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QUENCH MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2017 COLOUR YOUR WORLD × 22 2017 IS GREEN! HOW CAN YOU USE THIS COLOUR TO CHANGE YOUR DAY TO DAY LIFE. BY LISA HOEKSTRA EDGE OF BITTERNESS × 25 THE OVERPOWERING NATURE OF AMARONE. BY TIM PAWSEY KNOW FOR REAL × 30 WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT PORTUGAL? YOU MIGHT BE SURPRISED. BY MICHAEL PINKUS
25 42
BEYOND MARITIME × 32 HOW THE MARITIME CLIMATE AFFECTS SOME OF THE MOST COVETED WINE REGIONS IN THE WORLD. BY TREVE RING KNOCKING ON NAPA’S DOOR × 36 MY LAST TRIP TO CALIFORNIA WAS LIFE AND DEATH ... AND A LOT OF GREAT WINE. BY TOD STEWART THINK SMALL × 42 NOT EVERYHTING NEEDS TO BE BIG. SOMETIMES SMALL IS MORE, AND YUMMY. BY DUNCAN HOLMES WASTED × 46 WE CAN FEED THE WORLD WITH THE FOOD WE WASTE. BY JOANNE WILL FIVE THINGS TO GROW × 48 THIS SPRING, DRESS UP YOUR DISHES BY GROWING 5 ASIAN HERBS. BY GAIL KAVANAGH
DEPARTMENTS SUMMERTIME AND THE LIVING IS EASY × 50 THIS SUMMER, I’M GOING TO UNCOMPLICATE MY LIFE AND MAKE ROOM FOR THE THINGS I REALLY ENJOY. BY NANCY JOHNSON
IN PRAISE OF THE ISO × 66 CAN A GLASS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? YOU CAN ONLY REALLY KNOW BY EXPERIMENTING. BY TONY ASPLER
NOTED × 52 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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QUENCH IS ABOUT THE SMALL THINGS THAT MAKE LIFE GREAT AND THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM. It’s an adage we’ve fashioned over the years and
it’s one that we push through every page of the magazine, tweet, frame of each YouTube video, and more ... Now a small thing can be as simple as a bottle of wine for some and a yacht for others. In its simplest terms, it’s that little thing we covet. A restaurant find we try not to
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
Sarah Parniak, in her article ‘Putting it all together’ [April issue] put into words a thought I’ve been mulling over for quite some time now — and she did so quite eloquently. As craft beer raises standards and perceptions to a more serious, connoisseur level and winemaking ‘loosens up’, as Sarah says, I’m finding that brewers and winemakers are pulling the best of each other’s stereotypes into their industries. Beer can be nuanced and serious. Wine can be fun and casual. A quote that really stuck with me from Sarah’s article was from Paul Hadfield of Spinnakers: ‘From a social perspective it’s not about the alcohol, it’s about flavour and experience — and that also really fits with where food is at today.’ I’m excited to taste and sample the new creations that winemakers and brewers develop in the coming years, especially if their focus continues to be about the experience and flavours, no matter what form it comes in, even if it’s a beer-wine. Aaron Saunders, Ottawa You know, I had absolutely no clue bitters play a role in human digestion or that Jäger is a bitter. So, yeah, thank you Quench and Tim Pawsey for educating me so that I don’t look like an idiot next time someone gives me Jäger when a cocktail recipe calls for bitters (yes…. that happened … sorry mom). Jennifer Hall, email
divulge the location to, a wine region we visited that we shout from the roof tops. It can even be that tiny yet smart gadget on your wrist you trot out every time someone ask you the time. Each of us has our own small thing. For me, it’s a fallen chocolate soufflé cake recipe I hide away in the cupboard. Many have tasted it but few have seen how it is made or even its ingredients. My small thing is yummy. This issue is dedicated to some small things we should all know about. A continuation of last April’s Next Big Thing issue, you’ll find tips on making carpaccio and other recipes that are not only easy to make but quick to serve. We look at Amarone, still wine from Portugal and the island wine regions we sometimes forget. We go in-depth into the issue of food waste and how some are making gourmet dishes from the things we throw away. So what are your small things? Visit www.quench.me and let us know. We’re always looking for something new to discover.
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CONTRIBUTORS Treve Ring is a global wine writer and editor, wine judge and speaker. A certified sommelier, WSET diploma holder, French wine scholar and Sherry instructor, she is based on Vancouver Island, though is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard.
Katia Jean Paul began writing in earnest on the blogosphere, ruminating on all things sartorial from the gaudy frocks of street-style clotheshorses to the merits of the high-heel shoe. Since then, she parlayed her proclivity for cogitation and architectural heels into articles, features and interviews spanning art, architecture, food, style and design for both print and online publications, including NUVOmagazine.com, readersdigest.ca and montrealgazette.com. While she’s a minimalist dresser at heart, she happily lends her palate to any and all experiments of the culinary kind.
Michael Pinkus has a love affair with wine that goes back over 20 years and continues to this day as an award-winning journalist and wine judge. He is a freelance writer whose articles have appeared in a number of national and international magazines. He also publishes MichaelPinkusWineReview.com (formerly OntarioWineReview.com), and is a past-President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada.
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MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 7
Q SCHOOL
HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? Edible plants are, surprisingly, everywhere. Unfortunately, they aren’t everywhere in our grocery stores. There’s a simple solution, of course — grow them yourself! Here are a few edible plants from near and far you should try planting this spring.
RED RUBIN BASIL
A member of the sweet basil family, red rubin basil is a reddish-purple herb with a stronger flavour than the sweet basil found at the grocery store. It can be interchanged for common basil in most recipes, adding colour and richer flavour. Red rubin basil is an easy herb to grow — give it a minimum of six hours a day in the full sun, with consistent warm temperatures and well-drained soil. Compact and vigorous, red rubin basil grows to be between 18 and 24 inches, staying healthy and vibrant year-round. It adds a nice pop of colour on your window sill or in your garden. Harvest only the mature leaves; ensure you leave at the very least one-third of the foliage so the plant can recover between harvests. Adding nutrient-rich fertilizer will help it recover faster. Quick tip: pinch the tips of your plants and trim them up a bit so that it grows into a sturdier, bushier plant. You can use the trimmings while you wait for the leaves to grow.
PINEAPPLE SAGE
This little seasonal treat comes from the high-altitude regions of Guatemala and Mexico. A member of the mint family, it is named for the pineapple aroma found in its leaves. Pineapple sage has many uses: dried leaves and flowers give a delicate, fruity note to potpourri; dried stems are great for wreaths; flowers and leaves both go well in herbal teas, jams, smoothies and more; flowers make an excellent garnish or pop of colour in your salad. Growing to be about three or four feet tall and nearly as wide, pineapple sage blooms cardinal-red flowers in the late
8 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
summer and fall. It needs sandy soil — find a plot in the sun, preferably on the top of a rise. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, behind smaller plants. Water consistently for the first couple of weeks after planting, then leave them be unless there is a drought. You can cut pineapple sage freely, from the buds on the lateral shoots (which grow in abundance) to the green aromatic leaves.
TOMATILLOS
Tiny green tomatoes about the size of a large cherry tomato, tomatillos are also known as the Mexican husk tomato or tomato verde. But they are actually related to the Cape gooseberry. Tart, refreshing fruits, they have a papery husk that should be removed before eating. Tomatillos are used in everything from salsa to chicken and more. They can be found in lots of Latin cuisine, including their starring role in salsa verde. Tomatillos do best in a summer garden — choose a sunny location and enrich the soil with compost. Keep soil moist throughout the summer. Bury the two-thirds of the plants, spacing them about three feet apart. Don’t forget to give them a trellis or cage, as the vines will need a bit of support as they grow. The leaves are reminiscent of eggplant (so keep that in mind if you also have eggplants). You must plant two or more tomatillo plants in order for fruit to grow, and each plant will produce about a pound of fruit. Harvest the tomatillo when the fruit is green and the husk filled out; if the husk is split and the fruit yellow or purple, it is overripe — you can still use them, but they aren’t as good as the perfectly ripe versions. ×
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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
THE ULTIMATE FAST FOOD Start grilling season with this flavourful kebab, a favourite Greek fast food. You can marinate chopped zucchini, mushrooms, onions and bell peppers to thread on the skewers as well, just double the marinade. Serve with rice or pita bread and a salad of tomatoes, Kalamata olives, red onions and feta cheese drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar.
PORK SOUVLAKI WITH TZATZIKI SAUCE SERVES 4
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp dried oregano 1 large or 2 small pork tenderloins, cut into cubes
1. In a large ceramic or glass bowl, mix olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, garlic and oregano. Add pork tenderloin and marinate in the fridge overnight. 2. Thread pork on skewers. Discard marinade. Grill or broil about 7 to 10 minutes, turning as needed. TZATZIKI SAUCE
2 cups plain Greek yogurt 1/2 cucumber, peeled, grated, salted for 30 minutes, rinsed and wrung dry in clean towel 1/2 tsp salt 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tbsp fresh dill, minced Dash hot sauce, such as tabasco Mix in bowl. Serve with souvlaki. MATCH: Enjoy with a Chardonnay or Chablis. ×
× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/
MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 11
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
QUADRILATERAL CLUSTER OF SPHERES LIKE MANY PASTRY CHEFS, DINARA KASKO’S SACCHARINE CREATIONS COMBINE FLAVOURFUL, LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS, CULINARY KNOW-HOW AND A TOUCH OF WHIMSY. The world of haute patisserie,
however, is well known for its offbeat approach to sweet cuisine, and like her ilk, the Ukrainian cordon bleu doles out eccentricity in spades. Among her gustatory confections: a glazed lemon meringue cake in the shape of a quadrilateral cluster of spheres; a hexagonal “concrete” monument with a spongey chocolate centre; and a brownie cake with caramelized white chocolate mousse, blueberry and blackcurrant confit, redcurrant and berry glaze encased in isomalt. There’s a clear running theme across Kasko’s pastry art: angular minimalism informed by architecture, design and the many principles between these two disciplines. From the Voronoi diagram to triangulation and biomimicry, one’s computational tool is Kasko’s aesthetic device. As a former architecture designer, the up-and-coming chef naturally gravitates towards geometric composition. A graduate of Kharkov State University of Civil Engineering and Architec12 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
ture, Kasko worked for several years as an architect designer and 3D visualizer in the Netherlands. In 2013, she began baking in her spare time. After mastering the basics, Kasko sought to make more intricate desserts, and in doing so, combined her love of design and architectural acumen with pastry creation. The resulting delicacies are not unlike scale models of architecture, only edible and often made with Kasko’s own silicone moulds. “I usually start with sketches on paper,” says the pastry artist. “In terms of my own moulds, I first make them on my computer. Even at this stage, I can create the entire scale, proportions; I can vary the colour, texture and choose decorations for the finished product. “The next step is to print the 3D master model on the printer and post-process it. Finally, I cast the silicone mould.” In the short time since discovering pastry art, Kasko, largely self-taught, has found her work has taken her to various countries throughout Europe and Asia, where the pastry artist has taught more than a dozen masterclasses. She has also apprenticed and commingled with some of haute patisserie’s veteran players,
including renowned pastry chef Pierre Hermé. As for her moulds, they have gone into mass production through Silikomart, after Kasko’s innovative desserts caught the Italian brand’s eye. With desserts so visually confounding, resembling works of art or scale buildings, it is easy to imagine that Kasko’s cakes are anything but, let alone edible. However, she is not one to forgo taste for presentation. “Of course the appearance of the product is important,” says Kasko. “But the taste is more important, because no matter how beautiful a cake is, if it does not surprise you, if it leaves you indifferent, you will not want to try it again.” To that end, Kasko uses traditional ingredients plucked from her home garden alongside more exotic fruits, quality chocolates and cheeses. The pastry chef now looks to recreate real works of architecture, and down the line, Kasko hopes to have an art space all her own to push her culinary experiments further. “Inspiration can come from anywhere: art, music, photos, style, clothes or furniture, it can be an artist or even a natural object,” says Kasko. “There are a lot of ideas that we can either give an external appearance to or house inside.” ×
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THE SALMON CURE
Growing up in a European household meant that breakfasts were non-traditional American fare. We didn’t often have pancakes, waffles or cereals; these were reserved for vacations or a friend’s house. What we did have, though, were cold cuts, open-faced sandwiches and smoked fish. I never thought much of it until I got married. This is when it became apparent that breakfast at my house was not the norm for everyone. My wife was used to the cereal (in fact, she used to eat it for every meal when I was out of town). She has even gotten me used to these types of meals as well, but that doesn’t mean I have ever lost the desire or taste for those other items. As part of that European breakfast, cured salmon (gravlax) and other smoked fish have always been my favourites. Getting smoked salmon or fish for one person is not easy though. I decided to challenge myself to see if I could cure some fish at home. What I learned is that curing fish is much simpler than I had imagined, and the basic ingredients were minimal (although I suppose it couldn’t be overly complicated since this has been a way to preserve foods for millennia). In essence, all it takes is a good amount of salt and some sugar: salt draws out moisture and inhibits bacteria from growing (the bad kind, anyways), while sugar is an energy source for good bacterias (microbes); all the other ingredients are there for flavour. I picked the flavours that I like and items that typically go well with any fish dish, but try out any combination of items that you enjoy together. No flavour will be overly powerful as it has only a day or two to penetrate the meat, and therefore doesn’t go beyond the surface. Don’t be afraid to try bold flavours. Now that I can make my own cured salmon at home, I hope my kids will realize that this is a great breakfast. 14 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
SALMON GRAVLAX BAGEL 1 1/2 lbs salmon filet (skin off) 1/4 cup sea salt 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup dill, chopped (2 tbsp reserved for garnish) Zest from 1 lemon 1 oz tequila 2 poppyseed bagels 1/4 cup European cream cheese 2 tbsp horseradish cream (optional) Lemon juice, to taste 1. Place salmon filet in a glass container large enough that it can lay flat. Cover both sides with salt, sugar, dill, lemon zest and tequila. Pat both sides well to press salt and sugar into the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. 2. Remove salmon and rinse under cold water to remove excess salt. Pat dry and slice thinly. 3. Slice the bagels in half (warm up or toast if not fresh). Apply cream cheese and horseradish (if using) evenly to all pieces. 4. Lay salmon over cream cheese and sprinkle with reserved dill evenly. Drizzle lemon juice over top. ×
DISCOVERY BY TERISA GREEN
Make it cold AT FIRST A BIT OF A NON-SEQUITUR, THE COLD BREW METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE, OR MORE ACCURATELY COFFEE CONCENTRATE, IS STARTING TO COME INTO ITS OWN, AND FOR GOOD REASON — IT MAKES A GREAT TASTING CUP OF COFFEE. The up sides of the cold
filter method (dominated by manufacturer Toddy but a similar system is available from Filtron) are many: 2/3 less acid, 2/3 less caffeine, no oils, a concentrate that can last for a week, an individual strength cup, reusable filters (without the paper taste), wonderful flavour, hot or cold. The down sides of the cold filter method: less acid, less caffeine, no oils, no brewing aroma, and a 12-hour process taking up space in the refrigerator. Let’s examine this method in more detail. The method of brewing cold coffee is not new. In fact, very little pertaining to coffee is new. In the March 13th, 1847, issue of Scientific American (Vol. 2, No. 25), the following appears: “Essence of Coffee. Among all the new inventions and discoveries that are astonishing the world, and the universal Yankee nation in particular, we have heard of none which promises to be more useful and acceptable, at least to ladies than ‘The Essence of Coffee,’ which is now offered to the lovers of that beverage. It is the genuine stuff, and you have only to put a tea-spoon full into a cup of water containing the usual complement of sugar and milk, and you have a cup of superior coffee without further trouble … The article is put up in bottles, at a low price.” While the roots of the cold brewing may go back to the Dutch traders or the ancient ancestors of modern Peruvians, the method has only recently begun to be embraced in the specialty
coffee culture of today, although it’s been known to the coffee elite for some time. In fact, MSNBC reported in August of 2004 that Seattle’s Best had for years been using the Toddy system in their back rooms to produce, not only a smooth and flavourful coffee, but something novel as well. Because the coffee grounds (of medium to coarse grind) are steeped in cold water, the oils and acidity are never released (since heat is necessary for that process). Similarly, less caffeine results in the finished product as well. While many fans of the cold brew technique count these as pros, especially coffee drinkers who have enough stomach acid already, the lack of acid produces a coffee with less bite on the tongue, less brightness, in terms of coffee tasting. While the oils contribute to the overall flavour of hot brewed coffee, they have also been shown to create higher levels of bad cholesterol. Similarly, for people who don’t need a morning jolt but could do with a smaller pick-me-up, the lower caffeine is a blessing. The lack of instant gratification, due to the 12-hour steep time, means some extra planning but it pays out over time. The concentrate that is created can be stored very well for a week in the refrigerator and makes several cups of coffee, at a moment’s notice, iced or hot (add water in a ratio of three parts water to one part concentrate as a start), and its strength is infinitely customizable. Plus, if you don’t have a grinder, you can rush home from your local roaster with freshly ground and freshly roasted coffee and use an entire one pound bag. Add to that the portability and price (around $35) of a cold brewing unit and it’s easy to see why the popularity of this method of brewing coffee is on the rise. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 15
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Water of life Probably the best cocktail I’ve ever had was in New York, at a tiny little bar called Amor y Amargo that specializes in bitterness. I like a bitter drink as much as the next person, but that night, I chose the Scandi Gibson, a simple little Martini-esque drink that’s made with aquavit instead of gin. In the comfort of my own home bar, I tried to recreate its greatness, but with no luck. Eventually, I realized the problem — the Scandi Gibson is made with Solståndet, a crisp Dutch malted aquavit that’s actually a cross between genever and Danish aquavit. The bottle in my liquor cabinet bore no resemblance whatsoever to Solståndet. “Aquavit is not aquavit,” says Jacob Grier, a bartender, drinks writer and aquavit specialist at a Scandinavian spirits seminar held at the San Antonio Cocktail Conference in January. “So it’s really important to follow a cocktail recipe precisely and use the aquavit that it calls for.” The good news is that Grier says we don’t have to pay too much attention to the base grain as we would with, say, a whiskey’s mash bill. Grier advises that we approach the category the same way we would with gin and focus, instead, on the infused flavours — typically caraway, dill, juniper, fennel, liquorice and coriander. Danish aquavit tends to be heavier on the dill, but unfortunately there are no hard and fast rules, since variations are determined by the individual distilleries themselves. And it’s only about to get more confusing with the surge in aquavit production outside of Scandinavia. Small-batch aquavit is now being made at craft distilleries all across North America, in states as disparate as Wisconsin, North Dakota and Texas, but especially in the Pacific Northwest, where there are at least seven aquavit brands in Washington and Oregon alone. Canada’s in the game, too, with three being produced in British Columbia. For straight-sipping, most people serve unaged aquavit ice-cold, a move Grier suggests is best achieved by keeping the bottle in the freezer, since it develops a rich viscosity when it’s properly chilled. It is, of course, the perfect foil to gravlax, pickled herring and sausage, since it was designed to accompany these savoury dishes. Aquavit is almost always served with food in Scandinavia.
× Visit quench.me/mixed/ for more drink recipes
When it comes to cocktails, brave people who like to experiment should start by swapping aquavit for vodka or gin — it’s hard to go wrong with an aquavit Caesar. The next step should be playing around with aquavit in Collins or Negroni recipes. Or, for the really ambitious, give Thor Paulson’s Den Kloster cocktail a shot. Paulson, who recently retired from the bar industry to pursue medical school, designed this when he was managing the bar at Vancouver’s The Diamond. He uses locally crafted, award-winning Långbord Akvavit, made at Long Table Distillery.
DEN KLOSTER 1 1/2 2/3 3/4 1/6 1/2
oz Long Table Långbord Akvavit (aquavit) oz yellow Chartreuse oz freshly squeezed grapefruit juice oz freshly squeezed lemon juice oz honey water* Grapefruit peel
Mix ingredients in cocktail shaker. Shake with ice and finestrain into a chilled cocktail glass. Express grapefruit oils over drink and discard. *Honey water can be made by mixing equal parts honey and hot water and allowing to cool. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 17
MUST TRY BY JENNIFER ALLEN
Sliced to perfection IN 1950, A WOMAN WALKED INTO HARRY’S BAR IN VENICE, ITALY, AND REQUESTED A MEAL BUT SHE HAD VERY SPECIFIC DIETARY REQUIREMENTS: HER DOCTOR WANTED HER TO ONLY EAT RAW MEAT. Somewhat
taken aback by this unusual request, the chef at Harry’s Bar rose to the challenge and presented the woman with the world’s first carpaccio. The dish was very thinly sliced raw beef arranged in a circular pattern on the plate, and served with a mustard dressing. The owner was so thrilled that he instantly named it carpaccio, after the famous Italian painter because the colours were reminiscent of his art. Carpaccios have evolved since the 1950’s, and the traditional combination of thinly sliced raw beef and mustard dressing have been politely set aside in favour of raw lamb, raw fish, fruits and vegetables. Proteins and sauces can now be found in combinations like yellow fin tuna dressed with a sesame oil and Thai basil dressing for a southeast Asian flavour or a cured ham and goat cheese carpaccio with a sherry and olive oil dressing for a taste of Spain. For those less adventurous who still want an experience, there are myriad vegetable and fruit combinations to entice your palate. Zucchini carpaccio with a lemon olive oil dressing, or melon carpaccio with a melon liqueur drizzle over top, are just a couple of examples. Despite the evolution of carpaccio dishes, a few things remain constant. The protein, vegetables or fruits are always sliced paper thin and are arranged in a pattern on a chilled plate. There is always a sauce of some kind, be it oil based or an aioli, and the raw meat carpaccios are frequently served with micro greens or other leafy greens to elevate the flavour of the dish. While you can certainly find carpaccios on the menus of fine dining establishments, the intrepid home cook can also prepare this stunning dish with a few simple tips. Restaurants rely on 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
professional slicers to slice meat paper thin, but most home kitchens don’t have this kind of tool. Instead, take your meat and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and then put it in the freezer for about 20 minutes. You want it to be very cold but not yet frozen. Make sure your knife is very sharp. A dull knife will just make a mess of a fine cut of meat. Slice the meat as thinly as you can; if the slices aren’t thin enough, you can place the meat between two sheets of plastic wrap and lightly pound it with the flat side of a meat tenderizer mallet. Be gentle though, else the meat may tear. Less adventurous home cooks may want to start their carpaccio education with chilled fruits or vegetables. These dishes make stunning and refreshing starters to summer evening dinner parties. They can also be plated ahead of time and left to chill in the refrigerator in order to cut down on last minute preparations. No matter how you slice it, carpaccio in any form is a visually pleasing and tasty dish. Let your creativity soar, perhaps you’ll come up with the next greatest combination of a thinly sliced ingredient and dressing! ×
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Dust off your boots and kick up your heels as you explore the history, experience culture, and sample the best local fare we have to offer. We are a little hipster, a smidge country, all about nature and a whole lot of fun! This ain’t your parent’s bush party! FREE Admission, sample tickets may be purchased for alcoholic beverage samples. Live entertainment will be provided by a variety of local and cultural talent, food trucks, axe throwing, interpretive centres, and more...
Skip the lines Tickets for Beer, Wine & Spirits $5 each or $25 for 5 tickets & a commemorative glass Get your tickets now at twentyvalley.ca
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The Great Canadian Wine and Culinary Adventure
50+ WINERIES AND CRAFT BREWERIES • 30 CHEFS
Meet the winemakers, brewmasters, chefs, farmers and food producers responsible for the innovation and quality evolution of the Canadian craft beverage and culinary industries.
NORTHERNLANDS IN FOLDER MAY 2 – 6, 2017
S H AW C O N F E R E N C E C E N T R E E D M O N T O N , A L B E R TA
This year’s festival welcomes Italy as a featured country. In support of the High School Culinary Challenge & Edmonton Community Foundation Grateful Palate Fund
VISIT WWW.NORTHERNLANDS.CA FOR TICKETS AND DETAILS @NORTHERNLNDS
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Participating chefs include:
Vikram Vij
Jacob Pelletier
Jakob Lutes
Daniel Costa
John Jackson and Connie DeSousa
Mandel Hitzer
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
What is a corkage fee? Navigating a restaurant wine list can be an exercise in extremes. Depending on where you decide to dine, selection can be over the top to barely average. That goes for cost as well, especially at those restos that pour wines not available through your local retail channels, which makes estimating their markups one guessing game shy of The Price is Right. Any eatery worth its reputation will have a sommelier to help guide something into your glass, but if you’re one of those folks with very particular tastes (i.e. picky), corkage means a restaurant lets you BYOB into their dining room and charges you a fee for the privilege. Legal in Quebec since the Earth was cooling, corkage is now cool in most provinces. But as with every good thing in life, there are rules. No one lets you prance in with a box of wine or a bottle of Château Homemade, and they shouldn’t. While I take issue with the corkage fees some joints charge, many I’ve frequented ask nothing earlier in the week or if you’re toting a bottle of something local. Corkage shouldn’t be looked at as a chance to save a buck. I see it as an opportunity to dip into my cellar to enjoy a wine whose time has come at a place where someone else cooks my meal.
Why is France’s Bordeaux region divided into a Left Bank and a Right Bank?
With all due respect to my friends in Bordeaux, they have a little bit of a superiority complex even in their own backyard. Not that they came up with the left/right divide on their own. We can thank Mother Nature for that. The lines are drawn along the
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
banks of two rivers (the Garonne to the left and the Dordogne to the right) that wind their way through the region and into the larger Gironde estuary that leads to the sea. All that running water provides Bordeaux with a textbook Atlantic climate and terroir that produces some of the finest juice to ever see a bottle. It’s a perfect storm of excellence that nourishes both grapes and egos. If France thinks it produces the best wines in the world, Bordeaux thinks it makes the best wines in France with the Left Bank considering its output the best in Bordeaux. The Left is the home of all those fancy châteaux and Cabernet Sauvignon, the king of the red grapes and the leader in the Left’s sublime blends. Back in 1855, Emperor Napoleon III (that other Napoleon’s nephew) asked the palates of the day to compile a list of the best wines from Bordeaux to show off at that year’s Exposition Universelle in Paris. All but one were from the Left Bank’s Médoc sub-region. With nearly no edits since its inception, that list continues to float over Bordeaux like a big balloon full of really hot air. For the most part, Right Bank winemakers shrug off the hype around the 1855 classifications. While its historic sub-region of Saint-Émilion has created its own ranking system, many of its best wines remain unclassified. Way more laid-back and architecturally understated, its vineyards focus on Merlot-led blends, making them universally more appealing for early drinking than their cousins from the Left Bank. That doesn’t mean they all come cheap. Some of the most expensive wines on the planet come from Right Bank producers. Though its foundation is a separation by geography, perpetuated by a “friendly” rivalry, you’ve got to admit that the premise behind the banks of Bordeaux is one heck of a marketing concept. In a region known for its complexity, even the most neophyte oenophile knows left from right. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 21
COLOUR YOUR by Lisa Hoekstra
2017 is green! But not with envy. No, it’s greenery — the tangy yellow-green of plant life and nature that infuses us with the sense that all is well and nothing bad will happen.
For the past 17 years, the Pantone Color Institute has selected a “Color of the Year” — a symbolic colour that represents what they perceive as the main theme, mood or attitude for the world, based on current events, industry trends and global culture. Their choice for this year is based largely on the tumultuous nature of 2016. “Greenery bursts forth in 2017 to provide us with the hope we collectively yearn for amid a complex social and political landscape,” says Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Satisfying our growing desire to rejuvenate, revitalize and unite, Greenery symbolizes the reconnection we seek with nature, one another and a larger purpose.” The symbolism of the colour green is obvious. It’s a colour many associate with springtime, when the world comes back to life after frigid, white winter. Pantone’s Greenery, in particular, “speaks to our desire to express, explore, experiment and reinvent, imparting a sense of buoyancy,” said Eiseman. “Through its reassuring yet assertive vibrancy, Greenery offers us self-assurance and boldness 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
to live life on our own terms, during a time when we are redefining what makes us successful and happy.” Which sounds pretty. It really does. But how does Greenery accomplish this? How does it “reassure” us and “rejuvenate, revitalize and unite” us? “We have a natural relationship with colour,” says Elaine Ryan, interior designer, colour expert, creator of the Elaine Ryan Color Bars and author of Color Your Life and Transform Your Home from Nice to Knockout — two books that focus on using colour psychology to create perfect environments. “Living with the colours we love has a profound effect upon us psychologically, in that often although we’re not aware of why we have a feeling of well-being when we enter a room.” Ryan attributes our reactions to colour memory. “As our bodies have muscle memories, our minds revert to and remember certain colours we were wearing a time long ago in our past, or the person we were speaking to wore a hat or a tie the colour of which remains with us,” says Ryan. “Colour memories have more effect upon us than we consciously realize.”
Working as an interior designer, she has had to identify and avoid or apply specific colours to ensure the final results evoke positive memories for her clients. “After working for some years on various solutions to this dilemma, I developed a method to help my clients discover the colours they will be happiest living with now,” she states. It’s called the Supermarket Test and, according to Ryan, it always works. “The Supermarket Test springs from my own love of food,” Ryan explains. “If I’m unhappy, a trip to the supermarket cheers me up. I find that the gorgeous colours of fruits and vegetables give me a natural lift.” “Colours speak to me in the most elemental language — feelings — in particular, my instinctive response to colours. The Supermarket Test is based upon my belief that if we like the taste of a fruit or vegetable, we like its colour … Taste plays a major part in the subconscious reason we like a colour.”
R WORLD
Colour psychology sits squarely in the subconscious — cultural, ethnic, gender and age differences don’t matter; it will always affect us the same way. It has always been this way. Forty years ago, Angela Wright started exploring the way colours influence us, and she was one of the first to do so. As the daughter of hotel owners in England, she observed that when given the choice between two rooms, identical in every way except colour scheme, guests would invariably have a preference for one over the other. “I used to say to them ‘why don’t you like this one?’ and they always said the same thing ‘oh, no, I don’t dislike it, I like it.… I just feel better in the other one,’” remarks Wright. “I decided I was going to study this. I found that a degree in psychology would have given me three years of tuition and four days of how colour is processed by the eye and the brain. I thought ‘well, I think I’m on my own here.’.”
Since then, Wright has worked with academia in the UK to teach the Colour Affects System, a theory she’s developed, to students spanning several industries, from fashion to marketing. She also owns and operates Colour Affects, a consultancy firm helping businesses incorporate colour into their brands, and wrote The Beginner’s Guide to Colour Psychology. “WHEN THE LIGHT STRIKES THE RETINA, … RODS AND CONES … CONVERT THOSE WAVELENGTHS OF LIGHT INTO ELECTRICAL IMPULSES THAT PASS ON TO THE BRAIN AND FINALLY ARRIVE AT THE HYPOTHALAMUS,” EXPLAINS WRIGHT.
“[The hypothalamus] together with the pituitary gland, governs the endocrine system and our hormones. So, all these different wavelengths are having marginally, or sometimes greatly, different effects on our hormones and our endocrine glands.”
The Colour Affects system developed by Wright explains these effects through several stages. The first is recognizing that each of the primary hues — red, blue, green, yellow — affects us in different ways. Red targets the body. “Red is physically stimulating,” explains Wright. “It acts on the body. Raises the pulse rate and the blood pressure. Essentially stimulating. Pink, which is a tint of red, also acts on us physically, but it soothes because it’s a soft colour.” Blue targets the mind. “Blue is intellectual, mental,” states Wright. “So it helps you to focus and think clearly. And the softer blues help you to concentrate — calm the mind and concentrate.” Yellow targets emotion. “Yellow acts on the emotions, the ego and self-confidence,” say Wright. This is one of the reasons it is seen as a happy colour and tends to lift moods. MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 23
BLUE TARGETS THE MIND. “BLUE IS INTELLECTUAL, MENTAL,” STATES COLOUR EXPERT ANGELA WRIGHT. “SO IT HELPS YOU TO FOCUS AND THINK CLEARLY. AND THE SOFTER BLUES HELP YOU TO CONCENTRATE — CALM THE MIND AND CONCENTRATE.”
Green, which is our colour of the year, “creates balance between the mind, body and emotions,” explains Wright. “Which is a pretty essential colour in itself.” The other seven basic colours — orange, purple, pink, grey, black, white and brown — fit within those four different effects. For example, purple is a blend of blue and red, which gives the sense of luxury— a physical feeling akin to being pampered — while also stimulating the mind to indulge in that extra dessert. Applying Wright’s Colour Affects theory to get the most out of your interior design, you need to use the right hues to subconsciously direct yourself and your guests. This means using blue (or hues/ tints/tones/variations of ) in rooms where intellectual pursuit and mental focus is required — like the office or a study room; using yellow in rooms where you need to be pumped up, excited or confident; using red in rooms where energy, activity and other physical requirements need to be met; and green is for rooms where calm, harmony and balance reign (why does a yoga studio keep popping up in my mind?). Green, and Pantone’s Greenery specifically, should be used and incorporated into your home every day, even in the smallest way. “When your environment contains green, this indicates the presence of healthy vegetation. So, you’re not going to starve; so, it suggests abundance,” says Wright. “I always have green or a little bit of green, somewhere in my house.” 24 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
If you’re not ready to commit to a full paint job of your home, add a plant or three; if you have a black thumb like me, a fake plant works too. Bring green to the table by adding more to your plate — a splash of colour in a dish is better emphasized when placed on a bed of lush, vibrant greens. “On the table, Greenery plates and chargers provide an appetizing backdrop for food — making dishes pop and appear fresh. Greenery is also often used in design for the hospitality and culinary industries to convey organic healthfulness,” reads the Pantone press release about its Color of the Year. There is, of course, more to this psychology than just how one colour plays on our subconscious. We have to consider how they work together. Wright explains this in the two steps of her Colour Affects system. The first identifies the four basic personality colour groupings — warm, cool, bright and soft; the second separates these four groups into their spectrums — firelight, morninglight, dreamlight and starlight. From there, Wright is able to create a colour scheme that perfectly matches someone’s personality — the four basic colour groups correspond to the four main personality profiles developed by such savants as Hippocrates (four temperaments — sanguine, choleric, melancholic, phlegmatic) and Carl Jung (cognitive functions — thinking, feeling, sensation and intuition). “If the colours belong to your group, your reaction is likely to be ‘oh, wow, those are my kind of colours’. You sort of identify
with them,” says Wright. “But if you see a colour scheme that is drawn from a different group … you’ll more likely say ‘oh, wow, those colours look great’. That’s admiration. So, either way, you’’ve got a positive response, which comes in pretty handy when you’re doing things like branding.” “When I looked at that Pantone Greenery, I thought ‘you know, that’s spot on’,” says Wright. “This year is so full of uncertainty — with all the dramatic developments right across the world, the world has apparently gone mad — so the natural instinct is to reach for green because green restores balance. So, it is the perfect colour for this year.” And, well, it should be, since this isn’t the first year Pantone has released a Color of the Year. It’s been promoting this nice piece of marketing for some time now. Some of the industries though may not catch on for a while — especially if there are larger items that need to be created. “Greenery will most likely be seen in apparel this year [but] will be seen in paints, fabrics, wall coverings, flooring and accessories, such as lamp bases, sofa pillows, [in two years],” mentions Ryan. She explains that the interior design industry is about two years behind the fashion industry. In the meantime, incorporate some greenery into your space so that you can find the balance you need to deal with the craziness. And, if all else fails, go outside and lie on the grass under a tree. You’ll always be able to find your balance there. ×
EDGE OF BITTERNESS by Tim Pawsey
In Verona, there’s one unmistakable, overpowering feature that stands out. At the city’s heart — in every sense — is the remarkably well preserved Roman amphitheatre, constructed two millennia ago, circa 30 AD. Badly damaged by a 12th-century earthquake and partially restored in more recent times, it’s still in use today, a breathtakingly impressive venue for opera and concerts. It’s indeed omnipresent, spectacular by day but even more so at night when it’s floodlit — a potent reminder that history rules. It seems only fitting then that the major annual tasting of Amarone should take place right across from the Arena in the imposing Palazzo della Gran Guardia. This year, the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella staged a preview of the 2013 vintage, with some 83 wineries in attendance. Although 2013 got off to a rocky start, due to moisture early in the season, ripening conditions were ideal, ultimately yielding a good vintage that has produced wines of sound quality that define their terroir well. There was no shortage of impressive wines on offer, although they won’t be released for some time yet. It’s really only in recent years that Amarone has risen to prominence and come to enjoy such recognition. Today, this wine accounts for about one third of the region’s wine revenues and its production has increased fivefold in the last 20 years. In retrospect, my exploration of this style might have started in a shower. Specifically, in an Italian shower, which boasted several components — from the telephone head with pulsating options to full body sprays and even a foot bath — all of which provided a potent reminder of precisely how Italians are masters of concept and the art of design. My point is that, as with many things Italian, when it comes to grapes and their ultimate fate, there is arguably no wine anywhere so carefully conceived, designed and executed as Amarone, the Veneto’s standard bearer. MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 25
Claudio Farina has had a lot of success with his Amarone and Recioto, especially his Amarone Riserva Montefante
ALBINO ARMANI AMARONE CUSLANUS 2011 ($70) Made from the grapes of some of the highest vineyards in Marano, which are dried for at least 90 days and then fermented for another 90 days. Well-defined savoury cherry and spice notes; dark cherry and quince over a streak of mineral and schist. Good acidity, with layers of sweet fruit and well-integrated, approachable tannins.
CANTINE CASA BENNATI AMARONE CLASSICO 2013, SOAVE ($65) Forward notes of black fruit, spice and raisin followed by a generous, layered palate underpinned by firm but elegant tannins with an abundance of blackberry notes, cassis and lingering spice in the close.
CA’LA BIONDA AMARONE RAVAZZOL 2008 ($60) From a clay and limestone vineyard in Marano at 300 metres, this 8-year-old wine from a cooler vintage benefitted from aging in large oak barrels. An integrated and rounded profile, intense mineral core, cherry and black fruit, followed by more defined silky tannins before an elegant, lingering spicy close.
CARLO BOSCAINI AMARONE 2012 ($70) Made from old vines and aged for 30 months in older oak. Lovely, elegant, supple entry shows firm oak tones underneath plush cherry and redcurrant notes. Elegant, textured mouthfeel plus a core savoury streak that echoes the house style. A powerful but restrained wine with plenty of aging potential. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
As the saying goes, great wine is made in the vineyard. No argument there. But great wine, as we know, is also made by people, in wine cellars, using techniques firmly grounded in tradition and, even in today’s less-interventionist era, often still with a degree of manipulation and sophistication. It wasn’t always thus. Ironically, Amarone della Valpolicella was first made by mistake. A mere accident of birth, this driest of red wines was first uncovered in a long-forgotten tank of Recioto. It came to light only in 1938, in an undistinguished, dark corner of a Valpolicella cooperative, on which the region’s wine industry at the time was firmly based. Through arrested fermentation, Recioto has always been made as a sweet wine. But the forgotten contents of the elusive tank in question had continued to ferment the sugars into alcohol. The fully fermented (and now high-alcohol) wine turned out to be far drier, more intense and much stronger — all of which proved promising for the long run. While Recioto, made also from dried grapes, is sweet by design, the contrasting drier style may have seemed bitter — amaro — by comparison. Hence Amarone, or the Great Bitter One, seemed to be the perfect handle. Today, the co-op in question, Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, has been transformed into one of the region’s leaders, with state-of-the-art, immense computer-controlled drying rooms — and, yes, a display of original bottles commemorating the occasion. The practice of drying grapes in the Veneto can be traced to Roman times, with accounts dating from the 2nd century AD, when bunches were laid out on straw mats, giving rise to the commonly used term straw wine. Earlier drying examples from Grecian cultures have been traced as far back as 899 BC. While wine regions around the world may employ similar techniques, nowhere is the practice so widely established and fine-tuned as in the Veneto. Drying varieties like Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and others is engrained in the region’s psyche. Has been for generations.
Winemakers also like to make the point that by picking directly into baskets that go directly to the drying rooms, the grapes are handled more gently. When they do ultimately arrive at the crusher (months later), they are in better shape. Not only that, but winegrowers have developed techniques and ideas that often converge — where almost every aspect of the fruit, from skins to dried fruit, is ingeniously used to enhance differing styles. Case in point, the pressings from Amarone are put to good use for the production of Valpolicella Ripasso.
Not only is it just the passito method that sets Valpolicella apart, but also the varieties grown here are all indigenous and have rarely been exported, which offers yet one more potent argument as to why almost all of the wines in this region, truly, are unique. A tour of Valpolicella and specifically of Amarone producers unearths a passion that — even in the already driven sphere of winemaking — is rarely found elsewhere. While grapes for Recioto come primarily from lower valley sites, those destined for Amarone —namely Corvina and Corvinone, as well as Rondinella and Spigamonte — come from higher plantings, often ranging from between 200 and 500 metres. These grape varieties are ideally suited to drying since their sensory qualities (including aromatics and flavours) are considerably enhanced by a drying process that can extend up to four months or more. In terms of weight retention during drying, Corvina vastly outperforms a variety such as Syrah, and even Cabernet and Merlot. Even so, the Corvina grapes will still lose around 25 percent of their weight in the first two months — and more as time goes on. At the end of the day, Corvina and Cor-
Egle Capilupi from the storied Albino
Armani Winery also produces some impressive sparkling
MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 27
LA GIUVA 2013 ($40) From high-altitude plantings in Val Squaranto between Valpantena and Mezzane valleys. On the nose, clove, spice and black cherry; palate of mulberry and cherry with a generously textured palate layered with cassis notes and pepper spice before a lengthy end.
TEDESCHI AMARONE 2013 ($48) From the winery’s “consumer-friendly” range, from younger vines. Fresh, bright red fruit, such as mulberry, with some darker notes in the background. Even, well-textured mouthfeel with vibrant black fruit over a herbal, savoury streak through the dry finish.
TEDESCHI LA FABRISERIA AMARONE CLASSICO 2011 ($45) Opens to spice and earthy notes. Lifted raisin and red berry notes with a wild fruit edge. Still firm; well integrated tannins tempered with juicy acidity balanced by freshness and underpinned by a mineral undertone. Definite raisin personality on the close. A classic union of balance, freshness and power.
MARCO MOSCONI AMARONE 2012 ($60) From one of the region’s dynamic up-and-comers. Still very youthful, made from 40-year-old vines. Forward dried berry fruits followed by a generous streak of juicy acidity and spicy notes with a little herbal edge. Well balanced: almost over-the-top 16.8% alcohol shows a little on the close but holds well in check.
MONTE DEL FRA AMARONE CLASSICO TENUTA LENA DI MEZZO 2011 ($45) From 55-year-old vines. Aromas of black cherry, pepper and anise precede a full-bodied, complex palate with layers of black fruit and spice wrapped in structured tannins. Some earthy undertones before a lengthy finish.
CORTE LONARDI AMARONE CLASSICO 2013 ($65) Brooding dark fruit up front above some earthy notes. A focused and intense palate of blackberry and anise wrapped in grippy, but still elegant, intense spice and black pepper through to a opulent fruit finish.
CORTE SANT’ALDA AMARONE VALMEZZANE 2011 ($70) Made by Marinella Camerani, one of very few women winemakers in the region and an early organic and biodynamic pioneer. Dried in traditional wooden baskets then aged in large French oak for about 4 years. Pure, lifted red and black fruit aromas, an elegant-fruit driven entry with focused minerality, precise texture and generous mouthfeel. Savoury and spice notes through the persistent close.
DOMINI VENETI AMARONE MATER 2010 ($70) A special separate project of Cantina Negrar, which owns vineyards in all of Valpolicella’s historic regions. Aromas of spice, dark cherry and earthy notes precede a well-textured, full-bodied palate with a spicy, mineral streak down the middle to a peppery close, wrapped in elegant, supple tannins.
FARINA AMARONE RISERVA 2012 ($60) Made from 50% Corvina, plus Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Oseleta and Turchetta. Aged mainly in Slovenian oak barrels and barriques. Red and black fruit up front precede vanilla notes and layers of firm, toasted oak on a mouth-filling palate solidly supported by firm tannins with spice and dry tannins in the close.
RECCHIA AMARONE DI JAGO CLASSICO 2013 ($45)
FIDORA AMARONE MONTE TABOR 2010 ($60)
Lifted red berries on the nose before a plush cherry and raspberry–toned palate defined by pure fruit and elegant layers wrapped in juicy acidity with a touch of savoury herbal notes. Medium bodied and balanced, with spice and assertive minerality that builds through the peppery finish.
From one of the region’s very first (since 1974) organic growers. Dark cherry, plum, spice and earthy notes up front, followed by a palate that’s still quite youthful, but truly well integrated, with the freshness and acidity playing off vibrant plum and red fruit through the finish. Certified organic.
CORTE FIGARETTO AMARONE BROLO 2013, VALPANTENA ($50)
SAN CASSIANO AMARONE RISERVA 2012 ($75)
Deep ruby red garnet in the glass, hints of ripe red fruit and dried notes up front with generous red berry notes and hints of spice on the palate. Well-structured tannins lie below a clean fruit expression and lingering black pepper notes.
28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
From a high-altitude planting in Monte Guala. Expressive, lifted cherry and floral violet notes precede a palate underpinned by good structure and bright acidity, with a juiciness that persists throughout the blue fruit and blackberry/mocha-toned palate. Underpinned by firm tannins and assertive oak; needs time but is full of promise.
Ca’la Bionda’s Pietro Castellani with his sons; winemaker Alessandro and viticulturist Nicola
vinone have long proven to be drying stars. Of particular importance, the incidence of rot (the mortal enemy of successful drying) is low to non-existent in higher altitude, usually DOCG, sites. After drying, the grapes are tank-fermented before being aged in (usually) large oak barriques. Organic farming and sustainable farming are increasingly taking hold. There exists a growing awareness of the need to be wary of monocultures and to embrace balanced practices. A recently introduced “RRR” (Reduce, Respect, Retrench) certification is granted based to wineries that adopt innovative techniques in the vineyard and in protecting the landscape. The consortium hopes that two out of three wineries will be certified in the next couple of years. At Ca’la Bionda (established in 1902), the Castellani family grows olives as well as grapes and also raises a strain of sheep indigenous to the region. Fifth-generation brothers Alessandro and Nicola run the cellar and vineyard, respectively. One of the bigger challenges with which they’ve recently had to contend stems from markedly higher mean summer temperatures, which have moved from 28˚C to hotter spells hitting 32 to 33˚C, as well as increased drought periods. The only solution, explains Alessandro, was to install irrigation, which required a well of 350 metres, as well as a pumping system that could take the water to 300 metres elevation. An organic program, started in 2000, saw the vineyard certified last year — all part of a plan to focus even more on quality. “Even though you can always ripen Corvina,” says Alessandro, “You need to be able to say ‘no’ to Amarone in a bad vin-
tage. If the vintage isn’t great, you put the grapes into Ripasso.” This was the case in 2014. He believes the future of the region lies in proper terroir mapping that clearly identifies the better sites; and points to Burgundy (with similarities between Pinot Noir and Corvina) as a proven example. “A good region needs to have an identity,” he insists. “We have a tradition of food — and we make these wines that are fantastic with food. Of course, it’s easy to sell soft wines ... but the market in the future is for more elegant wines.” A vertical of Ca’la Bionda Amarone Ravazzol (’13, ’11, ’08 and ’05 vintages, made with grapes from 50- to 70-year-old vines in the highest vineyard) graphically underscores Amarone’s potential for aging: the 2005 still shows surprising freshness up front, followed by complex mineral layers and superb balance. Wild boar is the perfect match for Amarone, says Alessandro. (So too is Norwegian reindeer, he confides.) But, at the end of the day, he echoes the opinion of many others. “Amarone is best enjoyed perhaps with some Parmesan, in the company of a good friend, over a couple of hours.” Others might beg to differ. One sure-fire match is Amarone risotto (although, at least in Canada, I’m not necessarily inclined to sacrifice a good portion of a $50 bottle to be that authentic). Another great pairing is just about anything made with radicchio (the ubiquitous Veneto staple), including an utterly delicious variation on Austrian strudel. It has just that edge of bitterness that manages to play the amaro in Amarone. Or is that amore? Perhaps it is. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 29
KNOW FOR REAL by Michael Pinkus
What do you know about Portugal? Sure you know the Douro Valley, where they make Port and a variety of table wines from a plethora of grapes, but that can’t be all Portugal is known for. After all, it’s a pretty big place, with a huge historical significance.
But instead of going through all 14 regions, let’s take a look at some of the more prominent ones you are likely to see on bottles these days. Dão is high country, located in north-central Portugal. It lies 200 to 1,000 metres above sea level, giving grapes the benefit of cooler nights, slower ripening times and delivering great acidity-laden wines. The area grows the usual suspects: Touriga Nacional, a staple within Portugal; Tinta Roriz (also known as Tempranillo in Spain); Jaen; Baga; Tinta Pinheira; and one of my personal favourite grape names ever, Bastardo. Bairrada is also located in the north-central area, but is more coastal, lying between the Dão and the sea. It is known for sparkling wines — which rarely see the light of day on Canadian shores. However, we do see other wines from the region, which is known traditionally for wines made from the Baga grape. In 2003, Bairrada began allowing more grapes into its wines, like Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro, plus international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot. Doing so created a greater interest in Barraida wines, both nationally and internationally. Alentejo is one of three major wine-growing regions in Portugal. Because of its southern locale within the country and the heat units it gets, Alentejo is known mainly for its red wines. Tempranillo — or, as the locals call it, “Aragonez” (yes, yet another name for the grape) — is the most planted variety, plus there is an assortment of other unpronounceable indigenous red varieties planted. Alfrocheiro, Tinta Caiada and Castelao are common, although you are starting to see more international grapes rearing their heads within the region, namely Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, there is more to explore within Portugal. With 14 official wine regions, that means there are another 11 regions that you can delve deeper into, each more fascinating and rich in history than the next. So let’s look at some of the wines that are made outside the Douro; let’s discover the alternative Portugal. 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
ALIANCA RESERVE 2011, BAIRRADA ($9) From another part of Portugal, so there’s more than the Douro’s lush, plush fruit; here dark red cherries meet leather and wood smoke.
ALBUM RESERVA RED 2013, ALENTEJANO ($14.95) Petit Verdot and Syrah make up 60% of this wine with Alicante Bouchet and Aragonez. You get liquorice, leather and red fruit. There’s a nice peppery finish that seems a little short — which just means you have to sip quicker.
LAGRAR DE DAREI RED 2012, DÃO ($13.95) A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrochiero, so you’re hitting all the big guns of the region in one bottle. There’s a real leanness to this wine, but enough dark fruit and minerality to keep you interested.
PRINCIPIUM MERLOT/TOURIGA NACIONAL 2012, LISBOA ($13.95) Merlot meets Touriga Nacional may not be the greatest marriage of grapes you’ve
The 3 winemakers at Principium: Manuel Vieira, Maria Godinho and Manuel Pires da Silva
ever had but it intrigues the palate with its interesting herbal, cherry and earthy notes.
QUINTA DO MONDEGO 2010, DÃO ($19.95)
BEYRA 2014 VINHOS DE ALTITUDE RED 2014, BEIRA INTERIOR ($12.95)
Comes across a little lean at first due to the more mineral nature of this wine, but then the dark fruit and balancing acidity help to bring it back to life.
I had a friend tell me this was the best bargain from Portugal he’s had in a long time. With its red fruit flavours and touch of spice, you can see why it’s such an excellent value.
HERDADE DO ROCIM 2012, ALENTEJANO ($17.95)
NIEPOORT DÃO RÓTULO RED 2013, DÃO ($18.95)
A blend of indigenous grapes that includes Syrah in their midst. Plum, cherry, gentle cedar, spice and nicely lingering acidity on the finish.
Notes of rhubarb and cherry mix with acidity and firm tannins; not a wine rich in fruit but one that will pair nicely with food.
VADIO TINTO 2012, BAIRRADA ($22.95)
QUINTA DAS SETENCOSTAS ALENQUER 2012, ALENQUER ($14)
Proving that simple can be truly flavourful, this one is gentle vanilla, black cherry and white pepper.
Chalky and minerally but still with pleasant plum, cherry, vanilla and cinnamon flavours.
QUINTA DO QUETZAL GUADALUPE WINEMAKER’S SELECTION RED 2012, ALENTEJANO ($15.95) Herbal and spice lead things off with cherry, plum, vanilla flavours and an elegant leanness that makes it truly inviting as a sipper or with food.
QUINTA DO QUETZAL GUADALUPE RED 2013, ALENTEJANO ($11.95) It’s got lots of red cherry and plum for not a lot of dough. Another wine that shows simplicity can still be exciting.
MARQUÊS DE MARIALVA RESERVA BAGA 2011, BAIRRADA ($15.95) Coffee aromas with earthy-blackberry,
plus raspberry and balsamic strawberries. Baga can be an acquired taste and a tough place to start your Portuguese exploration, so be careful with this grape; it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.
QUINTA DE CAMARATE RED 2014, SETUBAL ($15.95) 16% Cabernet Sauvignon stages a sit-in here among the indigenous grapes. Fresh, ripe red and black fruit, a touch of cedar and some spicy nuances.
HERDADE PESO TRINCA BOLOTAS TINTO 2014, ALENTEJO ($15.95) Juicy and sweet-ish notes with black cherry, black raspberry and balsamic strawberry on the finish.
QUINTA DO ENCONTRO PRETO BRANCO RESERVA RED 2013, BAIRRADA ($18.95) Smoky blackberry, black cherry, plum and black tea from beginning to end.
CASA DA PASSARELLA SOMONTES RED 2011, DÃO ($13.95) Elements of spice intermingle with minerality, plum and liquorice flavours. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 31
BEYOND MARITIM by Treve Ring
*written by someone who has lived on an island for more than 30 years The term “maritime climate” is easy to understand. As the name suggests, these are wine-producing regions that are directly affected by their proximity to large bodies of water. Other than sailors, fishers and pirates, no one appreciates or understands maritime life more than those who live and work surrounded by the sea: islanders. Even though some islands don’t technically have a maritime climate (Sicily’s is firmly Mediterranean, for example), wine islands around the globe are more united than you might think. From Tasmania to Madeira to Vancouver Island to Nova Scotia to New Zealand, working with the sea brings a unique set of influences to the wines — and it’s more than just the vineyard. Viticulturally, the ocean’s moderating properties can be profound, sharing cooling breezes and tempering frost risk — essentially levelling out otherwise hazardous (to vines at least) climate conditions and extending the growing season. Maritime climates are characterized by warm (but not hot) summers, and cool (but not cold) winters — all good things for a vigneron. Seawater takes a long time to warm up in summer, but holds its warm energy long after the surrounding shore has cooled down, helping to moderate the climate into the fall. However, for all its benefits, a maritime climate is not without risk. As uncontrollable as the sea itself, an oceanic influence can cause veritable shipwrecks in vineyards via damaging wind storms, excessive rain and humidity, which increase the risk of disease. Island vineyards are also affected by more than climate. The geographical limitation of being surrounded by water generally restricts vineyard size, scaling wineries smaller than their continental cousins. Furthermore, in some parts of the world, viticulture has developed apart from other regions, cultivating grapes and methods unique to the island. One just has to consider the singularity of Madeira for evidence of that. The cost of doing business can also be affected by island living, with everything from dry goods’ transfer in, to ferrying or freighting wine away adding potential costs to the bottom line. Because of quantity and route to market restrictions, plus a generally slower “island 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
time” clock to life, many wineries prefer to cater to their local markets. While the carbon footprint and personal relationship afforded by close contact with customers is a benefit, it can also be a hindrance to advancing the regions’ quality and recognition. Where is the motivation to sell and excel if your stock is scooped up by your locavore-loving neighbours? Islands are often more challenging to access for tourists as well, unless a flight or a ferry crossing is included in travel plans and budgets. The fewer people who taste your wines, the fewer people will understand you and your region; that’s a fact, no matter where in the world you are. Island life amplifies that. Smaller-scale, specialized, fresh and unique wines that need to be sought out — it sounds like any sommelier’s dream. So, here are six of the wine islands, and their special wines, that you need to circle in your atlas.
TASMANIA
Off the southern coast of Australia and surrounded by the cool Southern Ocean, Tasmania has been rightfully cast as a pristine state for serious and age-worthy sparkling wines and crisp, cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Seven geographical regions produce wine on soils ranging from sandstone and schist in Derwent Valley, to the gravelly basalts of Tamar Valley.
ME
Daniel Cosman, consulting winemaker at Unsworth Vineyards
JANSZ PREMIUM CUVÉE NV, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA ($28) Devils aside, this is why Tazzy rules. This cool-climate island is ideal for bright, crisp and high-acid sparkling wine with a gentle cushion of ripe fruit. This “méthode Tasmanoise” is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from across the Island. Taut with red apple, cherry and citrus, the palate courts lemon curd and Asian pear before a riff of tight grapefruit and a whiff of herbal anise.
DEVIL’S CORNER PINOT NOIR 2014, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA ($25) Always excited to see a Tasmanian wine on our shelves, and even more excited to taste it when it’s this interesting. Intoxicating florals, exotic spices, minerality, iron and dried forest on the nose. The palate is textured with stony grip, and layered with smooth and perfumed cassis, black cherry, savoury truffle, subtle cloves and dusky lilacs, supported by worn oak and lifted with brisk acidity. An interesting wine, worth contemplation.
VANCOUVER ISLAND
Off the far western coast of British Columbia, Vancouver Island is the first land break for the mighty Pacific Ocean’s cooling breezes. The main wine valley, Cowichan, translates to “The Warm Land,” the name given by its First Nations residents hundreds of years ago. It’s a fitting title: the Cowichan Valley has the highest average temperature in all of Canada, creating an ideal growing climate for many things, including vines. Crisp, lighter whites and reds are the norm (Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir leading) as are the use of Blattner hybrids like Cabernet Foch, Epicure and Petit Milo, which are well adapted to the vagaries of climate.
UNSWORTH VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR 2014, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26) An alluring nose of perfumed black raspberry, forest and fine spice opens this light-bodied Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir. Fermentation in stainless before 16 months in new and used French oak, this is bright, quiet and elegant Pinot. Finely sticky tannins, MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Arianna Occhipinti
gently lifted acidity, subtle black cherry and a lick of pink peppercorn spice prove that less is more. Fine florals linger on the finish. Lovely on its own, or pour with more delicate foods, like black tea and wild mushroom poached fish.
AVERILL CREEK CHARME DE L’ILE NV, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($18) Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are branded under the Charme de L’ile name, signifying Charmat method fizz made from island grapes. This is a beauty example, fresh and finessed far beyond your typical Proscecco-styled wine. Light florals, crisp pear, green apple and ample minerality on the lively palate. Kissed with honey and an herbal savoury note on the zesty finish. Fantastic value, very impressive.
SICILY
Sicily has been producing wine for more than 3,000 years, and today’s modern wines are shaped by the island’s indigenous grapes and time-tested traditions. Grillo, Catarratto, Nero d’Avola and Frappato are just four of the 50 grape gems native to this Mediterranean island. The warm, dry climate benefits from coast breezes, keeping mildew low and benefitting sustainable, low-interventionist winemaking.
PLANETA ETNA ROSSO 2013, DOC ETNA, SICILY, ITALY ($30) This finessed, lifted Nerello Mascalese takes you right to Sicily and the unique volcanic terroir and altitude of Etna DOC. The wine sees 18 days of skin contact before resting in used barriques for 6 months. Perfumed with wild raspberries, herbal anise and cherry aromas. This medium-bodied red is lifted with bright acid34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
ity, carrying perfumed violets, cherry, raspberry and bittersweet cocoa across fine-grained, gritty tannins. Minerality seems omnipresent through to the lingering violet-scented, grippy finish. Truffles, salty aged cheese and charcuterie will pair now, or cellar for 3 to 5 years and be rewarded.
OCCHIPINTI IL FRAPPATO 2014, IGT TERRE SICILIANE, SICILY, ITALY ($50) Herbal, perfumed woodsy flowers, this biodynamic frappato is from 50– to 60-year-old vines grown on Sicilian sands and chalk, at 280 metres altitude. 70% of the wine is macerated for 2 months on its skins, while the other 30% stays on its skins for 8 months. Aged 14 months in large 25HL Slavonian oak barrels before a 1-month stint in bottle before being bottled unfiltered. An herbal, earthy and salty cut lures you into this light-bodied, expressive and beguilingly floral red, one held riveted with fine but ample grippy tannins. Frappato’s florals abound: iris, lilac, blue plum, sap and sweet salami lead the textural, rock-dust palate to the salty mushroom bouillon on the finish. Even better the second day, this intriguing wine is one for adventurous drinkers to return to again and again.
MADEIRA
This rare, fortified, exceptionally long-lived wine is only produced and bottled on a small sub-tropical Portuguese Island in the Atlantic, geographically closer to Morocco than it is to mainland Portugal. Steep and mountainous, Madeira is home to seven different microclimates spanning cold Atlantic to subtropical. Grapes here have evolved over the centuries, with traditional whites Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual and Malmsey joined by the sole workhorse black grape, Tinta Negra.
BLANDY’S MALMSEY RICH 10 YEAR OLD, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL ($50) Walnut hued, with flashes of orange. Brandied walnuts, roasted almonds and hazelnut paste aromas carry to the palate, where fine, grippy brisk tannins add structure. Acidity holds the sweetness very well. Worn woods close the finish, along with great white peppery spicing.
BLANDY’S TERRANTEZ 1977, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL ($210) Deep-brown orange hue. Richer and rounder in the mouth with nut butter, golden raisins, subtle woods, orange oil and nuts. Oxidized, with a slightly off-nut character, though remains fine and graceful on the concentrated palate through the lengthy finish.
NEW ZEALAND
Vibrancy and purity through the length of New Zealand’s slender 1,600-kilometre frame — from sub-tropical Northland (36°S) to the world’s most southerly grape-growing region, Central Otago (46°S). No vineyard is more than 120 kilometres from the ocean, with warm sunshine hours offset by oceancooled evenings. While Sauvignon Blanc dominates, other grapes excel, with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz showing great promise. Very generally, the warmer climates of the North Island’s Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay typically yield fuller-bodied, riper wines with softer acidity, while the somewhat cooler South Island shows medium- to lighter-bodied wines, with greater acidity.
NOVA SCOTIA
Its location on the far eastern coast of Canada doesn’t just afford Nova Scotia the cooling sea breezes of the powerful Atlantic Ocean. It was also one of the first land stops for explorers from Europe, which is why vines were planted for wine production as early as the 17th Century, one of the first plantings in North America. With soils carved by the ice age, and marine-hardy hybrid grapes given preferential treatment, the wines of Nova Scotia are as singular as they come. The extended growing season and cool-climate freshness have also provided a spectacular environment for sparkling wines.
JOST TIDAL BAY 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($18) Tidal Bay is an appellation of style, and these wines are meant to reflect the fresh, bright, light atmosphere of coastal Nova Scotia. The whites are L’Acadie Blanc and other white varieties, and cannot exceed 11% alcohol. Jost’s Tidal Bay is splashed with Geisenheim, resulting in perfumed lime blossoms, a light lavender note and off-dry sweetness on a soft, light, lifted palate.
BENJAMIN BRIDGE BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE 2011, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($45) This newly released 100% Chardonnay Brut spent 4 years on the lees before its release, and is still extremely tight, fresh and precise. Tasting beautifully now, this has a long life ahead. Gripped by a pithy tightness, and centred with a comfortably slender palate, this is crystalline orange and lemon, pear skin and oil, with bitter lemon thistle herbaceousness through to a shimmering vibrato on the finish. Serious stuff.
An island’s microclimate (like the one in Madeira) has a huge impact on the wines
NO. 1 FAMILY ESTATE NO. 1 CUVÉE BLANC DE BLANCS NV, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($40) Spiced ginger dough, sea salt and frizzed lemon pith open this blanc de blancs, from 100% Chardonnay. The tight, green apple and lemon character has been deepened and matured with 2 years on the lees, but it still retains the marine freshness. Elegant and well integrated.
SCHUBERT BLOCK B PINOT NOIR 2013, WAIRARAPA, NEW ZEALAND ($50) From the North Island’s Wairarapa Valley, this Pinot Noir was destemmed and fermented into stainless for 3 weeks of maceration before moving to French barriques for 18 months (40% new). Bricking hue, this generous Pinot leads with autumn forest and moss into sun-ripened cherry and black raspberry, mustard seed herbaciousness, fine pepper and cinnamon spicing, and a subtle tar-lined, fleshy palate. Fine, grainy tannins frame the whole to a warm, smoky finish. This packed Kiwi Pinot will stand up to smoked pork ribs. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 35
KNOCKING ON NAPA’S DOOR Pylons of flame, taller than the people attending to them, shoot orange, yellow and blue skywards, forcing hot air into multi-hued envelopes that mushroom above rattan gondolas. Passengers — in some cases as many as 16 — pile as quickly as they can into the individually segmented baskets (as getting in and out of these things, they are told, is actually the most dangerous part of a hot air balloon ride). With another series of burner blasts, the flotilla tosses away earthly tethers, rising with the sun into a crisp, crystalline, indigo blue morning sky. Drifting at the speed of the mild breeze that propels them, occupants of each floating carriage hear no sound (with the exception of the 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
occasional burner blast) and feel no wind (the balloon moves with it). The last of the evening stars twinkle out as the blinding morning light explodes across the horizon, illuminating the vast, emerald green tracts of vineyards below. We hovered and glided over some of the world’s most coveted winemaking plots, taking in the undulating expanse of California’s Napa Valley. An hour or so later, after a peaceful yet breathtaking flight, our pilot skillfully set us down for a pinpoint landing. You can’t really “steer” a hot air balloon, so landing on a precise target involves a coordinated combination of cooperative weather and vertical/ horizontal trajectory. Very occasionally,
this combination proves elusive, even to the best of the balloon boyz. As our airships made landfall, we collectively gazed up to see the last one in our party continue to rise and drift southwest, past all possible landing sites, towards the outflow of the Napa River. This wayward balloon incident sparked local television news coverage and set the social media network all a-twitter. Luckily, nobody was hurt, and most of the international journalists on the ill-fated vessel had the double thrill of not only “crash landing” a hot air balloon, but also of being rescued by a California Highway Patrol chopper. And the tour was just beginning.
The roaring from multiple propane burners rips holes in the silent fabric of the pre-dawn. by Tod Stewart
Joel Peterson from Ravenswood Winery is all about the “No Wimpy Wines” Zinfandel produces
MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 37
CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013 ($20)
If Napa is California’s answer to Bordeaux (more or less), then Sonoma — notably the Russian River Valley — could be it’s Burgundy (sort of ). Ripe pear aromas buttressed with suggestions of baked apple, clove, melted butter, lime zest and vanilla bean give way to a restrained, elegant, creamy palate featuring lemon custard, toasted/buttered nuts and crisp ripe apple. The finish is long with subtle spice and hints of caramel.
CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($25) Winemaker Gary Sitton blended 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, then aged the assemblage in a combination of French and Eastern European oak. The result is an aromatic red showing mocha, blackcurrant, cherry and a hint of graphite. Ripe and mildly spicy, it’s full of dark plum and blackberry flavours with some smoky/mineral notes.
RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE LODI ZINFANDEL 2014 ($25)
Heady, opulent, bold and pretty in-yourface — if that sounds like your cup ‘o wine, then this is probably your cup. Loaded with bramble, cocoa, black cherry, mint, cedar and mocha, this is a big, bold, chewy Zin that nevertheless shows nice balance and depth. Rich and ripe on the palate with dark chocolate, dried herbs, black raspberry and, interestingly, a hint of iodine. If you want to put some muscle where your mouth is.
RAVENSWOOD PETITE SIRAH VINTNERS BLEND 2014 ($20)
Joel Peterson may be “The Godfather of Zin,” but that hasn’t stopped him from making decidedly non-wimpy wines from other varietals. His 2014 Petite Sirah is redolent of woodsmoke, tar, wet slate, blackcurrent and dried herbs. Mineral-tinged, with flavour nuances of blackberry, smoke and dark berries, it boasts significant weight, medium tannins and a long finish.
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ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY NAPA VALLEY FUMÉ BLANC 2015 ($22)
Combining the “Fumé” of Pouilly-Fumé with “Blanc” from Sauvignon Blanc may have been a bit of marketing genius on Robert Mondavi’s part, but this wine sports more than just a clever name. Pretty potent at 14.5% ABV, but with no detectable heat, this FB shows ripe melon, flint, grapefruit, wet stone and some subtle herbal aromatics, with fresh, crunchy citrus, green melon, fennel and mineral/ smoke flavours. Tasting through a range of older Mondavi FBs suggest this wine will probably develop additional complexity with a few more years in the bottle.
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY CABERNET SAUVIGNON OAKVILLE DISTRICT 2013 ($70)
The Oakville district has been home to some of Napa’s most coveted Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards for over 130 years. Winemaker Genevieve Janssens used the classic five-grape Bordeaux blend from fruit harvested form the legendary To Kalon vineyard to craft this dense, inky, muscular red. Redolent with tar, graphite, cassis, black liquorice and tobacco, it’s going to need a few years to really explode. Give it at least a few more years; 15 more if you’re young.
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE TO KALON VINEYARD 2013 ($200)
Sourced from the eponymous To Kalon vineyard with Cabernet Sauvignon dominating (plus a sprinkle of Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot), this 50th anniversary release, from the “epic” 2013 vintage. Cassis and dark chocolate on the nose with a trace of graphite, lavender, black olive and a trace of menthol. Very rich and dense in the mouth with dark fruit, anise, tar, mocha and very subtle mint. In any case, this is still very much a baby and will likely need another five years before it starts to really show itself. It should age gracefully for a least a couple decades.
SIMI LANDSLIDE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012 ($50)
Ancient landslides and earthquakes yielded both the name “Landslide” and the three distinct sections that make up the vineyard. This is a very pretty wine indeed, with bright aromatics laced with dark plum, cassis, cedar, mild tobacco and some floral/herbal nuances. Fresh, ripe black cherry, blackberry, some toasty new oak nuances and a grind of pepper on the long, supple finish. Perfectly balanced, this wine is approachable but should develop further with mid-term cellaring.
SIMI SONOMA COUNTY MERLOT 2014 ($25)
Though it might still be fashionable to do so, don’t give up on New World Merlot! This sample from Simi has it all wrapped up with aromas of sweet dark plum, sandalwood, vanilla, mocha and allspice. Rich, warm, perfectly balanced and, well, just yummy. Mind blowingly complex? Maybe not. But impossible to put down? Pretty much.
SIMI SONOMA RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013 ($35)
Fruit from the acclaimed Chardonnay vineyards of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley is used to craft this poised and well-structured white. Toasty and buttery for sure, but kept in check by some pear, acacia and clove overtones. Midweight with a creamy palate, it offers up restrained pear and lemon notes, cleansing acidity and a touch of spice on the finish.
At Robert Mandavi Winery: winemaker Joe Harden, Director of Winemaking Geneviève Janssens and winemaker Megan Schofield
For lovers of fine vintages, Napa Valley conjures vivid mental images. Though the actual images of the region are pretty spectacular from a few thousand feet up in the air, the best way to get to know Napa is to hit the ground to tour and taste. I’m going to go out on a (very) short limb here and suggest that most of you Quench readers have probably heard of Napa, know where it is and have likely tasted a regional wine or two (or seven). The details you may not know is why God invented Google, so I’m not going to bore you — or myself — with minutia. However, as a sweeping generalization, Napa is essentially the Bordeaux of the New World. Cab is king, but all the rest of the supporting players are also there. Also like Bordeaux, Napa has raised the international vinous bar, both in terms of quality and price. It’s the place where you need to get on a waiting list to get on a waiting list to get your mea-
sly few bottles (or less) of Yelping Beagle Cab. It’s the land of 100-point Parker scores (hooray), stately wine estates and, well, gobs of extract. Yes, it’s definitely nouveau Bordeaux, but this isn’t to say a certain “homage” to Burgundy isn’t apparent as the Robert Mondavi Winery’s Carneros Reserve Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Reserve proved upon tasting. And let’s not forget the global wine ripples created by a certain Chateau Montelena Chardonnay back whenever. BESIDES THE MONTELENA THING, NAPA HAS A NUMBER OF VERY MINOR OENOPHILLIC ACHIEVEMENTS UNDER ITS BELT, including
spawning a plethora of renowned wines, legendary winemakers and wineries. As it turned out (by sheer coincidence), I happened to be in the region in time to help celebrate the 50th anniversary of
one of not only Napa’s, but the world’s, most important vinicultural institutions — the Robert Mondavi Winery. Founded in 1966 by Robert Mondavi, along with sons Michael and Tim, the winery was the first significant one to be constructed in Napa in the post-prohibition era. From its inception, the focus was almost exclusively on premium quality, though a few “popularly priced” brands also surfaced over time (the elder Mondavi was said to have expressed some regret for allowing his brand to go down this road with the Woodbridge and Coastal lines). Today, however, the vineyards are squarely focused on primo vino. Speaking of vineyards, if there’s a single jewel in the Mondavi crown, it comes in the form of Oakville’s To Kalon (Greek for “the highest beauty”) vineyard. First planted in the 1860s by H. W. Crabb, it changed hands several times after his death in 1899. Today, To Kalon ownership MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 39
If Napa models the ballroom gown, Sonoma flaunts in skinny jeans.
lies in the hands of the triumvirate of Robert Mondavi Winery, Opus One (the Mondavi/Mouton Rothschild joint venture) and grower Andy Beckstoffer. Recognized as one of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon plots on earth — America’s “First Growth”, as it has been dubbed — the vineyard is also planted with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and (perhaps somewhat incongruously) Syrah. Passing under the iconic archway that has become the Robert Mondavi Winery’s most recognizable visual motif, I’m greeted by the facility’s Director of Wine Education, Mark de Vere MW, a fellow whose humbling wine knowledge is matched only by his seemingly limitless energy. Over the next few days, de Vere would treat me to several palate workouts — as well as something of a physical one. Donning our safety helmets, we mounted bicycles to ride though the expanse of the To Kalon site under the sun of a glorious Napa morning. We examined numerous Cab Sauv plots, noting the variances in vine appearance and the size of the emerging berries. All the same variety, the clonal variances that accounted for the physical dissimilarities, de Vere pointed out, were what made To 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
Kalon’s fruit so complex and nuanced. We passed through the experimental H-Block, where extensive Cabernet research was being done, and the famed I-Block, planted with Sauvignon Blanc vines over 60 years old. Cycling builds up something of a thirst. Truth be told, we did down a few “samples” during our ride, but we had to park the bikes to concentrate. I expected the Cab-based wines to be amazing … and I wasn’t disappointed. At all. From the gorgeous (and still youthful) 1976 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve through the 1981, 1996 and 2006 vintages into the 2004 and 2012 Robert Mondavi Winery To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, it was a blissful sensory overload. And it wasn’t all Mondavi juice. As testament to the quality of To Kalon Cabernet (and possibly to the testament of Mondavi’s confidence/altruism), we also tasted a number of wines forged from Beckstoffer-grown fruit from other wineries, including Provenance, Alpha Omega, Realm, Detert and a host of others, as well as a smattering of the “best of the best” Cabs from around the world. However, I was taken completely off guard by the Mondavi Fumé Blancs that
were poured. In fact, it was Mondavi that coined the name Fumé Blanc, a mashup of Pouilly Fumé and Sauvignon Blanc — essentially denoting a Sauvignon Blanc with some barrel aging. That the 1998 Robert Mondavi Winery I Block To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc was still alive was one thing. That it was a complex marvel of toasty/nutty/waxy crème brûlée and lemon custard aromas and flavours, with zesty acidity, a viscous, unctuous palate and phenomenal length was another. Ditto for the 2004 and 1999 Robert Mondavi Winery To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve wines, the latter reminding me of one of my favourite wine styles: traditional white Rioja. Sauvignon Blanc also yields superb dessert wines, as the luscious 2001 and 2002 Robert Mondavi Winery Sauvignon Blanc Botrytis proved. Hard to find but definitely worth checking out if you get the chance. Once in Napa, you’ll find that leaving is not an easy thing. In consultation with my personal wellness coach and a team of physicians, we concluded that going cold turkey was not the proper thing to do. A gradual weaning off Napa required a brief side trip through neighbouring Sonoma County.
A tad less flashy, perhaps a bit more relaxed, but every inch as gorgeous as sister Napa, Sonoma is less Cab-centric. That said, a taste of the sumptuous 2013 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Reserve from Clos du Bois — an environmentally conscious winery where solar panels provide 85 percent of its electrical needs — and the beautifully complex 2010 Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Reserve certainly proved she could toe the Cab line in an elegant, stylish and perhaps more user-friendly way than neighbouring Napa. If Napa models the ballroom gown, Sonoma flaunts in skinny jeans. Okay, that analogy is lame, inaccurate and very possibly sexist. Still, I hope it gives you a general idea of two different but equally attractive personalities. Right, then, time to move along. Ravenswood Winery winemaker, Joel Peterson’s white Tesla Model S is a thing of beauty as it silently glides to a stop outside the tasting room where inside, something equally beautiful awaits in the guise of nine single-vineyard Zinfandels. If “No Wimpy Wines” is going to be your winery’s motto (as it is with Ravenswood), staking your claim as a Zinfandel specialist is likely a good enough place to start. “All these wines are made in an almost identical way,” Peterson pointed out,
“What accounts for the difference in profile and taste has everything to do with the location of the vineyards.” From the Dickerson Vineyard, through the Big River, Belloni, Barricia, Old Hill and Teldeschi — the tasting of wines, all made from the 2013 harvest, was a clinic in Zinfandel nuances. Then things really got interesting. The question “does Zinfandel improve with age?” was answered in the affirmative, thanks to the 2004 and 1996 Old Hill Vineyard — the vineyard itself being planted around 1880. At about the same moment when I figured Zin couldn’t get much better, Peterson slipped a glass of the 1999 Monte Rosso under my nose. To say I’ve never quite experienced a Zinfandel like this would be a major understatement. If I hadn’t known what I was tasting, I would have possibly mistaken it for a top-level Burgundian Pinot Noir. Fragrant and floral with cedar, sandalwood and raspberry nuances, it slid across my palate in waves of viscous, sweet black raspberry, Morello cherry compote and cocoa. Wow. As I headed towards the Ravenswood on-site retail store to bag some of this ambrosia, I experienced perhaps the only disappointing moment of my whole Napa/ Sonoma excursion: the shop was closed. ×
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by Duncan Holmes
I DON’T KNOW HOW IT IS AT YOUR PLACE, but we have stuff in the bottom of the freezer that I’m willing to bet has been sitting there for a frosty decade. Maybe even longer? Accuse us of atrocious kitchen management, but stick with me for a minute and I’ll try to make a point about “small food” — a partner story to the “small things” stories peppered throughout Quench this month. We bought this freezer because a friend of a friend said she had a line on some organic beef, lovingly grown by a farmer in the Fraser Valley. We would share a quarter of a side, all cut, aged, wrapped, identified and dated. Steaks, roasts, ribs, chuck, ground — freeze it and use it whenever. For a long time, our plates were loaded with home-grown Hereford protein. But, as happens, sometimes we grilled, broiled, roasted, simmered or sautéed too much of our bovine find, and what was left over went back into the freezer for another great meal another day. Then the seasons changed, and the rhubarb came on, stalking tall in our spring garden. Pies happened. Many of them. We ate one or two with ice cream and thick, sweet custard. The rest went into the freezer on top of the last of the frosty beef and our often-undated leftovers. In summer came a tidal wave of tomatoes. We ate the first of them in sandwiches dripping with mayo, then cooked them up into sauces as accompaniments for pasta. Many more were slow-roasted on cookie sheets with salt, pepper and fresh basil, then packed flat into plastic bags and piled on top of the rhubarb pies, leftovers and now-forgotten beef. Friends, family and food bank? Thanks very much, but we’re long on tomatoes. Frosty beef ? Sounds wonderful but, sorry, we’re vegans. The fridge was not yet full. Two-for-the-price-of-one ice cream? Let’s get four. We’ll have it with the rhubarb pies. Family packs of chicken breasts? Sure. Remains of that splendid chowder? Fill a plastic container or three and poke them into the corners. And so on, until the harvest was in, and winter, colder than the coldest corner of the full freezer, numbed us solid. You’ve likely noticed that — for any number of good reasons — there’s a wave of “living with less” going on across the land
right now. Really tiny houses, furnished with nothing more than is really needed or will fit, are popping up. Cash-strapped millennials and others are saying that less is affordable and less is okay. Minimalists are more into needs than wants. Wants may offer tonnes of eye-popping features, but a lot less benefits. And what about food? Small food doesn’t mean meals of broiled Brussels sprouts, or sardines instead of snapper — all prepped in an Easy-Bake Oven. But it can mean a diet where less is cooked, where portions are smaller, where there is less waste, where the nutritional benefits we’re looking for come with quality and variety. Not the quantity that makes plates groan, gets scraped into the garbage or goes back into plastic containers to again be forgotten in the freezer. I have the luxury of being able to buy very small quantities of food almost every day. It means that I get to know the market departments well. I engage the meat and seafood people in conversation, and relish their knowledge; I do the same in produce and dairy. I go home knowing that most everything I have bought will be eaten in that evening’s meal. I know that Quench readers cleverly visualize how what they are buying will be presented on the plate. It’s part of the shopping adventure. While consideration can be given to staples and seasonal deals, less and smaller is a satisfying way to go. As the year began, we resolved to work our way through the freezer. We did this knowing that while many things it contained might be a touch “burnt,” they went in there as good food, which was readily accessible and should be eaten. Another resolution was that small food, whether it be a crudité platter of snappy vegetables and yummy dips, or a whole meal now and then of totally delicious apps, would be a bigger part of our dining lives than the meat, potatoes and everything else that was part of yesterday’s norm. Small, when it’s small servings with a big taste, really is beautiful. Now, if you will excuse me, I will check out that last package of beef at the bottom of the freezer. Marked “chuck,” it could be the start of a small, hearty stew — with no leftovers. Followed by the final one of last season’s rhubarb pies. After all, spring is with us, and the new crop is stalking skyward. MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 43
CLASSIC CRAB CAKES
Small, yes, but mighty filling. Lemon wedges and hot pepper sauce are the ideal accompaniments, along with steamed green beans and potato salad to round out the meal.
1/3 cup mayonnaise 3/4 tsp Old Bay or other seafood seasoning 200 g crab meat, picked over and patted dry (about 1 cup) 2/3 cup saltine cracker crumbs (about 16 crackers) 1/4 cup green onions, minced 1/4 cup red bell pepper, minced 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1. In a medium bowl, mix together the mayonnaise and
seasoning. Add the crab meat, 1/3 cup of the cracker crumbs, green onions and bell pepper. Mix carefully to avoid breaking up the crab meat. 2. Form the mixture into 4 1/2-inch-thick patties. Place the remaining 1/3 cup cracker crumbs in a shallow bowl. Press the crab cakes into the crumbs, coating completely. (Can be prepared 3 hours ahead, covered and refrigerated.) 3. In a heavy, non-stick skillet, heat the oil on medium. 4. Fry the crab cakes until brown and crisp, about 6 minutes per side. Remove crab cakes from the pan and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately. MATCH: Serve with a bright Viognier.
SWEET LIME CHICKEN
I don’t think there’s a recipe in the world with the word “lime” in the title that doesn’t make you at least look at it. Lime is one of the cleverest little numbers in the whole flavour family, and it’s as versatile as any in the colourful group of citrons. Serve this dish with rice, plus a green and a red vegetable.
2 1/2 1 1 1 1 1
chicken breasts cup dry white wine tbsp orange juice tbsp pineapple juice tsp fresh basil, chopped tbsp brown sugar lime Fresh-ground pepper Slices of pineapple Unsalted butter
1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. 2. Butter the bottom of a shallow baking dish. Skin the chicken
breasts and place smooth-side up in the dish. Pour the wine and the juices overtop, then top the chicken with basil, brown sugar and a liberal sprinkling of fresh-ground pepper. 3. Place slices of pineapple on top of the chicken. Halve the lime and squeeze as much juice as you can over the chicken. During cooking, leave the halves of the limes with the chicken to add more flavour. 4. Cover the dish loosely with a piece of foil and bake for 2 hours. Remove the foil, then bake for about 20 more minutes, until the chicken is golden brown. If desired, you can 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
add more pineapple juice to the gravy, then thicken it with about a teaspoon of cornstarch mixed with cold water. Add a parsley garnish.
SWEET AND SOUR ONION SALAD
Lots of taste in this recipe. Primarily from Provence, with influences from other corners of the Mediterranean. Sorry, but I’ve never found an easy way to peel baby onions. However, the battle is worth it.
450 1/4 3 3 3 1 2 1/2
g baby onions, peeled cup wine vinegar tbsp olive oil tbsp icing sugar tbsp tomato purée bay leaf sprigs parsley cup raisins Salt and ground black pepper
Place all of the ingredients in a smallish saucepan with 1 1/4 cups water. Bring to a boil and simmer gently, uncovered for 45 minutes, or until the onions are tender and most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove the bay leaf and parsley, check the seasoning and transfer to a serving dish. Let cool and serve at room temperature.
LAMB NOISETTES
I once made these on a TV show and earned myself a food processor. Sadly, this prize failed to function after its first, or second, use.
115 g boneless, skinless rack of lamb (loin), trimmed of all silverskin and fat 1 lemon 1 Russet or other baking potato, peeled 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 tbsp shallots, minced 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped (save tips for garnish) 1 egg white Clarified butter Salt and ground pepper 1. Squeeze a little lemon juice into a bowl of cold water. Grate the potato and add to the bowl. 2. Cut the lamb into 6 noisettes. Season with salt and pepper. 3. In a hot pan, sauté the noisettes for 30 to 40 seconds each side. Set aside. 4. Drain the grated potato and squeeze dry with your hands. Return potato to the bowl. Mix in the garlic, shallots, rosemary, salt and pepper, to taste. 5. In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg white. Dip each noisette in the egg white, then coat with potato mixture, mostly on the bottom. 6. Heat a generous amount of clarified butter in a heavy skillet. Carefully lift the potato-covered pieces of lamb into the hot pan. 7. Sauté until the potato is golden brown. Remove the noisettes from the pan and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.
POLPETTES
Delicious little fried morsels of potato and feta cheese, flavoured with dill and lemon juice.
500 15 4 3 1 1 3
g potatoes g feta cheese spring onions, chopped tbsp fresh dill, chopped egg, beaten tbsp lemon juice Salt and ground pepper Flour for dredging tbsp olive oil
1. Boil the potatoes in their skins in light-
ly salted water until soft. Drain, then peel while still warm. Place in a bowl and mash. 2. Crumble the feta cheese into the potatoes and add the spring onion, dill, egg and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. (Feta is salty, so taste before you add too much salt!) Mix well. 3. Cover the mixture and chill until firm. Roll chilled pieces into walnut-sized balls, then flatten them slightly. Dredge the polpettes in the flour. 4. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat and fry the polpettes until golden brown on each side. Remove the polpettes and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately. MATCH: Time for a South African Sauvignon Blanc.
HOT ARTICHOKE DIP
A distinctive, rich taste, this is a great way to begin, or make a meal.
1 kg artichoke hearts, drained and chopped 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, freshly grated 1 cup prepared mayonnaise (1/3 mayo, 1/3 no fat sour cream, 1/3 skim milk yogurt) 1/4–1/2 tsp salt 1/2 clove garlic, crushed Juice from half a fresh lemon Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Mix together all of the ingredients in an ovenproof dish. Bake for 10 minutes or until hot. Serve with an assortment of crackers or a thinly sliced fresh baguette. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 45
WASTED by Joanne Will
ACCORDING TO THE FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION (FAO) OF THE UNITED NATIONS, APPROXIMATELY ONE THIRD OF ALL FOOD PRODUCED FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION GOES TO WASTE. As much as we fetishize
food in North America, we also waste an incredible amount. One of the big paradoxes of our time is that, despite alarming global hunger statistics, the FAO found we throw out an estimated 1.3 billion tonnes of food annually — four times the amount required to feed the world’s 795 million hungriest people. In Canada, a 2014 report by Value Chain Management International Inc pegged the annual value of food waste across the country at $31 billion. And it’s not just food that’s wasted, it’s also the labour, energy, machinery and natural resources required to produce, store and transport it. Then there’s the impact on the environment. “When you look at food waste globally, if it was a country, it would be third in terms of greenhouse gas emissions behind China and the United States. So, it’s a huge climate change issue. There are emissions all the way along the path, from production — particularly for things like beef that are very greenhouse gas intensive — all the way through to disposal,” says JoAnne Berkenkamp, Senior Advocate with the Food and Agriculture Program of the US Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). In North America, the largest piece of the food waste pie, by value, occurs in households, followed by grocery stores, restaurants and institutional food service like hospitals, colleges and universities. Much of our household waste is due to spoiled produce, languishing unused in refrigerators. We buy in mass quantities at warehouse-style supermarkets that offer super-size shopping carts and too-good-to-be-true deals, which means we often overbuy. Since we’ve grown accustomed to abundance, we also tend to take it for granted. Nowadays, we waste about 50 percent more food than in the 1970s. “What we found in our research is people are often extremely conscious of the cost of food when they purchase it, but they’re oblivious to the cost when they throw it out. The average family of four spends $1,500 a year on food that they throw out,” says Berkenkamp. A number of factors contribute to that. “People often purchase more than they can eat. And that’s driven by things like 55 percent of grocery purchases in the US are impulse buys, which is to say a person didn’t have an intention about what they were going to buy when they got there. They’re shopping without a list. It’s also driven by two-for-one deals, and very large pack sizes of things. Boxes of lettuce that are three times what a fam46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
ily can use but it looks really cheap, so people are motivated by the prospect of getting a good deal to purchase more than they can utilize,” says Berkenkamp. Busy lifestyles are another factor. “We tend to be aspirational shoppers in the grocery store: we want to have more variety in our diet, we want to try new recipes, we want to get the healthy options, we don’t want to run out, we want to get something all the members of our household will like. We’re maybe trying to accommodate kids that have really different schedules so we’re planning for multiple meals, maybe even in a given evening to accommodate family member’s schedules. All of those things tend to spur us to purchase and prepare more food than we can eat.” Confusion over date labels and how to store food also has an effect. “In the research we did for the Ad Council’s ‘Save The Food’ campaign, we had researchers go into people’s homes and to the grocery store with them, and look in their refrigerator and their trash, and keep food waste diaries. We’d see things on the shelf that belong in the fridge and vice versa. Refrigerators at too high of a temperature, or milk being pulled out and left on the dinner table for an hour or two per day, which raises the temperature and causes it to not last as long. Things like fruits needs to be at a low humidity so they belong in the low-humidity crisper drawer, whereas vegetables need higher humidity and they belong in the other drawer. Things like that are not widely understood.” Nor, says Berkenkamp, is the fact that produce should not be stored in the bags that it’s typically purchased in. “Most fruits and vegetables need to breathe, so if you store [something] tied up in a plastic bag, you’re going to get condensation in there, and more moisture, and it will not last as long as it otherwise might.” Other waste occurs in restaurants and at retail food businesses: the leftovers on our plates due to oversize portions we can’t finish, or produce discarded because it doesn’t look cosmetically perfect — even though it might be perfectly fine to eat. SOME GOOD NEWS IS THAT FOOD WASTE IS RAPIDLY BECOMING A SUBCULTURE OF HAUTE CUISINE, WITH A TRICKLE-DOWN EFFECT TO HOME COOKS. Chefs and
restaurants are providing inspiration about the possibilities for dishes that can be created with what we may be overlooking in our own refrigerators. American chef and author Dan Barber took his popular popup restaurant wasteED across the pond to Selfridges in London this spring, for a dining experience even notorious curmudgeon Oscar the Grouch would have loved. wastED highlights edible ingredients that are often discarded or rejected, turning them
into delicious dishes made from the likes of broccoli stalks, the ribs of kale leaves and fish bones. Food rescue programs also make a dent in waste by gathering food that would otherwise be binned and redistributing it to food banks and shelters. There’s even Transfernation, an “Uber for food rescue” organization based in New York City that uses an app to connect those who can transport leftover food to those who can use it. Others, such as Tristram Stuart, founder of the UK charity Feedback and author of Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal, are educating consumers with campaigns such as ‘Feeding the 5000.’ At each event, a communal feast for 5,000 people is served, made entirely from food that would otherwise have been wasted. Stuart has also created Toast Ale, beer made using surplus bread that was destined for a landfill. So, what can average consumers and households do to reduce waste? Plenty. Plan meals, shop with a list, ignore “best before” dates, educate yourself and family members on how to store and use produce. The Waste Free Kitchen Handbook by Dana Gunders, a staff scientist and food-waste fighter at the NRDC, provides a plethora of tips. As does the site savethefood.com. Another suggestion is to adopt some fresh thinking, and stop discarding food you previously considered inedible. Using leftovers or overlooked ingredients can be a boon to creativity. On a recent particularly empty refrigerator day, necessity drove me to take the skin of a kabocha squash, which had been roasted previously and the innards used to make soup, and chop and fold it into an omelette. The sweet, nutty flavour of the squash-skin omelette turned out to be delicious change from my usual onion/ mushroom/spinach combinations. To help realize the full extent of what we can do with the food we have in our homes, there are websites, columns and cookbooks focused on how to make meals with kitchen scraps. Food52’s Lindsay-Jean Hard’s biweekly column highlights recipes that include scraps (for example, homemade celery salt-crusted baked potatoes, and a soup that uses stale cornbread). Hard is currently working on a cookbook focused on cooking from scraps, due out from Workman Publishing in early 2018. When it comes to treating food with respect, our food culture also plays a role. “Clearly the primary driver in the US is that people feel badly about wasting money. The second thing they regret about wasting food is that they know that there are people that don’t have enough to eat. So, there is some moral argument to be made. There is some data that asked parents in particular how they felt about food waste, and they said that one of the motivators was that they wanted to set a good example for their kids. Most surveys don’t ask that question, so you don’t see it in the data. But Johns Hopkins University did a national survey in the US in the last 12 months, and they got some really interesting data. One of their observations was that parents didn’t want to set a bad example for kids, so I think that’s something to be leveraged,” says Berkenkamp. Educating ourselves and the next generations on the value of food, where it comes from and the resources required to produce it, seems key to reducing waste. As Senegalese engineer and environmentalist Baba Dioum once said, “In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.” × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 47
by Gail Kavanagh
FIVE THINGS TO GROW IF YOU LOVE TO COOK ASIAN FOOD AT HOME, but have trouble tracking down authentic herbs, you can buy the seeds online and grow decorative, tasty Asian herbs in your own garden. This selection will help replicate dishes from Vietnam, Thailand and other Asian countries
THAI MINT
This fragrant plant, called saranae in Thailand, is the most deliciously sweet and intense member of the mint family. The leaves are hairless, with a smaller, more rounded shape than common mint. Like most mints, this plant also tends to spread if not planted in a container, but it stays closer to the ground, and consequently makes good ground cover. It is easy to cultivate. The seeds can be purchased from many Asian seed suppliers online, and some nurseries also have seedlings that can be planted out. Thai mint can be planted in a pot or in its own part of the garden so it can spread out, and needs sun and water to thrive. Otherwise it will look after itself. Thai mint has many uses in Asian cooking. Thai mint can be picked, washed and added to salads just as it is, or chopped and sprinkled over coleslaw and potato salad. Thai mint can also be added to soups, omelets and stir fries, and can be substituted in recipes where common mint is used, such as mint sauce and mint tea. 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
THAI BASIL
This is similar to European sweet basil in many ways, but it has a more liquorice flavour and can be included in slow cooking recipes without losing its strength. Also known as horapha, Thai basil is a decorative and graceful plant, with purple stems and spearhead shaped sage-green leaves, more understated than the large shiny green leaves of regular basil. It needs to be planted in a sunny spot, and not over watered. Harvest Thai basil from the top of the plant so it grows into an abundant bush of leaves. Thai basil can be used in dishes where regular basil is used, creating deeper flavours in pizza sauce and pesto. As it is such an abundant plant, it can also be used as a side vegetable or in stir fries.
LEMONGRASS
Elegant, slender lemongrass is a beautiful feature plant in your garden as well as an aromatic ingredient in Asian cooking. Planted singly or in groups or rows, lemongrass grows into a graceful grassy bush over three feet high, Lemongrass thrives in full sun and humidity, as it naturally grows in tropical climates. The sharp citrus flavour really does impart a lemon tang to the dishes in which it is used and it is a regular feature in Asian soups and seafood dishes. Anywhere you use lemons in cooking you can use lemongrass. But be warned — harvesting lemongrass is
a tricky business. You can cut the long grassy stems and use them for making lemongrass tea, but it is the tiny white heart of the bulbous stem that you need for most recipes. To prepare for cooking, cut off the tip of the white bulb and most of the tough green stem. You will peel off a lot of tough fibre before you reach the tiny soft part that is your goal. Otherwise, you can treat the white bulb like a garlic clove and press it with a knife blade to release the flavours. The bulb and pieces of stem can be used to infuse milk, make tea or add lemon flavour to other dishes. It is a tough-textured plant and does not soften in cooking, so it is usually just added for flavour and removed before serving. The easiest way is to tie the pieces of stem and grassy leaves into a piece of muslin before adding it to your cooking. Then it can be quickly removed.
GALANGAL
This rhizome is a member of the ginger family, but has a sharper, stronger, more fiery flavour. Shaped something like an eagle claw, galangal is popular in South East Asia, and an ingredient in red curry paste and satay. Like ginger, the edible rhizome grows beneath the ground, and like ginger, you can start a galangal plant from a piece of the rhizome. The plant needs sun, well drained soil and prefers tropical conditions. In cooler climates, it can be grown in a greenhouse or poly-tunnel. As a garden plant, it is elegant and decorative with tropical white flowers. Preparation for cooking is similar to ginger. Cut, peel and grate the rhizome, before added the grated material to soups. curries, satays or marinades. It can be thinly sliced and added to fruit and vegetable salads, and imparts a fresh zingy flavour to fish and meat dishes. It is not recommended as a substitute for ginger in sweet dishes like gingerbread.
CORIANDER
This is a beautiful, leafy plant that looks pretty in the garden or in pots and enjoys cooler conditions than most Asian herbs prefer as well as in the warmer months. Coriander can be grown from seed or seedlings, and likes regular watering in a well drained soil. Coriander is also known as cilantro, and is a popular ingredient in most parts of the world as well as Asia. In Asia, it can be used as a vegetable or as an herb. One of the nicest ways to enjoy coriander is to steam long sprigs with a vegetable like carrots or parsnips. Just snip off the leaves or stalks as you need them and the plant will continue to produce. Coriander can be added to soups, stir fries, curries and salads. Coriander is an important ingredient in delicious Vietnamese pork rolls, and without it these rolls would just not taste authentic. There are many other Asian herbs and spices you can add to your Asian cooking, but with these five basic herbs, you can create many dishes with an authentic Asian flavour right out of your own garden. × MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 49
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
SUMMERTIME AND THE LIVING IS EASY
This summer, I’m going to uncomplicate my life SCALLOP AND POTATO SALAD VINAIGRETTE and make room for the things I really enjoy: This may yield more than you need for the salad. Store remaining walks with my beau as well as my feisty schnoo- vinaigrette in fridge up to one week. dle Molly, picnics and pyjama parties with my world’s-greatest grandkids, a posh tea party 1 clove garlic, minced with my longtime friends, yoga at the vine 1/3 cup white balsamic vinegar yard where they give you a mimosa at the end 1 tsp sugar of class, a backyard garden well tended and 1/2 tsp salt brilliant with colour and, best of all, simple and Freshly ground pepper, to taste satisfying food cooked with love for my family. 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil SCALLOP AND POTATO SALAD 10 1 1
In a jar, shake garlic, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Add olive oil and shake again.
small new potatoes Butter and olive oil lb sea scallops bunch asparagus or green beans, trimmed Salad greens Vinaigrette, recipe follows
1. Cut potatoes into cubes. Cook in boiling water for about
SWEET AND SPICY APRICOT CHICKEN THIGHS
SERVES 4 Sweet and spicy is always a good match for chicken thighs. Use orange marmalade instead of the apricot preserves, if you’d like. For 2 different versions, toss the chicken with hoisin sauce and a sprinkle of Sriracha or maple syrup and a sprinkle of tabasco sauce.
5 minutes. 2. Melt 1 tbsp butter with 1 tbsp olive oil in large skillet; transfer potatoes to skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté about 5 minutes or until lightly browned and tender. Remove from skillet and keep warm. 3. Melt 1 tbsp butter with 1 tbsp olive oil. Sauté scallops until cooked through. 4. Meanwhile, cook asparagus or green beans in small amount of water in microwave until just tender. 5. Arrange salad greens on 4 plates. Top with potatoes, scallops and asparagus or green beans. Drizzle with vinaigrette. MATCH: Serve with Riesling. 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
8 1/2 2 2 1/2
bone-in chicken thighs Olive oil Salt, to taste cup apricot preserves tbsp rice vinegar tbsp soy sauce tsp Sriracha
1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Rub chicken thighs with olive oil. Salt. Place in roasting pan that has been coated with cooking spray. Roast, uncovered, 20 minutes.
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3. Meanwhile, in small bowl, mix preserves, vinegar, soy sauce and Sriracha sauce. 4. Brush glaze on chicken and roast 10 to 15 minutes longer or until chicken is cooked through. MATCH: It’s time for a Gewürztraminer.
SLOW COOKER BEEF SANDWICHES
SERVES 6 Although we often think of the slow cooker as our go-to appliance for winter stews, it can turn out delicious, meltingly tender beef for sandwiches. I sometimes make sandwich rolls in the bread machine alongside this, or you can purchase ciabatta rolls.
1 1 2 1 1/2 1 1/4 1 6
large onion, sliced kg beef bottom round roast cloves garlic, minced tsp dried thyme tsp pepper cups beef broth tbsp Worcestershire sauce ciabatta rolls
1. Place onion slices in slow cooker. Place beef on top of onions. Sprinkle with garlic, thyme and pepper. 2. Add broth, 1/2 cup water and Worcestershire sauce. Cover and cook on low 8 to 9 hours. 3. Transfer meat to cutting board. Thinly slice across grain. Divide meat among ciabatta rolls. If desired, top with cooked onions. Serve with juices on the side. MATCH: Uncork a Malbec.
EASY SAUSAGE AND RIGATONI
SERVES 4 I like to make this with a combination of hot and sweet Italian sausage. If you’d like, you can chop the sausage into bite-sized pieces, but I prefer to keep it whole and cut it as I eat.
450 g Italian sausage, hot, mild or a combo 2 tbsp olive oil 1 sweet red bell pepper, chopped 1 small sweet red onion, chopped 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped with scissors in can 6 large leaves basil 1 bay leaf 1 box rigatoni, cooked 1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. In oven-proof skillet, brown sausage in 1 tbsp oil on the
cooktop. Add a small amount of water and roast sausage, uncovered, in oven 20 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in separate skillet, sauté pepper, onion, garlic and mushrooms until tender in remaining 1 tbsp oil. 4. Transfer vegetables to skillet in oven. Add tomatoes, basil and bay leaf. Cover and cook 20 minutes.
5. Remove basil leaves and bay leaf. Serve sausage with a side of rigatoni, all smothered in vegetables and sauce. MATCH: Great with Chianti.
TEX-MEX BLACK BEAN SALAD
A great vegetarian salad for hot summer evenings. I prefer lemon juice with my Tex-Mex food, but lime juice is more authentic. This is also good on top of cooked brown rice or quinoa. For extra protein, add cooked chicken, pork or beef.
1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 4
can black beans, rinsed and drained cups corn, cooked and removed from cob cups grape tomatoes, halved avocados, halved, pitted and chopped cup cilantro, chopped green onions, thinly sliced Broken tortilla chips, for garnish
TEX-MEX VINAIGRETTE
1/3 1 1/4 1/4 2/3
cup fresh lemon or lime juice tsp sugar tsp chili powder (or more, to taste) tsp red pepper flakes, crushed cup extra virgin olive oil
1. In a jar, combine lime juice, sugar, chili powder and red pepper. Shake. Add olive oil and shake again. 2. Arrange black beans, corn, tomatoes, avocado, cilantro and green onions in rows on 4 plates. 3. Drizzle with Tex-Mex Vinaigrette and garnish with tortilla chips.
PEACH CRUMBLE FOR 2
As peaches come to the market, you may find yourself with more ripe peaches than you can eat. That’s the time to try this peach crumble. To peel peaches, drop into boiling water for a few seconds. Cool before peeling. Bake the crumble in individual ramekins. I’ve added chopped fresh strawberries or dried cranberries. The crumble goes well with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt.
3 ripe peaches, peeled and diced 2 tbsp sugar Sprinkle of cinnamon TOPPING
2 1 1 1
tbsp flour tbsp brown sugar tbsp rolled oats tbsp melted butter
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a bowl, mix peaches with sugar and cinnamon. 3. Spray 2 to 3 individual ramekins with buttery cooking spray.
Add peaches. 4. In small bowl, mix topping ingredients. Pat on top of peaches. 5. Bake, uncovered, 30 minutes or until peaches are tender and bubbly. ×
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NOTED 91 PENFOLDS BIN 128 SHIRAZ 2014, COONAWARRA, AUSTRALIA ($34.95)
The cooler Coonawarra climate (cooler than Barossa) gives this Shiraz a distinctive elegance. Dense purple in colour, the nose offers herbs and blackberry aromas backed by vanilla/sandalwood oak notes. The medium- to full-bodied wine is dry and savoury, juicy with a minty-floral note on the finish. (TA)
92 HENRY OF PELHAM VIDAL ICEWINE 2015, NIAGARA ($25/200 ML)
94 CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING LIEU-DIT MUEHLFORST 2014, AC ALSACE, FRANCE ($16.50)
Quite thick and viscous with a nose of apricot, mango, sweet pear and honey. Lovely texture shows off the ripe apricot, tropical fruits, compoted peach and pear with a creamy finish. An exotic expression of Vidal. (RV)
90 PLANTER’S RIDGE L’ACADIE 2015, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($20)
Pure fresh green fruit and subtle floral scents play through in the mouth with equally crisp and pure fruit in a light-bodied, finely balanced package. Shows simple elegance, best paired with lighter fare, especially simply prepared fish and shellfish. (SW)
91 CORNELLANA RESERVE SHIRAZ 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($11.33)
Opaquely deep plum red. Medium-intensity nose includes black pepper, vanilla and strawberry aromas with a hint of eucalyptus. Medium bodied with juicy cherry flavours that are still unintegrated with the acids and tannins — needs more time, will improve for a couple of years. Good value. (RL)*
52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
Clear medium-deep gold. Generous and complex nose includes pear, McIntosh apple, peach, honey and grapefruit. Full bodied and velvety with sweetness and tartness in good balance. Tastes of peaches, lime and tart apple. Good now but will keep for a few years. (RL)*
93 PAINTED ROCK SYRAH 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
Very varietally-correct meaty, gamy notes and earthy hints precede a superbly structured but not overt or extracted palate. Defined by well-integrated, supple tannins underneath a core of focused blackberry fruits. Persistent pepper notes precede an elegant, spicy and complex finish, deftly poised between Old World and New. (TP)
90 ROCCA SVEVA AMARONE RISERVA 2011 ($80)
The flagship label of Cantina di Soave, aged in large barriques for at least 24 months. Sweet fruit with black cherry and vanilla on the nose, followed by a plush and plummy palate in a more modern style. Easy tannins with hints of balsamic and glycerol on the finish. (TP)
92 LOUIS JADOT BEAUNE BOUCHEROTTES 2013, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($67.95)
Ruby colour with an earthy spicy nose of raspberry and truffles; medium bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured with a long, lingering finish. Hold for 5 years at least. (TA)
MICROBRASSERIE CHARLEVOIX DOMINUS VOBISCUM LUPULUS, QUEBEC ($11.75)
Brewmaster Frédérick Tremblay rejected American hops — until he discovered a blend that transformed his famous Belgian-style tripel into a Champagne-like tipple — drinks like spring in a glass. A shoo-in with grilled sausages. (CL)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/thenotes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Crystal Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 93 ROAD 13 SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($46)
A platinum award-winner at the BC Wine Awards, this is consistently one of Canada’s top sparkling wines showing fresh apple, citrus and spice with racy acidity and a long finish. (GB)
93 PIERRE GIMONNET & FILS CHAMPAGNE SPECIAL CLUB 2008, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($120)
Special Club (Club Trésors) is an invite-only group of 28 grower Champagne vignerons, recognized for the quality of their wines. A Special Club Champagne is different from their other cuvées, can only be made in outstanding vintage years, and is packaged in the special distinctive bottle. Based in the Côte des Blancs, this producer is known for its pristine and focused Chardonnay, sourced from grand and 1er cru vineyards (some 80+ years old) in Cramant, Chouilly Mont Aigu, and their home village of Cuis. With 7 years on the lees (this was disgorged July 23, 2015), the breadth on the palate is foremost, though easily and seamlessly woven with the crystalline Chardonnay. Broken stones, subtle herbs and spiced pastry are brightened with lemon blossoms and driving pith. Very finessed, more ample
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
than their other wines; showing great depth and length at this stage, but will continue to be cellar-worthy. (TR)
92 GASPEREAU VINEYARDS BLANC DE NOIRS 2010, NOVA SCOTIA ($50)
Noir. Very light rose coloured, it offers enticing red berry scents with aromas of creamy brioche. Delicate red berry-fruit flavours come in a soft, creamy palate with lovely persistent mousse and refreshing, but harmonious, acidity. (SW)
This 100% Pinot Noir Traditional Method sparkler was sourced from a single vineyard in the Bear River region of Nova Scotia. Showing a burnished copper hue it offers striking, though subtle, developed red berry-fruit with enticing brioche and light smoky scents. Delicate berry-fruit comes through on the elegantly creamy palate with fine mousse, firm mineral backbone and interesting smoky notes lingering on the finish. (SW)
91 MAVERICK ESTATE ELLA METHODE TRADITIONELLE 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
91 CASA NUEVA LUMINOS BRUT ROSÉ NV, CURICÓ VALLEY, CHILE ($13.50)
91 LAHERTE FRÈRES ULTRADITION BRUT CHAMPAGNE NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($48.95)
91 DOMAINE J LAURENS ROSÉ NO 7 CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX, FRANCE ($30)
91 SUMMERHILL ARIEL 1998, OKANAGAN ($92)
Pink with a tinge of orange, pétillant rather than foamy. Light nose of strawberry, with citrus and a bit of instant coffee. On the palate, it tastes of more strawberries with lemony acidity. A fruity, easy-drinking, lightly sweet crowd-pleaser. Drink up. (RL)*
Limoux Appellation laws changed in 2003 to permit Pinot Noir. This one is an intriguing blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc together with 15% Pinot
From one of the south Okanagan’s rising stars. Whole bunch-pressed primary fermentation, back blended with the previous vintage of Chardonnay. Pale salmon in the glass, floral perfume; some strawberry on top before red fruit and slightly chalky palate through a well-textured finish. (TP)
An unusual blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. Pale straw in colour with a minerally, apple, brioche nose; fresh and lively on the palate with great length and just a touch of bitterness on the finish to give character. (TA)
Released 2012. “It took way longer than we thought it would,” says Summerhill’s Ezra Cipes. Made from 59% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 1% Pinot Meunier; intense yeasty, bready aromas precede MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED a palate of orchard fruit and creaminess with a rich, evolving core of toastiness and minerality. (TP)
90 JANSZ PREMIUM CUVÉE SPARKLING WHITE, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA ($26.95)
Pale straw in colour with a minerally, tobacco-leaf and citrus bouquet; light- to medium-bodied on the palate, crisply dry with a lemony digestive biscuit flavour. Great length. (TA)
89 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ VINTAGE BRUT TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING WINE 2009, NOVA SCOTIA ($36.44)
A blend of l’Acadie Blanc and Seyval Blanc, this bottle-fermented bubble is aged on the lees for 4 years. Showing bright green/gold in the glass with lively persistent fine mousse, it boasts aromatic honeysuckle, apple, pear and a touch of vanilla spiciness. Creamy and rounded in the mouth with flavours of grapefruit citrus and orchard fruit, it finishes with good mineral grip and zesty acidity. (SW)
88 DOMAINE J LAURENS LE MOULIN MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE BRUT BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX AOC, FRANCE ($26.50)
Pronounced yellow straw/gold colour with soft scents of ripe grapefruit citrus. Citrus and pear flavours come with rich creamy mousse, rounding out with a lick of caramel sweetness and contrasting fresh acidity. (SW)
WHITE AUSTRALIA 88 MCWILLIAM’S HANWOOD ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2015, NEW SOUTH WALES ($17.99)
Opens with scents of ripe peach, citrus and tropical fruit with a whiff of vanilla. Lightly buttery lemon-citrus flavours lead off on the palate with balanced acidity and a harmoniously integrated touch of oak on the finish. (SW) 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
AUSTRIA 89 RABL LANGENLOIS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2015, KAMPTAL ($15)
I’m a great fan of Austria’s Grüner Veltliner – a dry white wine that can match a variety of dishes. Pale straw in colour, it has Grüner Veltliner’s characteristic nose of white pepper and green peach. This wine is medium bodied, dry, beautifully balanced, with apple and pear flavours and a great mouthfeel. It’s the kind of white wine that improves with bottle age. (TA)
CANADA 93 SPERLING OLD VINE RIESLING 2011, OKANAGAN ($28)
An extraordinary interplay of lemon-lime citrus and mineral undertones; hints of diesel with a precise, keen stony core and juicy acidity that lingers well beyond the close. (TP)
93 SOUTHBROOK POETICA CHARDONNAY 2013, NIAGARA ($50) The fruit is farmed organically and biodynamically and French oak aging is in 70% new barrels. Simply gorgeous: a terroir-driven nose of profound flinty minerality, ripe pear, apple skin, lemon and fine-integrated oak nuances. Pure elegance on the palate, a lithe and impeccably balanced Chardonnay that brings a range of pear, apple and citrus together with hazelnut, lovely spice notes and minerals. (RV)
92 LITTLE FARM RIESLING 2015, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($25.99)
From washed limestone soils, mineral and floral top yields to chalky-stony notes underpinned by a taut citrus core and good length, wrapped in juicy acidity before a slightly zesty close. (TP)
92 TANTALUS OLD VINES RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($31) Green apple and pronounced mineral on top evolve into a structured, broad palate underpinned by firm vibrant acidity and minerality. Still youthful with definite aging potential. (TP)
92 CHECKMATE QUEEN TAKEN CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($125)
BC’s most expensive Chardonnay to date is made from old vines near Oliver, planted in 1975, with a modified double-curtain canopy. Honey, toast and citrus on top, followed by an elegant, plush palate with barrel notes on a textured, well-structured palate through a lingering, complex ending. (TP)
91 CEDARCREEK PINOT GRIS 2015, OKANAGAN ($17.99) A blend of 92% Pinot Gris with 6% Gewürztraminer and 2% Riesling yields a more complex and layered expression. Honey and orchard fruits on top before a juicy, lively, fruit-driven palate with peach, pear and clove-spice hints. Good weight and a lingering finish. (TP)
91 LEGENDS ESTATE WINERY PINOT GRIS RESERVE 2015, NIAGARA ($18)
This Gris shows a bronze colour in the glass from 48 hours of skin contact. The nose reveals notes of apple pie, apple cider, apple skin and touches of tropical fruits, citrus and apricot. It’s softish on the palate, but stylish with mulled apple and redcurrant flavours in a dry style. (RV)
91 CEDARCREEK CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($18.49)
Inaugural vintage using partial concrete egg fermentation, with a mix of different barrel ages and styles, yields orchard fruits and tropical aromas on top, followed by a ripe, round palate; hints of apple and pineapple supported by firm acidity through a clean finish. (TP)
91 CEDARCREEK EHRENFELSER 2015, OKANAGAN ($18.49)
Lifted tropical and orchard fruits before a juicy stone-fruit palate of honeydew, white peach and tropical flavours, wrapped in juicy lip-smacking acidity and a lingering end. (TP)
91 MELDVILLE CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($20)
Meldville is the new virtual wine project
by veteran Niagara winemaker Derek Barnett. The nose shows poached pear, baked apple and creamy, buttery notes with lovely integrated spice and touch of lemon. It’s clean and fresh on the palate with a mélange of orchard fruit and a balanced approach to the spice. (RV)
91 HAYWIRE SWITCHBACK PINOT GRIS 2015, OKANAGAN ($24.90) Citrus and mineral notes on top with a firm mineral edge and zesty grapefruit core element. Evolves to a rounded, elegant finish. (TP)
90 MISSION HILL CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2015, OKANAGAN ($20.49)
Lifted aromas of tropical and orchard fruits precede a generous, mouth-filling palate of white peach and pineapple with fresh acidity countered by assertive oak through a firm end. (TP)
90 UNSWORTH PINOT GRIS 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY ($21)
Pretty, very pale straw in the glass; citrus and apple notes before a quite plush and well-textured palate with a little zesty edge in the close. (TP)
90 RED ROOSTER RIESLING 2015, OKANAGAN ($22)
The wine shows citrus, mineral and bracing acidity and is a great example of the drier style of Riesling that more BC producers have moved towards and are comfortable with producing. This is also an indication of the growing maturity of the BC wine industry and the acceptance of the consumer of this style. (GB)
90 SOUTHBROOK SMALL LOT NATURAL ORANGE WINE 2016, NIAGARA ($30)
The 2016 version of this natural, skin-fermented Vidal is the best one yet. The nose shows orangy-tangerine and citrus notes, but the true beauty is on the palate. A zesty, tangy citrus bomb with orange peel on a textured frame. The tannins are more evident in this version, providing structure and dimension that all leads to a long, lingering finish. Strange and beautiful. (RV)
90 RAVINE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($30)
This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in 20% new oak, which has produced a wine of great balance and flavour. Toast, honey, vanilla, peach, fig and yellow apple are all in play. Medium body with great length and ideally suited for lobster or crab dishes. (ES)
89 PROSPECT WINERY OGOPOGO’S LAIR PINOT GRIGIO 2015, OKANAGAN ($12.99)
Orchard and stone fruit on the nose with bruised apple skin before a peach- and plum-toned palate with moderate acidity and a fruity end. (TP)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2015, ONTARIO ($15) Straw coloured with a leesy, apple, lemon-peel nose and a light floral note; medium bodied, dry, fresh and lively on the palate. Apple and lemony flavours with good length. Great value. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($15)
A sense of elegance on the nose with notes of creamy pear, apple, melon, butter and vanilla cream. This is a comforting Chard on the palate with a creamy texture that highlights rich poached pear, lovely oak spices and lively acidity to keep it all balanced. (RV)
89 MISSION HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2015, OKANAGAN ($20.49)
Upfront citrus and tropical notes precede a zesty grapefruit and lemon-edged palate with good texture and bright acidity before a clean, refreshing end. (TP)
89 PLANTER’S RIDGE CHARDONNAY 2015, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($25)
Very pale in the glass but reveals elegant floral blossom with delicate citrus and subtle buttery notes on the nose. Good varietal green apple fruit is wrapped in a rounded, creamy texture with well-balanced acidity, finishing with agreeably light buttery notes. (SW)
89 QUAILS’ GATE STEWART FAMILY RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($45)
Rich, intense and opulent with baked apple, peach, spice and toasted brioche. A big wine that still maintains its cool-climate freshness. (GB)
88 CAVE SPRING RIESLING 2014, ONTARIO ($15.95)
Winemaker Angelo Pavan at Niagara’s Cave Spring Cellars is a Riesling specialist. He makes a range of Rieslings in different styles, and this introductory wine is a great bargain. Pale straw in colour with a minerally, grapefruit and apple nose already developing petrol notes. It’s light- to medium-bodied, just off-dry, with a grapefruit flavour and a touch of honey. A beautifully textured wine. (TA)
88 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ SEYVAL BLANC 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($16.99)
Green apple, citrus and floral scents yield to prominent clean green apple backed by stony mineral and saliva-inducing acidity on the palate. Finishing bone-dry, this continues to be my go-to pairing with oysters on the half-shell. (SW)
88 STREWN WINERY TERROIR FRENCH OAK CHARDONNAY, NIAGARA ($27.15)
50% new oak has added vanilla cream aromas to the green apple, peach, pineapple and fig. The palate shows sweet fruit qualities, fresh acidity and a spice tinged finale. Halibut please!. (ES)
87 THE HARE WINE CO. CROWN LAND WHITE 2014, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($18.50)
Petrol, peach, smokey minerals, flowers and spice flavours. Ready to drink. I would choose Szechuan cuisine as the perfect foil. (ES)
87 DESERT HILLS GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, OKANAGAN ($30)
Floral with lychee, spice, rose water character and enough fresh acidity to balance the residual sweetness. A good match with sablefish in a mild coconut-milk curry. (GB) MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED CHILE 90 CASA NUEVA RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2016, CURICÓ VALLEY ($11.42)
Clear pale silver-yellow. Powerful aromas of banana and apple, together with a slight peach bouquet that manifests the inclusion of 5% Viognier grapes. On the palate, it is completely dry, contrary to the very fruity nose. Light bodied with a long finish of apple and peach flavours. I enjoyed this with summer squash soup garnished with truffle oil and toasted pumpkin seeds. Drink now. (RL)*
FRANCE 92 JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE C.M. SANCERRE BLANC 2014, LOIRE VALLEY ($27.95)
When Sancerre is done right, it is truly a thing of beauty —case and point, this baby. Gooseberry, honey, nectarines, herbs, honey, white flowers and a boat load of minerals linger into the sunset. The brisk acidity and great depth will allow cellaring, but it is already approachable, especially when served alongside seafood. (ES)
92 LA CHABLISIENNE CHÂTEAU GRENOUILLES 2011, CHABLIS GRAND CRU, BURGUNDY ($98.75)
Pale yellow. Very expressive nose, perfumed with flowery notes and racy minerality. Oak is revealed through toasted bread notes, less obtrusive than the usual vanilla or buttery notes found in oaked white wines. Powerful in its own way on the palate, with assertive acidity, complex taste and a lengthy finish. Keep 10 years. (GBQc)
91 LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($30) Pale straw colour with a nose of white blossoms, apples and a thread of minerality; medium bodied, crisply dry, beautifully balanced and elegant with great length. (TA)
90 DOMAINE DE MAJAS BLANC 2012, IGP CÔTES CATALANES, ROUSSILLON ($25)
The 30-ha Domaine de Majas is located to 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
the west of the Roussillon in the village of Caudies de Fenouillèdes. Fully biodynamic since 2007, with Domaine Matassa’s Tom Lubbe as consultant. Organic Rolle, Macabeu and Carignan Blanc vines are planted on clay-limestone soil at an altitude of 350-400 m above sea level; they are fermented wild and see just a shadow of sulphur. Salted almonds and hazelnuts glide along a sizeable slick of herbal lees, lifted by a crystalline citrus. White peach, green fig, dried thyme, medicinal-hued white cherry appear on the medium body before mineral salts linger on the finish. Exactly what you want to drink right now with grilled anchovies or white wine and garlic mussels. (TR)
89 RICHEMONT DU CHÂTEAU DE SOURS 2015, AC BORDEAUX ($13)
Clear, pale dusty vermilion. Forward nose of apricots, peaches, oranges and a bit of candy floss. On the palate, it is surprisingly full bodied, with high-ish alcohol and acidity-framing apple, apricot and pineapple flavours. Bone dry, but so fruity it tastes sweet. Drink now. (RL)*
89 DOMAINE GAUBY LES CALCINAIRES 2015, IGP CÔTES CATALANES, ROUSSILLON ($27.90)
Very pale yellow. Minerally (flint), delicate notes of citrus and tropical fruits. Ripe taste, sharp acidity contrasted by a round mid-palate. Overall quite satisfying with a very good persistence. Drink or hold up to 2 years. (GBQc)
89 LA CHABLISIENNE CHABLIS 1ER CRU GRANDE CUVÉE 2013, BURGUNDY ($29) Pale yellow. Discreet nose of fruity notes (citrus and white tree fruits) with only a hint of minerality. Tender on the palate, round fatty texture, signs that acidity is on the low side for a Chablis. It even seems to show a hint of botrytis. (GBQc)
89 JACQUÈRE BERTHOLIER 2014, CHIGNIN VIEILLES VIGNES, SAVOIE ($35) Offers beguilingly fresh floral and green fruit character with crisp minerality, creamy texture and understated subtle complexity on the finish. (SW)
88 PLAIMONT LES VIGNES RETROUVÉES 2013, AOC SAINT MONT, SUD-OUEST ($12)
This herbal-driven, lemony lighter white is a blend of Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu, the ancestral grapes of the Pyrenean foothills. This wine is named Les Vines Retrouvées (the rediscovered vines) as a tribute to the grapes’ history in the South West. Hedgerow, lemongrass and a ringing riverstone minerality throughout, streaked with a quenching lemon-rind acidity and lined with a scrubby herbal lees. Enjoy this vibrant, honest, authentic white with mussels, clams or other shellfish. Fantastic value. (TR)
88 DOMAINE DES HUARDS PURE CHEVERNY 2015, LOIRE VALLEY ($21.75)
Very pale. Citrus notes, hints of quince and anise. The fresh acidity of Sauvignon Blanc is pairing well with the rich body brought by the Chardonnay. Nice round finish, maybe a bit short. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 JOSEPH CATTIN RIESLING 2015, ALSACE AC ($23)
Citrus, light floral and green fruit on the nose, showing more distinctive Riesling character on the palate, with bright lemon citrus, chalky mineral and incisive acidity. A dry, food-friendly Alsatian style that will pair readily with a variety of seafoods or charcuterie. (SW)
88 DOMAINE DUPEUBLE 2015, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC AC ($29)
Generous green apple and floral scents lead the way for rounded ripe apple with suggestions of pear on the palate. Creamy, with a splash of vanilla balanced by lively acidity on the finish. (SW)
87 LA CHABLISIENNE LA SEREINE 2013, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($22.40)
Very pale. Enticing nose of pure citrus notes with a mineral undertone. The balanced acidity is perceived initially followed by a slightly fat mid-palate. The purist Chablis lover may find it a bit toned down, but many will say it is easier to drink that way. (GBQc)
86 DOMAINE SERVIN 2015, CHABLIS AC ($35)
Crisp, lean-style Chablis showing green apple, bright acidity and a hint of mineral. Straightforward and lacking some of the appeal of the previous fine vintage. You can enjoy it with a tuna or wild salmon sashimi. (SW)
PORTUGAL 87 QUINTA DA AVELEDA LOUREIRO/ALVARINHO 2015, VINHO VERDE ($13.99)
ITALY
Loureiro and Alvarino are the 2 best varieties used in Vinho Verde. This example shows grapey green scents with fresh green herb on the nose and lean green fruit on the smooth palate. Finishes with a touch of stony mineral. (SW)
90 PLANETA CHARDONNAY 2014, SICILY ($39.75)
SOUTH AFRICA
A real blockbuster from Sicily. Yellow straw colour with a spicy nose of vanilla oak and tropical fruits; full-bodied, dry, pear, apple and toasty flavours with a long, minerally finish. (TA)
88 FALESCO EST! EST!! EST!!! DI MONTEFIASCONE 2012 ($18)
Herbal slicked, lees-licked and lemon-lined, this medium-bodied blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia is from the remarkably memorable DOP of Est! Est!! Est!!! in Lazio. Whole-cluster grapes spend time in stainless steel, preserving the bright fruit. Greengage, lemon, green fig and mineral salts on the finish. Best when warmed up a bit. As legend has it, a 12th century Bishop was traveling to the Vatican for a meeting with the Pope. The Bishop sent a scout ahead to survey the villages along the route for the best wines, with directions to write “est” (Latin for “it is”) on the door of the inns he visited when he was particularly impressed with the quality of the wine, so the Bishop following on his trail would know where to stop for a tipple. At a Montefiascone inn, the scout was reportedly so stoked with the local wine that he wrote “Est! Est!! Est!!!” on the door. (TR)
88 DONNAFUGATA SURSUR GRILLO 2014, SICILIA DOC ($26.29) Scents of ripe grapefruit and stone fruit open the way for generously ripe yellow fruit and mango flavours with gritty mineral and lightly refreshing acidity. Another easy-to-like Sicilian charmer. Roast a chicken with fresh spring vegetables. (SW)
89 AVONDALE JONTY’S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE 2016, PAARL ($15.95)
Avondale is a biodynamic winery in South Africa’s Paarl region. Owner Johnathan Grieve employs a “posse” of ducks that patrol the vineyard looking for snails. The snails apparently eat the vines. This fruit cocktail of Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Muscat de Frontignan, Viognier and Sémillon is pale straw in colour with a minerally, peachy nose and a note of cinnamon; it’s medium bodied, dry with a peach and citrus flavour, and well balanced with good length. (TA)
88 MAN FREE-RUN STEEN CHENIN BLANC 2015, PAARL ($13.95)
South African winemakers used to call their Chenin Blanc grape “Steen.” This is one winery that can’t quite let go of the old name. Very pale straw in colour with a spicy, white-peach nose; it’s medium-bodied, dry, with nicely balanced pear and quince flavours. (MAN is made up of the initials of the 3 owners’ wives: Marie, Anette and Nicky.) (TA)
88 MULDERBOSCH CHENIN BLANC STEEN OP HOUT 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($17)
A cushion of sweet lees beds this youthful Chenin from Western Cape. Meadow flowers, grasses, yellow apple and tight pear are perfumed with peach blossoms and honeysuckle, finishing bright, clean, but slightly warm. This is a mix of dry farmed bush vines (60%) and trellised vines, as well as a mix of picking times.
Fermentation was in a mix of French oak (10%) and stainless steel, resting on lees for 6 months before blending. At this point, the wine is a bit knees-and-elbows awkward, but should settle with a little more time in bottle. (TR)
87 DURBANVILLE HILLS ATLANTIC VIEW SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($12)
This is South Africa’s most popular Sauvignon Blanc under a new package. It has a nose of melon, tropical fruits, acacia and herbs. It’s balanced on the palate, a friendly white with an array of apple, melon, pear and guava, with refreshing acidity. Enjoyable doesn’t have to be expensive. (RV)
ROSÉ 90 RÉGINE SUMEIRE PÉTALE DE ROSE 2015, CÔTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE ($20)
An exemplary rosé from a region that specializes in it. Very pale pink in colour, it shows an inviting fruity nose, a cocktail of small berries. Beautiful on the palate; light, balanced, fresh and fruity. Simply delicious. Good persistence to match. Always a good choice and especially successful in 2015. (GBQc)
90 UNSWORTH ROSÉ 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($20)
Vibrant salmon in the glass, with strawberry and red fruit on top before a generous palate of redcurrant and mineral hints before a lingering, juicy end. (TP)
89 DOMAINE DE LA TERRE ROUGE VIN GRIS D’AMADOR 2014, SIERRA FOOTHILLS, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($28.45) More coloured than most rosés, its nose is rather shy but it has freshness. There is more expression on the palate with good presence and body; a great balance and roundness in the mid-palate. A serious rosé meant for the table: think roasted poultry or a salmon steak. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED RED ARGENTINA 90 VERSADO MALBEC 2013, MENDOZA VALLEY ($19.95)
Ontarian partners Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling make this wine on their small vineyard holding in the Mendoza Valley. Dense purple in colour, the wine has a spicy plum and blackberry bouquet with notes of tar and vanilla oak. Full bodied and dry with spicy black fruit flavours; firmly structured with a cedary, peppery note on the finish. (TA)
90 MATIAS RICCITELLI HEY MALBEC 2014, LUJÁN DE CUYO ($28)
From Luján de Cuyo, this is next-gen Malbec from one of the exciting young movers-and-shakers on the scene, Matias Riccitelli. Easy and detailed at once, Hey Malbec is 12-year-old vines, predominantly aged in concrete (the remainder in French oak), which is felt on the breadth and grip of the palate. Concentrated plums, mulberry and perfumed red florals drive the savoury red, with whisper-tuggy tannins along the long palate to support. Easily bright enough to carry the 14.5%. Not profound, but (as the label suggests) fun; complexed enough for the geeks and accessible enough for the rest. A well-struck balance all around. (TR)
89 CATENA ZAPATA MALBEC 2014, MENDOZA ($19.95)
Purple tint. Bright ripe cherry and other small red fruits along with a fair amount of soft spicy oak. Round and full mid-palate, very soft texture, clean finish. Nothing complex but hard to resist. Drink now. (GBQc)
AUSTRALIA 90 FLAMETREE SHIRAZ 2013, MARGARET RIVER ($27.95) The cooler Margaret River region tempers the brashness of Shiraz grown in warmer Aussie regions. Deep purple-ru58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
by in colour with a herbal, blackberry nose enriched with oak spice. Well-extracted sweet fruit with toasty oak complete the package. (TA)
89 MCWILLIAM’S HANWOOD ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NEW SOUTH WALES ($17.99)
Warmly ripe perfumed scents of blackcurrant and blackberry with a light whiff of herb and subtle spice on the nose show the way for generous blackcurrant and blackberry flavours with fine spice and a judicious splash of dark chocolate. All is delivered in a velvety smooth, harmoniously balanced package. (SW)
88 WAKEFIELD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, CLARE VALLEY ($24)
Medicinal-hued cherry, anise and nubuck open this Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, permeated with a subtle mineral-salts note and ample scrubby grass and herbs. A slicked palate is buffered by moderate, lightly tuggy tannins and raised with acidity to the potent anise finish. A bit elbows-and-knees at this young phase, best paired with herbed lamb kabobs. (TR)
88 TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST 2015, MCLAREN VALE ($30)
The suggestive label hints that this McLaren Vale will be sexy and rich, but I would summarize as ripe and succulent instead. Brooding brambles, ripe wild blackberry and dark florals on a soft, velvet-cushioned palate. Dark chocolate streams throughout the whole, coating the ripe tannins in the characteristic McLaren Vale way. Sweet baking spices linger on the finish. Easy-drinking and easily approachable now. (TR)
BRAZIL 87 SALTON RESERVA ESPECIAL TANNAT 2013 ($13.67)
Clear deep garnet. Robust and interesting nose of sour cherry, raspberry, coffee and prunes. Light bodied with high acidity and soft tannins. Red berry-fruit flavours are fading. Drink up. (RL)*
CANADA 94 PAINTED ROCK CABERNET FRANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($45)
A flagship Cab Franc from an excellent vintage. Generous red and black berry aromas with smoky notes before a plush but focused palate, which balances a generous mouthfeel of mulberry and cassis with mocha and spice hints. Good structure with firm but well-managed tannins from moderate but not overt oak and a plush, lingering, persistent finish. (TP)
93 SPIERHEAD WINERY PINOT NOIR CUVÉE 2014, OKANAGAN ($38)
Elegant, layered and fresh with bright cherry, earth, savoury supple tannins and lasting finish. The Cuvée is blended from a few barrels that stood out to winemaker Bill Pierson. Remarkable how this relatively new winery (named 2012 Best New Winery at BC Wine Awards) is already making outstanding wines. At this price, the wine also dispels the myth that Canadian wines don’t provide good value. (GB)
92 LEGENDS ESTATE WINERY RESERVE MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA ($22)
There hasn’t been a reserve Merlot made since 2007 at Legends as it’s only made in the warmest vintages. It has a concentrated nose of cassis, kirsch, espresso bean and barrel oak spices. It’s rich and meaty on the palate with a range of flavours from dark cherry to currants with roasted coffee beans, baking spice and silky smooth tannins through a long finish. (RV)
92 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($30)
This organically farmed wine is the first Pinot Noir from Southbrook. It’s a fabulous debut and a nice addition to Southbrook’s growing portfolio. It’s a pure and expressive Pinot with a nose of violets, bright red berries and integrated spice notes that enhance the profile rather than dominate. It’s polished and vibrant on the palate with a lovely mélange of cherry and raspberry as well as a touch of earth and spice, all leading to a textured, nuanced finish that’s lively and fresh. (RV)
92 FOXTROT PINOT NOIR 2013, OKANAGAN ($54)
Upfront floral, violet, strawberry and earthy notes, followed by a palate defined by a stony streak and forest-floor notes. Underpinned by a pleasing savoury edge wrapped in silky tannins through a lengthy end. (TP)
91 MORAINE ESTATE SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($20.49)
Mocha, vanilla and floral notes on the nose, followed by a medium-bodied palate defined by supple tannins and juicy acidity. Dark cherry/chocolate notes and peppery hints, nicely integrated with measured oak. Excellent value. (TP)
91 MORAINE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN ($21.99)
Red berries and floral notes on the nose precede a light- to medium-bodied palate of well-balanced fruit and oak, wild strawberry and cranberry hints. Supported by fresh acidity with a subtle savoury note through a juicy finish. (TP)
91 MISSION HILL PINOT NOIR RESERVE 2015, OKANAGAN ($25) Aromas of dark berry-fruit with earthy notes and hints of spice and vanilla precede a plush and layered, fruit-driven palate of black cherry and mulberry. Generous mouthfeel and easy tannins through a lengthy end. (TP)
91 TOWNSHIP 7 RESERVE BLUE TERRACE VINEYARD MERLOT 2014, OKANAGAN ($35)
Another very fine wine from Township 7’s reserve program. This 100% Merlot was aged for 24 months in a combination of French and American oak, 30% of the barrels new. It has a generous and concentrated nose of blackcurrants, cherry, cocoa, bramble and an array of lavish spice notes. It’s a highly stylized wine on the palate propped up by a firm bed of tannic structure to go with meaty dark fruit, rich spice notes and plenty of length through the finish. (RV)
91 BLACK HILLS ESTATE SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($40)
From young vines on the Black Sage
Bench. Ripe plum and dark berry notes on the nose before a plush and plummy palate defined by varietal darker meaty hints with mocha, vanilla and approachable tannins through a lingering close. (TP)
90 MELDVILLE CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ($24)
This is the second vintage of this Ontario staple, Cabernet Franc. 2015 delivered a style with more depth of flavour showcasing raspberry, cherry, violets and light spice notes. On the palate, it’s a red fruit bomb with dried herbs, savoury spice and freshness through the finish. (RV)
90 HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($25)
The Family Reserve is the top tier for this varietal and the 2015 vintage shows a very thick, dark and rich colour in the glass with a concentrated nose of kirsch, raspberry jam, expressive barrel spices and compoted dark fruits. Shows brightness on the palate from high acidity with a range of ripe red and dark fruits, anise, earth, bramble, oak spices, polished tannins and medium-plus finish. (RV)
90 SPERLING VINEYARDS VIN GRIS 2014, OKANAGAN ($30)
Made from 100% Pinot Noir, whole bunch-pressed then fermented in large neutral oak with indigenous yeast; leesy toned with vibrant apple skin, red berry, tannin and bright acidity. (TP)
90 THE HATCH BLACK SWIFT VINEYARD LONG ROAD SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($50)
Layered, complex and elegant with black fruit and spice. Savoury, firm but fine tannins and a fresh, long finish. The winery, part of the Terrabella Group, has a négociant philosophy, capitalizing on the diversity that exists in BC and working with growers to acquire quality grapes in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys to produce single-vineyard wines. The wine makes a great case for the growth of Syrah in BC. Have with a carefully seared tuna. (GB)
89 CHATEAU DES CHARMES ST DAVID’S BENCH VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR DROIT, ST DAVID’S BENCH ($17.95)
This wine packs more punch than your typical Gamay thanks to the “Droit” clone that CDC discovered almost 20 years ago. Medium to full body, there is plum, cherry, strawberry, raspberry and black pepper qualities. There is enough stuffing here to pair with a porcini crusted pork loin topped with a mushroom demi-glace. (ES)
89 MISSION HILL RESERVE SHIRAZ 2014, OKANAGAN ($23)
The Syrah grapes for this reserve wine were sourced from estate vineyards in the warm climate of Osoyoos’s Black Sage Bench. The nose shows a rich, peppery broth of blueberry, violets, cassis and white pepper notes. The palate reveals plenty of pepper spice, a range of dark fruits, savoury notes and liquorice to go with ripe tannins and freshening acidity. (RV)
89 PLANTER’S RIDGE PINOT NOIR 2015, ESTATE GROWN, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($29) Stainless steel fermented then aged in new and first-fill French oak barrels, this one shows a perfumed floral note with scents of cherry and strawberry. It is all cherry in the mouth, though, with velvety tannins and a light splash of dark chocolate. Has fine potential but needs another 2 to 3 years in the cellar. (SW)
89 BLASTED CHURCH NOTHING SACRED 2014, OKANAGAN ($70)
A blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon showing blackberries, cherries and plum flavours with hints of vanilla, cedar and spice, elegant tannins and a fresh finish. (GB)
88 STONEY RIDGE EXCELLENCE MERLOT 2015, NIAGARA ($24)
Plum, cherry, raspberry, vanilla, spice and cocoa are all present in this mid-weight Merlot. Nice density, fine grained tannins and fresh acidity will ensure five years in the cellar, but it can be broached right now, with some duck breast or rib eye steaks. (ES) MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED 88 THE HARE WINE CO. CROWN LAND RED 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($25.50)
This new winery on Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Highway 55 first offerings are a solid lot. This Cabernet Franc (70%) based blend is mid-weight and serves up cassis, herbs, tobacco, violets and cocoa. Elegant there is depth with fresh acidity and subdued tannins. Drink or hold. (ES)
88 MIKE WEIR LIMITED EDITION CABERNET FRANC 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($29.95)
Winemaker, Jeff Hundertmak, has pulled off a minor miracle considering that 2013 was a difficult one for red varietals in Ontario. Plum, cassis, redcurrant, herbs, violets, tobacco are all present in this fresh and friendly red. Ready to drink with braised meats or charcuterie. (ES)
88 PERSEUS WINERY SELECT LOTS CABERNET FRANC 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)
Loads of blackberry and black cherry with a good balance of dried herbs; mildly floral, firm, fruit-laden tannins and a lifted finish. (GB)
87 BLACK SAGE VINEYARD MERLOT 2014, OKANAGAN ($30)
Plum, cherry, vanilla and spice with soft, round tannins and lifted finish. The grapes are from some of BC’s oldest Merlot plantings from vineyard sites on the Black Sage Bench in the southern Okanagan. (GB)
CHILE 94 CORNELLANA BARREL RESERVE CARMÉNÈRE/PETIT VERDOT 2013, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($15.50)
Unusual blend. Clear, very deep plum red. Interesting and robust nose shows blackberries, cedar and clove spice with vanilla. In the mouth it is ultra-fruity with sweet and juicy blackberries and blueberries. Full bodied and well balanced, although the alcohol is a bit hot. Smooth tannins from judicious use of 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
oak. Give it time in the glass. Has the necessary elements to age for several more years. Good value. (RL)*
medium-bodied, dry raspberry and strawberry flavours carried on lively acidity, giving good length. (TA)
93 CASA NUEVA GRAN RESERVA SYRAH/CARMÉNÈRE 2014, CENTRAL VALLEY ($15.50)
89 CASA SILVA RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE 2014, O’HIGGINS REGION ($14.95)
Clear, very deep plum red. Nose of cherry and black pepper from the Syrah with green pepper tones from the Carménère. Tastes of black cherries, oak and chocolate, with a long finish. An unusual blend that works very well, with the components complementing and contrasting each other. Will improve for several more years. Good value. Excellent accompaniment to a rare grilled steak. (RL)*
Dense ruby in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant nose, it’s full-bodied with sweet blackcurrant, plum and dark chocolate flavours that finish dry with balancing acidity. (TA)
89 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, PUENTE ALTO, MAIPO ($19)
From Colchagua, which is prime Carmenere growing land, comes this full-bodied rendition with a distinct mix of blackberry, cassis, raspberry, tar, black olive, spice, herb, cured meats and Tahitian vanilla. Long lasting and enough tannic backbone to age for another 6 or 7 years. (ES)
Charcoal, cured meats, violets, thorns and inky cassis are kept light and fresh with a swell of acidity on this fuller-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon (splashed with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah) from cooler Maipo at Puente Alto (650 m) and Pirque (570 m). Roasted coffee and smoked pimiento linger on the finish. Tannins are gritty, but well integrated into the fruit at this stage. Mixed grill, meet this. (TR)
91 CASA NUEVA GRAN RESERVA MERLOT 2014, CURICÓ VALLEY ($15.50)
89 ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($19.05)
92 PRIMUS CARMENÈRE 2013, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($19.95)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium-intensity nose of raspberry, earth and spice. Full-bodied and soft on the palate with smooth tannins supporting ripe fruit flavours: raspberry, blackberry and plum. Long finish. Will last another couple of years. (RL)*
91 CASA NUEVA FOUR ELEMENTS 2014, MAIPO VALLEY ($18.17)
Clear, very deep plum red. Reticent nose with some cassis, herbal and woody undertones. Tastes like a left-bank Bordeaux from a warm year: lots of blackcurrant and blackberry fruit with vanilla and spice from oak maturation. Will probably improve somewhat for another 3 years. (RL)*
90 MONTES ALPHA PINOT NOIR 2014, ACONCAGUA COAST ($19.95) A stunner at the price. Deep ruby colour with a spicy strawberry and sweet rhubarb nose augmented by creamy oak;
Full ruby, purple rim. Only slightly oaked, the red and black berry notes fill the glass. Full bodied but very supple; the core is firm and tight. The tannic structure is more apparent in the slightly rough finish. (GBQc)
89 ARBOLEDA CARMÉNÈRE 2014, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($19.95)
Chile’s signature grape Carménère makes an interesting change from Cabernet Sauvignon — a grape with which it shares some flavour characteristics. Dense purple in colour like Cabernet, this Carménère shows a cedary, blackcurrant nose with graphite and herbal notes. It’s full bodied and dry with a rich blackcurrant flavour. (TA)
88 TORRES SANTA DIGNA RESERVA SYRAH 2013, CENTRAL VALLEY ($14.95)
Dense purple in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant and tobacco nose. Full bod-
ied with spicy-peppery flavours of sweet blackberry and tobacco leaf. Good length with ripe tannins. (TA)
88 ERRAZURIZ ESTATE SERIES PINOT NOIR 2015, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($14.99)
Shows fleshy red berry scents with dry herbal and spicy overtones. Cherry and raspberry flavours come with a splash of chocolate in a smooth, well-balanced package. (SW)
88 ARBOLEDA CARMÉNÈRE 2014, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($19.95)
Full ruby, purplish rim. Fresh nose of red fruits, hints of flowers, green pepper and beet. The oak reveals itself through pastry notes. Round and supple; the tannins are soft, well wrapped in fruity extract. Finish is intensely fruity. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
87 CASA NUEVA HACIENDA DE MOLINA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT 2015, CURICÓ VALLEY ($11.42) Clear medium-deep plum red. Medium-intensity aromas of cassis, plums, vanilla and spice. Fruit-forward and grapey in the mouth, with blackcurrant and raspberry flavours, and a bit of dark chocolate on the finish. Tannins are a bit rough; needs another year or 2. (RL)*
87 ERRAZURIZ ESTATE SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, VALLE DE MAIPO ($14.99) Piquant blackcurrant and fresh green herbal scents with cinnamon and clove on the nose move to agreeably rounded ripe dark fruit flavours supported by light tannic grip, a splash of vanilla and milk chocolate, finishing quite dry. (SW)
FRANCE 92 CLOS DES BRUSQUIÈRES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2013, RHÔNE ($55.95)
Ruby colour with a mature tawny note at the rim; spicy, cedary nose of blackberries and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, beautifully balanced juicy black
plum and cherry flavours. A pleasure to drink (and a shame to spit). (TA)
89 CLARENCE DILLON CLARENDELLE RED 2012, BORDEAUX ($23.95)
Dense purple colour with a malty, blackberry nose lifted with vanilla oak; full-bodied, dry, earthy, Christmas-cake flavours that fill the palate. (TA)
57% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple colour; cedary, plum and blueberry with tobacco notes and oak spice; medium-bodied, dry almost savoury flavour of red fruits; well balanced, firmly structured with soft, cocoa powder-like tannins. (TA)
91 DOMAINE CHANSON LES VERGELESSES PERNAND-VERGELESSES 2013, BURGUNDY ($66.95)
89 MARCHAND-TAWSE CÔTES DE NUITS-VILLAGES 2014, BURGUNDY ($39.95)
90 ROCHE DE BELLÈNE CUVÉE RÉSERVE PINOT NOIR/BOURGOGNE 2014, BURGUNDY ($21.95)
88 LES DAUPHINS CÔTES DU RHÔNE RÉSERVE 2015, RHÔNE ($12.95)
91 CHÂTEAU SIXTINE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2013, RHÔNE ($47.95)
A nose of violets, mint and raspberries wrapped in oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured, elegant with cherry and raspberry flavours topped with a floral note. Give it 5 years for the ultimate drinking experience. (TA)
Red Burgundy gets pricey, but here’s one that punches above its weight in terms of value for your dollar. Ruby in colour with a lifted, spicy black-raspberry nose with well-integrated oak, it’s medium-bodied, dry, fresh and lively on the palate with a flavour of raspberries. A well-balanced wine for the price. (TA)
89 BRUNEL DE LA GARDINE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2015, RHÔNE VALLEY ($20)
The Brunel family has been making wine since the 17th century, and this Châteauneuf-du-Pape property, Château de la Gardine, was acquired by the négociant in 1945. Known for its singular “La Gardine” sloped bottle, this Grenache/Mourvèdre/ Syrah is a classic typecast Côtes du Rhône. Aged in cement, this approachable bistro-perfect red is textured with anise and tobacco and seasoned with cracked peppercorns and a lick of mineral salts; it’s charming, with alluring red liquorice and cherry friendliness. Bright and medium-bodied; there is a firmness to the tannins of this young red, providing structure ideal for roast chicken. Excellent value; this is the Côtes du Rhône you want to stock up on and drink regularly over the next couple of years. (TR)
Fairly deep ruby in colour with a spicy raspberry nose topped by a grace note of violets and a gamey note; medium-bodied, dry, lean and sinewy, elegant and nicely balanced with a firm tannic finish. (TA)
Deep ruby colour in colour; smoky, blackberry nose with notes of violets and dried herbs; medium- to full-bodied, dry and savoury with lively acidity. Great value here. (TA)
88 PAUL JABOULET AINÉ PARALLÈLE 45 2014, CÔTES-DURHÔNE AC ($20.49)
Opens with blackberry, background raspberry and peppery spice on the nose. Dark berry flavours come wrapped in solid tannic structure with stony mineral and a splash of dark chocolate. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU PEYROS MADIRAN VIELLES VIGNES 2011, AOC MADIRAN ($27)
Château Peyros Vieilles Vines is a 80/20 blend of Tannat/Cabernet Franc from Sud-Ouest France’s Madiran. Peyros, the southernmost property of Madiran, takes its name from the Gascony word for “rocky location.” Dusky cassis, earthy violets, dark blue plums, anise, scrubby herbs and medicinal black cherry are lackadaisically drawn across ample, grippy tannins. Floral black raspberry lingers on the finish. This has a ways to go to resolve. Decant now and serve with lamb shank, or wait 3+ years. (TR) MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED 87 JEAN PERRIER & FILS CUVÉE GASTRONOMIE 2015, SAVOIE ($16.40)
100% Pinot Noir. Bright light ruby colour. Delicate nose of sweet red berries and a touch of oak for complexity. Rather light in body and concentration, the fresh fruity taste is paired with drying tannins that turn slightly bitter and astringent in the finish. Not at its best on its own, it was a revelation with charcuterie, namely rabbit terrine. Drink up. (GBQc)
GERMANY 89 TESCH UNPLUGGED RIESLING 2014, NAHE ($20) Established in 1723, Weingut Tesch is one of Germany’s classic producers, typifying the Nahe. Unplugged is driven by racy, ripping acidity, driving heady yellow fruit, green fig, white peach and honeysuckle, all cut by weathered stone and funky earthiness. Though Nahe’s generosity is cut with shearing acidity and crystalline orange peel, this is still very dense, vibrating on the finish. Not quite cohesive at this point, but still fun to drink (unlike what the dude on the label will make you think). (TR)
ITALY 93 MASI COSTASERA RISERVA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2011, VENETO ($69.95)
This is one of the great Amarones. Dense purple-black in colour; cedary, tobacco leaf, plum and vanilla-oak nose; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted with a savoury plum flavour and an engaging floral note. A firmly structured wine. (TA)
91 RONCHI DI CIALLA SCHIOPPETTINO DI CIALLA 2010, FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA ($50)
Massive pink peppercorn, raspberry bush, light thorn and subtle leather filter throughout this graceful and characterful Schioppettino. A soft core of wild herbs is worn even smoother with bottle age. Subtle, quiet and charming. Paolo Rapuzzi, of Ronchi di Cialla, began producing 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
Schioppettino, Refosco, Picolit, and Verduzzo, 4 of the native grapes of Friuli, in the village of Cialla in the early 1970s and the estate is now one of the premier estates of Friuli. Schioppettino is also known as Ribolla Nera. (TR)
90 DONNAFUGATA TANCREDI 2011, SICILY ($40)
Layered and leathery, Tancredi is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d’Avola, Tannat and other grapes from Sicily. 14 months in oak barrique was followed by 24 months in bottle, fortifying the tannins as well as the structure. Worn leather coats the base, while thorny cassis, black cherry, tobacco, scrubby Mediterranean herbs and anise carry through the warm, salty and drying finish. Tannins are firm and slightly balsamic-sticky, though pouring alongside roasted lamb and polenta would easily (and deliciously) solve. (TR)
90 CASTELLO DI FONTERUTOLI GRAN SELEZIONE 2012, CHIANTI CLASSICO, TOSCANA ($48)
Ruby-garnet. Ripe red berries, a flowery touch for elegance. Oak is well integrated. Silky at first, the firm core is revealed in the mid-palate, tight but elegant through the ripe intense finish. Great balance overall. Drink or hold. (GBQc)
89 BRANCAIA TRE 2013, TUSCANY ($21.65) Medium ruby. Evolved nose of kirsch, tea leaves and a good deal of oak. Supple and medium-bodied at most, it remains balanced thanks to only slightly firm but tight tannins. Finish is quite long. Drink now. 80% Sangiovese plus 10% each of Merlot and Cab. (GBQc)
89 RENATO RATTI BATTAGLIONI D’ASTI 2015, DOP BARBERA D’ASTI, PIEDMONT ($27)
Cured meats, smoked branch, dark cherry and peppery notes throughout this youthful and approachable Barbera from Asti. Renato Ratti also bottles a Battaglioni DOC from Alba, which would be fun to taste alongside (for geeks like me). This is a plush and round black-fruited wine, destemmed and crushed, with
soft tannins, cranberry brightness and primary black fruit, coming from time in stainless before 1 year in older oak barrel. A medicinal-cherry line carries throughout. Ready to drink now with grilled ribs or wild mushroom-laden braised chicken thighs. (TR)
89 LUNGAROTTI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 2010, UMBRIA ($42) Sagrantino is a highly tannic grape, and this one needs another 5 years at least. Dense purple in colour with a tawny note at the rim; spicy, blackberry, vanilla oak and bitter chocolate nose; full-bodied, dry, savoury-herbal black fruit flavours that finish on firm tannins. (TA)
89 GIUSEPPE CAMPAGNOLA AMARONE DELLA CLASSICO 2012, VENETO ($43.85)
Dense purple-ruby in colour with lifted nose of spicy plums and raisins; full-bodied and rich, sweetish plum, fig and dark chocolate flavours. A well-balanced wine. (TA)
88 PASQUA ROMEO AND JULIET 2014, IGT VENETO ($14)
This is an apassimento of Merlot and Corvina grapes, left to dry for 1 month into wooden trays before wine from the just-fermented grapes is added, kicking off a secondary ferment that lasts 1 month in stainless steel. The wine is then matured in oak tonneaux (2nd use) for 3 months before the wines are blended and MLF occurs. Soft, pretty raspberry and cherry, blackberry gummies, pink peppercorn spice on a velvet palate. Low tannins, moderate acidity, gentle spicing, like a hug. Fitting for a wine called Romeo and Juliet, and reflected in the label: a photo taken by Giò Martorana (winner of the UNESCO Prize for Photography), which portrays the daily messages left by lovers on the walls of the famous courtyard of Romeo and Juliet in Verona. (TR)
88 PRUNOTTO 2014, DOLCETTO D’ALBA DOC ($19.70)
Bitter cherry and dark plum scents with a touch of almond shift to luscious, gulpable dark plum with appetizingly sour bite on the palate. Has just enough tannic grip and a lingering almond note on the finish. (SW)
88 UMANI RONCHI SAN LORENZO 2014, ROSSO CONERO DOC ($19.99)
Shows robust cherry and spicy character with a light whiff of green herb. Full-flavoured bitter cherry and red plum emerge on the palate with brisk acidity and firm tannic grip. Smoother spicy chocolate notes kick in on the finish. Better with 2 to 3 years additional aging. (SW)
87 CASTELLO MONACI CORIBANTE 2014, SALENTO IGT ($21.99)
Syrah/Malvasia Nera. A big, richly flavoured, deeply concentrated and densely textured red showing jammy fruit and plenty of spice. Smoothly rounded, it finishes with jammy sweetness. (SW)
NEW ZEALAND 88 BELLBIRD SPRING THE PRUNER’S REWARD PINOT NOIR 2013, WAIPARA VALLEY ($21.99)
Offers clean, varietal cherry, cinnamon spice and light herbal scents with generous cherry-fruit and a splash of vanilla and milk chocolate on the medium-weight palate. (SW)
PORTUGAL 90 QUINTA DO CRASTO SUPERIOR DOURO 2013, DOC DOURO VALLEY ($35)
Crasto Superior is where the portfolio really starts complexing with the reds, with a mix of field-blend old vines and the intriguing Sousão blended with Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. This comes from Crasto’s Douro Superior estate, Quinta da Cabreira, and spent 1 year in French oak. The wood is felt, but matches the potency of the cassis, cherry, raspberry and blackberry. Tannins are chewy and ripe and ample. Red medicinal fruit weaves throughout; a resinous herbal note permeates the concentration and lingers on the finish. Youthful, dense and powerful now, and best enjoyed with some time in cellar or a decant and roast lamb. (TR)
89 VEEDHA DOURO RED 2013, DOURO VALLEY ($14.95)
SPAIN
Portugal’s Douro Valley is the home of the fortified wine, port — but today some 50% of the wines produced in this region are table wines, made from the same grapes as port. Deep ruby in colour, this wine has a dusty, earthy, blackberry bouquet with a note of oak; it’s full bodied, dry and savoury; plum and mulberry flavours tinged with oak spice end with supple tannins. (TA)
90 TELMO RODRIGUEZ GABA DO XIL MENCIA 2013, VALDEORRAS, GALICIA ($19)
89 NIEPOORT DIALOGO 2014, DOC DOURO VALLEY ($20)
88 BODEGAS ATALAYA LAYA GARNACHA MONASTRELL VIEILLES VIGNES 2015, ALMANSA, CASTILLA-LA MANCHA ($14)
One of the Fabulous Wines series, Dialogo is enjoyed around the world (Branco and Tinto) under many different names. The line began in 2004 when Dirk wanted an appealing Douro label for the German market. Working with his designer, they devised a whole comic storyboard label called FABELHAFT. After the success in German markets, Dirk developed labels for many other countries including Canada (Dialogo), the UK (Drink Me) and USA (Twisted). As you can expect with such a global spread, this is a bright, accessible wine. Youthful raspberry, blackberry, wild blueberry and thorns ride a juicy and jubilant palate, brought back to earth by earthy, savoury and youthfully fierce, fine tannins. Based on Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Barroca, the destemmed grapes fermented in stainless, where 95% remained for a year (the remainder in older French oak barrels). This achieves enough savoury seriousness while achieving juicy drinkability — no small feat. (TR)
SOUTH AFRICA 88 THE GAMEKEEPER’S RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, WINE OF WESTERN CAPE ($19.99)
Fine dark fruit melds with aromas of earthy mushroom and sooty, lightly smoky notes on the nose. Blackberry and secondary blackcurrant kick in on the palate with firm tannins and balanced acidity, finishing firm and dry. (SW)
Medium ruby. Expressive nose of ripe red fruits, oaky notes. Seductive, very smooth, almost silky texture and a great ripe fruity taste. Reminiscent of a New-World Pinot Noir, it is actually made of Mencia, a Spanish grape on the rise. (GBQc)
The weight and heft on the palate reflects both the old bush vines in this 70/30 Garnacha Tintorera/Monastrell, and the intense heat of Almansa. Fortunately, the altitude of the vineyards (700-1,000 m) and calcareous soils have laced this concentrated wine with freshness. Brooding cassis, black plum, dark florals and black liquorice are etched with scrubby resinous herbs, thorns, espresso and medicinal blackberry, all bolstered by thick and sticky tannins. This packs weight and complexity far past its price point. Bodegas Atalaya was founded in 2007 by the Gil Family of Jumilla. (TR)
UNITED STATES 90 RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($26.95)
An incredible value Napa Cab and a multiple bottle purchase is mandated! Smooth a silk, there is plum, blackberry, raspberry, vanilla, raisins and a touch of smoke in the full-bodied wine. Excellent length and ready to drink with NY strip. (ES)
89 SEXTANT ZINFANDEL 2013, CENTRAL COAST ($21.95)
For those who like hedonistic, over-thetop, jammy Zin, this is your ticket. Full bodied with gobs of red and dark fruit, tobacco and raisins. Concentrated with no harsh edges and ready to go with Memphis-style dry rubbed ribs. (ES) MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 63
NOTED 89 L’ÉCOLE NO 41 SYRAH 2012, COLUMBIA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($41)
Red and black berries, pastry notes from the oak. Bright taste of red fruits, thick texture, generous chewy tannins and a good dose of alcohol for warmth, especially in the finish. (GBQc)
DESSERT 95 CHÂTEAU FONTEBRIDE 2010, AC SAUTERNES, FRANCE ($18.33/375 ML)
Clear, medium-deep yellow. Intense nose of passion fruit, ripe banana, pineapple and “noble rot.” Full bodied with a soft mouthfeel and lingering finish. Tastes of marshmallows, apples and citrus. Will improve for a few more years, then last a long time. (RL)*
93 VERGER ST DENIS POMME DE GLACE ORIGINAL ICE CIDER 2011, QUEBEC ($23.95/375 ML)
Fancy a change from Icewine? This apple-based product is bronze-coloured with a high-toned nose of Calvados. Medium-bodied, off-dry apple flavour; beautifully balanced with a creamy mouthfeel. Great tension between apple sweetness and citrus acidity. (TA)
92 WARRE’S QUINTA DA CAVADINHA VINTAGE PORT 2001, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($49) A vintage port you can drink now with pleasure or hold for 10 years. Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy blackberry/mulberry nose and evident spirits on the nose; full bodied, sweet mulberry, well extracted, rich and full on the palate. (TA)
92 TRIUS VIDAL ICEWINE 2015, NIAGARA ($54)
This is the first vintage of this wine not to be aged in old wood, thus imbuing it with a more fruit-driven, fresher personality. Honey, sponge toffee, brined olive, peach compote, pink grapefruit and apple juice. Long sweet finale with lovely acidity. (ES) 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
91 PONDVIEW VIDAL ICEWINE 2014, NIAGARA ($19.95/200 ML)
Superb value alert! This stickie inundates the palate with honey, peach, pineapple, lemon, lime, smoke and pear. Excellent length. Perfect by itself or with a vanilla cheesecake. (ES)
91 PONDVIEW RIESLING ICEWINE 2015, NIAGARA ($60/375 ML)
This is Pondview’s first effort with Riesling Icewine. The nose shows lovely peach, honey, tropical fruits and candied citrus notes. It’s lush on the palate with flavours of mango, apricot, guava, poached pear and wild honey with subtle notes of almond and caramel on the finish. Nicely balanced by firm acidity. (RV)
90 TAWSE CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2014, NIAGARA ($35) The nose shows sweet cherry, cranberry, raspberry and light bramble notes. It’s unctuous on the palate, like velvet, with flavours of cran-cherry, sweet raspberry pie and balancing acidity that leads to a long, long finish. (RV)
90 STREWN RIESLING ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($63)
Mature elements of petrol, buckwheat honey, spice, cherry pith, lime on the nose mesh with caramel, wax and candied honey on the palate. Excellent length, luscious and ready to be served well chilled. (ES)
88 BLANDY’S ALVADA 5 YEAR OLD RICH MADEIRA, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL ($15/200 ML)
A new product from the historic Madeira house of Blandy’s, and a daring one at that. Breaking from an exclusive monovarietal tradition, this modern Madeira is a 50/50 blend of Malvasia and Bual, aged in the traditional cask-and-loft canteiro system for 5 years. Potent fruitcake, rancio notes, aged wood, sugared plums and maple syrup coat the round and juicy palate, thankfully lifted with a lime marmalade cut and carried by a smoothed, sweet midtone to a fiery, orange-oil finish. Ideal for cocktails. This is ready to drink now, particularly if you’re looking for an alternative to youthful tawny port or sweeter Oloroso (and in a pocketable 200 ml size). (TR)
88 THE HARE WINE CO. FRONTIER COLLECTION 2013, NIAGARA ($65)
Easy drinking with moderate aromas of lime, mineral, peach, apple and sponge toffee. Very good length. (ES)
87 MONTE CREEK RANCH RIESLING ICEWINE 2014, OKANAGAN ($50/375 ML)
Rich with penetrating citrus, apricot and candied ginger spice, but fresh with bracing acidity to balance the sweetness. (GB)
SPIRITS COCK RUSSELL AND COMPANY BOODLES BRITISH GIN LONDON DRY, UNITED KINGDOM ($30.99)
Very pure aromatics, led by characteristic scents of juniper. Extremely smooth and refined on the palate showing no rough edges or spirity heat, this elegant gin compares favourably with much higher-priced spirits. (SW)
CIDER ANNAPOLIS CIDER COMPANY HEIRLOOM CIDER, NOVA SCOTIA ($16.95)
Made from traditional apples such as Gravenstein, Golden Russet and Northern Spy, this cider is finished by adding freshly pressed apples to add colour and fresh apple flavour. It offers aromatic scents of honeyed ripe apples with gentle fizz, lightly sweet apple flavours, balancing dry grip and an off-dry finish. (SW)
ANNAPOLIS CIDER COMPANY OLD FASHIONED GRAVENSTEIN, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.95)
Shy-scented apple with yellow apple flavour, gentle effervescence and a refreshingly light dry finish. (SW)
ANNAPOLIS CIDER COMPANY HOPPED PEAR, NOVA SCOTIA ($14.95/750 ML)
Striking and appealing aromatic charac-
ter is hard to describe. Strong floral and barely discernable herbal scents mix with subtle tree fruits, evolving on the palate to lightly-sweet pear flavour with contrasting dry grip and a long pear finish. (SW)
PLANTER’S RIDGE RUMMED CIDER, NOVA SCOTIA ($12/500 ML)
Bright golden honey colour revealing floral blossom, ripe apple and honeyed scents. Sweet, honeyed-apple flavours on the palate are tempered by a warming sensation imparted by the 8% blend of Ironworks Bluenose Rum in the mix. (SW)
new lambics) is designed to quench thirst with zingy lemon, sour apple, expressive bubbles and a long, dry finish. (CL)
PEI BREWING GAHAN ISLAND RED, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND ($3.95/500 ML)
Sparkling copper brew has a rich grain and toffee character and a whisper of herbs, offset by a firm hop bitterness. Pair with grilled chicken and a green salad. (CL)
HALF HOURS ON EARTH BREWERY WHITE DWARF, ONTARIO ($6.50/500 ML)
This bright golden ale releases an enthralling floral bouquet with peach, banana and vanilla accents. Effortlessly fluffy and creamy thanks to additions of oats and wheat, its sweet centre will sing alongside prosciutto-wrapped spring asparagus. (CL)
The remote location of this small-town Ontario brewery hasn’t stopped its funky, sour farmhouse brews from selling out thanks to the droves of sour beer lovers ordering bottles online. The aroma is pleasantly perfumey, with whiffs of tangy orange blossom and floral chamomile tea. This farmhouse witbier drinks like a fuzzy peach, tart and fruity, with bright acidity and a flowery finale that lasts through the finish. Well worth a try, if you can get it. (The Seaforth, Ontario brewery ships its beers every week through its website.) (CL)
COWBELL BREWING CO DOC PERDUE’S BOBCAT, ONTARIO ($2.95/473 ML)
OMER VANDER GHINSTE BREWERY CUVÉE DES JACOBINS, BELGIUM ($4.15/330 ML)
BEER BROUWERIJ BOSTEELS TRIPEL KARMELIET STRONG BELGIAN ALE, BELGIUM ($3.65/330 ML)
This offering from one of Ontario’s most ambitious new breweries is a lusciously malty red ale pouring a shiny, deep-blush hue with captivating notes of pine, tree sap and a touch of berry. These notes carry through to the flavour with a full and creamy body before grapefruit peel and pine notes kick in for a pleasant, lingering bitterness. (CL)
LINDEMANS CUVÉE RENÉ, BELGIUM ($6.95/355 ML)
Lambic beer is fermented the ancient way — with wild, airborne yeasts. Then it undergoes a secondary fermentation in large barrels, each populated with its own community of microflora, before being blended together to make gueze. This is one of the only unsweetened offerings from family-owned Lindemans, who have been brewing this style of beer since the 1890s. This gueze (a blend of aged and
Wild-fermented Belgian beauty features notes of well-aged balsamic vinegar and sour cherries with puckering acidity from start to finish. It’s a fun contrast with decadent chocolate desserts — sip it with the richest chocolate cake you can find. (CL)
MUSKOKA BREWERY RUFF DRAUGHT TROPICAL BLONDE ALE, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
When Ontario indie rockers Born Ruffians joined forces with Muskoka Brewery to create a one-off collaboration beer, the band wanted something clean and crisp that they could drink after a sweaty show on the road. The resulting sessionable pale ale was such a hit with festival goers that it won “Best of the Fest,” earning it a spot on LCBO shelves this spring. This light-bodied, bubbly blonde ale has juicy pineapple and citrus on the nose and palate, with a light honey malt backbone. (CL)
DRIFTWOOD BREWERY FAT TUG IPA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($6/650 ML)
Debuting in 2008, this IPA is a virtual melon bomb: cantaloupe and honeydew with a dry, resin-like finish designed to satiate island potheads ... er, hopheads. Driftwood Brewery, based in Victoria, recently expanded its distribution and is more widely available coast to coast, including a permanent listing at the LCBO in Ontario. Sip it alongside spicy tacos to turn up the heat of the Mexican dish. (CL)
GREAT LAKES BREWERY OCTOPUS WANTS TO FIGHT IPA, ONTARIO ($3.25/473 ML)
Celebrating its 30th year brewing craft beer, Great Lakes Brewery is unleashing its full lineup of finely crafted, award-winning IPAs in celebration of the big b-day. Octopus gushes with juicy, sometimes musty, tropical fruits with a hefty dose of earthy pine resin. Try it with a spicy mango salad; the fruity notes will find harmony, and the big bold bitterness will amp up the spice factor. (CL)
BRASSEURS DU MONDE L’ÉCURIEUX NUT BROWN ALE, QUEBEC ($4.95/500 ML)
Dark caramel, molasses and toasted nuts on the nose. Surprisingly light after this “heavy” nose, its taste follows the same theme. It may seem a tad sweet but it is in fact completely dry. No bitterness in the soft finish. (GBQc)
BRASSEURS DU MONDE BIG BEN PORTER, QUEBEC ($4.95/500 ML) Dark chocolate and caramel notes, heavily toasted. Velvety mouthfeel, almost thick texture with just enough acidity to keep it fresh on the palate. A tiny bit of bitterness helps there too. A beer to drink slowly to fully appreciate its richness. (GBQc)
MILL STREET BREWERY TANK HOUSE ALE, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($3.65/473 ML)
Rich copper-red in colour with appetizingly robust hoppy and malty aromas and bold malty flavour, finishing with satisfying hoppy bitterness. A well-balanced, flavourful all-rounder. (SW) MAY/JUNE 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
IN PRAISE OF THE ISO THERE ARE THREE EPIPHANIES IN THE LIFE OF THE DEDICATED WINE LOVER. The
first is the discovery of wine itself — the first time you tasted it and found it had nothing to do with any other liquid you’d put in your mouth. The second is your first encounter with a truly great wine, one that just knocked your socks off and had you running barefoot in the streets, crying “Eureka!” The third is the recognition that a wine — any wine — tastes better out of a vessel that has been specially designed to deliver it to the palate in a way that shows it at its best. The company responsible for the revolution in wine glasses is Riedel, an Austrian business that dates back to 1756. The company has designed specific glasses for virtually every major grape variety on the planet. Today they have loads of competitors in the classy stemware department. The Robert Mondavi Winery was first out of the blocks to beat the drum for Riedel. In the early 1990s, I attended a tasting of Mondavi Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon served in three different glass shapes, one of which was the Riedel glass designed for wines made for those particular grapes. (You can replicate this tasting at home by tasking a V-shaped cocktail glass, a water beaker and a tulip-shaped glass.) The result was a “Road to Damascus” revelation. The wine tasted better from the Riedel vessels. “Content commands shape” is a Riedel maxim that sounds like something Marshall McLuhan might have uttered in his cups. But when it comes to the enjoyment of wine, shape, it seems, matters. Recently I did a comparison of some expensive stemware. I wanted to test them against the glass that I use at home to evaluate wines for Quench: the ISO glass. ISO is the International Organization for Standardization glass shaped like an elongated egg on a shortish stem. It can hold 215 ml of wine, but it is intended to take a 50 ml pour. I put this simple glass up against the Riedel Vinum Chardonnay/Montrachet glass, the Eisch Breathable Glass, the Lucaris Desire Universal, the Zalto Burgundy glass, Zalto Bordeaux, Zalto Universal and the Oberglas Passion Red glass. The object of the exercise was to find out if the manufacturers of these glasses could actually make the wine taste better in their designated glass rather than the simple all-purpose ISO that the LCBO uses in their tasting lab and I use at home. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2017
The bottles I poured were two whites from Ontario — one with oak and one without — Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2015 and Henry of Pelham Unoaked Chardonnay 2015, as well as Henry of Pelham Speck Family Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2012. The best result for the oaked Chardonnay was the Zalto Burgundy glass ($79.95 a stem), followed by the Riedel Vinum Chardonnay/Montrachet glass ($33.95 a stem). A point behind came my ISO (6 for $50). For the unoaked Chardonnay, again the Zalto Burgundy glass excelled but I preferred what the ISO delivered on the nose to the bouquet that rose from the Riedel glass. The red wine comparison was even more of a revelation. Hands down the ISO offered me the most complete tasting experience. My note read: “Speck Family Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2012 in ISO: dense ruby colour; cedary, blackcurrant nose with a touch of smoky oak; medium-bodied, petit château style, beautifully balanced, elegant, quite forward, good length. (92)” Basically the cheapest glass gave the best result. The ISO may not look the handsomest on a dinner party table but for assessing wine — without having to resort to a cabinet filled with glasses dedicated to every known grape variety — the humble ISO is a winner. Loved the look of the Zalto, but at that price I’d be terrified to use them. Their exceptionally long stem is no thicker than a knitting needle. So, back to the ISO, the Volkswagen of tasting glasses. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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