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How to get here We are located in Campo de Ourique market. The tram 28 is a nice way to get here from the city centre. Last stop “Prazeres” is only 3 minutes from the market (walking distance). Check out our time table: Monday to Friday – 10 a.m to 4 p.m and 6 p.m to 10 p.m. Saturday – 10 a.m to 10 p.m. Sunday – 12 to 9 p.m. By metro you should stop in Rato (yellow line) and walk through Rua do Sol ao Rato, Rua D.Dinis, Rua Saraiva de Carvalho and Rua Coelho da Rocha (there is a market entrance in this street). It is a nice 20/25 minutes walk, where you can see some interesting buildings, picturesque views or perspectives, or even visit the Fernando Pessoa House (Rua Coelho da Rocha), a museum dedicated to this great Portuguese poet.
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Índice: : s t n e t Con 3 – How to get here 6 – Parceria das Conservas: meaning, concept and “mission” 7 – Atlas of the sea and factories 8 – The Portuguese canned fish tradition 9 – The fishes and the fishing techniques 10 – The Portuguese canned fish today; our offer 11 – Sardines 12 – Mackerel 13 – Tuna 14 – Horse Mackerel 15 – Cod 16 – Octopus and Squid 17 – Eel 18 – Roe 19 – Anchovies 20 – Other fishes 21 – Muxama, botarga and estupeta 22 – Fish patés 23 – How and when – a couple of suggestions for the use of our canned fish 24 – Packages 25 – Facts to remember 26 – Glossary (Portuguese – English)
Ilustration from “Canned Fish From Portugal”; published by Instituto Português de Conservas de Peixe
Parceria das Conservas: meaning, concept and “mission”
Conserva is the Portuguese general word for preserved/canned food; Parceria means partnership, and in the fishermen's tradition all the crew earned according to a partnership based in the catch. The crew has also a strong connection based in solidarity; so for us the word “parceria” has an ethical sense and, in a local development perspective, we promote partnerships with all the different agents, directly or indirectly involved in our business. Parceria das Conservas is located in a stall of Campo de Ourique market (close to tram 28 terminal – Prazeres), a building from the 30s, renewed in 2013. We also participate in several weekend street markets in Lisbon.
Campo de Ourique market
Our stall
Atlas of the sea, the factories and the fishing harbours
With the continent and the Atlantic islands of Madeira and Azores, Portugal has one of the biggest sea areas of the EEC countries. Most of the catches for the canned fish industry come from local fisheries. Long distance fisheries are still also done, special for cod. Fishermen communities or fishermen villages have a strong local character or culture, with their own techniques, boats, vocabulary and symbols. Nowadays the factories' geographical range is somehow reduced when compared to the past and most factories are located in the North (Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, and P贸voa de Varzim).
The Portuguese canned fish tradition
Our sea richness as well as the abundance of salt and olive oil were the basis for a long tradition on production – and exportation – of preserved fish. This tradition started with the Romans and in Troia (near Setúbal – 50Km south of Lisbon) you can find the biggest Roman Empire garum factory settlement known until now. Later the tuna catches along their migratory routes were also an important economical resource. By the end of the nineteenth century a large scale sardines fisheries based in the Portuguese major harbours allowed the implementation of hundreds of canned fish factories and Portugal became one of the world biggest producer for canned fish, recognized also for its high quality.
The fishes and the fishing techniques
Traditionally, sardines, mackerel, horse mackerel, tuna and cod are the main species used by the canned fish industry. Most of them are canned in olive oil, or olive oil and tomato, herbs or traditional sauces or recipes, as “escabeche” (olive oil, vinegar, onions and garlic). However in recent years new species have been used (even salmon!), and new recipes have been successfully tested. Fishing techniques include nets (cerco) for sardines, mackerel, and horse mackerel. For this same species there is also the interesting “xávega” done from ashore. Tuna is cached in Madeira and Azores by a very selective (and ecological!) method using fishing poles, harmless for dolphins.
Tiles with a view of Setúbal fishing harbour
Octopus and eels are trapped in special “cages”. Some species like dourada come from aquaculture. Black scabbard fish and a few other species are cached by hooks in deep waters.
Fisherman from Nazaré (drawing of Maria Vinhal Costa - 1946)
Sardines caught in xávega nets at Fonte da Telha (15 Km south of Lisbon)
The Portuguese canned fish today; our offer
Portuguese canned fish is a renewed tradition and in Parceria das Conservas we are up to date! Here you can find the centenary brands (like Ramirez or Pinhais), or the new VianaPesca or Sesibal, brands from fishermen cooperatives that decided to produce canned fish from their catches or others that were “forgotten” for many years and now reappear (La Rose, Naval, Georgette, Galleon, Porthos). You can find the traditional sardines or mackerel in pure olive oil, side by side with the salmon in lemon and Mediterranean herbs from organic farming and other delicatessen, like sardine roes, who are becoming the Portuguese caviar.
Besides being a very practical and tasty way of eating fish, canned fish is also a healthy food because sardines, mackerel and tuna are very rich in omega 3 and some of our products, as the cod liver, are considered to be a “natural medicine” (very good to have in a toast with white wine, what is impossible to do with a pill!).
Sardines (Sardinhas in PT) Sardines are the “queens” of the Portuguese canned fish tradition. Almost every brand has different presentations or recipes. Normally you can find 4 to 5 sardines in each can, and most of the brands have also the boneless and skinless option (a bit more expensive option). Petingas are small sardines, normally tastier; in a 120g can you might find 8 to 12 of them. As for the presentation or recipes, in olive oil and tomato, you can choose the high quality of Pinhais (Nury) or La Gondola, who work in the “old fashion process” of boiling the fishes before inserting them in the can. However Galleon, La Rose, Luças, Sesibal, VianaPesca, Cocagne, Porthos, Queen of the Coast, Minerva, Manná, Cego do Maio, Comur and Minhota are also good options. Some have sardines with smoked flavour, or with lemon (an excellent combination!). For more exquisite presentations you have them with curry, with pickles, with red or green pepper, with garlic, with oregano or basil; Minerva, Cego do Maio, Galleon and Briosa, are some of the brands that are doing this interesting innovations. But if you like them
natural and with no flavours, Cego do Maio, Cocagne and Queen of the Coast have them canned in nothing but water! Recently La Gondola introduced in the market the French concept of Milléssimés for sardines, who means that the fishes come from selected catches (when they are fatter) and they stay at least 2 years in the cans before they are sent to the market. The longer you kept them the better they get. Some brands (La Gondola, Cego do Maio, Belamar, Galleon, Pinhais, La Rose, Minhota), have also small sardines (petingas).
Mackerel (Cavala in PT)
Mackerel is a very tasty fish; you can find it as a whole fish (if they are small) – some brands called “cavalinhas” to this option – or in filets. Brands like La Gondola and Cego do Maio have mackerel in organic olive oil; these and other brands (Viana Pesca, Rio Azul, Sesibal, Cocagne, Comur, Minerva, Pinhais and Nury), have also other possibilities: regular olive oil, lemon, tomato, spiced, smoked… From the Algarve, Manná has two excellent new options (mustard and Mediterranean) and Georgette recovered a traditional local recipe (cavalas à algarvia).
Tuna
(Atum in PT)
Most of the brands have their own canned tuna. However we recommend the brands from the Azores. Corretora has an old reputation; their tuna in extra virgin olive oil is excellent. Ventresca (also from Corretora) is a part of the fish with a superior quality; the meat is tastier and silkier. Santa Catarina is another brand from the Azores, they also have tuna in olive oil (organic), but they innovate with a few recipes based in herbs (thyme, fennel , oregano), and also in local recipes (molho cru, pimenta, batata-doce). Naval (from conservas Nero) is also a very innovative brand and you can find some interesting – and unique – combinations, like tuna with sea grass, or rosemary, or the unexpected (but excellent!) tuna with olives and ham. For more classic or regular presentations, you have La Rose, La Gondola, Queen of the Coast, Porthos...
Some brands have also cans up 125 g (Corretora, Santa Catarina, Ramirez), that can be a good and cheap option for a several persons' meal.
Horse Mackerel (Carapau in PT)
Horse mackerel, especially in their small size version (called sometimes joaquinzinhos) is a very popular fish in Portugal. Pinhais, Cego do Maio, Briosa, and Mannรก are some of our brands with horse mackerel in their portfolios. Normally it is a fish of intense flavour, not so consensual as sardines or tuna, but if you are a really fish lover, then it is definitely something to try out!
Cod (Bacalhau in PT)
Cod is deeply connected with the Portuguese identity and culture. Most brands have it in olive oil and garlic (the most typical way of having it). However, a few brands have it in regional sauces like the poveira sauce (with onions and vinager). Cego do Maio, La Gondola, Galleon, Naval and Poveira are the top quality brands for cod. We also have cod liver slightly smoked preserved in the liver oil; it is really a delicatessen!
Octopus and Squid (Polvo and Lulas in PT)
As an “introduction� for octopus, the version in olive and garlic from La Gondola, is especially suitable for beginners. Comur has also a smoked version in olive oil. As for squids, La Gondola and Comur have them with very tasty sauces, ideal for eating in a picnic or as starters. Some bread and a glass of wine will do the trick.
Eel
(Enguia in PT)
Comur is the brand specialized in eels. They came from Murtosa, a town located in the heart of Aveiro's lagoon, one of the largest coastal wetlands in Portugal, very well known for its eels. The factory started because there was a long local tradition on a recipe of fried eels with a special sauce, that the local women went to sell in the region's fairs and market, sometimes very far way, deeply inland. In the beginning (1940s), the eels were sold in small wooden barrels. Soon, with the help of a German that moved to Portugal, they also started to produce smoked eels for exportation (and other fishes as well – what was an innovation).
Roe
(Ovas in PT)
Sardine roe is considered to be the Portuguese caviar. Cego do Maio, Galleon, VianaPesca, Manná, Pinhais and Belamar, are some of the brands we have with sardines roes. In Parceria you can also find cod and hake roes (La Gondola) as well as mackerel roes (Manná). They all are in pure olive oil and a few have also hot (spiced) versions. Every year Belamar makes a lamprey roe limited edition. It is quite rare and unique, and we keep a few cans for special clients…
Anchovies
Anchovies are really for fish lovers! As they are very tasty and a bit salted, they can also be used for salads, especially the ones where the tomatoes dominate. And, of course, in pizza. However anchovy maniacs prefer them simply in a toast and with a glass of wine or a beer.
Other fishes
Recently some brands started to use “non-traditional speciesâ€?, and you can find pomfret (Luças), gilthead seabream, meagre, garfish (Belamar), in different options, some with olive and herbs, some with sauces. The black scabbard fish from conservas Nero is one of the most interesting examples, a very soft and white meat in pure olive oil. A perfect marriage between the Land/Earth and the Sea. Salmon is also an innovation in the Portuguese canned fish world, and Georgette from Conservas Nero, in Mediterranean herbs (from organic farming) and olive oil, is also one of the best choices.
Muxama, botarga and estupeta
These are specialties from the Mediterranean/Arabic tradition. In Portugal they are typical from the East Algarve. Muxama is tuna loin dried. It should be cut very thin and served with a few drops of olive oil and lemon. Some people call it the ham of the sea. Estupeta is a mix of several tuna parts in pieces, preserved in brine. It should be washed several times in cold water, and then mixed with tomatoes, red and green peppers, oregano and olive oil. Botarga are tuna dry roes, which you can use as the muxama (slice pieces as a start), or preparing pastas with scraped botarga.
Fish patés
Fish patés are very practical for picnics or starters. We have many brands and specialties, sardine, sardine and olives, mackerel, shrimp, tuna (including Santa Catarina from the Azores). La Gondola and Luças even have trout with Port wine…
How and when – a few suggestion for the use of our canned fish
With such a variety of canned fish offers you can prepare very different dishes. You can make light meals with salads or prepare nice starters or make main courses as well. Corretora and Santa Catarina have large cans and jars of tuna in water, which you can prepare in the oven, with a few drops of olive oil, and Madeira, Port wine or Moscatel (5 minutes). Serve with sweet potatoes (also in the oven). It is cheap, good and original. In our blog you can find a few more suggestions.
Packages
We have several options for gift packages (wood boxes, traditional bags, cardboard boxes); and you are free to create your own selection!
Facts to remember • In Lisbon airport cans of 90g, 120g, 200g or more are allowed to be transported by plane as hand luggage. However preserved fish, olive, olives and other products are not allowed to be transported as hand luggage if they are in glass. • After opening you can keep the canned fish in the fridge for 2 – 3 days, but we recommend you to keep it in a closed glass container. • You can have the canned fish in many ways and occasions. As a starter, with different salads or as a main course. • Canned fish patés, sardines, tuna or mackerels are also excellent options for picnics; a few tomatoes, bread, carrots, sweet onions, and red peppers will be perfect for this experience. Remember that all the olive oil used in the cans can be used for seasoning the vegetables used in the picnic! • You can find some suggestions / recipes in our blog. Nowadays there are also a lot of blogs and sites about culinary that have recipes based in canned fish. • You can keep canned fish stored for years! According to EEC regulations they can last 6 years in the market. However since the longer they are kept the better they get, there are restaurants in France and in Spain that serve canned fish 10 and more years old! • Remember that anchovies are the only exception to the canned fish long term storage, and you should keep them in the fridge, and respect the date indicated in the package.
Glossary (Portuguese – English)
A: Água: water. Alcaparra: small green olives (with no seeds). Alecrim: rosemary. Alface-do-mar: seaweed. Alho: garlic. Anchovas: anchovies. Aroma: flavour. Atum: tuna. Azeite: olive oil. Azeitonas: olives. B: Bacalhau: cod. Biológico: organic. Biqueirão: anchovies. Botarga: dried tuna roes. C: Caldeirada: sauce with tomatoes, onions, white wine, olive oil... Camarão: shrimp. Carapau: horse mackerel. Caril: curry. Cavala: mackerel. Cebola: onion. Chaputa: pomfret. Chocos: cuttlefish. Corvina: meagre. Cravinho: cloves. D: Dourada: gilthead seabream. E: Enguias: eels. Escabeche: sauce with vinegar, onions, olive oil. Especiarias: spice. Espinhas (sem...): boneless. Estupeta: mix of several tuna parts in pieces, preserved in brine. F: Fígado: liver. Filete: fillet. Fumado: smoked. Fumo: smoke. Funcho: fennel. L: Lampreia: lamprey. Limão: lemon. Lulas: squids. M: Mexilhão: mussel. Molho: sauce. Mostarda: mustard. Muxama: tuna loin dried. O: Óleo vegetal: vegetable oil. Orégãos: oregano. Ovas: roe. P: Peixe-agulha: garfish. Peixe-espada: black scabbardfish. Pele (sem...): skinless. Pescada: hake. Petingas: small sardines. Picante: hot, spiced. Picas: garfish. Pimento: pepper. Polvo: octopus. S: Sal: salt. Salmão: salmon. Sardinha: sardine. Segurelha: savory. T: Tomate: tomato. Tomilho: thyme. Truta: trout. V: Ventresca: part of the tuna (belly). Vinho: wine (branco – white; tinto – red).
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