Islandliving Fiji
SUMMER 2015 | ISSUE 14
c fi i c a P , e n i s i u C , m o Cust Culture
Island Hop YASAWAS
Culture
OUR HISTORY
Fashion Flash PACIFIC DESIGNS
Beauty Buzz
BACK TO THE FUTURE
Pacific Pulse
NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+REAL ESTATE
Plus
FOOD+HEALTH+MORE
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Ni Sa Bula
PICTURE: Tourism Fiji
J
\
What sets Fiji apart from the other islands in the South Pacific is its rich cultural tapestry, which has evolved over time to become what it is today. Fiji’s population of around 900,000 people, of which 50% are indigenous Fijians, 44% Indians of Muslim and Hindu belief and the remaining 6% being a mix of Europeans, Chinese, Banabans and Polynesians. Citizens of Fiji are called Fijians, regardless of their ethnicity, illustrating the wealth of cultural diversity that is clearly visible during your visit to any one of the islands. Ethnic Fijians conform to a traditional social system which is centred around a hierarchy where the chief assume leadership. Village life is a common aspect of Fijian culture, and this is something which sets Fiji apart even more, especially because members of the community from other ethnic backgrounds have been integrated into the Fijian village life, especially in the rural areas. Traditional Fijian food is one of the healthiest as it consists of a range of fresh seafood and crops from the local gardens. Techniques such as cooking in an earth oven, also known as ‘lovo,’ and over an open fire, aren’t just healthy but also bring out the natural flavours of certain food types. As a guest, you will most definitely be invited to partake in the traditional ‘kava’ ceremony, which is the official welcome into the Fijian community. Kava is Fiji’s national drink which is derived
from pounding and squeezing the juice from the roots of the macropiper methysticum plant. The drink, which most state has a calming effect, is consumed at most social gatherings where you will hear the most entertaining stories to give you a deeper insight into the Fijian way of life. It is highly recommended you keep a sarong or sulu handy for these kava sessions. Most of the Fijians of Indian descent in Fiji are the descendants of labourers from India who were brought over to work on the sugar cane plantations in the late 1800s. They have added another cultural dimension to Fiji’s vibrant community, with the beautiful integration of their culture into the Fijian way of life. The celebration of religious festivals such as Diwali (celebrated on November 11th this year) and Eid are beautiful, colourful events, filled with localised yet flavoursome Indo-Fijian curries and genuine camaraderie. The descendants of Europeans, Asians and other Pacific Islanders each bring elements of their own culture to strengthen Fiji’s diversity. Rotumans and Banabans, with equally unique cultural norms, are also well known for their good nature and humour. Regardless of who you meet in Fiji, ‘Bula’ is a word that everyone knows. A word used to greet people but also a word which means ‘life’! See you soon!
Islandliving | 1 Fiji
Fiji is a paradise for kids, with so much to see and do. Meet the local kids, swim or learn to snorkel - it will be a holiday in heaven.
Fiji: The Facts We have two seasons: warm and even warmer. It’s a sunny, tropical climate that’ll wash the winter chills from your bones. That doesn’t mean it never rains here, but you can expect May to November, our cooler months, to range from 19° to 29°C. And from December to April, the temperatures move up the register to range from 22° to 33°C.
Geography
Fiji is a very hospitable land of blue-green lagoons, lush rainforests, pine forests, mountains and 1,666 kilometres (1000 miles) of white sand beaches spread over 300 islands scattered across 709,660 square kilometres (200,000 square miles) of ocean.
Time Zone
Straddling the 180th meridian, Fiji has frequently been called ‘the crossroads of the Pacific’. In fact, the International Date Line has been adjusted so that the entire archipelago falls into the same time zone, 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. From November to February Fiji moves one hour ahead with its own daylight savings.
2 | Islandliving Fiji
Population and language
Fiji’s population is approximately 837,000 made up of indigenous Fijians, Indians, Chinese, Europeans and South Pacific Islanders. English is the official language with Fijian and Hindustani also spoken.
Religion
Fiji is a multi-cultural nation with many religious beliefs. The people are primarily of the Wesleyan persuasion. Various protestant denominations, Roman Catholicism, Hinduism and Islam are also represented.
Local customs
It is important to dress modestly when away from hotels and resorts and particularly when visiting a Fijian village. Avoid wearing a hat in a village, it is considered an insult to the village chief. It is also insulting to touch someone’s head. It’s best to not wear shoes if visiting someone’s house. When visiting a village it is customary to present an inexpensive gift of yaqona or kava to the ‘Turaga Ni Koro’, the traditional head of the village. Be prepared to shake hands and answer personal questions as to where you are from, whether married; and, if so, how many children.
PICTURE: Craig Osment.
The temperature
Health
Fiji is free from malaria, yellow fever and major tropical diseases. Inoculations are only required if travelling from an infected area. There is an effective medical system in place with government and privately run hospitals, clinics, surgical centres, dental services and pharmacies.
Phone calls and Internet
Fiji’s country code is +679. Many hotels and resorts have direct dialling facilities (IDD), and card phones are available in many shops and stores. Look for the Telecom call card signage on display. Fiji is well serviced by local mobile networks including Vodafone Fiji Limited, Digicel and Inkk Mobile. You can also arrange roaming status before travelling here as well as on arrival. Access to the internet and email is available in most parts of Fiji. In addition to sites at all major hotels, internet cafes are abundant in major cities and towns.
Currency and banking
The Fijian dollar is the basic unit of currency, available in denominations of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100. Coins are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, $1 and $2. Normal banking hours are 9:30am to 4:00pm, Monday – Friday and 9:00am to 1:00pm on Saturdays in selected areas. There is a 24-hour currency exchange service at the arrivals concourse at Nadi Airport. ATMs are located around the country and at larger resorts and hotels.
Bargaining
You’ll find many sophisticated retail outlets here, suitable for traditional tourist shopping. And if you venture a little further, you’ll discover fruit and vegetable markets, overflowing with produce, curio and handicraft vendors, Indian merchandise and specialty gift stores. It’s here that you might find yourself in a bargaining session over price. It’s all part of the experience, so go ahead and enter into the spirit of it.
Tipping
We don’t encourage tipping, but you may, if you wish, offer extra payment for an outstanding service.
Electricity
The electric current is 240 volts AC 50Hz. Fiji has threepin power outlets, which are identical to Australia and New Zealand. Leading hotels and resorts offer universal outlets for 240v or 11v shavers, hair dryers and other electrical appliances.
Quarantine
To avoid the introduction of foreign plant and animal pests and diseases, we prohibit the importation of vegetable matter, seeds, or any animal product without a permit from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forests.
Taxes
A 15% Government Value Added Tax (VAT) is applicable to all goods and services in Fiji. Visitors staying in hotels and resorts are subject to 5% Hotel Turnover Tax (HTT).
VAT refund scheme
The Fiji VAT refund scheme allows tourists to claim a refund (subject to certain conditions) of VAT paid on goods purchased in Fiji and taken out of Fiji via Nadi International Airport or Suva Wharf as the final port of departure to a foreign destination.
What are the conditions of the scheme?
To be eligible for a VAT refund under the Scheme, you must satisfy all of the following: Spend a minimum of FJ$500 (VAT Inclusive) in any of the approved licensed retailer outlets during your stay in Fiji and take the goods out of Fiji within two months from the date of purchase. Carry the goods with you as check-in baggage or hand luggage. Purchase the goods from an approved licensed retailer. You must ask the retailer for a refund form and a tax invoice(s) for goods purchased. So if you are spending over FJ$500 at Jacks, Tapoo etc make sure you ask them for the refund form. The licenced retailer must complete the form and attach receipts.
Customs duty and duty free concessions
A bona fide passenger disembarking in Fiji is entitled to the following duty and VAT free concessions: Dutiable goods accompanying passengers (other than alcohol and tobacco products) not exceeding FJ$1,000 in value. Goods that are owned by passengers and not intended as gifts or for sale – personal effects, household effects for returning residents or intending residents, articles taken out of Fiji on departure on which duty and tax have been paid. Every passenger 17 years and over can bring into Fiji the following goods duty and VAT free, provided they are accompanied and not for sale: • Cigarettes, not exceeding 250 sticks or • Cigars, not exceeding 250 grams net weight or • Tobacco not exceeding 250 grams net weight or • Any combination of (1) to (3) above, provided the total net weight does not exceed 250 grams • Spirituous liquors not exceeding 2.25 litres or • Wines, not exceeding 4.5 litres or • Beer, not exceeding 4.5 litres or • Any combination of the goods in paragraph (5) to (7) above, provided that the combination does not exceed the equivalent quantity under any one paragraph • Other dutiable goods, not exceeding F$1,000 in value.
Islandliving | 3 Fiji
out and about
Tours, Tips and Trips g in Fiji n i n e p p a h Hip &
Adrenalin Fiji’s Jet Ski Safari (below) is not to be missed, nor is the fabulous Rivers Fiji tour (below).
1
ADRENALIN FIJI What is Fiji without adventure and fun? We recently tried a couple of Adrenalin’s watersports (you’d need a month to try them all) and were blown away by the team, the equipment and the commitment to ensuring each and every punter (even those of us a little under the weather) would have a fantastic time. Adrenalin Fiji has outlets at The Sheraton and Sofitel resorts and their head office is at Port Denarau. Here are just some of the activities on offer: Jet Skiing, Fishing, Banana Rides, Parasailing, Waterparks, Leisure Cruising, Wakeboarding, Kayaking, Windsurfing, Snorkeling, Hobie Cats and Aqua Trikes.
We loved the Jet Ski Safari, a 2.5 hour guided tour of the islands and rivers surrounding the Mamanuca Islands. The tour stops at a resort along the way (or even Cloud 9, weather permitting), with a stop for snorkeling as well. The jet ski safari is great for friends traveling together (perfect for bucks’ and hens’ days) and for families as well. The guides introduced us to a bit of the ‘real Fiji’ too – talking about their home villages, traditions, food and kava. ‘Fiji time’ doesn’t seem to affect Adrenalin. The tours start on time and after our bookings were made, we simply arrived at the Sofitel Beach and the fun began.
2
RIVERS FIJI Rivers Fiji offers unique river and sea kayaking trips that are great for experienced veterans or first-time novices. The selection of trips provides an incredible opportunity to experience remote highland villages, dense tropical forests and the aqua-blue ocean alive with brilliant corals and wildlife. In 1998 – with the dedicated support of O.A.R.S. president and founder, George Wendt – Rivers Fiji was set up as a lowimpact commercial whitewater rafting operator on the Upper Navua River and kayaking trips on the Luva River. Working in consultation and collaboration with the native landowners along with government, a conservation area was established on the
Upper Navua River in 2000. The platform was set and after numerous attempts to consolidate the conservation area, the Upper Navua Conservation Area was recognsed by the Ramsar Convention in 2006 with the support of the Fiji government. Nestled in the highlands of the Serua province surrounded by thick and lush tropical rainforests and home to different species of freshwater fish, eels and other organisms is the Upper Navua River. “We at Rivers Fiji as joint custodians with the landowners will take you on a journey down through time and down the River of Eden where you will be spun back into the past with tales and historical facts from our
Fiji, it’s the adventure capital of the Pacific. From adrenalin-fueled sports and adventure to river kayaking and nightclubs, there’s something for everyone.
For a night out with the locals, head to the Nadi Farmers Club, right on the river at the edge of Nadi town.
friendly and qualified guides. “Your safety is our concern and that is our priority to ensure you enjoy the thrills and beauty of the spectacular scenery.” Explore class two to three whitewater aboard inflatable kayaks and whitewater rafts, experiencing some of Fiji’s most spectacular terrain by floating in relative comfort along two of the country’s premier liquid pathways. The ‘Luva River trip is “five adventures in one” as it takes you deep inside the Namosi Highlands, visits a village for a traditional kava ceremony with the chief, travels the river by kayak, takes you on a short hike to the tallest waterfall in the Namosi Province and finishes with an exhilarating ‘punt’ ride through the lower Navua Canyon.
The Uppder Navua Gorge excursion will take you through some of the country’s most formidable and beautiful terrain in the relative comfort of inflatable rafts. This is a special trip, not because of one unparalleled attribute upon which the success of the trip is based, but many special and scenically significant places; each individually worthy of special recognition. There is not one waterfall but many (some say at least seventy); not one short stretch of deep, narrow canyon, but kilometres. Join Rivers Fiji for the trip of a lifetime but be warned - you will want to return for seconds.
3
NADI FARMERS CLUB The NEW Nadi Farmers Club was born under the new owners Tom Liu and Tracey Farrington. This dynamic Fijian/ Australian couple transformed the old historical ‘Farmers Club’ into something different – a lifestyle venue with a relaxed, comfortable environment which offers a variety of indoor and outdoor dining, bars and a fashion boutique. The Club is situated in Nadi Town on the edge of the Nadi River. The tropical river-side beer garden with a large deck and Fijian bures is the hub of the Club with live music and entertainment where you can also dine and dance under the stars!
It’s a place of Fijian fusion, and an opportunity for tourists and locals to mingle. Offering delicious food at reasonable prices, the Nadi Farmers Club is affordable for the whole family. Recently opened on the first floor is the Musicians Club Bar featuring live music by the amazing Fijian entertainers from the west of the country. The live music night club is ‘keeping the music alive’! The New Nadi Farmers Club Bar and Restaurant is renowned for it’s successful parties, weddings and events. Drop in to discover and experience The New Nadi Farmers Club for yourself. Open 6 days a week Monday to Saturday from 10am till Late
culture
Fiji embraces many cultures but remains ‘one people.’ Indigenous Fijian, Indian, Polynesian - we’re all Fijian.
Getting your Fiji on F
iji, a land renowned the world over for its welcoming smiles and laid-back persona, wasn’t always the ideal holiday destination for Westerners. For centuries prior to European settlement, sailors avoided the so-called Cannibal Isles due the fearsome reputation of the warriors. In the early 19th century, English missionaries arrived armed only with bibles and crucifixes and were quick-marched into the great chief’s pot. Perhaps the most famous of these Christian martyrs was the Reverend Thomas Baker who, along with his entourage was ambushed, butchered and eaten in 1867. The reverend, however, had the last laugh but it wasn’t until 2003, when the chief of Nabutautau’s relatives finally apologised to Baker’s descendants in a lavish matanigasau (reconciliation) ceremony attended by more than 600 people, that his curse was lifted. In 1874 when Fiji was ceded by the paramount chief Ratu Seru Epenisa Cakobau to the British, cannibalism ceased and Christianity became the dominant religion. Yet reminders of Fiji’s violent tribal past travel home with tourists every day. The ornate wooden clubs and weapons are accurate reproductions of the heavy tools used to dispatch rivals and prepare them for the Ratu’s feast. The advance of ‘Christ’s word’ through the islands did not bode well for the ancient Fijian culture and many ‘heathen’ objects were destroyed by order of the God-fearing missionaries who by now held sway over the population. Centuries-old
6 | Islandliving Fiji
ceremonial kava bowls were burned along with pagan icons and idols and those that survived can be seen in the Fiji Museum in Suva along with Thomas Baker’s remaining shoe.
Sacred Kava – be a good guest and drink
One remnant of the ancient culture that has been preserved and now holds pride of place in Fijian village life is the kava (yaqona) ceremony performed by the chief and his most senior aides. Yaqona (yang-GO-na) is a mildly tranquilising, non-alcoholic drink that numbs the tongue and lips. Better known as kava, it’s made from the waka (dried root) of the pepper plant (macropiper methysticum). New mats are first spread on the floor where the handcarved tanoa (a wooden bowl as large as a metre across) is placed. A long fibre cord decorated with cowrie shells leads from the bowl to the guests of honour. The guests then offer a bundle of waka to the hosts followed by a short speech announcing the purpose of their visit, a custom known as a sevusevu. This is received by the hosts and acknowledged. The waka are then scraped clean and pounded in a tabili (mortar) – they used to be chewed. Nowadays the pulp is put in a cloth sack and mixed with water in the tanoa, whereas in the past, the yaqona was kneaded and strained through vau (hibiscus) fibres.
From Kava to blending traditional dance with contemporary presentation, Fiji celebrates multiculturalism.
The mixer shows the strength of the liquid to the mata ni vanua (master of ceremonies) by pouring out a cupful into the tanoa. If it appears right, the mata ni vanua says “Loba” (squeeze). The mixer squeezes the remaining juice out of the pulp, puts it aside, and announces, “Sa lose oti saka na yaqona, vaka turaga” (the kava is ready, my chief). He runs both hands around the rim of the tanoa and claps three times. The mata ni vanua then says “Talo” (serve). The cupbearer squats in front of the tanoa with a bilo (half coconut shell), which the mixer fills. The cupbearer then presents the first cup to the guest of honour, who claps once and drains it, and everyone claps three times. This continues in rank order of the guests, all the time being careful to observe the strict protocol and clapping. During the drinking from the bowl, you should be completely silent. While the village visit is a relaxed and happy affair, guests should be careful to observe some simple rules when visiting any village throughout the islands. Fijians are naturally respectful and good-mannered, often more so than their guests. It would be a pity to spoil a cheerful event with a careless faux pas. • Make sure you have kava as a traditional gift of respect, or if not, offer basic staples like tea, sugar or flour. A ball for the children is always appreciated. • When offered kava, gulp it down. Don’t sip. And always remember to clap, even if in fun. • Visitors should remove their hats • Dress modestly. Men should wear shirts and ladies a blouse and below-the-knees skirt or slacks. Bathing suits are a no-no. • When entering a private bure or residence, always remove your shoes even if the host tells you not to bother. Stand slightly stooped and never fully upright inside. • If staying in a village, always accept an offer to sleep inside a bure. To refuse is an insult. • Fijians are naturally hospitable. Do not abuse this good nature by failing to help out with either labour, cash or food.
Modern Fijian culture
The Fiji of today is typified by lavish and expansive resorts, both on the main islands and in the remote groups where an entire island is often a resort. Resort development has flourished despite a complicated traditional land tenure system that allows the 83 percent held by indigenous Fijians under communal relationships to be leased but not sold. Hence it is under this system that most resorts operate including the most prominent of these, Denarau Island, a short drive from the international airport at Nadi. Here, visitors will find the Westin Resort and Spa Fiji, Sheraton Villas, Sheraton Resort, Radisson Fiji, Wyndham Resort, Sofitel and the Hilton Resort and Spa. All-in-all, some 1720 rooms and 35 restaurants. This concentration of high-end resorts and private residences is touted by the developers as “Fiji’s only integrated island resort offering a variety of accommodation, activities and investment options. These range from premier resorts, an international championship golf course, lifestyle property and an abundance of holiday activities involving the marina.” It is this marina at Port Denarau that attracts yachties and superyacht owners alike with one of the highest standard of operations in the region and is claimed to have Fiji’s most comprehensive marine services and haul out facility including a 50 tonne travelift, forklift services, short and long term boat storage and dry stack facilities. A new 836 square metre, two-storey yacht club is also under construction. A true superyacht marina with 100 berths, including six over 35m and one over 75m, Port Denarau provides substantial retail and entertainment facilities and is perfectly placed to take advantage of the ‘Superyacht Decree’ introduced by the government in 2011. This ‘decree’ vastly simplifies the entry of superyachts into Fiji waters and permits extended chartering and cruising. While commercial cruise operators Blue Lagoon, Captain Cook and Tui Tai offer excellent tourist quality products, it
Islandliving | 7 Fiji
fiji culture is private chartering that will deliver the ultimate experience in these waters that encompass almost 20,000 square kilometres and 300-something islands, most of which are uninhabited. A private charter will allow you to take in such evocatively named locations as Taveuni, Rabi, Kioa, Yasawas, Mamanucas and the charming old heritage-listed capital of Levuka which retains the kind of Fiji character first seen by early traders and explorers. The most accessible cruising is in the Yasawa and Mamanuca islands, just a couple of hours from Port Denarau. There are plenty of superb resorts, great diving and islands to stretch your weary sea legs. Taveuni, known locally as the ‘Garden Island’, is everything you could imagine any mythical tropical island paradise to be. Sparsely populated, intensely green and dissected by streams of liquid silk. Going ashore, you can hike the narrow paths that guide you through the undergrowth to the next waterfall, and then the next. Every so often you might come across a cranky, bright red land crab throwing up a challenge. If you allow time, trek all the way to the volcanic crater at 800 metres where Lake Tagimaucia nurtures its legendary namesake bloom. Both Kioa and Rabi are curious little islands, known for their transplanted Polynesian and Micronesian populations. It’s a delight to receive an energetic greeting in their respective native customs, carefully maintained despite the distance from their original homelands. Private ships have begun finding their way out to the Northern Lau group, previously off limits to all but the most independent of travellers. With its strong Tongan influence, the islanders trace their heritage back to the days when they were at war with the Fijians some 150 years ago. The Lau Islands are the birthplace of the late Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara (the first Prime Minister and founding father of the modern nation of Fiji) and are held in high esteem as a result.
Chartering Fiji
According to Capt Dave Jameson of yachthelp.com, Fiji enjoys a mild, tropical climate with warm dry winters from May to October and a warmer wet season from November to April. Don’t let “winter” put you off as temperatures average around 29 degrees and the weather is settled with blue sunny skies. During all seasons the winds over Fiji are light or moderate and the trade winds are predominant from the east to southeast. Fiji offers a multitude of cruising options to match any discerning guest.
Fly in–fly out
All international flights will arrive at Nadi International Airport on the north-western corner of the main island of Viti Levu. Flights
8 | Islandliving Fiji
Fiji’s cultural mix ensures coulourful and interesting events for all to enjoy in relaxed convivial surroundings.
from Sydney, for example, are just 3.5 hours, and after a short walk from the airbridge, you’re at immigration. Downstairs there is a small duty-free store before you exit to the taxi rank. Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive or, if you have prearranged transfers, your driver or representative will be there immediately as you exit customs. Compared to many international destinations, Fiji is a breeze. If you are boarding a vessel at nearby Port Denarau, the taxi ride is only 15-20 minutes, about the same if you are at one of the resorts on Denarau Island. Domestic flights hub out of Nadi too and it is from here you will board either a private aircraft or a Fiji Link (formerly Pacific Sun) ATR 72-600, ATR 42-500 or De Havilland Twin Otter aircraft to destinations in the Fiji Islands group. – Rod Eime
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c