Outpost 104 - Colombia insert by Outpost Magazine

R.E.

SOARING OVER CANYONS, TREKKING THROUGH VALLEYS, RAFTING ON WHITEWATER AND CHILLING ON BEACHES—WE SHOW YOU WHY WE NAMED THIS SOUTH AMERICAN GEM AS ONE OF 2015’S TOP DESTINATIONS

Riding the big waves down the Chicamocha River

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 59

COLOMBIA

ey, with Simon Vaughaeyn Story By Robert J. Brod d Robert J. Brod Photos by Ryan Edwardson an

R E P O R T

D O O G SO

d to d the

A D V E N T U R E

T L E F R E V E N G N I H T A E R B

ood, so he

23/02/2015 4:22:40 PM

COLOMBIA

EL DORADO

The name is legendary in exploration and adventure. Synonymous with thrillseeking and reward, the hunt for the rumoured city of gold has filled books and movies for years, not to mention the imagination of scoreless generations of adventurers. Although El Dorado remains a jungle-bound enigma, centuries of explorers have landed on palm-fringed shorelines, hiked dense tropical forest, climbed snowcapped mountains and active volcanos, and trekked across deep winding canyons, all in search of the fabled, ancient city.

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 60

R.E.

And all those intrepid explorations took place in present-day Colombia, which is why Team Outpost decided to follow in their footsteps—and hoof-marks, canoe-wakes and paragliding vortexes—to explore one of the world’s great adventure destinations. Located at the crossroads of South and Central America, Colombia was the first country in South America to be colonized by the Spanish in 1525 (they first set foot there in 1499), and is believed by anthropologists to be among the first on the continent to be inhabited by humans. With a spine of volcanoes and jagged Andean Mountains surrounded by verdant Amazon jungle, as well as lined by both the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean, Colombia has captured the imagination of all whose travels have taken them there for the past 10 millennia or so—imagine that! After some difficult decades late in the last century, a settled and thriving Colombia is once again beckoning explorers in search of spectacular scenery, endless adventure, rich culture, unique cuisine, unrivalled music, warm people, unspoiled nature—and perhaps, even El Dorado itself. From the capital city of Bogotá—the gateway to Colombia for most visitors—to the far Amazonian south, from the high Andes to remote and tropical beaches, Colombia genuinely has something for everyone, and as a growing travel destination it provides the opportunity to be among the first to rediscover one of the southern continent’s great treasures. Bogotá was founded shortly after the arrival of Christopher Columbus, from whom the country gained its name. Perched at more than 2,600 metres, it provides a wonderful introduction to a country rich with coffee, gold, history and the arts. Where better to grow accustomed to the altitude than in La Candelaria: a cobblestoned neighbourhood brimming with colonial buildings, world-famous museums and wonderful restaurants. You can venture to neighbouring Monserrate Mountain and ride a funicular for a spectacular view of the entire city, or simply acclimatize by hopping from café to café, drinking in great local music and the stunning Latin vibe. From Bogotá, you are bound for rewards in Colombia as great as those of El Dorado. Unspoiled rainforest; renowned and hidden archaeological ruins; friendly fishing villages; both vibrant and undiscovered beaches; classic historic colonial towns; breathtaking mountain vistas; and the scents of exotic flowers, sea breezes and the world’s best coffee. Along the way, you can hike and trek, climb and soar, raft and canoe—or simply chill, all while mixing with cowboys and salsa dancers, indigenous guides and archaeologists, fashion designers and artists, and perhaps even a few modern-day adventurers still seeking their own fortune in the lost city of gold.

23/02/2015 3:36:40 PM

» PARAGLIDING HIGH ABOVE THE STUNNING CHICAMOCHA CANYON

N104-Outpost_v17 -final.indd 61

» GOLD TREASURES OF THE MUSEO DEL ORO, BOGOTÁ

R.J.B. R.E.

R.E.

» EXPLORING BOQUILLA’S MANGROVE FOREST OUTSIDE CARTAGENA

R.J.B.

» A CULTURAL DISPLAY ALONG THE BANKS OF THE AMAZON RIVER

R.E.

» SCOTT WILSON, SMITTEN WITH "THE POCKET MONKEY" IN THE AMAZONAS

26/02/2015 12:40:40 PM

URBAN PLEASURE:

» A RIDE UP TO MONSERRATE, ABOVE BOGOTÁ

R.E.

» THE MUSEO DEL ORO

R.J.B.

from Bogotá to Medellín to the Quaint Spots in Between

» THE ARCHBISHOPRIC CATHEDRAL IN BOGOTÁ

R.E.

Where World-class Modern Meets Cool Colonial Charm

hen conjuring up images of Colombia, many of us wouldn’t automatically think of big cities. But unlike most of its Latin American neighbours, Colombia’s population is actually largely urban, with only 25 percent of its 48 million citizens calling the countryside home. Another interesting fact: just as Canadian cities have their rivalries, so too do Colombia’s metropolises. In fact, the two biggest cities, Bogotá and Medellín, have a sibling rivalry of titanic proportions. The funny thing is that Rolos (people from Bogotá) actually think Medellín is pretty cool. The Paisas, inhabitants of Medellín, on the other hand, don’t always return the love (sound familiar, Toronto and Montreal?). But we’re not here to take sides, so let’s get down to what some of Colombia’s biggest urban centres have to offer. f you are flying to Colombia, there’s a good chance ogot

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 62

will be your gateway into the country. On the surface, Bogotá appears to be another sprawling city tucked between the folds of several mountains. Spend some time walking its streets and your impression of Bogotá will likely change. This is a city on the move, and a great deal of the country’s business is done here. But it’s not all suits and ties, either. Arguably, the most famous neighbourhood in Bogotá is colonial Candelaria, its historic old town. Here, we could see and feel history at every turn—whether dining in 19th-century surroundings, or being schooled in more recent political events at the Justice Palace. At night, university students gather near the campus, the plaza hopping with music and celebratory drink. Other highlights include the gold museum, El Museo del Oro, which houses thousands of priceless gold artifacts created by the multitude of indigenous tribes that inhabited the region prior

23/02/2015 3:38:04 PM

to the arrival of the Spanish. Internationally acclaimed artist Fernando Botero—oh, he of the well-rounded, voluminously rotund figures may have been born in edell n, but his namesake museum sits comfortably in La Candelaria. Finally, to get the big picture, a trip by tram to the hilltop of onserrate is the way to go or, if you’re feeling fit, you can hike up . onserrate not only offers great views of the valley below, but it’s also a pilgrimage site for those visiting the church and the statue of e or Ca do, the Fallen Christ. ven though edell n was established way back in the th century, it certainly isn’t a city stuck in the past. n recent years, it has been making waves and plenty of top lists as a travel destination. o what’s the deal n a word, urban planning. n , edell n was voted the ost nnovative City of the ear in a prestigious international competition. lso in

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 63

R.E.

R.J.B.

» ZIPAQUIRÁ’S SALT CATHEDRAL, 200 METRES UNDERGROUND

R.E.

R.J.B.

» LLAMAS OUTSIDE THE CATHEDRAL DOORS

R.E.

» NIGHT TIME IN BOGOTÁ'S EXQUISITE CANDELARIA NEIGHBOURHOOD

edell n’s favour is its moderate climate. itting at , metres above sea level, the weather is consistently gorgeous, hence its nickname, he City of ternal pring. here are plenty of galleries, theatres, green spaces and caf s to keep Paisas and visitors alike stoked to be there. t approximately , inhabitants, the northern city of anta arta certainly isn’t the biggest kid on the block but it possesses many great attributes, including a gorgeous Caribbean coastline, some funky neighbourhoods, and an incredible history. Founded in by the panish con uistador odrigo de astidas, anta arta is, in fact, the first panish settlement in Colombia. e wandered anta arta’s cobbled streets in the warm evening air and ate along one of its bustling pedestrian boulevards and were instantly charmed by the local laidback vibe.

23/02/2015 4:14:39 PM

R.E.

FOCUS BEYOND THE FEAR

“If

you fall out of the raft in fast water, avoid the rocks and point your feet downriver,” our guide explained during preparations for taking on Class III and IV rapids on the Chicamocha River. I went deaf with fear, and couldn’t focus on anything beyond my dread. Was I really up for this? What was the point? I could have easily caught the bus out of the valley and instead spent the afternoon very safely poolside. Still, when we were instructed to lift the inflatable raft and carry it over our heads, abided. Whitewater rafting is one of those activities that draws international adventure seekers to a region, whether it’s Peru, New Zealand or Canada. It’s natural, thrilling, and requires teamwork, which makes it quite the bonding experience to boot. It’s also a thoroughly wet event, and so anything that needed to stay dry was sealed away in a barrel strapped into the boat. From the standpoint of photography, this made waterproof cameras king of the whitewater (I strapped mine to my helmet). With the raft suspended above our heads, we marched toward the river at the bottom of the Chicamocha Canyon, and dropped it into the churning brown water. Floating down a chocolate river couldn’t be all bad, right? Right! Besides, this was a thoroughly professional outfit with a lead safety kayak in case one of us was ejected from the raft. Oh boy. I wedged my feet under the rubber folds of the raft and clutched my paddle tightly by the T-grip. And we were off. My fellow opX Colombia teammate Scott Wilson advised that the more I paddled, the more stable I’d become. That seemed counterintuitive—but at that moment I needed to believe him. o sooner had we begun floating downstream

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 64

» HEADLONG INTO THE WATERS OF THE CHICAMOCHA RIVER

R.E.

» AFTER THE RAPIDS, TEAM OUTPOST IS ALL SMILES

R.E.

Rafting the swirling whitewater of the Chicamocha—lessons not left at the river than the river tugged us ever more uickly toward the first set of rapids. I hollered and paddled hard and immediately sensed I was secure in my place on the side of the raft—just as Scott had promised. Waves crashed over us like we were on the open sea in a tempest. The watery smackdown made me laugh out loud with the thrill. No sooner had it begun than we were spat out the other side. ith our first Class under our belts, we cheered and tapped paddles. We had but a few minutes to admire the staggering beauty of the remote Chicamocha Canyon (a.k.a. the Grand Canyon of Colombia) before we locked horns once more with the river rapids, tossed like salad, hurled precariously close to the giant boulders that peppered the river. Of course, Colombia is a country of vast natural gifts and the Chicamocha Canyon is just one of many places where the rivers run long and fast, providing awesome whitewater rafting opportunities. Among the hotspots is the stunning Magdalena River that is 540 kilometres south of Bogotá. There is also the Rio Negro close to the capital city, the Barragan River in the department of Quindio in coffee-growing country, and the Suarez and Fonce Rivers in the same region as the Chicamocha (Santander). As we helped our guides haul the gear out of the valley, I was still beaming from my river experience, having gone from total fear to total exhilaration. As for the answer to my own question about the point of whitewater rafting: to be in the presence of a force far greater than ourselves, and to push outward our sense of limits and what we are capable of. This lesson wasn’t left at the river. I will carry it for the rest of my life.

23/02/2015 4:43:00 PM

For a time, Colombia was synonymous with elite competitive cycling—now it’s a cultural pastime

R.E.

A LOVE AFFAIR WITH CYCLING

» CICLOVÍA IS A WAY OF LIFE EVERY SUNDAY IN MANY OF COLOMBIA’S BIG CITIES

N104-Outpost_v17 -final.indd 65

mountain-biking opportunities. The hills and canyons around San Gil, five hours north of Bogotá, is one locale to spin your legs, test your lungs, and just get dirty. The area surrounding Medellín also has some great single track. If you need more proof that cycling has gone mainstream in Colombia, look no further than the many car-free streets in Bogotá every Sunday (and holiday!) from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Ciclovía, as it’s known, began in the capital city way back in 1976, and spread to other urban centres, like Cali and Medellín. Not so long ago, some politicians who opposed closing the streets to vehicular traffic tried to stop the event by declaring that it created traffic jams; but a public uprising ensured that their efforts to end the weekly cycle-way were driven off track (yes, pun intended). We got the chance to cruise Bogotá one Sunday morning, renting bikes and rubbing metaphorical shoulders with other cyclists, as well as joggers, walkers and skateboarders. Getting around by bike is liberating and allowed us to cover more ground, see more neighbourhoods and feel like we were part of something big—on average, an astounding two million people come out each week to enjoy the ciclovía! Build it and they will come, as they often say. That’s what Bogotá learned when they developed a vast network of dedicated bike lanes throughout the city. An estimated 300,000 to 400,000 trips are now made by bike every single day. No doubt, Colombia’s love affair with the bike is only going to grow. This is one “cycle” I hope the country will never grow out of. R.E.

And for good reason. Colombians born and raised in the mountains have not only developed high-altitude physiology, but to get anywhere they have to haul themselves up and over some sizeable mountain passes. There is no mistaking the highlands of Colombia with the flats of Holland! In the 1980s, the Colombians built their reputation as international powerhouses with cyclists like Luis Herrera and Fabio Parra riding high on the European circuit. Time passed, and the sheen wore off. But not for long. A new crop of top-drawer racers have made their way onto some of the best European teams. In 2013, Nairo Quintana placed second in the Tour de France, then went on to win the 2014 edition of the Giro d’Italia. And he isn’t alone, with other Colombians like Rigoberto Urán, Julian Arredondo, and Esteban Chaves showing their chops. But cycling in Colombia isn’t reserved only for elite athletes. As Team Outpost drove around the highlands north of Bogotá, we saw dozens of amateurs winding and grinding their way up over some brutal looking mountain passes. Not surprisingly, Colombia also has plenty of phenomenal R.E.

R.E.

hrough the millennia, Colombia’s social and political development has no doubt been shaped by its vast and varied geography. With mountains, jungles and thousands of kilometres of shoreline, these natural barriers lead to more independent regional development. These dramatic landscapes have even shaped their athletes. If you follow professional cycling, then you probably know that Colombia, for a time, was synonymous with elite cycling, particularly in the mountains.

26/02/2015 12:29:28 PM

R.E.

R.J.B.

TRIPPING

Treks not measured by difficulty but by impressions they leave on your soul

uman evolution brought us to the edge of the 227-kilometre long Chicamocha Canyon in the heart of Colombia—with the help of handy inventions like planes and cars. From there, we relied on our bipedal abilities to hike the 12-km trail down to the Chicamocha River.

The canyon was already getting toasty when we set off, and our local guide recommended we each consume two litres of water along the way. That sounded like a lot—but we knew the canyon gets as hot during the day as it does cold at night. We stopped often to photograph the grand vistas that appeared at every turn, and soon the temperatures climbed from hot to downright sizzling. But even with the sun melting us, I was happy to be there. I crave the outdoors in the same way people crave chocolate or ice cream which also do . nd find there is something elemental about hiking, as if it fulfills some fundamental aspect of human nature or better connects us with our past. Located 54 kilometres from Bucaramanga, the 46-millionyear-old Chicamocha Canyon is one of the largest in the world and bursts with geological history. Long ago, the region was a giant lake teeming with marine life, whose fossilized remains can now be found sandwiched between the canyon’s stratified layers, stacked two kilometres high in some places. The canyon itself was formed by the powerful forces of water washing away the soil, which is hard to imagine, given how dry it was when we were there. By the time we got to the bottom, I recognized the wisdom of consuming two litres of water, but perhaps too late. I felt pretty heat-fatigued. After drinking several glasses of local fruit juice and popping some salt pills, I was soon on the mend and ready for more exploration of this truly incredible and utterly breathtaking edifice.

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 66

» CHICAMOCHA CANYON, MILLIONS OF YEARS IN THE MAKING, BREATHTAKING VIEWS AT EVERY TURN

R.E.

THE HIGH FANTASTIC

I don’t measure the greatness of a hike by my level of comfort, but rather by the impression left on my soul. Chicamocha definitely impressed me. Colombia is a hiker’s paradise and the canyon isn’t the only game in town. One of the most popular parks in Colombia is Los Nevados National Natural Park in the Cordillera Central of the Colombian Andes. It offers a staggering amount of variety, from snowcapped volcanoes to cobalt-blue lagoons, with thousands of plant species as well as an impressive variety of mammals. The park is also home to the 5,300-metre volcano Nevado del Ruiz, which erupted in 1985, killing an estimated 25,000 people, mostly by ensuing mud slides. Even today the park is occasionally closed due to volcanic activity, so it’s always best to check ahead before making plans to hike there. From high mountains to coastal scenery, toward the northeast of the country near Venezuela, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range juts from the shores of the Caribbean Sea. The hiking opportunities are endless, including four-day to six-day treks to The Lost City (Ciudad Perdida), built by the Tayrona Indians sometime between the eighth and 14th centuries. Tens of thousands of indigenous people, including the Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco and Kankuamo groups live in these mountains. If you’re a jungle person and like a bit of wildlife and some hot and steamy trekking, then it’s Colombia’s far south for you. ake a flight to eticia, the capital of the department of the Amazonas, and hit the jungle trails. The Amazon is vast, wild and wet, and provides plenty of options to explore the natural world on its own terms. Whether your ideal trek is high mountain passes or exploring ancient sites, being caressed by ocean breezes or hacking through verdant rainforest, Colombia’s hiking options are as diverse as the country’s wonders.

23/02/2015 4:47:42 PM

» VILLA DE LEYVA’S FAMED PLAZA MAYOR

R.E.

R.J.B.

R.E.

» TAKING A RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE

HISTORIC VILLA DE LEYVA

hey were still cleaning up the Plaza Mayor when Team Outpost arrived. The previous night thousands had gathered to celebrate Little Candles Day ( Día de las Velitas), a holiday marked by lighting lanterns, candles and fireworks. It’s a big deal in Colombia and rings in the unofficial start of the Christmas holiday season (on December 7).

The square itself almost seemed to be nursing a hangover that morning, as cleaners swept the cobbled streets. I could almost hear the town itself murmur, Lo siento. No estoy en mi mejor momento —I am sorry, I’m not at my best. Villa de Leyva is Colombia’s festival-central; but when it’s not hosting one of its many annual events—for kites and independent film, among other things it is a picture perfect, relatively tranquil colonial town of 10,000 people. Founded way back in 1572, in a valley 2,000 metres up in the Andean highlands, it’s considered one of the finest examples of a colonial town in Colombia. Lately, more and more people from Bogotá (four hours by car) have been drawn to its historic streets and pleasant, dry climate. Rolos (people from Bogotá, as I mentioned earlier!) aren’t the first ones to appreciate illa de eyva. n previous centuries, it was a retreat for military officers, clergy and nobility, and was declared a national monument in 1954. But the town itself isn’t all there is to this corner of Colombia; the entire area beckons visitors and explorers. eyond the th century churches and Spanish-style villas awaits a landscape of undulating hills. here are many ways to explore the

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 67

» STOPPING TO REST DURING A RIDE THROUGH COLOMBIA’S BADLANDS

R.E.

R.J.B.

R.E.

Colombia’s festival-central thrives in the culture of the Andean Highlands

countryside, including by x and uad bike tours. Team Outpost opted for a quieter option and mounted horses. It was a meandering affair through the badlands that led us first to the tur uoise mineral rich waters of the ozos zules. e took in the views, then trotted on to l F sil, a museum just outside Villa de Leyva. Here, we were treated to a ginormous 110-million-year-old kronosaurus boyacensis fossil, which was uncovered in 1977 by a farmer tilling his field. his baby literally, it was a baby is seven metres long without its tail (estimates put its total length at 12 metres, all in . t that size, shuddered to think of getting between junior and Mister and Missus Kronosaurus. e traded our four legged transportation for a pickup truck and sped along the dirt roads, leaving a dust cloud in our tracks. In time, we piled out of the truck at the Muisca astronomical observatory, an archaeological site dating back almost two millennia. ozens of phallic shaped sandstone monoliths dotted the grassy field, which were used by the ancient Muisca Indians to calculate the planting seasons based on the stones’ alignment with the sun and moon. hen the panish arrived they were none too pleased to see the local indigenous using the site for “pagan” ceremonies, so they nicknamed the place Little Hell ( l nfiernito). Our guide Andrés was clearly moved to be there. For him, the astronomical observatory isn’t just another archaeological site. It’s a powerful reminder of his own indigenous ancestors. As the sun was beginning to set, we headed back to town, wondering what celebration might be awaiting us that night.

23/02/2015 4:54:32 PM

R.E.

» PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE

R.E.

CHICAMOCHA CANYON

Strapped to the front of a pilot’s harness and putting your faith in a total stranger

R.E.

GLIDING LIKE AN EAGLE OVER THE

winding mountain road led Team Outpost to a knoll where paragliders were landing and taking off with the frequency of a hopping regional airport. On all but one side, the Chicamocha Canyon dropped off far below.

For the non-initiated, a paraglider looks something like a parachute, though the design and materials of the canopy allow for far more lift and control. This mid-twentieth century invention (and tweaked over decades) actually shares more in common with its cousin, the delta-winged hang-glider, and enables the flimsy looking craft to stay in the air for a good long time. Chicamocha is one of many great paragliding spots in Colombia. In fact, with high mountains, deep canyons and great weather throughout the country, Colombia is one of the best places in the world to take the soaring plunge, whether as a veteran paragliding pilot, or a novice more interested in the tandem experience. No sooner had we arrived at the canyon than I was strapped to the front of a pilot’s harness like a baby being secured to his/her parent. As a paragliding newbie, I was forced to put my faith in the hands of a total stranger (I was sure to let him know that I have a three-year-old son—so you know, don’t kill me!). After a safety check, I was given instructions to run to the end of the hill, and, in no uncertain terms, not stop or raise my legs until we were airborne. Yet before I even had a chance to run, we were snatched from the ground by strong winds that lifted the fabric wing

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 68

up over our heads. I literally imagined myself as a mouse being carried off in the talons of a bird of prey. nce in flight, there was only the blissful sound of wind in my ears and my feet dangling over the void. Strangely, I felt no fear hurtling through space, suspended beneath the 10-metre-long wing by only a network of thin cables. Perhaps it was the remarkable views of the canyon that kept me calm. The sun shone brightly, save for a single lone cloud ahead that was dumping a perfectly isolated shower on the vast and stunning valley below. couldn’t be sure if we were in dynamic flight riding the winds coming up off the ridge—or if it was a thermal (a current which occurs when the sun warms the surface and sends heat rising) that gave us our lift. Apparently, skilled pilots can gain altitude using a thermal, then glide down to the next thermal zone, just to rise once again. However it was that our pilot kept us flying, it was pretty cool to cruise above the majestic Chicamocha Canyon for nearly half an hour. Then the pilot thought I might fancy a high-altitude motion-fest, and so swung the paraglider back and forth in flight. hat he didn’t realize is that ’d been feeling slightly queasy from the switchback mountain roads and the antimalarial meds I’d been taking for Team Outpost’s ourney to the mazon, our next destination. hen the blood departed my brain and my eyes started to cross, I decided it best to forgo my embarrassment and asked the pilot to take me home. Fortunately, like everyone we met in Colombia, he kindly obliged.

23/02/2015 4:55:07 PM

R.E.

» COLOMBIA’S FOOD CULTURE IS ON EVERY CORNER

CUISINE TO SATISFY ANY R.E.

FOODIE FAN

R.E.

» GETTING TO THE MEAT OF THE COCONUT

ood is one of those things we simply cannot live without—as fundamental to survival as oxygen and a heartbeat. That makes eating a universal phenomenon, whether it’s pancakes and maple syrup in Canada or fried ants in the Amazon. Before I even set foot in Colombia, I sensed it was a country of magnificent diversity, both culturally and geographically. One thing I somehow overlooked was the variety of the cuisine.

As it turns out, they are indeed a foodie culture! First of all, the region is a veritable fruit and vegetable basket, which helps explain why the food is so delicious. If I had to describe Colombian cuisine in one word, I’d call it hearty. By way of example, around Bogotá’s highlands, a creamy potato soup called Ajiaco is popular—made with chicken, various types of potatoes, cream, avocado, rice, and a corn on the cob stuck in for good measure. A typical plate found in and around Medellín includes red kidney beans, avocado, fried egg, rice, ground beef, fried plantain, pork sausages and a corn pastry called arepa. On Team Outpost’s travels, we had the chance to visit the famed Andres Carne de Res restaurant in the town of Chia. Beyond the surreal interior design (and even the surreal size: dining areas and five kitchens to keep , patrons fed , the assortment of meats presented to us would fulfill almost every carnivore’s food fantasies. Colombia, like much of South America, is big on carne, and while the needs of vegetarians aren’t always uppermost, it isn’t all doom and gloom for the non-meat eaters. In most places, we were able to order yucca, potato, patacones fried green plantains , rice, eggs and bread, along with cheese empanadas. Vegetarians could also gorge

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 69

» SAMPLING THE CUISINE OF VILLA DE LEYVA

R.E.

From fresh papaya and mango to the best ceviche on offer

themselves on fresh papayas, strawberries, mangos, passion fruit, and any other fruit and vegetable imaginable. Along the Caribbean Coast, dishes take on a spicier note, with fish, lobster and coconut rice being common fare. f course, where there is a coast, be it acific or Caribbean, there is also ceviche raw octopus, shrimp, and fish cooked in citrus juice. Food variety isn’t limited to Spanish, Indigenous or Caribbean styles, either (or the fusion of all three, as is so often the case in Colombia . wave of immigration from the Middle East began in the late 19th century, and with it naturally came culinary influences. h, the beauty of the global diaspora! All this food talk is suddenly making me thirsty. On the drink menu, Colombia covers the gamut, including hot chocolate made with local cacao (and sometimes with a piece of cheese tossed in , iced shakes made with milk or water and fresh fruit, and one of my favourites, agua de coco fresh coconut water , which fre uently bought from street vendors in Cartagena to rehydrate after a day in the sun. Colombia is also famous for its aguardiente, a potent sugarcane li uor, which can be made into Canelazo (served hot with boiled cinnamon water, raw cane sugar, and lime . And yes, I am coming to Colombia’s world-class Arabica coffee, much of which is grown in the Zona Cafetera west of Bogotá. Perfect mid-altitude mountains snuggled just north of the e uator make for some spectacular terroir. he coffee growing region is actually fed by the highest peaks in Colombia’s Central Mountain Range. Imagine pristine glacial waters in every cup of coffee. Now that’s worth waking up for.

23/02/2015 4:55:45 PM

R.J.B.

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 70

» A CANOPY WALK IN COLOMBIA’S AMAZON

R.E.

» CULTURAL EXCHANGES: A SHAMAN BLOWS TOBACCO

R.J.B.

R.E.

» RYAN EDWARDSON SNAPPING PHOTOS 20 METRES ABOVE THE GROUND

R.E.

» THE FACES OF THE AMAZON RAINFOREST

23/02/2015 4:56:35 PM

R.E.

AMAZING

From Winding Rivers to Unending Rainforest, an Ancient Lowland Wonderland

hen the Greek legend about a tribe of warriorlike women called “Amazons” first took shape, it was probably never imagined that millennia later, on a continent far far away, a Spanish conquistador would give the name and the myth a second life. Apparently, Francisco de Orellana got the inspiration to name the world’s largest river basin while doing battle (and losing) against an indigenous tribe near the great Amazon River, where the women fought fiercely alongside the men. The name just stuck.

regions anywhere on Earth. This helps explain why it’s one of the last places where uncontacted cultures still exist, and why there are hundreds of languages throughout the Amazon that are only spoken by a limited number of people. At daybreak, we hiked through the rainforest, where only about two percent of sunlight reaches the thriving floor. e arrived at a giant tree with ropes hanging like vines, were harnessed and given a quick lesson on how to use ascenders, a mechanical device that allows us to scale the rope without sliding down. Then we climbed through three of the rainforest’s four layers (each with its own amazing ecosystem) to the wooden platform 35 metres up. For the next hour, we were at play, crossing from tree to tree on swinging bridges and ziplines, watching out for any of the hundreds of species of birds, monkeys, butterflies and exotic wildflowers. final abseil brought us back to earth. n many ways, the mazon is difficult to grasp. glimpsed a stand of trees here, a spider there. But my eyes couldn’t begin to take in the planet’s largest rainforest, with its estimated 390 billion trees, 40,000 plant species, and 3,000 kinds of freshwater fish. ost astounding, , invertebrate species are thought to crawl, flutter, and dig here, too. As we boarded a boat to take us up the Amazon River, I could see Brazil and Peru across the way (Leticia is a border spot)—yet the jungle rolled on in every direction, without hesitation. In no other place do borders seem more arbitrary and artificial than here, where the rivers flow as they please and the animals move along the natural contours of this magnificent unbroken landscape. part of me will likely always remain in this breathtakingly beautiful place.

R.E.

Fast forward to now, and our (peaceful) Outpost team of inquiring minds made the two-hour journey by plane south from the temperate highlands of Bogotá to tropical Leticia, a port city in Colombia on the mazon iver. raffic sputtered and motorbikes were ubiquitous, though all roads ended just a few kilometres outside of town—in fact, the closest Colombian highway to Leticia is 800 kilometres away. Hence the crucial importance of the Amazon River for trade and transport. Around Leticia there’s plenty to do, without even venturing deep into the rainforest. We started with a 40-minute hike to a cultural centre run by an older local named Ramon. Dressed in traditional garb, he told us about the ancient worldviews and ritual practices of the Macuna people, traditions he admitted his children sadly have little interest in. His disappointment was palpable. He went on to discuss the cultural significance of the coca and tobacco leaf in Macuna cosmology—then, without further ado, blew ground tobacco up my nose through a thin pipe. I like to think of the experience in anthropological terms: it’s called “participant observation”! The Amazon Basin is one of those rare places with so much land yet so few people, making it one of the least populated

R.J.B.

AMAZONAS

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 71

23/02/2015 4:56:55 PM

INCREDIBLE

CARTAGENA

Where tropical sun and sea meet mysterious crackling forest

usk had begun to settle over the cobblestone streets of Cartagena, when the faint sound of African drums called out. Team Outpost followed the music until we arrived at Plaza Bolívar, where several barefoot men and women spun and danced around each other like courting birds.

On the sidelines, a man played a long woodwind instrument, while others pounded out complex rhythms on traditional drums and shakers. The musical texture and vocal harmonies reminded me of Afro-Cuban and Brazilian music, which isn’t surprising, given we were taking in mapalé, a coastal dance/ music style brought to South America with the African slaves. The shadow of human history runs long in these parts, from the first human settlers arriving here perhaps , years ago, to a 21st-century skyline of soaring glass towers. It was the Spanish who established Cartagena in 1533 and made it a centre for the lucrative trade in precious metals, like the gold we’d seen in Bogotá’s museums. The mapalé street performance was a reminder of the slave trade that helped run the mines and cane fields that once filled pain’s vast coffers. Cartagena was pillaged by French noblemen, held ransom by the English, and pretty much pestered by any pirate in the neighbourhood, prompting the Spanish to sink lots of money into its fortification and protection. ur visit to the th century Castillo San Felipe de Barajas revealed the lengths the Spanish went to protect their investment—just standing beneath the formidable fortress walls left me feeling humbled and intimidated. All these efforts in centuries past earned Cartagena’s colonial city and fortress a UNESCO World Heritage site designation in 1984. The mid-19th century saw famines and cholera outbreaks in the city, which set the stage for Love in the Time of Cholera, a beautiful novel written by Colombia’s most famous author, Gabriel García Márquez (affectionately known as “Gabo”). For those fascinated with the grandfather of magic-realism, walking tours are available to see locales here featured in his books, as well as Gabo’s house and the old newspaper office where he cut his teeth as a ournalist. If the old city walls are the container of Cartagena’s past, then perhaps what lies outside represents its future. The neighbourhood of Bocagrande features dense clusters of skyscrapers, beach resorts, and a thoroughly modern Miami-type vibe. t’s definitely a great place to walk the beach at sunset, or grab a pint at the local BBC pub (Bogotá Beer Company). As Cartagena has expanded, it has incorporated outlying communities into the fold, including the old fishing village of La Boquilla, which rests between the Caribbean Sea and sprawling mangrove. It’s here that Team Outpost set off in a canoe, while a local fisherman stood at the back, using a wooden pole to push off the ground in the shallow waters. Without a motor, we quietly glided through tunnels in dense mangroves that eventually brought us to a lake. Beneath open skies, we stood knee-deep in water and learned how to throw fishing nets and bait, and how to retrieve crab traps. ow that’s sustainable fishing, Caribbean style. After strolling the streets, following in Gabo’s ink-spotted steps, listening to music, soaking up the Caribbean sunshine, and standing in the old city’s long shadow, I can’t help but feel that if I was fortunate enough to return to Colombia, I’d find myself back in Cartagena doing it all over again.

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 72

23/02/2015 4:57:32 PM

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 73

R.E.

» CARTAGENA’S NIGHTS SHINE BRIGHT

R.E.

» OVERLOOKING CARTAGENA’S BOCAGRANDE NEIGHBOURHOOD

R.E.

» CRUISING MANGROVES OUTSIDE CARTAGENA

R.J.B.

» HOW TO THROW A NET IN BOQUILLA’S MANGROVE FORESTS

» STREET SCENES IN CARTAGENA’S CENTRO NEIGHBOURHOOD

R.E.

» CARTAGENA’S FAMED FORTIFIED WALLS

23/02/2015 4:58:04 PM

TAYRONA NATIONAL PARK, AND THE CARIBBEAN COLOMBIAN COASTLINE

» THE BEACHES OF TAYRONA ARE EASY ON THE EYE

R.J.B.

» » A BLISSFUL CAR-FREE STREET IN SANTA MARTA

uring my early days of travel, when I’d pack my bags and leave home for up to four months at a time, I’d sometimes find myself on a beautiful beach and decide to hang a shingle there for a week or so. The open horizon of the ocean has always resonated as a place of infinite possibility. Right now, if time were never (ever!) an object, Colombia’s Tayrona National Park would be the place I’d blissfully hang my hat in—just to listen to the ocean and the rustling palm trees.

Located about a five-hour drive north of Cartagena along the glorious Caribbean coast, the entrance to Tayrona is far away from the sound of the sea, and we hiked along rolling trails for 45 minutes until we arrived at the shore. It’s this lack of direct access that helps make Tayrona so special, its remoteness naturally limiting the number of people who pass through there each year. There are no multistory resorts beachside, and the park rangers and indigenous people who call these lands home also keep a close eye on activities that could disturb the ecosystem. The park itself is sandwiched between the Caribbean Sea and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range, which rises from sea level to a staggering 5,775 metres of altitude in just 46 kilometres. That makes it the highest coastal massif in the world. Did I mention it’s a UNESCO biosphere reserve and home to 53,000 indigenous people, who centuries before escaped the pillaging conquistadores? Now you know. Our day in Tayrona was spent meandering the paths linking the beaches, hanging out in the shade with our guide Andrés,

N104-Outpost_v17 -final.indd 74

R.J.B.

and cooling off in that incredible sea. The natural splendor was a feast for the eyes, with amazing rock formations and the tropical mountains rising above the trees behind us. Biodiversity is Tayrona’s middle name, with 770 species of plants, 31 kinds of reptiles, 108 species of mammals and 300 types of birds, including the military macaw and the lance-tailed manakin. If you stay up after dark, you may also be visited by some of the 70 species of bats that call the park home. I won’t even get into all the wildlife that thrives off Tayrona’s gorgeous shores. Some of Colombia’s best beaches lie along its 1,760-kilometre Caribbean coastline, including the hard to reach towns of Capurganá and Sapzurro in the Chocó department, right along the border with Panama (Colombia is divided into 32 departments, like states or provinces). There are dozens of islands off the coast of Cartagena as well, including the wildly popular Islas del Rosario, and the less travelled Islas de San Bernardo further south. The 1,300-km Pacific Coast is more rugged and humid than its Caribbean cousin, but (national) parks like Sanquianga provide plenty of opportunities to reach the beach. As we waded into the Caribbean Sea and hopped onto a boat to return us to the city of Santa Marta, I was truly saddened to leave Tayrona and its Jurassic Park-style wildness. I picture myself returning one day soon to spend more time wandering the hills and swinging in a hammock, soaking up those endless horizons that seem to spark my sense of wonder and imagination.

26/02/2015 12:33:16 PM

 By Air: ir Canada offers nonstop direct six hour flights from oronto to ogot , while other airlines offer regular service from most Canadian cities to Colombia via Houston and allas in exas, and from iami in Florida, among others. ome Canadian charter airlines also have direct service to coastal Cartagena, and to the island of an ndr s, km from the mainland.  By Land: lthough Colombia borders anama, razil, eru, enezuela and cuador, it only has land border crossings with the latter two countries. t this time, the Canadian overnment advises against entering or exiting Colombia overland due to security issues. f you choose not to follow this advice, ensure you have the latest and most up to date information for any route. nd never travel after dark.  By Water: ore cruise companies are now stopping in Colombia. n addition, there are riverboat connections between eticia in the mazon in the south and anaus, razil and uitos, eru. ikewise, there are sailboats and private charters that skirt the arien ap and offer passage between anama and Cartagena.

WEATHER & WHEN TO GO he weather varies considerably throughout Colombia. verall, pril and ctober receive the greatest amount of rain, while ecember to February sees the least.  Caribbean Coast: the best weather on Colombia’s Caribbean coast is between ecember and arch. he wettest time tends to be ctober.  Andes Mountains: the best time to explore Colombia’s ndes is ecember to arch and uly to ugust. uring the rainy seasons pril une, eptember ovember roads can often become impassable.  The Amazon: the mazon iver and its tributaries are at their lowest water levels from ugust to ctober, making it a great time to explore however, expect high humidity and occasional rains at any time.  Bogotá: the Colombian capital gets its heaviest rains in pril and ay, and eptember to ecember.

R.J.B.

» HIKING THE SUBLIME CHICAMOCHA CANYON

GETTING AROUND Colombia has a good network of roads and a number of national and intercity bus companies. However, as it’s a large country and many travellers have limited time and want to see sights scattered from the south to the north and beyond, the easiest way to get around is by flying. ll the main centres have airports, and domestic flights are fre uent, reliable and convenient.

R.E.

R.J.B.

GETTING THERE

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 75

23/02/2015 5:00:33 PM

» GALLOPING ALONG TAYRONA’S SHORES

R.J.B.

» BEACH DAY ON COLOMBIA’S CARIBBEAN COAST

R.E.

HEALTH Colombia has some of best medical care in all of South America, but it’s still advisable to consult a travel medicine professional before going. As Colombia ranges from jungle to mountain, cities to beaches, your health requirements will vary, depending on your in-country destination. Here are things to consider when planning your trip:  In the Highlands and Mountains: Bogotá sits at 2,640 metres above sea level, and many of Colombia’s Andean communities are higher. Anyone arriving from sea level, or even just lower altitudes, may experience altitude sickness, which can be combatted by drinking plenty of liquids, not undertaking strenuous activity for a few days after arrival, and avoiding excessive alcohol intake until you’ve acclimatized. Also, ask your travel medicine professional about altitude sickness before leaving home.  To the Jungle: Despite the abundance of water in most ungles, first time visitors are often surprised to learn they’re one of the easiest environments in which to succumb to dehydration. The intense heat and sapping humidity cause most people (particularly if engaging in activities such as trekking or canoeing) to perspire profusely, increasing the likelihood of dehydration. Whenever in a jungle or rainforest, always carry ample drinking water. Jungles are also home to many tropical microbes. Yellow fever, dengue fever, and malaria are all mosquito-borne illnesses. Visitors to the Amazon should not only dress appropriately (long sleeves and pants, solid shoe/boot, hat) and use mosquito nets at night, but also insect repellent with DEET. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention regard the likelihood of contracting malaria in Colombia as low, but still advise antimalarials if visiting the Amazon. These prophylactics, as well as inoculations against other diseases, should be done before travel.  Along the Coast: Colombia has two coasts: the 1,760-km Caribbean and the , km acific. oth offer beautiful beaches, though the country’s best resorts are found on the Caribbean. As with any beach stay, always be aware of the power of the sun—even more when you are closer to the equator. Wear sunblock, and when swimming or snorkelling it’s advisable to wear a rashguard or light shirt to avoid sunburns to your back or other exposed areas. Mosquitoes are present along both coasts, especially near mangrove swamps and forest, and standard precautions need to be taken against mosquito-borne diseases.  In the City: While the water in Bogotá, Cartagena, Medellín, Cali and most major centres is treated, it’s still recommended that all visitors throughout the country opt for bottled water and practice caution with unwashed/unpeeled raw fruits and vegetables, ice, and food from street vendors.

» THE COASTAL MOUNTAINS OF SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 76

R.J.B.

SAFETY Not so long ago, Colombia’s security situation ensured it was on most no-go travel lists. This has changed dramatically over the past decade. Today, Colombia—its cities in particular—is regarded as among the safest for visitors in all of Latin America. That said, all travellers should avoid exhibiting wealth, always be aware of their surroundings (especially at night) and take precautions against pickpockets.

23/02/2015 5:01:48 PM

ISTOCKPHOTO/GARY C TOGNONI/ R.J.B.

FESTIVALS OF COLOMBIA

Between religious festivals, arts and music celebrations, folk displays, fairs, parades and just great parties, there is always something going on somewhere in Colombia. Here’s the lowdown on some of the biggest and best festivals, though confirm all dates before making plans as calendars and schedules can be annually flexible. Festivals are categorized monthly by their start date.

R.E.

JANUARY  Carnival of Blacks and Whites, in Pasto. Originally an ancient celebration of the Pasto and Quillacinga Indians, in honour of the moon goddess to protect their crops, today’s carnival incorporates Spanish traditions and elements from African feasts to create a truly multicultural celebration.  The Riosucio Carnival in Riosucio. The Carnaval del Diablo (Devil’s Carnival) takes place every other year and is Colombia’s longest annual festival, starting in July and ending the following January, with a carnival of dancing, poetry, music and parades.  The Manizales Fair, in Manizales. An annual fair in coffee country, world-renowned for its bullfighting.  The Hay Festival in Cartagena. An international literary, film, journalism, art and music festival. FEBRUARY-MARCH  The Barranquilla Carnival, in Barranquilla. A UNESCO-recognized cultural and folkloric event. Described as a multicultural fusion of European, African and Amerindian traditions that include dancing, music and other festivities.  The International Film Festival of Cartagena. Latin America’s only Ibero-American film festival. A must-participate for film and culture buffs.  Holy Week (Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday). A countrywide celebration that includes processions, parades, an International Festival of Sacred Choral Music (in Pamplona), the Festival of Religious Music (in Popayan), and many other events.

JUNE  Wayuu Culture Festival in Uribia. A celebration of the enormous cultural wealth of the indigenous Wayuu people that includes traditional music, rituals, customs and handicrafts.  Bambuco National Folk Festival and Beauty Pageant: The Return to Andean Roots, in Neiva. Described as showcasing the typical rhythm of the Colombian Andes, a festival that celebrates the bambuco and includes parades, dancing, music and other events.  Yipao Parade and Contest in Calarca. A unique coffee folklore celebration in a small coffee town.  The Ibague Folk Festival: Cradle of Musical Culture. Ibague is known as the musical city of Colombia, and this event celebrates that heritage with an annual folk festival that sees plazas, parks and squares transformed into stages.  The Joropo International Tournament, in Villavicencio. Considered the most important folk event in the plains of Colombia and Venezuela. Food, art shows, music, dancing and competitions (bull pulling) are included. JULY  Colombiamoda, in Medellín, Colombia’s most important fashion event! AUGUST  The Bandola de Sevilla Festival, in Sevilla. A fantastic festival of Colombian folk music.

 Medellin Flower Fair. Medellin is sometimes known as the City of Eternal Spring, and as it blooms in colour it hosts a 10-day celebration with more than 140 cultural events.  Petronio Alvarez Festival, in Cali. Colombia’s largest celebration of Afro-Colombian folklore and culture.  Wind and Kite Festival, in Villa de Leyva. Strong winds and clear skies play host to thousands of professional and amateur kite builders and flyers! SEPTEMBER  Manizales Theatre Festival. Close to 50 national and international theatre groups gather in Manizales every year to celebrate performance.  Jazz in the Park, Bogotá. The Colombian capital’s world-famous jazz festival.  San Pacho Feasts, in Quibdo. A four-week celebration of the Choco department’s patron saint, Saint Francis of Assisi, complete with parades and feasts. OCTOBER  World Coleo Encounter, in Villavicencio. One of the world’s most important cowboy events, with demonstrations and competitions. NOVEMBER  Independence of Cartagena, marked with parades and music, and culminates with the selection of “Miss Colombia.”  International Amazonian Folk Music Festival, in Leticia. DECEMBER  Festival of the Lights, Villa de Leyva. The best fireworks in all of Colombia!  The Cali Fair. What better way to spend the time between Christmas and New Years than with parades, bullfights, salsa, concerts, dances and great food?

R.J.B.

APRIL-MAY  The Ibero-American Theatre Festival, in Bogotá. One of the largest performing arts festivals in the world.  The Bogotá International Book Fair. One of the largest and most important literary events in the world—just a great time to travel to Colombia!  Festival of the Vallenato Legend in Valledupar.

A showcase for the traditional regional music of northeastern Valledupar, this is now one of Colombia’s most important music and folk festivals, featuring parades, shows, contests and fantastic local music.  The Mono Nunez Festival, in Ginebra. If you love Andean folk music this is a must-go—billed as the most important annual music event in the Colombian Andes.

N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 77

23/02/2015 5:14:39 PM

COLOMBIA, SOUTH AMERICA

Natural Tayrona Cartagena Barú

TIME: UTC/GMT –5 HOURS

(same time zone as Eastern Time in Canada, with some exceptions for Daylight Saving Time).

POPULATION:

approx. 46,300,000

b rib

oa C n

CAPITAL: Bogotá GEOGRAPHY:

Medellín

lain dP

lan

ss Gra

COLOMBIA t res

fo ain nR

M de s

ECUADOR

Colombia uses the Colombian peso (COP), which is approximately 2,000 COP to the Canadian dollar. While credit cards are accepted at most major hotels and ATMs are widely available in cities and larger towns, once away from the beaten track, cash rules.

PERU

N104-Outpost_v17.indd 78

Bogotá Bogot

azo

Spanish is the official language of Colombia. English is also an official language on San Andrés, Providence and Santa Catalina, its islands in the Caribbean.

CURRENCY

Villa de Leyva

ifi

Pa c

LANGUAGE

VENEZUELA

Parque Nacional Del Chicamocha (Panachi)

DOCUMENTATION

Canadian passport holders visiting Colombia as tourists do not require a visa and will be permitted to stay for up to 90 days.

BRAZIL

CANADIAN GOVERNMENT IN COLOMBIA Embassy of Canada:

Address: Cra. 7, No. 114-33, Piso 14, Bogotá Phone in-country: 57 (1) 657 9800 Email: bgota@international.gc.ca

CONSULATE OF CANADA:

Address: Edificio Centro Ejecutivo Bocagrande, Carrera 3, No. 8-129, Oficina No. 1103, Cartagena Phone in-country: 57 (5) 665 5838 Email: consuladocanada@une.net.co

Leticia Tabatinga

TEXT BY SIMON VAUGHAN; ILLUSTRATION BY SERGIO D. SPADAVECCHIA

ain

Ra n

Cali

Los Nevados National Park

cC oa

Colombia is situated in northwestern South America, and is bordered to the north by Panama and the Caribbean Sea; by Venezuela to the east and Brazil to the southeast; Ecuador to the southwest and Peru to the south; and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Its approximately 1,142 million sq. km is defined by stunning coastlines, temperate highlands, the Andes Mountains, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountain Range, and the tropical lowlands of the Amazon Basin.

24/02/2015 10:13:53 AM