Eating Out RESTAURANT REVIEW
True blue
After more than a decade, traditional Italian cuisine still shines at Vaso Azzurro by Monica Hayde Schreiber
Shawn Fender
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Vaso Azzurro executive chef Hasan Yildiz presents the shrimp scampi plate.
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t has been more than a decade since Vaso Azzurro opened at the mouth of Mountain View’s Castro Street, on the train-station end of the river of restaurants that flows from El Camino Real. Fauxrustic sponged walls and cheesy mandolin music plunking out of the speakers give this upscale Italian establishment a quaint, slightly dated feel. But really, there’s nothing passé about traditional Italian cuisine served by a solicitous wait staff in a lovely, but no-fuss ambiance. Eleven years down the road, Vaso Azzurro remains a relevant — and delizioso — part of the Castro Street culinary scene. Although the restaurant’s tagline on its website and menus — “fine
Italian and Provençal cuisine” — would suggest an equal share of Southern Gallic fare, Vaso Azzurro (“blue vase” in Italian) tilts almost completely to Italy. The menu is structured around traditional and familiar dishes: pollo saltimbocca, scampi gamberi, salmone stromboli, gnocchi and risotto. There are also longtime house specialties such as the fettuccine azzurro ($15.25 lunch; $16.95 dinner) a savory tangle of extrawide fettuccine, firm to the teeth and sautéed with black mussels, rock shrimp, scallops and garlic in a chardonnay and saffron sauce. With a crisp Montresor Valdadige Pinot Grigio ($8 glass; $30 bottle) (continued on next page)
Spaghetti al Cartoccio s LB SPAGHETTI s 4BLS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL s CLOVES OF GARLIC s SMALL BUNCH PARSLEY s "ASIL LEAVES s MEDIUM SHRIMP PEELED AND DEVEINED s LB CLAMS OR MUSSELS CLEANED AND RINSED
s LB SQUID CUT INTO RINGS s TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE s OZ TOMATOES CHOPPED For each packet: s TABLESPOONS PARSLEY CHOPPED s PRAWN
Preparation: Put 4 large sheets of aluminum foil on a clean work surface. Form an edge, about 1 1/2 inches high, on all sides of foil sheets. Heat oil in a large skillet, over medium high heat. Add chili and garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add mussels/ clams and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, basil and parsley; cook for 5 minutes more. Remove pan from heat; remove and discard chili pepper, garlic and basil leaves. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add spaghetti and cook just until very al dente. Reserving 2 tablespoons cooking liquid; drain pasta. Immediately add pasta, cooking liquid, squid, prawns and shrimp to pan with mussels, stir together and cook over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Divide pasta and sauce among foil sheets; add garnish to each packet and fold foil over pasta, crimping edges to make four sealed pouches. Place pouches on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. Transfer pouches to plates and open at the table.
History:
1390 Pear Ave., Mountain View (650) 254-1120 www.mvpizzeriaventi.com
Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
The term, “al cartoccio”, from the word ‘carta’ for paper - means cooking food in parchment paper or a sack. This cooking method is traditionally used to seal in flavors of otherwise delicate ingredients, such as seafood, but can be used successfully with vegetables and lighter fare. The original use of parchment paper is still viable but foil is equally acceptable. This method, contrary to popular belief, is not derived from the French, en papillotte, which is traditionally used when cooking beef. We trust you will find this style of cooking to be the perfect method for preparing the herbs, seafood and pasta in our recipe, allowing all of the ingredients to gently come together, in this beautiful tableside display.
From our kitchen to yours, Buon appetito! Chef Marco Salvi, Executive Chef *> Ê Ì Ê7ii ÞÊUÊ Ûi LiÀÊ£Î]ÊÓää ÊU Page 33