Quench March/April 18

XAD GREEK FRUITS TO COME Ca n ned Peaches

Welcome to the fresh world of canned peaches!

Peach compote: - fully preserves the freshness of the fruit - improves the nutritional efficiency of vitamins C and A - can be relished all year round - is easy to use, in numerous ways - contains no preservatives or GMOs

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APRIL 2018 16 DIVERSITY IS STRENGTH KONRAD EJBICH OUR WINE INDUSTRY HAS EMBRACED VITICULTURAL DIVERSITY, AS WE HAVE AS A COUNTRY ... WITH STUNNING RESULTS.

24 TIDY LITTLE BOXES TIM PAWSEY WHILE STILL SOMEWHAT UNDER THE RADAR, WINES FROM PORTUGAL’S LISBOA REGION ARE ON THE RISE.

38

22 | A SPARK OF INTEREST MICHAEL PINKUS White wine from Spain has long been overshadowed. Until now.

SAUCE IT

DUNCAN HOLMES

30 | CLOSE TO HOME JOANNE WILL

A MEAL CAN ALWAYS BE MADE MORE EXCITING WHEN IT’S NAPPED OR SWAMPED WITH A GREAT SAUCE. IT’S SIMPLY THE WAY WE EAT.

It has taken me a long time to appreciate the full value and importance of foods that are native to where I live.

32 | THEY SAY PÁLINKÁS JÓ REGGELT! TOD STEWART Pálinka is the heart of Hungary.

35 | NOTHING TO SHAKE AT TARA LUXMORE Sherry is having a little bit of a renaissance among super wine and cocktail geeks.

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BACK OF THE BOOK 42 | DIET FOR A HEALTHIER AND KINDER PLANET NANCY JOHNSON Not only is veganism considered a healthier lifestyle choice, many are motivated by ethical and environmental concerns.

44 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

66 | ALL THOSE BUBBLES TONY ASPLER Bubbly. Fizz. Champers. Whatever you happen to call it, know this: sparkling wine sales around the world are exploding.

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4 @ QUENCH_MAG

EDITOR’S NOTE THE NEXT BIG THING ISN’T ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW. IT DOESN’T ALWAYS COME OUT OF LEFT FIELD AND IT DEFINITELY ISN’T ALWAYS ABOUT THE YOUNG GENERATION. Sometimes the

next big thing has been right there under your nose the whole time.

There’s nothing more exciting than the resurgence of an old favourite. In an ideal world, nothing gets dusty. In the real world, trends ebb and flow.

Let’s hope the slinky makes a comeback.

In this, our annual Next Big Thing issue, we have a lot to talk about. From Canadian winemakers using not-so-traditional grapes, to Portugals flowing region of Lisboa, to saucy recipes, we have it all.

But nothing surprised us more than a somewhat forgotten Spanish wine making its way into our cocktails. Sherry has long required a smoking jacket and a roaring fireplace to truly enjoy. Now, while I still recommend the smoking jacket, we’re finding fino, amontillado and oloroso on bar menus across the country. This diverse and complicated drink is punching up Tiki recipes and giving new life to ingredient hungry mixologists. That, my friends, is the definition of a Next Big Thing.

Visit the YouTube channel for our view on the Next Big thing in wine, featuring Quench wine editor Gurvinder Bhatia. youtube.com/c/quenchmagazine

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Evan Saviolidis is a Wine Tasting Challenge Champion, CAPS Sommelier Instructor, Ontario Wine Journalist of the Year and Educator of the Year. He offers wine appreciation courses and tastings through his company, Wine-Savvy Consultants. www.evanwinesavvy.com WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE COCKTAIL?

One word! Sazerac.

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APRIL 2018 7

UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA

DISTILLED TO ITS ESSENCE

In the last five years, there’s been a boom in new drinks; craft beer, cocktails and spirits make for a wide selection of alcohol-based experiences. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for our non-alcoholic enjoying friends. Ben Branson wanted to change this. So he created Seedlip.

Seedlip, a range of distilled non-alcoholic spirits, is the product of Branson’s personal experiments — the remnants of which can be found in his home and garage in Amersham, UK. “In 2013, I was researching herbs online to grow at home and came across […] The Art of Distillation [a book] that documented these remedies,” Branson recounts. “I initially experimented with a little copper still in my kitchen and herbs from my garden. Three months later, I was out for a meal, wasn’t drinking, and asked the waitress what non-alcoholic options they had; her sad, apologetic face was the moment all the dots joined and I decided to do something about it!”

His mother’s family has been farming Lincolnshire for over 300 years. While working the farm, his ancestors were distilling both alcoholic and non-alcoholic herbal remedies. “Creating Seedlip was the perfect opportunity to bring together my mother’s farming heritage and my father’s brand design expertise,” he states, “to rid the world of poor, fruity and sweet soft drinks and solve the dilemma of what to drink when you’re not drinking.”

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The current line up, which includes Garden 108 and Spice 94, were inspired

by Branson’s passion for natural ingredients. “I love peas,” he says. “Nature is our compass and the pleasure we get from hand-picking peas from my farm that are then distilled so that we are able to serve it with tonic at an event and garnish with peas, well to us, it’s the perfect journey!”

It’s an exciting time in the drinks industry, one led by innovative minds like Branson’s. He and his team are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible without alcohol. “We’re doing this in two key ways,” Branson says. “We are inspiring bar and restaurant teams to give as much attention and effort to their non-alc offering as they do to their alc cocktails and food menus, and we have developed a range of exciting cocktails with Seedlip that showcase what’s possible when you

think beyond fruit juices and syrups. Our recently launched NOgroni was the result of eight months of work and 22 ingredients that we launched to the some of the best bartenders out there at the World’s 50 Best Bar Awards in London.”

In just two years, Branson took Seedlip from a one-man kitchen operation (that sold out within weeks of launch) to a full-fledged team providing non-alcoholic spirits to restaurants, bars and retailers across the UK, the United States and now in Canada. And he won’t stop there.

“We are launching our third product [this] spring, which is really exciting and I’m afraid my lips are sealed,” Branson teases. “We have also been working on a dark spirit for the last three years. It’s technically extremely difficult, but hopefully 2018 will be the year my Master Blender and I can crack it!”×

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AT T H E C O R N E R H O U S E

FLOR DE SAL TO COME

Modern cuisine influenced by the foods of Southern Europe 501 Davenport Road, Toronto | flordesalrestaurant.ca info@flordesalrestaurant.ca | 416.923.2604

Cristina da Costa Owner

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GOOD FOOD NANCY JOHNSON

STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE WITH PECAN CRUST YIELDS ABOUT 10 SLICES PECAN CRUST

3/4 cup pecans, ground in food processor 3/4 cup graham cracker crumbs 3 tbsp butter, melted

FILLING

4 4 1 1/4 1 2

packages cream cheese, softened eggs cups sugar tbsp fresh lemon juice tsp vanilla extract

TOPPING

2 cups sour cream 1/4 cup sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract

STRAWBERRY GLAZE

STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE FOREVER Juicy, plump red strawberries are the delicious reward for enduring a long, cold winter. Buy them as the weather warms up or when their prices are lowest in the summer, as the local season peaks — at least in Canada. Freeze what you don’t eat now for smoothies later. While wild strawberries have been around since ancient Roman times, the strawberry we know today was first cultivated in Brittany, France in the late 18th century. Nutritionally, strawberries provide antioxidants, fibre, folate, potassium, magnesium and vitamin C. They’re also low in calories unless, of course, you enjoy them in this decadent cheesecake, a lovely dessert to offer guests at a spring gathering.

× SEARCH THROUGH OUR HUGE LIBRARY OF RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/

1/4 2 1 4

cup water tbsp corn starch jar strawberry jelly cups strawberries, sliced

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a medium bowl, mix together pecans, crumbs and butter. Press into the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan. Set aside.

3. Make filling: In a large mixing bowl, beat cream cheese at high speed until smooth. Add eggs, sugar, lemon juice and vanilla. Mix thoroughly. Spoon over crust.

4. Bake at 350°F for 50 minutes. Remove from oven and let stand 15 minutes.

5. In a medium mixing bowl, beat sour cream, sugar and vanilla until smooth. Spread over cake and return to 350˚F oven for 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate.

6. Before serving, make glaze: In a small bowl, mix water and corn starch together until smooth. In a medium saucepan, add water/corn starch mixture.

Add jelly and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until jelly melts and mixture thickens.

Cool to room temperature. Remove cake from springform pan.

7. Arrange strawberries on top of cheesecake. Spoon glaze over berries. Alternatively, to make cutting the cheesecake easier, you can mix the strawberries and glaze together and serve in a separate sauce bowl. × APRIL 2018 11

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

So “more” tends to apply in regard to what we’ll be seeing. For instance, we’ll be seeing more of some of the obvious favourites of the past few years. The beautifully tart kettle sours like the ones coming out of Seaforth, Ontario’s Half Hours on Earth will still be a constant in many brewery taprooms. And the hazy, juicy Vermont IPAs that look more like a glass of orange juice than beer will definitely not be going anywhere (I daresay there’d be riots if breweries stopped making them).

I even think we’ll be seeing more of the Milkshake IPA, an IPA made with lactose and vanilla to give it an overall creamy mouthfeel which, when brewed with a particularly fruit-forward hop character or with fruit itself, makes a beer that has both charmed and confused so many with its sweet and hop-forward flavours.

For 2017, Toronto’s Bellwoods Brewery really set the scene with their Milkshark series, which included MATT BRYNILDSON FROM THE FIRESTONE variations such as strawberry, mango, WALKER BREWING COMPANY pink guava and pineapple. Additionally, Farnham Brewery, which has locations in Farnham, Quebec and Burlington, Vermont, has made some excellent Milkshake IPAs with their 66 series, pressing the limits of how fruity a profile hops can achieve.

But it should be said that with the ever-growing landscape, craft nerds are no longer the only demographic for craft beer and, blessedly, the focus has gotten much wider and a hell of a lot more welcoming. So, with that in mind, we can look forward to a continuation of beer styles in the mode of “simple done well” to appeal to beer aficionados and newcomers alike. From the delicate grass and citrus flavours in Firestone Walker Brewing’s Pivo Pils to the lightly bready and herbal notes in Side Launch Brewing’s popular Munich Helles Mountain Lager, light-bodied and accessible are the qualities that are winning the war for better beer.

What’s more, these beers don’t have to adhere to a classic style. Often a simple dry-hop addition creates a flavour that craft lovers appreciate and newcomers use as an appropriate That’s the main word that is often used when someone asks step to bolder tasting beers. A prime example would be Regina, me what the next big trend in craft beer is going to be. More. More Saskatchewan’s District Brewing with their West Coast Wheat breweries. More beer. More festivals. More retail spaces. More Lager. The mouthfeel is light and smooth, but it’s the significant styles. It might seem a little catch-all and chaotic, and it is, but cracked pepper and lemon drop flavours that set it apart from that’s the reality we’re in. With new breweries seemingly opening other humdrum lagers in the market. up every week now, we’re seeing a spectacular rise in selection, So, let’s raise a glass to more beer, more breweries and most proving that every day is indeed the best day for Craft. importantly, more good times. ×

MORE OF THIS: WHAT TO EXPECT IN THE FUTURE OF CRAFT BEER “More.”

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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

A BARTENDER’S BLEND

SOMETIMES IT SEEMS LIKE BARTENDERS HAVE ALL THE LUCK. After

all, the top dogs get lavish trips to places like Scotland, Mexico and Barbados to tour distilleries and sample regional fare.

In their off-time, they travel to cocktail weeks in great cities around the world.

Upping the ante, spirits companies are even custom-making products for them.

Last year, for instance, saw the arrival of Auchentoshan’s Bartender’s Malt as well as the Martell Blue Swift, a Cognac blend which is finished in bourbon barrels and specifically made for mixing.

Just what type of cocktails are bartenders making with these bartender-friendly spirits? When it comes to Blue Swift, many are sticking close to classic Jazz Age recipes, since that’s an era in which brandy-based cocktails really rose to the occasion. In the 1920s, with Prohibition in effect in the United States, a considerable number of American bartenders moved to Europe — especially Paris — so they could continue to work in their chosen profession. With bourbon and rye no longer available, a whole new cocktail canon was invented, much of which used brandy or cognac as a base. These are the ones coming back into fashion.

“I think cognac drinks are definitely getting a lot more recognition,” says Aaron Male, a Toronto bartender and consultant who works on custom spirited × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

events. “I mean, the bourbon renaissance helped bring back a lot of classic cocktails and, now that people are getting a little more cocktail-savvy and knowledgeable, I think cognac is getting its turn.”

Cognac cocktails took a little longer to re-emerge than its bourbon cousins, in part because cognac is more expensive to mix with. Blue Swift, for example, is around the $100 mark in Canada, meaning that it won’t be on the rail except at high-end bars and hotels. Some people still express a little resistance towards mixing the spirit, having grown up watching cognac served neat after dinner or, in extenuating circumstances, in a hot toddy. It was for Bond villains, people suffering from the flu and men in club chairs.

“Cognac used to be the old man’s drink, served in a snifter, usually with a cigar,” says Male, recalling the days when he first started in the restaurant business. “People used to take hot water and warm up the glass. And I think now people are realizing that’s not even the best way to drink it.”

That would be in a Riedel cognac glass (or a good sherry copita) and served at room temperature. Or, to many, mixed in a drink. And for those who want to start playing with cognac cocktails, Male advises sticking to the classic formulas. Blue Swift, for example, will show well in a simple Cognac Old Fashioned or Sazerac.

Male got a little more ambitious, however, when we asked him for a recipe.

Inspired by the Vieux Carré, a classic cognac cocktail as well as a recent visit to Paris, where he saw Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas’s famous house, Male concocted the 27 rue de Fleurus, which he shared with us here.

“It’s a twist on a Vieux Carré, but made for two,” says Male. “So many restaurants are doing shareable plates and menus, so I figured, why not cocktails?”

27 RUE DE FLEURUS

1 1/2 oz cognac 1 oz sweet vermouth (French, if possible) 1 oz Canadian whisky 4 oz Sloane Chocolate Truffle tea (it has some great dry cocoa nib and vanilla notes and isn’t too sweet) 3 dashes Bittered Sling Malagasy Chocolate Bitters 1 dash orange bitters

Brew the tea in advance and let it cool.

Add all ingredients to an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir for 45 seconds. Strain and pour into two tea cups. Alternatively, Male says it can be served warm, a perfect way to stay warm as we impatiently wait for spring to truly arrive. × APRIL 2018 13

PREP KITCHEN

GLUTEN-FREE PASTA DOUGH

70

2

50

50

1

3

2

1-2

DON’T FLOUR IT UP You might think that eating gluten free is only for those suffering from an intolerance or celiacs. But more and more people are choosing to reduce their gluten intake.

This easy to make recipe will allow you to get your hands dirty without removing flavour. Check the pasta frequently when cooking and toss with a fresh pesto or light pan-fried cherry-tomato sauce.

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g corn flour (Masa Harina) tsp psyllium husk powder g white rice flour g cornstarch tsp salt yolks + 1 egg tbsp olive oil tbsp water Rice flour for dusting

1. Place all your dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and using the paddle attachment for your mixer to aerate the ingredients.

2. Slowly add the eggs, olive oil and 1 tbsp of water to the mixing bowl.

3. Mix until thoroughly combined and transfer to your work space to knead further.

4. Knead the dough until it’s soft and smooth, using rice flour to make sure it doesn’t stick. If the dough seems dry, add 1 tbsp of water until you get the proper consistency. If it’s too wet, add 1 tbsp of gluten-free flour of your choice.

5. Roll into a ball and wrap your dough in plastic wrap. Set aside at room temperature for approximately 30 minutes.

6. Roll out the dough till you get a nice thin sheet and cut into noodles with a pasta maker or knife.

7. Cook pasta as usual in boiling salty water. Keep an eye on it. Fresh pasta cooks quickly. Strain, rinse and serve immediately with your favourite sauce. ×

BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

I tried to open a very old bottle of red I’ve had for years and the cork not only broke apart, much of it fell into the wine. What gives?

To quote Sean Connery in The Untouchables, it sounds to me like you brought a knife to a gunfight. If you’re buying older vintages of wine or cellaring away young ones to open much later while lacking the right tools to get the darn things opened properly, you deserve every floaty you find bobbing in your beverage.

The prevalence of screwcaps has made people lazy when it comes to wine-related accoutrements. I’d be a rich man if I got a buck every time I was met with rolling eyes when I showed up at a dinner party with a wine under cork. That’s why I always travel with my own extractor. The time of even my mother-inlaw having a drawer full of corkscrews is officially over.

While I can forgive most for forsaking their foil thanks to the ease of a swift-off top, you sound like a wine aficionado with more money than sense. No matter how fancy the space either you or your local wine shop employs to keep their wines in drinkable condition, corks will age alongside the juice inside the bottle. Sure, storing wine on its side will keep the bottom of the cork damp and expansive to ensure unwanted air doesn’t make it past its seal, but time will have its way with the rest. Even topnotch corks, though remaining solid inside the bottle’s neck, will become very fragile, requiring a gentle hand and professional equipment to remove them in one piece.

Why do you think Port producers use those fancy heated tongs to snap off the necks of their older wines? Even they can’t get their own corks out without the fear of fragmented ramifications. If you can’t get your head around in investing in a Class A corkscrew, stop complaining and just decant out any unwanted solids before they hit your glass. × ASK YOUR QUESTIONS AT BONVIVANT@QUENCH.ME

What’s a cult wine?

As if all the images the word “cult” conjures weren’t twisted enough, its association to wine has a definition that’s duller than an old-timey corkscrew. At first blush, you might think a cult wine’s juice is pressed at some compound in Texas, especially when most of wine made in the Lone Star State (yes, they make wine there) can be considered cult. Confused yet? Let’s take a step back.

If you Google the word cult, one of the less sanctimonious descriptions is “a misplaced or excessive admiration for a particular person or thing.” That characterization is usually applied to people who adore things like movies or recordings that are so bad, they’re good. Who doesn’t have a friend who’s only one lonely night away from starting a Facebook fan page dedicated to The Rocky Horror Picture Show, The Room or just about any Kiss album post-Destroyer?

When it comes to wine, cult takes on the opposite connotation with the distinction attached to those wines that, while exceling in quality, are only made in small amounts. So rather than them being so crap they’re cool, they’re celebrated for their uniqueness and collectability.

Trouble is, with cult comes cost (to you). That means any bottle hip enough for the nickname will automatically have a higher price tag hanging around its neck. Everyone wants in on that action, so the market is knee-deep in limited editions and/ or only sold from a winery’s cellar door type wines.

Small Canadian boutique (a kinder, gentler term for cult) wineries have certainly drunk the Kool-Aid. With production typically too tiny to make selling to provincial monopolies worth the paperwork, getting them into your glass takes some effort. When you can get a bottle, the less fortunate of your geeky friends will see red (or white or rosé), which is at the root of why cult wines have become so popular. × APRIL 2018 15

DIVERSITY

by Konrad Ejbich

IS STRENGTH

Our wine industry has embraced diversity, as we have as a country ... with stunning results. Recently, I invited winemakers from every region of Canada to send me samples of their offbeat grape varieties, in a quest to find out just how adventurous they are. On the following pages are the results of my recent tasting, wine by wine and grape by grape. This wasn’t just an apples and oranges kind of experiment, it was more like kumquats and kiwanos.

Canadian grape growers used to cultivate predominantly labrusca varieties: Catawba, Concord, Delaware, Isabella, Niagara, Okanagan Riesling.

By the time I became a wine lover, there were also a few “modern” hybrids coming on board, including Baco Noir, Chambourcin, Chelois, De Chaunac, Marechal Foch, Seyval and Vidal.

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DEREK BARNETT, WINEMAKER AT KARLO ESTATES

Agricultural colleges, like the one at the University of Guelph, recommended avoiding viniferas, suggesting they would not survive in our climate. However, a few pioneers refused to listen. They were mavericks — people like Paul Bosc, Don Eastman, Bill Lenko and John Marynissen. As nonconformists, they gambled on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Their work eventually paid off and today these varieties are widely planted throughout the country.

Over the decades, with every new generation and every new winery, Canadian winemakers have been pushing their boundaries even further by planting unconventional grape varieties. Every new vineyard has been an experiment.

Nebbiolo in Quebec? Kékfrankos in Nova Scotia? Yup. They’re here! From Aglianico to Zweigelt, we grow them all.

Frankly, as I tasted these bottles, I was taken aback by the high level of winemaking. The wines were, for the most part, consistently clean, fresh, ripe, pure and healthy.

Every white wine I tasted, without exception, exhibited true textbook characteristics of its unique grape DNA, making it a pleasure to explore the varietal differences. By comparison, some of the reds still need work.

Stylistically, aromatically, texturally and flavour-wise, each wine hit the double bull’s-eye by representing its intrinsic nature accurately. As a group, they clearly expressed the cool Canadian climate, young northern soils, regional nuances and, as mentioned earlier, outstanding overall wine making.

“What a fabulous tasting!” I wrote in my notebook. The wines demonstrate the amazing diversity of what we are able to produce in this country. These varieties are suited to Canadian soils and climes, and they offer their own unique spin on what constitutes Canadian terroir.

BRITISH COLUMBIA CEDARCREEK EHRENFELSER 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18.99)

Mannhardt Vineyard’s 40-year-old vines yield some of the most aromatic fruit I’ve had from the Okanagan. The lively bouquet reminds me of Turkish delight, lemon drops, incense, candied fruits and white currant jelly. Ripe and refreshing with a light, clean finish. Can age a couple of years, but I like its youthful freshness.

274 cases produced.

APRIL 2018 17

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN DISCOVERY SERIES TEMPRANILLO 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($29.99)

CULMINA UNICUS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($29)

We need more of this wonderful Austrian grape grown in Canada. Imposing straw, green-gold tint. Intense nose, full, jarring and inviting. Bold, fruity, dry, lemon-tinged, smoky and mineral laden with tight structure and plenty of grip. Delicious cellar-worthy food wine. Volume undisclosed.

GRAY MONK EHRENFELSER 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($17.39)

Arguably the largest buyer of this variety in the province and in the country. Spectacularly jubilant fruit dominates the nose and palate.

Orange marmalade, candied fruit, wild and lovely flavours with a refreshing, juicy finish.

GRAY MONK PINOT AUXERROIS 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($15.99)

From 30-year-old estate-grown vines. Pale green-gold hue with the slightest hint of spritz. Juicy, dry palate with bright, fresh lemon-lime notes, medium body and a clean, slightly nutty, food-friendly finish. DYA. GRAY MONK ROTBERGER ROSÉ 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($14.79)

There’s quite a following for this summer sipper. Pale salmon hue.

High-toned, honeyed fruit nose with highlights of pink grapefruit, rose petals and orange zest. Medium-bodied, supple and bright with fruit and berry flavours, crisp acid and a fine-fruit finish. Firm structure and dry mineral finish.

HESTER CREEK OLD VINES TREBBIANO BLOCK 16 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($23.95)

The variety is widely grown in Italy, also known as Ugni Blanc in Cognac. Winemaker Rob Summers has crafted a gem from old vines planted by Joe Busnardo in 1968. Vinous nose with hints of white flowers, lemon blossom and almond kernel. Full, flavourful and oh so good. Tropical southern flavours with firm northern structure. A real find.

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN DISCOVERY SERIES CHENIN BLANC 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($16.99)

Ruby-garnet bowl and rim. Lovely bouquet of stewed tree fruits along with a rich mocha chocolate overtone. Noble and approachable taste showcasing dark red and black fruit and berry flavours, vanilla and oak through to a lithe and supple finish. Exceptional.

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN DISCOVERY SERIES TEMPRANILLO ICEWINE 2012, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($86.99/375 ML)

Deep and brilliant ruby-tawny hue with polished copper reflections. Bright aromas of candied fruit, ripe strawberry, red cherry with a gentle underlying nuttiness. Superb balance of thick, ripe, sweet fruit nectar and juicy, mouth-watering acidity that leaves the palate cleansed, refreshed and with a lingering taste of fruit essence. And such a baby!

MOON CURSER ARNEIS 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22.52)

This Italian variety is even rare in the land of its origin — Piedmont.

Very pale hue, a colourless green-gold. The light, bright nose is delicate, floral and spicy. Dry, medium-bodied palate, with fine green and white fruit notes, intriguing minerality, bright acidity and a fine, well-knit finish. A real find.

MOON CURSER CARMÉNÈRE 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($37.30)

Bright purple-blue colour with a rich garnet bowl. Charming bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, blackcurrant and black tea with a smidge of lead pencil, i.e., graphite. Supple, medium-bodied and well balanced. Can age a few years. 297 cases.

MOON CURSER DOLCETTO 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23.39)

Unoaked in the Piedmontese style, for freshness, full fruit and youthfulness. Inviting strawberry-cherry-violet nose breaks out on the palate with corpulent, fruity, earthy, meaty, juicy, cherry-pomegranate and leather flavours. Best young and chilled.

A real success.

MOON CURSER TANNAT 2013, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($37.30)

Darkest of dark purple-garnet hues. Elegant and enticing bouquet of black raspberry and plum. A vibrant and complete mouthful with great fruit concentration and excellent tannin control. Tremendous!

Cellar-worthy.

MOON CURSER TEMPRANILLO 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27.74)

Pale golden hue with the faintest blush. Fullish nose with smoky notes of beeswax, broiled peaches, lemon and honey. Feels supple on the palate but finishes light. Intriguing and very tasty.

Cellar-worthy.

Who’d have thought the grape of Rioja would thrive in BC? Ruby-purple tint fades slightly at the rim. Noble and elegant bouquet, thick with lush raspberry and plum flavours. Clean and pure. Balanced with soft tannins and plenty of fruit to finish. A terrific sip. Cellar-worthy.

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN DISCOVERY SERIES MALBEC 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23.99)

ROAD 13 OLD VINES CHENIN BLANC 2014, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($27)

High-toned nose featuring ripe fruits, dark berries, violets and minty chocolate. A cheery wine with bright flavours of milk chocolate, cream and black cherry sweets. There’s a slight herbal undertone reminiscent of crushed tarragon and green pepper. Lovely texture and smooth, lingering finish.

Discovered this older bottle in my cellar. From vines planted in 1968. Rich gold, developing amber reflections. Ripe tree fruits, stone fruits, peach, white plum and honeyed pear. Round and supple, dry, with plenty of acidity and fruit tannins to keep it fresh and developing several more years.

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MEGALOMANIAC WINERY IN VINELAND, ONTARIO

STONEBOAT VINEYARDS ROCK OPERA RESERVE 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($34.90) ROAD 13 MARSANNE 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($20.87)

Like most products on the company website, this too is sold out. Rich golden tint with dense amber reflections. Big, bold, firm, oak-fermented nose of ripe pear, vanilla, caramel and wine gums. Mouth-filling and supple with a fullness and roundness rarely achieved with white varieties in Canada. Wowza! Only 75 cases produced.

ROAD 13 ROUSSANNE 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25.22)

A Wine Club exclusive, also sold out. Rich gold colour with amber reflections. Ripe and powerful nose of dried pineapple, honeyed pear and toasted skinless almonds. Full-bodied, richly flavoured palate of semi-dried fruits saturated in Lyle’s Golden Syrup. Big, full and lasting palate remains solid through to the finish. A real mouthful. Cellar-worthy.

STONEBOAT VINEYARDS ROCK OPERA 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($24.90)

Garnet bowl fades to a red-brick rim. Ripe and inviting nose of stewed strawberries and warm raw meat. Ever-so-slightly herbal.

Rustic and gamy flavours of leather, roast coffee, chocolate truffles, tar and raw meat. Remarkably easy to enjoy.

STONEBOAT VINEYARDS PINOTAGE ICEWINE 2013, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($36.90/200 ML)

Pale ruby-copper with brilliant amber reflections. Concentrated bouquet of fig, honey and dried date aromas along with herbal notes of rosemary and soy sauce. Cranberry-cherry flavours like bright red candies and the sweetness of frosty icing. Smooth and pleasant to swallow.

Dark garnet colour. Ripe and complex nose of strawberry, black cherry, stewed meat and herbs. Earthy, fruity, meaty notes in a soft, plump, dry, satiny wine with a lush texture and refined finish. Overdelivers.

NOVA SCOTIA LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE TERROIR SERIES KÉKFRANKOS, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY ($35)

Kékfrankos is the Hungarian name for this grape. It’s Lemberger in Germany and Blaufränkisch in Austria. Light ruby colour. Very fruit-forward with a cherry-cola nose reminiscent of candied cherries, those sugary green and red sticky ones you put in fruitcake and spumoni ice cream. Fresh clean and light-bodied, this is a nice wine to serve outdoors lightly chilled with spit-roasted suckling pig.

LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE TERROIR SERIES SCHEUREBE, ANNAPOLIS VALLEY ($28)

Best adapted to the cool climates of Austria and Germany.

Has bright lemon, yellow and gold reflections. If a wine could smell of cool mountaintop potpourri with wildflowers and ripe white berries, this would be it. Inviting floral, fruity aromas along with ripe peach and pear flavours. Fresh and jammy with exuberant grapy marmalade nuances. A very quaffable, joyous and charming wine.

APRIL 2018 19

LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE WINEMAKER JOSH HORTON

Straw-gold, dry and medium-bodied. Full fruit with plenty of lemon and lime flavours, and a clean, salty finish. Perfect with oysters.

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ALIGOTÉ 2016, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($15.95)

Bright, very pale straw. Youthful, ripe, green, juicy nose. Plump and grapey, mouth-filling, focused and balanced. Dry, fresh and quaffable with lemony and white fruit nuances.

ONTARIO BETWEEN THE LINES LEMBERGER RESERVE 2015, FOUR MILE CREEK, NIAGARA ($39.95)

Dark, brooding garnet colour. Oaky, earthy, smoky notes to start with aromas of Darjeeling tea, blackberry syrup and spice. A hearty mouthful: dry, tannic, plummy, nutty and smoky with a solid finish.

CAPE VINEYARDS PINOTAGE ROSÉ 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($25)

A deep salmon-copper colour implies it’s more like a pale red. Plenty of warm red-fruit notes, including ripe apple, plum and cherry.

Full body, full flavour and full-throttle fresh fruits in this mouth-filling and supple rosé. Solid, dry, weighty and balanced.

CASA-DEA MELON DE BOURGOGNE 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($20.95)

In the Loire, where the variety originates, it’s known as Muscadet.

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DEL-GATTO ODYSSEY PINOTAGE 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($45)

Deep, brooding purple-garnet. Youthful nose with dark berry notes — raspberry, blackberry and red plum — and herbal, earthy notes of dark chocolate, roast coffee and forest floor.

Medium-bodied, plump and creamy to start; lean to finish. Distinct minerality. A rustic, workhorse wine with plenty to offer.

FEROX DORNFELDER ICEWINE 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($89.95/375 ML)

A single barrel was produced with grapes from veteran grower Erwin Wiens. The wine was processed under licence at Reif Estate

by Fabian Reis, who is Herbert Konzelmann’s grandson. Bright ruby colour. Fabulously complex, gingery, smoky, chocolate-laden and deliciously fruity. Brings on memories of Sachertorte, Cherries Jubilee, Black Forest cake and Christmas fruitcake all rolled into one.

Thick, rich, lush palate with a clean and balanced finish. Absolutely delightful. Only 600 half-bottles produced.

KARLO CARMÉNÈRE 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($40)

Bottled just 1 day before our tasting. Bright ruby-purple hue.

Exuberant nose of candied red berries, sweet green pepper,

fresh herbs — basil, cilantro, tarragon — along with funky notes of barnyard, green straw and stewed choke cherries, possibly from wild fermentation. This first vintage is from young, property-grown vines.

REIF KERNER RESERVE 2016, NIAGARA RIVER ($18.95)

KARLO MALBEC 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($45)

SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS PETIT VERDOT 2013, FOUR MILE CREEK, NIAGARA ($39.95)

Vegan-friendly. Ruby-purple, fading toward the edge. Fruity/floral aromas centre on black cherry and bush berries along with funky sweet green-pepper notes. Sweet plummy fruit dominates at first while tart fruit acids and tannins leave a dry finish.

LAKEVIEW CELLARS KERNER MORGAN VINEYARD 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($17.95)

Former fighter pilot and member of the elite Snowbirds acrobatic team, Stu Morgan, planted 1.5 acres of Kerner at his lakeshore farm near Beamsville in 1994 and now harvests 6 tonnes of fruit in an average year. Pale straw gold with emerald reflections. The Niagara terroir is wonderfully expressed here on the nose and palate. Candied ginger, sweet citrus, green pineapple and pear purée nuances are offset by lemon-lime acidity for a clean, dry, juicy finish.

Estate grown. Fresh, bright and fruity, with a floral perfume that tilts to dried apricot and preserved orange. Clean texture with refreshing green apple acidity and lime zest finish.

Organic and biodynamically grown on the estate. Noble, deep bouquet is both rich and restrained. Flavours lean toward dark chocolate, blackcurrant tea, blueberry jam and stewed plums. On the palate, it’s still a bit stiff with tight tannic structure but the fruit is there: dark bush berries giving a sense of concentration and depth through to the finish. Cellar-worthy.

STRATUS PETIT VERDOT 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($38)

Enticing, inviting bouquet. Dark chocolate-berry liqueur, cherry and plum fruit syrup. Very elegant and complex nose and taste. Raspberry, strawberry fruit preserves. Soft tannins and supple mouthfeel, round and creamy with a firm finish. Cellar-worthy, 10+ years.

STRATUS SANGIOVESE 2016, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($42)

MALIVOIRE MELON 2016, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($21.95)

The Muscadet grape, as interpreted by a wine producer who loves oysters. Rich golden hue with glints of green. An enticing lemon curd nose, subtly fruity and floral, ripe papaya and quince in the plump, fresh finish. Dry, mineral aftertaste.

MEGALOMANIAC ECCENTRIC SAVAGNIN 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($32.95)

In the Jura region of France, Savagnin is the grape of choice when making Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille. Niagara’s John Howard crafts it into a dry, cellar-worthy white. The brilliance and deep tint of this green-gold wine hints at its tightness, leanness and firmness.

There’s tremendous tension here, with sweet green fruit and herbal influences pulling at each other one moment and co-mingling the next. White gooseberry-like fruit notes. Gripping texture. Subtle nutty finish. Available only by special request.

Light ruby-cherry colour. Fresh nose of cherries, berries and strawberry jam. On the palate, there’s a hint of the fragility in the structure and delicacy of the fruit. There are silky-smooth plum, and leather and cherry notes, but I get the sense the whole thing could collapse unexpectedly soon. Best young and fruity; drink by 2020.

STRATUS TANNAT 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($42)

Dark ruby-garnet colour, dense to the rim. Rich nose, still young and radiant. Strong cedar and graphite notes, like freshly sharpened pencil. Lush fruit, black raspberry, black berry and black cherry. Sensational! Cellar-worthy.

STRATUS TEMPRANILLO 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($42)

PILLITTERI SANGIOVESE ICEWINE 2008, NIAGARA-ON-THELAKE ($35/200 ML)

Deep and solid ruby-garnet to the rim. Aromatic nose: floral, fruity and chocolatey. Noble, elegant bouquet and taste. Thick, lush fruit is smooth and exceptionally rich with flavours of dark berries, black olives, tea, smoke and more. Concentrated and polished. Cellar-worthy.

Amber brown with a golden rim, much like an oloroso sherry.

Sweet, cooked nose with intriguing nuances of hoisin sauce, beef bouillon, molasses and buckwheat honey. Tight, focused palate adds notes of stewed prunes, dried dates, smoky charred fruit, sage, herbs and balsamic figs. Fully mature. 100 cases produced but long sold out. This bottle came from the winery’s library.

QUEBEC

REIF CHENIN BLANC 2016, NIAGARA RIVER ($18.95)

VIGNOBLE CARONE ITALUS NEBBIOLO 2015, QUEBEC ($28)

Produced from the same patch of vines every year. As the vines get older, the wine gets better. Pale gold with a twinkle of green.

Strong honeyed nose rife with white blossoms and a palate of crushed apple, white plum, and cantaloupe melon flavours. Will continue to develop through 2020.

A first for the noble grape of Barolo and Barbaresco to be cultivated in the coolest of cool-climate provinces. Pale ruby colour.

Sweet top notes of candied cherries and stewed plums followed by a nutty-oxidative bite like sherry. Still has a way to go. Best in 3 to 5 years. × APRIL 2018 21

A SPARK OF

by Michael Pinkus

I WOULD DEFINITELY CLASSIFY MYSELF AS A SPANISH WINE DRINKER. Sure, I drink wines from all over the

world, but Spain is special to me. The value-to-quality ratio is one of the best in the world and they make wine to suit any palate. Although not well known, the grape varieties Spanish winemakers use still seem to spark the interest of wine drinkers: Grenacha (Grenache), Tempranillo and Monastrell (Mourvedre) lead the charge.

But wait, I’m not talking about red wines this time, I’m talking about white wines. Here, many of the things I said above are also true, except that I would not classify myself as a Spanish white drinker. In fact, I rarely reach for a bottle of Spanish white when given the option.

Even though the value-to-quality ratio remains high, Spain is not the first place my mind wanders when thinking of a white wine. By the looks of things, many are in the same boat.

It could be because the varieties used are even more foreign to drinkers than the reds — grapes like Verdejo, Albarino and Godello, just to name a few. If you delve 22 @ QUENCH_MAG

INTEREST

into the realm of sparkling wine (Cava), the recognition level leaves the familiarity chart entirely, with Xarelo, Parellada and Macabeo (aka, Viura) not exactly household names.

The following bottles will not be recognizable to many of you, but in their own way, they deliver to white drinkers the thrill we Spanish red drinkers have known for years. Spain is a great place for making and discovering wines without breaking the bank. I’ll bet this year’s summer find is somewhere on this list — enjoy the experimentation and discovery.

CODORNÍU SELECCIÓN RAVENTÓS BRUT CAVA ($16.95)

One more for you sparkling fans, the Raventós is a special cuvée from Codorníu, a recognizable name in Spanish Cava: lemon-lime and baked apple all help give this wine nice depth and flavour.

CUNE RUEDA VERDEJO 2016 ($13.95)

There is a lovely dichotomy here on the tongue as the grapefruit zest plays with the pear skin and adds a note of mineral to the finish.

VETIVER VIURA 2014 ($14.95)

SEGURA VIUDA HEREDAD RESERVA BRUT CAVA ($32.95)

Kicking things off with a little bubbly; as in wine reviews, as in life: big acidity here with green apple, lemon drop and a long, persistent finish.

While the mainstay of Cava, Viura (aka, Macabeo) stands pretty well on its own when called upon: dried pear and pineapple seem to keep things rolling along in a juicy way that lends itself to quaffability.

BOHIGAS RESERVA BRUT CAVA ($18.95)

CORONA DE ARAGÓN GARNACHA BLANCA 2016 ($17.95)

Another from the bubbly department: dry, crisp and fresh with plenty of lemon and apple notes. A real bargain in the world of bubbles.

The white Garnacha grape makes a rare appearance here and it delivers on apple, pear and melon. Think Pinot Gris but with the addition of mineral and spice.

CASTELO DO MAR ALBARIÑO 2015 ($16)

Wildflower, honey and citrus top the bill here, followed by peach, apricot and a hint of pear. A perfect pairing with seafood and salad.

LUIS CAÑAS FERMENTADO EN BARRICA BLANCO 2015 ($18.95)

Two grapes go into this blend: the Malvasia here is borrowed from the Greeks while the Viura is indigenous. The wine is barrel fermented and aged for 4 months, which does not allow the oak to interfere with the fruit-forwardness of the wine, but still gives it some depth of character.

MARCELO MORALES, THE WINEMAKER AT CORONA DE ARAGÓN

PACO & LOLA ALBARIÑO 2016 ($18.95)

There is always something to be said for simplicity: this white delivers on lemon pith and floral flavours from beginning to end.

EL CAMINO RECTORAL DO UMIA ALBARIÑO 2015 ($15.95)

Pleasant floral, lemon, apple and grapefruit notes with good acidity. Lively and ready for summertime refreshment.

FOLLAS NOVAS ALBARIÑO 2015 ($19.95)

This wine follows in the path of some Vinho Verde, as in it leaves a little bit of Spritz behind, which adds liveliness and freshness. There’s even a little floral note to be found.

BARÓN DE LEY WHITE 2016 ($13.95)

ALBA VEGA ALBARIÑO 2015 ($16.95)

Fans of Vinho Verde might note the similarity in name and flavour profile of the Albariño grape to its Portuguese counterpart. There’s a richness of fruit here, lush mouthfeel and acidity that makes it a good pairing with many foods, including pork, chicken and fish.

Another of those Malvasia/Viura blends, this one speaks of white fruit-forwardness: pear, apple and tropical fruits along with honey and just a shake of white pepper.

VALTEA ALBARIÑO 2016 ($22.95)

Impressed by the white fruit/tropical fruit aspects of this white, with the pear and

apple mixing generously with the apricot, citrus and pineapple. There’s also a real pleasant mineral note on the finish.

EIDOSELA ALBARIÑO 2015 ($14.95)

Citrus runs right through this wine from beginning to end: the grapefruit and lime is a reminder of Sauvignon Blanc, with some melon and mineral on the finish.

MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES VERDEJO 2015 ($14.95)

The spice of white pepper makes an appearance here along with Bosc pear, grapefruit and pine. Ultimately, it’s the acidity that keeps everything in check. × APRIL 2018 23

LITTLE

TIDY

Think Portugal and wine, and chances are your mind will turn to Port, or, perhaps, to newly emerging table wines from the Douro and elsewhere. However, lesser known Lisboa is the country’s third-largest producing region by volume.

by Tim Pawsey

BOXES While still somewhat under the radar, its wines are on the rise. The ascent is driven in part by a burgeoning food and wine tourism. It mirrors the city of Lisbon’s arrival as one of the world’s hottest tourist destinations.

Steeped in history, the region around its namesake city and largest urban centre used to be known as Estramadura. The more celebrated wines here were made in the miniscule sub-region of Colares, with Ramisco (red) and Malvasia (white) vines planted in impossibly challenging conditions — Atlantic sand dunes. However, erosion and extensive real estate development have taken their toll and those wines are now even harder to find than before.

Although long overshadowed by Porto, Lisbon’s wine connections run deep. Of its major players during the last few centuries, one man in particular left a lasting and significant legacy.

Driving in from the airport, it’s likely you’ll arrive via the Praça Marques do Pombal, where a towering monument and lofty statue honours the man who most shaped modern-day Lisbon in the aftermath of the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami that devastated the city in 1755.

The well-travelled Marquis had lived and worked in London and Vienna as Portugal’s ambassador. Wine wise, it was he who laid the framework for the world’s first demarcated wine region, when he established the Companhia das Vinhas do Alto Douro in 1756. It regulated and protected the Port trade, and initiated a demarcated system of quality — one that predated the French equivalent by almost 200 years.

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VERA MOREIRA WINEMAKER FROM QUINTA DO GRADIL

APRIL 2018 25

SOCCER STAR GOALIE TURNED WINE PRODUCER ANDRÉ MANZ

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Even though modern-day Portugal can trace its winemaking traditions back a few thousand years, the country has really only made its mark on the wine world in the last few centuries. While the story of port and the country’s long association with the British (through the 1373 Treaty of Windsor) is well known, the more recent story of table wine, which now enjoys considerable success in regions like Dao, the Douro and Alantejo, is not so well known.

Portugal’s modern table wine industry found its beginnings under the dictatorship of prime minister António de Oliveira Salazar. The Salazar regime (1933–1974) established cooperatives on a grand scale. The emphasis was very much on quantity rather than quality, with demand driven by exports to former outposts of the once vast empire.

Only after 1975, when the regime was overthrown during the peaceful Carnation Revolution, did things really start to change, propelled further by Portugal’s 1986 entry into the European Union.

It’s that legacy of bulk wine that Lisboa is now striving to leave behind. As wineries continue to invest heavily in their vineyards and production facilities, the results are ever improving and occasionally impressive.

As Lisboa modernizes, various influences are shaping winery styles and philosophies — including the choice of grapes.

While many concentrate on indigenous varieties, others are planting international grapes, sometimes in order to appeal to major buyers overseas, but often because some find a combination of indigenous and modern varieties make for more interesting blends.

The bottom line is that in Lisboa you can discover the entire (and sometimes overwhelming) range of Portugal’s indigenous grapes, as well as some interesting international New World offerings. And everything in between.

IN SHORT, LISBOA IS ANYTHING BUT HOMOGENOUS. The

region is home to a broad spectrum of producers, from mega, modern co-ops to historic family quintas and boutique producers. However, one common theme persists: all are shifting their focus towards quality — often on a dramatic scale — and many have embraced the use of international varieties.

The shift away from volume to more focused, quality-driven wines is perhaps nowhere more apparent than at Quinta do Gradil, whose new owners commenced its transformation in 1999. The original estate and imposing quinta (awaiting restoration) date back to the late 15th century (actually owned for many years by the Marquis de Pombal and his descendants). The current owners are driven to modernization at every level and have heavily invested in new technology, as well as an impressive, top-level restaurant and wine bar.

Winemaking ranges from stand-alone indigenous varieties — such as an impressive, crisp and clean, mineral-toned Quinta do Gradil Viosinho 2015 (white) and a shiste-y, keenly focused Albariño and Arinto blend — to the Quinta do Gradil Reserva White 2015 blend of Chardonnay and Arinto, with complex layers of citrus and grapefruit, underpinned by mineral notes filled out with well-balanced French oak.

Aragonez and Castelao combine for Mula Velha 2016, an easy-drinking, approachable red blend, while the Quinta do Gradil Reserva reds include a plush and rounded 2015 hybrid blend of Touriga Naçional, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet, as well as an impressive, stand-alone, powerful, peppery and smoky, long-finishing Syrah 2015. The kicker — a not uncommon occurrence in Lisboa — turns out to be a very polished, leesy and toasty Méthode Traditionelle sparkler of Arinto (70 percent) and Chardonnay.

Quinta do Sanguinhal started its push for quality even earlier. This long-established, family-run winery started producing in the early 1900s and moved to bottled as opposed to bulk wines some 40 years ago. Sanguinhal is part of a company that comprises its namesake wine as well as the nearby estates of Quinta de Sao Francisco (where all the company’s wines are made and bottled) and Quinta das Cerejeiras, which has been exporting bottles since the mid 1850s. Notably, as a long-time distillery, Sanguinhal also offers an impressive range of spirits, including the regional specialty, aguardiente.

Through its various brands, Sanguinhal epitomises the region’s new and old styles, although the emphasis is more towards indigenous varieties, occasionally with modern blends or stand-alones.

Some of the best examples include a Quinta do Sanguinhal Chardonnay and Arinto blend, half fermented in French oak but aged in stainless steel, and the crisp, mineral-driven Quinta de San Francisco Obidos DOC 2016, from clay soils.

Sanguinhal spans a range of regional tastes, from the fruity and quaffable Cerejeiras Regional Tinto blend (of Castelau, Touriga and Aragonez) to the impressive Cerejeiras Grand Reserva, a blend of Castelao, Touriga and Aragonez that balances emphatic new oak with plushness and freshness underscored by a natural acidity.

Easy-sipping Sottal is one of Lisboa’s perennial award winners. It was conceived as an alternative to Vinho Verde, with the grapes picked early and the alcohol kept low (9.5% abv). The orange-toned, fruity but zippy blend of Moscatel, Arinto and Vital is ideal with local seafood, such as clams and shrimp. It also makes a perfect patio sipper.

Quinta do Sanguinhal is among the more successful at concentrating on indigenous grapes while employing international varieties where the taste profile can benefit. The family APRIL 2018 27

THE VINEYARDS AT CASA SANTOS LIMA

are also gracious hosts who run a popular visitor program, featuring home-style cuisine served under giant ancient presses beside the original lagars.

More than a few Lisboa wineries are very much labours of love, fuelled by a deeply engrained passion for the region and culture — as in the case of Quinta de Sao Sebastiao. This boutique winery, founded in a historic 18th-century Quinta on the site of a former monastery and one-time Roman village, combines the owner’s love of both wine and horses. Tastings are given overlooking a private dressage show ring, where Lipizzaners step in majestic, breathtaking tandem.

A small portfolio of premium offerings, Sao Sebastiao’s wines are also very much in synch, considered and well-crafted drops that blend international varieties with indigenous grapes as appropriate. However, the winery, whose stated aim is to preserve regional characteristics, works tirelessly with local growers to supply indigenous varieties as much as possible.

Arguably the most dogged example of reviving indigenous varieties is found at Manzwine, where former soccer star goalie André Manz inherited some 200 different strains of a variety when he purchased a vineyard in the ancient village of Cheleiros, not far from Lisbon. The village, it turned out, once enjoyed a significant reputation for grapes grown on its surrounding clay and limestone slopes. The long-forgotten variety is Jampal — defined by structure, minerality and bright acidity and a slightly saline hint — which Manz has elevated to cult status, as its the only known planting in the world.

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Maybe it flows from the owner’s world view (Manz is Brazilian by birth) but the wines and packaging are among the region’s more progressive and edgy. Nor do his efforts stop in the vineyard. Manz has also transformed the upper floor of the old building that houses the tasting room into a tiny perfect wine museum.

The choice between indigenous or international grapes can also be obvious. At Quinta do Rol (which also operates a hotel and equestrian centre) the emphasis is on sparkling wines with a deliberate (and very successful) nod to Champagne. Yet, although Pinot Noir and Chardonnay may be a given, the winery also focuses on white wines, such as regional varieties Arinto and Alvarinho, as well as Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc.

International grapes also enjoy a certain cachet in the culture of Lisbon’s wine bars, where it seems there’s plenty of interest in trying wines like Europe’s most westerly planting of Pinot Gris (from Lisboa), among others.

Some of the impetus for international-only wines flows from the larger producers’ desire to cosy up to export driving monopolies (particularly in Scandinavia and Canada), who don’t necessarily want to do the legwork to educate consumers about local varieties.

However, the Portuguese (who were arguably one of the world’s greatest seagoing and trading nations) remain a sensibly pragmatic bunch. With few exceptions, most winemakers understand the opportunity that judiciously using international varieties presents, without usurping the very valid and hardwon place of pride enjoyed by their own — and increasingly well-made — indigenous varieties. ×

QUINTA DAS CEREJEIRAS RESERVA 2011, DOC OBIDOS ($35)

A blend of Castelao, Touriga Naçional and Aragones produced by Sanguinhal. Forward notes of vibrant red and black fruits, cocoa, vanilla, leather and spice notes before a full-bodied but elegant palate with well-managed oak and well-integrated tannins. Still showing freshness and remarkable youth with purity of fruit and excellent length.

CASA SANTOS LIMA RESERVA 2013, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA ($20)

A long-running, predominantly export winery established in the early 19th century, undergoing extensive modernization since 1995 and making wines from most regions on a large scale. From older plantings of Touriga Naçional, Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Roriz and Syrah, fresh and lively entry of vibrant red and black berry notes before a structured mid palate defined by fresh acidity, cassis and spice notes, with Syrah showing black pepper and spice through a lengthy end.

DFJ GRAND ARTE ALICANTE BOUSCHET 2014, VR LISBOA ($30)

From a historic producer with its own cooperage and a dramatic late 19th-century building. Intense, deep garnet in glass, forward dark berry notes. Mediumto full-bodied palate of black cherry and damson is quite rounded with good structure and fresh acidity through a lengthy, spicy finish.

MANZWINE DONA FATIMA JAMPAL 2015, VR LISBOA ($45)

The only known planting of this variety worldwide.

Lifted mineral and citrus before a slightly saline palate of medium intensity with excellent acidity, remarkable minerality and shiste notes with juicy acidity. 4 to 5 months in oak adds body and texture. Age-worthy.

QUINTA DO GRADIL RESERVA WHITE 2015, VR LISBOA ($18)

A blend of Chardonnay and Arinto sports appealing tropical and citrus notes before complex layers of grapefruit and citrus with waxy undertones wrapped in bright acidity with excellent mouthfeel and lengthy finish.

QUINTA DE SANT’ANA PINOT NOIR 2015, VR LISBOA ($25)

From a delightful Quinta and small farm boutique hotel in Mafra, just 12 kilometres from the Atlantic, with cool mornings and hot afternoons. Made from grapes from

4 contrasting vineyards. Hand-picked and whole-bunch fermented in stainless steel before 10 months in 4-yearold barrels. Lively wild cherry and forest floor notes up front with contrasting sweet and savoury notes on a light- to medium-bodied palate defined by good acidity, freshness and elegance.

QUINTA DO ROL EXTRA BRUT GRANDE RESERVA 2012, VR LISBOA ($40)

Traditional method made with 100% Chardonnay. Fine bubbles and a persistent mousse with lifted brioche and toast before a leesy palate. Complex and layered with mouth-filling, creamy texture and a formidable, structured finish.

QUINTA DE SÃO SEBASTIÃO RESERVA 2014, VR LISBOA ($60)

A blend of Merlot, Touriga Naçional and Syrah, non-irrigated and hand-harvested. Pretty garnet in the glass with fresh red berry, vanilla and spice notes before a full-bodied, supple and elegant palate with a markedly savoury and mineral core, approachable tannins and lingering toasty notes.

VILLA OEIRAS CARCAVELOS 1997, CARCAVELOS DOC ($60)

Fortified sweet wine from a tiny remaining storied portion of vineyard in greater Lisbon near Cascais, barely 1,000 metres from the ocean, with windy mornings, sunny days and night-time humidity. From clay and limestone soils. Several varieties fortified by spirit from Lourinha. Caramel and nutty notes, very Oloroso-like with raisin flavours and seamless integration of alcohol, fruit and acidity with a slightly savoury streak. Barrel sample due now for bottling.

VALE ZIAS SYRAH 2013, VR LISBOA ($30)

Small family-owned former bulk producer now focused on bottled wines and small hospitality tourism. Well-defined varietal aromas of meaty, gamey notes and fresh, crushed berries, before a slightly chalky palate with vibrant dark cherry notes, fresh fruit flavours and lingering peppery notes.

SÃO MAMEDE DA VENTOSA DON MAMEDE RED 2016, VR LISBOA ($15)

Eco-conscious co-op in transition to modern techniques. Blend of Castelao, Syrah and Aragonez.

Upfront crushed red berries, medium-bodied cherry and a high-acid palate with some earthy notes and firm tannins.

APRIL 2018 29

CLOSE TO

HOME

by Joanne Will

I remember being a young girl and sitting on my grandmother’s kitchen counter in Saskatchewan, watching while she sieved the pips from chokecherries to make deep purple jelly, or canned pretty, pink crabapples.

At the time, I didn’t realize it, but she was doing much more than making delicious food: she was giving me a taste for ingredients that were not only locally grown, but also indigenous to that region.

It has taken me a long time to appreciate the full value of what my grandmother was doing, and to begin to understand the importance, both ecologically and culturally, of foods that are native to where I live.

While there is academic and philosophical debate over the precise definition, in general a native plant is one that existed in an area prior to European settlement.

“In North America that would be, for the most part, plants that evolved here following glaciation — in areas that were glaciated. Those plants have evolved over thousands of years in some kind of relationship with the environment. So, it tends to mean that the plants are adapted to the conditions here and don’t necessarily need the inputs — the watering, fertilizing, et cetera, that non-native plants that have been introduced to the garden might require,” says Toronto writer, author, and gardening and native plant expert Lorraine Johnson.

Another big benefit of native plants, says Johnson, is that they support local wildlife — birds, butterflies and other pollinating insects. “Native plants create really meaningful, rich 30 @ QUENCH_MAG

habitat for those creatures, in a way that plants that have not evolved over thousands of years in those relationships just don’t tend to provide.”

People are often surprised by the edibility of many native plants. While they do grow in the wild, they can — and as Johnson emphasizes, should — also be cultivated.

“I think there’s a bit of a forager in all of us, but our natural areas can’t support that kind of foraging activity. So, what we can do is grow edible native plants in our yards, in our gardens. That will create all of the environmental benefits we’ve talked about — in terms of reduced water use, reduced fertilizers, no pesticides, the creation of wildlife habitats — plus the really significant added benefit of creating food for humans as well.”

Edible native plants can offer many unique and unusual flavours. Ingredients can be cultivated at home that simply cannot be purchased anywhere else.

“Just an example: every spring, at a dinner party, I go in the backyard and get flowers from my redbud tree. The redbud is one of the first trees to flower in the eastern part of Canada and the

northeastern US, providing nectar for the early pollinators. It has these gorgeous pink flowers that cover the branches, and they’re edible. I put them on salads. They’re an amazing burst of flavour — this honey and green, just delicious. And people are amazed, they say ‘I’ve never seen this, what is it?’ Well, it’s the flower of a native tree!” says Johnson.

Many of us have tried, or have at least heard about, edible native plants such as Saskatoon berries or fiddlehead ferns. But there are many others.

THE LARGEST EDIBLE NATIVE FRUIT IN CANADA IS FROM THE PAWPAW TREE, NATIVE TO SOUTHWESTERN ONTARIO. The fruit is about the size of, and looks like, a small mango.

It tastes like a combination of banana and pineapple. To eat a pawpaw, you cut it in half, remove the two or three big seeds and scoop out the smooth custard from the skin with a spoon.

“We’ve got three pawpaw trees in the backyard producing fruit. And people are just amazed to know that this is a native tree. How incredible is that? You cannot buy them. Maybe every

now and again, for a week in October, some farmers’ markets have a forager that might have some pawspaws, but other than that, you’ve got to grow them,” says Johnson.

“These are amazing plants, and food. Let’s just hope that people get a lot more interested in growing them, perhaps even farming them. Why aren’t we farming pawpaws? The idea of having environmental farms — pawpaw is one of the only known larval host plants for the zebra swallowtail butterfly, a butterfly that’s rare. So, if we were growing or farming pawpaws, we’d also be farming zebra swallowtail butterflies.”

Johnson points out that growing native plants also asserts a very local connection to the place where you live, and what makes it unique and special. Native plants have an identity that can be learned about, understood and engaged with.

To connect with native ingredients, chef David Wolfman, a member of the Xaxli’p First Nation in BC, culinary arts professor at Toronto’s George Brown College and host of Cooking with the Wolfman TV program, says we need to connect to the stories behind our food.

“For example, if I tell you that you can cook with spruce tips, you might say, ‘why would I want to cook with spruce tips? I’m trying to get rid of them, trying to rake them out of my yard!’ But if I start telling you, ‘it was used as a medicine, it’s got sort of a flowery taste, use it as a hint to lift some flavours out of some meats,’ you might say, ‘hey, let me try that,’ because it’s a back story that you’re picking up and sharing in. All of a sudden, it stimulates you and you try it once — and once you try it, once, etc, etc!” says Wolfman.

He also talks about sea asparagus, wild salmon, moose and many other foods indigenous to this continent that also have long traditions and deep roots in Aboriginal culture. He co-wrote Cooking with the Wolfman: Indigenous Fusion, which was named Gourmand International’s 2017 best English-language cookbook in Canada, with his wife and business partner, Marlene Finn, a member of Ontario’s Métis Nation.

Most of the recipes in their book use ingredients that are indigenous to North America, such as Big Buffalo Pot Roast with Cranberry and Pear Brown Sauce; Saskatoon berry drizzle; Back to the Land Salad, with wild grapes, strawberries, nuts, sorrel and dressing made from mashed avocados and maple syrup; Nish Kebobs, skewers of deer meat and a glaze made from birch syrup; and a fiddlehead side dish.

“Marlene and I say we’re reclaiming our heritage, one bite at a time.” × APRIL 2018 31

THEY SAY PÁLINKÁS JÓ REGGELT!

by Tod Stewart

It’s a “chicken or the egg” situation for imbibers: what came first, the nation or the national drink? Okay, speaking accurately, you can’t technically have a national anything without a nation, but it’s not overly whimsical to envision early colonists around the world banding together to tend to their stills, kettles or barrels long before the concept of aggregating together as a unified collective began to gel.

Today, pretty much every nation on the planet has a particular beverage it embraces as its “national” tipple. Canadians have been liquefying rye into the eponymous spirit (whether it actually has rye in it or not) since (probably) the 1700s. Okay, I can already hear the chorus of, “The Caesar is Canada’s national drink.” I hear you but I’m going to argue that a national drink shouldn’t be a cocktail; it should be something born of the land itself. Take it or leave it.

France and Italy took to wine. Poland and Russia transformed potatoes and grains respectively into vodka. The Japanese consumed rice in both solid and liquid forms (as did the Chinese). The Brits developed a taste for vodka flavoured heavily with juniper (gin). Neighbouring Ireland 32 @ QUENCH_MAG

and Scotland indulged in uisge beatha, aka, whisk(e)y. (Though a compelling case could no doubt be made by the Irish that beer — specifically, Guinness — is their country’s national drink.) And those in the Caribbean islands discovered that the sweet residue from sugar production (molasses) could be distilled into something that in some ways was even sweeter (rum).

Many of these national libations have become international sensations. Others remained — and remain — confined, more or less, to their country of origin. Or to ethnic pockets outside their homeland.

Think German schnapps, Chinese baijiu, Portuguese aguardiente, Indian feni, and, my focus here, Hungarian pálinka, a spirit that is not only strong but also strongly woven into the country’s cultural mosaic.

Pálinka is basically a fruit spirit, or eau-de-vie. But telling a Hungarian that pálinka is “just a fruit spirit” is tantamount to telling an Irishman that Guinness is “just beer,” of a Frenchman that cognac is “just a brandy.”

Paul Angyal of Toronto’s Angyal Agency, which represents the bulk of the pálinkas brought into Ontario, describes the degree to which pálinka is stitched into the Hungarian social fabric. “It is a big part of it, mostly for historical reasons,” he assured me.

“The first mention of it is from the 14th century, when the Hungarian king and queen were given some of it to cure their arthritis and digestion problems.

They found it so beneficial, they called it eau-de-vie since both were of French royal ancestry. Obviously, the word of the royals helped spread its popularity, and by the 18th century, it was a mainstay at the dinner table.”

Angyal notes that historical Hungary was about three times its current size up until the end of the First World War, encompassing large chunks of what today is Slovakia, Croatia, Romania, Ukraine and even Austria, and that the consumption of pálinka was omnipresent throughout this vast landscape.

AGÁRDI MIRACULUM KAJSZIBARACK PÁLINKA ($58)

This pure apricot palinka offers intense dried apricot aromas with hints of clover honey, cardamom, and fresh almond skin. Surprisingly soft and gentle for a 40% ABV spirit — though some heat does kick in on the finish. Loads of dried fruit flavours with a delicate spiciness.

SZICSEK AGED SOUR CHERRY PALINKA ($60)

Similar in many ways to the more common kirsch, this palinka has an earthier side that weaves its way between layers of dried, candied fruit (maraschino cherry?) and suggestions of cedar/sandalwood. Earthy, spicy, and warm on the palate with distinct black cherry/cherry pit flavours and a long, elegant finish.

PANYOLAI RUBINMEGGY ÁGYAS PÁLINKA ($52)

“Ágyas (bedded) is a pálinka aged for at least three months together with fruit. The fruit is the same kind used to obtain the fermentable distillate liquid, but it is not mashed and is placed at the bottom of the fermenting container/tank. To 100 litres of palinka at least 10 kilograms of ripe fruit needs to be added,” Angyal tells me. This is a very unique libation that stylistically hovers somewhere in between a spirit and a liqueur. Loads of black cherry and raspberry jump out of the glass, sailing along on a wave of cinnamon, Black Forest cake, dark chocolate and (interestingly) grape jelly. A brisk tartness hits the palate first, followed up by some intense herbal sweet/sour/bitter notes somewhat reminiscent of cherry cough syrup. This was the most polarizing of the three tasted: I liked it. Other on the panel did not. In any case, very distinct and different.

APRIL 2018 33

The pálinka that soothed the king and queen was likely made from distilled wine infused with herbs, and its main use was medicinal rather than recreational. The drink’s status began to change as both the quality of the raw material and the distilling equipment used in production steadily improved.

The popularity of the spirit grew over the course of time. What also grew was the government’s thirst for tax revenues.

A pálinka tax was introduced in the mid1800s, and crackdowns on home distilling lead to further enhancements to quali-

sively from fruit (excluding concentrates and dried fruit) that has been grown, distilled and bottled in Hungary with an ABV of at least 37.5 percent.

High-quality orchard fruits — apricots, cherries and plums — are the most popular raw materials for production (though berries, apples and even quince are occasionally used). Stones are removed, thereby exposing the flesh of the fruit, while fruits without stones are mashed. The fruit is then left to ferment without the addition of sugar over a span of — ideally — 10 to 12 days.

“HE WHO DRINKS PÁLINKA ENDS UP IN THE GRAVEYARD. HE WHO DOESN’T ENDS UP THERE, TOO, ONLY FASTER.” OLD MAGYAR MAXIM

ty, as did further technical refinements, including the use of continuous column stills. Laws or no laws, illicit pálinka production proceeded prodigiously (sorry).

Forward way ahead to 2010 and you’ll see something happened in Hungary that you’ll likely never see again: a government dissolving its own monopoly. “The state allows home distillation of up to 82 litres per year tax exempt for private consumption only,” Angyal explains. “The equipment used has to be acquired from certified dealers and is subject to regular inspection.” Whether this really was a move to give the national spirit back to the people or simply a shrewd political move by the government of the time is best left to the reader’s own discretion.

Today’s commercial pálinka (and a fair amount of the home brew) is a far cry from some of the dubious distillates from days of yore. Officially recognized by the European Union as a product unique to Hungary (referred to as Hungaricum), the quality is guarded by the “pálinka law” of 2008. It decrees that in order to be called pálinka, a spirit must be fermented exclu34 @ QUENCH_MAG

The fermented fruit mash is then distilled using either the pot-still (or kisüsti) batch method or a continuous column still. No matter which method is used, care is taken to reserve the mid-run distillate (aka, the heart), which is the source of the purest spirit.

Once distillation is complete, the spirit rests in tank for three months to give the various components a chance to “marry” and develop a harmonious character. However, the distiller does have the option of extended aging. “‘Aged pálinka matures in oak barrels for six months,” Angyal notes, adding that when a bottle is labelled “old,” it will have been barrel-aged for three years. “There are distinct taste differences,” he affirms, “especially with plum and apple varieties; both tend to mature very well, developing more complexity than the younger versions.” Érlelt on the label denotes “aged,” while Ó indicates “old.”

As with practically any libation, there are ways to maximize pleasure when consuming. Of course, before you get into the “how,” you first have to deal with the “when.”

There’s a Hungarian saying, Pálinkás Jó Reggelt!, that loosely translates to “Wake up with pálinka!” Though there may be some upsides to knocking back a glass before (or as) breakfast, in the long run it’s probably safer to stick to coffee.

“Pálinka should be consumed as either as an apéritif, or after meals at a temperature of around 18 to 20˚C and only very slightly chilled,” Angyal suggests.

“The recommended serving glass is tulip-shaped to allow the aromas to develop and be channelled out of the glass.”

When tasting, Angyal recommends taking a small sip and rolling it around in your mouth for a few seconds before swallowing. “Once this ‘warmup’ is completed, the rest can be drunk all at once,” he adds, noting that the recommended serving volume is around two ounces.

Angyal also points out what he refers to as “a peculiar popular custom” surrounding the consumption of pálinka: the “dry test.”

“When the glass is empty, hold it in your hand for four to five minutes; the warmth of your hand will release intense, pleasant aromas. In the order of evaporation, first the etheric head notes, followed by the more fruity, citric heart notes and finally the fruity base notes. This is the completion of the pleasures offered by this unique experience.”

The only problem when it comes to enjoying the pálinka experience in Canada is finding the stuff. Angyal’s “pálinka presence” in Ontario has gone something like this: “In 2010, there were none. In 2011, there was one. The next year another was added, then again another and another, but none at the same time.

There was no continuity in availability, although the demand was there — an order came in, sold out and the next order came only months after.”

But the pálinka landscape is widening in the province, largely due to a (relatively) new online initiative launched by the provincial liquor board.

“The opening of the e-Commerce channel was a godsend,” Angyal enthuses.

“Thanks to it, there are now 22 pálinka varieties available in Ontario from our suppliers for purchase online with hopefully more to come.”

Pálinkás Jó Reggelt!, indeed. ×

NOTHING

by Tara Luxmore

TO SHAKE AT

Showing up early to the sherry seminar and tasting at the San Antonio Cocktail Conference — a five-day, booze-infused festival for bar industry professionals and cocktail lovers — was a good move because it was standing-room only by the time we got started.

“Sherry is having a little bit of a renaissance among super wine and cocktail geeks, although it’s still very niche,” says Christine Sismondo, a drinks writer and author of America Walks into a Bar. But, “those who love it, live by it.” Houston Eaves, beverage director at the James Beard-nominated Esquire Tavern in San Antonio, echoes this sentiment. “There’s lots of cool cocktail bars that have sherry on their menu, but it will continue to be niche,” says Eaves. “Thoughtful people who like eating and drinking are realizing how special, versatile and affordable sherry is.”

Sherry is one of the first wines to have a Designation of Origin dating back to 1483. It can only be made in the southwestern corner of Spain known as the sherry triangle. This region is situated on the Atlantic Ocean just a short, narrow passage away from Morocco, and is home to a busy shipping port that helped send these wines around the world. Sherry is made from three different grape varietals — Palomino, Muscat and Pedro Ximénez — grown in chalky, limestone-rich soil. Most styles are crafted with just one varietal and then blended with older casks to achieve consistency in flavour.

PHOTO: KODY MELTON

APRIL 2018 35

EN RAMA OLD FASHIONED

Created by Houston Eaves at The Esquire, San Antonio.

2 oz Fino en Rama Sherry

1/4 oz Tempus Fugit Creme de Banana

1 dash Bittermens Elemakule Tiki Bitters Lemon peel Build in glass on large format ice.

Stir until well chilled. Express lemon oil over top and discard.

LONDON CALLING

By Nick Kennedy at Toronto’s Civil Liberties.

1 3/4 oz Beefeater 1 oz lemon juice 3/4 oz sugar syrup (1:1) 3/4 Tio Pepe Fino Sherry 4 dashes Orange bitter

Combine all the ingredients in a shaker with some ice. Shake till well chilled. Strain through fine mesh and garnish with the zest of grapefruit.

“IF A RECIPE CALLS FOR TWO OUNCES OF GIN, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE ONE OUNCE OF GIN FOR FINO SHERRY AND STILL HAVE AGREEABLE RESULTS.” NICK KENNEDY

Back in the sherry seminar, John Garrett, a Texas-based importer with the Victory Wine Group, led us through a tasting of the fortified wine, from bright, acidic finos, made from Palomino grapes and aged under a blanket of flor, to nutty, complex amontillados, also made with Palomino but then oxidized in the barrel, to a rich, raisin-y Pedro Ximénez made with PX grapes that have been dried under the sun. The complexity of flavours, from savoury and bitter to floral and earthy, had me at first sip. It’s the diversity in flavours that really appeals to bartenders looking to add depth to their cocktails.

According to Garrett, it’s the cocktail community that’s really behind sherry. It all started around 2009 when bartenders began experimenting with sherry-laced pre-Prohibition cocktail recipes.

36 @ QUENCH_MAG

“THOUGHTFUL PEOPLE WHO LIKE EATING AND DRINKING ARE REALIZING HOW SPECIAL, VERSATILE AND AFFORDABLE SHERRY IS.” HOUSTON EAVES

The simple Sherry Cobbler, a mix of sherry, sugar and citrus poured over crushed ice, is one of those vintage cocktails that really caught on. The Esquire Tavern serves a tiki-inspired Cobbler with a house-made piña colada-inspired painkiller marmalade and a blend of five different sherries. “The tropical accent really intensifies the notes of the sherry,” says Eaves.

Moderating alcohol levels in his concoctions is important to Eaves. So, during the summer he’ll whip up a Monty Collins, a refreshing tipple with bright citrus notes, but will skip the spirits to lower the proof. At the Esquire, Eaves serves it with a choice of vodka, bourbon, whiskey or rum, which, he adds, “gives the cocktail a spirit backbone while still allowing sherry to be a strong player.”

Sherry ranges between 15 to 22 percent alcohol, which fits in well with a wider move towards “session drinking,” choosing to drink multiple lower-alcohol drinks over a period of time. “The low-alcohol trend is really good for sherry,” says Sismondo. “Cocktails like the Bamboo and Adonis are clean, neat and martini-ish but the overall alcohol content of the drink is 16 percent versus 30 or 32 percent when made with a spirit.” Nick Kennedy, owner and senior executive barback at Toronto’s Civil Liberties agrees: “For somebody who’s had one too many whiskey sours, I’ll sell them on this crazy sherry fino sour without telling them that the ABV is less than a third.” This way, he says, “they can really enjoy the night without noticing that they’ve had the brakes put on.”

If you still want the taste of a spirit in your cocktail, Kennedy notes that sherry works well as a split base. For example, he explains that, “if a recipe calls for two ounces of gin, you can substitute one ounce of gin for fino sherry and still have agreeable results.”

To start experimenting with sherry cocktails, follow these basic rules that Kennedy uses to train new bartenders and shares with students in the cocktail classes held at his bar.

For clear spirits and citrus cocktails, go with drier sherries like fino and manzanilla, or sometimes amontillado. “The world’s driest wine is fino sherry,” explains Kennedy, “it brings brightness and minerality, as well as tartaric acid, which can really help punch up cocktails.” Kennedy’s London Calling is a great example of this.

On the darker sherry spectrum, amontillado, oloroso and Pedro Ximénez work well with aged spirits or stirred-down cocktails. “If you’re looking to add a nuttiness or richness to a winter sour, or a stirred cocktail, you get into the amontillados and olorossos,” says Kennedy. “Or, for a sweet candy fig and intense, rich raisin character, Pedro Ximénez really brings depth or balance to a cocktail.”

Sherry’s place at the bar seems to have a bright future thanks to the advocates in the cocktail scene. But, it’s still exquisite straight up. As Sismondo concludes, “to me, the perfect drink before dinner is a glass of chilled fino.” × APRIL 2018 37

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SAUCE

by Duncan Holmes

IT! There may be dissenters — hearty carnivores who like to scarf their meat naked and rare — but I’m pretty sure that most of us who still include meat in our diets will admit that a meal can always be made much more exciting when it’s napped or swamped with a great sauce. It’s simply the way we eat.

The taste of meat satisfyingly stays, but the real turn-on at the centre of the plate is the sauce that makes meat sing!

I’m dating myself, but what was the Sunday slice of prime rib, or leg of lamb, without a ladle-load of gravy? Cobbled together with drippings from the pan, flour and splashes and dashes of everything else that made it a totally delicious protein complement, great gravy was the luscious lubricant that really made meaty meals.

In a warm and friendly maternal way, the culinary community uses the word “mother” when referring to five classic sauces. Any of them do well as they are, but with some extras, they can become an almost infinite number of other tastes.

Think of the possibilities that spring from good old béchamel; the potential of velouté and its close relative, espagnole. What would a Benny be without Hollandaise, or a pizza or pasta, without an occasional tomate?

Sauces have evolved in national and regional ways into hundreds — or likely thousands — of tastes and textures. You have your favourites, and can find more in recipe books or online.

Chimichurri is a scary name for a simple mix of parsley, oregano, garlic, oil and vinegar. Voila! And gremolata? Again, parsley, crushed together with lemon zest and garlic. Surely nothing is simpler, but as always is with the best sauces and marinades, the whole is much more than the sum of its simple parts. What clever person decided to make a happy marriage of parsley, lemon and garlic? I only know that, in my greenhouse, versatile parsley gets the best of loving care year-round, so it’s always ready for anything: in a sauce or as a sprig to enhance presentation.

GREMOLATA

A favourite with the Simply Recipes people.

They say: “Parsley, garlic and lemon zest — the most basic of ingredients; yet together, they are cymbals in the food orchestra.

Noisy alone, but perfect to accentuate a lamb stew or veal osso buco. Just as you are easing into a savoury, meaty bite, the slightly bitter tang of the gremolata will wake up your senses. A little sprinkle of gremolata is all that you need to take a dish from good to great. Scatter it over vegetables, lamb, pork, chicken or veal. Or even over some pasta with butter and parmesan.”

2 tbsp parsley leaves, minced 1 tbsp lemon zest, freshly grated 2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced (about 2 tsp)

Super easy: toss together all the ingredients in a small bowl.

APRIL 2018 39

CHIMICHURRI

I give credit to Simply Recipes for this one.

Similar to pesto, this sauce originated in Argentina, and pairs well with seafood, beef and other meats.

1 cup firmly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley 3-4 garlic cloves 2 tbsp fresh oregano leaves (can substitute 2 tsp dried oregano) 1/3 cup olive oil 2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp sea salt 1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

Finely chop the parsley, fresh oregano and garlic (or pulse several times in a food processor). Place in a small bowl then stir in the remaining ingredients. Adjust the seasonings to taste. Serve immediately or refrigerate. If chilled, return to room temperature before serving. Covered and refrigerated, it will keep for 1 to 2 days.

CAREN’S 15-MINUTE GORGONZOLA PASTA SERVES 4 TO 6

Caren McSherry, main purveyor at Vancouver’s splendid Gourmet Warehouse, gives us this very quick and easy one-pot sauce that will knock you over. How can anything that takes just 15 minutes to prepare taste so good? Caren prefers artisan or dried pasta — allowing your sauce to really cling.

1 1 1 250 500

tbsp unsalted butter shallot, minced cup chicken or vegetable stock ml Italian Gorgonzola cheese g pasta, any shape (cooked to desire)

GARNISH

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated 1/3 cup toasted pine nuts 1/3 cup parsley, finely chopped

1. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the shallot and sauté until soft. Add the stock and increase the heat to a boil.

2. Boil the stock until it is reduced to about a 1/2 cup. Add the Gorgonzola cheese and turn the heat down to a simmer.

Whisk until smooth and creamy.

3. Pour the sauce over cooked pasta, garnish with Parmesan, pine nuts and parsley.

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BÉCHAMEL

I sometimes wonder how many times I’ve made this so-adaptable white sauce — to pour over my cauliflower, add to pasta, to resurrect leftovers of all kinds. I always grate in lots of nutmeg. Warm the milk before you start.

KEG TERIYAKI MARINADE

Chef friend Kurt Landert developed the Keg’s teriyaki marinade recipe 40 years ago, and now, as a Keg owner, his kitchen team still uses the same recipe to give the restaurant’s “teris” their distinctive tenderness and taste.

2 tbsp unsalted butter

2 tbsp flour 1 1/2 cups warmed milk Salt White pepper Nutmeg, freshly grated Heavy cream (optional)

1. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan.

Stir in the flour and cook, stirring over low heat for 2 to 5 minutes.

2. Pour in all of the warmed milk, whisking constantly to blend and smooth the mixture. Increase the heat and continue whisking as the sauce comes to a boil.

Season with a little salt.

3. Reduce the heat to very low, and simmer for about 40 minutes, stirring now and then to prevent sticking. When the sauce reaches the desired consistency, add white pepper and nutmeg.

4. Taste for seasoning, then whisk again until the sauce is perfectly smooth. For a richer taste, add a bit of cream.

1. Place the soy sauce, brown sugar, sherry and vegetable oil into a saucepan.

Pulse the green onion, garlic and ginger together in a food processor.

2. Add the ground ingredients to the saucepan, mix, bring to a boil and then simmer for half an hour.

3. Cool and refrigerate overnight.

Strain and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Marinate steaks in this sauce for 4 hours before broiling.

SALSA RAJAS

I’ve had this forever, and make it whenever I crave a sauce with a clean, warm taste.

4

1

1

1/2

1/2

1

Small onion, chopped Garlic clove, chopped green chilies, seeded large can tomato sauce tbsp chili powder tbsp cumin tbsp oregano Salt and pepper Water or chicken stock tbsp cornstarch

1. Sauté the onion and garlic in a saucepan until the onion becomes transparent.

Blend the onion, garlic and green chilies, and return this mixture to the saucepan.

2. Add the tomato sauce and spices.

Simmer for about 10 minutes. Fill the tomato sauce can with water or chicken stock and add the cornstarch.

3. Pour into the saucepan and simmer a few minutes longer before serving.

1 1 1/4 1 1 1 1

cup soy sauce tbsp brown sugar cup cooking sherry tsp vegetable oil green onion tbsp garlic, minced tbsp fresh ginger, minced

BÉARNAISE

This rich — note the four egg yolks — sauce works as a spread for a ripped-off chunk of baguette, hot from the oven.

1/2 3 8 1 1/4 4 250

cup white vinegar shallots, chopped whole black peppercorns bay leaf tsp tarragon leaves egg yolks g butter

1. Combine the first five ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the mixture is reduced by half.

Strain and reserve the liquid.

2. Cut the butter into small cubes. Place the egg yolks in the top half of a double boiler and gradually stir in the reserved liquid until combined. Place the pot over barely simmering water that is neither touching the bottom of the pan nor boiling (do not let it boil).

3. Slowly whisk in the butter a cube at a time. Once all of the butter has been added, the mixture should have thickened. At this point, the sauce can be poured into a serving jug or directly onto the food and served.

BLACK BEAN AND GARLIC SAUCE

There are few flavours more distinctive than that of black beans. Their musty smell repulses many — a leftover from an old and disused cellar, or worse! But mash them up, add garlic and tumble them in sauce with beef, they’re marvellous.

1/4 cup black beans

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp sugar

1 tsp soy sauce

1 tsp wine Peanut oil

2 tbsp garlic, minced

1 cup chicken (or vegetable) broth

1 tsp cornstarch 1. Rise the black beans under cold water.

Drain and dry them, then place in a bowl and mash with a wooden spoon or cut finely with a chopping knife.

2. Sprinkle with salt, sugar, soy sauce and wine. Set aside.

3. Heat a wok on high, then add peanut oil and stir-fry garlic for 5 seconds. Add the bean mixture, and stir-fry for 1 minute before adding broth or water.

4. Cook for 3 minutes then thicken with the cornstarch. Serve hot.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE

A mixture that’s more edgy than whipped, heavy cream, and a bit richer than sour cream. But regardless as to how you “read” its taste, crème fraîche is very versatile, and a delicious addition to apple pie, and just the right topping for rich chocolate and/or fresh fruit desserts. Perfect for seasonal berries seasoned overnight in some sugar and an ounce or two of your favourite liqueur. For your initial adventure, you may wish to try just 1/2 cup of whipping cream and the same of sour cream. It will keep in the fridge for a week or so, but if you only make a small quantity, there won’t be any left to worry about!

1 part whipping cream 1 part sour cream

Whisk the creams together in a bowl.

Pour the mixture into a jar, cover with a lid and let stand in a warm place for 12 hours. Stir and refrigerate for 24 hours before serving. × APRIL 2018 41

BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON

DIET FOR A HEALTHIER AND KINDER PLANET

The vegan movement has picked up speed as more people pursue a plant-based diet. Not only is veganism considered a healthier lifestyle choice, many are motivated by ethical and environmental concerns.

A well-balanced vegan diet is high in dietary fibre, folic acid and magnesium, as well as vitamins C, E and more. It is believed to boost the immune system’s ability to combat disease and has been known to trim the waistline and reduce inflammation, blood sugar and LDL cholesterol (which I refer to as the Lousy cholesterol; HDL being the Healthy cholesterol).

Following a vegan diet means avoiding animal foods and products, including dairy, eggs and honey. As well, many packaged foods are off-limits because they contain animal products such as whey, casein, lactose, albumen, gelatin, carmine and more.

What vegans do eat are minimally processed foods such as vegetables, leafy greens, fruits, tofu, tempeh, seitan, legumes, whole grains, nuts and nut butters, seeds, plant and nut milks, spirulina, chlorella, and sprouted and fermented plant foods. It’s also recommended that vegans take vitamin and mineral supplements.

The best course of action when deciding to go vegan is to consult your doctor or a nutritionist, be sure to get some type of physical activity every day and donate your leather goods to charity. Be careful with wine, beer and spirits, as some are filtered through animal products. A site like barnivore.com can offer animal-free alternatives.

CHIA NECTARINE BANANA SMOOTHIE

Chia seeds are loaded with antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids. It’s important to note that maple and agave syrups are plant-based vegan sweeteners, unlike honey. Honey is off-limits because veganism excludes products that exploit living creatures, including bees who create honey as an energy-source for themselves, not humans.

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ripe nectarines or peaches, pitted and chopped tbsp chia seeds cup rolled oats peeled, frozen banana cup freshly squeezed orange juice cup almond milk Maple or agave syrup, to taste

In a medium bowl, mix ingredients. Set aside for 10 minutes to soften oats and seeds. Put all ingredients into blender and blend until smooth. Add maple or agave syrup to sweeten.

42 @ QUENCH_MAG

VEGAN BURGERS MAKES 4 BURGERS

If, like me, you love a burger every now and then, your best bet is to make a vegan burger from scratch, rather than buying the packaged, frozen variety. This way, you know exactly what’s in your burger. Here, black beans give texture and the herbs add great flavour. Vegan burgers can be tricky, sometimes too wet, sometimes too dry. Use your judgment by adding more flour or a bit of ketchup, if needed. Change up the ingredients list to other healthful items like ground walnuts, sautéed mushrooms, corn, cooked brown rice, sunflower seeds or shredded carrots. And, yes, most mustards and ketchups are vegan — if in doubt, view the condiments list at peta.org.

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cup onion, chopped clove garlic, minced can black beans, drained and patted dry slices whole-grain bread tbsp fresh parsley tsp fresh thyme leaves tsp ground cumin tsp ground coriander tsp sweet paprika Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste tbsp whole wheat flour tbsp olive oil Leafy greens and sliced tomato Whole wheat hamburger buns Mustard and ketchup

1. In a small skillet, sauté onion until softened. Add garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Set aside.

2. In a food processor, blend beans, bread, parsley, thyme, cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, pepper and flour until mixed but chunky. Stir in garlic mixture. On a flour-dusted cutting board, shape the mixture into 4 patties. Place in fridge to chill 30 minutes.

3. In a large skillet, over medium heat, cook patties in hot oil for 5 minutes. Flip patties over and cook 5 minutes longer. Serve patties with leafy greens and tomato slices on hamburgers buns.

MATCH: Find a bottle of New Zealand Syrah and dig in. × SEARCH THROUGH A WIDE RANGE OF WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/

BEAN, CUCUMBER AND AVOCADO SANDWICH SERVES 4

This open-faced sandwich is also delicious with hummus instead of the beans. Try other toppings such as chopped cherry tomatoes, roasted red peppers, thinly sliced apples, olives, alfalfa sprouts, pumpkin seeds or pine nuts.

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can garbanzo or white beans, drained tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste slices multigrain bread, toasted small cucumber, peeled, thinly sliced and patted dry avocado, pitted and thinly sliced tbsp red onion, minced

In a food processor, puree beans with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Spread bean mixture over toasted bread. Top with cucumber, avocado and red onion. Serve any leftover cucumber slices on the side.

SOBA NOODLES WITH TOFU, CABBAGE AND CARROTS

VEGGIE CHILI SERVES 4

Although I’m not vegan, I do eat vegan at least once a week. I’ve been making this for many years as a way to get my chili fix without meat. Use low-sodium organic beans and tomatoes.

1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1/2 1 1 1 1 2 1

tbsp olive oil or coconut oil sweet red bell pepper, seeded and chopped sweet yellow bell pepper, seeded and chopped onion, peeled and chopped cup mushrooms, sliced cloves garlic, minced tsp minced canned chipotle pepper in adobo sauce tbsp chili powder tsp cumin can red kidney beans, rinsed can black beans, rinsed can tomatoes, diced can tomato sauce tbsp cilantro, minced tsp pumpkin seeds, toasted

In a Dutch oven, sauté peppers, onions and mushrooms in oil until softened. Add garlic, chipotle, chili powder and cumin.

Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add beans, tomatoes and tomato sauce.

Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.

Ladle chili into bowls, garnish with cilantro and pumpkin seeds.

MATCH: Deserves a light red like a Gamay.

Japanese soba noodles are thin noodles made with buckwheat.

You can grate the cabbage and carrots yourself or use a bag of coleslaw mix with shredded carrots.

1 package soba noodles, cooked according to package directions

1/4 cup rice vinegar

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp sesame oil

2 tsp maple syrup

1 tsp sesame seeds

1 tbsp coconut oil

1 package firm or extra firm tofu, cubed

2 cups shredded cabbage

1/4 cup shredded carrots

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp gingerroot, freshly grated

2 scallions, thinly sliced Sesame seeds Hot sauce 1. Make rice vinegar dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil and maple syrup. Set aside.

2. In a large skillet, cook tofu in hot oil over medium heat until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from skillet and set aside.

3. Add cabbage, carrots, garlic and ginger. Cook, stirring, until cabbage and carrots are tender, about 3 minutes.

4. Combine rice vinegar dressing with cooked noodles, tofu and cabbage mixture. Garnish with sesame seeds. Serve with hot sauce. × APRIL 2018 43

BUYING GUIDE All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio.

Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new.

Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and wine clubs

SPARKLING VILLA SANDI ASOLO BRUT MILLESIMATO 2016, PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG, ITALY ($22)

Unusually fine spritz for Prosecco with delicate floral and orchard fruit scents, flavours of pear, ripe apple, a splash of vanilla and a trace of citrus on the slightly off-dry finish. (SW) FIRST FRUIT: WORLD OF FOG PÉT-NAT 2017, NIAGARA ($25)

This pét-nat sparkling wine shows a gentle mousse, a light copper colour and some cloudiness in the glass. It is beautifully aromatic with pulpy citrus, fuzzy peach, grapefruit and with wonderfully funky yet subtle notes of smoke, gunflint and ginger/lychee. It’s bright and expressive on the palate with electric acidity and a slight reductive/mineral note to go 44 @ QUENCH_MAG

with citrus, melon, crushed peaches and fresh-stomped grapes. (RV) ESCORIHUELA 1884 EXTRA BRUT, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($25)

A Traditional Method fizz combining 70% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Noir showing mellow citrus and subtle berry scents with rich lemon citrus flavour leading on the palate. Red berry and vanilla flavours emerge on mid-palate with a lick of caramel on the finish. (SW)

BAILLY LAPIERRE RÉSERVE BRUT, CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, FRANCE ($26)

A blend of four grapes: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté, this opens with fragrant light floral scents showing fine persistent mousse and soft fruity flavours in the mouth. Red berries, apple and some citrus are discernible, backed by refreshing but not overbearing acidity, light mineral, a splash of vanilla and a gentle touch of residual sweetness on the finish. (SW)

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

BARTIER BROS. MERLOT 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($24) VIBRANT, BLACK FRUIT AROMAS OF BLACKBERRY, CASSIS AND SOME STONY NOTES PRECEDE A LUSCIOUS, BLACK FRUIT DRIVEN PALATE IN PERFECT BALANCE OF FRUIT AND ACIDITY UNDERPINNED BY SEAMLESS TANNINS WITH CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA HINTS, A MINERAL STREAK AND VELVET MOUTHFEEL THROUGH A LENGTHY, PLUSH FINISH. TBY TIM PAWSEY

NINO FRANCO RUSTICO BRUT VALDOBBIADENE, PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG, ITALY ($32)

Shows surprisingly lively spritz with delicately perfumed, honeyed green fruit and floral scents that generously introduce flavoured apple and pear with drying mineral grip, lingering honeyed fruit and refreshing acidity. Fine Prosecco from one of the region’s most prestigious producers. (SW) BLUE MOUNTAIN BLANC DE BLANCS RD 2009, OKANAGAN FALLS ($40)

The pioneering winery’s RD series takes Okanagan sparkling wines to the next level. Fine bubbles and a lively mousse with biscuit and zesty notes before a citrus-toned, generous, rounded palate defined by toasty and leesy flavours, well-integrated with lemon, honey and waxy notes, generous mouthfeel and lengthy close. (TP) BLUE MOUNTAIN BRUT RESERVE RD 2009, OKANAGAN FALLS ($40)

An even blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, disgorged August 2016. A fine stream and solid mousse with brioche and stone fruit up front, followed by toasty and distinctive Pinot notes on the palate with almond hints and well-defined, structured mouthfeel and tension.

Excellent acidity, citrus and stone fruit through a lengthy finish. (TP)

RECAREDO BRUT NATURE ROSAT CAVA INTENS GRAN RESERVA 2011, SANT SADURNI D’ANOIA, SPAIN ($45)

Elegant, dry and lively with a fresh, creamy mouthfeel, aromas and flavours of cherry, anise and spice. A tight core with a savoury, lifted finish that begs food. A blend of Pinot Noir, Monastrell and Garnacha, biodynamically farmed, riddled by hand and disgorged by hand without freezing. A nice match with charcuterie, lamb carpaccio or braised rabbit. (GB) RUGGERI ROSE DI PINOT BRUT NV, VENETO, ITALY ($28)

Bright and lively with juicy strawberry and citrus flavours, floral notes, fun and accessible. Well-balanced and pleasing to drink on its own and a great match with brunch. (GB) V8+ RIBOLLA GIALLA VINO SPUMANTE BRUT NV, VENETO, ITALY ($35)

Fresh and racy with peach, citrus and a touch of almond, fine bubbles, dry and mouth-watering on the lingering finish.

Perfect to pair with savoury hors d’oeuvres and fritto misto. (GB) ACQUI TERME CUVAGE ROSÉ BRUT, NEBBIOLO D’ALBA DOC METODO CLASSICO, ITALY ($42)

Made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, this remarkable Traditional Method fizz shows a light blush in the glass with fine,

persistent bead. Lively floral and fruity scents are accented with a whiff of yeasty brioche. Refined red fruit flavours, with discernible redcurrant character, give a slight impression of sweetness, though finishing very dry. Bright acidity, stony mineral and lingering sensations of bright fruit complete the picture. (SW) PIERRE PAILLARD BRUT GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE NV, BOUZY, FRANCE ($56)

Lightly toasted brioche, citrus and spice aromas with lovely balance; refined, elegant and approachable, soft, mouth-watering acidity with notes of stone fruit, lemon mousse and fresh ginger. A clean, minerally finish. A great value. (GB) VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT YELLOW LABEL NV, AC CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($65)

Consistency is key at Veuve, and Yellow Label is their epitome of sameness. 50 different vineyards and 25 to 40% reserve wine (from 5 to 6 vintages) is blended back into the blend of 50 to 55% Pinot Noir, 15 to 20% Pinot Meunier and 28 to 33% Chardonnay. This is always a richer, doughier style, with brioche, dough, red apple and a fine shaking of nutmeg spicing. The cushy palate is plumped with a generous dosage, and stunted by a shorter finish. Easy, approachable and still complex and rich. Consistency is key and perfectly achieved. (TR) APRIL 2018 45

BUYING GUIDE POL ROGER BRUT RESERVE NV, AC CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($66)

Pol is classic Brit-styled Champagne from equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and from 150 parcels across some 30 crus. Brioche, dough, hazelnuts and red apple are generous on the palate, aided by 20% reserve wines, and reined in with a fine grip of acidity.

Dosage is 9-10 g/L. Reserved at present, this is one of those NVs that will benefit from some time in your cellar. (TR)

note; light to medium-bodied, off-dry flavours of honeyed grapefruit and lime. (TA) TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2015, ONTARIO ($19)

A very reliable Riesling, vintage after vintage. Spicy, minerally nose of honeyed grapefruit; light-bodied, off-dry, honey, grapefruit and lemon flavours that finish crisply with good length. (TA) CHABERTON CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)

Grapes sourced from Oliver’s Gehringer Brothers Vineyard. Lifted orchard fruits and quiet buttery notes before a fresh and lively palate of citrus and almond, creamy texture with juicy acidity and a streak of minerality through a zesty close. (TP)

WHITE UNDER $20

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CROATIA CANADA CHABERTON DRY BACCHUS RESERVE 2014, FRASER VALLEY ($15)

Upfront floral, citrus notes precede a lively lemon-lime palate underpinned by bright acidity before a clean, zesty close. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18)

Classic varietal aromas of rose petal, seductive floral and ginger notes precede a luscious, layered and perfumed palate of ginger and orange blossom with a hint of lingering spice in the finish. (TP) ST HUBERTUS RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18)

Pale straw in colour with a minerally, reductive nose of limes with a light floral 46 @ QUENCH_MAG

ILOK CELLARS GRAŠEVINA 2016, CONTINENTAL ($14)

Graševina is what the Croatians call Welschriesling, which — just to confuse you — has nothing to do with Wales; the grape is also known as Riesling Italico.

The wine is bright straw in colour with a greenish tint. It has a grassy, minerally nose of grapefruit and comes on rather like a well-balanced, cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc. (TA)

it has a spicy lanolin and lemon balm nose with a note of cut grass. Medium-bodied and crisply dry, it has flavours of elderberries and gooseberries — very fresh and lively on the palate. (TA) ANDRÉ BLANCK & FILS ALTENBOURG GEWURZTRAMINER 2016, ALSACE ($20)

Textbook offering that inundates the senses with rose, lychee, sweet peach, honey, grapefruit and cardamom. Off-dry, ripe and long-lasting. Époisses or Munster cheese please! (ES)

ITALY MONTRESOR SOAVE CLASSICO 2015 DOP ($15)

Intensely concentrated yellow fruit with enticing hazelnut background aromas evolve to refined lemony flavours delivered in an unctuously smooth texture with lively acidity and chalky mineral. Finishes with stone fruit and more typical Soave almond notes. Outstanding value. (SW) CA’BOLANI PINOT GRIGIO 2016, FRIULI AQUILEIA ($17)

Packs lots of flavour and easily bests many Italian Pinot Grigios out there in the marketplace. Peach, apple, citrus, honey, white flower and hints of pineapple are layered on lively acidity and a long finish. (ES)

FRANCE PORTUGAL DOMAINE DE LA CHAISE TOURAINE SAUVIGNON 2016, LOIRE ($17)

Here’s a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire’s Touraine region that comes on like a white Bordeaux. Medium straw in colour,

MEIO QUEIJO BRANCO 2016, DO DOURO ($13)

Fairly vigorous nose of apples and pears with a splash of lime. Medium-bodied, and

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BUYING GUIDE amply fruity (more apples and a wedge of lemon) but in a reserved way with crisp acidity and a hint of bitterness on a long finish. A food wine, its palate-refreshing acidity slices nicely through a hearty fish chowder. Good value. Drink up. (RL)*

fruit flavours showing white peach, prickly acidity and firm mineral grip. Finish offers attractive creaminess with suggestions of apricot and tropical fruit. (SW)

CANADA UNITED STATES KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, CALIFORNIA ($20)

From multiple vineyards located up and down the coast of California. This has a voluptuous nose of layered and expressive apple, pear, vanilla, buttered toast and creamy barrel spices. It’s lush and spicy on the palate with a range of ripe orchard fruits, mango, pineapple and just enough acidity to keep it lively on the finish. (RV)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA WAKEFIELD CLARE VALLEY ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($16)

Bright medium straw colour with spicy, light floral, apple and lemon aromas; medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced with a lovely mouthfeel that finishes fresh and lively on the palate. (TA)

AUSTRIA LAURENZ V. UND SOPHIE SINGING GRÜNER VELTLINER 2015, QUALITÄTSWEIN AUS ÖSTERREICH ($20)

Fragrant floral and fresh green fruit scents with a pinch of white pepper shift to stone 48 @ QUENCH_MAG

LAKEVIEW CELLARS KERNER MORGAN VINEYARD 2016, NIAGARA ($18)

Kerner is an aromatic varietal that was first created in 1929 by crossing Riesling with Trollinger. This rendition is chockfull of peach, pineapple, grapefruit, lime and white flowers. Very refreshing with a clean aftertaste. (ES) LAKEVIEW CELLARS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, NIAGARA ($18)

Guava, lemon balm, white grapefruit, gooseberry, melon and herbs. Medium plus length, sound acid and ready to drink with freshwater perch or fried calamari. (ES) SPIERHEAD RIESLING GFV SADDLE BLOCK 2015, OKANAGAN ($20)

Aromas and flavours of lime, peach and green apple; moderate acidity and a touch of residual sugar, a little sweet and sour but clean and juicy. Think halibut with a mango, lime, jalapeño salsa. (GB)

FRANCE CANET CHARDONNAY OAK RESERVE 2015, IGP PAYS D’OC ($14)

Clear medium-deep yellow. Pear, orange and wood on the nose. Full-bodied with quaffable but interesting oaky apple and pear flavours. Scores high only if you like oak. Drink up. (RL)* DOMAINE DES QUINTS SAUMUR 2016, LOIRE ($17)

Pale straw in colour with a spicy, anise, apple and oaky nose; medium-bodied, dry, quince and lemon flavours. Firmly structured with a mouth-freshening acidic finish; a seafood wine if ever there was. (TA) CHÂTEAU D’ARGADENS BLANC 2016, BORDEAUX ($18)

65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon. Pale straw in colour with a smoky, struck flint (reductive) nose of cut grass and green plum; medium-bodied, dry, crisp, grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. (TA) CHÂTEAU MONCONTOUR TÊTE DE CUVÉE BRUT VOUVRAY, LOIRE ($18)

A traditional method sparkler made from Chenin Blanc. Straw-coloured with a bouquet of apple, quince and a light floral note; medium-bodied, bright, crisply dry, apple and lemon flavours. (TA)

CHILE ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2016, VALLE DE ACONCAGUA ($19)

Opens with almost Sauvignon-like grassy herbal freshness on the nose.

Shifts to elegant citrus and stone fruit on the palate, backed by incisive acidity and mineral notes nicely offset with textural roundness. (SW)

GERMANY DR. SIEMENS SERRIGER WÜRZBURG RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB 2008, MOSEL ($18)

A great price for this wine going on 10 years old. Straw colour with a nose of honey, lime and warm hay; light-bodied,

sweetish grapefruit and lime flavours with great length ending on a note of tarragon. Drink soon. (TA)

GREECE

freshing acidity and a touch of mineral.

Shows more ripeness than its Iberian antecedent but well worth a try. (SW)

TOWNSHIP 7 RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

TETRAMYTHOS RODITIS 2016, PATRAS ($14)

A straightforward, unpretentious Greek white with flavours of peach, citrus, white flowers and mineral notes. Refreshing, there is very good length. Chill and serve on the patio this summer. (ES)

ITALY MASTROBERARDINO MASTRO GRECO 2016, CAMPANIA ($17)

This southern Italian white is reminiscent of Gewürztraminer, what with its lychee, peach, floral qualities that mesh with lemon and pear. A creamy texture finishes off with minerality. Drink up. (ES) MASTROBERADINO MASTRO GRECO 2015, IGT GRECO, CAMPANIA ($25)

Almonds, white blossom, quince, crystalline lemon and a fine slick of pear in this Greco from Campania. Calcareous clay-loam soils at approximately 300 m altitude site this lighter-bodied wine, with 3 months in stainless on lees. Bright acidity and a slight wash of salts on the finish make this particularly food friendly, especially with shellfish, scallops or endive salad. (TR)

CANADA 2027 CELLARS WISMER VINEYARD FOX CROFT BLOCK CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($23)

This Chard has a highly expressive nose of green apple, mineral, pear, subtle oak and a touch of citrus. It has lovely texture on the palate, beautiful balance and poise, with bright orchard fruits, lemon chiffon, seamless spice, swirling minerals and a clean, vibrant finish. (RV)

Buttery lemon citrus, vanilla and a hint of hazelnut on the nose yield to clean citrus flavours with good weight and balance, finishing with toasty, buttery notes and refreshing acidity. (SW)

URUGUAY COLINAS DE URUGUAY ALBARIÑO 2015 ($20)

Green fruit scents on the rather shy nose expand on the palate with distinctive, characterful leafy green fruit flavours showing good depth, balanced and re-

From Sundial Vineyard on the east side of Black Sage Bench. Vibrant orchard fruits and vanilla notes precede a well-textured, creamy and balanced palate of stone fruit, citrus and tropical tones with well-managed oak, moderate acidity and a lengthy, buttery end. (TP) BLACK HILLS CHARDONNAY 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($30)

Orchard fruits and buttery vanilla notes precede a mouth-filling palate of apple, pear and butterscotch with a touch of sage, good length and a creamy finish. (TP) FIELDING ESTATE THEO’S BLOCK RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($30)

40 KNOTS ZIGGY SIEGERREBE 2016, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($23)

This Riesling has such a brilliant nose of expressive lime, grapefruit, ginger and wet-stone minerality. It’s perfectly dry and refreshing on the palate with a tart citrus core, racy acidity, texture and driving minerality through the racy finish.

Very fine, terroir-driven Riesling that will age quite well. (RV)

LARIANA CELLARS VIOGNIER 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($23)

CULMINA DILEMMA 2015, OKANAGAN ($34)

From a breezy oceanside vineyard, the largest in the Comox Valley, mid-Vancouver Island. Upfront tropical and honey notes precede a fresh palate of citrus, melon and guava with good acidity and a clean finish. (TP)

Whole-cluster pressed and concrete-egg fermented, with moderate neutral French Oak. Lifted tropical and floral notes followed by a luscious, fresh palate with mandarin and pineapple hints; mouth filling and juicy with balanced oak and acidity through a generous, lengthy end. (TP)

UNITED STATES CHATEAU ST JEAN CHARDONNAY 2015, SONOMA COUNTY ($20)

supported by bright acidity and excellent tension through a zesty end. (TP)

MCWATTERS COLLECTION CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN ($25)

A more restrained style from Harry McWatters in a vintage that was harvested the earliest on record. It shows a nose pear, elegant oak spice, green apple and toasted vanilla. It is beautiful on the palate with a fresh and vibrant feel in the mouth that showcases a balanced package of pear, apple crisp, integrated oak, spice and a finessed finish. (RV) TOWNSHIP 7 RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)

Slightly petroleum, baked apple and citrus aromas before a keenly focused palate with luscious lemon-lime and apricot

This wine has a rich nose of apples, vanilla toast, minerals, elegant barrel spices and underlying lemon and citrus. It is pure sophistication on the palate, a proper and graceful Chardonnay with a sense of place that shows the fine minerality of the vineyard and lovely toasted oak that works well with the baked apple, pear and spice flavours that are well-balanced to the very end. (RV)

CROATIA STINA CUVÉE WHITE 2015 ($24)

Ever had Croatian wine before? Then chances are you haven’t tried the grapes Pošip and Vugava either, the main varieties in this Dalmatian coast blend (alongside 10% Chardonnay). Stein is one of Croatia’s top wineries, and based on the island of Brač. Young vines on limestone-led soils were aged 6 months in stainless, and display creamy pear, ripe cantaloupe, lemon and green fig in a moderate 12% frame. A plump, gently honeyed APRIL 2018 49

BUYING GUIDE 40 KNOTS L’ORANGE 2016, COMOX VALLEY, BC ($37) 40 KNOTS TOOK SCHÖNBURGER AND PINOT GRIS GRAPES, AND FERMENTED AND AGED THEM ON THE SKINS IN ITALIAN TERRACOTTA AMPHORA. IT HAS A GORGEOUS NOSE OF MARMALADE, CITRUS RIND, MULLED APPLE, PEACH AND TANGERINE. ON THE PALATE, THIS UNUSUAL WINE DISPLAYS A TASTY BROTH OF FRESH ORCHARD FRUITS, SUBTLE HERBS AND HOPS THAT WOULD PAIR NICELY WITH A RANGE OF CHEESES AND CHARCUTERIE. TBY RICK VANSICKLE

cushion on the palate supports, while frisky acidity lifts. This is a natural with scallops or succulent spot prawns. (TR)

FRANCE OLLIEUX ROMANIS 2013, CUVÉE CLASSIQUE, AOC CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($27)

This organic blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc is from one of the largest privately-owned wineries in Corbières, covering 130 ha. Ollieux Romanis has belonged to the same family since 1860. This is full-bodied and round, slicked with the heady ripeness of the region and grapes, with honeysuckle, green fig, dried sage and rosemary. The palate is deep and spiced, lined with lees and honey, finishing with an alluring spicy finish and a flush of warmth. A few years in bottle is this wine’s friend. Partner with roasted winter squash or braised chicken thighs. (TR)

ITALY OCCHIPINTI SP68 BIANCO 2016, IGT TERRE SICILIANE BIANCO ($34)

From one of the world’s leading natural winemakers and advocates, Arianna Oc50 @ QUENCH_MAG

chipinti blends 15 to 55-year-old Moscato di Alessandria and Albanello from south western Sicily’s limestone-laced soils in this biodynamic, non-interventionist wine. Native ferment, with no inputs save for a touch of sulphur at bottling.

After 15 days of skin contact, this spends six months in concrete tank before it is bottled, unfined and unfiltered. Slightly cloudy, light golden in hue, with white and pink blossom (slightly wilted), herbal lemon thistle, orange custard, apricot fuzz, pear skin, cold cream, all on a creamy peach flan palate, slim at 12% and bristling with tense acidity. There’s an alluring prettiness in the imperfections of this wine, so typical of her wines. (TR)

UNITED STATES BACHELDER WILLAMETTE VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2013, OREGON ($25)

Sourced from a few sites in the northern Willamette and vinified at Carlton Winemakers Studio (alongside like-minded garagistes), this was barrel fermented with native yeast before 18 months rest in wood (15% new French oak, the rest 1 to 5 years old), and blended just prior to bottling.

In Bachelder’s Burgundian-toned way,

this carries a slick of flint throughout the generous form, tinged with lemon balm and verbena on a creamy, stone-fruited, popcorn base. A sea salt snap tightens the whole and rings on the finish. Poured blind, I probably wouldn’t say Willamette, but I would say Bachelder. (TR) ACACIA VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2014, CARNEROS, CALIFORNIA ($35)

Deeply coloured gold/straw with mellow ripe citrus, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose; rich creamy lemon citrus and buttery notes on the palate with balancing acidity and buttery lemon on the medium length finish. (SW)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA FEROX RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($38)

This Riesling shows lovely lime, grapefruit, peach, minerals and subtle ginger notes on the nose. It has a perfectly dry impression on the palate with a range of grapefruit, apple skin, lime, slate minerality and decent acidity through the finish. (RV)

FRANCE LOUIS MOREAU VAULIGNOT CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 2015, BURGUNDY ($39)

Tasted both in Burgundy and here at home with the same score. The warm vintage has produced a wine with a sumptuous texture and flavours of peach, sweet apple, lemon, white flowers and minerals. The finale is crisp and clean. Drink now. (ES)

UNITED STATES DOMAINE DROUHIN ARTHUR CHARDONNAY 2014, ESTATE GROWN DUNDEE HILLS, OREGON ($38)

Opens with mellow lemon citrus and subtle floral scents and lemon citrus flavours, hazelnut and a pinch of spice, all delivered in a creamy smooth package. Hazelnut and spicy notes linger on the finish. (SW)

RECOMMENDED FRANCE

package helps the yeast sediment gather at the neck of the bottle, ready for the consumer to release. If the bottle isn’t stored upside down, it needs be inverted for at least an hour to settle all the yeast in the neck. If you haven’t disgorged before, and don’t want a giant mess, it’s best done underwater (Google it for numerous videos showing how). The added step is worth it however, to taste the freshest fizzy Pinot Noir from this 130-year-old vineyard in Brda, Slovenia, just across the Italian border. The estate had been in existence since 1700, and Ales Kristancic has manned the helm for the last few decades. This naturalist property is farmed organically and biodynamically, and no inputs are added to the wines. This pours a cloudy peach pink, streams fine bubbles and streaks with lifted acidity.

Riotous and pure, with piercing grippy apricot fuzz, peach pit, raspberry bush, wild thyme and light-scented cherry blossom floating atop a mineral, iron clad base. Finely textural and grippy. Highly refreshing, authentic and unique, this is a must-buy for those seeking authenticity of place and wine experience. (TR)

GUY SAGET 2015, POUILLY-FUMÉ AC ($37)

Aromatic varietal character reveals green fruit, grassy herbal and passion fruit with full-flavoured gooseberry, a pungent mineral note and vibrant acidity, finishing with uncharacteristic fruity ripeness. (SW)

RED

HÖPLER ROSÉ CÉLESTIA 2016, BURGENLAND, AUSTRIA ($18)

Clear pale copper. Medium-intensity nose of strawberry-rhubarb pie and peaches.

A food wine, dignified and fruity with flavours of melon, lemon and peach, but restrained by fine acidity. Would be a versatile apéritif to accompany charcuterie and cheeses. Ready to drink. (RL)* MOVIA PURO ROSÉ 2016, SLOVENIA ($45)

Striking for numerous reasons, initially from the packaging: a cardboard tube that holds this sparkling wine upside down.

This is not a gimmick; this traditional method fizz is undisgorged, so the

D’ARENBERG THE FOOTBOLT SHIRAZ 2014, MCLAREN VALE ($17)

Dense purple-black in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackberry nose augmented by vanilla oak notes; full-bodied, dry, savoury-spicy black fruit flavours held in check by a firm tannic structure. (TA)

CHILE CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($20)

Dense purple colour with a cedary, smoky, black plum nose backed by oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, savoury, blackcurrant and red plum flavours with a hint of liquorice and iodine, finishing with ripe tannins. (TA) MIGUEL TORRES CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MAIPO VALLEY ($20)

Opaque black/purple, this quintessential Chilean Cab doles out crème de cassis, blackberry, tobacco smoke, fresh herbs, baking spice, cocoa and vanilla.

Full-bodied with ripe tannins and an extended aftertaste. (ES)

FRANCE

UNDER $20

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

ROSÉ

AUSTRALIA

ARGENTINA KAIKEN ULTRA MALBEC 2014, LUJÁN DE CUYO, MENDOZA ($19)

Cool black fruit from a warm place, one freshened with altitude and not hemmed in with oak. There is certainly wood here, but it is only 1/3 new, and partially offset by the altitude of three zones of Uco Valley ranging from 1,100 to 1,400 miles above sea level: Vistaflores, Gualtallary and Altamira.

Smoked black and red fruits, anise, perfumed wild blueberries, peppercorns, all amply sun-ripened and with the full impact of grainy tannins. Swigs of cola are slung across the finish of this warm Malbec, one destined to be best encountered with fire grilled beef. (TR)

DOMAINE DE MILHOMME VIGNE CENTENAIRE 2015, AC BEAUJOLAIS ($17)

Clear deep plum red. Forward nose of raspberries, violets and blueberries.

Light-bodied with more raspberry and blueberry fruit framed by bright acidity.

Quaffable, but also a friendly accompaniment to the fat texture and spices of a tourtière. Ready to drink. (RL)* LA FERME DU MONT LE PONNANT CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2015 ($20)

The Côtes du Rhône region produces red wines that are ideal for cold winter evenings. They can be blends of up to 14 local varieties but this one is 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Dense purple in colour — as you’d expect from a warm sunny vintage that far south — it’s got a nose of blackberries and vanilla oak; full-bodied and dry, it has a distinct flavour of freshly picked blackberries with fresh acidity. (TA) APRIL 2018 51

BUYING GUIDE ITALY LA TORRE GUINZANO SAN GIMIGNANO ROSSO 2013, TUSCANY ($17)

An absolute steal from Tuscany. Made from 70% Sangiovese and the rest Cab Sauv and Merlot, it is an elegant red with dark cherry, plum, cassis, chocolate, humus and spice. Sangiovese’s acidity is present and the tannins are suave. Great length and delicious! (ES)

SOUTH AFRICA WARWICK ESTATE PINOTAGE 2015, STELLENBOSCH ($16)

Medium-intensity nose with raspberry, fig, green and black pepper and cedar, all with the hard-to-describe, sweaty, funky aromas of Pinotage. Medium-bodied, tasting of mixed red and black berries with lively acidity. Will last another couple of years. (RL)*

ry fill the shorter palate of this Malbec/Bonarda/Syrah blend, one floating with perfumed blue fruits (plums, blueberries) and clipped with grippy, dusty tannins. A unique blend, shaped with a veneer of oak and ample coating of black peppercorns. Meant for your mid-week meatballs, well-intended and appreciated. (TR)

AUSTRALIA TORMARESCA TRENTANGELI, ORGANIC, CASTEL DEL MONTE DOC ($19)

Complex refined bouquet boasts fleshy dark berry fruit with hints of mulberries, cedary pencil box, a dusting of cinnamon and a pinch of clove. Generously concentrated dark berry fruit shows a touch of sweetness countered by fresh acidity, firm dry tannic bite and dark baker’s chocolate. Best with another couple of years in the cellar. (SW) MONTE ZOVO SA’ SOLIN RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA 2014 ($19)

Rich nose of kirsch, raspberry, savoury herbs and spice. Red and dark fruits rock on the palate and work well with the smoky cedar, light spice and some structure along a lively finish. A very nice wine at an appealing price. (RV)

SPAIN MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS GRAN RESERVA 2010, GARNACHA/TEMPRANILLO/ CARIÑENA, DO CARIÑENA ($17)

This complex, deeply scented wine spent 24 months in barrel before release. It reveals blackberry and black plum accented with cinnamon and black pepper on the nose, with rich blackberry and blackcurrant compote and a splash of dark chocolate in the mouth. Drinking quite well now but can benefit from additional cellaring to tame still forward acidity. (SW)

RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA

NEW ZEALAND MOUNT RILEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($18)

Quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon.

Pale straw in colour with a grassy gooseberry and green plum nose; medium-bodied, crisply dry, bright and elegant, passion fruit and lime flavours. (TA) 52 @ QUENCH_MAG

DOMINO DEL PLATA SUSANA BALBO CRIOS MALBEC 2015, VALLE DE UCO ($15)

Spicy, plum nose with vanilla oak notes; medium-bodied, dry, fruity but firm. An easy drinking wine. (TA) TRIVENTO AMADO SUR MALBEC/BONARDA/SYRAH 2014, MENDOZA ($16)

Dusty stone, black cherry and raspber-

SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE SHIRAZ 2014 ($10)

Clear medium-deep garnet. Pleasing and complex aromas of Christmas cake and rhubarb jam, also a bit of black liquorice.

Lots of ripe fruit flavours including brandied raisins and cherries. Drink up. (RL)* FOWLES WINE FARM TO TABLE CABERNET/MERLOT 2015, VICTORIA ($16)

From the folks who brought you Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz.

Deep ruby in colour with a spicy blackcurrant, blackberry and cedary nose; medium-bodied, dry, savoury black fruit and peppery flavours with fresh acidity; well-balanced, fruity but firmly structured. Good value. (TA)

CANADA D’ONT POKE THE BEAR RED 2016, ONTARIO ($15)

Billed as ‘a cheeky blend of Cabernet and Ontario’s newest favourite, Baco Noir,’ this easy-drinking wine is dense purple in colour with a cedary-herbal nose of black fruits; medium-bodied, slightly sweet, spicy, clove and blackberry flavours; fruity but firm and commercial. (TA)

XAD

ADAMO WINE IN FOLDER

BUYING GUIDE CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES GAMAY NOIR 2016, NIAGARA ($16)

Strawberry, plum, cherry and black pepper. Mid-weight, the tannins are smooth, and there is very good length. Pair with a charcuterie and cheese board. (ES)

CHILE COUSINO MACUL CABERNET SAUVIGNON ANTIGUAS RESERVAS 2014, MAIPO VALLEY ($17)

Attractive nose of ripe red fruits, earthy and oaky notes. Full-bodied, the powdery tannins are a little bitter and dry. Acidity is on the plus side, underlining the tannic structure. Approachable now, it will hold about 5 years. (GBQc)

FRANCE VIGNOBLES CANET MERLOT/CABERNET SAUVIGNON SPECIAL OAK RÉSERVE 2014, IGP PAYS D’OC ($13)

Medium-intensity nose with plum, date, raisin and coconut from the oak. Medium-bodied with more oak flavours over ripe sour cherries. Alcohol tastes prominently. Drink in 2018. (RL)* CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET 2014, AC BORDEAUX ($14)

Middling nose of sour cherry and leather.

Medium-bodied with bright but simple and thin raspberry/cherry flavours and bitter tannins on the finish. Drink up. (RL)* DOMAINE DE PELLEHAUT HARMONIE DE GASCOGNE ROUGE 2015, IGP CÔTES DE GASCOGNE, SUD-OUEST ($17)

Domaine de Pellehaut has been owned 54 @ QUENCH_MAG

and managed by successive generations of the Béraut family for over 300 years.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Syrah, Malbec and Pinot Noir, averaging 27 years of age, go into this medium-bodied Côtes de Gascogne blend. Dusky black cherry, black plum and cassis along a raft of silky fine tannins to a juicy, plum swelled and peppery finish. Easy to drink and enjoy now; an ideal bistro red at an exceptional price or pour liberally around the barbecue. (TR)

dium-bodied and linear, there is a profile of cherry, plum, tar, herbs, tomato paste, vanilla and dried earth. Great length and some gritty tannins make for an ideal pairing with a braised lamb shank or a medium rare NY Strip. Buy it by the case and enjoy until 2022. (ES)

GÉRARD BERTRAND CORBIÈRES 2014, MIDI ($19)

Good varietal Cabernet nose shows blackcurrant and typical herbal and spicy notes. Ripe, sweet raisiny flavours reveal warm climate character with stiff dry tannins on the finish. An agreeable wine but, at 15%, a little heavy on the alcohol. (SW)

Deep purple-ruby colour; cedary-herbal, blackberry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, savoury, firmly structured with fresh acidity, ripe tannins and a pencil lead note on the finish. (TA) TESSELLAE OLD VINES GRENACHE/ SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2015, MIDI ($19)

Dense purple in colour with a cedary, plum nose; medium to full-bodied, dry, savoury plum and black cherry flavours. Firmly structured with a silky mouthfeel. (TA) CHÂTEAU DE PIERREUX 2016, BROUILLY AC ($19)

Bright cherry fruit with peppery spice scents and lively fresh sour cherry flavours in the mouth exhibit typical young Beaujolais exuberance marred by slightly over-sweet cherry-cola character. (SW)

ISRAEL GALIL MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, UPPER GALILEE ($17)

ITALY CASTELLO DI GABBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015 ($16)

Rich in red berries, violets, plums and well-integrated spice notes. It’s fresh and vibrant on the palate with a bevy of red fruits, plums, savoury spices and some decent tannic structure through the finish. Pair with grilled steak, risotto with mushrooms or roasted pork with garlic, herbs and fennel. (RV) VECCHIA CANTINA 2015, UMBRIA ROSSO IGT ($17)

GREECE BOUTARI NAOUSSA XINOMAVRO 2015, MACEDONIA ($14)

This wine continues to be one of Greece’s greatest red wine values — period! Me-

Black cherry and green herbal character pervades this sturdy, thickly textured wine, supported by firm tannic structure, forward acidity and very dry finish.

Drink with robust red meats and tomato-based pastas. (SW)

SOUTH AFRICA

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

FARAWAY FARM PINOTAGE 2016, WESTERN CAPE ($14)

Clear medium-deep ruby red. Fairly intense smoky, sweaty nose of raspberry jam, plums and oak. Medium-bodied with simple, jammy cranberry and strawberry flavours. The finish is short and the tannins almost gone. Will last another year but won’t get better, drink now. It may be time to brush off the BBQ. (RL)*

SPAIN ALTOS IBÉRICOS CRIANZA 2014, RIOJA ($15)

Soft, easy drinking and juicy, this 100% Tempranillo is all about cherry, plum, strawberry, tobacco and cedar. Ready to drink alongside grilled sausage or spaghetti and meatballs. (ES) VIVANCO CRIANZA 2012, RIOJA ($18)

There’s a charm to young, northern Spanish reds, especially with some age to them. This current release (on our market) Crianza is modern styled, with soft raspberry, leather and perfumed plum, with moderate smoke infiltrating and vanilla potent on the bitter-edged finish. This Tempranillo aged sixteen months in French and American oak, and the shellacked grip of wood brackets the sides. This would be great with lamb meatballs on polenta. (TR) BOTIJO ROJO SINGLE ESTATE GARNACHA TINTA 2014, IGP BALDEJALÓN, ARAGON ($20)

From IGP Valdejalón, in north eastern Spain’s Zaragoza, Aragon, this small batch garagiste Garnacha is from a single dry-farmed vineyard above 400 m. Low intervention throughout, and from 40+ year old vines, this spent time in concrete (plus 5% in 3-yearold barrels). Finely gritty, grippy dusty tannins house wild raspberry, a cherry core, dried herbs and fine pepper on the finish. Acidity is brisk to a quick finish, reflective of the dry, unrelenting environment. An individual wine of terroir (my bottle was 31,002). Grilled sausages or winter squash would shoulder up well. (TR)

CANADA ROBIN RIDGE PINOT NOIR 2014, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($22)

Made from certified organically grown grapes. Dusty violet and red berries on the nose before a light to medium-bodied palate of raspberry and strawberry with earthy hints and a distinctive savoury streak supported by juicy acidity and easy tannins before a gently spicy, lengthy end.

Exceptional value. (TP) OROFINO CABERNET FRANC POZZA VINEYARD 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($23)

From a high elevation, north facing slope in Olalla, between Cawston and Green Lake. A fresh and pure varietal expression, unfiltered and unfined, concrete fermented and aged in neutral French oak.

Bursting with strawberry and red fruits, light to medium-bodied with a touch of slate and a fruity finish. (TP)

ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 11-140 CABERNET FRANC 2015, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($25)

An absolutely delicious Ontario Franc with classic cassis, raspberry, vanilla, cocoa, smoke, herbs and tobacco flavours.

Medium plus body with a long finish and enough tannins to allow 5 years of cellaring. Pair with braised short ribs or a coffee-rubbed NY Strip. (ES) SPIERHEAD PINOT NOIR WHITE LABEL 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)

A blend of Summerland and estate grown East Kelowna fruit, Dijon and Pommard clones. Violet, floral and red fruit up front before a well-balanced palate of cherry and strawberry notes; juicy and plush but not extracted with a gently spicy end. (TP) STONEBOAT ROCK OPERA 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25)

One of very few Okanagan plantings of this variety, 100% estate grown Pinotage from Black Sage gravel bar, aged 15 months in barrel. Upfront, bright red fruit precedes a medium to full-bodied palate wrapped in juicy acidity, well-structured tannins and a touch of spice through the lengthy finish. (TP)

MISSION HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, OKANAGAN ($27)

A big, juicy nose of blackcurrants, jammy cherry and raspberry with lovely barrel spice notes. It’s rich and layered on the palate, with mostly dark berries, subtle cherry notes, barrel spices, evident tannins and length through the finish. (RV) TOWNSHIP 7 ROCK POCKET VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2015, OKANAGAN ($30)

Lovely, elegant nose of integrated red fruits, spice and touches of plums, cassis and herbs. It turns bolder and spicier on the palate with red and dark fruits, black liquorice, roasted herbs, good tannic structure, savoury notes and ripe tannins on smooth finish. (RV) CHABERTON CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

From Black Sage Bench, aged in mainly French plus American oak, forward red fruit and toasty notes followed by a well-balanced palate defined by strawberry and raspberry with some smoky hints, structured acidity and refined, well-integrated tannins through a lingering red-fruit driven finish. (TP) EVOLVE ELEVATE CABERNET/SHIRAZ 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

Blackberries, earthy and vanilla notes on the nose before a medium-bodied, plush palate of ripe blackberry, black plum, cassis and toasty notes through a fruity close. (TP) 40 KNOTS STALL SPEED DRY MERLOT 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

Opens in the glass to red berry aromas, medium to full-bodied with good varietal character marked by juicy acidity, damson, mulberry and mocha notes with a savoury edge and a touch of lingering pepper spice. (TP) SPIERHEAD GFV SADDLE BLOCK 2016, EAST KELOWNA BENCH ($30)

From the original estate planting of 3 Dijon clones: 155, 777 and 828. Dark cherry up front, with forest floor hints before a structured palate with elegant mouthfeel, cherry and mulberry, layered and complex with firm tannins and a spicy end. (TP) APRIL 2018 55

BUYING GUIDE HESTER CREEK TERRA UNICA 2014, OKANAGAN ($33)

The blend of Petit Verdot and Malbec was co-fermented and barrel aged for 12 to 16 months. It shows a deep burgundy colour in the glass with a massive nose of blackberries, cassis, anise, leather, toasted spices notes and vanilla bean.

It is rich and lavish on the palate with notes of sweet cedar, leather and spice to go with a rich broth of dark berries, boysenberry, plums and mocha through a long, long finish. (RV) CORCELETTES ESTATE WINERY MERITAGE 2015, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($35)

Merlot dominant blend (60%) with Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) plus Malbec and Petit Verdot yields inviting ripe black fruit and leather notes before a well-rounded palate with approachable tannins plus a touch of slate and a lengthy end. (TP) ADAMO LOWREY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($35)

The nose on this St. David’s sourced Pinot shows rich, ripe cherry, raspberry, some cassis notes, cedar and savoury spices.

It has wonderful texture and energy on the palate with good tannic structure to showcase red fruits, earth, anise, minerals and wood spices. (RV)

CHILE MONTES ALPHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, DO COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($24)

Lively scents of blackcurrants and red berries with a whiff of green herb and background smoky notes shifting to rich blackberry flavour supported by velvety 56 @ QUENCH_MAG

tannins and deftly balanced acidity. Finishes with harmoniously integrated fruit, spice and a dash of milk chocolate. (SW) VALDIVIESO ÉCLAT 2010, MAULE ($30)

This wine bears the Vigno (Vignadores de Carignan) Association trademark. By law, any wine ordained Vigno must come from the Maule Valley, be a minimum 65% Carignan, from vines that are at least 30 years old, unirrigated and aged for 2 years before being released. This wine includes 34% Mourvedre, helping produce an impressively concentrated offering with layers of dark cherry, plum, anise, chocolate. Tannins are gritty, so serve alongside some grilled sausage or porchetta. (ES)

FRANCE FAMILLE SICHEL CHÂTEAU ARGADENS 2012, AC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ($22)

Parts of Château Argadens date back to the 12th century, so when the Sichel family purchased the property in 2002, they underwent extensive renovations and investment to highlight and preserve the site. This is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc on 5 hectares of clay and limestone, in a single plot on one of the highest hills of the rolling EntreDeux-Mers wine region (one of the highest points of the Gironde). Worn cherry, red plum, smoked wood and finely ground baking spices fill the medium-bodied palate, one finely strung, framed with tobacco tannins and trailing with dusty, drying gravels. Best appreciated with roasted beef. This spent 12 to 14 months in French oak, 25% new, before gentle fining and filtering. Classically drinkable, structured Bordeaux and priced appropriately. (TR)

DOMAINE DU GRANDE TINEL CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2015, RHONE VALLEY ($24)

This wine just serves to prove how great the 2015 vintage was in the Rhone Valley, as well as the rest of France! Made from 85% Grenache, this full-bodied red explodes with sweet cherries, plum jam, raspberry, Provencal herbs and anise. There is a sweet texture and a finale that carries long. Easily bests many CNPs that are double the price! (ES) CHÂTEAU TRILLOL GRENACHE/CARIGNAN/SYRAH 2012, AC CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($25)

From 400 m and 35 years vine age, in the hills of Corbières, this Grenache, Syrah, Carignan employs partial carbonic maceration and aging for up to 1 year in oak barrels, before light fining and no filtration. Grenache rules (nearly half ) with perfumed raspberry, strawberry, dark cherry, violets and a lurking scrubby herbaceousness on a soft, bright palate with tannins finely grippy. A fine peppery spicing and bitter blackcurrant lingers on the finish. Expect a balance and elegance you might not normally find in the south. An ideal bistro wine, well-priced, and one I’d gladly order with steak frites. (TR) STEPHANE AVIRON MORGON COTE DU PY VIEILLES VIGNES 2015, BEAUJOLAIS ($25)

If there’s anyone who still needs a reason to drink more good Beaujolais, a taste of this should do the trick. Loads of juicy black cherry, liquorice, earth, tea and pepper with firm, savoury tannins and a fresh, mineral-driven, lifted finish. Will age well for 5 to 8 years. (GB)

DOMAINE STE MICHELLE BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON, UNITED STATES ($29) SHOWS PALE GREEN IN THE GLASS WITH RELATIVELY SHY CITRUS AND GREEN APPLE SCENTS. THE SAME THEMES EVOLVE INTO GENEROUSLY FULL-FLAVOURED FRUIT FLAVOURS IN THE MOUTH, SUPPORTED BY PERSISTENT REFRESHING FIZZ, FINISHING ALMOST OFF-DRY. TBY SEAN WOOD

CHATEAU DES TOURS VIEILLES VIGNES BROUILLY 2015, AOC BROUILLY, BEAUJOLAIS ($25)

Juicy, quenching redcurrant, wild raspberry and dried strawberry bristles with acidity and potent, finely textured minerality in this old vine Brouilly, with vine age averaging 60 years. Tannins are taut and grippy/gritty through to the lingering cherry and dried floral finish. The frame is narrow but intense, stuffing all of hot 2015’s 14.5% alcohol into a sleek frame.

This is from mid-slope, broken granite and skinny, sandy soils, farmed sustainably and partially fermented in old oak for up to ten months. #GoGamayGo. (TR) CHÂTEAU PUYGUERAUD 2015, COTES DE BORDEAUX-FRANCS ($29)

Blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec serves up plum, chocolate, cherry, spice and herbs, or in other words, a textbook example. Alcohol is on the high end, so chill slightly. (ES) CLAUDIE JOBARD RULLY LA CHAUME 2015, BURGUNDY ($29)

Bright ruby with a purplish rim. Morello

cherry, raspberry, fruit stones and cranberry make the fruity inspired nose very attractive. The medium-bodied mid-palate has significant volume and a velvety texture that wraps the gently firm tannic core with crunchy fruit flavours. Drinking well now, it will hold 3 to 4 years. (GBQc) DOMAINE DES ESCARAVAILLES 2014, LES SABLIÈRES AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($30)

Every time I drink a humble Côtes du Rhône red, I chide myself for not doing it more often — especially when it’s a classic example like this. I first tasted this charming red in the UK (via The Wine Society) so when I saw it on private store shelves in BC, I picked up a few bottles and went home to grill a chicken. If you’re wondering why there’s a wee beetle on the label, “escaravailles” is the Occitan name for scarab beetles. The word was also used for the black-robed monks who occupied the area’s Catholic monasteries centuries ago. The domaine has been in the Férran family since the 1950s, and today amounts to 65 hectares of vineyards, 40 of which are in the rocky, clay-limestone hillsides of Rasteau. This Gren-

ache/Syrah blend comes entirely from Rasteau, and from vines between 30-50 years old. This spent time in stainless and oak barrels. Ample peppery raspberry, wild strawberry, perfumed anise and sweet salami are seasoned with herbal resinous scrub, so typical of the southern Rhone. Tannins are peppery, grippy and acidity is lifted to a gentle, lingering finish. This is the typical bistro, roast chicken wine and one that you should stock up on (as I did). Classic. (TR) GUY FARGE TERROIR DE GRANIT 2015, ST-JOSEPH, RHÔNE ($30)

Dark ruby, purple rim. Blackberries and a complex mix of spices, earthiness and minerality. Dense on the palate, the sandy tannins are very present and dominate the imposant fruity extract. Compact finish, aging potential of 10 years. (GBQc) FERRATON PÈRE ET FILS CALENDES CROZES-HERMITAGE 2015, RHONE VALLEY ($30)

From a top vintage comes this medium plus body red. Deep ruby/violet colour and linear in structure, it serves up a APRIL 2018 57

BUYING GUIDE melange of cassis, violets, tobacco, black pepper, oregano and hints of vanilla.

There has excellent length as well as finegrained tannins that will ensure another 5 years of life ahead. (ES)

on the finish. A great example of how good the simplicity and purity of Barbera d’Asti can be with respect to drinkability and as an everyday food wine. A great value. (GB)

JOSEPH DROUHIN 2015, RULLY AOC ($37)

PODERI COLLA NEBBIOLO D’ALBA 2013, PIEDMONT ($25)

Seductive spicy strawberry and raspberry scents lead the way for lightly sweet ripe berry flavours on the palate.

Acidity and tannins are in harmonious balance, finishing with lingering ripe red fruit. Ripe flavours characteristic of this warm vintage has created an almost New World style. (SW)

ITALY CA’TULLIO TENACE LO SCHIOPPETTINO 2015 ($22)

Deep ruby in colour with minerally, sour cherry nose and a lifted floral note; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, sour cherry flavour with a firm structure. (TA) CASTELLO DI GABBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2013 ($23)

This is richer on the nose than the Chianti Classico with a ripe broth of cherries, raspberries, earth, bramble and lovely oak spices. The palate reveals robust and savoury red fruits, plums, earth, elegant barrel spices and brilliant acidity to keep it fresh and alive through the finish. A very nice wine offered at an attractive price. (RV) BRICCO DEI GUAZZI BARBERA D’ASTI 2012, PIEDMONT ($25)

A bright and vibrant wine with juicy cherry flavours, lifted acidity, balanced and long with a touch of savoury spice 58 @ QUENCH_MAG

Ruby-garnet. Shy nose of ripe red berries, little oak if any. Supple, soft texture with a firm core. A nice roundness in the mid-palate brings elegance. Finish is firm. (GBQc) FATTORIA SELVAPIANA VIGNETO BUCERCHIALE 2012, DOCG CHIANTI RUFINA RISERVA ($56)

Outside of Chianti Classico, the sub-region Rufina, NE of Florence, holds premium position. Altitude (up to 900 m), soils (galestro, chalk and marl) and pedigree (Florentine merchant families of the Antinori and Frescobaldi lineage own the majority of acreage) make Rufina an elegant and prominent place. This estate, originally built as a summer residence for Florentine bishops, is 240 hectares, 45 of which are planted to vine and 31 to olives.

It was purchased in 1827 by Michele Giuntini Selvapiana and since 1957 it has been run by the 5th generation Giuntini family member, Francesco Giuntini Antinori. Consulting winemaker Franco Bernabei has been at Selvapiana since 1978, and Bucerchiale, their flagship wine and only made in the very best years, was born the year after he arrived. Gripped by stones and herbal thorns but with tannins eased with time in bottle, this is an age-softened Chianti Riserva with poise.

Dried roses, worn leather, dried cherry and grippy, persistent tannins run the length of this streamlined red. Graphite and dusty

stone, blue plum, fine mineral and a lifeline vein of acidity propel, but those chewy tannins still dry out on the finish. I would pour this with rabbit and wild mushrooms and be quite content. (TR)

PORTUGAL QUINTA DO CRASTO SUPERIOR 2014, DOURO DOC ($35)

This wine comes from Crasto’s Douro Superior estate, Quinta da Cabreira, where the inland intensity and roasting heat of the Douro is at its highest potency.

This is a field blend of old vine Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and the intriguing Sousão, with a 1 year stint in French oak. The wood is felt, but matches the potency of the sun-drenched fruit. Leather, dried cherry, black plum, raspberry, resinous scrubby herbs and medicinal cassis is drawn slowly along a black pepper, schistous-textured palate.

Young and tight still, this relaxes with a decant, and will be even more appreciated with 5+ years in the bottle. (TR)

SPAIN BODEGAS ALVEAR PALACIO QUEMADO LOS ACILATES 2010, DO RIBERA DEL GUADIANA ($30)

Tasted again, 1 year along, and this impresses as before. Finessed and fine grained, this quietly confident Tempranillo /Syrah comes from sustainably farmed steep slopes in Ribera del Guadiana DO, in the Extremadura region near Spain’s Mediterranean coast. After a native ferment, this spends 1 year in 500 L French oak prior to 1 year in bottle,

with little intervention and low sulphur throughout. Worn leather, cured meats, salted cherry, plum, green tobacco, smoke and burnished salts are carried with a narrow stream of acidity, framed with finely worn tannins to a lingering, gentle finish. Savoury, striking, this is drinking well now. (TR)

esting nose recalls warm raisin bran muffins or perhaps date squares, also hints of candied cherries and maple syrup. On the palate, full-bodied with ripe blackberry fruit over vanilla and caramel base notes. An in-your-face Californian with high alcohol and acidity. Needed its age, tannins are still firm but mature and drinking well now. (RL)*

MIGUEL TORRES SALMOS 2014, DOQ PRIORAT ($32)

Liquorice from the llicorella soils of steep Priorato imbues this deep, rich Salmos, firmly gripped and framed by stones.

Fermented in stainless, aged 14 months in French wood. This is not about fruit; sure, there’s crushed wild cassis, wilder blackberries, black plum and blueberries that base this Cariñena/Garnacha/Syrah but this wine is much more about decomposed stones, slate and quartzite than black fruits. Balanced, finessed and strikingly ripe before a tightening shrink on the finish, this is best enjoyed now with wild lamb, boar or truffle risotto. (TR)

AUSTRALIA HARDY HAND CRAFTED TEMPRANILLO 2013, ADELAIDE HILLS ($26)

Clear, the colour of dark cherry cola.

Medium-intensity nose of dark berries and vanilla oak. Robust black cherry on the palate, barely restrained by sturdy tannins and healthy acidity. Will improve with another 1 to 2 years. (RL)*

CANADA

Superb value! Plum, blackberry, raspberry, anise, cocoa and mint weave together around polished tannins, a plush mid-palate, suave and sound acidity. Excellent length. Drink or hold. (ES)

MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE PINOT NOIR VIEILLES VIGNES 2015, BURGUNDY ($21)

Bright ruby. Clean nose of red berries, touches of oak and spice. Crunchy fruit on the palate with notes of fruit stones.

Medium-bodied, well-balanced with soft drying tannins. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

CHÂTEAU PEYRABON 2015, BORDEAUX ($24)

RECOMMENDED

UNITED STATES SIMI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, ALEXANDER VALLEY ($23)

FRANCE

LAKEVIEW CELLARS MERLOT 2013, NIAGARA ($30)

Ready to drink, there is plum, cherry, spice and cocoa coupled with a herbaceous streak. Medium body with fresh acidity and mild tannins. (ES)

Dense purple in colour (that speaks to a warm year); spicy, cedary nose of red berries and vanilla oak. Medium-bodied, dry, juicy red and blackcurrant flavours held in check by a firm tannic structure. (TA) M. CHAPOUTIER LES MEYSONNIERS 2015, CROZES-HERMITAGE AC ($26)

Opens with dark, developed fruit on the nose with a lick of liquorice, together with background mushroom and barnyard aromas. Primary blackberry fruit on the palate is less forward than the nose suggests. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and appetizing acidity, it finishes with ample fruit, dark chocolate and firm tannic grip. (SW)

DOMAINE DU PRIEURÉ MOUTIER AMET SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 2015, BURGUNDY ($32)

Bright ruby. Enticing nose of cherry, red berries over soft spicy notes. Light to medium body, delicate ripe tannins, tight acidity. It drinks easily and quite pleasantly right now. (GBQc)

CROATIA KLINKER BRICK OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2014, LODI ($24)

Dense ruby colour with a cedary, plum nose and a note of leather. Full-bodied, dry, fruity, spicy clove and blackberry flavours. (TA) GUNSIGHT ROCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, PASO ROBLES ($25)

If you are in the market for a New World, fruit forward red, look no further. Full-bodied and smooth, there are masses of cassis jam, blackberry, Chambord liqueur, plum, vanilla, cocoa and mint. Long aftertaste and ready to serve alongside some prime rib. The price is right! (ES) CASTORO CELLARS PRIMITIVO 2013, PASO ROBLES ($27)

Clear deep garnet. Forward and inter-

STINA CUVÉE RED 2015 ($24)

From the Dalmatian coast, this is a blend of local grape Plavac Mali, along with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The addition of international grapes is the winery’s attempt to reach a broader audience, though I, among many I’m sure, would be keener to try Plavac Mali, a cross between Crljenak Kaštelanski (ancestral Zinfandel) and Dobričić, solo. Oh well, perhaps another day. This is dusty plum, cassis and branch, dark mulberry and dried cherry. Tannins are rustic though the palate remains supple and friendly at 13%. Stina Winery opened on Brac Island in 2009 when Jako Vino rented a building from the Agricultural Cooperative of Bol. Wine had been made in the building, “The First Dalmatian Wine Cooperative,” since 1901. (TR)

CATHERINE ET CLAUDE MARÉCHAL GRAVEL 2015, BURGUNDY ($36)

Bright ruby. Notes of sweet cherry and raspberry fill the glass along with spices and earth, developing hints of cooked vegetables. Half-bodied with a fruity taste, it is well-balanced and feels round on the palate. Tannins are soft, barely felt even in the dry finish. Ready to drink on charcuterie, soft cheeses. (GBQc)

ITALY CASTELLO DI BOSSI C. BERARDENGA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013, TUSCANY ($23)

Ruby in colour with a mature rim; an earthy, cherry nose is backed by spicy oak; medium-bodied, dry, cherry flavour with a smoky note and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

APRIL 2018 59

BUYING GUIDE CASTELLO DI QUERCETO 2015, DOCG VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO, TUSCANY ($25)

Did you know that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian wine to be awarded Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in 1966? If you did, well done, geek. The wine was elevated to DOCG status in 1993. The wine’s history in the Tuscan region is recorded back to the 13th century, though the Vernaccia grape fell out of favour in the 20th century.

This is 85% Vernaccia, complemented with other local grapes and aged entirely in stainless steel. Lemons lead the chorus of citrus, followed by almonds and wild flowers. There’s a mushroom earthiness to the fine bed of lees that finishes this medium-bodied white with a bitter twist. (TR) BRICCO DEI GUAZZI BARBERA D’ASTI 2012, PIEDMONT ($25)

A bright and vibrant wine with juicy cherry flavours, lifted acidity, balanced and long with a touch of savoury spice on the finish. A great example of how good the simplicity and purity of Barbera d’Asti can be with respect to drinkability and as an everyday food wine. A great value. (GB)

UNITED STATES VINA ROBLES PETITE SIRAH 2013, PASO ROBLES ($21)

Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of crushed blackberries; full-bodied, well-extracted black fruit flavours with lively, balancing acidity. (TA) HESS SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($24)

As you might expect, this Cali Cab is ripe 60 @ QUENCH_MAG

and rich and full-bodied, though here there is some interest ingrained via the blend being flushed out with 10% Petite Sirah, 6% Malbec and 3% Merlot. A full oak treatment (French and American oak for 15 months) has given the rich black fruit the heavy cloak of vanilla, black forest cherry, mocha and peppercorn spicing right up through the heated finish. There is a powdery cocoa texture to the tannins, that would be best mitigated with ribs. Lacks finesse but certainly carries impact. (TR) FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION CLARET 2014, CALIFORNIA ($25)

This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has a dark ruby colour, a simple but inviting nose of ripe red fruits. Velvety, seductive with its fresh fruity taste, this is a crowd pleaser, ready to drink. (GBQc) CLOUDLINE PINOT NOIR 2015, OREGON ($29)

Attractive Pinot in Burgundian style.

Ruby colour, offering a high-toned nose of cherries with earthy, floral notes; medium-bodied, dry, well-balanced cherry and raspberry flavours with lively acidity, (TA)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TRAPICHE TERROIR SERIES FINCA AMBROSIA MALBEC 2013, GUALTALLARY ($43)

The Ambrosia on the label refers to the grower of this Malbec from Gualtallary, Tupungato in Mendoza, reflective of the Terroir Series tier. The tier began in 2003 to honour the Trapiche grape growers. This

site is at 1,300 m, on calcium carbonate soils, and with own-rooted vines 12 years in age. After native ferment in concrete, this spends 18 months in new French oak barrels, followed by another year in bottle prior to release. Lovely blue fruit, with potent cassis and crunchy, brisk acidity and grippy sides. There’s a seasoning of wild thyme that runs throughout, up to dark chocolate and espresso lingering on the lengthy finish. Expressive and long, this drinks very well now but will continue to mature easily for another 7+ years. (TR) TRAPICHE TRES 14 2011, UCO VALLEY, MENDOZA ($45)

Tres 14 may seem a strange name for a premium, high-altitude, old-vine Malbec from Vista Flores in the Uco Valley. That is, until you realize that Trapiche head winemaker, Daniel Pi’s last name is the same as 3.14, which written out = tres 14. Memorable, yeah? Just like the wine made from own-rooted, 20+ year old vines, planted 1,000 m up on clay and silty soils. This is a very small lot (garage series) wine that was fermented and aged in second-use French and American oak for nine months. Potent and perfumed wild blackberry, plum laced with heady violets on a silken palate bound with a stony grip. The wood is eaten up by the fruit, leaving a lingering dose of saltiness and light wood spicing on the finish.

Drinking very well now but will continue to age effortlessly for a few years. (TR)

AUSTRALIA BK WINES GOWER PINOT NOIR 2016, LENSWOOD, ADELAIDE HILLS ($60)

Named for grower Jeff Gower, this is a Lenswood Pinot Noir, flush with black

TORRES ALTOS IBERICOS 2014, RIOJA ($15) AN UNUSUAL 100% TEMPRANILLO FROM RIOJA. DEEP RUBY COLOUR; CEDARY, CHERRY NOSE WITH FLORAL AND SANDALWOOD NOTES; MEDIUM-BODIED, DRY, STRAWBERRY AND BLACKCURRANT FLAVOURS, ELEGANT AND SAVOURY WITH A LOVELY MOUTHFEEL AND LIVELY ACIDITY. GREAT VALUE. TBY TONY ASPLER

plum, dusky cherry, wild blackberry, with wild mushrooms, big flake salts on a juicy, muscular, frame. Root beer scoots throughout, as does a cola note, right up to the spicy finish. Hard to call this Pinot fleshy at 12.8%, but tasted next to the skinny Skin n’ Bones, that visual comes to mind. Youthful, with presence, finesse and longevity. Clones 117, 114, 115 were 90% whole bunch pressed and spent 1 month on skins before resting in Vosgessourced oak (1/4 new). (TR)

CANADA TOWNSHIP 7 PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($31)

Sourced from Okanagan Falls. Forward earthy and dark cherries on top before a more medium-bodied palate defined by vibrant cherry and strawberry, underpinned by a savoury streak, with firm tannins and appealing spicy elements through a lingering, slightly herbal finish. (TP) MOON CURSER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($37)

Aromas of dark red berries, intense juicy red and black fruit entry followed by spicy and leathery notes on a medium to full-bodied palate, well-structured with firm but approachable tannins and peppery notes through the lengthy, juicy finish. (TP)

PAINTED ROCK SYRAH 2015, SKAHA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($40)

Inviting aromas of seductive red and black fruit, pepper notes with some meaty hints precede a mouth-filling palate of mulberry, blackcurrant and vanilla, plush but not overt, with a deliberate, structured core and firm but approachable tannins.

Well-managed French oak, before a peppery and persistent close. (TP)

bec (11%), Petit Verdot (11%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (9%) yields forward black fruit and spice aromas before a seamless, elegant palate defined by structure and power. Flavours of blackberry, cassis and plum are layered and complex, emphasized by freshness and good acidity, underpinned by well-integrated tannins and measured French oak through a lengthy, peppery finish. (TP)

LEANING POST THE FREAK UNFILTERED PINOT NOIR 2016, NIAGARA ($45)

VINELAND ESTATES RESERVE CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ($50)

This natural wine has a beautiful and raw nose of crunchy red fruits, bramble and floral notes with an absence of spice. It is finessed and electric on the palate and shows a range of cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrants with something that feels and tastes like stony minerality. (RV) LARIANA CELLARS THIRTEEN 2013, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($45)

Hand-picked and hand-sorted barrel fermented blend of Cabernet Sauv, Syrah and Carménère yields dark berry fruit aromas with blackberry and anise notes before a complex, layered palate of blackberry and cassis notes interwoven with spicy, leather and toast notes with seamless tannins and vanilla in the lengthy finish. (TP) PAINTED ROCK RED ICON 2015, SKAHA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($48)

A truly flagship blend of mainly Merlot (45%) with Cabernet Franc (24%), Mal-

The nose is ripe and fulsome with purity of blackcurrants, cassis, underlying cherry, leather, vanilla bean, cocoa and herbs that come at you in waves. On the palate, it perfectly demonstrates how a wine can straddle that line between fresh and ripe with concentrated blackberries, currants, cassis followed by herb, anise and spice accents in a textured, complex style from beginning to end. (RV) HIDDEN BENCH ROSOMEL VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($58)

This is the first single-vineyard Pinot Noir bottling from the estate’s famed Rosomel Vineyard. It is such a beautiful and pretty Pinot with a nose of raspberry/bramble, tart cherry, strawberries, perfumed spices notes and a range of earth and mineral accents. It reveals complexity and structure on the palate with savoury red fruits, plush/ripe tannins, integrated oak spices and length through the finish. (RV) APRIL 2018 61

BUYING GUIDE BLACK HILLS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($100)

Inaugural single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, at premium level, yields upfront red and black fruit, earthy hints and pencil shavings precede a firm, well-balanced palate led by ripe blackberry and cassis, underpinned by approachable tannins with spicy, leather and peppery notes through a plush and rounded palate through the spicy close. (TP)

CHILE PEDRO PARRA Y FAMILIA 2014, PENCOPOLITANO ($40)

Pedro Parra is, quite literally, THE doctor of dirt. He has dug 25,000 calicatas (soil pits) around the world and consulted for numerous wineries, including Okanagan Valley’s Haywire. After many years advising others how and where to grow wines, this is his own project, based in his homeland of Concepción, the original site of vines in Chile but long since forgotten as a wine growing region. This is a field blend of Malbec, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Pais and Carménère from the red granite and fine quartz soils of six dry farmed vineyards in Itata and Cauquenes, and vines 60100 years old. After native ferment and 1 year in cement and stainless, this was lightly filtered before bottling. Thick and dense on the concentrated palate, with smoked berries, dried blueberries, tobacco, roasted meats, charcoal, leather all textured with stony grip and fine peppery spice, and cut with a balsamic sappiness. Still very much in youth, this wine-of-place is still fist tight after being opened overnight. I suggest decanting 62 @ QUENCH_MAG

and grilled lamb for current consumption, but recommend cellaring for a few years for maximum enjoyment. (TR)

FRANCE HORTEVIE 2009, AOC SAINT-JULIEN ($39)

Made by the same folks as Ducru-Beaucaillou and it shows. Excellent vintage as well. Clear, deep garnet. Ample nose of milk chocolate, dates, maple syrup, smoke and more. Velvety tannins support flavours of brandied fruits, marmalade and caramel. Roast lamb is an obligation.

Drinking perfectly now. (RL)* DOMAINE EDMOND MONNOT ET FILS LE SAUGEOT 2014, MARANGES AC ($40)

Shows spicy raspberry and secondary strawberry scents, shifting to dark cherry flavours supported by moderate tannins, still brisk acidity and a splash of dark chocolate on the well-integrated finish.

Drinking well now but will reward cellaring for 3+ years. (SW) ROBERT GIRAUD CHATEAU CÔTES DE ROL 2011, SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU AC ($44)

A classic Right Bank Bordeaux showing real Appellation character with earthy plum, blackcurrant, rounded velvety tannins, a deft touch of oak and a long well-integrated finish. Drinking well now but will reward further keeping. (SW)

ITALY PODERI COLLA TENUTE RONCAGLIE BARBARESCO 2012, PIEDMONT ($47)

Dark red, tiled rim. Ripe cherry, tobacco, tar and spices on the nose. Soft attack,

full-bodied, the firm to very firm tannic backbone has a fine graininess. Slightly bitter finish. Great potential. (GBQc) SAN FELICE IL GRIGIO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013, TUSCANY ($49)

An impressive Chianti Classico with a bouquet of violets, leather, cherry, raspberry, tobacco and undergrowth. Concentrated with elevated acidity and refined tannins. Drink until 2024. (ES) TENUTA SETTE PONTI ORENO 2014, TOSCANA ($77)

Dark ruby. Elegant but shy nose of pure red fruits with a nice floral touch.

Texture is soft and supple, its firm core reveals itself in the firm mid-palate highlighted by a strong line of acidity, especially in the finish. (GBQc) G.D. VAJRA BAROLO BRICCO DELLE VIOLE 2011, PIEDMONT ($90)

Incredibly fresh, vibrant and expressive with complex aromas of red fruits, roses and liquorice with cherry, blackberry, spice and mineral flavours, intense and structured yet elegant and graceful with finesse and multiple layers, finishing with a minerally, lingering and long aftertaste. Even the most discerning wine lovers should make room in their cellar for this. (GB) QUINTARELLI ROSSO CA’DEL MERLO 2009, VENETO IGT ($112)

Yes, it is Quintarelli. Yes, it is expensive.

Yes, it is entirely delicious! Simply put, it blends 8 grapes that were aged for 7 years in old wood, creating a concentrated red full of dried fruit flavours, accented by savoury and spicy notes. Drinking well know, but can still cellar for many years to come. (ES)

ALDO CONTERNO CICALA 2012, BAROLO BUSSIA, PIEDMONT ($181)

Seductive nose of red fruits, floral and oaky hints. Very elegant in the mouth, generously fruity, very fine dry tannins.

Already approachable. (GBQc)

of red fruits and flowers, luxurious oak.

Thick and very smooth texture, thanks to well-controlled acidity. Tannins are very finely grained with a silky feel. Finish is expressive, aromatic and intense.

Already great, it holds a lot of potential over many years. (GBQc)

ALDO CONTERNO COLONNELLO 2012, BAROLO BUSSIA, PIEDMONT ($181)

Mostly floral and delicately oaky with hints of tar on the nose. Tight on the palate, the tannins seem delicate and silky at first but they reveal their strength in the very firm and impressively long, dry finish. (GBQc) ALDO CONTERNO ROMIRASCO 2012, BAROLO BUSSIA, PIEDMONT ($261)

Garnet, brick red rim. Beautiful nose, complex and very elegant featuring a fair dose of oak. Powerful, very tight and firm, finely grained tannins support a ripe, fruity mid-palate. The gripping finish will need time to soften up. (GBQc)

RECOMMENDED FRANCE CHÂTEAU TOUR DE PEZ 2008, BORDEAUX ($45)

A 10-year-old claret that needs another 5 years at least in the cellar.

Dense purple colour with a spicy, cedar, tobacco and currant nose.

Medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted plum and blackcurrant flavours; firmly structured and still youthful. (TA)

ALDO CONTERNO GRANBUSSIA RISERVA 2006, BAROLO BUSSIA, PIEDMONT ($500)

Made only in the best years from the oldest vines of its own vineyards Romirasco (70%), Colonnello and Cicala (15% each). Garnet with a brick red contour, it exhumes discreet notes of dried fruits and tar covered by delicate hints of oak.

There is an exceptional finesse and purity in the flavours, yet the seamless tannins are firm and powerful, giving elegance and strength to the mid-palate and finish.

Obvious aging potential. (GBQc)

NEW ZEALAND RIPPON PINOT NOIR MATURE VINE 2011, LAKE WANAKA, CENTRAL OTAGO ($60)

Such great focus and balance between elegance, penetrating flavours and underlying structure. Loads of juicy black cherry, plum, liquorice and spice. Plush texture, firm backbone, slightly chalky and a deliciously long, lingering, fresh and lively finish. Hard to stop drinking. An incredibly versatile food wine. (GB)

UNITED STATES INGLENOOK RUBICON 2012, NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($263)

Very dark colour. Classy, complex nose

ITALY LA GERLA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2012, TUSCANY ($61)

Mature ruby colour suggests some maturity but this is still a baby. A nose of dried cherries and oak spice with truffle notes; medium-bodied, dry, quite sweet, cherry and plum flavours. Well-balanced and corseted with tannins. (TA)

AFTER DINNER XAVIER MUSCAT BEAUMES DE VENISE 2015, RHÔNE, FRANCE ($17/375 ML)

A delightful half-bottle of exotic sweetness. Almost water white in colour with a bouquet of orange and honeysuckle; full-bodied, intense, mouth-filling, perfumed, honey and orange flavours. (TA) EL MAESTRO SIERRA FINO SHERRY, JEREZ, SPAIN ($17)

Pungent citrus, chamomile and nutty notes with a slightly bracing edge, enticing, finishing dry, intense, salty and saliva inducing. Go with the typical matches of

Iberico ham, Marcona almonds, olives, Manchego cheese and the like, but also try with sashimi. (GB) ALVEAR CREAM SHERRY, MONTILLAMORILES, SPAIN ($17)

Deep amber colour. Nutty, dried fig nose. Full-bodied, dry, rich, spicy fig and nut flavours. Good intensity on the palate and great length, Amazing value for the price. (TA) TAYLOR FLADGATE LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE 2012, PORTO, PORTUGAL ($18)

Deep ruby, purple rim. Ripe and sweet black fruits, spicy oak, a little earthiness and dark chocolate notes. Sweet fruity taste, velvety and warm in the mid-palate. The soft finish is very long.

LBVs are not meant for aging, so it is ready to drink. (GBQc) NIEPOORT LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE 2012, CIMA CORGA, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($24/375 ML)

Late Bottled Vintage, or LBV, is the most popular premium Port style in both England and Canada, representing 1 in 5 purchases of Port in the UK and over a 1/4 of all Port enjoyed by Canadians.

This one is smooth, with a finely rustic grippy edge, this savoury/spirited LBV is from 70+ year old vines in three vineyards in the Cima Corgo. Foot trodden in concrete lagares and after a cool winter in the Douro, this was transferred to Vila Nova de Gaia where it spent the next 3 to 4 years in large wooden vats. Spirited plum, blackberry, boysenberry, youthful violets firmly ringed with fine, gritty tannins, lingering with a crushed, stony dust. This has presence and intent to stand up to the deepest chocolate torte or most potent blue while remaining nonchalant and effortless. Well done. (TR) CHATEAU MEGYER 2011, TOKAJI DRY SZAMORODNI, TOKAJI BORKÜLÖNLEGESSÉG, HUNGARY ($45/500 ML)

The Megyer estate was classified as “First Growth” in 1772 by Royal decree.

Here igneous and sedimentary soils, and exposed southwest facing slopes house this Furmint/Harslevelu Szamorodni, a traditional style for Tokaj. The word Szamorodni is Polish for “as comes off the vine,” and refers to healthy, shrivAPRIL 2018 63

BUYING GUIDE elled and Botrytized grapes all being harvested and fermented together, at the end of harvest. Depending on the sugar level, it is made into either Száraz (Dry) or Édes (Sweet) Szamorodni. This dry one feels its botrytis earthiness, but predominantly apparent is the biological aging affect from the veil of flor and 5 years in 220 L barrels, just like non-oxidative wines from Jerez and Jura (this wine tilts towards the latter’s vin jaune).

An amazing freshness throughout, with a swing of alluring rancio Botrytis. White honey, honeycomb, brown butter, salted pine nuts, dried quince, white pepper and ample salty minerality throughout this intriguing wine, one that changes with every sip and every day open. Exceptional. (TR) QUINTA DAS CARVALHAS 20-YEAROLD TAWNY PORT, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($64)

Ruby-amber in colour with a nose of dried cherries and vanilla oak with sweet toffee notes. Full-bodied with tempered sweetness; richly extracted plum and caramel flavours with balancing acidity and great length. (TA) FONSECA VINTAGE PORT 2009, PORTUGAL ($59)

Incredible value! I remember trying this Port at the winery back in 2012, just before being released and was blown away by the quality. Big, rich and full-bodied, the ’09 Fonseca possesses a saturated colour and a bouquet of crème de cassis, plums, raisins, spice, violets, dark cherries and earth. There is a concentrated palate, intense tannic structure and a long finish, which equates to 30+ years of longevity. (ES) 64 @ QUENCH_MAG

BEER SAWDUST BREWING CO. LITTLE NORWAY, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)

This pale lager from Sawdust City Brewing Co. in Ontario’s cottage country is perfect to crack on the first sunny spring day. It’s light-bodied and refreshing, with a nicely balanced hop and malt profile. At first sniff, you’ll get the bready centre of a fresh baguette with some light grassy hop aromas. On the palate, there’s floral hops and bread with a crisp, clean finish. (TL) COWBELL BREWING DOC PERDUE’S BOXING BRUIN IPA, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)

Cowbell Brewing opened in sleepy Blyth, Ontario, with a restaurant and a state of the art carbon-neutral brewhouse.

There are plans to add an amphitheatre for outdoor concerts and a working farm.

Their brews are cheekily named after local legends, so Boxing Bruin IPA is a tribute to a rescue bear named Bruin kept by a vet in the 1800s. The two would put on impromptu boxing matches at the office(!).

This IPA has big juicy tropical fruit aromas like mango juice and pineapple, with a bold hop bitterness on the sip and prickly, palate-cleansing carbonation. (TL) MUSKOKA BREWERY LEGENDARY ODDITY, ONTARIO ($4/473 ML)

A sign that spring is on the horizon is the appearance of Muskoka Brewery’s Legendary Oddity, a seasonal release, on store shelves. The Belgian-style strong ale is seasoned with heather tips, juniper berries and orange peel, adding a touch of pine and fruit to the aroma. The Belgian yeast shines through, layering in more fruit complexity, and there’s a building

bitterness on the palate. If you like this beer, try to get your hands on Legendary Oddity Gin, the spirit is seasoned with the same botanicals, as well as hops. (TL) COAST MOUNTAIN BREWING TREELINE LAGER, WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($13/6-PACK)

Pale blond with pleasant, slightly yeasty, citrus and malty aromas. Medium weight with a touch of sweet citrus fruit, mild malty flavour and an agreeable, refreshingly light bitterness on the finish. (SW) BOMBER BREWING PALE ALE, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($12/6-PACK)

The Bomber Brewing story began as a real-life Canadian fairy tale, when a trio of friends who loved beer and played hockey together on a team called The Bombers decided to start a brewery. An American-style pale ale, it pours medium gold, with lots of tiny bubbles and persistent lacing along the glass. The nose is citrusy with notes of lemon and orange, with white bread and orange mingling on the sip. The bitterness is nice and gentle for this style of brew, with a pale malt backbone and dry finish, a great beer to buy a sixer of. (TL) CHARLIE WELLS IPA, ENGLAND ($3/500 ML)

Charlie Wells was founded in 1876 and is an independent, family-run brewery and pub chain operating in England. If you’re not a fan of the bitterness of American IPAs, you might like this Old World malt IPA. It pours a clear, deep amber with aromas of currant jam, caramel and wet leaves. On the palate, look for notes of caramelized malt and a subdued, earthy bitterness. A medium body and clean profile make this a great choice for an afternoon drinking session. (TL)

LOST CRAFT BREWING CO REVIVALE, ONTARIO ($3/500 ML)

This Kolsch-style brew from Toronto’s Lost Craft Brewing took the top honour, Best of Show, at the 2017 Ontario Brewing Awards. Pouring a bright, shiny gold with lively bubbles dancing in the glass, there are notes of lemon, water crackers and a hint of apple, which come through on the sip. It’s a very delicate, light-bodied brew with some lingering dryness on the palate. (TL) COAST MOUNTAIN BREWING SUNBREAK SAISON UNFILTERED, WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($8)

Straw coloured with a thick persistent head, floral and fresh hoppy scents and a subtle nutty overtone. Rich, dried citrus fruit and contrasting, slightly sour yeasty flavour lead into agreeable nutty and hoppy bitterness on the finish. (SW) BROWARY KZIAZECE TYSKIE GRONIE, POLAND ($3/500 ML)

Made with 2 varieties of Polish hops, Lubelski and Marynka, this medium weight brew shows appealing herbal hoppy aromas with malty and lightly yeasty overtones. Flavours of citrus and lightly sweet malt finish with an agreeable touch of bitterness. Comparable to many Euro lagers but with a bit more character. (SW) SCHNEIDER WEISSE, GERMANY ($3/500 ML)

This is a classic example of a Bavarian wheat beer. It’s amber-hued and cloudy with notes of banana, cloves and toasty bread. The mouthfeel is creamy thanks to the wheat with tingling carbonation. Pro tip: wheat beers are best imbibed with a huge fluffy white head. Pour the beer on a 45-degree angle down the side of a tall glass and then tilt the bottle straight down centre of the glass to tease up the foam. Leave some liquid in the bottle, then give it a swirl to rouse the yeast at the bottom and top up the brew. (TL) THORNBURY VILLAGE BREWERY DAM DARK LAGER, ONTARIO ($3/500 ML)

Try reaching for a dark lager this spring, they’re toasty and roasty but still easy-drinking and refreshing. Dam Dark Lager from Thornbury Village Brewery pours a deep brown with reddish highlights with rich aromas of dark caramel, roasted malt and a wisp of

grassy hops. On the palate are flavours of milk chocolate and dark fruit with a dry, very light bitterness. (TL) LEFT FIELD BREWERY BANG BANG DRY HOPPED SOUR, ONTARIO ($5/355 ML)

Toronto’s Left Field Brewery has been knocking it out of the park with their growing line up of innovative, well-crafted brews. And beer lovers are noticing: on weekends, crowds line up outside of the brewery to get a spot in their tasting room.

Bang Bang is dry hopped with Cascade, Simcoe and Citra hops that impart fresh tropical fruit notes into the aroma. This ale drinks like a sour kid without the sweetness, it’s super bubbly and has a pleasingly tart finish. It’s a lovely palate cleanser for a sunny day and pairs well with avocado toast smothered in goat cheese. (TL) TOOTH AND NAIL TENACITY PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)

Tenacity is an American-style pale ale crafted by Tooth & Nail Brewing Co. in Ottawa. There are notes of Shreddies cereal and a bouquet of fruit like orange, peach and lemon on the nose. On the palate, there’s sweet, grainy cereal and citrus flavours, with a building bitterness mid-palate that lingers in the finish. Pair it with a strong, aged cheddar; the beer’s high carbonation and creamy body will cleanse the palate after every rich bite and the cheddar’s flavour is strong enough to stand up to the bitterness of the ale. (TL) COAST MOUNTAIN BREWING WOODNUTT BROWN UNFILTERED, WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($8)

Deep reddish brown colour with a thick, persistent creamy head and warm, nutty and dark chocolate aromas. Sweet cherry and chocolate flavours emerge on the palate delivered in a smoothly rounded texture, finishing with creamy caramel and nutty, slightly bitter finish. An excellent satisfying brew. (SW) HOYNE BREWING CO. PILSENER, VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($7/650 ML)

Pronounced fresh hoppy scent with yeasty and malty aromas. Lively citrus, malty and creamy roundness emerging on the palate. Finishes with refreshing fruity malt, nutty dryness and light hoppy bitterness. (SW)

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AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

ALL THOSE BUBBLES Bubbly. Fizz. Champers. Whatever you happen to call the self-appointed beverage of celebration, know this: sparkling wine sales around the world are exploding.

One in ten bottles of wine sold globally now has bubbles — a statistic driven, no doubt, by the phenomenal success of Prosecco and the equally impressive sales curve of Spanish Cava.

In North America last year, sales of Champagne — it should be tautological by now to have to describe it as “French Champagne” — were up by 10 percent. The only explanation is that the world must be in party mode. (Conversely, in Britain, Champagne sales were down by nine percent last year — probably because the British have nothing to celebrate.)

The world-wide love affair with bubbles has inspired Canadian producers to start making sparkling wines on an unprecedented scale.

Some winemakers here follow the traditional Champagne process of secondary fermentation in the bottle, which requires a process called riddling to remove the dead yeast cells. This is either done by hand or mechanically. Others employ the less costly cuvée close or Charmat method by which the secondary fermentation is carried out in large stainless-steel tanks and the wine is then drawn off into the bottle under pressure to preserve the mousse.

Why, I wonder, has it taken so long for Canadian wineries to jump on this jovial bandwagon? After all, our wine producing regions share a climate that is ideally suited for the production of sparkling wines.

The base wine for champagne and other sparklers has to be high in acidity. This means that the grapes destined for sparkling wine are harvested earlier than those that are to be fermented into still table wines. With their high acidity and low sugar levels, these early-picked grapes produce a wine that would make your face pucker — but that’s what you want as the base wine for sparklers.

Most producers of bubblies look for between 17 and 19 percent brix levels (sugar readings) at harvest, as opposed to 22 to 24 percent brix needed for dry table wines.

66 @ QUENCH_MAG

Given the vagaries of the Canadian weather in the fall, growers are happy to get their grape harvest safely in for sparkling wines rather than take the gamble of leaving the bunches to hang on the vine into October for extra ripeness.

It’s difficult to track the number of wineries in Canada that currently produce sparkling wine because the four wine growing regions in the country use different figures and there’s little research available about Quebec’s production.

What I could gather from surfing the net is that some 100 wineries in British Columbia now make sparkling wines.

In Ontario, according to the VQA’s annual report for 2017, wineries made 104 sparkling products — an increase of 85 percent over the previous year. The number of wineries producing these wines rose from 47 in 2013 to 68 this year. Look for more in vintages to come.

10 of Nova Scotia’s 20 wineries currently make sparkling wines (and some of the best in the country — witness Benjamin Bridge, Blomidon Estate, Grand Pré, Lightfoot & Wolfville and L’Acadie Vineyards).

At my count, 16 Quebec wineries are currently making sparkling wines.

Looking at the category as a whole, there are some interesting outliers — like the production of sparkling Icewines (a world first for Canada) led by Inniskillin and Magnotta. Then there is the use of Icewine as the dosage (the sweetening wine) for Peller Estates Ice Cuvée Sparkling White and Rosé.

So you can expect to see more Canadian sparkling wine on store racks — and with a bit of luck they might just knock Pinot Grigio off its undeserved pedestal. (Ok, so sue me — I’m not a great fan of Pinot Grigio.) × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

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HAVE WE MET?

ARMAGNAC DE MONTAL VSOP “This is delightfully delicate as far as Armagnac goes.

From an excellent producer that’s been around since the 17th century, it’s juicy and redolent of sweet stone fruit, apple, orange peel and brown sugar, with penetrating warmth underscored by baking spices and brown butter.”

ARMAGNAC IN FOLDER

Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail

MEET THE FAMILY

Pictured above 1987, XO, Hors d’Age, 1997 and VS. Also available Blanche d’Armagnac and older vintages starting from 1893. Good taste runs in the family.

Armagnac de Montal

www.mcowines.com

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