BON ANNIV3RSAIRE PAPERCUT MAGAZINE TURNS 3!
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Cheers to the Anniversary Issue!
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AND HERE COMES ANNABELLE WALLIS We level with the up-and-coming actress (and our cover model) about the industry
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ENCHANTED GARDEN Photography by Abnel Gonzalez
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DAYDREAMER Photography by Alvin Nguyen
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REMIX! Boylston Trading Co. is singing a new retail tune with today's menswear mash-up
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CITY BY THE SEA Photography by Haley Ballard
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Photo by KATYA TSYGANOVA
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PAPERCUT MIXTAPE Adjoa Skinner, Amber Ojeda, Aubergine Machine, Brittany Leo, Brittney Bouchard, Cash L3wis, DV III, Ellen Once Again, Riona MacMahon, G William Boyd, Glacierdon, Jay Lowden, Jenny Simms, Jo Thee Great, Jonathan Blake Salazar, Lonely Trees, Louie Bello, Matt Cusson, Merry Ellen Kirk, Philadelphia Slick, Sarah Shook & The Devil, Seige, The Thrill Collective, The Upset Victory, Thomas Fiss, Tom Jarvis, YDOTK
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COLOUR ME Photography by Kate Strucka
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AUX PASTELS Photography by Kait Robinson
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OUTSHINE Two NYC jewelry designers on the rise
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STEP INTO THE LIGHT Photography by Ian Hooton
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HOW BUNDSHOP IS KILLING "MADE IN CHINA" What you didn't know about Chinese design until now
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AKHARADET Photography by Sara Flego
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WYNE VEEN The Dutch artist contemplates the absurd in our advertising age
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SQUARE REPUBLIK Photography by Emma Geraud
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ANNABELLE Photography by Alvin Nguyen
In This Issue EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Hayley Maybury INTERACTIVE MEDIA DESIGNER Lucy Nersesian COPY EDITOR & FASHION EDITOR Jessica Young CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jamall Oluokun GRAPHIC DESIGNER Margaret Walsh MARKETING DIRECTOR Shomari Miller WEB DEVELOPER Jason DePeaux GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERN Nicole Sullivan EDITORIAL INTERN Jennifer Ortakales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lee Hershey Jamall Oluokun Jessica Young Nora E.S. Gilligan Defne Gencler CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/ PHOTOGRAPHERS Abnel Gonzalez Alvin Nguyen Haley Ballard Kate Strucka Kait Robinson Mark Luebbers Geraldine Baron Ian Hooton Sara Flego Emma Geraud
ON THE COVER Photographed by ALVIN NGUYEN Styling KELVIN SHEAH Makeup and Hair by ERIN SKIPLEY Manicurist KAITLYN MOSHER Model ANNABELLE WALLIS Annabelle wears Black Raffia Cropped Top by BEC & BRIDGE, Printed Skirt by CHRISTIAN COTA, and Star Cuff by AVANT GARDE, Jet Wood by DANIELLE QUELLER.
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WELCOME TO THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE! CHEERS TO THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE!
From The Editor
Papercut has come a long way since its first issue three years ago. Our team is constantly thinking up new ways to improve the magazine, our website and our readers’ experience. When it comes to our anniversary we love to evolve Papercut with a new launch that embraces the latest in digital technology and enhances our content . Last year it was our interactive iPad app and this year it’s a killer new website with a fun redesign!
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This anniversary issue is packed with latest jewelry designers that are making their mark on the NYC fashion scene, art that contemplates the absurd in our daily lives and a Mixtape of our favorite emerging music artists in partnership with ReverbNation! Also, with the rise of China’s creative class, check out our Bundshop feature to learn about the latest startup that’s catering to discerning tastes while promoting elevated Chinese design—it’s definitely a space to watch! We are so lucky to be able to feature and work with so many talented and amazing people. And we look forward to continuing to support the emerging creative community and everything it has to offer! Thanks for another great year Papercutters!!! xx
Hayley Maybury
WANT THE LATEST IN FASHION, ART, CULTURE & NEWS? DON’T FORGET TO VISIT US ON THE WEB
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AND HERE COMES ANNABELLE WALLIS
WE LEVEL WITH THE UP-AND-COMING ACTRESS (AND OUR COVER MODEL) ABOUT THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY'S ROLLER COASTER RIDE AND WHERE SHE PLANS ON LANDING. Interviewed by JAMALL OLUOKUN
JO: WHAT ROLE, POINT IN TIME, OR EVENT WOULD YOU SAY ALLOWED YOU TO CROSS THAT THRESHOLD FROM "WANTING TO BE AN ACTOR" TO "BEING AN ACTOR?” AW: Early on is the most testing. You have no credits in a world that demands experience. You take on any job you are offered to gain knowledge. For me it was my willingness to do whatever it took. To give all of my time to do what I love for no gain. Those early days formed me as an actor, made me into one with a fighting spirit. One that today has the same love and appreciation for it. Any role is a blessing in a world with no guarantee. It is the journey that makes you the actor you want to be. JO: IF ONE WERE TO DO A QUICK IMDB.COM REVIEW FOR YOU, THEY WOULD SEE SOMEONE WHO'S PLAYED ROLES THAT ARE VARIED IN BOTH SCOPE (LEAD, EXTRA, CAMEO, ETC.) AND BROADCAST MEDIUM (NETWORK TV, CABLE TV, FILM, ETC.) IS THIS INTENTIONAL? IS THE STRATEGY “TAKE WHAT I CAN GET” OR IS THERE SOME SELECTION INVOLVED? AW: In the beginning you haven't the luxury of choice. It’s hard work in most cases to get to a point where you can choose. Later in your career it is all about the choices. The decisions you make when you are given that freedom are what will determine your longevity or simply being a flash in the pan. So yes, there is strategy when you start to make headway. JO: WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MAIN DIFFERENCES BETWEEN CABLE AND NETWORK TELEVISION VS FILM? AW: There seems to be more freedom on Cable TV. You are catering to an audience that makes a choice to view your content by paying for it. Therefore the projects emulate that. They feel a little more brave. Network caters for a far larger demographic as its free. Therefore your subjects have to be more appealing to mass culture. There is less of a free reign it feels. The debate over TV or film has never been more relevant. TV is the making of movie stars these days and with shows so narratively rich and intelligent with character arcs that last much longer than films. Never before has it been so appealing to actors. JO: WAS IT DIFFICULT BEING INVOLVED IN THE RISE AND FALL OF PAN AM? GOING INTO IT, DID YOU THINK IT WAS GOING TO BE THE NEXT BIG THING? REVIEWS WERE GOOD AND PEOPLE WERE SAYING IT WAS THE NEXT MAD MEN. WHAT DO YOU THINK HAPPENED? (FYI, THIS WAS ONE OF MY FAVORITE SHOWS AT THE TIME.) 6
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AW: I am a real believer in what’s meant to be will be. Pan Am was pioneering in that it was sold on the premise of strong female characters at the forefront of the lipstick revolution. A big changing point for women in history. That is what attracted all of us to it. It was probably not the right time for it. Who really knows. All I know is that I’ve made friends for life from it and therefore it was worth the up and down. JO: HAVE YOU SEEN SHOWS LIKE NETFLIX'S HOUSE OF CARDS OR BLUE WITH JULIA STILES ON WIGS.COM? WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS NEW WAVE OF TV/FILM FOR THE WEB? WHAT DO YOU THINK OF YOUTUBE, NETFLIX, AMAZON VIDEO OR OTHER VIDEO WEBSITES? AW: I love House of Cards!! It’s amazing. We are in an age where the Internet is the most relevant platform for any business or form of entertainment. It’s the way forward and companies like Netflix and YouTube have the ability to rival networks due to their growing global accessibility and relevance as media platforms. They have made themselves contenders by providing award worthy work for their audiences. JO: HAVE YOU BEEN OR ARE YOU PURSUING SOME OF THESE WEB-BASED DRAMAS AND COMEDIES? AW: There is a lot brewing. If the scripts are great I’ll go anywhere! JO: SPEAKING OF JULIA STILES, YOU SEEM TO HAVE A SIMILAR PEDIGREE: INTELLECTUAL, EDUCATED. DO YOU THINK THIS GIVES YOU AN ASSET WHEN IT COMES TO ACTING? AW: First, thank you kindly for the flattery! Everyone represents themselves differently and can only be who they are. I've lived a life that is etched in my being, it’s in my body language, my voice. I’ve experienced and learned a lot and can only honor that by representing myself in my "truth." I am a strong woman and I have a brain. It is important to me to communicate that. I don't go into things with a strategy...I just don't deny who I am. I think people feel it off you before you even begin. I definitely balance it with my natural goofiness! I am a known eccentric...that I can’t hide either. When it decides it wants to be noticed I have to go with that too!
THIS PAGE Silver Trench and Black & White Stripped Tube Skirt by ROBERT RODRIGUEZ Diamond Serpent Hoop Earrings by DANIELLE QUELLER
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JO: YOU ALSO SPEAK A NUMBER A LANGUAGES FLUENTLY. WHAT ARE THEY? AND WAS THIS THROUGH STUDY, SOCIALIZATION, OR BOTH? AW: I speak Portuguese, Spanish and French. I lived in Portugal 17 years and of course am fluent. Once you have a Latin base it's quite easy to pick up other Latin-based languages. Living in Europe and going to an international school with 42 nationalities in my year alone meant I was quick to pick up a couple more. Mostly through travel and spending time in France or Spain. JO: ANY CHANCE YOU MIGHT INCORPORATE SOME OF YOUR LANGUAGE KNOWLEDGE INTO YOUR PERFORMANCES A LA CHRISTOPH WALTZ? AW: I’d love nothing more. I am talking to a few Brazilian directors and trying to figure something out. French cinema is something I’ve always wanted to do. JO: AT THIS STAGE IN YOUR ACTING EVOLUTION, HOW WOULD YOU RATE IT THUS FAR? ARE YOU PLEASED WITH WHERE YOU ARE? ARE YOU STILL JUST AS HUNGRY AS YOU WERE WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED? DO YOU CONSIDER YOURSELF A "CELEBRITY" OR DO YOU VIEW YOURSELF AS A PROFESSIONAL ACTOR? AW: I feel fortunate. It is an incredible ride and you meet some very inspiring people and have unforgettable experiences. I will always be hungry but the most important thing is that outside of my work life I have true contentment. I have an escape through the most loyal network of friends and loved ones. They are my most treasured accomplishment. If you are smart, you realize that it’s all meaningless without the people at your core. Those who keep you grounded and humble, who see you for you and nothing else. I struggle with the idea of celebrity...this is where I become incredibly British and find it all rather embarrassing. I want to be known only for my work, but good work, plain and simple. That's all I'm here trying to achieve, but the nice dresses help! JO: WHAT UPCOMING PROJECTS ARE YOU INVOLVED WITH IN 2013? AW: Peaky Blinders with Cillian Murphy and Sam Neill. The Man That Would Be Bond with Dominic Cooper and Hello Carter with Charlie Cox.
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JUST FOR FUN QUESTIONS: 1 LEATHER JACKET OR LEATHER PANTS? Leather jacket...although pants are pretty sexy. 2 IF YOU HAD YOUR OWN TAG LINE, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Enjoy life and it will enjoy you. 3 WHAT PHRASE BEST DESCRIBES YOUR TECH KNOWLEDGE? "Wait, you don't have a Vine account?" or "Vine? is that an app about trees?" I am technologically challenged to say the least. 4 CURRENT MUSIC YOU'RE LISTENING TO? James Blake, Vampire Weekend's new album, Grizzly Bear, Father John Misty, Nick Cave...the list is endless really. I’m a music fiend. 5 WORST AND BEST MOVIES YOU'VE SEEN IN 2013? Best: Rust and Bone, Silver Linings Playbook, a French film Les Intouchables, and British film Sightseers. Worst: I give movies 5 minutes, if they are bad. I don’t watch them. I'll never get those two hours back. 6 WINE OR COCKTAIL? Both together? Is that allowed? Yes. 7 WOULD YOU RATHER BE A WEREWOLF OR VAMPIRE? Vampire, they’re less hairy. It’s not a good look for a lady to be sporting facial hair. 8 PANCAKES OR WAFFLES? Both! A pancake and waffle tower with more butter than is ever allowed, maple syrup, chocolate, strawberries and bacon. Oh yeah, gluttony! Can I eat it off someone? 9 RATE YOUR DANCING SKILLS. A ONE BEING KEVIN JAMES FROM HITCH, AND A TEN BEING A TOP FIVE CONTESTANT ON DANCING WITH THE STARS? I am number 11 without fail. I get those snake hips out and love a good old groin thrust. Oh yes, watch out.
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ENCHANTED GARDEN Photography by ABNEL GONZALEZ @ abnelphoto.com Stylist & Designer by ANGELA FIGUEROA Makeup by ELIEZER GONZALEZ Hair ARISTIDES DICKSON
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THIS SPREAD Sweater by BAM BARCENA Shirt by BAM BARCENA Sunglasses by GIANT VINTAGE
DAYDREAMER Photography by ALVIN NGUYEN @ the block mgmt Stylist by SANDY PHAN Makeup and Hair by TRACEY MOYER @ celestine Model CHARAN @ photogenics
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OPPOSITE Shirt by BLACKBIRD Suit by HARPTUS Shoes by J SHOES Watch by EGARD Sunglasses by GIANT VINTAGE THIS PAGE Sweater by DIVISION E Pants by ANTHONY MORATO Shoes by J SHOES
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THIS PAGE Shirt by BAM BARCENA Vest by BLACKBIRD Jacket by GNRL QRTRS OPPOSITE Sweater by GNRL QRTRS Jacket by GNRL QRTRS Jeans by DENIM REVIVAL
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OPPOSITE Jacket by HARPTUS Shirt by BAM BARCENA Sweater by GNRL QRTRS Pants by BELLFIELD Shoes by J SHOES THIS PAGE Jacket by BELLFIELD Shirt by GNRL QRTRS Shorts by BELLFIELD
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REMIX!
BOYLSTON TRADING CO. IS SINGING A NEW RETAIL TUNE WITH TODAY'S MENSWEAR MASH-UP. Written by LEE HERSHEY
Men will want to go shopping after they discover online boutique Boylston Trading Co. Their site is an online store as much as it is a magazine. Loaded with features such as videos, photo essays and interviews with the designers BTCo collaborates with, their online magazine The Trade is a stunning catalogue encouraging men to dress a little more stylish in the street clothes they already know and love. The Trade gives customers the opportunity to access the designers and creatives associated with BTCo through interviews, providing them with a peek at the process behind the brands and styles they love to wear. BTCo creates a unique experience by letting their customers browse through lookbooks and photo essays, all providing a background and a deeper understanding into the clothes they want to wear. The company, started by Frank “The Butcher” Rivera, offers “a curated selection of premium menswear, hard goods and collaborative products.” Before the Worcester native made any kind of commotion in menswear, he was a metal-shop supervisor. Now 34, and still inspired by his hip-hop roots, Rivera turned his interest in street-wear into a business of exclusive sneakers and upscale urban fashion. Rivera acts as the creative director for the company. In the past, he worked as a brand manager and designer at Harvard Square’s Concepts. At Concepts, Rivera—who has an affinity for shoes—had his first collaboration with Timberland, a brand he’s been wearing since he was a teenager. More than anything, the shoe symbolizes hip-hop culture and street34
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wear. Hip-hop music was part of his youth. And while growing up Rivera was fascinated by all aspects of it: the culture, the music, the art and the fashion that the hip-hop greats were wearing. He re-imagines the hip-hop styles he remembers from his youth, but moreover focuses to rework streetwear originals in keeping essential details and adding others. In this manner, Rivera recreates and modernizes streetwear by bringing it forward to this generation of 21st-century men and with it, a whole new way to think about shopping and fashion. BTCo is an offshoot of the online retailer Karmaloop, which wants to set apart their higher end collaborations. Rivera has plans to branch BTCo into sportswear, as well as establishing a boutique location on Boylston Street with Karmaloop founder Greg Selkoe. The BTCo store also offers appointment-only services to treat the customer as a VIP ensuring quality product experience. It’s that VIP experience Rivera wants his customers to walk away with and continue to feel when they wear BTCo brands. Rivera is interested in creating a conversation with the customer and the product by providing them with background and context. “It’s all about giving something else,” Rivera says, “offering customers perspectives on how to wear the styles, who is wearing the product and why it’s special. In this way, BTCo makes a conscious effort to speak to a certain person who has premium attests for specific styles.” “It’s all about presentation,” Rivera points out, which
is why his site is so driven by the visual elements of The Trade editorials. “If you style it and photograph it correctly, the perspective changes…” Rivera says, “It’s not about the retail worth, but positioning it to premium tastes, to a certain fashion level.” In this same way, Rivera revamps the e-Commerce experience. When online shopping first came out, it was novel and special. Now that e-Commerce is the norm, the challenge is keeping people interested. Rivera does this by giving the products context to the customers, allowing them to start a dialogue and interact with the product. This is especially crucial with male customers. “The male mentality,” Rivera notes, “Is that men shouldn’t be over-interested in shopping.” Rivera dissects two perspectives when it comes to shopping: women tend to be in love with the idea of shopping, browsing and trying things on. On the other hand, men are in love with the idea of acquiring products: buying it, keeping it and showing it off. Rivera applies this knowledge in the way BTCo markets to men; by showing them how they can wear products, how to style it, and especially, by offering them quality products they can’t acquire from anywhere else. Men who shop at BTCo value quality, they value appearance and style, and they value the story behind their purchases. These are professional men who want to cut out in sharp looks as they head off to work and then later a night on the town, but they also want clothes that speak volumes about their aesthetics. These are also men who grew up with classics, like vintage jerseys (by Mitchell & Ness), the Adidas Forum Hi x, Levi’s Brand, or Timberland Boot Co -- brands they saw in the streets growing up. In terms of the market, menswear is changing because men’s attitudes towards fashion is changing. Street-wear is becoming street contemporary, and the sizing, fits and details are evolving as men pay more attention to how they style themselves. “There are less rules, it’s more of a hybrid and about contemporary balance,” Rivera says, noting men are more open to wearing tighter fits or biker styles paired with Jordans. “There are less rules, less insecurities.” A lot of misconceptions about what menswear should and shouldn’t be are falling away. Men are more interested in how they look, and are not afraid to experiment with styling their looks. BTCo positions itself to offer these hybrid looks that men want: clothes that are slim-fitting, made of fine-quality textiles, menswear that is practical, comfortable, but also smart and stylish. Customers at BTCo view their purchases and their clothes as investments.The quality must be long lasting and the styles are classic. What they spend on fashion will be compensated editorially; and moreover, through Rivera and his team at BTCo, they are rewarded with the background story. Rivera says that BTCo is at a crossroads, and in this place Rivera and his team can pick and choose what they want to do whether it reflects hip-hop culture or menswear transitioning trends. While hip-hop culture inspires Rivera, his store is more motivated in offering unique and premium clothing. There may be aspects of hip-hop culture in the styles “and while it may not jump right out, it still smells a little bit like hip-hop.” Rather, Rivera believes BTCo pushes culture forward as it pushes fashion forward: there maybe hip-hop elements, but it’s also about adding street-edge, and a rebel perspective to stylish, quality clothing. “Hip-hop is a hybrid culture…of music and fashion,” Rivera says, “It’s a global genre, and the walls are falling down.” In this way, BTCo is more of a smash-up of interests,
and a collaboration of his team’s tastes, as well as Rivera’s background passion in hip-hop. Rivera was drawn to hiphop music because he was interested in what rappers were wearing. Rappers and hip-hop artists each had distinctive sounds; and each musician paid special attention to their looks as a means to brand their music and their identity. Rivera notes, “Music, fashion…it comes from the same place.” BTCo will continue to push fashion forward by collaborating with the best brands, managing editorials and working on other projects to cut across boundaries. In the past, BTCo worked with bagging companies to create distinctive pieces for the store, lines of baseball caps and jerseys, as well as sneakers and accessories. He has collaborated with Nike, Adidas and New Balance. One of the biggest successes at BTCo was with the Adidas Forum Hi, a sneaker inspired by Rivera’s youth on drugdealing street fashion out of Worcester. Rivera took notice, and with a basketball “crest” emblazoned in gold, it’s an ultimate symbol of street life uniform. On the BTCo website, Rivera writes, “The all–so– mysterious ‘crest’ Forum was just a faint memory of a snotnosed handball court rat. When the opportunity presented itself to work with Adidas on the project, all I could think about was this shoe—a shoe that no one remembered. I did, though, and with a mission I asked a few hard-core Adidas collectors and before long, my ‘Holy Grail’ sneakers were in my hands. Maybe they were a little dusty or visibly aged, but they still represented the ‘status’ that was once imagined by a kid a couple decades ago.” Advancing forward and doing what they are known best for—innovative collaborative projects—BTCo plans to work in the future with Danner Boot Company, as well as the Hellfire Canyon Club to create a line of T-shirts and helmets. Rivera adds, “We’re lucky where we are at now, not painted any which way; nothing’s holding me.
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THIS SPREAD Jacket by ROBIN'S JEANS Shirt by CAMILLE & CO Belt by ROBIN'S JEANS Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS
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CITY BY THE SEA
Photography by HALEY BALLARD @ haleyballard.com Stylist by RUDY REED @ fashionforwardmen.com Hair and Makeup by HELEN REAVEY @ helenreavey.com Models by EVAN LEFF & MARCUS ZETTERBERG @ re:quest
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THIS PAGE Jacket by ROBIN'S JEANS Shirt by CAMILLE & CO Belt by ROBIN'S JEANS Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS OPPOSITE Tribal Shirt by PURE Cotton White Shirt by HENRIK VIBSKOV Pants by HENRIK VIBSKOV Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS
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THIS SPREAD Tribal Shirt by PURE Cotton White Shirt by HENRIK VIBSKOV Pants by HENRIK VIBSKOV Jacket by ROBIN'S JEANS Shirt by CAMILLE & CO Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS
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OPPOSITE Vintage Leather Jacket by WHAT COMES AROUND GOES AROUND Accessories by BJORG THIS PAGE Shirt by HENRIK VIBSKOV Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS
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THIS SPREAD Sweater by HENRIK VIBSKOV Accessories by HAKIM
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THIS PAGE Vintage Leather Jacket by WHAT COMES AROUND GOES AROUND Accessories by BJORG OPPOSITE Jacket by SOULLAND Shirt by SOULLAND Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS
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THIS SPREAD Jacket by REASON CLOTHING Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Accessories by HAKIM Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS Jacket by SOULLAND Shirt by SOULLAND
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THIS SPREAD Jacket by REASON CLOTHING Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Accessories by HAKIM Shoes by ROBIN'S JEANS
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THIS SPREAD Vintage Sweater by ROB WINTER Shirt by SOULLAND Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS
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THIS SPREAD Jacket by SOULLAND Shirt by SOULLAND Pants by ROBIN'S JEANS Jacket by REASON CLOTHING Accessories by HAKIM
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Papercut MIXTAPE
Written by Jamall Oluokun
To celebrate three years of Papercut Magazine music coverage, we teamed up with Reverbnation once again to create our very first Mixtape. Our Mixtape includes an eclectic collection of songs to introduce you to new artists, expand your musical palette and, of course, entertain your ears. There were so many great submissions and songs to choose from that we had to call in backup. NYC DJ Kasey Berry and Luisa Imbert, an A&R rep for Buddah Brown, assisted us in selecting a wide range of awesome music. How wide? Try everything from Country to Dubstep and artists from all over the world including Australia and Germany. Of course, music is meant to be heard so we’ll stop talking now. Go ahead, gorge yourself on all this ear candy.
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ADJOA SKINNER STOMPING GROUND: Los Angeles, CA (but I'm moving out of my place and headed to Nashville in the Fall). MUSICAL SLOGAN: Do what makes you come alive and don't try to sound or look or write like someone else. It’s so much better to stick to your identity whether it’s a concept from your 12-year-old self or your 30-year-old self. Adjoa Skinner Vaudeville Singer - Songwriter http://adjoaskinner.com
"GOD MADE ME TALL"
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AMBER OJEDA STOMPING GROUND: I am currently living in Los Angeles. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Heart, then head.
"MY HEART'S A WHORE"
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AUBERGINE MACHINE STOMPING GROUND: We are currently based in Miami, although our roots are from Baltimore, Maryland. We also traveled the world for some years living in Amsterdam and Valencia, Spain. Ian Carey, who produces the music, DJs and does a lot of work in the commercial house/EDM music scene. So, this takes us all over and is a side project we are working on. MUSICAL SLOGAN: We make music, love life and laugh sometimes. We are Aubergine MACHINE.
"SATELLITE"
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BRITTANY LEO STOMPING GROUND: I live in Melbourne, Australia. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Music is my life. Photo Credits Blush Photography in Melbourne
"SAVING MYSELF"
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BRITTNEY BOUCHARD STOMPING GROUND: Los Angeles. MUSICAL SLOGAN: "Taking over the world, one song at a time" www.brittneybouchard.com
"HOLDING MY BREATH"
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CASH L3WIS STOMPING GROUND: San Diego, CA. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Leave a mark. Photography by: Jessie Rand
"LISTEN TO ME"
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DV III STOMPING GROUND: I'm from, and still reside in Brooklyn, NY. MUSICAL SLOGAN: I already have a musical slogan, "Real Shit Though.� I use that phrase whenever I feel that something is beyond true. All photos were taken by Brain Couture
"THE CLOSING"
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ELLEN ONCE AGAIN STOMPING GROUND: I currently live in Dallas, Texas MUSICAL SLOGAN: I think of myself as one part vintage and two parts bubbly, with a shot of Pop Soul f: www.facebook.com/ellenonceagain y: www.youtube.com/ellenonceagain w: http://www.ellenonceagain.com t: www.twitter.com/ellenonceagain
"I DO"
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FIONA MACMAHON STOMPING GROUND: I live near Hamburg, Germany. MUSICAL SLOGAN: I've been playing music since I got my first guitar during my schooldays. www.reverbnation.com/fionamacmahon
"NOVEMBER"
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G WILLIAM BOYD STOMPING GROUND: Dallas, TX. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Don't take yourself too seriously. www.gwilliamboyd.com
"ROLLING THE DICE"
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GLACIERDON STOMPING GROUND: I'm from Brooklyn but I currently live in the Bronx. Photos courtesy of Mel Wright Photography.
"DIME A DOZEN"
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JAY HOWDEN STOMPING GROUND: Houston, Texas. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Follow dreams, not orders.
"YCDW"
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JENNY SIMMS STOMPING GROUND: I currently live in Bethany, Oklahoma as the daughter of a fillin choir director. Pretty much no one has ever gotten me to shut up. MUSICAL SLOGAN: You can't take the music
"SMALL TOWN"
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JO THEE GREAT STOMPING GROUND: I live in the downtown Detroit area, just off the river where the nice tsights almost blinds you to the falling city around you. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Longevity is key. With hard work, passion and dedication, we can accomplish anything. https://soundcloud.com/jo-thee-great
"LOW KEY"
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JONATHAN BLAKE SALAZAR STOMPING GROUND: Newport Beach, CA. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Don't think, just feel and play a little bit every day.
"WHAT IF I TOLD YOU"
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LONELY TREES STOMPING GROUND: Los Angeles. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Hah, we have a running joke with Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believing.”
"FLUTTER"
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LOUIE BELLO STOMPING GROUND: I currently Live in Boston but travel frequently. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Choose your chords wisely.
"SHOTGUN"
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MATT CUSSON STOMPING GROUND: Currently in New York City. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Why be the next someone else when you can be the first you.
"LEAVING L.A."
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MERRY ELLEN KIRK STOMPING GROUND: I'm from Nashville, but I’m currently living in the middle of Alaska in Fairbanks for a year now since I got married. It's like the end of the world, really...it's been nice to take a break from touring all the time so I can write more. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Make it magical.
"FEATHER"
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PHILADELPHIA SLICK STOMPING GROUND: Philadelphia, PA. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Our Music is Our Brand.
"NEVER CHANGE"
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SARAH SHOOK & THE DEVIL STOMPING GROUND: Chatham County, North Carolina. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Make it the best it can possibly be. Then drink more whiskey and figure out how to make it better. photo credit to David Hutchinson.
"DAMN YOU"
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SEIGE STOMPING GROUND: Upstate, Auburn NY. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Reality sucks, so keep dreamin'.
"RUNDAT"
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THE THRILL COLLECTIVE STOMPING GROUND: I live in Highland, Utah, about 20 minutes south of Salt Lake City. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Young. New. Rock.
"WAISTING TIME ON YOU"
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THE UPSET VICTORY STOMPING GROUND: We hail from Cincinnati, Ohio. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Our mantra would be that it's about the process or journey and not necessarily always the end result. We've accomplished more than I could have imagined when we first started this band. I cannot wait for the next seven years and the great experiences and relationships to grow.
"FAKE THIS"
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THOMAS FISS STOMPING GROUND: I'm from San Diego but I've been living in LA for about six years. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Throw your heart to the sky. Photo Credit = Jeff Thomas
"CHASING SATELLITES"
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TOM JARVIS STOMPING GROUND: Originally born and raised in Cambridge, UK. In 2010 I moved to Chester in the UK and have been here for a few years now. MUSICAL SLOGAN: Without it sounding too cliché, my musical slogan would be the same quote I used to name my first EP which is “Make Your Own Luck.” This is something that really keeps me pushing forward while always trying to improve and grow as an artist.
"TOUCH YOUR HEART"
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YDOTK STOMPING GROUND: Currently im in Detroit Michigan. MUSICAL SLOGAN: It would be Michigan Made.
"MY ATTITUDE"
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THIS SPREAD Earrings and Scarf by VINTAGE
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COLOUR ME Photography by KATE STRUCKA @ strucka.com Stylist by PSZCZORMANI @ pszczormani.blogspot.com Makeup by EWA GRZELAKOWSKA-KOSTOGLU @ ewagrzelakowska.pl Hair by LUKE SIENKO @ fb.com/luke.hairstylist Model MALWINA @ hook
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THIS SPREAD Headpiece by GLITTER
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THIS SPREAD Scarf by GLITTER
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THIS SPREAD Rings by GLITTER, ZIELONY KOT, AND VINTAGE
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THIS SPREAD Scarf by GLITTER
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THIS SPREAD Earrings by GLITTER
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THIS SPREAD Scarf by GLITTER
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THIS PAGE Scarf and Bracelets by GLITTER OPPOSITE Earrings and Scarf by VINTAGE
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AUX PASTELS Photography by KAIT ROBINSON Stylist by KAIT ROBINSON Makeup by JOSEPHINE PERRONE Hair by ZOE DAVIS Model by KALEIGH @ major models All Clothing by VINTAGE
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OUTSHINE
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SOME SEE ACCESSORIES AS SUPERFLUOUS. OTHERS SEE THE PIECES HELD NEAR AND DEAR AS A SUCCINCT EMBODIMENT OF SELF EXPRESSION. OF THE LATTER CONCEPT, I PROFILE TWO RISING NYC JEWELRY DESIGNERS WHO CREATE ARTFUL WONDERS SPARKLING WITH AESTHETIC PHILOSOPHY. Interviewed by JESSICA YOUNG
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AEA JEWELRY Interviewed by JESSICA YOUNG
Photography by MARK LUEBBERS Creative Direction by JESSICA YOUNG & CHRISTAN SUMMERS Art Direction and Styling by CHRISTAN SUMMERS Makeup and Hair by FAITH BARTRUFF Model by NEELIA MOORE Jewelry by AEA JEWELRY
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STATS: Name: Adrienne Alaimo Brand: AEA Jewelry City: NYC How many years old: 1 year JY: WHY ACCESSORIES? WHY DID YOU CHOOSE JEWELRY DESIGN AS OPPOSED TO RTW, SHOES AND HANDBAGS, ETC? AA: I love the permanence of jewelry, the timelessness of it; each piece is a small treasure. The sculptural aspects of jewelry really drew me in as a designer-maker. Both the process of constructing it and the look on the body, it can redefine and push boundaries in less controlled ways than clothing. Jewelry is an accessory after all…pure extravagance with little need to regard function. JY: WHAT IS THE AESTHETIC? ARE THERE ANY MAJOR DESIGN TENETS AT THE CORE OF YOUR JEWELRY? AA: AEA has a modern, structural aesthetic but with an undertone of decorative richness influenced from my Lebanese-Italian heritage. The ornate boldness of those cultures really appeals to me, but my natural inclination is to minimize. So, both of those ideals wrapped together creates the AEA style. A tenet I follow in my jewelry as well as in my life is to make things of timeless style and quality. I don’t believe in the idea of disposable or temporary. JY: WHAT INSPIRED YOUR LATEST COLLECTION? AND WHERE DO YOU TYPICALLY FIND INSPIRATION? AA: For Fall 2013, I wanted to explore open forms by creating unique views of the stones and enamel my brand is known for. The past collections were mainly solid forms, so this was a way to push the icons forward. For example, the Modern ring transformed into the Cross Cut ring and instead of opaque enamel, the stones and enamel creates an open–stripe effect. My inspiration is a lifestyle mentality, constant with all the collections and day-to-day living. I always gravitate to deco, futurism, surrealism and Middle Eastern styles. JY: WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE MATERIALS? AA: Gold, silver, gemstones, enamel, rare vintage beads and the finest silks and metal threads I knit with to make the one-of-a kind necklaces. JY. WHO ARE YOU DESIGNING FOR? WHO DO YOU ENVISION WEARING YOUR JEWELRY? ANY DREAM CUSTOMERS? AA: I design for people who see beauty, luxury and appreciate uniqueness. It is not a specific type of person (visually); it is a way of thinking and seeing the world.
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JY: HOW DOES YOUR JEWELRY REFLECT YOU AS A PERSON? DO ANY PERSONAL PHILOSOPHIES SHAPE YOUR DESIGNS? AA: My jewelry is definitely a direct reflection of my own style and way of thinking – a blend of structure that conversely pushes boundaries, and bold, unapologetic beauty with a touch of a dark side. JY: ANY FUTURE PLANS IN EVOLVING THE BRAND? AA: I am launching a small men’s line for Spring 2014 and I’m very excited for it. I’d also like to add a more elevated solid-gold line and maybe hedge into the AEA version of engagement rings. JY: WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU AND YOUR BRAND? ANYTHING NOTEWORTHY COMING UP? AA: Maybe a few collaborations coming down the line with other designers, but nothing officially announced yet. JY: HOW ARE YOU “MAKING IT” EVERYDAY AS AN EMERGING DESIGNER? AA: By succeeding! I definitely feel the brand taking on a presence of its own. JY: ANY ADVICE FOR OTHER EMERGING OR ASPIRING DESIGNERS? AA: Know your identity and stay true to it. BEHIND THE EDITORIAL: It’s gotta be wet! And no, I was not referring to the spritz from a spring breeze running through Bryant Park’s fountain on a bright New York City day as I chatted with Christan on a hasty lunchtime phone call. We agreed the AEA woman is darkly sultry in such an unwavering, absolute sense that it underscores hard–as–diamonds strength. With all the wet hair stomping down SS 2013 runways last fall, there certainly is a sexiness and rawness to this simple, undone look. By stripping down the concept, we were exposing a nakedness in truth to our subject. The sharp geometry of the jewelry needed to shine, uncluttered and unfettered by distractions. Captured by our photog Mark on another bright day in the cavernous depths of a Chelsea studio, the result was gleaming, pure and powerful in its stark beauty. Proving once again, the light in the dark, and the dark in the light, is just one continuum to be played upon and discovered.
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WANDERLUSTER Interviewed by JESSICA YOUNG STATS: Name: Rammy Park Brand: Wanderluster City: NYC How many years old: Two years old in October JY: WHY ACCESSORIES? WHY DID YOU CHOOSE JEWELRY DESIGN AS OPPOSED TO RTW, SHOES AND HANDBAGS, ETC? RP: I’m self taught as a designer, so in some ways jewelry chose me. I’ve always loved to make things with my hands, but my mom wouldn’t let my eight-year-old self get busy with a needle and thread so I turned to beading and baking weird earrings and rings out of Sculpey and Fimo. I’ve graduated from that look, thankfully, but the joy of having an idea and then seeing that idea executed has never waned and it truly feeds me as an artist. I still make my own clothing sometimes, now that my motor skills have improved from childhood days. I'm always thinking about the perfect billowy asymmetrical dress, or angular, lasercut handbags...someday! I’d love to add RTW and handbags into the mix when the time feels right. JY: WHAT IS THE AESTHETIC? ARE THERE ANY MAJOR DESIGN TENETS AT THE CORE OF YOUR JEWELRY? RP: I’m drawn most to ideas and structures that feel streamlined, modern and clean but are still unusual and unexpected. The goal of originality or unusualness can be a little difficult to accomplish when there is so much out there. We create custom molds for many of our elements which can’t be found elsewhere, so that definitely helps give it a feeling of newness. There are so many designers out there doing incredibly beautiful work with vintage and vintage-inspired pieces, but that’s never been me. So, I'm trying to push things with different shapes, pairings and clasps. Never stop exploring. JY: WHAT INSPIRED YOUR LATEST COLLECTION? AND WHERE DO YOU TYPICALLY FIND INSPIRATION? RP: My latest FW 2013 collection was inspired by a trip I took to Iceland for my birthday. It was winter, the aurorae were out, and I’ve never seen a landscape like it. So much white, silver, glinting light and rising steam! It was a visual fantasy of juxtapositions, which is right up my alley. I like trying to clash things that might not go together in order to discover something new. JY: WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE MATERIALS? RP: I love working with resin because I love how customizable it is. But otherwise, I’m staying open to different options and technologies. I’m trying some pieces out with a 3-D printer for my next collection and playing with enamel, which is new for me. JY: WHO ARE YOU DESIGNING FOR? WHO DO YOU ENVISION WEARING YOUR JEWELRY? ANY DREAM CUSTOMERS? RP: I always am drawn to powerful, mysterious, often unusual women with more than a hint of devil-may-care: Maggie Cheung, Tilda Swinton, Courtney Love, Yoko Ono, Rita Ora. There would be some pretty major swooning going on if any of these incredible ladies wore my pieces. However, I design very much with this idea of a strong, powerful and independent woman in mind. 120
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Photography by GERALDINE BARON Wardrobe by MODEL'S OWN Models by JENNIFER BARON & JULIA MARTINEZ RUBIO Jewelry by WANDERLUSTER
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JY: HOW DOES YOUR JEWELRY REFLECT YOU AS A PERSON? DO ANY PERSONAL PHILOSOPHIES SHAPE YOUR DESIGNS? RP: I’ve found that it’s impossible not to. Because I’m self-taught, and because I’m a writer and filmmaker, I thought for a while I had to keep all these parts of myself separate. I think it’s because it’s hard to figure out the voice for each creative outlet. Who am I as jewelry designer versus who am I as writer? But what I’ve discovered, in just doing it, that yes, my voice finds its way into my jewelry just as it does into my writing and my films. Just in a different way. JY: ANY FUTURE PLANS IN EVOLVING THE BRAND? RP: I’m in the middle of designing a diffusion line, at a lower price point, for a large retailer that I’m keeping hushhush until the news can be out. I love the thought of being at a more approachable and accessible price point. And I’m working on some exclusive Wanderluster video content that we hope to start rolling out this summer. JY: HOW ARE YOU “MAKING IT” EVERYDAY AS AN EMERGING DESIGNER? RP: I live in Brooklyn, work in Manhattan, and make jewelry for a living. That feels like making it to me. Things could be a whole lot worse and it’s important I remember that often.
JY: ANY ADVICE FOR OTHER EMERGING OR ASPIRING DESIGNERS? RP: If you’re emerging, keep going until you’re not. If you’re aspiring, it’s just a hop, skip and a jump to emerging. You can do it! Patience, determination and belief in yourself are everything. BEHIND THE EDITORIAL: I worked with the photographer Geraldine Baron. Geraldine is an old friend and we went through film school at Columbia together. Both of us are exploring disciplines outside of our initial one, and I felt that Geraldine would understand me and my designs in a really organic way. I sent some samples to her in Buenos Aires and offered no creative direction whatsoever. She seemed to already have ideas based on my pieces and what she knows about me, so I was blown away when I saw the final photographs. She really nailed this mysterious female wanderluster figure in very much her own way. Doing these photos made me decide to launch a series of artist collaborations where they are inspired by the pieces but otherwise they have a creative blank slate for interpretation. The concept of seeing what other artists do with my work appeals to me as both an artist and designer.
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STEP INTO THE LIGHT Photography by IAN HOOTON @ ianhooton.com Styling by SIOUXSIE @ siouxsiestylist.com Hair and Makeup by NINA TURNER @ carolhayesmanagement.co.uk Model by MIRA VACLAVOVA @ storm model management
OPPOSITE Earrings by ST.ERASMUS Bra by ALMEIDA Skirt by MING Bangles by NICHOLAS KING Boots by MING
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THIS PAGE Earrings by ST.ERASMUS Bra by ALMEIDA Skirt by MING Bangles by NICHOLAS KING Boots by MING OPPOSITE Black Dress by DAKS Necklace by ST.ERASMUS Watch by TRIWA Skull Cuff by JULIA BURNESS Gold Cage Ring by ASSYA Skull Ring by JULIA BURNESS Magpie Swag Ring by CLAIRE English Bamboo Horn Ring by FABEL
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THIS PAGE Black Dress by DAKS Necklace by ST.ERASMUS Watch by TRIWA Skull Cuff by JULIA BURNESS Gold Cage Ring by ASSYA Skull Ring by JULIA BURNESS Magpie Swag Ring by CLAIRE English Bamboo Horn Ring by FABEL OPPOSITE Black Crystal Earrings by ST. ERASMUS Jacket by ATHANSASIA AMVROSIOU Leather Harness Bra by ALMEIDA High Waisted Pants by STYLIST'S OWN Oversized Green Ring by MAUD TRAON
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THIS PAGE Black Backless Dress by PAM HOGG Arm Cuff with horse hair by BJORG Black Crystal Necklace by ST. ERASMUS Gloves by STYLISTS OWN Black Strap Platform Shoe Boots by CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN OPPOSITE Corset by I.D SARRIERI Necklace by ST. ERASMUS Gloves by STYLISTS OWN Purple Stone Ring and Earrings by MERLE O'GRADY Tights by GOLD BY GILES
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THIS PAGE Rose Gold Chain Link Necklace by MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE Peach Ruffle Blouse by BASHARATYAN Rose Gold and Oxidised Silver Skull Ring by JULIA BURNESS Black Lace Top by STYLISTS OWN OPPOSITE Necklace by KIRSTY WARD Blue Top by BASHARATYAN
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HOW BUNDSHOP IS KILLING "MADE IN CHINA" WHAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT CHINESE DESIGN UNTIL NOW. Written by NORA E. S. GILLIGAN I came across BUNDSHOP by chance recently, while playing around on Google looking for inspiration (read: procrastinating). I did eventually find it, in this Financial Times article via a Georgetown University alumni listserv. Titled “A Designer Revolution,” the piece highlights a struggling - but growing - niche for high-end artisanal art, fashion, furniture and architectural design among China’s young creative talent. BUNDSHOP curates such emerging brands, making them accessible to anyone with a reasonable amount of taste through 24-hour flash sales. What sets BUNDSHOP apart from the Gilts and RueLaLas of the e-commerce world is a triple threat. Sales depend on the work of relatively unknown designers in a market typically known for quantity over quality, and on an as-yet unpredictable consumer market in a growing creative economy. Additionally, media and Internet censorship mandated by the People’s Republic of China’s ruling Communist Party leaves BUNDSHOP in an unparalleled position for marketing the brands it represents. Diana Tsai is BUNDSHOP’s co-founder and self-titled CEO & Visionary, and a fellow Georgetown graduate. I’m excited when I hear about alum doing things outside of the expected law school/medical school/political route, so I was inspired to reach out to her after reading the Financial Times reference. We scheduled time for a Skype chat. And when we did eventually connect, Diana and her partner-in-crime Stephany Zoo came across as energetic, purposeful and directed about the work they’re doing as well as the value that they’re adding to the market. This is BUNDSHOP’s story so far and why Diana and Stephany are uniquely positioned to succeed. PERFECT PROBLEM, PERFECT STORM. One of Urban Dictionary’s definitions for Made in China reads, “piece of shit.” Seriously. As in: “If something is made in China, it’s a piece of fucking shit. Don’t buy it.” It’s a bit harsh and perhaps the vulgarities are unnecessary although it’s still a common sentiment among those of us in the western world. At its best, Chinese manufacturing is uninspired design for the masses. At its worst, we read about lax regulations and product recalls. The media loves to bash scandals involving tainted baby formula, designer knockoffs and fake meat, but it’s slower on the pickup of a young talented generation waiting to drive a new creative economy. As noted in the Financial Times piece, China “has seen a dramatic shift in its arts education, and today produces more graduates in the design field than anywhere else in the world.” So, there’s plenty who supply quality Chinese design. The “problem” comes in the form of demand that doesn’t know where to look. Chinese consumers with money to burn are historically loyal to foreign brands, and especially so for luxury goods. In Epsilon International’s 2013 Consumer Loyalty Study report, Rise of Stylish Chinese Consumers, only 23 percent of those surveyed preferred “to purchase 138
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products made in [their] own country.” (The Hurun Research Institute’s Chinese Luxury Consumer Survey 2013 is a fun read, and highlights this). This leaves independent designers dependent on exports for profitability, but social media censorship presents a major obstacle to growing their brands on a larger scale. Facebook, Twitter and blogs are huge marketing tools, none of which Chinese designers have absolute access to. Thus shoppers from outside the country, who might otherwise appreciate exactly what China has to offer, have no way of knowing that such an industry exists. When I first chatted with Diana, I thought there was a glitch with my Skype video. After asking her about it, I learned firsthand about the “Great Firewall of China” (streaming, realtime video is restricted). This gave some perspective as to the environment that BUNDSHOP is investing in. China does have style, we just haven’t been able to see it yet. Diana and her co-founders saw this as an opportunity, and BUNDSHOP was born. “I moved to Shanghai and thought, ‘What’s the most impossible thing we could do?'”
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It’s not every undergrad who turns a study abroad program into a charity cause. But that’s exactly what Diana did in 2011 when she noticed elderly Shanghai residents suffering from cataracts and started selling sunglasses to afford their surgeries. As Stephany describes her, Diana “discovers and imagines business opportunities to bring together the people, ideas and products she loves.” A born entrepreneur, it was a matter of time before something new came together, once she decided that there were too “few designers and brands from China known to the world.” The idea for BUNDSHOP stemmed from this 2011 trip, when Diana and a group of friends discovered Shanghai’s creative community and fell in love with the city itself. The question of why Chinese design was virtually invisible to global tastemakers stayed with them, enough so that in March 2012 the group booked flights back to Shanghai to figure it out. The team did their due diligence, taking three
months to trek around the country and find products and designers that were ready for international debut. The feedback Diana and company received from meeting with potential clients was consistent, across metropolises like Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong and Hangzhou to the coastal provinces of Shandong and Xiamen. Designers had little chance of fostering their one-of-a-kind work under China’s mass-manufacturing model, and few options for sales platforms outside of sites like Ebay and Etsy, which did nothing to personalize new brands or tell their story. Additionally, such sites leave designs freely accessible and open to copyright infringement and cheap copycats. Successful business models stem from a simple equation - to find a need and fill it in a way that no one has done before. Working with a wealth of talented designers and quality product, coupled with a need for serious marketing tactics, BUNDSHOP aims to meet demand on both sides of the economic equation. The company initiated relationships with many of the designers they met with, hand-selecting products to sell along with a story. Stephany waxes poetic on the consumer her business is hoping to reach: We're about people who speak the global language of good design, who love products that tell stories and start passionate, cultured conversations. We exist for this community, those who are frustrated by a marketplace that doesn't deliver the unique objects they know exist but can't find. By showcasing and discussing the best-of-the-best of Chinese design, we bring daily excitement to people savvy enough to know "Made in China" is DEAD and "Designed in China" Killed it. Bundshop’s beta site launched in November 2012, featuring the stories of 15 Chinese designers and 50 products. "MADE IN CHINA" IS DEAD. "DESIGNED IN CHINA" KILLED IT Visitors to Bundshop’s digital boutique will become familiar with this phrase quickly. The tagline promises to shatter popular notion of what it means to buy from China, and encompasses everything that Bundshop is and sets out to do. I asked Stephany how she and Diana hope to see their business evolve. Although BUNDSHOP is still in its early stages, the two have a solid sense of their direction. Stephany says: We hope to be the definite platform that discovers the Chinese designers, ahead of the curve as people are still often very unaware of the undercurrents of creativity in China right now. We will also be more effective and efficient in the ways that we can represent our designers to the worlds they're unfamiliar with, whether it’s business-to-consumer through our website or business-to-business with our corporate gifts. Ultimately, we are finding better ways to rebrand Made in China to Designed in China. My own regard for Chinese design, up until now, stemmed only so far as New York Fashion Week with names like Alexander Wang, Vera Wang and Jason Wu (and of those, only Wu was actually born in Shanghai). This is partly my own ignorance. But to be almost as blunt as Urban Dictionary, China is just not yet considered a creative powerhouse in the western world so much as an economic one. BUNDSHOP is on a mission to change this perception, one designer and one story at a time. BUNDSHOP’s May launch introduced a complete website redesign and 50 new designers to the world. Get on the list at www.bundshop.co. 141
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AKHARADET Photography by SARA FLEGO @ saraflego.com Styling and Design by ACKY EKCHANOK @ akharadet.com Hair and Makeup by ANNA Gテ傍ESSON LEVIN Model by ASTRID B/MIKAS and AFNAN M Photo Assistant by CHRISTOFFER DALKARLS
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WYNE VEEN
THE DUTCH ARTIST CONTEMPLATES THE ABSURD IN OUR ADVERTISING AGE. Written by DEFNE GENCLER
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The word advertisement is derived from the Latin word advertere, which literally translated, means “to turn the mind toward.” What an odd thing to do, one might remark, to turn the mind... Yet given that the ancient Egyptians used to inscribe their sales messages onto Papyrus, and that political displays have been found in Arabian ruins, it seems that this process of “turning the mind toward” is one that human beings have been working at for centuries now. But when does it go too far? When does one manage to turn the mind toward and way beyond the point of return? Perhaps it’s already happened. Consider all the different types of advertising: television, infomercials, radio broadcasts, product placement, press releases, billboards, mobile billboards, coffee-mug advertising, street ads, celebrity branding, consumer generated advertising and even aerial advertising! Consider the spending on advertising: In the year 2010, spending amounted to 142.5 billion dollars. Worldwide spending amounted to 467 billion. And then, one asks, for what end? Now of course, plenty are benefiting from job opportunities, and there are countless advertisements turned into iconic images that viewers, and consumers will remember for a long time. But there still remains a sense which leads one to ask, for what purpose? Why? This sense arises out of the point at which things become slightly useless or a little ridiculous. All of these questions and more are posed by Wyne Veen’s still-life photographs of sculptural product arrangements. An Amsterdam native, Veen graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2008, and is since featured in several magazines as well as worldwide exhibitions. In the first photograph, titled “Ice Cream,” Veen depicts what is known as a typical Dutch ice cream cone, loved by children and adults of all ages. What really freezes our attention though, is that where the ice cream should be, we instead find a silky white cloth marbled with paint to represent the colors of melting sprinkles. The effect maintains its beauty, with the cloth glimmering in the light inciting the viewer to almost devour it (and making us ashamed of wanting to), while also poking a little fun at the somewhat silly and exaggerated measures taken to sell a product on the market. Another photo from Veen’s series is titled “Nice Apple” and displays a few apples supported by golden bows usually used for gift wrapping. Few images come close to depicting the absurd as well this one. Golden bows and apples. How do these things have anything to do with each other? And why use bows to display apples in the first place? It is exactly these questions that Veen wants us to ask. In this case, the absurdity strikes us when viewing the photographs as a work of art, yet it fails to strike us in an advertisement. However, if we zoom in with our consciousness, advertisements amount to the same 155
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absurdity. If the bows and apples weren’t enough, how does the entire arrangement even stand upright? The questions without answers never end. The idea of support in construction creeps into the next photograph titled “Frozen Dutch.” With the ice cream containers stacked onto one another in a nonsensical fashion, and the ice cream itself scooped onto the bottom of the upside-down container, there is simply no use in trying to logically determine the effect it has on us. It simply is, and it works. We find things in our lives every day that have a perfection of their own, that simply are what they are because they can’t pretend to be anything else. Veen’s other works pose similar questions presented in different ways. From perfumery intricately wrapped in multicolored cloth, to articles of clothing shaped in ways words can’t express, Veen also ventures into illuminating household objects and plants by pairing them with the unexpected. It’s likely that the search for the reason humans have practiced the art of advertere will find a similar answer, which is, that there is none. The same absurdity we find in Veen’s photographs we see in life. I’m looking forward to more parts of life that Veen illuminates to us through her photographs. Images via Wyne Veen Website: wyneveen.com
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SQUARE REPUBLIK Photography by EMMA GÉRAUD @ emmageraud.com Stylist by SARAH DELANNOY, feat. rad hourani Makeup and Hair by EVA RONÇAY Art Director by MAÏA WALLIS Model TAYA ERMOSHKINA @ city Photographer's Assistant THOMAS SERRES
All Pieces and Accessories by RAD BY RAD HOURANI
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THIS SPREAD Black Leather Jacket by CATHERINE MALANDRINO Black Tweed Shorts by BEC & BRIDGE Citrine Ring by JOHN HARDY Star Earring by AVANT GARDE Platform Ankle Strap Heels by VIC MATIE
ANNABELLE Photography by ALVIN NGUYEN @ the block mgmt Styling by KELVIN SHEAH @ aim artists Makeup and Hair by ERIN SKIPLEY Manicurist by KAITLYN MOSHER Model ANNABELLE WALLIS
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THIS PAGE Silver Trench by ROBERT RODRIGUEZ Diamond Serpent Hoop Earrings by DANIELLE QUELLER OPPOSITE Black & White Double Breasted Stripped Blazer by ROBERT RODRIGUEZ Sheer Black Jersey T-Shirt by THVM Bamboo Bangle by JOHN HARDY
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THIS PAGE Long Sleeve Black Dress by LE PETITE ROBE DI CHIARA BONI Crystal and Silver Cuffs, Earrings and Necklace by AVANT GARDE OPPOSITE White Lace Cropped Jacket with Matching Shorts by MCGINN Black & White Silk Art-Deco Cami by ARYN K. JET WOOD Diamonds Feather Earrings by DANIELLE QUELLER
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OPPOSITE Black Beaded Sleeve Jacket by ROBERT RODRIGUEZ Hoop Earrings by JOHN HARDY THIS PAGE White Lace Beaded Cropped Top by CATHERINE MALANDRINO Black Taffeta Laser Cut Shorts by IZMAYLOVA Starburst Diamond Earrings from Open Hearts by JANE SEYMOUR
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