›› FOOD & DRINK
Bitter harvest Chilly summer leaves us unripened, but undaunted! by Pat Fu sco
S
ummer is almost over and we’ve yet to have our usual bounty from fields and farms. By now we should be weary from finding ways to fix stone fruit and tomatoes spilling from baskets and boxes in the markets. Not so, 2011. Cold snaps when plants were setting their fruit, hot spells that sucked the moisture out of the ground, then weird June rains resulted in a less-than-glorious harvest. Late summer produce is proving to be a bit more promising—melons are sweet and the corn that is coming in has been delicious. When we do find some worth buying, it’s best to use them in maximum flavor-coaxing ways. Even peaches and nectarines that are less than ideal for eating out of hand can shine when cooked; vegetables full of flavor can become desserts. It’s fun to cast them in opposite roles: savory fruit, sweet veggies. In this turnabout fashion cooks can console themselves by making the best of a bad hand dealt by the weather gods. Although I swore off a kitchen garden this year, I could not resist putting several tomato plants in with my herbs. They went into the ground late and now I have an heirloom (Striped Marvel) that is 3 feet tall... without a single blossom. Two dependable Romas are doing their best, but I’m impatient. I’m not alone: Friends are moaning over the green tomatoes in their home gardens, too. Green tomatoes have a long history with Southern cooks; battered and fried, they are wildly popular now in restaurants across America. Tart clean flavor and fine texture make them good candidates for other preparations, as well: a sort of vegetarian mincemeat to be preserved and used in the winter months, “icebox pickles” (sliced and tangy, kept chilled and served as a condiment), sweet-and-sour jam that is like marmalade and just as useful. One of my favorite concoctions is spicy green tomato pie. A very different take using pastry, the Italian recipe that follows is a sophisticated way to make use of our slow-to-ripen crop. ●
●
●
●
Crostata di Pomodori e Pistacchi Tomato and Pistachio Tart Serves 8
2 pounds green tomatoes 1-3/4 cups sugar Grated zest of 1/2 lemon and 1/2 small orange 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon shelled unsalted pistachios 2 large oranges or 2 cups peeled and halved large seedless green grapes Pastry for a 10-inch tart
Peel and seed the tomatoes and cut them into very small pieces. Put them in a 18 PACIFIC SUN AUGUST 19 - AUGUST 25, 2011
stainless steel saucepan, add the sugar and mix well. Cover and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Remove lid and simmer for 1-1/2 hours or until the tomatoes are transparent and syrupy. When you’re ready to use tomatoes, add grated zests, mixing well. Chop the pistachios in a food processor in batches. Do not chop too finely. Reserve until needed. Butter and flour a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Roll the dough into a circle large enough to fit the pan. Drape dough over rolling pin; unroll it over prepared pan and fit it into place. Trim and crimp the edges. Refrigerate until ready to fill. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. If you’re using oranges, peel them using a sharp knife; remove the peel and white pith and slice 1/4- inch thick. Spoon tomato preserves into crust. Sprinkle the pistachios over the preserves and arrange the oranges or other fruit over top as desired. Bake for 55 minutes or until the crust has browned. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes. Remove pan sides and cool completely on the rack. Turn out on a serving plate. Serve at room temperature. Note: If desired, the fruits may be painted with orange marmalade, melted and cooled, to keep the fruit shiny.—Adapted from Southern Italian Cooking (Bantam, 1991) by Jo Bettoja ●
●
●
●
Sweet corn is always irresistible. It’s no wonder it can be turned into a dessert that emphasizes both its vegetal flavor and its milky quality in a custard of Brazilian origin. The base mixture is often steamed in folded cornhusks tamale-style to accompany savory foods, but when it is sweetened it becomes rich and creamy. It’s especially nice with sliced fruit (peaches, nectarines) or berries served on the side.
Pamonha Serves 10
5 ears corn 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk 1/2 cup coconut milk 4 tablespoons melted butter 3 eggs 1/2 teaspoon each salt and baking powder 1 teaspoon nutmeg
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch springform pan and wrap the outside securely with aluminum foil. Working over a wide, shallow bowl, cut the kernels off the cobs with a sharp knife. Scrape the cobs to extract juice, add to kernels. Reserve 1 cup kernels. In a blender, combine all ingredients except the reserved kernels. Blend until
Going green... and staying green, at least this season.
thoroughly mixed and almost smooth, about 1 minute. Stir in the remaining kernels and pour mixture into prepared pan, then place it on a baking sheet. Bake for about an hour and 15 minutes, until the top of the cake is golden brown. Let cool before removing sides of pan. ●
●
●
●
The last two recipes prove that summer fruits can add a lot to the savory side of a menu. Soups, sauces, condiments and combinations of meats and fruit bring a refreshing flavor mix to the table. A take on a Mexican favorite has surprises inside. In the second, a cold soup is jewel-colored like its namesake but tastes delightfully different.
Fresh Fruit Quesadillas Serves 4
4 9-inch flour tortillas 1-1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil 2 cups (4 ounces) shredded queso asadero or Monterey Jack cheese 2 large peaches (peeled) or nectarines (unpeeled), halved, pitted and very thinly sliced, about 2 cups 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro 1 jalapeno chile, seeded and thinly sliced into rounds
Lay tortillas on cutting board. Lightly brush tops with oil, turn them oiled side down. Divide cheese evenly among tortillas. Arrange a layer of peach slices on one side of cheese. Sprinkle peaches with cilantro and chile, dividing them evenly. Fold tortillas in half over the filling. Preheat a griddle or skillet over mediumhigh heat (hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle on contact). Add as many folded tortillas as will fit without crowding. Adjust heat to medium-low and grill 1-2 minutes
until underside is lightly browned. Use a spatula to turn them over and grill for 1-2 minutes more, until second side is lightly browned and cheese is melted. Remove with spatula to the cutting board and repeat with remaining tortillas. ●
●
●
●
Fresh Fruit Borscht Serves 4
1-1/2 cups diced Santa Rosa or Italian “prune plums” (about 4 medium plums) 1-1/2 cups blueberries, picked over, rinsed, drained 1 cup dry red wine 1 cinnamon stick (3 inches long) 3 whole cloves 1/3 cup sugar Cream (optional) Lemon slices, for garnish
Place fruit, wine, spices and sugar in a soup pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, partially cover the pot, and simmer gently until fruits are very soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove and discard spices. Ladle the soup into a blender or food processor in small batches and puree. Strain the soup through a sieve into a large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Taste soup and adjust, if necessary (add more sugar if it’s too tart, water if it’s too strong). Cover the bowl; refrigerate at least 3 hours. Ladle borscht into 4 chilled bowls. If desired, drizzle each with a tablespoon of cream. Garnish each bowl with a lemon slice and serve at once.—Adapted from Things Cooks Love (Sur La Table, 2010) by Marie Simmons Contact Pat at patfusco@sonic.net.
Give us a taste of your thoughts at ›› pacificsun.com