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Winter Winter 2013/2014 2013/2014
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Chronos 2014 Issue 106 Chronos Chronos 2014 2014 Issue Issue 106 106
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ZEITMEISTER ZEITMEISTER ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR AVIATOR AVIATOR Ceramic Ceramic Ceramic chronograph, chronograph, chronograph, 44mm 44mm 44mm Matte Matte Matte black black black ceramic ceramic ceramic case, case, case, automatic automatic automatic movement movement movement officially officially officially certified certified certified to German to toGerman German DINDIN DIN standard. standard. standard.
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Chronos 2014 Issue 106
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Another Triumph in German Engineering!
ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR Ceramic chronograph, 44mm Matte black ceramic case, automatic movement officially certified to German DIN standard.
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Winter 2013/2014
No. 106
The Academy Awards of Watchmaking
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Page 36
Editor's Outline
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50 Rare Wheels The Lane Motor Museum by Stuart Leuthner and Robert Hofner
News
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Norman Bel Geddes by Stuart Leuthner
Previews A Gift for the Ages National Gallery of Art
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Chopard’s Modern Tribute to its Heritage by Carol Besler
Elgin Park The Miniature World of Michael Paul Smith by Stuart Leuthner
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The Academy Awards of Watchmaking
Heritage Timepiece Signature Auction
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Vacheron Constantin Expands its Operatons by Carol Besler
The Annual Goodwood Revival by Denis L. Tanney Rare Wheels The Lane Motor Museum
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Page 50
A Gift for the Ages National Gallery of Art by Stuart Leuthner
Page 56
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I Have Seen the Future:
Norman Bel Geddes Designs America
82 The Quail by Denis L. Tanney
94 Watch Collector
CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the December/January issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557
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Editor'S Outline It has been Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s vision, realized successfully, to establish a watchmaking operation that combines age-old hand craftsmanship with modern technology, resulting in high performance luxury pieces. For an inside look at the intricate process of high watchmaking, stepping inside the Chopard manufacture and finishing workshops in Fleurier and Geneva sheds light on why a luxury timepiece costs what it does, and what makes mechanical watchmaking at this level so special. See story on page 32. Vacheron Constantin, Switzerland’s oldest watch company is more than doubling the size of its manufacturing capacity. See story on page 40. The expansion will combine cutting-edge technologies with exclusive manual traditions. As an example of the Vacheron Constantin’s manual traditions, every single part of their movements is manually decorated on all surfaces, including those that will forever remain hidden when assembled. Each of the operations in the manufacturing process calls for exceptional mastery and dexterity. Vacheron Constantin has set up in-house training programs to ensure that these meticulous operations are executed according to the unique signature of a Vacheron Constantin watch. The Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix aims to acknowledge and reward yearly the most remarkable watchmaking art world-wide, irrespective of nationality. The Foundation of Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix was established in 2011, and annually organizes this Academy Awards of Watchmaking. The winners are pictured along with their categories. See story on page 36.
Three very enjoyable articles for lovers of cars are included in this issue. We start with a story entitled Rare Wheels, The Lane Motor Museum. Opened in 2003, the museum has a collection of more than 400 vehicles, with 150 cars, motorcycles and trucks on display at one time. It has a selection which includes several American automobiles that are so unusual that even car buffs are unaware of their existence. See the story of this remarkable collection on page 50. England hosts its own annual car event in Goodwood, England. It is a three day event and is called the Goodwood Revival. Charles Gordon-Lennox, Earl of March and Kinkara, is the man responsible for this retro event, which he calls “a magical step back in time”. Everyone dresses in period costumes that are creative, imaginative and decorative. For a description of the number of races held each day see the complete story starting on page 70.
M à Ja t th it eq t sy o
And finally, The Quail, a major event in The Week of the Car on the Monterey Peninsula. The story on page 82 provides a 360 degree coverage of the celebration of the automobile and the motorcycle in an intimate fashion, of an event that fosters a friendly atmosphere among owners and collectors.
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Chronos
One adjustment every 100 years. t he kind Of cOmplicatiOn that makes life easier.
Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Limited series of 180. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985. the all-mechanical programming of the perpetual calendar means the next time this watch needs adjustment will be at the turn of the century in 2100. to ensure its perfect precision throughout the many years to come, jaeger-lecoultre has equipped this model with a flying tourbillon featuring a cylindrical balance-spring. the oscillating weight is finely engraved with a gold medal received in 1889 – a symbol of the pioneering spirit that has been driving the inventors of the vallée de joux for 180 years.
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yO u d e s e rv e a r e a l Watc h.
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arceau le temps suspendu la montre hermès reinvents time and sets it to the tempo of your desires. press on the pushbutton and suspend time. beneath the dial, time continues to run within the heart of the mechanism. another push on the button sets the date and hands running again. time resumes its march, and you the course of your day. this exclusive hermès calibre is a world première.
hermès, time reinvented.
1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com
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news Jaeger-LeCoultre helps (RED) Auction A custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with unique red accents and a JaegerLeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch were created by the brand for inclusion in the (RED) Auction. The Deep Sea watch was customized with a unique red dial and the (RED) logo engraved on the back of the watch. The auction, held at Sotheby’s in November supports the charity started by musician and philanthropist Bono, and celebrates the very best of design and innovation. Pieces include objects from disciplines as diverse as space travel and lighting design to contemporary art and rare automobiles, all distinguished by their excellence and innovation. Proceeds from the sale benefited The Global Fund to fight AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria.
Winter 2013/2014
No. 106
PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jay Lazar ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind Watch & Jewelry Editor Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher TECHNICAL WRITER David Christianson AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea was created for the (RED) Auction.
PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING CIRCULATION 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with red accents was created for the (RED) Auction.
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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.
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Schaumburg Watch Ice Crystal
Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241
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Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684
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news Gucci gives to the Latin Grammys Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, an official partner of The Latin Recording Academy and sponsor of the annual Latin Grammy Awards, also sponsored the 2013 Latin Recording Academy Person of the Year tribute gala recently, honoring Latin Grammy winner Miguel Bosé. The partnership between Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry and The Latin Recording Academy began in 2011 with the launch of a special-edition collection of timepieces and jewelry inspired by the eclectic world of Latin music. This year, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry unveils the latest model from the Gucci Latin Grammy Collection. The interlocking case, available in a 42mm and a 37mm version, displays Gucci’s signature GG motif crafted in yellow gold PVD, and features a special caseback with the words “Latin GRAMMY Special Edition.” The black dial showcases a highly original circular-grained surface that recalls the grooves on a vinyl record and the black leather strap highlights a gramophone, the iconic symbol of the Latin Grammy. The 37mm version is also available on a white rubber strap with matching dial. A portion of the proceeds from all models in the collection benefit The Latin Recording Academy and its initiatives to support young and emerging artists on the international music scene and strengthen global awareness of the importance of Latin culture.
Miguel Bosé is the Latin Recording Academy Person of the Year.
Two new timepieces from Gucci’s Latin Grammy collection.
Golden Bridge on tour In the recently concluded “A Walk Through The Golden Bridge” tour of the United States, Corum and Vincent Calabrese, inventor of the Corum Golden Bridge timepiece model, hosted a series of press and VIP collectors’ events covering three major cities – New York, Miami and Los Angeles. Organized jointly with Wempe Jewelers in New York City, Levinson Jewelers in Miami and Chong Hing Jewelers in Los Angeles, Corum and Calabrese presented the history of the invention of the Golden Bridge, and the evolution of this iconic collection over the past 30 years. Invented in 1977, the Golden Bridge has a movement with linear gear trains, mounted within a transparent exterior and isolated in space without any visible connection. Several historical timepieces of the Corum Museum collection were on display, including the first Golden Bridge ever launched in 1980, as well as recent models from the Corum Bridges Collection. Ron Lee, chairman of Chong Hing Jewelers, and Vincent Calabrese.
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96475
©2013 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®
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Watch in high-tech ceramic. Moonphase complication with aventurine counter. Available in classic or diamond version. chAnel boutiques 800.550.0005 chAnel.coM
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news Hermès buys its case maker La Montre Hermès has acquired the entire share capital of Joseph Erard, a case manufacturer located in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, near La-Chaux-de-Fonds in the watchmaking district of Switzerland. The acquisition is part of the brand’s strategy to secure a longterm supply of essential components for its watch manufacture.
Hermès Pocket Watch Arceau.
IWC and Kevin Spacey read to kids at Harrods IWC Schaffhausen is proud to announce the release of two specialedition timepieces to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s timeless masterpiece “The Little Prince.” IWC has supported the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation since 2006. In honor of the occasion, IWC organized a reading from the book by Academy Award winner and IWC friend Kevin Spacey at Harrods in London. It was followed by an intimate dinner hosted by Spacey for IWC clients.
IWC friend Kevin Spacey reads to the children of the brand’s clients on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s timeless masterpiece “The Little Prince.” IWC supports the Antoine de SaintExupéry Youth Foundation.
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“The evening allowed us to honor Antoine de Saint-Exupéry for the great writer and humanist he was, from whom we, as a brand, draw much inspiration,” says Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen. “With our long tradition of manufacturing Pilot’s Watches, we feel bound to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in many ways. As a company with a strong sense of social responsibility, we are proud to have been the partners of the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation since 2006. We’re delighted that Kevin Spacey was able to join us for such an important anniversary celebration, knowing that he shares many of our humanitarian beliefs.” The two special-edition watches are the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVII Edition Le Petit Prince and the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition Le Petit Prince.
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©2013 movado group, inc.
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SE® PILOT STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPH WITH 42MM CASE, BI-LEVEL BLACK DIAL, SIGNATURE DOT MOTIF BRACELET. MOVADO.COM
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previews IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance The Automatic Carbon Performance (Ref. 3224) is made of one of watchmaking’s new hyper-tough, space-age materials: an epoxy resin soaked carbon fiber matting. It is manufactured using the same principle as the monocoque (one piece) safety shell of a Formula One racing car. The dial is also carbon fiber. The watch is a tribute to IWC’s association with the Formula One racing world. IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Carbon Red Magic This piece, part of the Big Bang Ferrari collection, has a carbon fiber case, as well as a carbon fiber and black PVD titanium lower bezel, on a black leather strap with red stitching. The dial is red sapphire, which gives the dial a rosy glow. Components of the self-winding chronograph flyback movement, caliber HUB1241, are visible on the dial. Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com
Romain Jerome Dia de los Muertos The vanitas motif is a hot look in watches at the moment, and a logical progression of the gothic black-on-black look that has dominated designs for the past few years. Romain Jerome’s Dia de los Muertos is named for Mexico’s annual celebration honoring the dead. The skull dial is enameled and decorated with diamonds and black sapphires. It has a self-winding movement, in a case of black PVD-coated steel. Romain Jerome +41 22 319 2939 www.romainjerome.ch
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previews Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Squelette The inner workings of the mechanically wound caliber ML134 skeleton movement are showcased through the sapphire crystal caseback of the Masterpiece Squelette. The bridges, disks, wheels and pinions are all finished down to the smallest detail. The bridges are treated with tantalum or gold colored PVD, coated with a satin finish that highlights their structured harmony and balance. The case is stainless steel with a satin polished finish. Maurice Lacroix 609-750-8800 www.mauricelacroix.com
Movado Museum Sport This dramatic, all-black model is the latest from the iconic Museum Sport collection. The 42mm black PVD-finished stainless steel case features a circular-brushed bezel and high-polished accents. The dial is minimalist; the only detail is Movado’s signature concave dot in black at 12 o’clock. It is balanced by a round date display at 6 o’clock. The bracelet is PVD-finished stainless steel, with satin-finished center links. It contains a Swiss quartz movement. Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com
Louis Moinet Stardance The Stardance features a spectacular moonphase indicator created from a fragment of the Enstatite EH3 meteorite, containing nano-diamonds believed to have been formed in cosmic collisions that occurred billions of years ago. It is surrounded by an aventurine circle representing the night sky, while the meteorite fragment represents the moon. The motherof-pearl dial features Louis Moinet’s signature côtes du Jura guillochè. The bezel is set with diamonds. Louis Moinet +41 32 753 6814 www.louismoinet.com 18
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raymond-weil.com | maestro collection
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previews Bell & Ross BR Tornado The BR 03-94 Tornado is a commemorative timepiece developed as a tribute to the 30th anniversary MRCA 75 (Multi-Role Combat Aircraft 1975), which became known as the Tornado, jointly developed by the UK, Germany and Italy during the 1970s and put into active service in 1982. The limited edition of 50 watches is water-resistant to 100 meters, and is powered by a mechanical movement with a two-counter chronograph and a power reserve of 40 hours. Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com
Eberhard & Co. Scafodat 500 This ultra diving watch is water resistant to 500 meters. The large crown at 4 o’clock on the case side is equipped with a special security device that controls the inner rotating flange to time dives. A helium escape valve ensures decompression for deep dives. The caseback is locked in with six screws, ensuring water resistance. It also features a date window at 3 o’clock. Eberhard & Co. 603-206-5195 www.eberhard-co-watches.ch
Baume & Mercier Capeland World Timer This limited edition watch has a 24-city time zone indicator. The case is satin-finished steel, and the dial is a rich blue, with Breguettype hands and a sapphire crystal caseback. The caseback indicates “Limited Edition” and the number out of 100. The strap is black alligator with a pin buckle. Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com
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8,375X1
WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 pieces Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
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previews Ulysse Nardin Classico Cloisonné – Pride of Baltimore The highly crafted enamel dial on this timepiece depicts the Baltimore Clippers used as privateers, or legal pirates during the War of 1812. Over 500mm of fine gold wire is needed to make the cloisons – borders for the enamel. It takes 50 working hours and 26 processes to complete each cloisonné dial. Contains self-winding UN caliber 815. Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com
Officine Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days The Radiomir bears not only the original iconic case design of this brand, but the original signature California dial with its combination of Arabic and Roman numerals. It is protected by a Plexiglas crystal instead of a sapphire one, an element descended from the models created at the end of the 1930s by Panerai for the Royal Italian Navy with their crystals made of polymethyl methacrylate. The movement is a hand-wound mechanical caliber Panerai P.3000. Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com
David Yurman Classic Black Chronograph These stylish, black-on-black men’s timepieces from the David Yurman collection contain a Dubois Depraz caliber 2045 selfwinding chronograph movement with an ETA base. It has a 40-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph seconds and a minute totalizer. The 46mm case is black PVD, with an integrated cable motif design: a David Yurman signature. It is water resistant to 30 meters. David Yurman 877-908-1177 www.davidyurman.com 22
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previews Hublot Big Bang Caviar The Hublot Big Bang Caviar in gold is an ingenious design hybrid that contains two seemingly opposing qualities at once: it is one of the flashiest of timepieces, yet also very minimalist. The case and dial are made of shiny 5N red gold, and 36 diamonds adorn the bezel. There is also a shiny gold colored strap. Yet the watch is sleek and uncluttered. It contains the caliber HUB1112 self-winding movement. At 41mm this can be either a men’s or a ladies’ watch. Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon Dualtime This high complication watch with Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 978B, is from the brand’s venerable Master Collection, which honors the fundamental elements of the classic round mechanical watch. It features not just a tourbillon escapement but a second time zone on the inner bezel. The date indication is adjustable in both directions and makes a bigger jump between the 15th and the 16th so as not to obstruct the view of the titanium tourbillon carriage. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
Piaget Altiplano Date Piaget prides itself on its history of world records for creating the world’s thinnest timepieces and movements. With the Piaget caliber 1205P, the brand has scored again, with the world’s thinnest automatic movement, at just 3 mm thick. It is housed in a 6.36 mm case made of 18k white gold. The Altiplano has a date display at 9 o’clock and small seconds at 5 o’clock. Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com 24
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Cristiano Ronaldo
EPIC SF 24
Split Flap Display 45mm 18K Rose Gold Automatic Movement C h e m i n d e P l e i n - Ve n t 1 ch-1228 Geneve, Switzerland +41.22.310.6962 jacobandco.com
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previews Zenith Goes Lightweight and Legible Technical innovation and user-friendliness are two of the most important elements of modern watchmaking, and Zenith achieves both with two new models: the El Primero Striking 10th Lightweight Chronograph and the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar. The Lightweight version of the Striking 10th is made of carbon. It has a high strength-to-weight ratio, which makes it ideal for sports watches and a distinctive matrix that gives it an unmistakably sporty look. The open-worked movement is also made of space-age materials: titanium and silicon – the double chronograph wheel and escape wheel are silicon, while the mainplate and five bridges are made of titanium, a light and resistant metal widely used in aeronautics. Also contributing to its lightweight qualities is the Nomex synthetic fiber strap. Legibility is key in an annual calendar watch, since there is a lot of information to convey on a small canvas. With the Captain Winsor, Zenith adds a small seconds and chronograph function to an annual calendar and still manages to look sleek and classic. The watch contains the high-frequency El Primero automatic caliber 4054, with small seconds at 9 o’clock and a chronograph function with minute totalizer, all in addition to the day, date and month indicators. Hublot 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com
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Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar
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TAVAN
Swiss Craftsmanship... Unprecedented Value
La JoLie Ladies CoLLeCtion
TAVANNES WATCH CO (USA) LLC P.O. Box 85 | Valencia, PA 16059 | 412.600.4240 info@tavannes-watch.com www.tavannes-watch.com
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previews Montblanc Times the World This brand, with a watch manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, has become as famous for its innovative timepieces as for its writing instruments. Two new models attest to the inventive spirit of Montblanc. The TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres is a 24-city world timer that is made in both Northern and Southern Hemisphere versions. The ring of place names on the Northern Hemisphere model consists solely of locations north of the Equator, while the southern counterpart bears only the names of places situated south of the Equator. The two editions are equipped with totally separate movements, each reflecting 24 time zones. The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours is a jumping hour with a twist. The central numeral in the window at 12 o’clock reveals not only the hour, but whether it is an hour of the day or an hour of the night. How does this work? The numerals 1 to 12 are cut out, skeleton-fashion, from an upper disk, which rotates above a bicolour day/night disc so that either a light or dark hue appears behind the numeral – blue for night time hours and black for day. In the picture shown, the 6 is ingeniously dual-toned to indicate that day is ending and night is falling. Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com
Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres
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Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours
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Goes Hollywood 88 RUE DU RHONE demonstrates its affiliation with the world of cinema in the new 2014 collection. Specifically, it commemorates its three-year official time sponsorship of BAFTA, the British Academy of Film and Television Arts. Why cinema? “What is most important for me is the message delivered in movies, the telling of a story with a meaning. This is what we want also for our watches,” says brand CEO Pierre Bernheim. “In designing the watches for 88 RUE DU RHONE’s 2014 collection, we wanted each watch to tell a story, to embody Old Hollywood class and style, but with a modern twist.” The timepieces in the new collection reflect the design codes of the 1960s, which have been updated. “Vintage style is trendy at the moment, and we felt by Carol Besler this era associated with the cinema
universe was very glamorous and sophisticated and, at the same time, accessible,” says Bernheim. The new collection is also inspired by travel, particularly romantic getaways and luxurious retreats. “The timepieces are meant to delight, to dazzle, and represent the style of the watch-wearer,” says Bernheim. “We want to reflect an elegant style while remaining classic but contemporary. We have played a lot with our lucky number, 8, in our new collection.” The new collection will be officially unveiled in March at Baselworld, the watch and jewelry show held annually in Basel, Switzerland. 88 RUE DU RHONE exhibits in Booth A88.
Pierre Bernheim, CEO of 88 RUE DU RHONE
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Sleek and sophisticated, this 35mm Quartz watch is an 88 RUE DU RHONE stunner. 88 diamonds encrusted on the crown and face glitter against the bold black face and black leather band. The rose gold Roman numerals offer a beautiful pop of color to this chic and stylish timepiece.
Deep black on black with flashes of rose gold Arabic numerals, crown and “8” seconds hand raises this stunning 88 RUE DU RHONE timepiece to a new level of enigmatic urban chic. With a bright white date window at 3 o’clock and matt black leather strap with alligator padding this watch makes a dramatic statement.
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Chopard’s modern tribute to its heritage An inside look at the intricate process of high watchmaking
by Carol Besler
The new Chopard Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph is the latest limited-edition watch in the Mille Miglia series. For the design, Chopard partnered with Zagato, the legendary maker of bespoke sports car bodies. The caseback is etched with the Mille Miglia logo – 1000 in an arrow – and a Zagato inscription
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tepping inside the Chopard manufacture and finishing workshops in Fleurier and Geneva is a lesson in high watchmaking. Twenty-five different crafts are performed at Chopard, most of them by hand and by sight. The process sheds light on why a luxury timepiece costs what it does, and what makes mechanical watchmaking at this level so special. Chopard’s reputation as a maker of redcarpet worthy jewelry often overshadows the fact that the company actually began life in 1860 as one of Switzerland’s original watch manufacturers. It was started by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (hence the title of the collection that contains its manufacture movements – L.U.C), in the Swiss Jura town of Sonvilier. After
the quartz revolution, and success with many timepiece collections (including the iconic Happy Diamonds and Mille Miglia) using movements made by outside manufacturers, the company began the process of producing movements from start to finish in 1996. In doing so, co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele took the brand back to its fundamental vocation. His sister Caroline Scheufele is co-president in charge of the jewelry division. Today, Chopard produces nine distinct families of watch movements, with 50 movement variations, including a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon. In 2007, the Chopard Group acquired Fleurier ébauches, where mechanical movements are being manufactured industrially. This
year, Fleurier ébauches produced 7,000 movements, up from 3,000 only two years ago. The goal is 15,000 by 2015. As production increases, the company’s reliance on outside ébauches diminishes. As of next year, for example, all watches in the Mille Miglia collection will contain Chopard-made movements. The Imperiale and L.U.C collections already contain in-house movements. All watches bearing the Geneva Seal are cased in Geneva, and everything that is Geneva Seal certified falls into the L.U.C collection. Many of the watches are also certified by the Fleurier Quality Foundation, which was jointly created in 2001 by four local watch manufactures: Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier, Bovet Fleurier and Vaucher Manufacture, all of which are located in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland. In order to meet the certification criteria, any watch tested here is subject to the following conditions: • The movement must be COSC-certified • The movement must have passed an “aging” test called the Chronofiable • The movement must attain an exclusive aesthetic quality of finish • The rating of the finished watch must be vouched for by the Fleuritest machine
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In-house trained complications watchmakers assemble and adjust the Chopard L.U.C movements that bear the Geneva Seal hallmark, working from a kit of components. Assembling a single tourbillon carriage takes two days.
The Chronofiable test basically accelerates the aging process of a watch by a factor of eight. A series of tests over three weeks simulate the effects of wear over a six-month period, during which the movement, in varying stages of encasement, is subjected to a variety of mechanical and physical constraints – shocks, accelerations, variations in temperature. The watch is performance-tested throughout the ordeal, according to precision, power reserve and efficiency of the different functions. The Chronofiable test is carried out exclusively by the Dubois laboratory at La Chaux-de-Fonds. It differs from COSC certification in that it is based on a sampling procedure rather than single examples. The Fleuritest is a 24-hour test that recreates the movements of a wearer’s 34
potential activities, alternating between active, extremely active and calmer phases. Variations in the timekeeping rate are monitored throughout. The precision of the watch must fall within the range of 0 to +5 seconds per day. At the end of testing, the watch receives FQF (Flourier Quality Foundation) certification, which can be engraved on the watch. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s vision was to establish a watchmaking operation that combines age-old hand craftsmanship with modern technology, resulting in high-performance luxury timepieces. All in-house movements are built with Chopard-made components (everything but the screws) and Chopard-made tools. All crafts people are trained in-house to ensure consistency of craftsmanship. “In my view, a brand can only fully exist in the field of haute horlogerie by achieving
complete control of the making of its timepieces: design and development, production and assembly, movements and exteriors,” says Scheufele. “Chopard has chosen to give precedence to hand craftsmanship, even when this choice involves higher production costs,” he says. “It is the kind of choice only a family business could make, thanks to an entirely independent structure, unbound by the demands of immediate profit stemming from external investors unaware of the nature of fine watchmaking.” Assembling a team of highly trained bench jewelers, movement assemblers, engravers and watchmakers – to name a few of the trades engaged at the Chopard manufacture is not an easy task. Chopard therefore operates its own craftsmanship training programs at the Chopard Forum, a restored 18th-century mansion in
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Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, at the opening of the Chopard Forum, where the company’s craftsmen receive training on the specific arts of high watchmaking.
Fleurier that was acquired and renovated for the purpose in 2010. The mansion serves as a guest house where visitors and trainees can stay and learn. The Forum trains up to 20 apprentices each year, from balance fitters to gem setters, who learn the signature crafts that go into the making of a Chopard watch or piece of jewelry. The manufacture is a contrast of old and new. At Fleurier Ébauches, rows of shiny new CNC machines create the blanks – main plates and bridges – from
A beveller at work. This is also called chamfering, and involves using a cutter and file to create 45-degree angles to replace the sharp right angles of the plate and other components that are made by automated machines.
brass plates. One of these machines, the size of a small elephant, has an impressive nine robotic-like arms that churn out a new plate every four minutes (compared to every 45 minutes using a manual stamping machine). It does this to within tolerances of one micron (one-thousandth of a millimeter). Everything else – chamfering, engraving, perlage, "cotes de Genéve" – has the human touch, using techniques, and in some cases tools, that have been used by watchmakers for more than a century.
During my visit, I witnessed the chamfering of the plate for the special-edition Mille Miglia Zagato, launched in Milan in October. I also had a glimpse of the preparation of the dial and the placement of the gem-set bridge of a new Happy Sport Tourbillon, due for release at Baselworld 2014, coming up in March. We will have to wait until then to show you the new masterpieces.
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The Academy Awards of Watchmaking Winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Academy Awards of the Swiss watchmaking industry, were announced in November in Geneva.
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he Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) was created in 2001. The Foundation of Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix was established in 2011. The five founding members are: the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the City of Geneva, the Musée International de l’Horlogerie/International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and
Revival Prize: Tudor, Heritage Black Bay.
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Microengineering and the Edipresse group. The board is chaired by Carlo Lamprecht, former president of the Geneva State Council. The main objective of the Foundation is to help promote Swiss watchmaking and its values around the world. The Foundation annually organizes the GPHG, which is intended to salute the excellence of worldwide horological
production and annually rewards the finest creations and the most important operators in the watchmaking sector. The ceremony is held in November of each year at the Grand Théâtre de Genève. An Advisory Committee, consisting of members of the industry, meets annually and advises members of the Foundation board regarding the selection of the jury. In addition, there was a public prize
Men’s Complications Watch Prize: Romain Gauthier, Logical One.
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this year, in response to demand on the Internet and during the exhibitions, and the winner was A. Lange & Söhne, 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar That makes two wins for Lange. In addition, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie honored Walter Lange with
the Hommage à la Passion for his lifetime achievement. The jury of 18 international watch experts praised him as “the man who engineered the fabulous reawakening of A. Lange & Söhne.” (A. Lange & Söhne’s other prizes this year include first prize for Grand Complication at the
Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) in Mexico City, the most Complicated Watch and Watch of the Year 2013 prize at a competition organized by the watch portal Chronos24.pl in Warsaw. In total, the brand won 19 awards in 2013.)
Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, L’Heure du Diamant.
Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée.
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Chanel, Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé.
Ladies’ Watch Prize: DeLaneau, Rondo Translucent Champagne.
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“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: Habring2, Jumping Second Pilot.
Sports Watch Prize: Zenith, El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th.
Grande Complication Prize: A. Lange & Söhne, 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.
Horological Revelation Prize: Ressence, Type 3.
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Innovation Prize: Vianney Halter, Deep Space Tourbillon.
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: Girard-Perregaux, Constant Escapement L.M.
Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen, V-8R.
A special Jury prize was awarded to independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour.
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Expands its operations Switzerland’s oldest watch company inaugurates a state-of-the-art manufacture and celebrates its heritage with a new minute repeater by Carol Besler
At the opening ceremony of the Vacheron Constantin manufacture from left to right: Juan Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin, Anne Catherine Lyon Conseiller of Vaud, Philippe Leuba, Conseiller of Vaud and Jeannine Rainaud Meylan, Mayor of Chenit.
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acheron Constantin is more than doubling the size of its manufacturing capacity. The luxury watch company recently opened a new manufacture in Le Brassus, in Switzerland’s famed Vallée de Joux, and will double the size of its assembly and finishing facility to 17,000 square meters
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in Plan-les-Ouates, a suburb of Geneva. The expansion anticipates an extended period of growth, according to the brand. “This new component manufacturing site is a significant step for our Maison,” points out Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO, Vacheron Constantin. “Not only will it enable us to develop our production capacity and to
incorporate new skills, but it even more significantly demonstrates our confidence in the future and our capacity to look to the long term.” The 7,000-square-meter manufacture in Le Brassus will employ more than 200 people – bringing the brand’s total staff to 900 – and is exclusively dedicated to
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watch component production. Other tasks, such as movement assembly, casing-up and final quality controls are handled in the manufacture in Plan-lesOuates. The global investment for this expansion amounts to over 30 million Swiss francs, and will combine cutting-edge technologies alongside exclusive manual traditions. Over 40 professions are now exercised at the new manufacture, from prototype-making and decoration to hand engraving and quality control testing. Every single part of Vacheron Constantin’s mechanical movements are manually decorated on all surfaces, even those that will remain forever hidden. The chamfering of the components that go into an openworked tourbillon requires over a month’s work by an experienced chamferer. Just the carriage bridge alone calls for 12 hours of chamfering, and each tourbillon has two of them. Over 1,500 separate beads or spots that make up the circular-grained or stippled motif on a self-winding movement’s mainplate must be arranged in perfect succession on a very small surface. Each of these operations calls for exceptional mastery and dexterity, and Vacheron Constantin has therefore set up in-house training programs to ensure these meticulous Component manufacturing at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. decorative operations are executed according to the unique signature of a Vacheron Constantin watch. The manufacture in is the thinnest minute repeater caliber (3.90mm) and thinnest Le Brassus will eventually handle the training of apprentices in all minute repeater watch (8.09mm) on the market, says Vacheron. sectors of production. Vacheron Constantin aims to have 100% On demand, the repeater sounds the hours, quarter hours and of its production certified by the prestigious Hallmark of Geneminutes. After activating the repeater slide, a hammer strikes the va. low-pitched gong to mark the hours, while the quarters are played Coinciding with this inauguration, the brand has introduced by two hammers on the two gongs, one low-pitched and the other a new minute repeater as evidence of its dedication to the values high-pitched. The minutes are sounded on the high-pitched of high watchmaking and innovation. The Geneva Hallmark gong. The gongs are not only connected to the case middle to certified Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Caliber 1731 amplify the sound, but also for the first time stacked rather than Winter 2013/2014
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Applying Cotes de Geneve or “Geneva Stripes” at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture.
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Caliber 1731.
Hand bevelling the Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross.
placed side by side, resulting in optimal sound. The true soul of a repeater watch, the individual chime of each watch, is recorded and carefully stored before it leaves the manufacture, thus constituting 42
Circular graining or “perlage” at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture.
a “soundprint” registered in the Vacheron Constantin archives. This procedure guarantees not only the lifelong repair of all its timepieces, both historical and contemporary, but also the ability to
restore within its workshops the unique sound of each model equipped with a minute repeater. Vacheron Constantin made its first minute repeater pocket watch in 1810.
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The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline. In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully ďƒ&#x;at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time.
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A Gift for the Ages
National Gallery of Art by Stuart Leuthner
Rembrandt van Rijn, Self-Portrait Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
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n Christmas day, 1936, President Franklin Roosevelt received a letter from Andrew Mellon. One of the nation's wealthiest men, Mellon, served as Secretary of the Treasury during the Harding, Coolidge and Hoover administrations. "Over a period of many years," Mellon wrote, "I have been acquiring important and rare
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Gilbert Stuart, Abigail Smith Adams (Mrs. John Adams) Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
paintings and sculpture with the idea that ultimately they would become the property of the people of the United States and be made available to them in a national art gallery to be maintained in the City of Washington for the purpose of encouraging and developing a study of the fine arts.” “By reason of the rarity and importance of these works of art, the general character of
Titian, Cardinal Pietro Bembo Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
the collection is such that it will furnish the nucleus of a great National Collection and will give our country at once a National Gallery that will rank with the other great galleries of the world." Roosevelt wrote back, " … I was not only completely taken by surprise but was delighted by your very wonderful offer to the people of the United States."
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Mellon had several conditions for his gift: the federal government had to build on the site he selected, had to accept a board of trustees which had some independence from the government and the building would be designed by John Russell Pope, the architect responsible for the Jefferson Memorial and the National Archives. Mellon also stipulated the gallery not be named after him because he hoped other donors would be inspired to add to the collection. Roosevelt accepted Mellon's offer and the National Gallery of Art was established in 1937, by a joint resolution of the United States Congress. Located on Washington's National Mall, construction was completed by December 1940, and on March 17,
America (now Alcoa). President Warren G. Harding named Mellon Secretary of the Treasury in 1921, a position he held until 1932. He also spent one year as the U. S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James in London. Mellon became interested in collecting art in the late 1800s. According to John Walker, the National Gallery of Art's second director (1956-1969), Mellon was purchasing "overvalued Barbizon painters and their entourage." As his knowledge of the arts expanded, Mellon began to collect works by Gainsborough and Sir Joshua Reynolds, paintings that Walker believed, "offered him an escape into an ideal world." In the late 1920s, Russia urgently needed money to fund
Edgar Degas, The Dance Lesson Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
1941, Paul Mellon presented the museum on behalf of his father to President Roosevelt who accepted the gift for the nation. Andrew Mellon did not live to see his dream completed – he died in 1937– but today the National Art Gallery stands as a tribute to one man's selfless vision. Andrew Mellon was born on March 24, 1855. His father Thomas made a fortune in banking and according to one biographer Andrew "took his father's small fortune and turned it into a large one." Living in Pittsburgh provided Mellon access to the industrial heart of the country and he was extremely successful, funding several companies including the Aluminum Company of
the Five Year Plan. The State Hermitage Museum in Leningrad was instructed to sell 250 paintings, including many masterpieces. Mellon heard about the sale from Knoedler and Company of New York, dealers which he regularly used for his art purchases. Mellon purchased twenty-one masterpieces including several Rembrandts, van Eycks and The Alba Madonna by Raphael. Mellon paid $1,166,400 for the latter, the largest sum paid for a single painting at the time. In 1937, Andrew Mellon donated the twenty-one paintings, along with the money to build a National Gallery of Art to house them, to the United States Government. The paintings became the heart of the National Gallery of Art. Winter 2013/2014
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About the Gallery The original museum, now known as the West Building has formal entrances on all four sides. Built in the form of an elongated H, the floor plan centers on a rotunda modeled after the ancient Roman Pantheon. Works by European masters from the medieval period through the late 19th century, as well as pre-20th century works by American artists are exhibited in galleries that reflect their period and national origin. Renaissance galleries feature Italian travertine wainscot and hand-finished plaster walls. Wood paneling evokes original settings in the Dutch 17th-century galleries.
The West Building at night ŠDennis Brack/Black Star National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gallery Archives
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In 1967, the decision was made to expand the National Gallery of Art. Planning ahead, Mellon had requested Congress to set aside an adjacent plot of land. His children, Paul Mellon and Alisa Mellon Bruce provided the funds for a second building and I. M. Pei was selected as the architect. Construction began in 1971 and on June 1, 1978, Paul Mellon and President Jimmy Carter dedicated the new building to the people of the United States. Providing a contemporary counterpoint to the classic West Building, Pei's design for the East Building was inspired
by its trapezoidal site. The Tennessee quarries that supplied the marble for the West Building were reopened to insure there would be a visual harmony between the two very different structures. Focusing on modern and contemporary art, the West Building is connected to the East Building by an underground concourse featuring Multiverse, a sculpture of moving lights. Created by American artist Leo Villareal, it is one of the world's largest and most complex light sculptures. Located on a six-acre site immediately west of the West Building, the museum's sculpture garden was designed by
The East Building at night ŠDennis Brack/Black Star National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gallery Archives
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Marc Chagall, Russian, 1887 – 1985 Orphée, 1969 Stone and glass mosaic National Gallery of Art, Washington The John U. and Evelyn S. Nef Collection
Robert Indiana AMOR, conceived 1998, executed 2006 National Gallery of Art, Washington Gift of Simon and Gillian Salama-Caro in Memory of Ruth Klausner ©2012 Morgan Art Foundation / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
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Alexander Calder's mobile Untitled has gracefully presided over the East Building’s atrium since it was installed in November 1977. ©Dennis Brack/Black Star National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gallery Archives
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landscape architect Laurie D. Olin. Anchoring the garden is a circular reflecting pool and fountain. Visitors strolling the arcing paths are treated to plantings of native America trees, perennials and flowering annuals providing a distinctive setting for monumental sculpture. The benches surrounding the fountain and piers at the entrances are made of the same Tennessee marble used for the West and East Buildings. Jazz concerts are offered on Friday nights during the summer and when the weather turns cold, the reflecting pool is transformed into an ice-skating rink. Millions of visitors to the National Gallery of Art can thank Andrew Mellon for a gift that continues to amaze, surprise and educate. When asked why he collected art, Mellon explained, "Everyman wants to connect his life with something he thinks is eternal."
Claude Monet, Woman with a Parasol - Madame Monet and her Son Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
If you would like more information about the National Gallery of Art, including general information, exhibitions, programs and events, the museum can be reached at 202-737-4215 or visit their website at www.nga.gov.
Winslow Homer, Breezing Up (A Fair Wind) Courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington
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:
by Stuart Leuthner
Housed in a former Sunbeam Bread bakery, the Lane Motor Museum has a total of more than 400 vehicles, with 150 cars, motorcycles and trucks on display at one time. With few exceptions, no barriers surround the cars providing visitors an opportunity to get up close and personal
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Rare Wheels The Lane Motor Museum by Stuart Leuthner and Robert Hofner Photographs provided by Lane Motor Museum
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isitors to the 1934 Prague Auto Show gathered around a vehicle that appeared to have materialized from the pages of an H.G. Wells' novel. Long, low and stealthy, the car's seductive skin had been carefully designed to achieve maximum performance, fuel economy and comfort: a rounded front contour to provide minimum wind resistance; recessed door handles; fender skirts encasing the rear wheels and a long sloping tail sporting a dorsal fin. The car causing all the excitement was a Tatra T-77. Built in Czechoslovakia,
the T-77 was the first truly aerodynamic automobile put into serial production. Writing in Motor Journal magazine, journalist Vilen Heinz observed, "It is a sensation when it comes to its construction, to its appearance and to its performance. The ideological principle of the new Tatra is an understanding that the car is moving at the divining line between the ground and the air. It is a car, and that fact opens new perspectives to the car construction and automotive practice." Underneath the streamlined sheet metal, the T-77 offered a host of mechanical innovations. The rear-mounted, overhead
valve, air-cooled V-8 engine eliminated the traditional transmission and driveshaft tunnel, providing a spacious environment for six passengers. A low center of gravity, along with a fully independent suspension, benefited the car's handling. Extensive use of light-weight alloy including the engine block, cylinder heads and transmission reduced the car's weight and allowed the modest 59 hp engine to push the car up to a very respectable 87 mph. Tatra's roots can be traced to the Sustala Wagon Works, located in Nesseldorfer, Moravia (now the Czech Republic). Founded in 1850, Sustala
The streamlined body of the Tatra T-97 allowed it to reach a top speed of eighty miles per hour. This was a major accomplishment in 1938, especially when it was accomplished with a four-cylinder engine producing forty horsepower. After Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia, he ordered Tatra to end production of the T-97 since it threatened the Volkswagen. Only 508 examples were produced between 1936 and 1938
The McQuay-Norris Streamliner's dash is fitted with a multitude of gauges to monitor the Ford flathead V-8 engine's performance. A single seat was provided for the driver with room behind the seat for a suitcase and a blow-by meter (to calibrate the performance of the engine's piston rings and valves)
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Constructed of steel and aluminum over a wood framework, this McQuay-Norris Streamliner was one of six built in 1933/1934 to promote the company's line of automobile replacement parts. Drivers have to be extremely careful when backing up since visibility is excellent except to the rear
built wagons, carriages and railroad cars. By the late 1890s, the company, now doing business as Nesseldorfer Wagenbau Fabriks Gesellschaft (Nesseldorfer Car Body Construction Company) had produced a horseless carriage called the "President" and a flatbed truck. At the end of World War I, the company's name was changed to Tatra, after the nearby mountain range. Austrian mechanical engineer Hans Ledwinka was the man responsible for Tatra's foray into modernism. Originally hired as a draftsman in 1897, Ledwinka left Nesseldorfer several times to pursue other interests. Returning in 1921, he was given the title of chief engineer and technical director and began to explore the possibility of a streamlined car powered by a rear-mounted engine. During the early 1930s, Art Moderne was in full swing and industrial designers were streamlining everything from toasters to locomotives. Ledwinka, in conjunction with Hungarian designer Paul Jaray, produced a prototype vehicle called the V-570. Jaray, who began his career designing dirigibles for Luftschiffbau Zeppelin, moved to Switzerland in 1923, and began to research streamlined car designs based on wind tunnel tests. Tatra was one of several manufacturers to apply Jaray's principles to vehicle production. A year after the introduction of the T-77, Tatra produced the T-77A. Improvements included sixteen more
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horsepower, additional louvers and air scoops to aid engine cooling, a threepiece windshield, swiveling center headlight (thirteen years before Tucker), a sliding canvas roof and leather upholstery. Several other models were built during the late 1930s, including the T-97, a car with a striking resemblance to what became known as the Volkswagen Beetle. Adolph Hitler was a big fan of Tatras and is reported to have said, "This is the car for my roads." Ferdinand Porsche admitted he had "looked over Ledwinka's shoulders" while designing the Beetle and Ledwinka sued Volkswagen for patent theft. Hitler said he would take care of the problem, but after he invaded Czechoslovakia, the German Transport Ministry ordered Tatra to cease production of the T-97 and concentrate on military vehicles. At the end of World War II, Tatra found itself behind the Iron Curtain. Ledwinka was accused of collaborating with the Germans and spent six years in a Czechoslovakian jail. Refusing to return to Tatra, he worked as a consultant and was inducted into the European Automotive Hall of Fame in 2007. In 1961, Volkswagen paid Tatra's heirs three million Deutsche Marks to settle the T-97/Beetle dispute.
Tatra continued to produce cars, but production was limited with the majority of the vehicles reserved for Communist bureaucrats. In 1999, the last Tatra passenger car rolled off the assembly line while the company continues to produce commercial vehicles for civilian and military applications. Since Tatra made no effort to distribute their vehicles in the west, the cars are extremely rare in the U.S. A handful can be found in private collections (Clive Cussler and Jay Leno own Tatras) but the largest number of the unique vehicles, twenty-three at the present time, can be seen at the Lane Motor Museum in Nashville, Tennessee. Models cover the spectrum of Tatra’s history including a 1927 T-12 pickup truck, 1935 T-57, 1938 T-97, 1950 T-600 Tatraplan and a 1980 T-613 ambulance. Opened in 2003, the Lane Motor Museum is located in a spacious renovated building built by Sunbeam Bakery in 1951. The collection totals more than 400 vehicles, with 150 cars, motorcycles and Winter 2013/2014
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Jeff Lane in the 1955 MG TF 1500 he received in pieces for Christmas when he was twelve. Restoring the car led to Jeff's love of automobiles and the creation of the Lane Motor Museum. Although sales of the TF were less than spectacular because enthusiasts were tired of the MG-T series, the TF is considered by many collectors to be the most beautiful of the T-series
Built by the Martin Aircraft Company in 1928, this Martin Aerodynamic is powered by a rear-engine Continental four-cylinder engine. Three prototypes were constructed, but this is the only survivor. Any hope of putting the car into production was waylaid by the Depression. A single door provides access to the back seat
French engineer Marcel Leyat believed propeller-driven automobiles were the wave of the future. Simpler and cheaper, they would also provide better fuel economy. The Lane Museum's Leyat Helico was built in 1919. Unable to secure financing necessary for large scale production, Leyat was only able to build twenty-five Helicos
Built on the Isle of Man in 1965, the Peel Trident is the consummate bubble car. Weighing 300 pounds, it is powered by a two-cycle motorcycle engine. A journalist suggested that the top speed of the car is dependent on the size of the steak that the driver ate for dinner. The author had an opportunity to drive a Trident. In addition to the car being extremely confining and producing claustrophobia, the car’s interior was soon turned into an oven by the sun. Approximately fortyfive examples were produced
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trucks on display at one time. Although the majority of the vehicles are European and Japanese, a selection of American automobiles is also included. Several of the latter are so unusual even car buffs are unaware of their existence. Jeff Lane, the museum's founder and president grew up in Romeo, Michigan. His first car was a 1955 MG TF given to him in pieces as a Christmas present when he was twelve. With his father's help, he spent the next four years restoring the car and drove it when he took his driver's license test. After graduating from Vanderbilt with a degree in mechanical engineering, he worked at a couple of jobs before moving to Nashville and opening a vending business. Lane started to seriously collect cars in the late 1990s, concentrating on unusual and technically advanced European
vehicles. "By 2001," Lane explains, "I had seventy-five cars stored all over town in several buildings, the basement under my business and a bunch of garages. It was time to stop or do something with them." In addition to the Tatras, the Lane Museum features a fascinating group of microcars built after World War II including a 1958 BMW Isetta, 1957 Messerschmitt KR-200, 1959 Fram King Fulda and a 1965 Peel P50. At the other end of the spectrum, a LARC-LX (Lighter, Amphibious, Resupply, Cargo) built for the U.S. Army in 1959. Over sixty-two feet long with nine-foot tires, the behemoth is powered by four Detroit Diesel engines. Designed to transport sixty tons of supplies across water and land, it is capable of entering and exiting the shore through breaking surf. Propeller driven cars are represented
by a 1932 Helicron, a 1919 Leyat Helico and a 1929 "wind wagon" constructed by fifteen-year old American Ted Jameson from plans in The Boy Mechanic. America is also represented by a one-of-a-kind Martin Aerodynamic. Built in 1928 by the Martin Aircraft Company, it has a single door which provides access to the back seat. Any hopes of the car going into production were dashed by the Depression. Another oddity, the McQuayNorris Streamliner, built in 1933, is one of six used to promote the St. Louis, Missouri company's automotive parts. Fabricated from steel and aluminum over a wood frame and powered by a Ford flathead V-8 engine, the vehicle is fitted with a multitude of gauges to impress prospective customers with the Ford engine’s performance. With few exceptions, the Lane Motor Museum's cars are not "hanger queens"; they run. "The whole purpose of the museum is to educate people about cars," Jeff Lane explains. "To me, the ultimate education about a car is to drive it. Riding in it is good, but driving is better." If you would like more information about this remarkable collection, the Lane Motor Museum can be reached at 615742-7445 or www.lanemotormuseum.org
Gary Davis, a Southern California salesman was the man behind the Davis Divan. So called because the roomy three-wheel vehicle could sit four across on a single bench seat, power in this example is provided by a four-cylinder Henry J engine. In 1948, production and financial problems put Davis not only out of business, but in jail. Only sixteen running Davis Divans were built
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Norman Bel Geddes' Transformation of Society through Design by Stuart Leuthner
: In 1929, Norman Bel Geddes, assisted by engineer Otto Koller, turned his attention to the skies. Twice the size of a modern-day 747, Airliner Number 4 (never built) was designed to compete with the luxury passenger liners crossing the Atlantic. Providing accommodations for 451 passengers and a crew of 155, the nine-story behemoth included an area set aside for deck games, a fully-equipped gymnasium and a main dining room with a platform for an orchestra to provide music for dancing. Twenty 1,900 horsepower engines would provide the power to enable the plane to cruise at a stately 100 mph at 5,000 feet. If an engine failed, spares were available that could be changed in flight. The ailing power plant would then be taken to a machine shop and repaired. Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation.
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ho was Norman Bel Geddes? Unlike fellow designers Raymond Loewy, Henry Dreyfuss and Walter Dorwin Teague, Bel Geddes is not well known today. I Have Seen the Future: Norman Bel Geddes Designs America, an exhibition currently on display at the Museum of the City of New York will certainly help to correct
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this slight. Curated and organized by Donald Albrecht, the museum's curator of architecture and design, the exhibit, drawing on Bel Geddes' archives at the University of Texas is the first full-scale Bel Geddes retrospective covering his entire career. It is a tribute long overdue. On Monday, January 16, 1939, Eugene Du Bois, the managing editor
of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle visited the Manhattan factory of the George R. Wittbold Company. Housed in once was William Randolph Hearst's movie studio, Wittbold was one of the firms working on Futurama: Highways and Horizons, an exhibit scheduled to open on April 30 in the General Motors Building at the 1939 World's Fair.
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I Have Seen the Future:
Norman Bel Geddes Designs America
Located on what once was a garbage dump in Flushing Meadows, Queens, the fair was advertised as "The World of Tomorrow." Avenues stretched out from the towering Trylon obelisk and 200-foot spherical Perisphere to seven themed zones, including the Transportation Zone. Inside the monumental General Motors Building designed by Albert Kahn, the products of the world's largest industrial enterprise were displayed: a streamlined diesel locomotive, Frigidaire appliances, Delco electronics, an Automobile Saloon featuring the new cars for 1939, including a Pontiac Deluxe Six "Ghost Car" fitted with a see-through body and a display destined to epitomize the fair's message, the Futurama. Presenting General Motor's vision of the American landscape in 1960, the Futurama was one of the most popular exhibits at the fair, attracting millions of visitors willing to stand hours in line during the two years the fair was open. Covering almost 36,000 square feet and costing seven million dollars, the Futurama was the largest scale model ever constructed. Moving chairs carried spectators on an eighteen-minute swooping, simulated airplane flight over the model while a narrator, his soothing voice broadcast through individual speakers installed in the chairs, extolled the wonders of a utopian tomorrow. "Come tour the future with General Motors," the disembodied voice whispered. "This magic Aladdin-like flight through time and space is Norman Bel Geddes' conception of the many wonders that may develop in the not-to-distant future." In a press release, Bel Geddes was described as, "the man behind the spectacle – visionary ideas charge through his brains, his mind works in bold brush strokes." Born Norman Melancton Geddes in 1893, in Aldrian, Michigan (Bel was added after he married the first of his four wives, Helen Belle Schneider), Bel Geddes spent a short time at the Art Institute of Chicago. After a successful career as a theatrical set, costume and lighting designer in Los Angeles and Winter 2013/2014
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New York, he discovered the relatively new field of industrial design. In 1927, he opened a studio in Rockefeller Center and was soon busy designing an amazing range of commercial products including automobiles, furniture, service stations, office interiors, window displays, appliances, radios, lamps and the "Skyscraper," a classy chromed metal cocktail shaker, cups and tray set that
epitomize the age of streamlining. The prolific designer also came up with fanciful designs that were never built, including a revolving sky-high restaurant, a floating airport and a nine-story seaplane he called "Airliner #4." Powered by twenty engines, and twice the size of a 747, the behemoth would accommodate more than 600 passengers in ocean linerlike comfort.
In 1937, Bel Geddes produced an advertising campaign for Shell Oil Company's new "motor-digestible" gasoline. Designed to showcase the wonders promised by the automobile and sell more gasoline, Bel Geddes created the "City of Tomorrow." Illustrating the ad was a model of a future city serviced by a network of extremely wide highways. When General Motors began to plan
Norman Bel Geddes, Motor Car No. 9 (without tail fin), ca. 1933 Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center.
Richard Garrison, GM Highways and Horizons building with obelisk, ca. 1939. Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
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Richard Garrison, Bel Geddes with Futurama Diorama, ca. 1939 Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center.
for the 1939 World’s Fair, the company was going to incorporate a Chevrolet assembly line, an idea that had been used six years earlier at the Century of Progress Exposition in Chicago. A natural salesman, Bel Geddes used his irresistible enthusiasm to convince General Motors that they should show a landscape where super highways would be the magic carpets conveying America into a utopian tomorrow. Dan Howland, editor of the Journal of Ride Theory, explains, "Up until the Futurama, manufacturers had exhibited at fairs to show how they made their products, and then the Futurama came along and said, Here is how the future will feel." Taking his earlier "City of Tomorrow" concept to an unprecedented magnitude, Bel Geddes designed and supervised the building of an animated miniature wonder land. A guide book provided by General Motors provided visitors with a preview. "As they travel on several levels of the building in their magic chairs, they view a continuous animated panorama of towns and cities, river and lakes, country
Combining talent, imagination and a knack for self promotion, Norman Bel Geddes helped play a major role in defining the esthetics of the world we live in today. His Futurama for the 1939/40 New York's World's Fair was one of the 20th century's most memorable and optimistic visions of a future America. Image courtesy of Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation.
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Futurama car. Photo by Pete Smith. Image courtesy the estate of Edith Lutyens Bel Geddes / Harry Ransom Center
and farm areas, industrial plants in operation, country clubs, forests, valleys and snowcapped mountains. The 'Futurama' contains approximately 500,000 individually designed houses; more than a million trees of eighteen species and 50,000 scale-model automobiles, of which 10,000 are in operation over super-highways, speed lanes and multi-decked bridges." When the fair closed, the majority of the structures, including the General Motors Building were demolished and the area was transformed into Flushing Meadows-Corona Park (twenty -five years later the park would host another world's fair). Bel Geddes attempted to convince General Motors to save the Futurama, but the company was not interested. One of his more flamboyant ideas would have had the display transported from city to city by dirigible, but ultimately the Futurama was destroyed and only photographs, videos and a few fragments capture the model's grandeur. Bel Geddes designing the Macy's Christmas Parade Punch and Judy float, 1926. Photograph by unidentified photographer. Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
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Introduced to celebrate Emerson's 25th anniversary in 1940, Norman Bel Geddes' design for the Patriot radio featured knobs embellished with stars. Available in red, white and blue, the radio's case was manufactured from Bakelite, an early plastic extremely popular with today's collectors. Image courtesy of Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
During World War II, Bel Geddes built numerous models of battlefield scenes for Life magazine and the government. After suffering a heart attack in 1946, he parted ways with his partners, but continued to work on theatrical and design projects for several clients, including IBM. Norman Bel Geddes died on May 8, 1958, in Manhattan. "Norman Bel Geddes," Donald Albrecht explains, "was a real, multi-talented person. A ferociously inventive and creative figure of and in himself. He mirrored the America we have seen in the 20th century. His vision of the future is the tomorrow land, not the darker future of other depictions of the future." I Have Seen the Future: Norman Bel Geddes Designs America will be at the Museum of the City of New York until February 10, 2014. If you would like more information, the museum can be reached at 212-534-1672 or www.mcny.org
Maurice Goldberg. Norman Bel Geddes's model of the Aerial Restaurant, ca. 1930 Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
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A Visit to Elgin Park
The Miniature World of Michael Paul Smith by Stuart Leuthner
Michael Paul Smith, a modern day Gulliver, surveys one of his miniature setups. Tired of simply seeing his collection of 300 die-cast cars collecting dust on shelves, Smith built a model gas station to provide them with an appropriate environment. Pleased with the result, he fabricated additional buildings, picked up his camera and Elgin Park was born. Combining Smith's craftsmanship, eye for detail and photographic skills, his imaginary all-American town, residing forever in the past, has become an Internet phenomenon. Photo:Michael Paul Smith.
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our years ago, a friend sent me a link to some photos that had recently appeared on the Internet. On first glance, I thought they were some nice vintage photographs of mid-century America. However, clicking through the photos I was surprised to come upon a smiling gentleman peering over a miniature setup on a card table. I realized I was looking at the work of a very talented artist and immediately forwarded the images on to everybody I knew. Michael Paul Smith recalls when he posted his first images. "I wasn't sure anybody would be interested, "he says, "but I had nothing to lose." For a year or so, they attracted a few thousand hits, but everything changed when a British sports car magazine published a feature on Smith. Almost immediately, the haunting images of an imaginary town and their creator became an Internet phenomenon with the number of hits catapulting to over twenty million by January, 2010. At one point, Smith was convinced something must have run amuck with his Flickr photostream. In March, 2010, the New York Times ran an article praising Smith's work. "Like photographs pulled from shoeboxes in dusty attics, the images form a parade of memories that, one by one, reveal the focal points and quiet corners of the small town of Elgin Park."
Another setup featuring one of Smith's wonderful model structures, complete with a classic detached garage. Carefully moving the card table and miniature scene in relationship to the real world background, Smith creates his magic. Photo:Michael Paul Smith.
A resident of Winchester, Massachusetts, Smith has a diversified work history; wallpaper hanger, house painter, illustrator, museum display designer, advertising art director and architectural model maker. "I've had a wide range of jobs," Smith says. "All of those experiences have come together to make it possible for me to produce my current work." "Sometimes all of the attention is overwhelming," Smith says. People are constantly telling him he must be the world's best model maker. "I'm a good model maker," the artist explains, "but
"It was very windy and cold when I photographed this setup," Smith recalls. "I almost froze my tail off." The handmade billboard announcing the new 1951 Pontiacs is made from styrene plastic, mat board and jewelry pieces, with a car illustration clipped from an old magazine. Photo: Michael Paul Smith.
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there are better modelers out there. I think what I've done is combine my skills, model making, photography and research with subject matter that resonates with viewers. Our past is a powerful draw. In so many ways we try to capture it in order to explain it to ourselves." Elgin Park can be attributed to two very different influences. First, Smith's home town of Sewickley, Pennsylvania, a suburb of Pittsburgh. "Elgin Park is not an exact re-creation of Sewickley," Smith says, 'but it does capture the mood of my memories." The other motivation was the artist's collection of 300 die-cast model cars – American automobiles dating from the 1920s to the mid 1960s. Like most collectors, Smith lined them up on shelves, dutifully dusting them once a week. "They were interesting," he says, "but all they did was sit there." Smith decided a model scene would provide a showcase for the model cars. His first effort was a gas station, "something universally connected with cars and trucks." Satisfied with the result, it inspired Smith to build more structures - now numbering fifteen. Smith does not use kits. "I draw up rough sketches for each building, but mostly it becomes a "little bit of this and a little bit of that." Adhering to the modeler's rule, "don't model what you can't see," many of Smith's buildings are simply facades. Setting up a scene, he will "mix and Winter 2013/2014
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Smith often invents a story to go along with a photograph. "Gino Monteverde owns Main Street Texaco and plows local retailers lots for free," the artist explains. "The merchants are more than happy to waive the bill for Gino's lunch or cup of coffee. Elgin Park is a good place to live." Photo: Michael Paul Smith.
The setup for Gino Monteverde's snowplow photograph. Smith dusts on baking soda to create the snow on the model. During the shoot, a number of school kids, mothers with children and a work crew stopped to watch Smith at work and asked a lot of questions, as evidenced by the number of foot prints in the "real" snow. Photo: Michael Paul Smith.
match; turn the buildings around or temporarily add to them so they have an altered appearance." Comparing photos of the setups with the finished product verges on the surreal. In the former, the model cars are parked in front of a building on Smith's trusty card table looking like something you might find at the local hobby shop. The magic happens when Smith integrates his setup into real world backgrounds. This is not as easy as it sounds. He has to find an unobstructed background that not only can pass for the 1940's or 1950's, but is large enough to be in scale with the model. There is no formula for Smith's photography. "Over the years I've been 64
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doing this," he explains, "I have developed a sense of how far I have to be away from the background to make it work. If the distance is incorrect, I drag the table back and forth with the diorama until it looks correct." Night scenes are photographed inside his apartment – lit by a single bulb, a few Christmas tree lights or LEDs. From the start, Smith made the decision to not use digital techniques to manipulate the photos. "Framing everything in the camera," he observes, "forces me to be observant and focused.� He does admit there was a bit of photoshopping when a proof sheet revealed a bug squatting on a car's fender.
Smith purposely does not include people in his images because "I want to leave the impression that somebody has just left or will arrive in a few minutes". His imaginary town has attracted a growing number of digital tourists. Theresa Thompson made her first appearance in Elgin Park in early 2009. Thompson grew up in Fort Wayne, Indiana and studied art and graphic design at the University of St. Francis. She operates her own photographic studio and is fascinated with digital manipulation. Thompson also collects vintage clothing and when she discovered Smith's work on the Internet, realized Elgin Park provided a unique opportunity to combine her two interests.
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Featuring a distinctive "flying wing" roof, "gullwing" fins and "cat's eye" taillights, people either love or hate the 1959 El Camino. "Personally," Smith says, "I can't thank Chevrolet enough for creating such a machine." In a testament to Smith's incredible attention to detail, look closely and you will see a miniature directory hanging in the phone booth. Photo: Michael Paul Smith.
Theresa Thompson's saddle shoes and rolled up jeans are right at home in Elgin Park. It was the combination of Thompson's collection of vintage clothing and fascination with digital photography that motivated her visits to Elgin Park. Photo: Theresa Thompson.
After being photographed in a 1950s outfit, Thompson digitally inserted herself into one of Smith's photographs. "I emailed it to Michael," Thompson says, “If he was unhappy with what I was doing, it wouldn't go any further. Not only did he tell me it was fine with him, I think he was genuinely flattered." Thompson's ongoing visits to Elgin Park where she is seen riding a vintage bicycle, shopping for a new Corvair and returning from the market with a bag of groceries has inspired others to join her. "Last year my husband and I were in California. We went to dinner with somebody I had
In addition to her digital skills, Theresa Thompson's attention to detail hat, gloves, pearls, sweater clips and glasses convinces us she belongs in Michael Paul Smith's imaginary town on this pleasant summer afternoon. Divco milk trucks were a familiar sight on residential streets in the 1950s. Bordon's smiling image of Elsie the Cow, first appearing during the 1930s, remains among the most recognized product logos in the United States. Photo: Theresa Thompson.
Theresa Thompson has turned this photography by Smith into film noir. Who, we wonder, is this mysterious woman? Where is she going? Why is she out so late? Is she meeting somebody? Somebody dangerous? Only Ms. Thompson knows the answers. Photo: Theresa Thompson.
previously only met on the Internet who has also been showing up in Elgin Park." Michael Paul Smith has done something few model makers achieve. The vast majority labor in anonymity, their work only seen by a few. Thanks to modern technology, millions have been able to visit Elgin Park. "Many people,” Smith observes, "have written that they feel a deeper story is going on in my work. It's not about the cars or the buildings per se, but of childhood, family, longing, happiness, love and sadness." A woman in England was obviously touched by Smith's work, so much so
that she contacted the artist and told him she was planning a trip to the States and wanted to visit Elgin Park. “I broke it to her gently," Smith says. Having never heard from her again, he believes, "I think I broke her heart." If you would like to see more of Michael Paul Smith's work please go to his web site at www.visitelginpark.com. Theresa Thompson's excursions to Elgin Park can be found at www.flickr.com/ photos/theresathompson/
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Heritage Timepiece Signature Auction
Lot 61261 -Audemars Piguet pink gold Royal Oak Offshore Quantieme Perpetuel Automatic, circa 1999. Sold for $62,500.
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n November 21, Heritage Auctions' recently expanded New York gallery hosted a Timepieces SignatureŠ Auction. Located at Park
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Avenue and 57th Street, the event attracted a crowd that filled the gallery and a fully-staffed phone bank assisted bidders who could not attend.
"The auction was overflowing with fantastic items for collectors and investors and we saw strong prices across the board," said James Wolf, Consignment
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Director for Watches and Timepieces at Heritage Auctions. "It was a success for both consigner and bidders: What more could you ask for?" An extremely fine Vacheron Constantin "skeletonized" pink gold wristwatch with two barrel one minute tourbillon and power reserve sold for $75,000 to lead the
$3.7 plus million realized by the auction. In addition to hand engraved rose gold skeletonized plates, the twenty-nine jewel movement includes twin barrels, lateral lever escapement with one minute tourbillon regulator, monometalic balance, shock absorber and self compensating Breguet balance spring.
Lot 60105 - Rolex Ref. 18946 platinum and diamond Masterpiece with meteorite dial, circa 2000. Sold for $37,500.
Exceptional examples by Audemars Piguet took nine of the first ten top lots. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Quantieme Perpetual Automatic, circa 1999, more than doubled its pre-auction estimate to end at $62,500. Crafted in18k pink gold, the watch is powered by a caliber 2226/2839 automatic movement fitted with fifty-four jewels, straight line lever escapement and monometallic balance adjusted for five positions. The checkerboard black dial is fitted with three subsidiary dials and a moon phase indication at three o'clock. This exceptional timepiece is secured to the wrist with a matching 18k pink gold band with double deployant clasp. Other standout Audemars Piguet watches included a rare and very fine rose gold Rubens Barrichello Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph that sold for $60,937, a limited edition rose gold Juan Pablo Montoya Royal Oak Offshore, No. 314/500, brought $56,250, and a Jules Audemars Quantieme Perpetual Metropolis Platinum World Time more than doubled its estimate to bring $27,500. Although Audemars Piguet was capturing the majority of the top lot honors, Heritage's special presentation of "Timepieces from a Distinguished Gentleman," an important collection of 360 first quality wristwatches, including 200 Rolex rarities, stole the show and sold for a combined $1.4 plus million. A gold Oyster Cosmograph circa 1882, led the way at $48,432 and a sparkling Rolex Ref. 18946 Platinum and Diamond Masterpiece with Meteorite Dial circa 2000, brought $37,500. Made for the British Royal Navy, a very rare Rolex Ref. 5513 Oyster Perpetual Submariner, circa 1974, sold for $35,000. In addition to strap bars soldered in place to ensure the watch could only be fitted with a non-reflective cloth strap, the dial is marked with an encircled "T" to indicate the use of tritium and fitted with a special calibrated dial. A hacking feature allows for precise synchronization of time. Additional highlights included several timepieces by Patek Philippe & Co. A very fine Ref. 2510 gent's gold wristwatch, circa Winter 2013/2014
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Lot 61238 - Vacheron Constantin skeletonized twin barrel one minute tourbillon with power reserve, circa 1994.Sold for $75.000.
Lot 60199 - Rolex Ref. 6263 18k gold Oyster Cosmograph, circa 1982. Sold for $48, 437.
1953, sold for $21,250. Powered by a caliber 12-400 movement housed in a 35.5 mm yellow gold case, the classic silver dial displays the seconds on a subsidiary dial at six o'clock. Another watch by Patek Philippe 68
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& Co., a very fine yellow gold Annual Calendar wristwatch, circa 1999, brought $20,000 plus. Three subsidiary dials display twenty-four hours, days and months, with the date aperture at six o'clock.
On May 22, 2014 experience the 2014 Spring Fine Timepieces auction at Heritage's newly expanded New York location, 445 Park Avenue (at 57th Street).
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The World of Yesteryear Returns at
The Annual Goodwood Revival Article and photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor
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nce a year hundreds of thousands of fans make their way to the annual Goodwood Revival in Goodwood, England. The event is the largest of its kind in the world and there is no doubt, once you have been there, and witness the throngs of people, that you will agree. It is held during the second weekend of September each year and it carries the weight of many other events put together. Trying to book a hotel room nearby is almost impossible unless you are fortunate enough to start almost a year in advance. Hotels and bed and breakfast locations are filled for miles around. And the advance tickets for the event are basically sold out months in advance. This is a unique event indeed. The track itself was a famous, and very dangerous, circuit between the years of 1948 and 1966. It was the venue where Sir Stirling Moss nearly lost his life in 1962 when a horrific crash left him in a coma for a month. It was the site of many Formula One races and sports car and touring car races annually. It had been closed since 1966 until Lord March, himself a race buff, decided to make a special event for three days calling it The Goodwood Revival. Lord March is
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actually, Charles Gordon-Lennox, Earl of March and Kinrara. He manages the family seat, Goodwood Estate, for his father. March created two special events at the family estate. The Festival of Speed, first held in 1993, is a hill climb exhibition and in 1998 came The Revival, both as annual events. He is also the president of
the prestigious BARC (British Automobile Racing Club). The track remains the same configuration it was back in its heyday, a 2.3 mile seven corner course. And, both cars and motorcycles are raced during this weekend on this the original track. The real fun of attending this race has to be seeing the people and their garb.
Your editor standing next to a circa 1920’s Bentley in my period outfit, in the main parking area, ready to capture the best Goodwood had to offer.
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Everyone, including little tykes, dress in period costumes from the 1940’s through the early 1960’s. No matter where you walk you see the most fantastic outfits. They are creative and imaginative and decorative. And the sheer volume of fans is astounding. Never in my life have I witnessed so many people attending a single event. As an example, on Friday, the first day, there were well over 100,000 in attendance. And Saturday there were double that or triple that number. To give an example of the foot traffic: there are several tunnels that lead from the outside of the track to the inside areas. The width of these tunnels is only wide enough for two people walking in each direction. The flow of foot traffic is close to a crawl as so many people try to get from one end of the tunnels to the other. On Sunday, the population swelled even more, but the famous rains of England came a-calling and caused many to go back home long before the day was over. This is a three day event, with a number of races held each day. Each race has a name assigned to it. There are 15 races which the organizers call their centerpiece. In addition there are two track parades that celebrate a particular car and a driver each year. This year we
saw the life of the late great Jim Clark; two-time Formula One Champion who was tragically killed in a Formula 2 event in the rain at Hochenheim, Germany in 1968. Jim was a Scottish farmer who proved his skills driving other people’s race cars faster than they could. He quickly rose up the ladder to the ranks of Formula One where he starred as the main driver for team Lotus and owner Colin Chapman. He even won the Indy 500 in the first year of the rear engine cars. The other track parade celebrated the short but incredibly successful career of the Ford GT 40 race car, now 50 years old. Not only was there a demonstration and parade but an entire race was run with one of the largest gatherings of this classic car ever assembled. Briefly, Ford Motor Company decided that putting their efforts forward, they could create a race car that would beat the all dominant Ferrari in sports car and endurance races. So, in 1964 a prototype was developed and within the next three years, the mighty Ford GT 40 beat the Ferraris at their own game repeatedly throughout the world. The year 1969 saw the final year of this great racer but the real culmination came in 1966 when it began four-year domination in sports car racing beating everyone in
The entry signage at the center of the entrance to the track before one enters the tunnel to go inside the track itself.
sight including the mighty Ferraris. Ford wanted to buy Ferrari and came very close to it until Enzo Ferrari killed the deal himself. This year Goodwood showcased 27 race cars from that time period and the fans loved the sounds of the big bore American V8 engines roaring around
One of several very narrow tunnels that allow foot traffic to flow in and out of the track. Note that there is only room for two abreast in each direction and the tunnels are packed solid with fans.
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This stunning 1963 Ferrari GTO duels with another Ferrari and the ’64 GTO LM and a 1963 Ferrari 250 GT0/64 and a lone ’62 AC Cobra.
this circuit at speed during the featured Whitsun Trophy Race. Getting around this circuit as a member of the press is not as easy as one may think. Outside turn vs. inside turn. Tunnels, etc. For instance, each time you want to go to an outside turn, you have
to sign up to share a limited number of special armbands that are restricted to specific time slot assignments. When and if the person before you returns with your number, you are then able to go where you wish, but only for a short period of time; as in a race or two or a
Two WWII British Aircraft planes putting on a show between road races. A selection of old planes took to the air between all the racing.
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maximum of two hours. Then, you have to make your way back through all the people to return the armband. You will then need to generally exit the interior of the circuit to get to certain far points and then reenter via a tunnel again and fight the foot traffic until you arrive at your desired destination. The governing body for this event has determined that only 50 photo armbands can be assigned at any one time. They feel that the safety of the photographers may be at risk if they allow all of the press full access at the same time. So you sign up early for those races that you want to cover and then hope, as I said before, that the person with your number arrives within enough time for you to get to your station. A lot more complicated than it sounds. All members of the press are required to wear the assigned paper armbands that are held on by a shoe lace – just the way it used to be at the time. Remember, this is a retro event. Goodwood calls it a magical step back in time. The safety of the photographers is the only modern aspect I saw.
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Constructed of steel and aluminum over a wood framework, this McQuay-Norris Streamliner was one of six built in 1933/1934 to promote the company's line of automobile replacement parts. Drivers have to be extremely careful when backing up since visibility is excellent except to the rear
A 1960 Corvette, a 1955 Austin Healey 100 Coupe, a 1957 Aston Martin DB2/4MKIII and a 1955 Morgan Plus Four all roar down the back straight during the Fordwater Trophy race. Note the throngs of people attending.
Another great aspect of this weekend is perusing the vendor area. There were dozens of vendor stands each in their own enclosed tents or makeshift buildings. They sell everything from period clothing to wonderful lambswool blankets to books and include a wide variety of interesting collectibles. Hats were a huge seller as were walking sticks and gloves. Strolling aisle after aisle allowed me to meet many locals who were thrilled to hear that I hailed from New York. Repeatedly I heard the same comment in their wonderful British accents. “Oh, New York hey, we luv that city.� I met some interesting folks with whom I spent some of my hard earned money as well. But it was a wonderful experience talking to them and seeing such a huge collection of period items all in one area. The cars are for sure the main interest of this event; however, the period airplanes are also a big part of this weekend at Goodwood. One of the highlights was the tribute paid to the period of 70 years following the Dambusters Raid. This was
Two men hamming it up for the camera in period military attire.
an attack on the German dams carried out on May 16-17, 1943 by the Royal Air Force No. 617 Squadron. And the newly enlarged Freddy March Spirit of Aviation played host to a superb number of aircraft. Between each race, there was a flyover of a famous aircraft or two ranging from a 1913 Avro Tri-plane to a 1934 Boeing Stearman to a number of aircraft used during WWII, and included trainers like the 1944 North American Harvard SNJ5, and even some aircraft as modern as the 1960 PiperPA-22 Caribbean and the 1962 Stits SA-3A Playboy. The pilots flew around the circuit doing loops and flips, soaring high then coming very low to the ground while everyone was staring at the sky during the intermissions between the car and bike races. It added that extra spark of excitement to an already filled weekend of non-stop action. The rains that came on Sunday were hard at times in the afternoon, but the cars and drivers withstood the test and raced in the wet. Although many fans left early at this point, enough remained to Winter 2013/2014
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The 1962 Lotus-Climax 25 F1 car and the 1962 Lotus-Climax MK4 car do battle in the front straight in hard rain. Note the huge rooster tails from the cars speeding on the wet roadway.
A family with close friends dressing the part and having a great time. Note the Goodwood directional signs in the background.
The World of Yesteryear Returns at
The Annual Goodwood Revival 74
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When the rains came, they came hard during the two hour endure Sunday. Here the 1963 Cobra fights off the 1961 Aston Martin Project 212 in heavy rain.
This was the way they used to perform the pit stops. Ties and coats for the press and all whites for the pit crews. Here a Ferrari 250 GT SWB/B/C from 1960 and a 1963 AC Cobra coupe get attended to by their crews in the 2hr. enduro on Sunday called the Royal Automobile Club TT celebration race.
still fill the grounds and the few seats in the covered grandstands. As I was leaving late in the day the Formula One race was on and I had the opportunity to stand on the roof above the paddock looking down as the cars came into the final turn and roared past leaving huge sprays of dispersed water better known as, “Rooster Tails�. The teams were all dressed in their period uniforms and the communication from pit crew to driver was via the old pit
boards with removable letters telling the driver where he stood in his race. This is one of those bucket list events that anyone who loves old cars needs to attend. Be prepared for more people than you might have ever thought possible walking alongside you, in front of and behind you. And be ready to observe some of the most clever and wonderful outfits and fabulous cars. This, unlike our vintage racing in America today, is all-out racing.
No pussyfooting around the track. These racers run full throttle with little regard to what might happen if something goes wrong. And it does. Even some of the great drivers of yesteryear and today raced here this weekend and got into some trouble in the rain. Goodwood is a place that is indeed magical. It will put a huge smile on your face making you feel as though you have really stepped back in time. Winter 2013/2014
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Auction News Sotheby’
Patek Philippe A Platinum Automatic World Time Wristwatch Circa 2008 – LOT 10
Sold For: $37,500
Audemars Piguet A Fine and Rare Yellow Gold, Platinum, and DiamondSet Skeletonized Open-Faced Watch Circa 1975 – LOT 20
Sold For: $37,500
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York
ROLEX A Yellow Gold Skeletonized Chronograph Wristwatch Circa 1995 – LOT 13
Sold For: $22,500
Van Cleef & Arpels A Fine and Rare Rock Crystal, Yellow Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Set Desk Timepiece of Chinoiserie Motif Circa 1957 – LOT 36
Sold For: $37,500
photos courtesy: SOTHEBY's
1/14/14 12:43 PM
Auction News Sotheby’
Marcus & Co. / Mathey-Tissot A Fine and Rare Yellow Gold, Champleve Enamel and Jade Minute Repeating Desk Timepiece Circa 1925 – LOT 38
Sold For: $52,500
York
A. Lange & Söhne A Rare and Important Pink Gold Open-Faced Double Chronograph Watch with Register Circa 1900 – LOT 58
Sold For: $65,000
Patek Philippe
Charles Frodsham & Co.
An Important and Rare Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeating Open-Faced Watch with Moon-Phases. Made in 1913 – LOT 67
A Previously Unknown Yellow Gold Open-Faced Minute Repeating Split Seconds Chronograph Watch with One Minute Tourbillon and 60 Minute Register, made in 1917 – LOT 68
Sold For: $137,000 photos courtesy: SOTHEBY's
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Sold For: $203,000
Winter 2013/2014
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Auction News Christie's Dec
Patek Philippe A Fine and Very Rare 18k Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Tachometer Scale Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, Ref. 2499, Movement No. 868'748, Case No. 2'611'726, Manufactured in 1960. – LOT 60
Sold For: $725,000
Rolex An Extremely Rare and Fine Stainless Steel and Diamond-Set Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases Signed Rolex, Perpetual, Precision, Ref. 8171, Case No. 902'514, Circa 1953. – LOT 186
Sold For: $1,145,000
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photos courtesy: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2013
1/14/14 12:43 PM
Auction News Christie's Dec
Chanel A Rare 18k White Gold and Ceramic Limited Edition Automatic Wristwatch Set with Diamonds and Rubies Signed Chanel, Paris, J12 Editions Exclusives Model, Reference H2038, No. 04/05, Case No. I.H.99334, Circa 2008 – LOT 133
Sold For: $293,000
John Bennett A Very Rare and Exceptional 18k Gold Hunter Case Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Clock Watch with Grande and Petite Sonnerie and Moon Phases Signed Sir John Bennett, Ltd, Makers to the Late Queen Victoria, 65 – LOT 262
Sold For: $269,000
photos courtesy: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2013
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Museum Watch CALDER AND ABSTRACTION Los Angeles County Museum of Art through July 27 This presentation of revolutionary sculptor Alexander Calder's work demonstrates the kinetic nature of his constructions and explores how he translated “French Surrealist vocabulary into American vernacular."
PETER MAX Nassau County Museum of Art, NY through February 23 Contrasting Max's rarely shown black-andwhite drawings with his larger, colorful works, this exhibition represents the first-ever solo museum show in New York of one of the most recognizable artists of our time.
The AGE of IMPRESSIONISM: GREAT FRENCH PAINTINGS Museum of Fine Arts, Houston through March 23 Showcasing the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute's renowned holdings of 19th century French painting, this exhibition features 70 works by artists like Degas, Manet, Monet, Pissarro, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Renoir.
Museum of Fine Arts, Houston: Edgar Degas, Dancers in the Classroom, c. 1880, oil on canvas, Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts; image © Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, MA
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Installation photograph: Calder and Abstraction: From Avant-Garde to Iconic; Los Angeles County Museum of Art; © Calder Foundation, New York, ARS, NY; photo © Fredik Nilsen
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HOPPER DRAWING: A PAINTER's PRogress Dallas Museum of Art through February 16 The first major museum exhibition to focus on the drawings and overall creative process of Edward Hopper, this exhibition of over 2500 drawings also includes many of his great oil paintings paired with their preparatory sketches.
MoDERN NATURE: GEORGIA O'KEEFFE AND LAKE GEORGE de Young Museum, San Francisco February 15 - May 11 This collection of more than fifty paintings, sketches, and pastels examines the extraordinary body of work created by O'Keeffe from 1918 through the early 1930s at Lake George, New York, where she lived at the family property of Alfred Stieglitz.
ISA GENZKEN: RETROSPECTIVE Museum of Modern Art, New York through March 10 This first major U.S. retrospective of the artist's work spans her 40 years of influential artwork about modernity and urban architecture, bringing together more than 150 art objects in a variety of media. MoMA: Isa Genzken. Fuck the Bauhaus #4, 2000. Plywood, Plexiglas, plastic slinky, clipboards, aluminum light shade, flower petals, tape, printed paper, shells, and model tree. 88 3/16" x 30 5/16" x 24". Private Collection, Turin. Courtesy AC Project Room, New York. © Isa Genzken
Damage Control: Art and Destruction since 1950 Hirshhorn Museum, Washington D.C. through May 26 Featuring 90 works by more than 40 international artists, this wide-ranging show presents the myriad ways in which artists have considered and invoked destruction in their creative process.
GARRY WINOGRAND National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. March 2 - June 8 Winogrand, considered by some to be the photographer of his generation, captured moments of everyday American life in the postwar years. This exhibition includes well-known highlights from his career as well as over 100 photographs printed and displayed for the first time. National Gallery of Art: Garry Winogrand, Coney Island, New York, c. 1952, gelatin silver print, framed: 16x20 in. The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Purchase and gift of Barbara Schwartz in memory of Eugene M. Schwartz. © The Estate of Garry Winogrand, digital image © The Museum of Modern Art/ Licensed by SCALA / Art Resource, NY
Winter 2013/2014
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The Quail
A Motorsports Gathering 2013 Article and Photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor
The show field from one of many angles.
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The Quail is a major event in The Week of the Car on the Monterey Peninsula. The idea is to celebrate the automobile and the motorcycle in an intimate fashion, fostering a friendly atmosphere amongst owners and collectors.
P
icture this: a lush, green, freshly trimmed golf course. You look to both sides and your view is the mountains that surround the Carmel Valley in California. You are on one of the fairways of the Quail Lodge, a prestigious hostelry in the valley. It is filled with wonderful cars both new and old, platforms with cars and models, advertising for cars, people, tents, and seating venues for a selection of foods including local fruits and vegetables, coffee, wine, beer, water, vodka and just about anything else consumable. And, oh yes, don’t forget the jewelry and clothing. Welcome to a huge lawn party that includes you as one of the special people. Limited to 3000 attendees only, this lawn party is one that makes you feel welcome while all of the activity is going on around you. You park across the golf cart path from the main event. This other fairway is reserved for parking only. This entire parking field is covered with cars worth a look. So many special vehicles are parked side by side and one is nicer than the next. The attendees know cars, and arrive in their finest. You might think this could constitute its own show, but the real show takes place across the path and what a show it is. The Quail is a major event in The Week of the Car on the Monterey Peninsula. The idea is to celebrate the automobile and the motorcycle in an intimate fashion, fostering a friendly atmosphere amongst owners and collectors. And it serves a number of charities including the California Highway Patrol 11-99 Foundation, Rancho Cielo and the Naval Postgraduate School Foundation as well as the Peninsula in Pink, the Penninsula Hotel’s breast cancer awareness campaign. Winter 2013/2014
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For me, one of the most beautiful sports race cars ever produced. The 2002 Bentley Speed 8. The same car came back to win the 24 hours of LeMans in 2003. Bentley used it as part of their exhibit this year here.
Each year certain marques are picked to be featured and this year the 100th year of the Aston Martin and the 50 years of Automobili Lamborghini were celebrated. Special tributes were made to the California Mille and Martin Swig, one of its creators, and to the outstanding automotive designs of Peter Brock. The cars are divided into groups throughout the fairway. The groups include: the circle known as The Great Ferraris, Pre-War and Post War Sports Cars and Racing Cars, Super Cars, Sports and Racing Motorcycles and the circles with The 100 Years of Aston Martin and the retrospective of Lamborghini. Wherever you walk in the interior there are cars and motorcycles. 84
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Each year, there is a Fireside Chat including several famous car people and this year was no exception. The founder of this wonderful event, Honorable Sir Michael Kadoorie, acted as one of the interviewers along with renowned automotive driver and commentator, Alain De Cadenet. The head of the FIA, Federation International de Automobile, Jean Todt was another of the special interviewers. The man in the hot seat fielding all the questions was none other than seven-time World F1 Champion, Michael Schumacher. The crowds migrated to the stage as soon as the questions began, as rows of people clambered to get a peek at the great champ. In all the years of attending this event, I have
never seen so many gathered to listen so intently. The interviewers told of their experiences with cars, car manufacturers and racing. And then it was time to hear “Shumi” recount many of his racing tales. What fascinating stories they all shared! But a party is not a party without food. And this year’s event spread its wings and added yet two more pavilions to the previous year’s four. Representative cuisines from Hong Kong, Argentina, Italy, France, Morocco and the Carmel Valley were present with their wide variety of flavors to savor. The local vintner Louis Roederer made sure a large selection of wines and champagne were available to sample at each pavilion. Also
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Ed Welburn, General Motors Vice President of Global Design with Comedian Jay Leno enters the show field in a brand new 2014 Corvette convertible as they lead a group of Corvette racers from the race track to The Quail for the crowd to enjoy for a couple of hours.
available to all were the custom made bottles of water with The Quail insignia imprinted on the inside. No one but no one could possibly leave this event hungry. It is a great gastronomic event. Rolex is the prime sponsor of the event and kudos to them for yet another amazing performance. Their contribution to the entire week has become legendary in its breadth and stature. It might be hard to imagine any of the three major events during this huge week (Pebble Beach, The Quail and Rolex Motorsports Reunion) without the Rolex sponsorship. They have made these three events world famous and world class in every way. The selection of cars and bikes at The Quail are made very
carefully. This event occurs just two days before the great PBC. Since the rules for the Pebble Beach Concours state that no car can be shown for the first time at any other event before Pebble Beach, the cars and bikes at The Quail are very special indeed. They are as lovely and as well preserved as any vehicle you will find any place in the world. Many have been shown before and some are first timers here. Nonetheless, every single car is stunning and represents its maker very well. The event is laid out in a normal, easy to walkabout manner. The vendors are all located along both sides of the lawn and interspersed with such things as a tent for photography, an area with specialty
retailers selling fine leather jackets, jewelry specialists, cigar aficionados and purveyors of car related items. It is not uncommon to see people seated beneath sun umbrellas while sitting in lawn chairs or park benches that are situated all over the grounds. The cars are generally in large circles or clusters except when they are near the sand traps. In the center of the fairway is the Rolex Circle of Champions. These special examples are the class winners and have already received the coveted Quail Trophy, allowing them into this prestigious circle for all to see. The judging at this event is very different than most other concours. Winners in each class are determined with a consideration as to their design features, natural Winter 2013/2014
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Fans inspect the Ferrari F1 car which Shumi drove his final year and to his 7th overall World Championship‌ more than anyone else in history.
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Seven time Formula One World Champion, Michael Schumacher (center) is in the hot seat for the Fireside Chat session and being interviewed by Alain de Cadenet, (on right) himself an accomplished ex racer and journalist. This interview drew an enormous crowd.
beauty, finishes, upholstery and their historical significance. The entrants themselves select the winning cars in their respective classes, as well as Best of Show. And speaking of BOS, this year a Peter 86
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Brock designed Daytona Cobra Coupe from 1964 took top honors. The car is owned by The Larry H. Miller family. Going to The Quail usually means that you are fortunate
enough to be one of the lucky ones to attend an event that deserves your time and your money. An event that is sure to continue growing in importance in the automotive world.
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130927 Chronos Nov Dec Cocktail ad 8.38x10.88in.pdf 1 01.10.2013 17:13:17
Ernest Borel Swiss Made since 1856
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ERNEST BOREL +1 877 566 1824 www.ernestborel.ch usa@ernestborel.ch
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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES
The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry. The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild. Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value. Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.
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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES ALABAMA
Connecticut
Illinois
Minnesota
Mountain Brook
Glastonbury
Addison
Edina
Barton-Clay Jewelers Arizona
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Santa Cruz Dell Williams, Inc.
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Lux Bond & Green
Greenwich Lux Bond & Green Manfredi Jewelers, Ltd.
Hartford Armstrong Rockwell Lux Bond & Green
New Haven Savitt Jewelers
South Windsor Lux Bond & Green
Uncasville Lux Bond & Green
West Hartford Lux Bond & Green
Westport Lux Bond & Green District of Columbia
Washington, DC Tiny Jewel Box Florida
Aventura King Jewelers
Belleair Bluffs Harold Freeman Jewelers
Coconut Grove H & H Jewels
Fort Lauderdale Levinson Jewelers
Palm Beach Hamilton Jewelers
Palm Beach Gardens Hamilton Jewelers St. Petersburg Hess Fine Art
Tampa Avant Gold Jewelers
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Razny Jewelers
Chicago Geneva Seal Marshall Pierce & Co.
Oak Brook C. D. Peacock Indiana
Ft. Wayne Bradley Gough Diamonds
Indianapolis Reis-Nichols Iowa
Sioux City Gunderson’s Jewelers Louisiana
Baton Rouge Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Massachusetts
Andover Royal Jewelers
Boston Lux Bond & Green Shreve, Crump & Low
Chestnut Hill David & Co.
Framingham Barmakian Jewelers
Peabody De Scenza Diamonds
Stoneham The Watchmaker
Wellesley Lux Bond & Green Michigan
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Scheherazade
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St. Louis Park Continental Diamond Mississippi
Ridgeland Sollberger Watches, Clocks & Jewelry Missouri
Clayton Simons Jewelers
Kansas City Meierotto’s Jewelry Nebraska
Omaha Borsheim’s Gunderson's Jewelers Nevada
Las Vegas Ca’d’Oro Horologio Hyde Park Las Vegas New Hampshire
Nashua Barmakian Jewelers New Jersey
Cliffside Park D’Amore Jewelers
Cranford Martin Jewelers
Jersey City Diamond Hut Jewelers
Lawrenceville Hamilton Jewelers
Livingston George Press Fine Jewelers
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Winter 2013/2014
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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES New jersey
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South Carolina
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Princeton
Charlotte
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Geiss & Sons South Dakota
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John Bull, Nassau Quantum Duty Free, Nassau
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1/13/14 11:04 PM
bsw14_
Brillian ce mee ts
s,
march 27 – april 3, 2014
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watch collector Officine Panerai Paneristi Every year for the past 12 years, lovers of all things Panerai meet for a weekend of festivities, culminating in a gala dinner. This year, 200 Paneristis attended the 12th annual event, held in Montreal, Canada. To mark the occasion, Panerai created a special watch in a limited edition of 500 pieces. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days bears the inscription “Paneristi Forever” on the caseback. It contains the PAM caliber P.3000. Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com
A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst The Handwerkskunst has a dial and movement that are elaborately engraved using the free hand technique. The dial is made of solid white gold and decorated with a combination of tremblage and relief engraving techniques. The blue numerals of the date display are hand painted. It combines two complications: a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, and contains the Lange manufacture self-winding caliber L082.1, decorated and assembled by hand. A. Lange & Söhne 800-408-8147 www.alange-soehne.com
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watch collector Patek Philippe 7200 Calatrava The 7200 is the brand’s latest Calatrava: the brand’s classic flagship collection, characterized by minimalist Bauhaus design, dependability, and meticulous finish. It has a rounded Officer’s style case – a specialty of Patek – with signature straight lugs and screwed strap bars. It has a rose gold case containing the self-winding caliber 240, with a 22k gold micro-rotor that is fully recessed into the plate. The movement has a patented Spiromax hairspring made of Silinvar and a Gyromax balance, ensuring an accuracy rating of -3 to +2 seconds per day. Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com
A
udemars Piguet RO Chronograph Gold The Royal Oak Chronograph, new in pink gold, contains the selfwinding caliber 2385 with a 40-hour power reserve and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz). The signature grande tapisserie dial in black is contrasted with the pink gold case and integrated bracelet. The rotor is 18k gold, and the iconic eight screws are 18k white gold, giving the watch an element of subtlety. It has a small seconds dial and a date window in addition to chronograph totalizers. It is water resistant to 50 meters Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com
Winter 2013/2014
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watch collector Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel This watch is the latest in a series of champlevé enamel dials in its Master Grand Tourbillon collection. It depicts cranes on the dial, which are an ancient symbol of longevity. The champlevé (raised field) technique is a process in which the area to be decorated is hollowed out with a burin, leaving areas in which the enamel will form a motif. The depth and intensity of colors in champlevé enamel are second to none, creating an almost three-dimensional look. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage This entirely hand-finished model is available in a 10-piece limited edition, and includes three major horological innovations: a patented gravity control system, a fusée and chain transmission mechanism, and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. The caseback shown here, depicts the many adventures of Christopher Columbus, the famous navigator, including a depiction of his vessel, the Santa Maria. Finishes include engraving and champlevé enamel. Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com 96
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watch collector F.P. Journe Historical Tourbillon This special anniversary edition commemorates the watchmaker’s first pocket watch, completed in 1983, reinterpreting it as a wristwatch. It also celebrates the tenth anniversary of the first F.P. Journe boutique. Like the original, the case is made of guilloché silver, enhanced by two gold bezels in rose gold. The covered caseback opens to reveal the caliber 1412 tourbillon movement, made of grained and gilded brass. The caseback is decorated in a guilloché pattern. This timepiece is a limited edition of 99 pieces. F.P. Journe 305-572-9802 www.fpjourne.com
H
ublot
Shawn ‘Jay Z’
Carter watch
The 18k yellow gold Shawn Carter watch by Hublot represents a collaboration between Hublot and the musician, who has frequently referenced the brand in his song lyrics. The open starburst emblem on the dial is the official logo of the collection, which is part of the watchmaker’s Classic Fusion line. The watch is also available in a black ceramic version and contains caliber HUB1300 hand-winding skeleton movement. Twenty-five percent of sales will benefit the Shawn Carter Scholarship Foundation. Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com Winter 2013/2014
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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Please mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. BASEL WORLD BASEL FAIR www.baselworld.com BELL & ROSS 605 Lincoln Road, Ste. 300 Miami Beach, FL 33139 Tel: 786-454-9730 Tel: 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com CHANEL 15 East 57th St. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-715-4100 www.chanel.com DAVID OSCARSON Tel: 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com JACOB & CO. Tel: 877-70-JACOB Tel: 212-719-5887 www.jacobandco.com JAEGER-LeCOULTRE 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
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LOUIS VUITTON 19 East 57th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 866-Vuitton www.louisvuitton.com
ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com
MAURICE LACROIX 103 Carnegie Center, Ste. 300 Princeton, NJ 08540 Tel: 609-375-2293 www.MauriceLacroix.com
88 RUE DU RHONE 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-737-8882 www.88rdr.com
MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com
SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com
MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 800-284-9487 Tel: 213-741-0808 www.specialopswatch.com PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com RAYMOND WEIL 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-355-3350 www.raymond-weil.com
TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com VACHERON CONSTANTIN Tel: 877-862-7555 Tel: 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com
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Chronos 2014 Issue 106 Chronos Chronos 2014 2014 Issue Issue 106 106
LeagasDelaney.de LeagasDelaney.de
ZEITMEISTER ZEITMEISTER ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR AVIATOR AVIATOR Ceramic Ceramic Ceramic chronograph, chronograph, chronograph, 44mm 44mm 44mm Matte Matte Matte black black black ceramic ceramic ceramic case, case, case, automatic automatic automatic movement movement movement officially officially officially certified certified certified to German to toGerman German DINDIN DIN standard. standard. standard.
9933News.indd 9933 chronos chronos 106 zeitavia_01.indd 1 11 9933 chronos 106zeitavia_01.indd zeitavia_01.indd 03_15 3 106
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T:10.875”
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Another Another AnotherTriumph Triumph Triumphinin in German German GermanEngineering! Engineering! Engineering!
T:10.875” B:11.125” T:10.875”
LeagasDelaney.de
(9933) (9933) (9933)
T:8.375” T:8.375” T:8.375”
For tHe Curious, tHe ColleCtor AND tHe CoNNoisseur
Winter Winter 2013/2014 2013/2014
April April April 1819. 1819. 1819. François François François Constantin Constantin Constantin takes takes takes responsibility responsibility responsibility for for for the the the worldwide worldwide worldwide business business businessexpansion expansion expansionof of ofVacheron Vacheron VacheronConstantin. Constantin. Constantin. During During Duringaaabusiness business businesstrip trip tripto to toItaly, Italy, Italy, this this this visionary visionary visionary man man man coined coined coined the the the phrase phrase phrase which which which would would would become become become the the the company company company motto motto mottoin in inaaaletter letter letteraddressed addressed addressedto to tothe the themanufacture: manufacture: manufacture:«««…do …do …dobetter better betterififif possible, possible, possible,and and andthat that that isisisalways always alwayspossible possible possible…». …». …».
True True True to to to this this this motto motto motto and and and to to to the the the spirit spirit spirit that that that forged forged forged its its its history, history, history, Vacheron Vacheron Vacheron Constantin Constantin Constantin still still still remains remains remains committed committed committed to to to pushing pushing pushing the the the boundaries boundaries boundaries of of of watchmaking watchmaking watchmaking in in in order order order to to to provide provide provide its its its clients clients clientswith with withthe the thehighest highest higheststandards standards standardsof of of technology, technology, technology,aesthetics aesthetics aesthetics and and andfi fi finish. nish. nish.
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Patrimony Patrimony PatrimonyTraditionnelle Traditionnelle Traditionnelle14-day 14-day 14-dayTourbillon Tourbillon TourbillonCalibre Calibre Calibre2260 2260 2260 18K 18K 18K5N 5N 5Npink pink pinkgold gold gold,,,Silvered Silvered Silveredopaline opaline opalinedial, dial, dial, Hallmark Hallmark Hallmarkofofof Geneva, Geneva, Geneva,Hand-wound Hand-wound Hand-woundmechanical mechanical mechanicalmovement, movement, movement, Tourbillon, Tourbillon, Tourbillon,ØØØ42 42 42mm mm mm Réf. Réf. Réf.89000/000R-9655 89000/000R-9655 89000/000R-9655
$6.95 $6.95
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Norman Norman Bel Bel Geddes Geddes National National Gallery Gallery of of Art Art––DC DC Winners Winners of of the the Grand Grand Prix Prix d’Horlogerie d’Horlogerie de de Genéve Genéve
Chopard Chopard mille mille miglia miglia Zagato Zagato Chronograph Chronograph
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