PHOTOS: MISSY REYNOLDS
›› FOOD & DRINK
Eat, prey, pub... Hawk’s Tavern swoops in for the kill in Mill Valley by Car o l I nke llis
P
lease forgive me, Tyler Florence. I his Hawk’s burger ($12) of grass-fed beef, had no idea who you were until the Pt. Reyes Toma opening of your Mill Valley shop cheese and bacon, generated so much excitement. Then, it except he didn’t seemed, you were all over the Bay Area, think it was enough with restaurants popping up in quick of a meal—but he succession. But I, for one, was not about didn’t really get to fall for all the hype... the shared plates Well, I have seen the error of my ways, concept. The prices Tyler. Based on meals at your latest res- seem downright taurant, Hawk’s Tavern (the reincarnated reasonable, but add Dish) in Mill Valley, I understand your ce- up all those plates, lebrity status. and the check can Open only a few months, this “gastro- be surprising. pub” is casual and comfortable, and it’s It’s no surprise, unquestionably more about the food than though, that the the drink (though there’s plenty of beer Tavern is full, even and wine to choose from). It has the best on a Monday night. of both worlds—excellent food and service Chef Rob Lind’s in a laid-back, un-snooty atmosphere. attention to detail The small bar at the entrance has sev- is evident in each eral high tables and stools, plus a couple of dish, which is careflat-screen TVs. The dining room itself is fully prepared and cozy, yet, thankfully, tables are not packed plated. The pureed together. And, as would be expected, the cauliflower soup room is very rustic, with rough-hewn ($8), poured at the table, surrounded a wood tables and paneling, wood wainscot- few florets and a large (local) fried oyster. ing, a few faux hawks scatAnd it was delicious, really: tered about, old Western art Well, I have seen smooth, creamy and definitely and oddly, a couple of steer cauliflowery. The warm mushskulls on the walls. Outdoor the error of my room salad ($9), a mix of wild dining, covered and warmed ways, Tyler. mushrooms, watercress, crispy by heat lamps, is an option, sauteed onions, poached egg though the traffic noise on and salsa verde, is a must for Miller Avenue can be annoying. mushroom lovers—earthy, excellent and The menu offers about 20 small plates satisfying on a winter night. meant to be shared; some are enough for But then so was the bangers and a light entree, others definitely not. The mash ($13), another outstanding dish; dedicated carnivore with us really enjoyed the buttermilk mashed potatoes were
There’s nothing ‘pub food’ about this pub.
among the best we’ve ever and arugula; and the mushroom paptasted—each bite melted pardelle ($14), wide noodles and lots in the mouth. The deliof roasted wild and “tame” mushrooms cious peppers and prawns with Bloomsdale spinach, herbed bread ($13) a plate of shishito crumbs and a lemon caper beurre blanc. peppers, garlic, chili flakes A children’s menu offers some favorand cilantro topped with ites, though a little more high end than three perfectly grilled usual—a bowl of tomato bisque (esprawns had a bit of a bite, chewed by the 4-year-old) accompanies but no real heat. the grilled cheese sandwich. The fresh-baked pretOh, and dessert. We zel ($3) with caraway salt thought the warm chocoand housemade mustard late muc cake ($7)—with HAWK’S TAVERN is served warm—large, vanilla bean ice cream— 507 Miller Ave., Mill Valley; 415/388chewy and a hit with the was a typo; our server told 3474. hawkstavern.com. Open Monkids. Creamy, tasty organic us it’s French for molten. day through Friday 11:30am-10pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am-10pm. burrata ($10) comes with It could have been called greens, sourdough bread just about anything—our and kale chips. Both disreaction after one bite of appeared quickly. this richly chocolate, not We really liked the combinations of too sweet cake was wow! To sum up: a tastes and textures, such as the skirt delicious lesson learned. < steak ($16) atop roasted beets, lentils Clasp your talons on Carol at cinkellis@pacificsun.com.
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