XAD
NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.
AD TO COME MONDAY “ �
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith
QU
JANUARY/ FEBRUARY 2019 10
E
A TASTE OF DIVINE CRAIG PINHEY
A quality revolution is taking over the German sparkling scene. See who is leading the march.
NCH 20
THE OTHER KING
MICHAELA MORRIS
A light is shinning on Barbaresco and it’s about time.
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO How about a little ceviche in your cocktail?
8 | BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
12 | SUB GI TIM PAWSEY The “new and improved” BC wine map is rapidly taking shape.
16 | ASSIGNMENT: RENDEZVOUS WITH CARLOS. TOD STEWART
I just got back from France. What wine-producing country should I go to next?
The changing path of Spain’s Bodega Motecillo.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
It’s cold now, but a little sunshine in the kitchen will help.
Weed is now legal, but what does that mean for beer.
26 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER So long Champagne Salon. It’s been good to know you. JOIN US IN THE CONVERSATION BY SUBSCRIBING NOW AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/SUBSCRIBE-PRINT/
23 | IT’S SUMMER SOMEWHERE DUNCAN HOLMES
on twitter: @quench_mag instagram.com/quenchmagazine facebook.com/quenchmag youtube.com/c/quenchmagazine quenchmagazine.tumblr.com for recent back issues: back.quench.me JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Robin LeBlanc, Peter Rockwell, Christine Sismondo CONTRIBUTORS
Craig Pinhey, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Duncan Holmes
AFTER 25 YEARS IN THE WINE INDUSTRY AS A RETAILER, WRITER, CONSULTANT, JUDGE AND SPEAKER, MANY PEOPLE HAVE ASKED WHY I’VE DECIDED TO START TAKING CLASSES THROUGH THE WINE & SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST (WSET), OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE GLOBAL STANDARD FOR WINE EDUCATION.
I’ve travelled to most major — and many minor — wine-producing regions, visited thousands of wineries, and spoken and tasted with an even greater number of winemakers and viticulturalists. The more I educate myself, the more I realize how much more there is left to learn and how little I actually do know. Part of what I love about wine is knowing that there is always something new to learn. 2018 marked a year of firsts. I visited both China and Japan for the first times. I judged my first Asian wine competition. I was the “nama jin” (aka rookie) judge at my first sake competition, and I decided to formalize my wine education to become a certified WSET instructor. Our team of writers at Quench are among the most travelled and experienced in the industry. They travel the world, not so you don’t have to, but to pique your interest to try something new. Or maybe to visit a wine region or culinary destination to which you’ve never been. The beauty of food and wine is in the diversity and discovery. Use our writers’ experiences to guide yours. Don’t get stuck in the “I only drink Bordeaux”, “Anything but Chardonnay”, “I don’t eat lamb” or any other rut. Strive to seek out something new based on the descriptions and experiences of our writers. The joy of discovery is evident through their words. Don’t deny yourself the enduring pleasure of learning. Never say no to tasting something new. Keep an open mind and palate when tasting, and avoid generalizing when it comes to both wine and food. Remember that our palates change over time, so something that may not have been to your taste in the past may turn out to be your new favourite today. Let us at Quench help make 2019 your year of firsts.
4 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
TASTERS
Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Sean Wood, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Tim Pawsey, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Jonathan Smithe CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Elvis Deane COPY DESK
Holland Gidney, Emma Fucci
CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES PRODUCTION WebFree, ww+Labs,
Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY
Push/Stop, Take the Next Shot Quench, Food and Drink Magazine, (founded in 1972) is a registered trademark of Kylix Media. It is published 8 times a year: (Janauary/February, March/April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, Best of 2019) and distributes over 50,000 copies across North America.
QUENCH MAGAZINE AND QUENCH DIGITAL ARE PUBLISHED BY KYLIX MEDIA PUBLISHER
Pierre Chanzonkov pc@quench.me EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me CFO
Lucy Rodrigues cfo@quench.me ACCOUNTS
Marilyn Barter accounts@quench.me CIRCULATION
circ@quench.me
ADVERTISING Sales Associate
Sylvie Bouchard sales@quench.me
5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 500, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6 Tel: 514.481.6606 Fax: 514.416.1620 SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada: $42.99 per year, $69.99 per 2 years; USA: $62.99 per year; Other: $89.99 per year. Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. ©2019 Kylix Media Inc. ISSN 2293-412X. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Printed in Canada on 10% POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED FIBRES.
XAD PEACHES IN FOLDER Ca n ned Peaches
Welcome to the fresh world of canned peaches! Peach compote: - fully preserves the freshness of the fruit - improves the nutritional efficiency of vitamins C and A - can be relished all year round - is easy to use, in numerous ways - contains no preservatives or GMOs
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
TIGER’S MILK Thanks to a certain gin company, which famously marketed its delicious, easy-drinking and gorgeously-packaged gin as being “Not For Everyone,” that phrase has lost a little of its meaning. That’s a shame, since there are certain things that fit that description perfectly, like, say, eating cricket snacks, worm salt in a Margarita or, possibly best of all, slurping back leche de tigre — the leftover marinade from Peruvian ceviche, translated as “tiger’s milk.” We’ve probably already lost a few squeamish readers with that and further explanations will only alienate more. But the “milk” part of its name refers to the juice’s creamy appearance that results from the raw fish proteins breaking down. Still with me? Good. Because for those of us who aren’t afraid of a little raw fish juice, the sour, spicy, salty, slightly-sweet and umami-rich leche de tigre is an extra-special treat. It’s at least as exciting as the ceviche, itself, possibly even more — practically the grown-up equivalent of licking the wooden spoon after baking. Better yet, we’ve barely even begun to explore its potential as a cocktail ingredient, although a few bartenders, such as Simon Hooper of Toronto’s Rush Lane, are trying to change that. “To me, it’s all about sustainability,” says Hooper, one of the bar’s founding owners. “I just hate waste and, with leche, you’ve got something that you can use that’s packed full of flavour and enzymes, so why wouldn’t you use it?” That speaks to the origin of tiger’s milk, said to have started as a “poor man’s food” that caught on as street vendors became 6 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
more popular in Peru. Fast-forward to the present day, when you’ll find tiger’s milk perfectly garnished and served up in a shot glass as an amuse bouche in Lima’s swankiest restaurants. What’s next? Cocktail bartenders are starting to catch on, too. “It has a really nice, almost creamy texture to it, so when you’re using it, you’re adding so much complexity to the drink,” Hooper says. “Which is especially amazing for anything tomato-based, since it gives it more body, all the while getting extra kick from the citrus and spice.” Although there are people playing around with Tiger Sour type cocktails, Hooper counsels starting out safe and working tiger’s milk into your standard Bloody Mary, Bloody Caesar, Michelada and Sangritas. The latter are those spicy-citrus tequila chasers, for which he also gives us a recipe. “I’ve seen some pretty brutal cocktails over the years, like someone once offered me a clam chowder sour and I was, like, ‘No, I don’t think so. Maybe another time.’” Hooper suggests adding a half-ounce of leche de tigre to a Bloody Mary and playing around with the base spirit. Instead of vodka, have some fun with gin, tequila or mezcal. Other than the really heavy sesame oil versions, almost any ceviche juice will work, but he offers up this personal favourite of his, which makes a great “milk,” absolutely perfect for making a top-notch Sangrita “de Tigre.”
SANGRITA DE TIGRE
To get the leche, you have to make Simon Hooper’s ceviche first:
1/2 oz Walter Caesar Mix 1/2 oz leche de tigre* 4 dashes habanero sauce
Mix ingredients together and serve straight up in a shot glass, along with a good shot of sipping tequila or mezcal. Enjoy the pairing in small sips, alternating between the two — tequila first, Sangrita next.
CEVICHE
250 125 28 28 22 1 10 3 1 1/2 2 1
g swordfish, chopped g Hokkaido bay scallops, chopped g cucumber, peeled and cubed g Granny Smith apple, finely cubed g shallots, finely cubed garlic clove, finely chopped g cilantro, julienned oz fresh lime juice oz fresh orange juice tsp salty Paloma fiesta (grapefruit salt) tsp rocoto (Peruvian hot sauce) tbsp agave syrup
Mix all ingredients well, cover and refrigerate for an hour. Strain, but keep the liquid. That’s the leche de tigre! × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
NEW
PREMIUM SAKE
XAD
SAKE IN FOLDER
Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai. Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and produced by a famous and highly respected japanese sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.
BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
When you said “France,” did you mean all of it? While I get you wanting to add a few more stamps to your passport, the French do hold the deeds to some of the oldest, not to mention most beautiful, real estate in the wine world. So if you haven’t basked in the glory of a châteaux of Bordeaux’s Medoc, gazed upon Saint-Émilion from the Place du Clocher, walked the underground cellars in Champagne, drove Burgundy’s Route des Grands Crus or spent even a second in the Loire, the Rhône and Alsace, you’ve got a lot more to see. Given France the grand tour? Your next trip needs to be to Italy. With one hand on my well-worn copy of The World Atlas of Wine, I’ll swear that no other culture combines food, wine and wine tourism like the Italians. Your first stop should be the northern region of Veneto, the home of Valpolicella, Soave, most of Prosecco, the wine city of Verona and a little town where the Bellini was invented called Venice. Three hours away is Piedmont, which offers some of the most majestic vineyard views on Earth. Central Italy has Tuscany, Umbria and Marche, and heading south you’ll marvel at the vineyards of Campania and Puglia. It’s a country that, as a wine lover, is everything you’ll ever hope it will be. While I could pledge my love for the Old World for paragraphs (forgive the miss, Spain and Germany), the New World offers more than its fair share of scenic wonders. If California arguably invented the idea that wineries could be tourist attractions, its coastal neighbours in Oregon and Washington have run with the idea. Closer to home, vintners in BC, Ontario and Nova Scotia have each created their own winery-based experiences that will make you proud to be a Canadian wine drinker. If your vacation budget can cover some major time in the air, I can’t say enough about investing in a journey to New Zealand. Though Australia has its charms, when you land in New Zealand wine country you’ll be quick to appreciate how appealingly different its liquor landscape is. A journey to South Africa will give you a similar experience. I’m not just talking about the wine; geographically these countries look like no other. Who’d I miss? Argentina, Chile, Portugal, Croatia? I’ve left a piece of my heart in too many wine regions to mention. In the end, my advice is that anywhere wine is made is more than worth your time. × 8 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
I just got back from France. What wine-producing country should I go to next?
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
HIGH EXPECTATIONS ANOTHER YEAR, ANOTHER THOUGHT EXPERIMENT: WHAT WILL BE SOME OF THE EMERGING TRENDS IN THE BEER INDUSTRY? Will there be a resurgence of a particularly
overlooked style? Will some hot, flashy new sour hit the market? The mind reels. But one trend that does seem rather unavoidable for the future is the beer world’s budding relationship with the cannabis industry. That’s right, cannabis, also known as marijuana, weed, the devil’s lettuce, Mary Jane, and of course reefer, has been captivating the interest of drinks companies long before legalization throughout Canada in October 17th of last year. For instance, Molson-Coors announced that it would be releasing a cannabis-infused beer in the next year. And one of the most notable recent deals is from Constellation Brands, renowned drinks producers and marketers that represent beer brands such as Corona, Modelo, and Ballast Point. The drinks giant took the risk of investing in cannabis producers Canopy Growth in 2017 and has since dropped billions into them, betting on what may turn out to be a very prosperous future. However, on a fairly smaller scale, craft breweries are also smelling the distinctive smoke of opportunity coming from the cannabis industry and seeing where they might fit in. To be honest, everything seems very up in the air right now, mostly filled with announcements of potential plans. Popular Canadian brewery Steam Whistle told BNN Bloomberg in November that they were “engaged in active discussions” with
cannabis producers throughout the country for a potential investment or joint venture opportunity. Many breweries are currently doing the same, trying to figure out what form a relationship with cannabis may take. Others are a bit more certain and feel that the wave of the future is cannabis beer, which at the moment has a loose definition to it. Some breweries might mean a beer that incorporates the cannabis plant in the grains but with all the psychoactive properties removed. Others, like Province Brands, who partnered with Toronto-based Lost Craft Beer among others, mean to make a non-alcoholic beer brewed entirely with cannabis and no grains. Others also include a beer with THC/CBD infused into the drink. Some drinks seem to go from interesting and curious to something more in line with a cannabis-infused carbonated water, but all might at least may have a good round of sales when released. If pressed for a prediction on where this will all go, I’m afraid it’s too early to tell at the moment. Right now, we have a bold new industry with a guaranteed chance of growth and so many people are smelling the money and letting their early adopter enthusiasm beat out the need for a solid plan. While I do see amazing potential in beer and cannabis pairings, specially branded strains for breweries, and especially THC/CBD-infused non-beer drinks, cannabis’ role in beer remains hazy. We’ll just have to pause, have a beer or maybe light a joint, and see where the trip takes us. × JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 9
BRAUNEWELL
A TASTE OF DIVINE by Craig Pinhey GERMAN WINE CONSUMERS DRINK A LOT OF SEKT, GERMAN SPARKLING WINE, BUT MOST OF IT IS INEXPENSIVE, DRY TO OFF-DRY BUBBLY. But it can be confusing. You see, Deutscher
Sekt can be made from all local grapes or from a blend of domestic and foreign grapes, or even 100 percent foreign-base wine. As an example, you’ve probably all had a glass of Henkell Trocken. But there is a significant amount of quality, bottle-fermented sparkling wine being made in Germany from local grapes. Officially called Winzersekt or Qualitätsschaumwein, the grapes have to come from the winery’s own vineyards — although they can farm out production (riddling, disgorging, bottling, et cetera). Many refer to it simply as Schaumwein, with schau meaning “show” and schaum translating as “foam” or “froth.” For Sekt producers, 2018 was a strange vintage. It was very hot and dry, resulting in a historic early harvest, taking place in August for the first time ever. They were harvesting at Raumland during our visit to their estate in Flörsheim-Deidesheim, in Rheinhessen. Raumland is referred to by some as “The God of Sekt.” Indeed, their 2012 NV Brut was recently named the best Riesling Sekt in Germany. The winery is relatively small, producing around 50,000 litres from 10 hectares of estate vineyards, 100 percent organic since 1990. 10 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
Once you’ve tasted God’s wines, one wonders how the other Sekthäuser compare. On a visit to Strauch, a family-run operation in nearby Osthofen, it was clear that quality Schaumwein is not just the property of the Gods. In 2011, Isabel Strauch-Weissbach and her husband, Tim Weissbach, took over her parents Sekthaus. They produce a range of sparkling wines, making approximately 250,000 to 300,000 bottles per year — including those for other wineries — from a range of grapes, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sylvaner, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Their style is more straightforward and less complex (thus less expensive) than Raumland’s. Going through the region tasting these top-level traditional method sparkling wines showed that Germany makes bubbly at the highest level, equal to top versions from the rest of the world, and available at fair prices. The variety is impressive, owing to different philosophies regarding the use of malolactic fermentation with some wines and not others, and using Riesling at 100 percent or blending it with Pinot family grapes. There is no question that some producers are making wines from Champagne varieties that taste just like Champagne.
RAUMLAND TRADITION RIESLING BRUT 2012 ($26)
Judged Germany’s best Riesling Sekt this year. A fresh and fruity bubbly but with nice, toasty notes. A great example of Champagne-like Schaumwein at a great price. Uses malolactic for creaminess and an early pick for acidity. 6 g/l sugar. Terrific value. RAUMLAND CUVÉE KATHARINA BRUT NATURE 2013 ($30)
Judged best Burgundy grape Sekt in Germany this year. A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with zero dosage. Fresh and crisp in style, even with full malolactic. Partially fermented in old and new oak barrels. Incredible value. STRAUCH RIESLING EXTRA BRUT 40 MONATE 2012 ($30)
A creamy bubbly, with lots of stone-fruit flavours and good length. Even though it’s Riesling, one could mistake it for Champagne. Strauch normally uses malolactic, except in really warm vintages, such as 2018. STREIT GRANDE CUVÉE 2014 ($45)
One of those rich, soft, heavily autolytic sparklers. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, it has great texture and length. They disgorge 500 bottles approximately every 6 months. This bottle was disgorged in October 2017 and tasted in August 2018.
MARIE-LUISE, VOLKER AND KATHARINA RAUMLAND
BARDONG CHARDONNAY BRUT 2014 ($45)
VAUX ROSÉ RÉSERVE 2015 ($40)
A special wine from grapes grown on the 23 ha Mariannenaue vineyard, on an island in the Rhine, 10 km east of Bardong. It has distinct apricot notes and fresh acidity. It’s very elegant. We also tried the 2007 vintage, which had complex notes of dried fruit and nuts, but still had life.
100% Pinot Noir, but from a selection of different clones. Made with 20% malolactic, and 30% aged in old oak. It has an attractive red fruit nose and is a bit toasty, with full texture. A bit creamy, but with firm acidity. Aged 27 months on the lees. VAUX ERBACHER MARCOBRUNN RIESLING 2014 ($60)
BARDONG ERBACHER HONIGBERG RIESLING EXTRA BRUT 2012 ($28)
Bardong only makes single-vineyard, single-grape wines, and this Riesling really shows its heritage. It is very dry, with only 3 g/l dosage, and is very much in the crisp style, with zero malolactic. It spent 6 years on the lees, though, which gives it a light citrus pastry note.
A famous single-vineyard bubbly from Riesling, grown about 5 km west of the winery, close to the river in Hattenheim, on rich, weathered limestone. This is a rich, leesy, developed wine, with nutty character and longer lees aging, and is recommended to be served with slow-cooked meats. It’s lovely and complex. VAUX ASSMANSHÄUSER PINOT NOIR 2014 ($40)
BARDONG ERBACHER HONIGBERG RESERVE BRUT 1998 ($26)
Perhaps it is the fact that they use no malolactic, but this still has a lot of life. Lightly golden in colour, it has pleasant apple aromas and flavours, and is not overly autolytic or oxidative.
Those of us who scoff at sweet, oaky sparkling Shiraz can turn to this fabulous red bubbly for a much more satisfying experience. It’s a dry red (3 g/l) made with long skin contact and no malolactic. It has pure cherry on the nose and palate, tasting super ripe and yet very dry. A uniquely wonderful taste experience.
SOLTER ROSENECK SINGLE VINEYARD RIESLING 2012 ($32)
A warm year so this wine has a roundness you don’t normally expect from Riesling, especially since they use no malolactic. It is fresh, but has a long, tasty finish. Solter’s all-women winemaking team makes bubbly for 50 other wineries in addition to their own.
BRAUNEWELL RIESLING BRUT NV ($20)
This great value bubbly is aged 30 months on the lees. The bottle we tried was disgorged in 2018. It’s a good example of a toasty traditional method bubbly that still has freshness. × JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 11
SUB GI by Tim Pawsey
The “new and improved” BC wine map is rapidly taking shape, as the pace of identifying and formalizing the province’s producing regions with greater specificity increases. The BC Wine Authority has already expanded the list of BC Wine Regions, adding the Thompson Valley, Shuswap, Kootenays and Lillooet to the existing Vancouver Island, Gulf Islands, Fraser Valley, Similkameen Valley, Okanagan Valley regions and all-encompassing “British Columbia” designation.
Perhaps more significant, over the last two years, three areas within one of the larger regions have been delineated and approved as “Sub-GIs” — or Sub-Geographic Indications — namely: Golden Mile Bench (south of Oliver), Okanagan Falls and, most recently, the Naramata Bench. Still in process at the time of writing, but widely expected to be confirmed soon, is Skaha Bluffs, a total area of 365 hectares with 75 hectares of vineyards a few hundred metres south of Penticton. Less apparent to the casual observer is the exhaustive, fact-finding process that must be undertaken to successfully identify and ultimately establish each of these areas. It’s an exercise that, most agree, is critical to the continued evolution and ongoing elevation of the BC wine industry. A key player, consultant and soil specialist, Scott Smith has been diligently documenting and analyzing soils throughout BC, though mainly with emphasis on the Okanagan Valley. His reports form the backbone of the recommendations that inform those who vote on proposals for new regions and Sub-GIs. Hailed as a leading authority on the Okanagan Valley, Smith says it’s important to understand the elements of terroir within the valley and elsewhere, especially in relation to what he refers to as the “glacial landscape,” which is comprised of transported sediments. Along with the climate and specifics surrounding the growing season, it’s the landscape that drives the fundamentals of any given terroir — or the basis for a Sub-Geographic Indication. Like others, Smith identifies the Okanagan’s alluvial fans as critical to viticulture, not only for their soil and rock composition but also for the air movement they create. However, he also notes that crucial to successfully establishing Sub-GIs is “an element of pragmatism.” While there have been a few voices of dissent, the voting results so far have shown, in every instance, that the overwhelming majority of wineries and vineyard owners in the given areas were in favour. In fact, a Sub-GI initiative must pass by at least a two-thirds majority in order for it to go forward for government approval. 12 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
Usually, though not always, objections have revolved around the specifics of proposed boundaries. In the case of Golden Mile Bench, there were exclusions based on elevation, both at higher and lower levels. However, in that instance, there were clear distinctions between soil types on the bench lands surrounding the alluvial fans, which underpinned the location of the perimeter, and those below it. The Okanagan Falls Sub-GI extends south from the village of Okanagan Falls to the northern shore of Vaseux Lake. It includes “predominantly undulating glaciofluvial sands and gravels along the east side of the Okanagan Valley.” The western boundary is mainly consistent with the route taken by Highway 97, which also marks the limit of suitable vineyard lands, as a flood plain lies to the west side. For Naramata Bench, there were a few objections raised in regards to perceptions of more “red tape” and regulating the use of the geographic term. That control, however, is very much intended to protect it from misuse, including by anyone from outside the area. While the leadup to the Naramata vote saw some spirited opposition, in the final tally the initiative still passed by a healthy margin of over 80 percent. As to why the ongoing development of Sub-GIs has the industry fired up, part of the answer lies in what the process can ultimately establish. The reports and proposals are detail driven and in depth, and add up to a truly thorough evaluation that’s much more than a snapshot. They focus not only on all aspects of terroir and viticulture but also present a detailed summary of the status quo, including acreages under vine and the preponderance of varieties being farmed. It’s taken generations to identify the best wine-growing regions everywhere else in the world so it should come as no surprise that BC’s is an arduous and time consuming process. However, the string of Sub-GI initiatives has unquestionably injected new energy into the industry in ways that were not on most people’s radar 10 or 20 years ago. The confirmation of this
“EVEN THOUGH IT STILL FEELS LIKE THE EARLY STAGES, IN THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET — JUST A FEW YEARS AGO — WE WERE THE NEW KID THAT NO ONE WANTED TO TALK TO. AND NOW WE’RE THE NEW KID THAT EVERYONE WANTS TO TALK TO.” JOHN SKINNER (SHOWN WITH HIS WIFE TRISH)
initial group seems likely to generate impetus for still more SubGI applications to be brought forward. SOME POSSIBILITIES ARE FAIRLY OBVIOUS. Vancouver
Island’s Cowichan Valley is one. It’s already well under development, spearheaded by Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson. Even though he doesn’t anticipate any opposition, Williamson says it’s still important to reach out to people all over Vancouver Island, in order to build consensus. Here again, soil guru Scott Smith has been busy helping develop a proposal that was to be submitted by the end of 2018. “When we started looking at the boundaries, we wanted to draw them as broad as we could,” says Williamson. “We wanted to make sure that where there is agricultural land suitable, but as yet not under vine, we would draw the boundaries around it. Scott’s research amounts to equal parts geology, equal parts climate. The two combined will be the determining factor of where the boundary is drawn,” he goes on to say.
Williamson sees nothing but the positive in establishing a Cowichan Valley Sub-GI, which he hopes will encourage more people in the region to grow grapes — especially Pinot Noir, which is becoming a Cowichan hallmark thanks to a string of warmer vintages. Williamson suggests, “It’s important to isolate the high-quality parcels that can do well. It will also encourage more cross-pollination between winemakers — including those who have worked internationally and now bring their ideas here. Everyone benefits from that collective knowledge. There’s a lot to be gained from playing in the bigger sandbox. It’s an exciting time...” If the Sub-GIs have matured into adulthood, the province’s nine identified wine regions have moved well beyond infancy, with some strong indications as to what might lie ahead. For instance, the recently declared Thompson Valley area includes the banks of the Thompson River reaching from Chase in the east, Kamloops in the centre and Cache Creek to the south and west. The current growing area, predominantly 500 metres above sea JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 13
BAILLIE GROHMAN PINOT NOIR TERRACES 2017, CRESTON, CENTRAL KOOTENAYS ($27)
Forward notes of red and black cherry with some forest floor and spicy hints before a well-structured palate defined by bright acidity and approachable tannins, followed by a pleasing savoury element and fresh finish. CARSON PINOT NOIR 2016, NARAMATA VINEYARD, NARAMATA BENCH ($49)
From sandy loam over clay loam soils, on a fairly steep, southwest-facing slope. Whole-cluster pressed and aged 11 months in one third new French oak. Lifted aromas of strawberry and red fruits with some earthy hints, followed by a supple, elegant strawberry and cherry palate, wrapped in voluptuous acidity, with fine tannins, spicy undertones and excellent length. CLOS DU SOLEIL ESTATE RESERVE 2014, KEREMEOS, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($59)
A classic Bordeaux blend with varieties vinified and matured separately, aged 15 months in French oak (31% new). Wild red and blackberries on the nose with some earthy notes lead to a juicy, vibrant and layered palate, defined by a streak of savoury underpinned by slate and minerality with blackberry, mulberry and cassis notes, supported by good acidity, an excellent refined tannin structure and a lengthy, schisty finish. EMANDARE PINOT NOIR 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($45)
Fermented and aged in neutral French oak, unfined and unfiltered. More signs of good things to come: very pure fruit expression with lifted red berries, medium-bodied palate with some earthy and forest floor hints and definite mineral streak. FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2016, LILLOOET ($25)
A lighter-bodied Pinot but one that punches well above its weight. Primarily Lillooet estate fruit (74%) with 26% from Vernon’s The Rise Vineyard. Aromas of wild red berries and spice before a well-balanced palate of strawberry and cherry. Good intensity, balanced mouthfeel and silky tannins, through a gently spicy and juicy finish. HARPER’S TRAIL CABERNET FRANC 2016, THADD SPRINGS VINEYARD, KAMLOOPS, THOMPSON VALLEY ($25)
A lively, fruit-forward palate of raspberry, mulberry and mocha notes with a definite mineral streak in the mid-palate. Firm but approachable tannins and a lengthy, schisty ending. Arguably the most impressive red variety from Kamloops so far. HESTER CREEK THE JUDGE 2015, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($50)
From one of the warmest vintages in recent years, made from some of the oldest plantings in the valley. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 2 years in 75% French and 25% American oak. Lifted notes of black and red food announce a plush palate of mulberry, black cherry and vanilla with well-integrated tannins through a solid close. MOON CURSER 2016 SYRAH, EAST OSOYOOS BENCH ($26)
From an excellent vintage, aged in new and used French and Hungarian oak with the majority in neutral barrels. Inky purple in the glass with generous aromas of black fruit. Meaty and spice notes, with hints of leather and tobacco, preceding a plush, mouth-filling palate of cassis, blackberry and anise notes. Supported by well-integrated tannins, well-managed oak and a savoury edge through a lengthy close. NOBLE RIDGE THE ONE 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($40)
A classic blend of 70/30 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is whole-cluster pressed and cool fermented, with 28 months en tirage. A lively stream of fine bubbles and creamy mousse, with notes of brioche and citrus, before a crisp but mouth-filling palate supported by good acidity and a mineral streak through the close. ROAD 13 BLIND CREEK VIOGNIER 2017, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($19)
Vibrant stone-fruit and citrus notes, followed by a lush but clean, focused palate of honey, citrus and orange blossom, with bright acidity and a generous, lingering finish. SINGLETREE SIGGY SIEGERREBE 2017, FRASER VALLEY ($16)
All stainless-steel fermented and estate grown. Aromas of orchard and tropical fruits with mineral hints preface a palate of pear, peach and apple with a slight zesty grapefruit edge, wrapped in juicy acidity through a lengthy, refreshing finish. TIGHTROPE RIESLING 2017, NARAMATA BENCH ($19)
From the lower side of Naramata Road, partially whole-cluster pressed, fermented just off-dry. Upfront honey and orchard fruits followed by a lively, citrus and tropical palate with layers of juicy lemon and lime wrapped in a very good fruit–acid balance with a streak of elegant minerality to close. 14 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
NOAH, LAURA AND ANDREW ETSELL TENDING SINGLETREE'S VINEYARDS
level, is a relatively new shift that has really only become feasible with the onset of milder winters. While perhaps less of a risk, winter kill still represents a threat for some varieties. Harper’s Trail, for one, trialled several red vinifera before deciding which one made the most sense in terms of quality — and which might not be so vulnerable to winter kill as others. In that case, it was Cabernet Franc, which, in the right hands, has turned out to make some impressive wines. Climate change is now a formidable player, with shifting norms the rule rather than the exception. For instance, while the Thompson River growing area is currently concentrated mainly to the east of Kamloops, it’s important to note that in the early 1980s there was at least one producing vineyard of note on the Ashcroft benches, well to the southwest. Pioneering Harry McWatters purchased grapes from the Basque Vineyard to make one of his first Chardonnays before it was wiped out in the devastating freeze of 1985. THE SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY BENCHES ARE ALSO RIPE FOR A SUB-GI, especially as, in the broader context, the cur-
rent Similkameen region encompasses the entire watershed of the Similkameen River Valley, which stretches west beyond Princeton. As yet, there’s also no official action targeting the South Okanagan, although the east Osoyoos benchlands, Black Sage Bench and west Osoyoos benches are all general possibilities that will likely emerge. To put it mildly, BC has been well behind the eight ball when it comes to adopting a system of appellations and sub-appellations now commonplace across the wine world. As BC flexes its export muscle (based on quality not volume), it’s becoming more
apparent that such a system, in harmony with leading wine-producing areas, is a necessity not an option. Painted Rock owner John Skinner — a key mover behind the Skaha Bluffs Sub-GI proposal — sees it this way: “We have to show some conformity by international standards. Even though it still feels like the early stages, in the international market — just a few years ago — we were the new kid that no one wanted to talk to. And now we’re the new kid that everyone wants to talk to.” The Painted Rock owner was one of the first to see the potential in developing relationships from Beijing to Bordeaux. Working with renowned consultant Alain Sutre, Skinner has a strong connection to the latter and now has listings on top wine lists in that city, as well as in London. Skinner has seen the reaction to Canadian wines shift from curiosity to conviction that the Okanagan now ranks as a serious producer. While wine geeks may get excited about an undiscovered region, that’s not enough, he insists. A developed appellation system that “peels away the layers, from Canada to the Okanagan and then specific areas,” says Skinner, “adds up to a wonderful coming of age initiative that’s going to help us refine our messaging to the international community, as well as to local wine consumers.” “For us, Skaha Bench needs to be separate [from Naramata and Okanagan Falls],” he says. “It really does have very specific relevance to what makes it tick, and that’s the lake influence, as well as our unique position. The sun goes down very late where we are, through a ‘V’ in the hills.” Skinner feels strongly that there’s an enormous collective benefit from having that extra line on a label. He says, “It’s all about engaging and respecting the consumer.” × JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 15
COUNTRY: SPAIN. CITY: MADRID. LOCATION: SAN ANTÓN MARKET. DATE: THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2018 TIME: 11:45 PM. ASSIGNMENT: RENDEZVOUS WITH CARLOS. by Tod Stewart
A soft breeze offers little respite from August’s sultry heat. Thursday night and the streets of Madrid are alive. Dinner at La Cocina de San Antón — a fabulous open-air restaurant on the roof of the San Antón Market — wrapped up (deliciously) some time ago. At close to midnight, the crowd is thinning … slightly. I’m hunkered down at the bar with a last glass of silky Montecillo Reserva tinto — the wine that had accompanied my now-past repast. I’m waiting for Carlos, whom I first met in Haro some six years ago. We had hit it off spectacularly then, and had promised to stay in touch upon my leaving.
16 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
Unfortunately, Carlos is one of few words. Worse still, he rarely visits Canada, so his presence over the years has been virtually non-existent. The opportunity to meet up again after such a long absence had me nervously checking my watch. Suddenly, ushered in with a knowing smile and a subtle nod from my bartender, Carlos appears. His bronze hue seems to shimmer, and a subtle but captivatingly familiar scent wafts towards me. Though showing restraint, there’s no denying Carlos is here to offer an intense experience. Carlos touches my lips. My tongue tingles … Now, let’s just stop right there. This is not as hot and heavy as it sounds. Carlos — more properly monikered Carlos 1 — is a brandy de Jerez, a spirit distilled in the Sherry region of Spain and aged using the same famed solera process used to mellow the region’s eponymous liquid claim to fame. Though I partook in more than a few copitas of Spain’s glorious fortified wine, toured the cellars of a legendary sherry bodega and was even introduced to a sherry-based vermouth
(the hottest libation in Spain right now) while “in country,” a merciless word count, and a directive from an equally merciless editor, caused my attention to focus more narrowly on some of the finest red wines found on the Iberian peninsula. Which, as far as I’m concerned, was a very good thing.
cillo estate, named for her family, who is among the sixth generation of a family whose winemaking history dates back to 1772. Who better to ask about the current state of Spanish reds than someone who actually makes the stuff ? I asked what, in her opinion, were some of the most exciting developments in the field of her country’s red wines and, AT A TABLE IN A VAST VINEYARD specifically, those of her own winery, BoSPRAWLING OVER 800 HECTARES, degas Montecillo. with the mountains of the Iberian Sys“In Spain, we have seen a great deal of tem in front of me and an endless sea of development in small and unknown areas ripening grapes as my surroundings, I’m that have been rediscovered and now are in my element. Cool Montecillo Rosado focusing on crafting high-quality wines. 2017 is poured under a shade canopy The rise of certain wines that express a as the sun climbs into a cobalt strato- very special character due to their terroir sphere. Lunch is served: tender white and respectful winemaking techniques. asparagus; rich, mildly piquant chorizo Before this, it was all about Rioja, Ribera and potato stew; and flaky, melt-in-your and Rueda. Now there are a lot of producmouth cod steeped in a vibrant toma- ers from these areas that don’t even beto sauce. The wine, redolent of fresh long to a denomination of origin area, and strawberry, cranberry, watermelon and are making amazing wines. dried herbs, offers the ideal foil. “In Montecillo, we have also been I’m fortunate to be seated with Rocío identifying and selecting vineyards with Osborne, Brand Ambassador for Monte- special characteristics that will make very JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 17
“IN M AND TERIS TION WHE
MERCEDES GARCÍA RUPÉREZ, WINEMAKER AT BODEGAS MONTECILLO
limited production wines that show perfectly the terroir where they come from.” It’s no secret that Spain’s red wines — and, in fact, all of the country’s wines — have been continuously improving. Classic areas like Rioja and Ribiera del Duero continue to produce some of the world’s most coveted wines. Places like Priorat and Toro have, for some time now, been yielding blockbuster reds, some of which have attained cult status. Bierzo and Ribera Sacra are breathing new life into Mencia — an ancient, but until recently overlooked, red grape variety. Regions like La Mancha, Yecla and Jumilla — traditionally known for producing large volumes of largely non-descript bulk wines — are now producing large volumes of remarkably good tintos, some of which represent the world’s best bargains. All of this is largely the result of an influx of know-how and technology, as well as constant improvements in vineyard management and a willingness to try new things. Even if that means, in some cases, looking to the past. Osborne notes 18 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
that even established Rioja producers like Montecillo are always experimenting. “For us, there have been many changes,” she explains. “In the past, we used to craft wines only from Tempranillo. Now we are using all four of the varietals allowed by the Rioja region — Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Our vineyard manager has worked very hard to get the best of these varietals, including the development of a new software program that can track and help control the development of grapes of the different vineyards we source from, which helps to enhance the quality of the fruit.” Though the regulations governing which red grape varieties can be planted in the vineyards of Rioja restrict them to the four mentioned by Osborne (Sauvignon Blanc has recently been permitted for the region’s white wines), those four seem to offer almost limitless possibilities to those producing regional red wines. Tasting the 2012 Montecillo Edición clearly shows the new faces of Rioja’s red
wines, especially the nuanced 22 Barricas 2010. Ripe, spice aromas of rich black fruit, menthol, graphite and subtle white pepper give way to a ripe, dense, complex flavour tapestry of powerful, concentrated tobacco and dark plum. The emphasis is decidedly on fruit and terroir, and much less on what the region’s wines are often famous for, namely, oak. INTRODUCED BY BORDELAISE WINEMAKERS IN THE 18TH CENTURY who
fled their own phylloxera-ravaged vineyards in search of new possibilities, the unmistakeable and pronounced vanilla footprint imparted by oak barrels has long been the most recognizable feature of Rioja’s red wines — for better or worse. Today, the region’s more forward-looking producers are more judicious with the application of oak, seeking to better integrate the resulting flavour into the wine’s overall profile. Thirteen metres beneath the crust of the Rioja Alta region, I gaze out over a vast
MONTECILLO, WE HAVE ALSO BEEN IDENTIFYING SELECTING VINEYARDS WITH SPECIAL CHARACSTICS THAT WILL MAKE VERY LIMITED PRODUCN WINES THAT SHOW PERFECTLY THE TERROIR ERE THEY COME FROM.” ROCÍO OSBORNE
expanse of oak barrels (19,000 of them to be precise). I’d seen similar vistas a few years ago while visiting Bodegas Roda and Lopez de Heredia in Haro. Seeing so much oak, it’s hard not to think that wood might still be a dominant factor in the flavour of the red wines produced here. Sharing this observation with Osborne elicited this response: “Oak is important, but a key point for us is that the oak backs up the wine and doesn’t overwhelm the fruit. Our aim is to craft balanced wines, where the oak nuances are clean and fresh, and the fruit displays its varietal character.” She notes that the barrels in the cellars of Montecillo average two to three years in age, and that racking (transferring of wine to different barrels) and regularly cleaning the barrels helps the winery achieve the oak/fruit balance it desires. Of course, balance is what all winemakers seek. However, it’s not just a heavy hand with oak that can turn a would-be elegant Rioja reserva into a gloopy mess. Mother Nature herself often throws a curveball, especially when it comes to heat. Deniers of global warming might want to chat with a grape grower or two working in regions where the harvest is now happening routinely in August as opposed to September. Sure, if you’re producing in a cool climate like, say, Niagara, the
extra heat may equate to richer reds, but, in most regions, more heat equals more ripeness equals more sugar in the grapes equals more alcohol in the wine. “And more alcohol is bad?” you ask, eyebrows raised. Well, yes, if balance is the key to a stellar wine. (If it’s just alcohol you’re after, there’s this thing called vodka …) “We don’t want to have overripe grapes and 15 percent alcohol wines,” Osborne confirms. “For us, balance is key, and for this reason, we strive to keep alcohol, ripeness and acidity under control, with a very careful and strict control of the vineyards right before harvest.” Luckily for Rioja winemakers like Osborne, geography works in their favour when it comes to tempering heat and, as an outcome, alcohol. Most Montecillo wines come in at around 13.5 percent ABV, decidedly low proof in an oenological world where 14.5 percent is the new 12. With a final swirl, sniff and swig, Carlos disappears, leaving but a warm memory in my veins. At some point tomorrow (actually, later today), Spain will also be but a warm memory — a memory of Madrid, Jerez, Cadiz, Seville, Bilbao and Logroño; of fantastic food, incredible vistas and the sensational red wines of Rioja. ×
• Prem emie ierr Cr Cru u ki kitt ra rack ckss • Pr • wine coolers & accessories • established 19995
your wine deserves the very best home 905-275-0979
RosehillWineCellars.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 19
THE OTHER KING
by Michaela Morris
EVERY SUMMER, I HEAD TO THE HILLS OF BAROLO FOR COLLISIONI, AN AGRI-ROCK FESTIVAL MASHING UP MUSIC, LITERATURE AND WINE. As a result, I have been able to
take in concerts by Sting, Elton John and Depeche Mode. Really, though, I’m there for the libations. Barolo is the headliner but the hit list includes wines from every corner of Italy — with one glaring exception, Barolo’s neighbouring region of Barbaresco. So it caused quite a stir this past summer when a troupe of Barbaresco producers sashayed into Barolo’s castle to present a tasting completely dedicated to Piedmont’s “other” great Nebbiolo wine. It was like the Anglicans taking over the Vatican. In truth, there are a plethora of fantastic Nebbiolo-based denominations beyond Barolo. Roero, Gattinara, Boca and Lessona are all rising stars. Despite Barbaresco being better known, it is still overshadowed by the towering giant of Barolo. A third of the size, a third of the production levels and even a third of the land costs, Barbaresco counts approximately 750 hectares producing 4.8 million bottles annually with top cru sites estimated at €700,000/ha. That is, if you can actually find land for sale. While bottles don’t necessarily sell for a third of the cost of a Barolo, most Barbaresco is far less expensive. Quality is where the disparities end. 20 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
“Barbaresco is a first among equals,” pronounces author and Italian wine authority Dr. Ian D’Agata who presides over this milestone seminar. “It’s the other king of Piedmont,” he continues, refuting Barbaresco’s feminine stereotype. Both are made exclusively from Nebbiolo and they can be difficult to tell apart when tasted blind. Intense and evocatively perfumed with an assertive structure combining searing acidity and firm tannins, they are among Italy’s most complex, age-worthy wines. Distinguishing between the two, D’Agata says: “Barbaresco is more graceful in texture and typically gives a less tannic wine.” Barbaresco’s differences start with her hills. With most vineyards sitting between 150 to 350 metres, they are lower lying, softer and less steep than Barolo’s. But they are no less stunning. Driving around the region feels like riding the ocean’s waves. The roads twist and turn to reveal one magnificent site after another, all of varying aspects. Furthermore, Barbaresco sits closer to the Tanaro River than Barolo, resulting in a gentler microclimate, yet a greater abundance of Piemonte’s signature mysterious fog. Digging deeper, soil is another factor. Mainly of Tortonian origin, Barbaresco’s blue grey marls are rich in magnesium and manganese and tend to produce earlier maturing wines. While Barolo equally lays claim to Tortonian-era dirt as well, it also
RIZZI BARBARESCO DOCG NERVO 2015 ($45)
Treiso’s Nervo cru is unique in Barbaresco. The soil has Serravallian elements — more sand and less clay — and the slope is impossibly steep. Gorgeous aromas of pure cherry and strawberry waft from the glass. While this wine can be a bit bony in cool years, the generous 2015 vintage has given it just enough padding to balance the nervous acidy and linear tannins. Brilliant texture, energy and brightness! RIZZI BARBARESCO DOCG PAJORÈ 2015 ($50)
Within the township of Treiso, Pajorè sits at lower altitudes and is closer to the Tanaro River than Nervo. The two wines are crafted in the same manner, aging in large Slavonian botte followed by concrete tanks to highlight the terroir. Richer and fleshier than the Nervo, though still focused, this wine is deliciously accessible now but that lingering finish promises at least a decade of drinking pleasure. ADRIANO MARCO E VITTORIO BARBARESCO DOCG BASARIN 2015 ($35)
Basarin typically gives bigger wines, which Michela Adriano calls strong yet refined. Fragrant rose and violet intertwine with balsamic nuances. Firmly tannic with plenty of layers and a minerally finish, it will need a couple of years to come around. Excellent value! ALBINO ROCCA BARBARESCO DOCG RONCHI 2014 ($70)
This fourth-generation estate is run by three sisters: Daniela, Monica and Paola. The family’s most representative site is Ronchi, a small, homogenous southeast-facing cru within the commune of Barbaresco. This vintage offers plenty of freshness without sacrificing complexity. Seductively earthy notes are punctuated by mint and fennel. Elegantly crafted with a tangy backbone and rather sneaky long tannins.
boasts a significant portion of older soils formed in the Serravallian period. Less compact and less fertile, they are associated with the unyielding wines from the Serralunga township — the epitome of Barolo’s powerful, backward image. Barbaresco’s more precocious disposition is reflected in the denomination’s aging requirements — two years as opposed to Barolo’s three. Barbaresco and Barolo are sufficiently different that they should be considered independently, particularly when it comes to vintage. 2014 was challenging for both but Barbaresco managed to dodge the hail that devastated Barolo. It also endured less rain, with none in the weeks leading up to harvest. Barolo was not so lucky. Conversely, in the highly touted 2010 vintage, it is arguable that Barolo has the edge over Barbaresco. Rather than expounding on the differences between these equally noble peers, it is far more fascinating to explore the diversity simply within the small zone of Barbaresco. Like Barolo (and comparable to Burgundy or Bordeaux), Barbaresco is made up of separate communes — four in total. The township of Barbaresco is the most famous, having given its name to the greater region. Some of the most complete and profound Barbaresco wines hail from here. By comparison, D’Agata describes wines from the commune of Neive as bigger and fleshi-
COLLA BARBARESCO DOCG RONCAGLIE 2014 ($60)
Roncaglie is a south-facing amphitheatre sitting on the first hill within the Barbaresco commune, right next to Gaja’s famed Costa Russi. Cinnamon and pepper offset red berries and pretty florals with fine, velvety tannins holding the palate together seamlessly. ORLANDO ABRIGO BARBARESCO DOCG MONTERSINO 2013 ($60)
A lesser-known but up-and-coming cru. Orlando Abrigo’s wine is aged in a combination of barriques and tonneaux for 18 months and is still showing some toasty oak. A sturdy wine that offers sweet liquorice, raspberry and smoketinged herbs at its core. CA’ DEL BAIO BARBARESCO RISERVA DOCG ASILI 2013 ($55)
With a southwestern exposition and compact soil, it yields deep, profound wines. Aged for a full 36 months in used barriques and a further year in the bottle, this Riserva is layered, concentrated and long with plenty of life ahead. Haunting underbrush aromas hint at truffles with notes of wild berries and fragrant herbs chiming in. Firm yet silky tannins give support to the dense succulent fruit. Truly stunning! JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 21
DANIELA AND PAOLA ROCCA, CARLO CASTELLENGO AND MONICA ROCCA FROM ALBINO ROCCA
er whereas those from San Rocco Seno d’Elvio are “easy to understand with lots of early appeal.” Finally, Treiso is farthest from the Tanaro River, experiencing a more rigid microclimate. It also boasts some of the highest vineyards in Barbaresco, which give steelier, more austere wines. “Nebbiolo is a grape that expresses differently depending on the vineyard site. So, to generalize, you lose a lot,” declares Claudia Cigliuti, whom I visited just prior to Collisioni. This is one of the reasons why the Barbaresco region is further broken up into 66 crus. These legally recognized subzones are officially known as Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA), which translates as “Additional Geographical Definitions.” Colloquially referred to as crus, this terminology is a slight misnomer. A “cru” Barbaresco is not necessarily higher quality than one that comes from an assembly of sites. Rather, it is a geographical reference and ideally the wine should be an expression of its specific site. The side-by-side comparison of a dozen crus at Collisioni’s Barbaresco invasion bore witness to the region’s distinct terroirs. Siblings Enrico and Jole Dellapiana of the Treiso-based Rizzi estate, who spearheaded the encounter, demonstrated the distinction between terroris with their separate cru bottlings of Pajorè and Nervo. Enrico could easily be mistaken for a basketball player rather than a winemaker. And, as shooting hoops is indeed his second passion, he likens Pajorè to Lebron James and Nervo to Kevin Durant. “James, like Pajorè, plays with more excessive physical power and force combined with a big personality,” he explains. “Durant is like Nervo, great elegant and grace.” For basketball novices like myself, his sister Jole’s analogy is much more comprehensible — think Brigitte Bardot versus Audrey Hepburn. Alas, this evokes Barbaresco’s female typecasting. 22 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
I would not deign to label Barbaresco feminine for many reasons, yet the seminar left an indelible womanly impression. Aside from Enrico Dellapiana, the crew was dominated by strong, dynamic women with a contagious enthusiasm for their land, their work and wine. Valentina Grasso spoke on behalf of the Ca’ del Baio estate. She, along with her sisters Paola and Federica, represent the next generation of this 28-hectare property. They operate holistically without a strict division of responsibilities. The choice to work at the family estate was born spontaneously, Grasso explains. “From the time we were small, we have been breathing this atmosphere of the winery and vineyard,” she says. “We always liked it so it was easy to choose to study at the oenology school.” Like Grasso, Michela Adriano at Adriano Marco e Vittorio grew up on the family property. In her early twenties, she has been working at the estate officially since 2014. Her first highly important contribution was to establish a much needed online and social media presence for the winery but now she is learning all facets of production and the business. “Women have always been present in wine but unfortunately were hidden. They didn’t appear as important figures,” says Adriano. “I am happy that this world is giving them the value they deserve, allowing them to emerge from the shadows.” Barbaresco is in good hands with the women — and men — currently at the helm. It also represents a savvy buy next to Barolo. I don’t expect it will fly under the radar for much longer though. Buy up while the getting is good. Besides the underrated 2014 vintage, the ripe and generous 2015 wines are currently making it onto shelves with the thrillingly nervy and precise 2016 wines hot on their heels. ×
IT’S SUMMER
SOMEWHERE!! by Duncan Holmes
VEGETABLE AND COCONUT MILK SOUP
If kept covered in the refrigerator, this delicious soup can be made several hours ahead. Unfortunately, this recipe is unsuitable for freezing.
Right now, the garden really isn’t a garden. It’s just earth, quietly sleeping in the February cold. There are still clues as to what it once was, and my imagination is already suggesting what it soon might be. Last season’s tattered tomato plants are scattered about — and there are even a few sodden-frozen tomatoes that never even became more jars of chutney as fall closed in. Christmas lights that never went out, half a dozen bright orange peppers are also hanging in. At this time of year, as I impatiently poke around in the cold at the fallow beds, and visualize the crops of spring and summer, I can hear The Mamas & the Papas, trapped on North America’s cold east coast, longing for, and dreamin’ of the warmth of California. “All the leaves are brown,” they sang, “and the sky is grey; I’ve been for a walk, on a winter’s day. I’d be safe and warm, if I was in L.A.”
1 tbsp oil 1 medium onion, chopped 2 small fresh red chillies, chopped 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 1/4 cups water or chicken stock 150 g can coconut milk 1 cup milk 2 tsp shrimp sauce 2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp lemon pepper 230 g can water chestnuts, drained and sliced Bunch of bok choy, finely chopped 425 g can straw mushrooms (or substitute fresh) 1 small red pepper, finely chopped Heat the oil in a large saucepan, then add the onion, chillies and ginger. Cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes (or microwave on high in a microwave-safe dish for about 3 minutes), or until onion is soft. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes before serving. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 23
CRISPY DUCK SALAD
SERVES 4 TO 6
Super Vancouver chef and friend David Hawksworth offered this full-of-flavour recipe. It’s loaded with the kind of creativity that has made his restaurant Hawksworth, opened in downtown Vancouver in 2011, a multiple-award-winning restaurant. (And if you take an international Business Class flight with Air Canada, you will be served one of Hawksworth’s signature dishes.) To save time, you can purchase already cooked barbecue Pekin duck at most Asian supermarkets, which is where you’ll also find crispy onions.
1 2 2 400
Half a Pekin Duck tbsp five-spice powder star anise Half an orange, peeled and sliced 3-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced cloves garlic, sliced ml canola oil, for frying
SOY AND GINGER VINAIGRETTE
75 ml grapeseed oil 50 ml sesame oil 25 ml soy sauce 1 tbsp, ginger, peeled and finely grated with a microplane Juice of 1 lime DUCK DRESSING
200 25 25 10 1
ml ketchup ml honey ml soy sauce ml sesame oil Juice from half an orange tsp black sesame seeds
24 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
FOR THE SALAD
180 g watercress, washed and spun 1 carrot, peeled and cut into a fine julienne or ribbons using a spiralizer Half of a daikon, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, peeled and cut into a fine julienne or ribbons using a spiralizer 1 medium purple beetroot, peeled and cut into a fine julienne or ribbons using a spiralizer 18 g crispy onions 1 tsp black sesame seeds Handful pomegranate seeds 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the duck with the five-spice powder and salt. Place the garlic, star anise, ginger and oranges slices in a roasting pan. Place the duck on top. 2. Roast for 45 minutes, until the skin is golden brown and crispy. While the duck is roasting, prepare the vinaigrette and duck dressing by whisking together the ingredients for each recipe in a separate bowl. 3. Remove the duck from the oven and rest on a wire rack until it’s cool enough to handle. Carve the duck and cut the breast meat into 1/4 cm thick slices. Pull the leg meat into bite-sized pieces. Set aside for frying. 4. Add the canola oil to a large pot and heat the oil to 350°F. Do not fill the pot more than half full. Fry the sliced duck until crispy, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Toss in the duck dressing. 5. Mix the watercress, carrots, beets and daikon with some of the soy and ginger vinaigrette. Divide the salad between the serving plates or arrange on a serving platter. Place the crispy fried duck on top and garnish with black sesame seeds, pomegranate and crispy onions.
OYSTER AND CHORIZO STEW WITH SMOKED TOMATOES SERVES 4
CHICKEN PROVENCE SERVES 4
I picked up this recipe at a cooking school in Vancouver one evening when it was presented by Caren McSherry, a very clever cook.
900 g chicken pieces, skin removed Olive oil, for frying 1 large onion, finely diced Flour, for dredging 8 whole garlic cloves, peeled 1/4 cup morels, soaked in water 1/2 cup mix of cepes and boletus, soaked in 2 cups of white wine 2 tbsp undiluted chicken bouillon cube 1 cup button mushrooms, sliced 1 cup heavy cream 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped, for garnish 1. Wash and dry the chicken. Heat just enough oil to cover the bottom of a pan, then soften the onion in the oil. Remove and set aside. 2. Add more oil to the pan for frying. Dredge the chicken pieces in the flour and brown evenly in the pan, adding more oil as needed. Remove the cepes and boletus from the white wine and set mushrooms aside. 3. When the pieces are brown, transfer to a roasting pan (with a lid). Deglaze the pan with the white wine in which the cepes have been are soaking. Add the onion, garlic, all the mushrooms and chicken bouillon to the pan. Let simmer a few minutes, then pour sauce over the chicken pieces. 4. Put the lid on the roasting pan and bake at 350°F for one and a half hours. Transfer the chicken pieces to a serving dish, cover and keep warm. Meanwhile, remove the mushrooms from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. 5. Remove the roasted garlic cloves and purée. Bring the juices remaining in the plan to a boil, then add cream and the pureed garlic. Adjust the seasonings, then return the mushrooms to the pan and pour the cream sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.
500 ml oysters, drained Flour, for dredging the oysters and thickening the stew Vegetable oil, for frying Salt and ground black pepper 1 link dry-cured spicy chorizo sausage, diced 2 tsp olive oil 1/2 onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 carrot, diced Half a leek, diced Half a sweet red pepper, diced 1/4 cup sweet corn, roasted 3 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and lightly smoked (optional) 1 pinch flour 1 tbsp tomato paste 1/2 tsp fennel seed, crushed 1 cup fish stock Cayenne (optional) Fresh chopped parsley and garlic toast, for garnishing 1. Season the oysters with salt and black pepper. Lightly dredge them in flour and pan-fry in vegetable oil until they are lightly golden brown. 2. Remove the oysters from the pan and let them drain well. Halve them and set aside. 3. To make the stew, sauté the diced chorizo in olive oil until slightly browned. Remove from the pan, reserving as much of the drippings as possible. 4. Add the onion and garlic, and sweat them until transparent. Add the carrot, leek, sweet pepper, corn, and tomatoes, and continue sautéing. 5. When the vegetables are a little soft, sprinkle enough flour overtop only to coat the vegetables. Stir in the tomato paste and fennel seed. Remove the pan from the heat and add the fish stock to achieve a soup-like consistency. 6. Let the stew simmer for 20 minutes more, or until the vegetables are tender. When the stew is ready, add the oysters, simmer for another couple of minutes. 7. Correct the seasoning, adding a little cayenne if more spiciness is desired. Add some chopped parsley and serve in soup bowls garnished with garlic toast. × JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 25
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Craig Pinhey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING MIONETTO PRESTIGE COLLECTION 1887 PROSECCO BRUT, DOC TREVISO, ITALY ($18)
Yellow pear and melon on the nose shifts to quite crisp apple and pear in the mouth, with lively spritz, a firm drying mineral impression, brisk acidity and, for Prosecco, a drier than usual finish. (SW) MASOTTINA PROSECCO SUPERIORE EXTRA DRY CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG, ITALY ($20)
Shows very fine bead in the glass with delicate floral blossom suggesting Acacia together with a note of honeyed pear. The pear theme carries through on the palate, delivered in a soft, creamy texture with fine refreshing spritz, a touch of stony dryness and a lingering trace of almond on the just off-dry finish. Offers plenty of finesse for the price. (SW) GRUET BRUT METHODE CHAMPENOISE, ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO, UNITED STATES ($30)
A refined bouquet revealing delicate citrus, green apple and toasty brioche. Ensuing lemon citrus and green apple flavours 26 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
are amplified by persistent effervescence, mineral and a subtle splash of vanilla on the palate. Offering Champagne-style richness with contrasting austere crispness, this is a surprisingly fine sparkler and an outstanding value. (SW) CHARME DE JEAN-PAUL BRUN CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS NV, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($32)
An incredible value. Aromas and flavours of apple and citrus blossom with hints of biscuit, vanilla and nuts, bright acidity and firm backbone. (GB) FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIDDLED SPARKLING 2011, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($35)
This is a traditionally made blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) sparkling wine that spends 6 years on the lees before disgorging. Notes of bright lemon, brioche, green apple, toasty vanilla and biscuit on the nose. Such freshness and energy on the palate with flavours of zesty citrus, creamy pear, brioche and apple all delivered on an elegantly textured frame with length and finesse on the finish. (RV) RAVENTÓS I BLANC BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2016, CONCA DEL RIU ANOIA, SPAIN ($36)
The Raventós family have a viticultural tradition dating back to 1497, making them
one of the oldest continuous vineyard owners in the world. Josep Maria Raventós i Fatjo is credited with producing the first Cava in the late 1800s. Loads of apple and pear aromas with a creamy texture, notes of lemon, lime and ginger with fresh acidity and a long finish. A blend of Macabeu, Xarel·lo and Parellada. (GB) ROEDERER ESTATE BRUT NV, ANDERSON VALLEY, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($42)
Excellent balance between creamy and fresh textures with crisp, elegant and complex notes of pear, lime and nuts. 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Layered and versatile with everything from poached salmon to cassoulet. (GB) HIDDEN BENCH BLANC DE BLANC ZERO DOSAGE 2013, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($48)
The wine spent 7 months in oak barrels and 47 months on the lees in bottle before disgorging this past July. This is a zero dosage sparkler, so no back sweetening. It has a gorgeous nose of brioche, green apple, toasted vanilla, cream, citrus and almonds all flowing from a fine bubble in the glass. It’s texturally beautiful on the palate with razor-sharp acidity that yields crisp citrus and apple fruits, all framed by toasty/nutty/creamy/baked bread accents through a perfectly dry, lively and elegant finish. (RV)
BLOMIDON BLANC DE BLANCS METHODE TRADITIONNELLE 2010, NOVA SCOTIA ($75)
It shows pale, burnished green gold in the glass with very fine mousse. Bouquet is complex and powerful with elegant citrus fruit, vanilla and toasty brioche. Opens on the palate with elegant lemon citrus intensity, good weight, racy acidity and bracing mineral grip. There is potential here to develop further richness and complexity with additional cellaring. Another home run for Nova Scotia traditional method bubble. (SW) BRUNO PAILLARD PREMIÈRE CUVÉE CHAMPAGNE NV, REIMS, FRANCE ($85)
Delicate aromas of citrus, exotic fruit and brioche with clean flavours of citrus, figs, almonds and currants. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from over 30 villages. Elegant and finessed. Pairs with everything. (GB)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA EVOLVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($17)
Lifted stone fruit and tropical notes before a quite generous, fruit-driven palate of lemon-lime, guava and spicy hints wrapped in juicy acidity with a lingering end. (TP) DIRTY LAUNDRY WOO WOO GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, SUMMERLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($19)
Vibrant aromas of rose petal, intense floral notes and stone fruit invite to a lychee- and ginger-perfumed palate with luscious intensity supported by good acidity along with ginger and spice hints through the finish. (TP)
ate wrapped in lively, juicy acidity with flavours of peach, pineapple with a hint of minerality through a lengthy close. (TP) CHILE CARTA VIEJA LIMITED RELEASE RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2017, DO VALLE DEL LONCOMILLA ($17)
This strikingly unusual wine is quite pale green in colour, showing lively aromatic grassy herbal green fruit, more typical of Sauvignon than Chardonnay. It opens on the palate with limpid, elegant fresh green fruit supported by bright acidity, stony mineral and a delicate splash of buttery vanilla on the finish. (SW)
Sourced from 32-year-old vines in the winery’s Okanagan Falls estate vineyard, picked according to acidity levels rather than brix. Excellent varietal character denoted by upfront tropical and citrus notes before a vibrant, mouth-filling pal-
KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2017, STELLENBOSCH ($18)
A worthy dinner party wine. Pale straw in colour with a spicy bouquet of apple and quince. It’s medium-bodied, dry, unctuous with pear and honey flavours and a touch of bitterness on the finish. Works well with chicken or grilled fish. (TA) SPAIN ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO GODELLO 2016, BIERZO DO ($17)
Bright, pale straw in colour with minerally, lemon and lemon blossom bouquet; light-bodied, crisply dry, beautifully balanced with a long finish. A top drawer Muscadet. (TA)
The Bierzo region of Northwestern Spain remains a well-kept secret. Godello, the star white grape, produces consistently stylish wines. The 2016 is no exception, showing fine floral and lemon citrus on the nose, with lively citrus and green fruit flavours delivered in a crisply refreshing, yet smoothly rounded package. Exemplary simple elegance at a very reasonable price. (SW)
CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE LE PAGE 2015, IGP MÉDITERRANÉE ($18)
RECOMMENDED
FRANCE LES FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SÈVRE ET MAINE MUSCADET 2016, LOIRE ($15)
Blend includes somewhat uncommon southern varietals like Roussanne and Rolle. Clear medium gold. Forward nose of melon, pineapple and lanolin. Full-bodied, tasting of ripe apple, stewed apricots and honey. Prominent acidity. Fruit may be thinning, at its best now. (RL)* GREECE KOURTAKI MUSCAT OF SAMOS, SAMOS ($16)
A real bargain for sweet wine lovers! Golden colour with a honey and orange blossom bouquet; medium-bodied, spicy and sweet orange and honey flavours but nicely balanced with cleansing acidity. Serve with blue cheese or cake. (TA) SOUTH AFRICA
8TH GENERATION RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN FALLS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($20)
mouth-freshening acidity. Match it with grilled chicken or a ripe Camembert. (TA)
BOSCHENDAL 1685 CHARDONNAY 2016, COASTAL REGION ($16)
Pale straw in colour, this tasty Chardonnay has a lightly minerally nose of citrus and apple with just a hint of oak; it’s medium-bodied, dry and beautifully balanced with a peachy-melon flavour and
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
AUSTRALIA BRIAR RIDGE EARLY HARVEST SEMILLON 2017, HUNTER VALLEY ($20)
Clear pale silvery yellow. Aromas of lime juice and pineapple with a bit of “cat’s pee” (sorry, but it’s true). Tastes of lemon and lime, also green mango, with intense acidity. Versatile food wine: the acidity can complement the bitterness of green veggies like asparagus or bell peppers, or contrast with and cut the oil of fish like salmon or mackerel. Will mellow and open up a bit with another year or two. (RL)* CANADA PELEE ISLAND CHARDONNAY 2016, LAKE ERIE, ONTARIO ($13)
Light straw in colour, this bargain-priced Ontario wine has a nose of apple, lemon and undergrowth; it’s medium-bodied, dry, with apple and peach flavours and a floral note on the end. It’s got good length on the palate. Match it with grilled fish or chicken. (TA) JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 27
BUYING GUIDE PELEE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE RIESLING 2017, LAKE ERIE, ONTARIO ($13)
Lightly floral nose of grapefruit; light- to medium-bodied, crisply dry with green peach and lime flavours and a hint of spice. Long fresh finish. (TA) JOST COASTAL L’ACADIE BLANC RIESLING 2016, NOVA SCOTIA ($15)
Citrus, green apple and light floral scents lead into crisp lemon citrus and lively green apple flavours with brisk acidity and dry mineral on the refreshingly clean finish. Serve as an aperitif or pair with shellfish. Good value. (SW) BURNT SHIP BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA ($19)
Showing aromatic grapefruit, pear and typically varietal grassy and green herbal scents, this medium-bodied, refreshingly balanced white is quite reminiscent of the Bordeaux style. Pair with shellfish and simple white fish dishes. (SW) FRANCE M. CHAPOUTIER BELLERUCHE BLANC 2017, CÔTES-DU-RHONE AC ($19)
Ripe citrus, floral and mineral on the nose give way to lemon and ripe grapefruit flavours supported by refreshingly soft acidity, gravelly mineral and a clean, attractively fruity finish. (SW)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE RIESLING 2017, OSOYOOS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($23)
Sourced from a warmer site in Osoyoos, 28 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
stainless steel fermented with native yeast. Vibrant orchard fruit and citrus aromas, intensely flavoured layers of lemon, lime and peach on the palate, enhanced by generous mouthfeel from 8 months in concrete eggs, underpinned by racy acidity through a persistent, zesty end. (TP)
malolactic fermentation. Look for summer apples, pears, integrated spice and chalky/ stony minerality with lemon-citrus lift. It is pure harmony on the palate with a lovely note of elegant spice, swirling minerality, fruits of pear, baked apple, quince and finesse on the finish. (RV)
FORT BERENS RIESLING RESERVE 2017, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($23)
TAWSE SOUTH BAY CHARDONNAY 2015, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONTARIO ($35)
From a single block in the Lillooet estate vineyard, stainless steel fermented and aged in bottle for 9 months. Vibrant upfront orchard and stone fruits with some honeyed notes, followed by a generous, off-dry palate accentuated by apple and peach flavours with undertones of citrus and green apple; well balanced acidity, with a hint of minerality and intensity of flavours through a long close. (TP) BENCH 1775 POST MODERN CHARDONNAY 2014, NARAMATA BENCH, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($23)
Partially oak aged (15%). Vanilla and citrus up front, followed by vibrant fresh lemon lime underpinned by juicy acidity, with creamy and mineral notes that carry through to a zesty luscious close. (TP) HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($25)
Pale straw in colour with a spicy, minerally, grapefruit nose with a honeyed note; light- to medium-bodied, just offdry with grapefruit and honey flavours and fresh citrus acidity giving the wine great length. (TA) CULMINA DILEMMA CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($34)
Such freshness and elegance on the nose of this Chardonnay that went through partial
This second edition of Chardonnay is sourced from Huff Estate’s South Bay parcel in Prince Edward County and sees 12 months of French oak. There is such a rich and flintly/stony elegance on the nose with notes of apple, pear and integrated oak spice. It’s mouth-filling and vibrant on the palate with pure apple, poached pear, elegant spice and profound minerality notes all perfectly balanced and finessed through the finish. (RV) HIDDEN BENCH FELSECK VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($39)
This is a beautifully nuanced Chardonnay with a range of baked apple, lemon, creamy pear, stony minerality and such wonderful elegant barrel spice notes on the nose. It’s rich yet finessed on the palate with all those lovely apple/pear/citrus flavours melded to rousing barrel spices, minerality and mouth-watering acidity. (RV) BACHELDER WISMER WINGFIELD CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($45)
Subtle to begin, with flinty, saline minerality starting the attack on the nose. The apple and pear begin to emerge with citrus in behind. It is tight and fresh with fine oak spice that slowly emerges. It is such a pretty wine, seductive on the palate with soft orchard fruits, a touch of
acacia honey, fresh lemon, layers of flint, pebbly/river rock minerality and such beautifully integrated oak spice that never gets in the way of the fruit. (RV) FRANCE CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, AC GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG ($22)
Clear, the color of old brass. Seductive nose of elderflower, rose, lychee, bruised apple, a bit of varnish. Viscous mouthfeel, sweet and grapey with a still-lingering spark of acidity. Endless finish. Super with stuffed Easter turkey, cranberries and roasted Brussels sprouts. Great value. Ready to drink now. (RL)* LA CHABLISIENNE CUVÉE LA SEREINE 2015, CHABLIS AC ($28)
Opens with mellow green apple and subtle nutty overtones on the nose, with typical green apple flavour delivered in a rounded, creamy texture, countered by contrasting crisp acidity and dry mineral grip. Solid, food-friendly and fairly priced. (SW)
with a pinch of spice and a light, refreshing touch of mineral. (SW) SPAIN TERRAS GAUDA ABADIA DE SAN CAMPIO ALBARINO 2017, RÍAS BAIXAS ($27)
Aromas and flavours of citrus, ripe pear, apple and pineapple; crisp and salty with good balance between fruit and acidity. Try with ceviche, fish tacos, Thai cuisine and sushi. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Aromas of white flowers with flavours of apple, almond and fresh herbs, fresh, clean and pure with great balance and a crisp finish. Coffele was the first Soave Classico producer to be certified organic. A great aperitif wine and excellent with light pastas and seafood dishes. (GB) SCHOLA SARMENTI FIANO SALENTO BIANCO 2017, PUGLIA ($30)
An intriguing wine with fresh floral aromas and a lovely streak of salinity with a touch of bitter nuttiness and a savoury quality. Pair with fresh oysters, vegetarian dishes with lentils or beans, and seafood of all sorts. (GB) NEW ZEALAND ROCK FERRY 3RD ROCK PINOT GRIS 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($30)
Elegant, softly perfumed ripe pear and stone fruit on the nose lead the way for equally refined fruit themes playing through on the creamy, smoothly rounded palate. A wine of great charm, finishing
Clear deep garnet. Robust nose of black cherry, black liquorice, and a hint of sherry. Medium-bodied, with juicy and fruity raspberry and cherry flavours and highish acidity. At its best now. (RL)* SHOTTESBROOKE ESTATE SHIRAZ 2014, MCLAREN VALE ($18)
Clear medium-deep ruby. Medium nose of cherry jam, a sniff of black pepper and a hint of tar. Medium-bodied at most, with fruity ripe cherry and fresh acidity which allows enjoyment with pasta in a tomato sauce. Will improve with another year.
UNITED STATES DROUHIN OREGON ROSE ROCK CHARDONNAY 2015, EOLA AMITY HILLS, OREGON ($45)
Good varietal citrus and green apple on the nose with a touch of vanilla, a pinch of nutmeg and a slight whiff of alcohol. Leaner on the palate than the nose would suggest, showing crisp green apple and prominent acidity, finishing with a touch of nutty butter. (SW)
ITALY COFFELE SOAVE CLASSICO CASTELCERINO 2017, VENETO ($30)
SHOTTESBROOKE REGIONAL SHIRAZ 2015, LANGHORNE CREEK ($16)
SHOTTESBROOKE ESTATE GSM 2015, MCLAREN VALE ($18)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Healthysized nose of cherry cough syrup, figs, candy apple (from the Grenache) and a sprinkle of cinnamon. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied wine, for quaffing, not sipping. Tastes of ripe, fresh cranberry and pomegranate with the right level of acidity. Best now. (RL)* CANADA
FLOWERS CHARDONNAY 2016, SONOMA COAST ($60)
Just a delight to drink! Straw-coloured with a toasty, minerally, caramel and apple bouquet; medium- to full-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced, spicy and elegant lemon meringue flavour. (TA)
RED
PELEE ISLAND MERLOT 2017, LAKE ERIE, ONTARIO ($11)
Ruby coloured with a violet rim, this tasty red offers a cedary nose of blackcurrants with oak spice. It’s medium-bodied, dry, with vibrant red and blackcurrant flavours and lively acidity. Fresh on the palate with a touch of spice on the finish, it’s great value. (TA) HENRY OF PELHAM BACO NOIR 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($16)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA BERTON HEAD OVER HEELS CABERNET/MERLOT 2015, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($15)
Clear very deep crimson. Luscious aromas of cassis, treacle toffee and sweet Amaretto-like oak, with some earthiness from the Merlot. Ripe red berry fruit and brandy chocolate on the palate are supported by high acidity and noticeable tannins, but the flavours are mature, so drink this year. Terrific with a beefy, cheesy meat pie. (RL)*
Opaque purple in colour, this richly extracted Bac behaves more like a vinifera than a hybrid. Spicy, slightly herbal on the nose, it shows blackberry fruit with vanilla oak notes. Medium-bodied and dry, jammy flavours of black plum and prune accented with vanilla oak fill the mouth. (TA) FRANCE XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2015, RHÔNE ($18)
Xavier Vignon is one of the most prominent oenologists in the southern Rhône Valley. His 100% Côtes du Rhône, from JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 29
BUYING GUIDE a super-ripe vintage, is deep purple in colour with a spicy, blackberry and herb-tinged nose. It’s full-bodied and dry, richly extracted with sweet blackberry and black cherry flavours, balanced with acidity and held together structurally with ripe tannins. The perfect wine for winter casseroles. (TA) CLOS DES MOISELLE 2015, BORDEAUX ($20)
Bordeaux’s Côtes de Bourg region offers some great value red wines. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, from an excellent vintage, is opaque purple in colour with a cedary-sandalwood nose of ripe plums. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s made in New World style. The flavours of plum and blackberry are delivered with a creamy mouthfeel. Perfect with lamb. (TA) ITALY TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2016, VENETO ($18)
A Valpolicella with cojones. Dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackberry nose with vanilla oak notes; it’s medium-bodied, dry with a juicy, black cherry flavour carried on lively acidity. Goes well with tomato-based pasta dishes or lamb shanks. (TA)
SAN VINCENTI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015, TUSCANY ($19)
Dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy nose of plum and an engaging floral note; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured, cherry flavour with oak spice and gripping tannins on the finish. Will reward cellaring for 2 to 3 years. Serve with tomato-based pasta dishes. (TA) 30 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
SPAIN BERONIA TEMPRANILLO RIOJA 2016, RIOJA ($14)
The 2016 vintage of this wine is not only the best value Rioja on the LCBO shelves but possibly the best value of all their reds. Deep purple in colour, it has an attractive nose of sandalwood, strawberry and ripe plum with a slightly earthy note; it’s medium-bodied and dry with red berry and red plum flavours and well integrated oak. A harmonious wine with lively acidity and ripe tannins. (TA)
palate, there is the mouth-watering sour cherry acidity of Sangiovese grapes, with soft tannins and a long finish. Made for an anchovy pizza with Crotonese cheese. Drink now. (RL)* UNITED STATES COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, WASHINGTON STATE ($20)
Ripe dark berry, blackcurrant, cinnamon and clove spiciness, supple tannins and good overall weight and balance. (SW)
$20.01 TO $35
RECOMMENDED
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FRANCE
XAVIER VENTOUX 2015, RHÔNE ($16)
A rich red at a great price. Deep purple-ruby in colour with a savoury-herbal nose of blackberries and dried rose petals; full-bodied, dry, firmly structured with blackberry and black plum flavours carried on lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. Match with red meat dishes. (TA) ITALY ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO 2016, MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC ($16)
Red plum and cherry on the nose with spicy bitter cherry, firm tannins and appetizing acidity in the mouth. Finishes with a splash of dark chocolate and dry tannic bite. (SW)
SERAPHICUM TOSCANA 2015, IGT ROSSO TOSCANA ($18)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium nose of raspberry jam flanked with cedar and vanilla oak and a bit of barnyard. On the
ARGENTINA BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA GRAN LURTON SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MENDOZA ($25)
Argentina is not all Malbec but this Cabernet does have 15% Malbec in the blend. You might think it expensive for an Argentinian wine — of course you do — but this one is well worth picking up. Dense purple in colour; it has a lovely cedary, tobacco and plum bouquet. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s dry and fruity, well structured and firm with ripe black fruit flavours and balancing acidity. (TA) CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, APPELLATION SAN CARLOS, MENDOZA ($27)
Opening with scents of ripe red berries, redcurrant and a whiff of eucalyptus, with berry, currant and peppery spice flavours playing through in the mouth, this zesty, intriguing, terroir-driven wine is harmoniously balanced, culminating with a long agreeably tannic finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY DURIF 2015, ADELAIDE HILLS ($29)
Clear very deep plum red. Medium nose of Christmas fruitcake with some dry tea and apple cider in the background. Fruit forward, packed with blueberry, blackberry and cherry flavours. Thankfully the high alcohol, acid and tannin levels keep it from fruit bomb territory. Will benefit from another year or two. (RL)* CANADA 8TH GENERATION PINOT NOIR 2016, SUMMERLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($23)
From the winery’s estate vineyard in Summerland, hand punched down, aged 12 months in used French barriques. Aromas of wild red berries and forest floor precede a pure fruit entry defined by cherry, strawberry and raspberry with savoury undertones, a silky textured mouthfeel, medium-bodied with good acidity and structure through a gently spicy finish. (TP) 13TH STREET WHITTY VINEYARD GAMAY 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($25)
This single vineyard Gamay shows more complexity and depth on the nose with a meaty/charcuterie/barnyard nose, darker fruits and earth. The fruit shines on the palate with plums, cherries and brambly raspberries to go with meaty/funky/ earthy notes and a perky finish. Aging this a couple of years would bring more integration to the overall package. (RV) QUAILS’ GATE OLD VINES FOCH 2016, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)
Dense purple in colour with a bouquet of baked plum and oak spice; medium- to full-bodied, dry, black plum flavour carried on lively acidity. (TA) FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)
A lighter bodied Pinot but one which punches well above its weight. Primarily Lillooet estate fruit (74%) with 26% from Vernon’s The Rise Vineyard. Aromas of wild red berries and spice before a well balanced palate of strawberry and cherry, with good intensity, balanced mouthfeel and silky tannins, through a gently spicy and juicy finish. (TP)
OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE NON FICTION RED BLEND 2016, OSOYOOS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($27)
A certified organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Osoyoos, fermented and aged 8 months in concrete eggs. Deep indigo in the glass with aromas of wild blue and black fruit leading to a plush, pure fruited blackberry and black cherry toned palate and spicy background with hints of fennel and anise; well integrated tannins and a generous mouthfeel, well structured with good acidity, blue fruit and spicy hints to finish. (TP) TIME MERITAGE RED 2016, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($30)
The blend is 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. It has such a nose of elegance and complexity with a range of black currants, cassis, anise, cedar box cigars and spice. It all comes together on the palate with integrated fruit and spice, bright acidity and fine-grained tannins holding it all together through a nice, long finish. (RV)
more concentrated black cherry character in the mouth. Supported by lightly firm velvety tannins, it finishes with a splash of dark chocolate. (SW) UNITED STATES J. LOHR SOUTH RIDGE SYRAH 2015, PASO ROBLES ($24)
Dense purple in colour with a spicy, savoury nose of blackberries with a light herbal note; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured with an earthy, blackberry flavour, lively acidity and ripe tannins. (TA) COPPER CANE ELOUAN PINOT NOIR 2013, OREGON ($35)
Perfumed ripe berry fruit with a touch of cinnamon and clove evolves on the palate to blackberry and black cherry flavours with firm tannins, dark chocolate and still somewhat assertive acidity. (SW)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA
BENCH 1775 CABERNET FRANC 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($32)
Sourced from east-facing slopes in the winery’s Osoyoos vineyard. Luscious red and black fruit, structured palate with firm but approachable tannins. Benefits from time in the glass. An elegant and supple mouthfeel with savoury edges and herbal notes wrapped in juicy acidity through a plush and rounded end. (TP) CLOS DU SOLEIL MIDDLE BENCH WINEMAKER’S SYRAH 2016, SIMILKAMEEN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($33)
Hand harvested, destemmed and open top fermented for 30 days, manual punch down and aged 16 months in mainly used French oak. Inviting aromas of dark red and black fruit, with spice and peppery notes leading to an impressively structured and juicy palate of blackcurrant, mulberry and clove hints, underpinned by well integrated tannins, with plush mouthfeel and a mineral streak through a spicy end. (TP)
JOSÉ ZUCCARDI MALBEC 2014, UCO VALLEY, MENDOZA ($45)
This wine shows what Argentina can do when it comes to producing an icon wine. Deep purple-black in colour with a cedary, savoury plum nose lifted with vanilla oak notes; full-bodied, dry, earthy black plum flavour with balancing acidity and a firm tannic finish. Needs 3-4 years to show its paces. (TA) CANADA HAYWIRE CANYONVIEW PINOT NOIR 2014, SUMMERLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($40)
From Trout Creek Canyon, Summerland. Small batch fermented with wild yeast and aged in concrete for 11 months. Forward lifted red berry and violet with some earthy notes before a precisely balanced medium-bodied palate with juicy acidity, plus savoury and spicy undertones balanced by approachable tannins. (TP)
NEW ZEALAND ROCK FERRY 3RD ROCK PINOT NOIR 2014, CENTRAL OTAGO ($38)
Opens with classic Pinot varietal spicy red cherry on the nose, shifting towards
JACKSON TRIGGS OKANAGAN SUNROCK ILLUMINA 2015, OSOYOOS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($40)
A blend of mainly Zinfandel (75%) with Shiraz (25%) from a well-named
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 31
BUYING GUIDE southwest facing hotspot on the east side of Osoyoos Lake. Intense aromas of vibrant red and black fruit with some mocha and spice notes precede a plush and juicy palate of blackberry, raspberry and cassis with a sweet vanilla streak, some good acidity and firm but approachable tannins with oak spice notes through the end. (TP) FIELDING ESTATE LOWREY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($43)
A seductive nose of black cherry, bramble, violets, forest floor, cassis and underlying spice notes with persistence and personality. It’s medium-bodied but shows structure and lovely texture on the palate to go with ripe and evident tannins in support of a rich broth of red fruits, chalky minerality, cassis, anise and elegant wood spices. (RV) HIDDEN BENCH TERROIR CACHÉ 2015, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($45)
From the rich 2015 vintage, a blend of 36% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot and 24% Malbec. Opaque purple in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of lightly peppery black fruits and vanilla oak; medium-bodied, dry and savoury with smoky, black fruit flavours. An elegant wine that’s still tight and firmly structured. Hold 4 to 5 years. (TA) DOMAINE QUEYLUS RÉSERVE DU DOMAINE PINOT NOIR 2016, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($45)
This is a heavenly scented Pinot with perfume, incense, savoury red fruits, plums and elegant spice notes on the nose. With gorgeous flavours of cherries, brambly raspberry and cassis on the palate, this Pinot is carried on a bed of smooth, silky tannins. In behind all 32 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
that fruit is a vein of iron minerality and barrel spice notes that will open up even more with time in the bottle. (RV) BURROWING OWL ATHENE 2015, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($45)
A blend of 58% Syrah and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, co-fermented. Opaque purple-black in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of blackberries and vanilla oak; full-bodied, rich and full on the palate with ripe tannins. A lovely wine drinking well now. (TA)
BACHELDER WISMER-PARKE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($45)
This top Pinot is pretty and delicate on the nose with aromas of cherries, crunchy raspberries, violets and perfume that leads to iron/slate minerality with soft oak spice notes. It’s focused on the palate with lovely tart cherry, bramble and savoury raspberry fruit and spice all delivered on a velvety smooth bed of tannins through a long finish. (RV) OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN 2014, SOUTHERN OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($48)
Deep purple in colour with a blackcurrant and black plum nose; medium-bodied, dry, savoury, well structured black fruit flavours with notes of dried herbs and licorice on the finish. (TA) HESTER CREEK LIMITED EDITION THE JUDGE 2015, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($50)
This signature wine from Hester Creek sourced from the estate’s oldest vines (some of the oldest in BC) is a wine that needs years of cellaring until it approaches any sort of balance. The nose is rich, dripping in generous notes of blackberries,
black cherries, blackcurrants followed by caramel spice, toasted vanilla and eucalyptus. It’s a well-structured wine on the palate with a riot of red and dark fruit backed up by plenty of oak spice, bramble, earth and a minty accent on the finish. It needs some aging to polish it all up. (RV) LAUGHING STOCK AMPHORA SYRAH 2016, OSOYOOS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($50)
Absolute non-intervention saw Syrah placed in two 500 L terracotta amphorae and left completely undisturbed for 8 months, with natural wild ferment spanning 5 weeks. Lifted red and black berries with pleasing meaty gamy notes lead to Bing cherry, mocha, black pepper and spice notes played against juicy acidity and plush mouthfeel with lingering spice and cedar, and a purity of flavour persistent through the close. (TP) TAWSE DAVID’S BLOCK MERLOT 2013, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($50)
This has a gorgeous, irresistible nose of blackcurrants, sweet tobacco and array of elegant spice notes, earth, kirsch, ripe blackberries and earthy/brambly notes. It’s thick and juicy on the palate and shows a range of currants, black pipe licorice, graphite, earth, meaty notes and layers of complexity and spice. This is a highly structured Merlot with a firm tannic backbone. (RV) VANESSA CABERNET FRANC 2015, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($50)
This is a beautiful and classic Franc with a nose of crushed red berries, herbs, spice, espresso notes and lingering earthy/ savoury notes. It’s highly structured on the palate with a range of red and dark fruits, gorgeous integrated herbs and spice, perky acidity and fine tannins. (RV)
FORT BERENS RED GOLD 2016, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($50)
The blend is about a third each of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot with 27% of the Cab Franc grapes air dried (appassimento style) for 30 days. This is a big wine with a pronounced nose of blackberries, plums, boysenberry, blueberry, anise, elegant oak spices, caramel, earth and dried herbs. All those succulent black fruits come together on the palate with supporting spice, licorice, juicy acidity and length for days on the finish. (RV)
ITALY DONNE FITTIPALDI 2015, BOLGHERI, TUSCANY ($46)
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackcurrant bouquet rising from vanilla oak; medium- to full-bodied, dry, elegant, firmly structured, plum and blackcurrant flavours. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA)
MISSION HILL RIESLING RESERVE ICEWINE 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($56/375 ML)
Picked on New Year’s Eve, partially fermented in French and American oak and sur lie aged. Forward notes of honey, tropical and citrus followed by a luscious but focused palate of peach with lemon-lime and distinctly mineral notes through the layered and lingering citrus-toned finish. The texture is viscose and flavours intense but never cloying, balanced by superb acidity. (TP)
UNITED STATES CLOS DU SOLEIL ESTATE RESERVE 2014, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($60)
A classic Bordeaux blend with varieties vinified and matured separately, aged 15 months in French oak (31% new). Wild red and black berries on the nose with some earthy notes lead to a juicy, vibrant and layered palate, defined by a streak of savoury underpinned by slate and minerality with blackberry, mulberry and cassis notes, supported by good acidity, an excellent refined tannin structure and a lengthy shiste finish. Hold for 3 to 5 years. (TP) VANESSA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($80)
It’s dark and thick in the glass with a nose of blackberries, blackcurrants, graphite, penetrating oak spice notes and underlying wet earth and underbrush. It’s incredibly rich and structured on the palate with well-defined ripe fruit, an interesting graphite note, spice, depth and complexity through a long and polished finish. (RV) FRANCE CHATEAU PALOUMEY CRU BOURGEOIS HAUT MEDOC 2015, BORDEAUX ($47)
HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE RED 2013, RED MOUNTAIN, WASHINGTON STATE ($39)
A blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Syrah. Dense purple colour with a cedary, blackberry nose augmented with vanilla oak spice; full-bodied, dry, savoury black fruit flavours with fresh acidity and grainy tannins. Good length. (TA) STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS ARTEMIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NAPA VALLEY ($85)
Opaque purple-black in colour with a cedary nose of plum and blackcurrant with oak spice and vanilla notes; medium- to full-bodied, dry, elegant, firmly structured with a great mouthfeel and warm alcoholic finish. (TA)
BEFORE, DURING & AFTER DINNER
Concentrated with black fruit, finesse, freshness and structure with firm, yet silky tannins. Drinking well now with some time in the decanter, but will benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Try with venison, veal and hard cheese. (GB)
HIDALGO NAPOLEON AMONTILLADO SHERRY, JEREZ, SPAIN ($24)
CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE 2012, RHÔNE ($50)
FERREIRA LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($25)
Deep ruby-purple in colour with a cedary, blackberry nose; medium- to full-bodied, dry and savoury with a black plum flavour and lively, balancing acidity. Hold 5 years at least. (TA)
Deep amber in colour. Nutty, chamomile nose. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, slightly herbal, green nut flavour; rich and full on the palate with great length. (TA)
Dense purple-black in colour with a lively bouquet of blackcurrant and mulberry; medium- to full-bodied, rich and spicy sweet blackcurrant and plum flavours. (TA)
INNISKILLIN RIESLING ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($80/375 ML)
Bright, old gold in colour with a lovely, lifted nose of mango and honey. Medium- to full-bodied, sweet, candy apple flavour with a balancing and engaging note of bitterness on the finish for added interest. (TA) JOTO JUNMAI GINJO, JAPAN ($35/720 ML)
The pink and red dots on the label of this sake represent the two different yeast strains used in production (yeast being a major flavour component of sake). Brewed by the Huchu Homare Yamagauchi Brewery, which was founded in 1854, this sake leads with a nose of honeydew melon and spring flower, which reappear in the mouth, along with flavours suggesting toasted nuts and a distinct “umami” component. (TS) TUSKET FALLS BREWING CO. SMOKED KIACK, TUSKET, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML)
Shows light amber in the glass, with rather delicate yeasty and distinctively smoky aromas. Soft orange citrus and light malty flavours come with creamy smoothness and dry tobacco smoke on the long finish. Certainly an unusual brew, but worth a try. Kiack, by the way, is a very rare fish, found only in the springtime in remote parts of southwestern Nova Scotia. (SW) TATAMAGOUCHE BREWING CO. TWEED WOLF BROWN IPA, TATAMAGOUCHE, NOVA SCOTIA ($5/473 ML)
Deep reddish brown in colour with a distinctive combination of fruity malt and piquant hoppy aromas. Rounded dried fruit flavours merge with toasty malt, cutting the initial sweetness, finishing with a moderate hit of nutty dryness. Easy to drink and a good winter warmer. (SW) JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
SALON, IT’S BEEN GOOD TO KNOW YOU IF YOU SHOULD COME ACROSS A 750 ML BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE SALON VINTAGE 2008, DON’T BUY IT. Why? Be-
cause it will be a forgery. In 2008, Salons only bottled in magnums. 10,000 of them. Salon is unique among Champagne houses for several reasons: They only make one wine — around 60,000 bottles annually. They source their grapes from a single vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. They only use Chardonnay (where other producers also press Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and they don’t blend. And all their wines are vintage-dated. If the grapes are not up to Salon standards, they do not release a Champagne (the grapes from their vineyard go to their sister company and next door neighbour, Delamotte, for their blend). Champagne Delamotte, founded in Rheims in 1670, is the fifth oldest Champagne house. While it produces Blanc de Blancs Champagnes like Salon, it does not restrict itself to Chardonnay-only grapes; it also makes non-vintage, blended Brut and Rosé. The house of Salon was founded by Eugène-Aimé Salon, the son of a Champenois cart-maker. At the beginning of the 20th century, having worked successfully in the fur trade in Paris, he travelled frequently to New York on business where he developed a taste for “the good life.” As a Champenois, he loved his local wine and he dreamed of creating the perfect Champagne for his own consumption. With the help of his brother-in-law, a Champagne cellar master, he chose the best vineyard land on the Côte de Blancs, in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger – two plots totalling one hectare and known today as “le jardin de Salon.” The village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger would be classified some 50 years later as one of the 17 100% Grands Crus vineyards in Champagne. (Incidentally, Krug bought the Clos du Mesnil in 1971 — a walled Chardonnay vineyard of less than five hectares that produces sublime Blanc de Blancs Champagne at a stratospheric price.) It was in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger that Eugène-Aimé Salon began his production of sparkling wine. The first known vintage of Salon was 1905. Over the past 100 years there have only been 37 vintages that bear the fabled Salon S Blanc de Blancs Brut label. The current vintage on the market is the 2008, since the house does not release its wines until 10 years after bottling. 34 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
At first, Eugène-Aimé Salon shared his production with his friends, but his Champagne was of such a quality that its reputation spread and the demand required him to step up to a commercially viable operation. Salon himself would see some 40-odd vintages before his death in 1943. He left the business to his nephew and in 1963 Besserat de Bellefon took it over before selling it 15 years later to Champagne Laurent-Perrier. As a single cru, unblended Champagne made from a single variety, Salon is essentially a grower’s Champagne. As Richard Juhlin, the most knowledgeable writer on the subject, says in his book 2000 Champagnes, “Salon may be the best grower of all, but the success shows that Selosse, Diebolt and Charlemagne are all on the right course after all. When even the master of the blend — Krug — made a monocru Champagne from Le Mesnil, it became harder for the major companies to sing the praises of blending in such dogmatic fashion.” Once in your life, you should treat yourself to a bottle of Salon. If you drink it all yourself, I wouldn’t blame you. But perhaps you should consult your bank manager first. The average price around the world in Canadian dollars is $750 a bottle. (And give a thought to poor Richard Juhlin who had to taste and rate out of 100 points, 2000 Champagnes!) × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
XAD FEATA CHEESE IN FOLDER
XAD 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
THE Cab to put on your table, period.
CHARLES SMITH IN FOLDER “ � Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith