richly extracted sweet blackcurrant fruit tinged with dark chocolate flavours. It works well with flank steak or mushroom burgers. (TA)

86 WAVE SERIES BY CARMEN RIGHT WAVE PINOT NOIR 2014, LEYDA VALLEY ($13.09)

True to name, the Wave Series reflects the wine’s relative proximity to the cooling Pacific, here in the Leyda Valley.

Rhubarb, cranberry and medicinal cherry fill this medium-bodied Pinot, one broken up by a saltiness and softened out by smooth tannins. Savoury-edged and straight up, this calls out for easy food — think pan-grilled pork chops and root vegetable hash. (TR)

Has matured more successfully than some higher-ranked 2003 Bordeaux. Now a clear, medium-deep garnet. Rich and complex nose of cedar fronting cassis, raisin, black cherry and chocolate aromas. Medium-bodied, still fresh and very fruity with high acidity for such a ripe vintage. Tannins still have grip, but this is best drunk now. (RL)*

93 DOMAINE BILLARD PÈRE ET FILS LES TAVANNES POMMARD 2009 ($34.50)

Clear medium-deep garnet. Lovely, complicated ripe red-berry and stewed-rhubarb nose, with tobacco and coffee aromas in the background. Medium-bodied, rich and mature cherry flavours, with high acidity. Tannins nearly gone. A classic for coq au vin, one bottle for the pot, one for you. Drink up. (RL)*

93 MARQUIS DE CALON 2005, AC ST-ESTEPHE ($37.17)

The second wine of Calon Segur. Clear deep garnet. Classic left-bank nose of cassis, blackberry, over earth, smoke and oak spice. The acidity is high and the tannins are still a bit rough, but the sour cherry-fruit is thinning a little: drink up, won’t get better. (RL)*

93 JANOUEIX 20 MILLE 2005, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ($76.33) Clear, opaque garnet. Good intensity nose of oak, black cherry and raisin.

The maturity of the nose is defied by the freshness of the fruit on the palate. More like an Aussie fruit bomb than a Bordeaux, with high alcohol and still-rough tannins. Delicious but could be better integrated and more complex. Probably at its best now. (RL)*

93 CHÂTEAU ANGLUDET 2011, BORDEAUX ($210)

They have now dropped the d’ from Angludet. A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, this delightful claret is dense purple in colour with a spicy, cedary, blackcurrant bouquet heightened by a light vanilla-oak note; richly extracted savoury SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 59

NOTED flavours of black plum lifted with a floral grace note finishing with firm tannins.

Hold 5 years at least. (TA)

91 JEAN-PAUL BRUN TERRES DORÉES L’ANCIEN BEAUJOLAIS 2013, BEAUJOLAIS ($25)

Terres Dorées is a limestone-laden area known as the “Region of the Golden Stones.” Sustainably focused and non-interventionist in both the vineyard and winery, Brun is a firm advocate of minimal SO2, natural yeast, old vines and low yields. L’Ancien, from vines 50 to 80 years old, is savoury and lithe.

Wild herbs, rasped stone, juicy wild raspberry and thorns are lifted with bright, lifted cherry and textured with mineral salts. Graceful, with a bamboo-firm frame of tannins. Salted sage lingers on the lengthy finish.

Drinking well now (mine went with truffle salted frites and lardon-decked endive) or will cellar for 5+ years easy. #GoGamayGo. (TR)

90 CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY 2013, MERCUREY, BURGUNDY ($28.55)

Light ruby. Classic red Burgundy nose of small red fruits and spicy notes, discreet oak. Medium-bodied, flavourful with great acidity and balance. Energetic finish of very good length. Drink or hold up to a few years. (GBQc)

89 CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT CUVÉE IMPATIENCE 2014, CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($19.75) Ruby purplish. Spices and red berries (raspberry, blackberry) with discreet oak notes fill the glass. Medium-bodied, balanced in every way, it drinks well with its fruity taste and soft, ripe tannins. Ready to drink, it can hold 2 to 3 more years. (GBQc)

89 DOMAINE DES ROCHES NEUVES 2014, SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY, LOIRE ($21.80) Dark ruby with a purplish rim. An inviting cocktail of red and black berries emerges from the glass; no oak is perceptible. Medium-bodied, rich fruity taste, nicely fresh and surprisingly 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

mellow tannins for such a young wine.

Delicious to drink now, it will keep 2 to 3 more years. Try it with charcuterie or hamburgers. (GBQc)

89 CHAPOUTIER LES MEYSONNIERS 2013, CROZES-HERMITAGE, RHÔNE ($28.50) Ruby purplish. Black olives, smoke, ripe raspberry and earthy notes form this classic Syrah from the north Rhône Valley. Medium- to full-bodied, very dry, the spicy taste is profiled by acidity. The intense finish is firm and slightly grainy.

Drink or hold. (GBQc)

88 FAIVELEY LES MAUVARENNES 2014, MERCUREY, BURGUNDY ($25.20) Light ruby. Nice Pinot Noir nose of small red fruits and spicy notes plus a floral touch. Light body, fresh fruity taste with light, barely firm tannins. Nice compact finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

87 CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT 2013, CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($13.95)

Simple nose of red and black fruits with spicy notes and a touch of oak. Ripe fruity taste, finely grained tannins, balanced acidity. Medium length in the slightly bitter finish. Ready to drink on red meat or aged cheeses. (GBQc)

87 CHÂTEAU DE PENNAUTIER 2014, CABARDÈS, LANGUEDOC ($15.95)

Medium ruby. Clean red fruits, quite simple but inviting. Medium body at most, with a good balance and soft tannins. It goes down easy. A good choice of everyday wine, perfect with roasted chicken or meat lasagna. (GBQc)

86 JN BOUSQUET TERRE À TERRE 2014, CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($10.70)

Ruby purplish. Fresh red fruits, hints of garrigue and soft spices. Simple fruity taste, very soft texture, almost creamy. Medium body and balanced mid-palate; powdery tannins, short finish. Drink up. (GBQc)

ITALY 93 UGGIANO FALCONERI CABERNET SAUVIGNON IGT 2008, TUSCANY ($45)

The nose is intense with notes of blackberries, currants, cloves, toasted vanilla, bramble and roasted herbs. It’s a full-bodied red that reveals a range of ripe, delicious dark fruits on the palate with a plush bed of tannins on a structured frame. It is that lovely depth of spice that will enthrall, all derived from long barrel-aging in a combination of French oak barrels. A beauty. (RV)

92 CIABOT BERTON BAROLO LA MORRA 2011, PIEDMONT ($85)

An enticing wine with aromas of roses and violets. Flavours of cherry, plum, liquorice and figs; vibrant, fresh and elegant with firm tannins and balanced acidity with spice and mineral notes on the lingering and alluring finish. Layered and complex. Delicious. Should evolve nicely over the next 5 to 8 years. (GB)

91 FONTANAFREDDA 2011, BAROLO DEL COMUNE DI SERRALUNGA D’ALBA DOC ($43.69)

Crimson-tinged in the glass with cinnamon, nutmeg, a whiff of clove and subtle oak on the nose. Shows rich plum and cherry flavours with velvety tannins and a bit of youthful astringency. Long, complex finish displays integrated fruit, spice and fine oak. Drinking now with food but better with more time in the cellar. (SW)

91 CIABOT BERTON BAROLO ROGGERI 2010, PIEDMONT ($95) Pure crushed berries and plums with a hint of spice; full-bodied and compact, with loads of rich fruit and big, velvety tannins. A tight core; concentrated yet elegant and balanced with a long, lingering finish. Lovely. Great with roasted meats and earthy dishes. (GB)

90 CERRAIA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2007, DOCG ($27.17)

Clear, medium to deep garnet. Medium-intensity nose of caramel, vanilla,

raisins and stewed fruit. Medium-bodied. Mature raisin and baked fruit flavours are starting to fade relative to the acid and tannin levels, but still a classy wine. Drink up. (RL)*

90 CIABOT BERTON BAROLO 2011, PIEDMONT ($75)

Concentrated and elegant with deep, layered flavours of cherry, sweet spice and plum; firm but well-integrated tannins, liquorice and mineral notes, with a long, bright, savoury, persistent finish.

Call for grilled wild game and flavourful hard cheese. (GB)

89 ASCHERI BARBERA D’ALBA 2014, PIEMONTE ($16)

Barbera d’Alba is one of the most underrated Italian wines. Deep ruby colour with cherry, plum and wood spice on the nose. Medium-bodied, dry and savoury with a sour cherry flavour. Mellow tannins, well balanced with fresh acidity.

Good value. (TA)

89 TENUTA SANT’ANTONIO MONTI GARBI VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2013, VENETO ($19.95)

Valpolicella is one of the most versatile wines for both red meats and rich pasta dishes. Veneto producers are now making it in a more robust style. This wine is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta.

Deep ruby in colour with a mature rim, it offers a spicy, earthy nose of plums and vanilla. It’s medium-bodied, with raisiny-plum flavours and a sandalwood note on the finish. (TA)

89 MONTE DELLE VIGNE LAMBRUSCO MAESTRI 2015, EMILIA ROMAGNA ($26)

Deep ruby red with aromas and flavours of ripe black cherries, plums, wildberries, mocha; bubble-gummy with a creamy mouthfeel, soft bubbles, fresh grapey quality and long, fruity, dry-ish finish.

Perfect with fatty salumi. (GB)

89 ALOIS LAGEDER LAGREIN 2011, ALTO ADIGE ($30) Dense, herbal and leathery, Lagrein finds its true home in the mountainous Alto Adige region of Northern Italy. 5 generations of the Lageder family have

been farming grapes here, so you have to trust they know what works. With vines ranging from 15 to 50 years old and a 17-month rest in concrete, it’s a promising glimpse. Like this — a richer red, freshened with mountain air, and built around dusky mulberry, herbal, black raspberry and redcurrants with a firm, leathery structure and furry tannins.

Thorny florals and cinnamon bark spicing linger on the finish. (TR)

88 DI MAJO NORANTE SANGIOVESE 2013, TERRE DEGLI OSCI IGT ($17.24)

A solid, satisfying Sangiovese from the top producer in the little-known Molise region, showing generous dark cherry and berry-fruit, firm tannic backbone and good overall balance. (SW)

88 MONTE DELLE VIGNE ROSSO MDV 2013, EMILIA ROMAGNA ($26) Ruby red with aromas and flavours of cherry, liquorice and earth. Soft, elegant tannins, balanced structure, a silky mouthfeel and bright finish. A nice match with stuffed pasta dishes, boiled or roasted meats and Parmigiano Reggiano. A blend of Barbera and Bonarda. (GB)

88 CESCONI PLETTER LAGREIN RISERVA 2013, TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE ($48)

Dark with aromas and flavours of crushed currant, dark fruits, earth, dried herbs and black liquorice; full, soft tannins with a silky mouthfeel and intense fruit throughout the long, clean finish. (GB)

87 MONTE DELLE VIGNE NABUCCO 2011, EMILIA ROMAGNA ($32)

Soft, round and approachable with flavours of cherry and plum, a touch of spice and earth with a lifted fruity finish. A blend of Barbera and Merlot. (GB)

NEW ZEALAND 86 KIM CRAWFORD CORNER 50 VINEYARD SMALL PARCELS MERLOT/CABERNET 2013, HAWKES BAY ($32)

Part of Kim Crawford’s premier “Small Parcels” tier, this opaque and thick Hawkes Bay Merlot is doused with 28%

Cabernet Sauvignon. Ample wood is evident from the start, with 14 months in French and American oak, 31% of which was new. Black cherry and kirsch aromas continue on the full-bodied palate, along with bitter black chocolate, mint, dried blackberry and fruitcake.

The wood tannins are strident, propping up the ripe, weighted fruit before a black espresso finish. A bit clumsy; best poured with rich short ribs and mashed root vegetables. (TR)

PORTUGAL 88 APHROS VINHÃO 2014, VINHO VERDE ($25)

Aphros is widely considered the best producer of red Vinho Verde, as they pick late and eschew the tradition of capturing of CO2 (and subsequent funky aromas) in the wine via bottling before the completion of malolactic fermentation. Black/purple colour due to Vinhão being a teinturier grape, the wine exudes dark cherry, fraise de bois, raspberry, plum, spice, red flowers and herbs. Brisk acidity and tannins make for a versatile food wine with richer dishes. Individual juice indeed! (ES)

SOUTH AFRICA 91 AA BADENHORST SECATEURS RED BLEND 2012, SWARTLAND ($25)

Authentic South Africa from the characterful oracle of the movement himself, Adi Badenhorst. Shiraz, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca, Grenache and Mourvèdre from the Badenhorst home farm Kalmoesfontein were foot-trodden, wild yeast-fermented and left in closed concrete on their skins for 6 months before pressing off to rest quietly in huge old casks for an additional 16 months. Savoury cherry, wild strawberry, brambles and fine stony dust lure and lead onto a fresh palate, one worn around the edges by time. Cherry continues to lead the show, joined with aged leather, scrubby medicinal-tinged herbs, wildflowers, broken stone and an undercurrent of cured meat and cracked black pepper.

Tannins are fine, slightly grippy and SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 61

NOTED confidently subtle, handily propping up the textured, gently ripe fruit. Medicinal herbs linger on the lengthy finish. All this complexity in a welcome 13% alcohol. Stock up and spread the word about this fantastic value. (TR)

88 BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF THE WOLFTRAP 2014, WESTERN CAPE ($13.50)

Pointed black fruits, thorns and smoked meats rule this Syrah/Mourvèdre/Viognier blend from Franschhoek. Tobacco and tar take over the ripe palate, one supported by smoothed, sticky tannins.

Cassis and bitter black cherry close this out, trailing with cracked black pepper and a large dose of heat. Not shy, this intense red blend offers great value from the Western Cape, and is well suited to char-grilled ribs. (TR)

SPAIN 96 FARIÑA GRAN COLEGIATA CAMPUS 2005, DO TORO ($26.50) Deep crimson, throwing some sediment. Intense and complex nose of plums, prunes, strawberry jam, vanilla, liquorice, coffee. Still appealingly fruity with plum, cherry flavours and a smoky background. Perfectly balanced, to be savoured over the course of a long evening. Decant and drink now. (RL)*

94 BLASÓN DE SAN JUAN CRIANZA 2007, DO RIBERA DEL DOURO ($20.67)

Clear deep garnet. Hypnotic nose of sweet amaretto almond, blackberry and vanilla. Medium-bodied, still quite tannic, warm and fruity with plum and cherry flavours. Best now. Well-matched to goat leg roasted with garlic, mirepoix and a Tempranillo jus. (RL)*

90 TORRES CELESTE CRIANZA 2012, RIBERA DEL DUERO ($22)

The Ribera del Duero often proposes wines in a modern style; this one is more traditional in its approach with dark cherry and vanilla-scented oak notes.

Full-bodied, ripe fruity taste with a back62 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

bone of firm and slightly rough tannins.

The fair acidity provides a good balance in the mid-palate. Already good to drink, it tastes like a very young wine so it will improve 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)

89 BORSÃO TRES PICOS GARNACHA 2013, CAMPO DE BORJA ($22)

Super ripe black fruit, leather, smoked plum, fragrant dark blossoms and ample lashings of pepper fill this full, voluminous Garnacha from Campo de Borja DO. This is the top cuvée of Borsão, drawn from 30- to 65-year-old, head-pruned Garnacha from the slopes of the extinct Moncayo volcanic hills. The combination of older French oak barrels (for 10 months) and stainless steel is apparent, with brisk, bright and sweet dark fruit harnessed by a firm but sticky frame.

Supple and fleshy on the palate, this expressive red finishes with sweet pipe tobacco, bitter blackberry thorns, perfumed violets and potent vanilla. (TR)

88 PAPA LUNA 2012, CALATAYUD ($27)

Old-vine Garnacha is splashed with Syrah and seasoned with Cariñena (Mazuelo) in this ripe and textured wine.

Dark plum, wild cherry, black raspberry, dark florals and anise is drawn across the fuller palate, framed with sticky, grippy tannins. Unfiltered, this lingers with herbal and perfumed scrubby rock rose and stoniness (and a bit of heat). Would be a beauty with herbal grilled pork. (TR)

UNITED STATES 94 MARK HEROLD WHITE LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NAPA ($299)

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dense purple-black colour. Intense coffee bean and blackcurrant nose with creamy oak aromas; full-bodied, beautifully balanced with ripe blackberry, blackcurrant and chocolate flavours enhanced by lively acidity and a tannic lift on the finish. A seamless wine with great mouthfeel. (TA)

92 MARK HEROLD BROWN LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NAPA ($162)

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dense purple colour with a spicy, vanilla oak, mocha chocolate and black plum nose. Full-bodied, dry, richly extracted, juicy plum and blackcurrant fruit with dark chocolate notes and evident but resolved tannins. (TA)

91 FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA DIRECTOR’S CUT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ALEXANDER VALLEY ($34.95)

A full-bodied, fleshy Cabernet from the famed director’s namesake winery. Blackberry, boysenberry, cassis, violets, roasted herbs, cinnamon, smoke and vanilla are all present. Long finish and enough stuffing to age over the next 5 to 7 years. NY strip coated with Montreal steak spice is all that is required for this baby. (ES)

90 WHITEHALL LANE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA ($69.95)

Dark in colour, full-bodied and soft texture; the cassis, raspberry, black pepper, violets, tobacco, vanilla and dark cocoa flow over the taste buds. Great persistency and ready to drink now or over the next 7 years. (ES)

88 HANDCRAFT PETITE SIRAH 2013, CALIFORNIA ($17.95)

A fruit-forward, jammy wine, laced with blueberry, cassis, dark cherry, strawberry, violets, spice and tobacco. Warm on the palate with good tannins and a touch of sweetness. Grilled meats are prime for this wine. (ES)

88 CLINE CELLARS PINOT NOIR 2014, SONOMA COAST ($25.95)

A straightforward Pinot Noir with cherry, plum, spice, red flowers and vanilla attributes. Fine length, suave tannins and ready to drink. (ES)

87 TOM GORE VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, CALIFORNIA ($17)

A crowd-pleaser of a Cabernet Sauvignon with a profile of cassis, blackberry, plum,

mint, cocoa, vanilla and herbs. Ready to drink with a soft personality and lingering fruit-tinged aspect. (ES)

87 PARKER STATION PINOT NOIR 2014, CALIFORNIA ($20)

Pinot Noir from Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are blended into this perfumed, easy Pinot, packed with fragrant and ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry. Sweet wood and light vanilla plumps up the palate, while a riff of light toasty tannins keeps everything in place.

Black plum and sweet cinnamon spicing close out this easy sipper. (TR)

DESSERT 94 DONNAFUGATA BEN RYÉ PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA 2011, SICILY, ITALY ($37.39)

I tasted this magnificent Muscat of Alexandria at the Vancouver Wine Festival. Amber colour with honey, orange peel, raisins, dates and figs on the nose.

Full-bodied with burnt sugar and molasses flavours, beautifully harmonious with enough acidity to balance and give great length. (TA)

aromas of apricot, yeasts and coriander, and a strong floral (lilac) note develops in the glass. Dense, full, it has a powerful mouthfeel but manages to remain fresh on the palate. (GBQc)

UNIBROUE LA MAUDITE DOUBLE ALE, QUEBEC ($6.49/750 ML)

Aged on lees, it exhibits a copper colour with an amber rim. A subtle nose of dark caramel, toasted malt and a touch of coriander will hit your nose, followed by a powerful wet-cereal aroma as it warms up in the glass. It has a rich taste and a velvety texture. The finish is slightly bitter and has a very good length. (GBQc)

NINE LOCKS BREWING COMPANY EXTRA SPECIAL BITTER, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.10/473 ML)

Comes with instructions for use on the can: “Chill, open, repeat.” Reddish amber in colour with nutty, fruity and malty aromas and a light whiff of hops. Robust toasted malt flavour comes with dried fruit, a touch of spice and well-balanced bitterness on the finish. (SW)

NINE LOCKS BREWING COMPANY INDIA PALE ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.10/473 ML)

Medium golden colour with a gorgeous personality of peach compote, honeycomb, spice, apple juice, melon and lime.

Concentrated; the sweetness is offset by brilliant acidity. Long finale. (ES)

Unfiltered and light amber coloured, this IPA offers aromatic citrus and green herbal hop scents with lively citrus and tropical fruit flavours over malty and distinctly bitter hoppiness on the finish. A solid, flavourful brew from another newcomer to the Nova Scotia beer scene. (SW)

BEER

CIDER

UNIBROUE BLANCHE DE CHAMBLY, QUEBEC ($10.99/6-PACK)

WEST AVENUE WILD OAK CIDER 2013, ONTARIO (PRICE VARIES)

92 CAVE SPRING RIESLING ICEWINE 2014, NIAGARA ($49.95/375 ML)

This white beer has an inviting and fresh nose of yeasts, a touch of coriander and a delicate lemony flavour.

Without any bitterness, it has a light taste and each gulp is an invitation to take one more. (GBQc)

UNIBROUE LA FIN DU MONDE TRIPLE ALE, QUEBEC ($6.49/750 ML) Light brown, hazy from the bottle fermentation. This strong beer exhumes

This is a small-batch, limited-edition cider with 6 months of bottle conditioning that’s wild-fermented and aged in older oak barrels. The nose is simply out of this world with sweet cinnamon spice, baked apple. Slightly smoky with cloves, caramel and pear preserves. It has subtle effervescence and a rounded texture on the palate with barrel oak spices, wood tannins, creamy apple notes and complexity through the finish. (RV)

TWIN PINES HAMMER BENT RED, ONTARIO ($10/1 L)

Finished at 6.8% ABV and made from a blend of Red Court Cortland, Northern Spy, Ida Red and Golden Russett apples. Nose of apple skin, citrus and a gentle spritz that settles quickly into a subtle bead. It is rich on the palate with good apple flavours, slight sweetness, well balanced and refreshing through the finish. Try with an oven-roasted pheasant. (RV)

SPIRITS DOMAINE PINNACLE MICRODISTILLERY CHIC CHOC SPICED RUM, QUEBEC ($34)

Light brown with a dark yellow rim.

Heady, complex infused nose (the mix of herbs includes peppery green alder, pine forest spikenard, white-rod berries, lovage root, sweet gale seeds and wild angelica). Conifer resin and herbal notes develop in the glass. The fresh taste counterbalances the alcohol heat in the soft, silky mid-palate leading to a dry, compact finish. The name comes from the Chic-Choc Mountains, source of the herbs used for the infusion.

Worth discovering. (GBQc)

SOCIAL LITE LEMON CUCUMBER MINT, ONTARIO ($10/4-PACK)

Made unsweetened with all-natural flavours and artisan vodka, this has appealing cucumber and mint aromas on the nose with a freshness that draws you in. It’s lightly carbonated on the palate with vibrant acidity and drinks like a wine infused with fresh garden mint and cucumbers. I absolutely love that there is no cloying sweetness. (RV)

SOCIAL LITE LIME GINGER, ONTARIO ($10/4-PACK)

Unlike anything on the market, with its fresh nose of lime and ginger, and soft carbonation and vibrancy on both the nose and palate. It’s like someone served you up a fine vodka on ice and simply squeezed some lime and fresh-ground ginger into your glass. Gotta love it! (RV) SEPTEMBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 63

DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA

BEING INFLUENCED Historically, Sicily has always held a strategic position in the Mediterranean. As a result, this island sitting adjacent to the toe of Italy’s boot seems to have been occupied by almost everyone, from the Greeks to the Romans to the Spanish to the Moors. These varying influences are reflected in the architecture, cuisine and even in how different municipalities were planned and built throughout the region.

Sicily also has a long history with respect to wine production. It produces more wine that any other region in Italy, but the focus traditionally was on quantity as opposed to quality. Due to the heat and intensity of the sun, there was an abundance of dark and overly alcoholic wines being produced, shipped out and blended in wines throughout Europe to add colour and intensity.

The movement to an emphasis on quality really began in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Around the same time, many producers planted international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Unfortunately, often these international varieties were blended with native grapes and, although some good wines were 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

produced, in most instances the true character of the native grapes was overwhelmed. Frequently, the mono-varietal wines made with international grapes were nothing to be excessively proud of.

Better vineyard management and winemaking techniques ultimately directly resulted in better quality and more balanced wines. More recently, a renewed interest in Sicily’s native grape varieties combined with improved vineyard and winery practices has transformed what were historically rather lacklustre wines to quality wines that are interesting, distinct, flavourful and in many instances, refreshing.

While there are international grapes that can do well in Sicily, particularly Syrah (of particular note are the excellent

and elegant Syrah wines grown by Peter Vinding-Diers on the southeast part of the island), the most interesting wines are produced using native grape varieties.

Recommended wineries are included.

GRILLO

Particularly common on the western part of the island, this white grape is heat- and drought-tolerant and makes wines that tend to be fresh, lemony, crisp and herbal.

The grape is a result of a natural crossing of the Catarratto Bianco Lucido and Moscato di Alessandria (Zibibbo) grapes.

Tasca d’Almerita, Ceuso, Feudo Disisa and Feudo Arancio are among those that produce good examples. Also, the best-quality Marsala tends to have higher percentages of Grillo.

CARRICANTE

This white grape finds its home on the slopes of Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest active volcano (on the northeast part of the island), and forms the main component of the Etna Bianco wines. The grape loves mountainous altitudes and tends towards laser focus, racy and vibrant, citrus, green apple, anise, bright acidity and minerality. The wines can also have a wonderful mouth-watering salinity and tend to age well, akin to good dry Rieslings, developing petrol aromas with time. Producers to look for include Benanti, Graci, Pietradolce, Gulfi and Planeta.

INZOLIA

Referred to as Inzolia in Sicily, the variety’s official name is Ansonica (as it is referred to in Tuscany where it also grows).

A naturally tannic white grape that has naturally low acidity, it is best picked early to maintain acid for fresher-style wines (which, with better viticultural practices, more producers are doing).

CATARRATTO

The Catarratto Bianco grape and its biotypes (for convenience sake will be just referred to as Catarrattos) are grown over most of Sicily. The best examples tend to show fresh herbs, tropical fruit and citrus. Quality can range significantly as the grape can be an abundant producer. Donnafugata and Fazio make good quality examples.

MOSCATO DI ALESSANDRIA

Also known as Zibibbo, the grape is used to produce both dry and sweet wines. The best known are probably the sweet, airdried passitos from the island of Pantelleria. The dry wines tend to be weighty with aromas and flavours of golden raisins, apricot, ginger and dried herbs while the sweet wines tend towards burnt orange, fig, caramel, honey and marmalade. The best sweet wines have ample acidity to balance the residual sugar. Look for Donnafugata and Coste Ghirlanda.

NERO D’AVOLA

Sicily’s main red grape grows all over the island save the northeast corner, although it appears to have some of its best expressions around Pachino and Noto in the southeast. The grape grows in different conditions and will express its site, resulting in wines that range from fresh and elegant to full and structured. Typical characteristics are red berry, spice, aromatic herbs and a natural acidity. There are many good examples including those from Gulfi, COS, Ceuso, Donnafugata, Planeta and Santa Anastasia. Nero d’Avola and Frappato are the grapes blended in Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine.

FRAPPATO

Tends to be fragrant, fresh, floral, juicy, slightly herbal with a vinous liveliness.

The grape excels in the southeast corner of Sicily due in large part to the soils, which consist of a top layer of loosely packed red sand that is rich in iron with both hard and soft limestone below. The vines’ roots are able to penetrate deep in search of water.

The result is highly perfumed, floral wines with elegant tannins. Frappato is blended with Nero d’Avola in Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines, but there are also excellent monovarietal examples produced: COS, Arianna Occhipinti and Valle dell’Acate.

NERELLO MASCALESE

The main red grape grown on Mount Etna loves mountainous altitudes. The wines tend to be light in colour but big in flavour, with sour red cherry, fresh herbs, fresh minerality and quite structured. The perfect example of a wine that doesn’t need to be dark and weighty to be delicious. Blended with Nerello Cappuccio in Etna Rosso wines.

Nerello Cappuccio tends to be darker in colour and have softer tannins, thus exhibiting characteristics to contrast and complement those of Nerello Mascalese. Seek out Pietradolce, Graci, Cottanera and Benanti. ×

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AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER

EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN WINE, LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IN LIFE IT SEEMS, IS SUBJECT TO FADS AND FASHIONS. Ever since the first man or woman pur-

posefully trod on a bunch of grapes to crush and ferment them, the style of wines and how they are made has been subject both to the changing whims of the winemaker and propelled by the tastes of the ultimate consumer.

The earliest wines were made in clay amphorae that were buried in the ground where they were sealed and left for months or years.

Shards of these containers with grape pits stuck to them were found in Georgia and carbon-dated back 6,000 years before Christ. These containers were called qvevri.

Winemakers today have adopted the qvevri to produce natural wines — wines made without recourse to chemicals and with minimum technological intervention.

The next revolutionary advance in the wine world after clay amphorae was the use of cement tanks to ferment and store wine rather than huge oak vats. In the 1970s and ‘80s winemakers, moved away from these cement vessels in favour of stainless-steel tanks, which were easier to clean and could be temperature-controlled during fermentation.

Now winemakers are going back to cement tanks — not only the huge epoxy-lined tanks in various shapes, but also the portable cement tanks in the shape of eggs.

Then some winemakers, like Mondavi in Napa, forsook stainless steel and returned to wood fermenters to help oxygenate the wine.

Then there was the new oak phenomenon. Winemakers in the New World looked to Bordeaux, and they saw the producers of the great châteaux leaving their fine clarets in new oak for 18 months; so they emulated their example. Except the quality of the fruit and the tannin structure produced in climates significantly warmer than Bordeaux was not the same; and even moreso when the New World wanted to replicate what the Burgundians were doing with their white wines. The result was Napa lumberyard wines.

The other aspect of fashion in wine is the changing tastes of the consuming public. Currently the liquor boards are awash with Pinot Grigio and Prosecco. 20 years ago, Pouilly-Fuissé and Spanish Cava would have been the popular choices. 20 years before that, the wine everyone was drinking — and decorating their lampshades with — was Mateus Rosé. Then there was Mouton Cadet and Liebfraumilch.

66 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2016

Which just goes to show that wine styles have their day.

They may even enjoy a second go-round with the next generation. The same thing happens with wine regions: Australia was huge in the 1990s; at the turn of the century, Chile enjoyed its time in the sun; now it’s Argentina and Spain’s time to relish the embrace of a fickle public.

Yet with the capricious nature of consumer loyalties, there are some wines that defy the changing times. I’m talking about classic wines such as white Burgundy and Champagne.

Like the Chanel suit and the Volkswagen Beetle, they haven’t changed. I could have added red Burgundy were it not for the proponents of the controversial Guy Accad method: a twoweek-long pre-fermentation cold soak under sulphur dioxide to extract more colour and oxygenate the must. Now mercifully no longer practised.

While Port and Sherry are not enjoying the popularity they once did, these fortified beverages have not compromised their style. One day they, too, will be rewarded when consumers discover them again.

Talking about Port, in the Douro Valley, the best wines are still foot-trodden by teams of men in lagars. So, who knows: maybe foot-treading will become the next big thing in the wine world. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

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