NoRFoLK PRoDUCE
plums
RECIPE
Roger hickman’s Glazed Duck Breast with Plum Crumble and Pearl Barley SERVES FOUR
Nevertheless, a steady stream of cars arrive, carrying visitors and locals - many of which are clearly regulars. One asks when the Victorias will be ready, and Nina has to explain they will be late this year – although there is a fabulous selection of freshly-picked varieties on offer. As well as the fresh fruit, Nina produces jam, chutney and (a delicious) sweet plum vinegar, ideal for use in oriental cooking. The plum season lasts just a couple of months, but the fruit freezes well, and it’s a healthy and delicious reminder of summer throughout the winter months. I leave with a kilo of beautiful orange-yellow plums and a bottle of vinegar, once again thankful to have met someone who is passionate enough about producing quality food to put in many hours of hard work. Anyone who cares about food should support producers like Nina, not just because they deserve it, but because that is where all the best produce can be found.
Damsons and Greengages LEITH HOUSE has damsons and greengages alongside the plums, and demand remains high for all three. DAMSONS are a sub-species of plum, distinguishable by their slightly astringent taste, which makes them ideal for culinary purposes, especially in fruit preserves. Damson wine was once popular in England, and damson gin can be made in the same way as sloe gin.
INGREDIENTS 2 duck breasts, 100g pearl barley, 1 shallot, olive oil, some shredded confit duck leg, chicken stock, 6 plums, 100g pecan nuts, 100g sugar (plus a little more for roasting the plums), 50ml water, a few chard leaves, 4 spring onions Score the skin of the duck breasts in an ‘x’ pattern. Heat an oven-proof frying pan on the hob, and then seal the duck on its flesh side for a minute or so. Now remove from the heat, turn the breasts over onto their skin side, and roast in an oven at 180°C for seven minutes. Meanwhile, finely chop the shallot, and soften it in some oil. Now add the pearl barley, and ensure it gets coated in the oil as well. Then add enough chicken stock to cover, and heat gently while the pearl barley absorbs the liquid (this is much like making risotto). Add some more chicken stock if necessary. After about 10 minutes, the pearl barley will be done – you want it to have a little crunch. Remove from the heat, and spread on a tray to cool. When you are ready to serve the dish, mix in the shredded duck confit, and reheat in a pan for two minutes. To make the plum crumble, halve two of the plums, and sprinkle with a little sugar. Now bake in the oven at 180°C for 10 minutes, until it starts to wilt. Meanwhile, put the sugar and the water in a pan, and heat until you have a caramel. When it is light golden, take off the heat, and mix in the pecans. Blitz in a food processor until you have a crumble-like mixture. Be careful not to over blitz it, or you will have a powder, which won’t have that crumble crunch. For the plum puree, take the remaining plums, chop into pieces and roast in a pan on the hob with a little sugar and a splash of water until they are totally mushy – around 20 minutes. Blitz in a food processor. To serve, make a pile of the pearl barley/confit mix, halve the duck breast, and serve the roasted plum with the pecan crumble over it. Chargrill your chard and spring onion, and dress the plate with these and the plum puree.
GREENGAGES are another cultivar of plums, first bred in France in the 18th century, and much prized for their rich confectionery flavour – these are superb dessert plums, and make a fine compote.
Roger Hickman is chef-proprietor at Roger Hickman's Restaurant in Upper St Giles, Norwich. More details at www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com
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