The Mughal Research Packet by Paige Carpenter

THE MUGHAL PAIGE CARPENTER

LATE 17

MUGHAL THLORD

– EARLY 18

CENTURY INDIA

A childhood love that has grown with me, a love of India and Hinduism and Desi culture that I can finally express with all the care it deserves. I was particularly excited to costume the Mughal Dynasty because during this period, India was conquered by Muslims essentially combining all of my top favourite cultures; Persian, Turkish, Mongols, Islamic, and Indian. Sadly, from my readings about the history of this period, not much in terms of art and clothing survives and the art that does survive is even more scattered in terms of showing clothing and fashion of the time especially of the men. For this costume, I had two starting point paintings that I relied heavily on for historical accuracy. They were blah blah blah dated blah and blah blah blah dated blah which can be found on the next pages. They are the closest I could find to being fashion figures of the time and even then, because of the typical Indian stylization that is almost ancient Egyptian in terms of pose and detail leaving me to try to decipher the language the clothing and the art spoke. Thankfully, many texts survive and I read as much about the history of this period as I could to get a full understanding of the politics that influenced the culture that these people had to live through. The specific costume I created is designed to be an upper-‐class man, possibly a politician, an ambassador, or an aristocrat of a wealthy home. Not a prince but a man with influence in his realm as indicated by his gorgeous talwar, his fashionable jama and the hand made khussa, but his comparably “small” amount of jewels (which is still an abundance). Even the way his jama is tied also lends to his religion, that of Hinduism and a native Indian (the jama is tied to the right) rather than an Islamic foreigner (the jama is tied to the left). He is dignified, stately and would fit in smoothly amongst Hindu temples and Mosques, the women in delicately embroidered sari, amazing bazaars and famous Mughal gardens in a richly saturated world that this man would live in.

MUGHAL CULTURE AND ART

Four Portraits: Leaf from the Shah Jahan Album, Mughal, period of Jahangir (1605– 27), ca. 1610–15 By Balchand, Daulat, Murad India Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper

"Jahangir Wearing a Tie-‐dyed Patka" (circa 1620) Muraqqa: Imperial Mughal Albums From the Chester Beatty Library, Dublin

"Mourad Bakche, imperial prince, son of Shah Djehan and brother of Aureng Zeb," an engraving by Albert Racinet, Paris, 1878

The Glorification of Akbar: Leaf from the Shah Jahan Album, Mughal, period of Jahangir (1605–27) Attributed to Govardhan Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper

Detail of Shah Jahan on a Terrace Holding a Pendant Set with His Portrait, 1627/28. Mughal.

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Clothing from India. Patterns by Uncle Rashid via “The Canton of Gleann nam Feòrag Dhuibhe”

Moghul Coat, Moghul Coat variations -‐ This pattern and the two variations found on the second link are derived from my original Persian "mongol" coat pattern which was called that because it seems to have been derived from Central Asian and Mongol influence rather than being purely Persian. Where the moghul part comes in is that is what the Indians called the branch of the Timurid Mongols (descended from Timur, known to westerners as Tamerlane) that conquered large portions of northwestern India in the 16th and 17th centuries. This coat is the standard male garment seen in the illuminations of Moghul art. The coat is sometimes called a Jama. Salwar -‐ pants; use linen or cotton

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A RARE HORSE-‐HILTED DAGGER AND RELATED TALWAR AND SCABBARD, INDIA, 18TH-‐19TH CENTURY. The curved tapering steel blade with central ridge, the hilt with scroll quillons and pommel rendered in the form of a horse’s head with mane to one side and bridle, chiselled and decorated with an all over design of gold scrolling vine issuing flowerheads and split-‐palmettes against a silver ground; the slightly curved steel blade with flat back edge, short cross quillons and hilt in characteristic talwar form wholly inlaid in gold and silver with chevronpattern and vegetal motifs, the fabric covered wood scabbard. (Islamic Arts & Architexture)

A MUGHAL JADE-‐HILTED SWORD WITH GILT-‐MOUNTED SCABBARD, INDIA, 17TH CENTURY AND LATER The slender and slightly curved blade of watered-‐steel with gold inlaid inscriptions in lobed cartouches and a talismanic square at the forte, the lightgreenjade hilt with rounded pommel carved with stylised floral motifs and copper quillons engraved with fine floral pattern, the cloth-‐covered wood scabbard with engraved copper ensuite chape and lock, with one suspension loop. (Islamic Arts & Architexture)

A JEWELLED SWORD TALWAR, RAJASTHAN, INDIA, EARLY 19TH CENTURY The slightly curved steel blade with raised edge and fullers struck at forte with three talismanic dots on either side, the gilded-‐silver hilt with characteristic broad pommel and hemispherical quillon terminals, wholly embellished in green and blue enamel and set with thirty-‐three gems including rubies and white sapphires, devanagari inscription to flat edge of blade at forte, velvet-‐covered wood scabbard with later addition of gilt braid (Islamic Arts & Architexture).

A FINE AND EXCEPTIONALLY RARE JADE-‐HILTED TALWAR, INDIA, 17TH CENTURY The slightly curved finely-‐watered steel blade with jade hilt of light-‐green colour carved exquisitely in the form of budding lotus flower with a narrow grip, disc pommel and broad basket guard, the cloth-‐covered wood scabbard with ensuite gold repoussé chape and lock decorated with elephant, camel and deers in procession, scale-‐ patterning and palmette arcades. (Islamic Arts & Architexture)

A fine and rare Mughal Shamshir with a gold Tulwar hilt. At 95cms overall, this sabre is of fine proportions. The blade is 83cms in a straight line from tip to centre of the forte. The Tulwar hilts is profusely decorated with gold floral designs to most surfaces. The inside of the knuckle bow shows a band of chevrons. The deeply curved blade is of a fine wootz construction with natural occurring ladders seen in the forte. The blade is signed in gold to one side and shows the remains of script along the top of one side, now worn with age, likely a prayer or dedication. (Swords and Antique Weapons)

A nice complete Indian Tulwar / Talwar with Wootz blade. This early Wootz blades Tulwar is 80cms long in the scabbard, just under 79cms out with a blade length just over 67cms. The hilt is an unsual all steel variety with a fully chiseled surface. The surfaces display floral patterns in high relief with a blackened back ground. The Wootz blade is of a nice form with a raised back edge approx 22cms long shows what appears to be a cold forged scarf weld approx half way along the blade. The original scabbard remains in very healthy conditon free of splits or timber losses and shows leather wear from age and use. A very nice, unusual and complete Wootz bladed Tulwar at a very good price. (Swords and Antique Weapons)

CITATIONS

Airavat. "Military History of India." : Guerrilla Warfare-‐III (horses and Swords). Blogspot, Dec. 2006. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Harwood, Anne. "GOSHAENUR." GOSHAENUR. The Scholars of St. Thomas Aquinas, 2008. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Hill, Daniel D., and JoAnne Eicher. History of World Costume and Fashion. N.p.: Prentice Hall PTR, 2010. 231-‐43. Print. Ishwaryaa22. "Mughal Jewelry ~ Royal and Antique Jewelry of North India."HubPages. N.p., 2012. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Islamic-‐arts.org Team. "Arms and Armour Collection." Islamic Arts and Architecture. Islamic Arts and Architecture, 14 Apr. 2012. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Pathak, Anamika. Indian Costumes. New Delhi: Roli, 2006. Print. Regan, Paula. Weapon: A Visual History of Arms and Armor. New York: DK Pub., 2010. N. pag. Print. "Swords and Antique Weapons for Sale -‐ International." Swords and Antique Weapons for Sale -‐ International. N.p., 2012. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Uncle Rashid. "Gleann Nam FeÃ²rag Dhuibhe -‐ Garb Workshops." Gleann Nam FeÃ²rag Dhuibhe. Canton of Gleann Nam Feòrag Dhuibhe, 24 Mar. 2006. Web. 13 Jan. 2013.