PAF
COPENHAGEN
MAGAZINE
SPRING 2011
ISSUE # 03
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CONTENTS SPRING 2011
EDITOR
michael maximillian hermansen
VIKTOR & ROLF
FIFI & LOUBOUTIN
COLLETTE DINNIGAN
by michael maximillian hermansen
by michael maximillian hermansen
by michael maximillian hermansen
page 006
page 026
page 058
TSUMORI CHISATO
LE PETIT PALAIS
SHIATZY CHEN
by michael maximillian hermansen
by michael maximillian hermansen
by michael maximillian hermansen
page 082
page 102
page 130
MARITHÉ & FRANCOIS GIRBAUD
FILLE DANS UN CHAMP DE BLÉ by Lucia O’Connor-McCarthy
by michael maximillian hermansen
page 168
page 206
page 216
by michael maximillian hermansen
COMMUUN
PAF ALEXIS MABILLE
SAMANTHA EVERTON
page 244
page 282
by michael maximillian hermansen
by samantha everton
magazine
Paris S/S 2011
Viktor & Rolf PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
PAFmagazine
S/S 2011
THEY WAITED TO BECOME THE LAST SEASON THING
PHOTO: IOLEX / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
shoes and bag: christian louboutin lingerie: fifi chachnil
Un peu de Franรงais
photographer MICHAELHERMANSEN.COM styling MICHAEL MAXIMILLIAN HERMANSEN hair & make-up ANGELICA SCHUBERT model JULIE B scoop models
necklace: miss bibi hot pants: north
necklace: miss bibi
lingerie: fifi chachnil
PAFmagazine
lingerie: fifi chachnil
necklace: eric et lydie bracelets: eric et lydie hot pants: north
necklace & bracelets: eric et lydie
necklace: miss bibi hot pants: north
lingerie: fifi chachnil
brooches: eric et lydie hot pants: north
JEWELRY & HOTPANTS: NAGPEOPLE / NAGPEOPLE.COM SHOES & BAG: HOLLY GOLIGHTLY / HOLLYGOLIGHTLY.DK LINGERIE & HAIR SLIDE: TEKINOKTAY FINEST LINGERIE (CPH)
THEY TOOK TURNS TO REMAIN IN THE SPOTLIGHT
PHOTO: THE ONES2WATCH/ IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
PHOTO: ONES2WATCH / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
SHE WAS A VALUABLE ADDITION TO THE ROOM FULL OF TROPHIES
Collette Dinnigan In Paris S/S 2011
PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
SHE FROZE IN TERROR AS THE THREE-LIMBMONSTER REACHED TOWARD HER EYEBALLS
PHOTO: LUCAS JACKSON / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
TSUMORI CHISATO
In Paris
BACKSTAGE S/S 2011 PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
VISIT PAFMAGAZINE ON FACEBOOK f a c e b o o k . c o m / PA F m a g a z i n e
Le Petit Palais
photographer MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM stylist REBECCA SPENCER SØLTOFT hair & make-up MARIA ESPE HANSEN model KATRINE D. diva models
belt: ysl dress: kendt shoes: balenciaga
shirt: lacoste shoes: miu miu bracelet: lancĂ´me pants: ambre babzoe earrings: aurĂŠlie bidermann
necklace: ysl bracelet: chanel shoes: louboutin bathing suit: tabernacle twins
bag: chanel dress: kendt sunglasses: balenciaga shoes: nicholas kirkwood bracelet: aurĂŠlie bidermann
top: kendt bag: chanel shoes: louboutin hot pants: united colors of benetton
bathing suit: lacoste shoes: alaĂŻa
bathing suit: lacoste shoes: alaĂŻa
t-shirt: tusnelda bloch shoes: balenciaga pants: by zoĂŠ hat: lacoste top: by zoĂŠ
shoes: nicholas kirkwood sunglasses: balenciaga jumpsuit: by zoĂŠ t-shirt: lacoste
shoes: nicholas kirkwood sunglasses: balenciaga jumpsuit: by zoĂŠ t-shirt: lacoste
bag: chanel shoes: alaĂŻa dress: lacoste earrings: aurĂŠlie bidermann
dress: kendt USEFULL LINKS: KENDT / KENDT.NU DRESSES: BY KENDT BAGS: CHANEL BELT: YVES SAINT LAURENT BRACELETS: CHANEL, LANCOME, NECKLACE: YVES SAINT LAURENT SHOES: LOUBOUTIN, MIU MIU, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD HOLLY GOLIGHTLY / HOLLYGOLIGHTLY.DK BRACELETS: AURÉLIE BIDERMANN EARRINGS: AURÉLIE BIDERMANN SHOES: ALAÏA, BALENCIAGA, LOUBOUTIN LOCATION: ODDFELLOWPALAEET.DK
IT HAS BEEN A WHILE SINCE SHE DID IT FOR FUN
PHOTO: POP MAGAZINE / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
In Paris
photographer: maximillian-photography.com WORDS BY Victoire / GV Miao fashion blogger lamode-gvmiao.blogspot.com
THE TAIWANESE DESIGNER WANGCHEN TSAI-HSIA FOR SHIATZY CHEN – “NEO- CHINESE CHIC” AT PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2011
GV Miao (fashion blogger) got her feeling of attachment to the Taiwanese designer Wang-Chen Tsai-Hsia for Shiatzy Chen probably because she herself is half Taiwanese (her mother is Taiwanese) and born in the States. Wang-Chen started her fashion career in the 1970s as a seamstress in a clothing store in Taiwan and has become the founder/design director of Shiatzy Chen and the only Chinese member of the French Fashion Federation thirty years later. Her designs have always been beautiful and full of oriental elegance since the debut of Shiatzy Chen at the Paris Fashion Week in 2008. Wang-Chen blends Eastern and Western fashion senses into her clothes. They are crafted in Western cuts, in top-quality brocade and silk with exquisite hand-stitched craftsmanship like embroidery, appliques and beading. The brand spirit for Shiatzy Chen is “neo-Chinese chic,” which transfers traditional Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion design, and therefore its collections always result in a beautiful amalgamation of oriental aesthetics and western splendor. Each season Shiatzy Chen picks a Chinese element as an inspiration for the new collection, such as the essence of jade for the 2010 Fall/Winter collection, traditional Chinese calligraphy and classical ink and wash paintings for the 2010 Spring/ Summer collection, the Silk Road for the Fall/Winter 2009 Collection, and Chinese porcelain works for the 2009 Spring/ Summer collection. The inspiration for Wang-Chen this season was traditional Chinese puppetry. As GV Miao commented that in typical Wang-Chen Tsai-Hsia for Shiatzy Chen style, the clothes embody the spirit of “neoChinese chic.” Without exception her latest collection at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 beautifully harmonized eastern aesthetics with western ones, demonstrating how cross-cultural fashion fertilization can make for some great clothes. In the designer’s own words: “This collection employs traditional Chinese art of shadow puppetry with western art deco essentials... Just like traditional Chinese puppetry, the collection instills elements of light and shadow through theatrical emotions and opulent imagination.” The rigid and geometric lines, combined with a softness of silhouette layered on top and flowyness of many light-weight fabrics, such as silk chiffon, organza and lace formed an interesting contrast. The color combination of gold, goldish yellow and tangerine added a sense of extreme luxury to the designs in Chinese culture.
PAFmagazine
1920’s style lingerie sets with cute little silk boyshorts
the patterned organza evening gowns with flowy trains are GV Miao’s favorite in this collection.
red is traditionally an auspicious color in Chinese culture and represents happiness and good luck. The shadows of the models disappeared one by one behind the red screen – an action which echoed the shadow puppet theme.
AM I TION WAS LY PHOTO:
WHAT I EAT? THE QUESPESTERED HER AS SHE EXAMINING THE SICKLOOKING ASPARAGUS SKINNYGOSSIP.COM
/
IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
EATING DISORDERS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY By Stina Dannerfjord photos: maximillian-photography.com
Today the fashion industry has become more aware of anorexic models and the dangers of anorexia nervosa compared to when I was working as a model twelve years ago. However, there are still lots of girls who suffer from the inhuman demands set forth by the modelling agencies and the industry as a whole as to how the body of a young model should look. A study from 2007 indicates that approximately 40% of all models might currently be suffering from some kind of eating disorder. Like others who suffer from anorexia, an anorexic model develops fear of becoming fat and – as a consequence of this – of losing jobs. Unfortunately this fear is not unfounded. Many models have been told by managers that they need to lose weight in order to keep working. I remember very clearly how I was constantly told that I needed to lose weight, even though I was a size 36 and 180 cms tall (57 kgs.) I was still being turned down for modelling jobs because I was considered to be too fat. I tried extremely hard to lose weight; I went to the gym daily for 1½ hours, and I was neurotically aware of what I ate. Making matters worse I was still told that my hips and thighs were too big. The pressure on a young teenager like myself was and is extremely hard, and many girls (and boys) can’t handle it and develop some kind of eating disorder. I specifically remember a girl suffering from bulimia, who told me that she would just throw up her food every time she had eaten, and she was already extremely skinny with a BMI well below what is considered healthy. Another girl told me that she took some very strong diet pills in order to keep her weight down. The pills were most likely some kind of ephedrine, which is considered an illicit drug among athletes today. She was a gorgeous girl who had just started modelling, and she had the perfect body for the job; a small and petite figure, small breasts and a nice and small bottom. I didn’t see her for about six months, and the next time I met her she was a totally different girl with no breasts and no bottom.
The most shocking thing I remember about her was the fact that she had developed a fine, thin layer of hair all over her body. Growing a layer of hair like this is a very clear sign that a person has an unhealthy body weight. When a body is completely emaciated its temperature drops and an extra layer of hair develops as a sort of self-defence mechanism to keep it warm. This girl was clearly suffering from anorexia nervosa, and the fine layer of hair on her body should have been recognized as a clear danger sign by the managers in the fashion industry. I think many models start out on a small scale by just paying attention to their weight and by dieting and exercising. Then slowly over time their self-image gets distorted. They start perceiving themselves as fat and they become really obsessed with food and develop a fear of gaining weight. At a certain time in my life I myself ate diet pills. They were available only by prescription, but I had gotten them from a friend who was overweight (she was not a model and the pills had been prescribed by a doctor). In addition to this I used a lot of laxatives and often threw up my food. I even exercised daily for a couple of hours. Ultimately it paid off: I got pretty and skinny, but I also remember how horrible and lonely that made me feel. Upon quitting the fashion industry it took me years to learn how to cope with my body and have a normal relationship with food again, not to mention learning to live with the physical consequences on my body due to the many years of malnutrition and extensive use of laxatives. I was lucky in the sense that I was able to overcome my eating disorder at a young age with only minimal damage to my body. My personal advice to young models out there – both girls and boys – is to watch out and listen to your body. If your BMI and body fat percentage start becoming dangerously low, it can have severe consequences for your body and it can affect you for the rest of your life.
ENJOY THIS MOMENT LITTLE ANGEL, CAUSE IN THE REAL WORLD THERE’S NO PLACE FOR CHUBBY GIRLS LIKE YOU PHOTO: UNKNOWN / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
PHOTO: ANOTHER MAGAZINE / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
TO THE SOUND OF CAMERA SNAPS, THE YOUNG FOREIGNER TRIED TO REMEMBER THE WORD “HUMILIATION” FROM HER LIMITED ENGLISH VOCABULARY
MARITHé + FRANCOIS
GIRBAUD Backstage & Runway PARIS S/S 2011
PHOTOGRAPHER: MICHAELHERMANSEN.COM
THE MACHINE WAS READY. SINGLE PRESS OF THE BUTTON WOULD START SPITTING THEM OUT ONE AFTER ANOTHER
PHOTO: KEVIN TACHMAN / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
HAVING BEEN SCOUTED SEEMS A DUBIOUS BLESSING. FROM BEING THE PRETTY ONE TO ONE OF THE PRETTY PHOTO: MODEL WHISPERS / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
FILLE DANS UN CHAMP DE BLÉ PHOTOGRAPHER: LUCIA O’CONNOR-McCARTHY / LUCIAOMC.COM MODEL: ANNA / BOOKINGS (LONDON) STYLING: LUCIA O’CONNOR-McCARTHY MAKE-UP: DIXIE O’CONNOR-McCARTHY HAIR: ANDREE MARIE ETTIEN
TEAMWORK IS CRITICAL: THE PHOTOGRAPHER TAKES PHOTOS IN THE BEDROOM, WHILE THE SCOUT STANDS OUTTHE LEGEND HAS IT THAT SIDE TALKING PARENTS FOR YEARS A TO PHOTO: DAZED & CONFUSED / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
SECRET MODEL HAS BEEN ELIMINATING THE SLEAZY FELLOWS OF THE INDUSTRY
PHOTO: ONES2WATCH / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
THEY REFUSED TO LET GO THE FRONT ROW
IT WAS FOR THE GREATER GOOD. OR SO THEY SAID. PHOTO: THEONES2WATCH / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
PHOTO: LEIA JASPE / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
HER DISAPPOINTMENT TURNED TO INDIFFERENCE AFTER YET AGAIN BEING PAID WITH A DRESS AND A FEW QUARTERS PHOTO: VOGUE (US) / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
COMM
MUUN SHOWING OFF IN PARIS PHOTOGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
BACKSTAGE AND RUNWAY
S/S 2011
HAVING BEEN AWAY FROM HER FATHER, THE MODEL FOUND SOME COMFORT IN THE ARMS OF THE PHOTOGRAPHER
COLD AS SHE WAS, SHE WANTED TO MAKE THE FAMOUS PHOTOGRAPHER HAPPY
PHOTO: TERRY RICHARDSON / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
PHOTO: PLAYING FASHION / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
THE FOOD COURT WAS FULL BUT THE FOOD WAS LATE PHOTO:
HER TALENT TO ACT LIKE A TOY WAS BECOMING LEGENDARY
MAX
AVDEEV
/
IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
PHOTO: HINT MAG / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
WHAT STARTED AS A JOKE, BECAME HER OBSESSION
PHOTO: KEVIN TACHMAN / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
HE WAS VERY S E R I O U S ABOUT HIMSELF
PHOTO: KEVIN TACHMAN / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
Al
PHOTO
lexis Mabille
OGRAPHER: MAXIMILLIAN-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM
PAFmagazine
PARIS S/S 2011
AND THERE IT WAS - HER BACKSTAGE PASS AND AN OPEN BAR TICKET PHOTO:
VOGUE
CHINA
/
IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
birthday wish
SAMANTHA EVERTON SAMANTHAEVERTON.COM
blue day
awakened
chameleon
illusion
vanish
spring passing
VISIT PAFMAGAZINE ON FACEBOOK f a c e b o o k . c o m / PA F m a g a z i n e
OVER THE CENTURIES, PEOPLE HAVE INVENTED THE MOST PECULIAR WAYS TO MAKE A LIVING
PAFMAGAZINE.COM / IHURTIAMINFASHION.COM
YOU CAN GET ACCESS TO ADDITIONAL MATERIAL LIKE BEHIND THE SCENE PHOTOS AND VIDEOS FROM DIFFERENT PAF PHOTO SHOOTINGS AT PATREON.COM/ PAFmagazine. YOU CAN ALSO GET YOUR NAME AND LINK TO YOUR FAVORITE SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORM ON PAGE 2 IN PAFmagazine. BE A PAFpatron AND SPONSOR. HIT THE LINK BELOW
patreon.com/pafmagazine
VISIT PAFMAGAZINE ON FACEBOOK f a c e b o o k . c o m / PA F m a g a z i n e
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