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Petaluma Theatre Square 2md & C Street (707) 762-6888 Mon.-Sat. 11:30-9:15 Sun. 3:30-9:15
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by Car o l I n ke l l i s
arin diners are fortunate to have so many good Italian restaurants close by—from pizzerias and cafeteriastyle casual spots to upscale establishments. Add to that list Bistro Ginolina in San Rafael, which replaced another Italian eatery, Cinecitta. Owners Gino LaMotta and Lynne (Lina) Rossotti are no strangers to the San Rafael dining scene—both were part of local favorite Salute (that burned down ďŹ ve years ago). The new incarnation in no way resembles the old. The homey little touches are gone, as is the movie screen. The room has been opened up for a sleeker, more contem- ‘It’s boisterous, close—and oh, so Italian.’ porary—yet comfortable—ambience, with an open kitchen (including a wood/gassalads (also available). ďŹ red pizza oven), a modern bar with a full In contrast to the mild soup was the liquor license, plus several tables outside for good-sized pizza of the day ($12), a delioutdoor dining. cious, crisp, thin crust topped with tomato A hearty greeting is extended to each patron sauce, Calabrian peppers, arugula and calaupon entering. LaMotta seems to know most mari rings. The peppers packed a wallop— of his customers—who have been coming in so much so that they tended to obliterate droves since Ginolina opened. any other taste. A little more arugula and On a Saturday, even with a reservation, we a lighter touch on the peppers would have had to wait. We’d have been rendered this pizza excelhappy to sit at the bar with a lent. The four pizzas on BISTRO GINOLINA glass of wine—but that was the regular menu ($11901 B Street, San Rafael; full, too. Unfortunately, there $13.50) each feature a dif415/258-8590. Open every just isn’t much space availferent type of cheese, from day from 11:30am-10:30pm. able for waiting. Fortunately, the Margherita (mozzait wasn’t a long wait. rella) to the Gorgonzola, There’s not much extra which, in addition to the space in the dining area either. Tables are so cheese has prosciutto and pear. close that the waitstaff practically “dancesâ€?— As one would expect, an assortment of while carrying food and drink—to avoid pasta dishes is offered (starting at $13). The bumping into each other. This is not the spot standout, linguine con carcioďŹ e aragosta for agoraphobes or claustrophobes; it’s bois- ($17.50), combined sautĂŠed artichokes and terous, close—and oh, so Italian. generous pieces of tender and sweet Maine And the food is as well. Chef Nick Cozza, lobster with fresh herbs and a saffron cream who grew up with nonna’s cooking, trained sauce that complemented rather than overat a culinary institute in Italy and has worked powered the dish. at well known Italian eateries, so he knows Fish, steak, pork chop and chicken entrees whereof he “cooks.â€? ($20-$36), each served with different fresh While perusing the menu, we dipped vegetables, round out the menu. —and devoured—rustic bread in a fruity olDessert offerings include gelato, panna ive oil full of garlic and parsley. It was so good, cotta and mascarpone cheesecake ($4.50we ordered more bread—the bruschetta di $6.50). We chose the apple tart ($8.50) special. fava ($8.50), grilled country bread with fava Though heated unevenly, it was still very beans, fennel, red onion, goat cheese and good. Brandy-soaked apples and toasted ecks of prosciutto. Hard to eat (a bit messy), almonds topped with vanilla ice cream dusted but easy to enjoy; a great combination of with cinnamon melded together perfectly and avors and textures. provided a lovely conclusion to the meal. We also tried a bowl of the minestrone As we walked out, LaMotta shook our ($7), tomato-based and thick with vegetables hands and thanked us for coming in—as he and cannellini beans. Our only complaint: It does with everyone (except for those who get could have used more seasoning. The insalata a big hug). And that’s Italian. ✚ Greca ($9), a large plate crispy romaine, bell Dish it up for Carol at cinkellis@paciďŹ csun.com. peppers, green olives and feta dressed in a piGive us a taste of your thoughts at quant oregano vinaigrette is a pleasant change ›› paciďŹ csun.com from the standard mixed green or Caesar
JAMES HALL
Often Imitated, Never Duplicated
No one does Italiano like Ginolina