A14 March 27, 2013 The Richmond News
RESTAURANTS
Old, new tastes coexist along Steveston’s streets BY MICHELLE HOPKINS Special to the News
Steveston was a lot different 35 years ago when one of its original restaurants opened its doors on Moncton Street. The landmark Steveston Seafood House has been a local favourite for those craving its signature entrees such as the Garry Point platter, a medley of halibut, prawns, scallops and shrimp sautéed and served in a New Orleans cream sauce, or the wild salmon in a white wine dill sauce. Stevestonite Shane Dagan bought the restaurant 5 and a half years ago, after working for the former owner as a 15-year-old busboy. In keeping with its moniker, the fine dining restaurant serves up award-winning seafood dishes such as its jambalaya and clam chowder (both won a Vancouver Sun award). Executive chef Sushila Narain has been at the helm of the kitchen for 32 years. As often as possible, she buys locally sourced wild fish in season. Recently, the restaurant received a facelift. “We’ve painted, replaced the
chairs and the linen and we are putting in two eight-foot long modern fireplaces that will be flushed into the wall,” said Dagan, adding that right now, the restaurant is featuring its yearly lobster festival. As well, Dagan replaced the lighting for some contemporary new chandeliers and added new art work. One of the village’s first ethnic restaurants, Kisamos Taverna, has changed ownership. Serving authentic Greek cuisine since 1997, Kisamos was recently bought by longtime Vancouver chef Marino Anagnostopoulos. Originally from Kalamata, Greece, the executive chef comes from a long line of restaurateurs. He honed his culinary skills watching his grandmother and mother cook up such timeless dishes as moussaka, souvlakia and roast lamb. The affable chef said he chose Steveston because “it reminds me of the village I grew up in in Greece.” “I’d been looking for an eatery to buy for a long time, so when I heard Kisamos was for sale, I bought it,” he said. Although Anagnostopoulos
MICHELLE HOPKINS SPECIAL TO THE NEWS
Steveston Seafood House, owned by Shane Dagan, has been a staple on Moncton Street for 35 years. It’s one of the street’s original restaurants.
has not made many changes to the original menu, on weekends the chef features his own specials, such as his family recipes for Cornish game hen and seafood casserole.
Many of the employees are also the same friendly faces that have been there for years. Executive chef Kulvinder Toor has been there since it opened and
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kitchen helper Harjit Kaur has been there for 13 years. Anagnostopoulos looks forward to welcoming loyal clientele and promises that those popular dishes Kisamos clients have enjoyed for years will remain on the menu. Just slightly off the beaten path is Caesars Bar & Grill. Nearly four years ago, another longtime Vancouver restaurateur, David Koonar, was lured by the beauty and uniqueness of Steveston. “I owned a number of different Vancouver eateries over the years, but I was looking to relocate and fell in love with Steveston,” said Koonar. Two years ago, he brought on board a young exciting executive chef, Ronnie Poon, who is creating some buzz with her fusion cooking. A Red Seal certified chef since 2011, Poon sources local produce and fish in season. The Steveston resident’s newest dish, a pan seared wild salmon in a miso broth and bok choy bean sprouts, tomatoes and pea pods is garnering rave reviews. The lamb osso bucco falls off the fork — it’s that tender.
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