they are getting that opportunity. Yet a lot of them just learn as they go, carrying that 25-kilo load up through the Icefall, climbing up the ice face and, well, thatâs a pretty dangerous way to learn. But look, there have been mounting tensions; there was the event last year, which was lamentable on both sides. I know a lot of people have taken the Sherpaâs side, but I donât think itâs satisfactory that 100 Sherpa tried to beat up three guys. T Iâm happy to hear that. One of my good friends was involved. P Oh really? T Jon Griffith. P And what did he say? T He knew it wasnât directed directly at them per se. It was a much bigger issue and thatâs kind of the way it came out. P Because you know, to be honest, I have enormous respect for them; I mean those three are extraordinary mountaineers. Uli Steck went on and did one of the great climbs of the decade on Annapurna. You can imagine maybe they were being a little bit arrogant. But, as Iâve said to people, at altitude, everyone is a bit tight, your emotions are near the edge and so someone snaps and says something and someone else says something and it just ratchets up into even greater stupidity and you get this ugliness, which is not a feature of Nepali and foreign climber relationships. So, itâs really sad, but then we had
this avalanche and the reality is if they keep going up and down the icefall it is a watertight guarantee it will happen again and again. T Do you see anything changing in the future? Like the Nanda Devi sanctuary where a time is set aside for the mountain to rest? P Look, youâd find the Nepalese would lose all their livelihoods and so on. T Which is what happened in that case⊠P Thatâs right, but to an even greater extent I would like to see pressure from the Nepalese government; itâs about time they stood up and said, âYou know what? We need to make some decisions here. These guys should have better insurance.â You canât just blame the foreigners, they are paying the insurance they are told to pay. If it should be more, you make them pay more. Now, how do we stop it happening again? Youâve got to do something different, and itâs where mountaineering knowledge needs to come in. You canât just rely on bureaucrats in Kathmandu; they havenât got any idea. So, the reality is the icefall doctors, in some respects, I think theyâve been making a mistake. T Going too far to the left? P Itâs easier ground on those avalanche fans for sure, we all know that but⊠T Youâve got that hanging above you⊠P So, itâs a ticking time bomb and it happened. Everyone told me that if it had happened 20 minutes earlier it would
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have been much worse; it could have been 60. Most of them had gone through. I think the first step is moving back more to the center, which is what we used to do. If an accident happens there a serac can come down. Sure, it may kill two or three people but it wonât be 16 or 35. This is a dangerous place and we have to look at the options. Again, the Nepalese government has to give people permission to try it out. Maybe put up a rope for gear and equipment to be taken up onto the Lhotse, you know the end. Are you familiar with that place? T Yes. I havenât climbed Everest or even been to base camp, but Iâve been to Island Peak. P Then you know the area, the western end of Nuptse. It appears you could get something on that and then around. They need to explore that. There are plenty of very experienced climbers, both Nepali and foreign, who could take the lead. Politicians donât have to do it, they can put some money into it and say, âListen, you guys go, weâll support you.â But thatâs the problem there, as youâve
Itâs hard to be cool, calm, collected and totally rational. I just had this strong feeling it didnât gel.
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