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111 Kyle Kushman 58 10 47 105
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44 the herbalizer 85 Cannabis indica
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Cannabis cultivation by: mel thomas
_______________________________________ A Note from the editor: Welcome to Plant the Land; A publication for connoisseurs. Each month you can expect stunning photography, discover unique and traditional horticultural techniques, and read interviews and contributions from various individuals including seed breeders, growers, & hash-masters. You can look forward to our publication on the 1st of each month, found on http://www.PlanttheLand.com. Content: Cultivation Techniques Plant Science Education Concentrate production Edible Recipes Clinical & PreClinical Research Interviews
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"......it's just Jedi shit man!......" In the Spring of 2010 my health began to mysteriously deteriorate. Up until then, I was a strong and vibrant man in my mid-thirties living a clean and honest lifestyle deep in the woods of the Upper Mid-West. I awoke one rainy Spring morning suddenly unable to walk, balance gone, searing pain on the left side of my head above my ear. Soon after came full-body muscle spasms and partial paralysis of my right arm, my left foot dropping lifelessly. My body, twitching and trembling with weakness was engulfed in pain. Spirit shaken, mind overcome with fear. My first thought was brain tumor.......and so the testing began. Countless doctors, tests, and pain-filled sleepless nights became my reality. After 6 months of crippling pain and anxiety my diagnoses was finally revealed - Stage 3 Disseminated Lyme Disease. My Life forever changed. Fast forward 12 months, sparing the details of the most challenging and painful days of this journey to date....... I was virtually lifeless, utterly broken I found myself standing at a crossroads. One path the proverbial "End", the other dimly lit by a distant light...... Faith.......Faith revealed......The Cannabis Plant. She was my beacon, the answer to my suffering. Through her, my new life was about to begin. Thrust into the reality of being a very ill patient whom has never grown Cannabis indoors under artificial light, I took the first logical steps. I emptied a closet, hung a salvaged 400 watt HPS unit, punched some 4 inch vents through the wall, added a few small fans, and sprouted some seeds in organic potting soil. My healing journey began, and the simple act of growing Cannabis quickly became my medicine! However within just a few weeks into my virgin grow, I watched in HORROR as my plants happily grew out of control into my lights, I was faced with the reality of learning some serious LST (low stress training), bonsai, or bondage techniques, and fast! Or risk starting over, which i was determined to avoid. I learned a hell of a lot from that first grow, and if memory serves, harvested 4 lids of some very high quality medicine. In retrospect, the knowledge I gained having to severely bond, torture, and control my poor little plants was of even greater value. For one, I aquired a huge amount of respect and appreciation for what the Cannabis plant was capable of enduring in the way of training. Secondly, though I didn't know it then, I started off on what would ultimately become a SERIOUS obsession......the Art of maximizing efficiency and the quest for the perfect canopy. It was the perfect project for my O.C.D, or what i like to call it, "O.C.A.....Obsessive Compulsive Advantage!"
Mainlining was born!
Mainlining Definition: a training and canopy management method for growing Cannabis that builds a "hub" originating from a single node, thus creating a symmetrical manifold for equal energy distribution from the root mass to the growing tops. The root mass indiscriminately distributing energy allowing the plant as a whole to operate in an extremely efficient manner.
Mainlining Cannabis is simple.....hell, growing Cannabis is simple. The Cannabis growing industry has run amuck with dis-information via corporate profit motive. Confusion and intimidation the name of the game. We can get into the industry "dynamics" another time.....(sigh)..... It is a plant after all, a very efficient plant that has evolved without human companionship for 30 million years, a plant with SIMPLE needs. Little in the way of equipment, Organic soil and nutrients, clean water and some common sense is all that is needed to grow your own high quality medication. As any newbie patient grower I was faced with a steep learning curve from the beginning. Becoming efficient at the process while establishing my communication skills (with the plant) were my priorities. Utilizing the K.I.S.S theory to help strip away all that does not work or complicate the process in any way. Elementally breaking down the fundamentals, testing theory, making tweaks. Repeat....Ever watching, feeling, and listening from within to what the Cannabis Plant was gently prodding me to absorb.....using Logic as a tool, but ultimately learning how to grow from the Heart.
"when growing Cannabis, less is best.....and less than less is better..."
So, how does Mainlining work?
Increasing output and quality by increasing efficiency within a given space is what it all boils down to. Mainlining is about growing BIG colas. Consistent in size, shape, density, and overall quality. In order to do this, FIRST we must focus on the Stems, with emphasis on "big" and "consistent".
Personally, this is where I think Mainlining really shines. Because the energy from the root mass is delivered in such an equal and efficient manner, and the terminal colas are all at the same height gathering equal light, the cola stems become much thicker and stiffer overall. They attain a larger diameter, thus increasing the vascular cambium surface area critical to growing very large, dense flowers. It is this paper thin membrane (cambium layer) beneath the bark, or the "inner bark" if you will, that is responsible for moving water and nutrients to the hungry, growing plant cells. The more surface area the better, and the more efficient the plant will become at moving nutrients from the root mass to the growing tops. Because most of the plants energy is devoted to growing multiple "meristems" and not secondary axial growth within the understory, (see "Mainlining Refined") a Mainlined plant grows much more rigid and stronger overall. Almost as if the stems had bamboo built within their structure. This is helpful when growing delicate stemmed genetics, or particular plants that are prone to "bud-flop".
This can also be beneficial for outdoor plants that are exposed to harsh conditions such as high winds or heavy rains. The Mainlined plant needs much less in the way of external support, even with the added mass of the larger/denser colas.
NEXT In order to maximize potential, we need to put the tops (colas) in the "hot-zone", the area below the lights where the light is the brightest, most consistent, and ideal for growing big flowers. And the best way to achieve this is by creating a flat canopy! Ideally we want all the colas at the same height absorbing light evenly and also each one given the same area (within the footprint) to grow. When building a foundation of 4, 8, 16, or even 32 colas, all the growing tops on the Mainlined plant originate from the same lateral plane, a flat even canopy is the result. A flat canopy can also be advantageous in properly filling a SCROG or when growing larger plants under the Sun that ultimately require a screen for supplemental support.
Other Advantages (and Disadvantages) of Mainlining Yield, overall quality and bud density increases along with plant efficiency and potential, but this is only the beginning. The amount of "larfy" or "popcorn" bud drops considerably. I have heard Ed Rosenthal say "fluff is for pillows", and I whole-heartedly agree. Less larf means more top shelf weight overall. Time invested into manicuring buds at harvest can be cut nearly in half, keeping bud trimmers happy and productive!
Because energy is distributed evenly to multiple tops, Mainlined plants are generally shorter and more stout overall than their traditionally grown counterparts. This feature is bonus for those utilizing grow spaces with height restrictions (8 ft. ceilings or lower), or for those who prefer smaller more manageable "patio" plants. Smaller statured plants can be valuable to growers confined to wheelchairs or with other disabilities that require the use of raised beds thus limiting ceiling height even further. "Guerilla" gardeners may benefit from shorter/stouter plants with a stronger overall structure better suited for the elements. They can also offer a less conspicuous profile lending the plant to blending into the surrounding landscape.
By removing the original "Main" or meristem and building a manifold that spreads out the vertical growth, the center of the plant is opened up thus facilitating increased air flow. For outdoor gardeners who grow in areas of high humidity and heavy dew, this can be crucial to success by helping prevent mold and mildew. Extra ventilation within the center of the plant can be appreciated by indoor gardener as well.
In my opinion, the advantages to Mainlining greatly out weight the disadvantages, but there are a few worth mentioning. This method may not be suited to growers who prefer using their "larfy" material to make hash and oil as Mainlined plants produce so little, turning the hash or oil aficionado back towards traditional methods.
One of the biggest drawbacks (for some) to Mainlining is it can take an average of 5-20 days of additional "veg" time to properly build a manifold, so it may not be desirable for gardeners who prefer to keep their veg times as short as possible. However, most growers I know are operating a perpetual cycled system, therefore the time investment happens at the beginning of the cycle and once the added time is allotted for and integrated into the grow, it simply becomes part of the system as a whole. In other words, I look at it as a one-time investment front-loaded into the beginning of the perpetual cycle. Please note: The more the Mainlining method is practiced and mastered, the more "extra" time can be shaved off the process. I have built proper manifolds and had plants ready to flower in the same amount of time as its traditionally grown "topped" siblings. Much of this has to do with a deeper understanding of when and how to prune, and this can only be garnered by experience and a willingness to listen to the plant tell you when she is ready to be pruned and bonded.
There are also some strains that do not respond to Mainlining as well as others. Strains that possess substantial hybrid vigor and those that exhibit "single-cola dominant structure" characteristics perform the best. Often these are Indica leaning hybrid crosses, but not always. I have had enormous success Mainlining certain Sativa dominant plants, one must try the method on each individual strain or phenotype to see for themselves.
The last possible disadvantage, especially for outdoor growers, is the susceptibility of the main "hub" to split along its vertical axis if the plant is left to grow too tall and heavy and left unsupported. I have found that a simple Canopy Ring (see "Mainlining Refined") built from a heavy tomato or peony cage, heavy stakes or a hoop of galvanized wire fencing can provide the necessary support to avoid this potential problem.
The Method I get asked all the time to write a detailed description of the process including what day to do "this" and what day to do "that". The reason it has never happened is very simple. All strains and even different phenotypes of the same strain can react differently to the process. Couple this with a multitude of differing growing environments and styles or even things such as light intensity, nutrient delivery, and even temperature and it quickly becomes clear why such an effort would be futile. I believe the use of poignant images coupled with an explanation of how I choose to do it is the most efficient way to teach the Mainlining concept, but we will have to leave the dates and times to Mother Nature. Understand that in order to experience all that Mainlining has to offer, one must possess a fair understanding of basic Cannabis physiology and growth patterns. The best Mainliners are simple to spot, they are the ones with the green thumbs, he-he.... That being said, it is a simple process that anyone can do. So without further ado, here is how it is done. I plant seed directly into rapid rooters, and bury them in a quart sized pot of organic base soil. I will grow the seedling under constant light until it begins to work on growing it's 6th or 7th true node. At that time I flip to 12/12 for up to 8 days until the sex is revealed (not necessary) as I prefer to know what I am working with. At that time she is about 10 inches tall or so. I top the main, and remove everything but 2 nodes with 4 large corresponding fan leaves. She is pruned for TWO! (the two main leads originating from the 'hub", and two clones on the lower node).
At this time the plant is up-potted into a 2 gallon container, and the ENTIRE mainlining process (manifold for EIGHT or SIXTEEN) will be built in this pot. After she recovers from the transplant, the 4 leads (2 on the "hub, and 2 clones) will begin to grow and stretch. The two lower leads (from the lower node) will be grown until they are ideal clone length and removed when they are perfectly ready. The upper node is the main "hub" and I let the two leaders stretch until they reach the desired length. She is pruned for FOUR and the clones are often removed simultaneously. The two mains are lightly bonded at this time.
I prefer to place the cuts in a rapid rooter (dipped in Clonex), buried in base soil in a quart deli cup with a matching dome because this method offers almost 100% success rate. Also note: the main reason why i choose to take such early clones is because they are still in a symmetrical branching pattern (please see "Mainlining Refined") and can be treated exactly like young plants from seed to continue the Mainlining process! How cool is THAT?
The length I let the two leads stretch may vary depending on the desired overall size of the manifold (ex: I may want a wider overall framework for a larger plant). Often, I may want them longer and may need them to grow out a few more "node-lengths" (to be removed when she is pruned for FOUR!). Note the longer width of the hub on the larger plant.
As you can see, coated 14 gauge electrical wire is used for simple bondage utilizing holes drilled or poked around the rim of the pot. (I will cover super-cropping and basic plant bending strategy in "Mainlining Refined"). The process is repeated until she is pruned for EIGHT and sometimes SIXTEEN depending on how many colas I want her to finish with. Notice how she is still in a symmetrical growth pattern, this is not always the case especially working with clones (see "Mainlining Refined").
Examples of SIXTEEN headed Mainlines about 5-7 days after being pruned for 16, freshly bonded.
Examples of SIXTEEN headed Mainlines recovered (usually 1-2 days after bondage)
Once the plant is pruned for the desired number of mains (usually 8 or 16) it can be gently transplanted into her final flower pot. It is FULL THROTTLE from here on out! These plants are ready to rip! Pretty simple stuff huh?!
When to Flip? The Canopy Ring and Managing the Stretch! A common question from new growers is "how do you know when to flip?" When is the optimum time to switch from a vegetative cycle to the flowering cycle?...the answer is simple, and it pertains to all Cannabis plants regardless if they are Mainlined or not....when the roots are ready! "Big roots make for big fruits" as the saying goes. After transplanting the newly Mainlined plant into her final flowering pot, she will use her existing foliage to convert light energy into growing a healthy root mass suitable for growing large flowers, and with any freshly transplanted plant this will take a little time. During this period, the above ground growth will be slowed a bit while the plant focuses on filling her new pot with feeder roots. When up-potting from a 2 gal to say a 5 or 7 gallon pot for flowering, I usually give her about 14 days or so to "hit her stride" but the actual time is irrelevant. If you watch the plant closely, you will notice the DAY she decides her root mass is sufficient in her new home, and she will explode with new foliar growth. I usually let her "get her freak on" for about 3 days, and then flip her to 12/12. At this time I will add what I consider to be a game changer to the equation, the Canopy Ring!
The Canopy ring, as I like to call it is simply a heavy duty galvanized modified tomato or peony cage. By modified I mean everything but the legs and top hoop are clipped out with a bolt cutters, and short "feet" are bent on the legs to prevent it from poking through the pot or pulling out of the soil. Although my hoops average about 16 inches in diameter, and 24 inches tall depending on the strain I am growing. I do have some taller ones kicking around for those long legged gals! The Canopy Ring is invaluable to the Mainline grower and offers much more than simple lateral canopy support. It is a means of opening up and spreading the plant out giving each cola the perfect amount of ventilation and space to reach its full potential. As an added bonus, coupled with soft plant ties, the grower can quickly and effortlessly modify the plants footprint by simply sliding the stem(s) along the perimeter of the ring changing the shape of the plant! This can prove extremely valuable when "puzzle piecing" plants into a defined space! You have a square space to fill? Make a square! Triangle? Make one! That pesky diamond space in the middle of the room? BOOM! Done!
When managing the "stretch" on a Mainlined plant, the object is to keep the vertical growth as even as possible, and we do this with the help of a couple little tricks. Using the canopy ring, there will be a few colas that occupy the center of the ring, and the rest are tied around the perimeter with soft ties. As the leaders are stretching, simply guide the taller ones to the outside of the ring, and the shorter ones to the inside. This technique coupled with a little super-cropping here and there, and you will be staring at a perfectly level canopy 21 days (avg) after flipping to 12/12!....Easy!
The colas occupying the center of the ring may need a stick or two of bamboo to hold them steady as they get crazy phat! But other than that, Mainlined plants need very little in the way of external support, and now that they are done stretching, it is "set it and forget it" the rest of the way! Roll a well deserved spliff, sit back, and watch those Mainlined colas pack on the mass!
Mainlining FTMFW!
Mainlining Refined Mainlining Clones If Mainlining could be described using one word, that word would be Symmetry. After all, symmetry is essential when building the manifold, and we use the symmetrical growth pattern of the seedling and young plant to build it properly. So what do we do when working with clones or a plant that decides to go into an asymmetrical branching pattern before the manifold is complete? Again the answer is a simple one.....Suppression. When the plant is pruned while asymmetrical, there will be a dominant and subordinate leader. A simple pinch and bend (super-cropping) is all it takes to sway the balance of dominance, and it usually only takes one round to equalize the two.
Super-Cropping Super-cropping is often used in Mainlining to temporarily suppress the growth of a "main" that has grown taller than the rest. It is simple. Use your thumb nail to pinch the inside of the bend 3 or 4 times using moderate pressure to enable the area to withstand the severe bend. It is very important to get a good pinch on the stem before bending to prevent it from snapping. It is alright if the outside of the bend splits a little longitudinally, what we want to avoid is a perpendicular break. If that happens, simply tape it up and let it heal.
Pruning the Understory Whether Mainlining or utilizing other methods of training, do yourself a favor and prune out the secondary growth (understory) not receiving sufficient light. If it is not in the "hot-zone" get rid of it. This material will rob energy away from growing colas. I prune heavily, leaving about 12-20 inches of finish cola stem to pack on mass. "Get yourself a slow masticating juicer, and juice ALL your trimmings!.....Here's to your health!...Cheers!"
Timing of Pruning Please be sure the plant has a substantial root system established before embarking on the Mainlining process to avoid stunting the poor plant! I have seen beginners (and selfanointed professionals) severely prune back plants that have recently been transplanted. Or even worse newly rooted clones hacked back and expected to thrive. FAIL! Use common sense!
Important X-tras Don't be afraid to aggressively manipulate or bond your plants. The Cannabis plant is extremely tenacious and fast healing. I tweak my girls often. A little super-crop here, or twist and snap or bondage over there. Esp. through the first 21 days of flower. Sometimes it takes an aggressive approach to reach the desired results when creating a flat canopy. Learning how to achieve this in a gentle but assertive way is essential. Approach your plants with Love, and they will not only be forgiving, but heal and respond very quickly. And finally, anytime you prune, be sure to leave a big healthy fan leaf below the axial growth you want to promote. The corresponding fan leaf is the solar panel for the axial sprout directly above it, so we want it big and healthy to promote fast and vigorous growth! Conclusion It has been 4 years this Spring since my first symptoms of Chronic Lyme Disease. Since then I have been working symbiotically with the Cannabis Plant to perfect the Mainlining process so I can offer it to the community, healing my body, mind and Spirit every step of the way. But this body of work has so little to do with me personally. This is simply one of the many gifts from the Cannabis plant selflessly given to a suffering Man. I can honestly say that if not for the grace and generosity of this Life giving plant, I would not be alive to share this knowledge. But I believe the biggest lesson of all this great Being has to teach us is unconditional, non-judgmental, selfless LOVE. All things are possible with Love. Please take this lesson from the Cannabis plant into your heart and integrate Compassion and Love into your reality. Please take time to help someone less fortunate than yourself. If you are a grower, give freely a portion of your harvest to someone unable to afford it. There is simply not enough Cannabis medicine available for the sick and less fortunate. She has selflessly given us so much, it is up to all of us as a community to return the favor. Only through Love and Compassion will we see significant positive Change in this reality. Then and only then will the Cannabis Plant and Man symbiotically reach their full potential......Together. Live/Love,
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herbalizer, the volcano killer What is all the hype about the Herbalizer? Why is this particular device being called the Volcano Killer? Read on and discover why this is our choice for an elite vaporizer. We will also cover Cannabinoids, Terpenoids, and Flavonoids. What key roles do these compounds play in our experience with cannabis? What method is best to achieve activation and why is this all important? The significance is incredible and understanding this concept will change the connoisseur’s relationship with the cannabis plant. The Herbalizer is the next-generation vaporizer, which is a “smokeless” delivery system that can be used for cannabis inhalation. Vaporization uses a flow of hot air ranging from 121 -232 ° C (250-450° F) rather than a flame, to release cannabinoids and other compounds found in cannabis into a pure, healthy and flavorful vapor that can be inhaled. The resulting vapor contain no tars, hydrocarbons, benzene, carbon monoxide, or other toxic pyrolytic gases and by products of combustion. In other words, you obtain all “beneficials” without compromise. This fact alone may be appealing to the health-conscious individual but the following information can transform the way we all look at medicating with cannabis. Many of the compounds in cannabis are in fact free radical scavengers. Studies show that many; if not all of the negative effects resulting from the combustion of cannabis are countered by the plant’s medicinal properties. This is why there are so many people that smoke cannabis but there remains to be no documented cancer cases solely from cannabis inhalation. So why vaporize when it appears there are only relatively minor & infrequent reports of negative health effects? Well if it isn’t convincing enough knowing vaporized cannabis contains none of the unwanted by-products of combustion, the authors of a study at the Journal of Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics stated that “the immediate
herbalizer, the volcano killer
concentrations of cannabinoids were found to be measurably higher in vaporized cannabis compared to smoked cannabis when given the same quantity.” Surely, an intriguing discovery. Furthermore, you can even “customize your high” when using a vaporizer that’s precise and consistent. Because all of the plant’s compounds have different activation points, you can vaporize the same cannabis at two different temperatures and experience two, noticeably different highs.
-Here’s how it works: By controlling the temperature perfectly, you can command exactly what you extract from the cannabis because each cannabinoid had a different volitization temperature. For example, THC and CBD vaporize at different temperatures (found on page 19) and each one affects you differently. Moreover, cannabis has 114 cannabinoids, some make you feel stoned, some make you feel energized, some help you sleep, some make you full of conversation, some reduce pain, and so on.
Now, for the first time ever, using the Hebalizer, we can now pick our favorite cannabis compounds and tailor our high. This is truly revolutionary.
I’ve also discovered something else new, the flavor rainbow. Each time I bump the temperature up by just 15°F, instantly a new flavor and aroma is produced, and it not just fascinating but really important. Growers, pay attention – this concept allows for the discovery of an entirely new spectrum of flavors, aromas, and effects about the cannabis you grow. Your herb will never be the same predictable product. If it was phenomenal before, this perspective will expose its true potential. If you are like me and search for only the best cannabis, then you too want the best delivery option.
Product profile: The Herbalizer is made in the US and is designed by two individuals who developed the highest performing supercomputer for NASA satellite control. Yes, seriously. I guess these guys had higher aspirations than designing for space. This “desktop vaporizer” has digital controls and a full-color LCD and a 32-MHz 16-bit processor, an inair temperature sensor, and a 300W quartz halogen heater to deliver heat at the speed of light. So no matter how fast the air is drawn, the precise temperature ensures the activation of cannabis’ specific compounds that are ultimately released into your vapor. Using the Herbalizer, you have versatility; you can choose between the option of the whip with assisted delivery, the balloon, or just “freestyle” directly into the environment. The Herbalizer’s attributes are endless but a few as mentioned above, are why I personally recommend this great product. -------------------------------------
Beginning on page 50 , is a detailed table which displays each compound’s activation point and specific medical value. I hope you all are as thrilled as I first was to participate in this relatively new & fascinating approach. It’s just another benefit we can embrace while medicating with our favorite plant, cannabis.
Cannabinoid, Terpenoid, & Flavonoid Activation  c a n n a b i n o i d s: Cannabinoids are a class of diverse chemical compounds that act on cannabinoid receptors on cells that repress neurotransmitter release in the brain. These cannabinoids are unique to only the cannabis plant. The most notable cannabinoid is the phytocannabinoid (phyto meaning found in the plant) ∆9 tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the primary psychoactive compound of cannabis. Cannabidiol (CBD) is another major constituent of the plant. At this moment, other than THC and CBD, there are at least 83 different cannabinoids isolated from cannabis including Cannabinol (CBN), Cannabigerol (CBG), Tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV), Cannabidivarin (CBDV), & Cannabichromene (CBC). These phyto-cannabinoids, in association with the plants terpenes and flavonoids, are responsible for the relaxation and medicinal benefits resulting from cannabis consumption.  T e r p e n e s : The name "terpene" is derived from the word "turpentine". Found in many plants and even some insects, terpenes or terpenoids are organic chemicals responsible for the aromatic experience we welcome with pleasure when in the company of cannabis and many other plants. Terpenes can be found in pine trees, citris, peppermint, rosemary, black pepper, & lavender among countless other plants that offer distinctive, strong smells. Around 200 terpenes to date have been found in the cannabis plant, some much more prevalent than others. Because of specific measurements, it may now be possible, with a cannabinoid and terpenoid analysis, to accurately verify the genetic lineage of various strains.
Cannabinoid, Terpenoid, & Flavonoid Activation (continued)
As mentioned above, cannabis possesses many of the same terpenes as other plants we cherish because of their desirable fragrances. So we can now understand why we sense the familiar smell of blueberries in DJ Short’s Blueberry or berries in Apothecary Genetic’s Ape Berry. Here is a list of a few common terpenes found in the cannabis plant: Alpha/Beta Pinene (Pine), Myrcene (mangos, tropical fruits, hops), Limonene (fruit peels, rosemary, peppermint), Beta-Caryophyllene (black pepper, Oregeno, cloves), & Linalool (Lavendar). F l a v o n o i d s: The word “flavonoid” derives from the Latin word “flavus” meaning yellow, their color in nature. Flavonoids are widely distributed in plants, fulfilling numerous functions. Flavonoids are the most important plant pigments for flower coloration, giving the color designed to primarily attract animals for pollination. About 20 are found in cannabis, as “free flavonoids and conjugated glycosides”. Apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, orientin, and quercetin exist in many plants; other flavonoids are unique to cannabis, such as “cannflavins”. Flavonoids are polyphenols and have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, and antiviral properties.
Phytocannabinoids Structure
∆-9-Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)
Cannabidiol (CBD)
Cannabinol (CBN)
Cannabichromene (CBC)
Cannabigerol (CBG)
Concentration
Boiling
(% dry weight)
Point °C/F
0.1-25%
0.1-2.89%
0.0-1.6%
0.0-0.65%
0.03-1.15%
Properties
157°C 314.6°F
Euphoriant, Anti-cancer, Analgesic, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Antiemetic
160-180°C 320-356°F
Anti-cancer, Anxiolytic, Analgesic, Antipsychotic, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Antispasmodic
185°C 365°F
220°C 428°F MP 52°C 125.6°F
Δ-8-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ-8-THC)
0.0-0.1%
175-178°C 347-352.4°F
Tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV)
0.0-1.36%
< 220°C <428°F
Oxidation breakdown product, Sedative, Antibiotic
Anti-inflammatory, Antibiotic, Antifungal
Anti-inflammatory, Antibiotic, Antifungal Resembles Δ-9-THC, Less psychoactive, More stable, Antiemetic Analgesic, Euphoriant
Terpenoids Cannabis Constituent Structure*
Concentration† %
β-myrcene
0.47%
β-caryophyllene
Pulegone
119°C 246.2°F
0.14%
177°C 350.6°F
0.002%
198°C 388.4°F
0.001%
224°C 435.2°F
> 0.001%
176°C 348.8°F
1,8-cineole (eucalyptol)
α-pinene
0.04%
α-terpineol
0.02%
Terpineol-4-ol
0.0004% 0.0004%
p-cymene Borneol
0.008%
∆-3-carene
0.004%
Properties
166-168°C Analgesic, Anti-inflammatory, Antibiotic, Anti-mutagenic 330.8-334.4°F
0.05% d-limonene
Linalool
Boiling Point °C/°F
Anti-inflammatory, Cytoprotective (gastric mucosa), Antimalarial Cannabinoid agonist, Immune potentiator, Antidepressant, Antimutagenic Sedative, Antidepressant, Anxiolytic, Immune potentiator Memory booster, AChE inhibitor, Sedative, Antipyretic AChE inhibitor, Increases cerebral blood flow, Stimulant, Antibiotic, Antiviral, Antiinflammatory, Antinociceptive
Anti-inflammatory Bronchodilator Stimulant 156°C Antibiotic Antineoplastic AChE 312.8°F inhibitor 217-218°C Sedative, Antibiotic, AChE inhibitor, Antioxidant, 422.6-424.4°F Antimalarial AChE inhibitor, Antibiotic 209°C 408.2°F Antibiotic, Anticandidal, AChE 177°C inhibitor 350.6°F 210°C Antibiotic 410°F 168°C Anti-inflammatory 338.4°F
Flavonoids Concentration† %
Cannabis Constituent Structure*
Apigenin
> 0.1%
Quercetin
> 0.1%
Cannflavin A
β-sitosterol
0.02%
?
Boiling Point °C/°F
Properties
178°C 352.4°F
Anxiolytic, Anti-inflammatory, Estrogenic
250°C 482°F
Antioxidant, Antimutagenic, Antiviral, Antineoplastic
182°C 359.6°F
COX inhibitor, LO inhibitor
134°C 273.2°F
Anti-inflammatory, 5-a-reductase inhibitor
“Full Melt Dry Sift” By Bubblebags Founder:Bubbleman “Today I'm going to take you through extracting and cleaning your dry sift. I will take you through three separate screens and the process that will help you clean your farmer’s grade hash, which is generally 75% contaminant, sometimes even higher. The first shot is a simple product shot of the box.
Don’t think you need the box to do this, just the screens. The three screens the box uses are a 140u, a 107u, and a 70u. Three screens will give us just the control we need to produce the full-melt dry sift that is in my opinion, the holy grail of Hash.”
So let's open up our bubblebox and get this show starred. If you don't have a bubblebox you can get one at Freshheadies.com and if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not as committed to having the top quality tools you can buy just the screens inside for less than half the price of the box. The box is built to last with birds eye maple and double strength hinges The screens come with a wood cover on top and a set of keys to lock it when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re done using it . You can also get these screens stretched over frames for you at your local silk screener.
So originally I sold this box for people who didn't smoke much hash or make any hash for that matter. I figured they could break up their joints over the screens and collect the resin this way. But really what I was doing was teaching them unwittingly how to make great dry sift. Our top screen on the bubble box is a 140u so the perfect size heads can fall thru. Sure, some strains may have larger heads but generally a 140 is a safe top screen size. Breaking up your nugget into powder is ideal for dry sifting and joint rolling so double bonus, this top screen will keep the majority of the cannabis on the top of the screen while allowing smaller things to fall through. Because we don't have the help of water keeping everything afloat (like with bubblebags) a lot of contaminant will fall thru but that's ok. This is why we use more than one screen.
So because I don't actually smoke joints in gonna card this herb gently over the screen. Making sure to get as much of the resin to fall thru as possible. Remember when you do this you also get a lot of contaminant which will make for even longer cleaning process.
So let's lift the top screen (140u) and see what's fallen through. Remember I just did a super quick run here so my main point here isn't to make a ton, it's to show you how to clean what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve extracted and you will quickly learn the more gently you extract he initial batch he easier it will be to clean up drysift. The second screen is a 107 micron. I also put the screen sizes in LPI which stands for lines per inch.
So here is the material that was carded for a little under 3 minutes and produced a single screen Dry sift. Which to the naked eye looks great. However with the help of my macro lens i am going to LIFE THE VEIL of why most dry sift does NOT MELT.
A little closer on the dry sift and you can see a lot of capitate stalks and cystolith hairs. Ie those long white things. They are non-glandular and non-medicinal. This is a farmers grade sift that desperately needs to be cleaned over some second and third screens, what we can do is place this 140u micron screened hash on top of our secondary 100u micron screen and gently card the material through. I used my ski pass card but any ridged card will do. You must be gentle while doing this.
So now I will place the first screened dry sift on top of my secondary screen 107u is the screen size. What we do now is GENTLY card the resin Back and Forth. This screen may allow everything through which is fine. What it's doing is breaking up the powder to ready it for further cleaning:
So this is basically what you want to do with your single screened drysift. Place it on top of the 107u screen and gently card back and forth. Don't be surprised it all goes through. This is ok. Next screen will clean everything we don't want.
Well I carded it for about 5 minutes and this was what was under my second screen sitting on top of my third 70u screen. Now pretty much everything came through but it made it smoother and more broken down which will make the next steps easier:
I spent 10 minutes on the third screen; 107u micron, gently back and forth pushing all non-glandular material through the screen leaving us with a much cleaner process. I will clean for an additional 5 minutes each time to show you how clean it's getting. This is patient work cleaning your dry sift. Next up a shot of this up close:
After 10 minutes of carding to the trained eye it's cleaner. However. Not clean enough. I'd say easy over 50% contaminant still. Let's get back to work. Did I mention this is an artform and to get a pure product takes PATIENCE and is completely counter intuitive to what you THINK you will need to do. Which is extract hard and heavy (get tons of contaminant) and then clean too much at once which never works).
Well it's just now starting to look better to me at 15minutes of carding over the 70u screen. Still plenty of contaminants but much less than where we started. I would say we are around 35% non-glandular material in this dry sift , clearly we are not done yet. Back to the bubblebox.
Here we have the same material now worked for 20 minutes and you can see its getting cleaner. We are seeing less and less capitate stalks and cystolith hairs and more of a concentration of Glandular trichome heads.
After 25 minutes of patient carding the dry sift is starting to get towards 80% plus pure gland heads. This should now melt in a bowl.
Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s see if it melts in a bowl... loading up with my Skillettool
Pre Melt Macro:
Well itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s melting but nowhere near Full-melting. So we have more work to do. (gotta admit it tasted amazing)
After carding for 30 minutes, the hash is closer to a 90% purity than 80% . Still lots of contaminant but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure the melt will be a little more this time around.
Well itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s definitely still got some plant matter and contaminant in it but the melt factor is higher and the taste was much more concentrated.
Here is a naked eye perspective of the 30 minute carded dry sift. You can see even with the eye there are bits of things that don't belong. I guess we're still not done.
Ok so this is really what we have all been waiting for. The 95% plus pure heads. Getting them cleaner and cleaner and although i can't make a kilo at a time yet.. i can definitely get those heads into a near 99% purity in small amounts.. Here's what i got after 35 minutes of carding gently
Another Macro:
Here's some poured out onto my bubblebox, still a little contaminant in there but damn if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not mostly headies.
How about a PURE HEADS shot. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what we all want to see generally 100% pure glandular trichome heads:
I also wanted to add to this what we cleaned out of all those headies and why dry sift is such a small return. The 70u screen we used will still let gland heads fall through, but they are smaller than 70u and generally not the best of the best. I know people who enjoy their 45u bubble but i personally smoke mostly the 120µ-73µ bubble and that’s where my enjoyment lies. So there will still be some active's under your final screen on the catch plate but they will be best in my opinion for making edibles. Here you see the high percentage of capitate stalks and cystolith hairs with some smaller heads mixed in. This is why most peoples dry sift DOES NOT MELT.
-Another shot of the bottom catch plate. As you can see with multi-screen dry sifting, you do not get the BEST at the bottom of the catch plate. That is reserved for the top of our last screen 70µ.
So as to not leave you with a nasty shot like that for the end of an informative photo essay, i will post one more shot of the bowl Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m about to consume:
Volume 3 Author: St. Oner Review:
“The title does not let us down as it covers the finest Indica strains available with the most stunning photography we’ve seen yet. This edition has the perfect balance of simplicity and significant detail. Once opened, I could not set it down as I and many of my guests were astonished by its unrivaled photography and well investigated strain-coverage. I’ve read a couple books this month for this section of our release and this is one worth publishing, definitely a must see and must read. The strains covered range from the tasty Romulan to dozens of Kush varieties; some newly created and some already wide-spread. No one has covered my favorite sub-species as well as St. Oner. As a grower and genetics collector, this book is of great value. Cannabis Indica is one of the few that has a permanent spot on my table.”
–Plant the Land 2014
Plant the Land was pleased to sit down with TGA Genetics & bring you an exclusive interview: PTL: In your 10 years since TGA's creation, do you have a favorite plant of the 37 varieties? TGA: As with food, over time our tastes go back and forth. MzJill has always been a huge fan of Space Bomb. Subcool always enjoyed smoking Space Bomb as well, but recently his tastes have change to Dr Who in hash form. A couple puffs of Jilly Bean always puts a smile on your face and a bounce in your step! PTL: We love TGA's non-feminized & non-auto-flowering seed-making standards, few breeders have that policy because of the demands in the market. Why is this policy important to you? TGA: Because we believe that feminized seeds are just a marketing ploy aimed at people who don't understand how to do a simple male/female selection from seed. Also feminized seeds can not be used to breed with, this assuring that the companies that produce feminized seeds, can't be copied. As California growers and protectors of the marijuana gene pool, we would not want this unadulterated pollen flying around ruing our wonderful crops. PTL: Subcool and Mz Jill: What were you doing before you started TGA and what made you guys launch the company? TGA: Subcool was involved with the construction industry when the economy took a down turn. He had always been an amateur breeder and had a lot of interest in it, so it seemed the most natural and logical course to follow. MzJill was working as a teaching assistant and raising 3 children as a single mom, while volunteering for people less fortunate. Jill was a medical grower, helping supply medibles and clones to people in need... so the birth of TGA was a new way to reach and help more people.
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PTL: The School of Dank has been a great success not only for education but it also raises money for kids with autism. How is TGA involved? TGA: This is often quite misunderstood. We did not create The School of Dank, we do not handle the funding and we are not a nonprofit. Subcool and Mz Jill had enough notoriety and fan base to be the featured speaker at the first School of Dank. Subcool's name was originally used due to the notoriety. The School of Dank was founded and is managed by Jinx Proof and Miss Rose, who got the idea of helping families of autistic children, as they have an Autistic son. Chernobyl â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TGA Genetics We are very proud to be an ongoing part of this amazing charity. We will be doing our 3rd School of Dank June 24th and 25th, 2014. You can contact The Dank Tank in Seattle Washington or The School of Dank on Face Book for more details. PTL: People commonly consider TGA as the best genetics in seed form and are always anticipating your next move, have you been working on any new projects lately? TGA: We are currently working on several projects, too many too list! However our work now is mainly shifting its focus to the high CBD strains for their medicinal uses. We have pretty much nailed down the super potent high THC strains that include nearly every flavor of the rainbow. Recently we hit 19% CBD and 6% THC in our strain Pennywise. Subcool has just recently created an exciting new cross, using the infamous Pinot Noir from Aficionado Seeds in The Emerald Triangle & crossing it with our TGA Space Queen male, carrying the name of a fine blend of wines -Cuvee. MzJill has a new strain ready for release. It is a cross of Kyle Kushman's Strawberry Cough & our TGA Space Queen male. This strain was made in honor of MzJill's childhood friend who has ALS. This oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for you Brian. Brian Berry Cough!
Storing Seeds: A question often asked by new growers is how to store seeds and how long do seeds in storage remain viable. Essentially the rules to follow are to keep your seeds in a cool dark place using an air tight container. Freezer Some people believe that storing seeds in the freezer is the best way to keep them viable , however the freezing process itself ruptures cells that make up the seed which is why the recommendation is often accompanied with the warning that some seeds will be lost through the process. There are specially designed pieces of laboratory equipment which slowly bring the cell tissue to a freezing temperature however cost effectiveness and availability don't really make them a consideration for most. If you do wish to use your freezer , place the seeds into an air tight or vacuum sealed container with a food grade desiccant satchel before putting them into the freezer.
Refrigerator
A refrigerator is a suitable place to store your seeds though you have to remain cautious about moisture build-up as failure to do so can lead to the loss of your collection. If you want to store your seeds in the fridge place the seeds into an air tight or vacuum sealed container with a food grade desiccant satchel or two before putting them into the fridge. This will help avoid the build up of moisture in the container. Seeds stored in the fridge should remain viable for quite a few years , many have reported success after over 8-10 years storage. Though they will go off eventually and as time goes on you can expect the viability and rate of germination to slow until an eventual failure. Room Temperature For storage lengths of a few years or less, room temperature storage in a dark cool area like a cupboard is satisfactory. If you want to store your seeds at room temperature, place your seeds into an air tight or vacuum sealed container with a food grade desiccant satchel or two before putting them into a cool , dark place. This will help avoid the build up of moisture in the container. Seeds stored at room temperature should remain viable for quite a few years so long as you use an airtight container. Though they will go off eventually and as time goes on you can expect the viability and rate of germination to slow until an eventual failure. Hope this has answered a few initial questions , of course everyone has their own opinions on the topic so always look around for other peoples opinions.
Plant the Land was also honored to sit down with Veganic’s specialist:
Kyle Kushman “Good afternoon Kyle, thank you for taking the time out of your day to sit down with us. I know we appreciate hearing from you and I’m sure our readers do as well.”
PTL: “How long have you been working with Strawberry Cough & what are its origins?” Kyle: “I’ve been growing Strawberry Cough since 2000. She was given to me by a novice grower from Bridgeport Connecticut. It was the first time this grower ever attempted to breed. When he crossed the fabled Strawberry Fields with an intense Haze, the legend was born.” PTL: “Over the years, the cannabis community has been grateful to see a lot of Strawberry Cough and she’s become a favorite among connoisseurs, is she your favorite plant as well, and if so, why?” Kyle: “She has been since day one and still is my favorite. To me it’s the perfect cannabinoid profile for daytime. I get equally focused as I do high. It’s kind of like when using binoculars. You roll that little wheel back and forth to get the focus just right. That’s what Strawberry Cough does for my attitude.” PTL: “As growers ourselves, we’re excited to hear about your new nutrient line; Vegamatrix. Those that are unfamiliar with Veganics, what are the benefits of this clean, plant derived feeding program?”
Kyle: “Organic cultivation is wonderful. But Veganics is better. This is because the nutrition is easier to metabolize. Veganic nutrition is extremely bioavailable without needing decomposition. After plants remove the nutrition from animal excrement you’re left with residue that amounts to poop. When you remove the nutrition from Veganic nutrients, all you’re left with is complex carbohydrates. Which in turn stimulate your beneficial microbes. I like to say, take the poop out your pot. I believe that ten years from now we will be buying Veganic produce in the supermarket. It’s like Thanksgiving dinner vs. Sushi. They’re both good for you. But after eating one, your body needs to relax and produce loads of enzymes so your body can digest and metabolize. But sushi gives you instant energy. Everything you put in is instantly available. Better nutrition absolutely translates to the finished product. As the earth gets dirtier, so does the excrement from animals. Residues of antibiotics, hormones, and pesticides from the grasses and other foods they eat are ever increasing. Veganic nutrients are consistent, clean and 100% free from pathogens and contamination. Healthy plants, healthy people, healthy planet.” PTL: “Among Jurassic Haze, Cherry Lopez, & the Strawberry Cough, you have some great strains in your line-up, in the future, can we expect Kushman’s Genetics in seed banks like the Attitude or will you remain exclusive to dispensaries?” Kyle: “I’m working with Aaron Justis and Tyler Wadleigh on bringing the best of Kushman Genetics to the world.” PTL: “I’m sure you have several projects planned for this year, what’s your main focus for 2014 and what can we expect from Kyle Kushman?” Kyle: “My primary focus right now is to educate the public on the benefits of Veganic cultivation, specifically, why I created Vegamatrix. Kushman Genetics should also be launching several strains by year’s end. I’m also working on a Veganic Growumentary with legend Tommy Chong. It going to be an exciting year. I’m also looking forward to more acceptance and further legalization of cannabis. Please visit my websites www.KyleKushman.com and Vegamatrix.net.”