Foodservice Monthly by Silver Communications

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Vol. 18, No. 4 â&#x2013; August/September 2019

After 17 Wonderful Years... Foodservice Monthly Says Goodbye

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insidefsm Volume 18, No. 4

foodservicemonthly Volume 18, No. 4 ■ August/September 2019 Silver Communications Publisher

August/September 2019

Lisa Keathley Managing Editor lisafoodmag@gmail.com Lisa Silber Sales Manager lisa@foodservicemonthly.com Electronic Ink Design & Production fsm@eink.net

News & Information

Columns

Advertiser Index …………………………………………………………………… 8 Association News RAMW by Kathy Hollinger ……………………………… 4

Balti-MORE by Dara Bunjon………………………………………………………19 Bob Brown Says by Bob Brown ………………………………………………… 2 Culinary Correspondent by Celeste McCall ………………………………… 6 Food Smarts by Juliet Bodinetz …………………………………………………17 Insurance...Plus! by Sal DiPietro ……………………………………………… 3 Local Cooks by Alexandra Greeley …………………………………………… 7 Modern Business Solutions by Henry Pertman …………………………… 8 My Take by Michael Sternberg ………………………………………………… 9 The Latest Dish by Linda Roth ………………………………………………… 5 Whining ’n Dining by Randi Rom ………………………………………………20

In the Spotlight

After 17 Wonderful Years... Foodservice Monthly Says Goodbye ……………………………………………10

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The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

Contributing Writers Kathy Hollinger Linda Roth Susan Jones Tim Sughrue Celeste McCall Eric Terry Henry Pertman Marshall Weston Randi Rom Contact phone: 703-471-7339 email: lisa@foodservicemonthly.com fax: 866-961-4980 web: www.foodservicemonthly.com

Juliet Bodinetz Bob Brown Dara Bunjon Michael Gabriel Alexandra Greeley

Foodservice Monthly, a division of Silver Communications, Corp., is owned and published by Silver Communications, Corp. The Foodservice Monthly mission is to provide Mid-Atlantic foodservice professionals with news and information in an informed, imaginative and insightful newsmagazine. Foodservice Monthly assumes no responsibility for material submitted to us. All information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part or transmitted in any form without prior permission from the publisher of Foodservice Monthly.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 1

BOB BROWN SAYS | Bob Brown

21 Tips to Turn Your Staff into Sales Champions 17. Appeal to a sense of value. When patrons are on the fence about ordering a glass or bottle of vino, say, “It’s a good value to share the bottle.”

It takes a lot of knowledge, skill, awareness, and creativity to be a topflight server. Below are 21 insights to get you to the winner’s circle. 1. Know your menu inside out. Boost your confidence. Know everything about each dish: the story, preparation, cooking method, sauce, accompaniments, glossary terms, and allergens. This ensures you’re on a level playing field with the Food Network and Fine Living crowd. 2. Don’t pre-judge. Don’t be surprised by the verbal tip from Mr. Nice Guy and a pot of gold from a nasty guest. Lousy tips are self-fulfilling prophesies for servers who pre-judge. 3. Be a meal designer. Maximize sales by having a planned approach to serving economizers, faithful regulars, diners, and jackpot tables. 4. Watch your table like a hawk, but don’t hover. Be the stealth waiter. 5. Be okay with silence. If you suggest an appetizer and get a blank look, relax. Guests are taking in the information. 6. Assist guests everywhere. Everyone is a potential lifetime guest. 7. Personalize hellos. “Mr. and Ms. Henley, welcome to Prime 68. Thanks for choosing us to celebrate your first anniversary.” Avoid, “Hi I’m Bob, can I get you a drink?”

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18. Read and respond to non-verbal cues. Most guests tell us what they want with their body language, not their words. 19. Find the leader-buyer. Stand across from the head honcho. She’s your assistant salesperson who influences the buying habits of her fellow guests.

8. The more you clear, the more you sell. Dirty tables make guests feel full. Guests buy more if their tables are well maintained. 9. Practice your presentations. When you’re fluent with your menu, guests relax. Sound natural, not rehearsed and robotic. 10. Get it right, write it down. Guests stress when they think you’ll forget their sauce on the side, so write down or repeat their special requests. 11. Use brain stickers. “Our bartender, Albert from Albuquerque, makes an excellent Gray Goose Martini.” Name brands and places awaken and help patrons remember. 12. Don’t leave guests alone with the menu too long. Guests can be their own worst enemies. They’ll

order safe and less. Combine drink suggestions with a brief menu tour. 13. Touch the table. Move the salt and pepper and adjust the flowers. It’s a powerful way to connect and say, “I care.” 14. Avoid “May I?” “Can I?” “Would you?” Say instead, “We feature,” “We offer,” and “By the way, I recommend.” Don’t ask, suggest. 15. Open with benefits. “Ladies and gentlemen, please allow me a few moments to tell you about four great things on our menu.” Guests are more open to listening when they know you’ll be brief and helpful. 16. When delivering plates, use the airplane landing, not the helicopter plop. Technical excellence is the key to seamless service.

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20. Use: “And for the table, I recommend sharing…” Guests buy if they know they’re splitting the expense and sharing and celebrating. 21. Adapt your goodbye to the guest demographic. Send an Instagram to the millennials with you holding a card saying: “Steven and Jill, thanks for dining with us.” BOB BROWN, president of Bob Brown Service Solutions, www.bobbrownss.com, pioneered Marriott’s Service Excellence Program. He has worked with a wide range of clients, including Disney, RitzCarlton, Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Viceroy, Four Seasons, and Nordstrom, as well as internationally with such prestigious hotels as the Burj Al Arab in Dubai. He has appeared on the Food Network and is author of the bestselling The Little Brown Book of Restaurant Success, which has sold over 100,000 copies. He was rated the #1 presenter at the National Restaurant Association Show in 2017 and 2018. ©Bob Brown Service Solutions 2019.

foodservicemonthly

Insurance...Plus! | Sal DiPietro

Contractual Risk Transfer What Does it Mean and Why it’s Important to You If you’re like most business owners, you care deeply about three things: your employees, your customers, and your profit. As a restaurateur, focusing on the quality of your food product, combined with creating a positive customer experience, is a longstanding proven recipe for success. Filling the house with satisfied guests on those mid-week nights is a sure way to improve the bottom line. It virtually guarantees your long-term viability in the ever changing and fickle world of hospitality. While negotiating with your purveyors on cost structure for the best and freshest ingredients helps ensure profitability and creates a memorable guest experience, have you considered the effectiveness and impact of deploying the technique of Contractual Risk Transfer? If properly executed, it can protect your bottom line from unexpected direct and indirect expenses, including reputational damage.

What is Contractual Risk Transfer? Simply put, it is a risk management technique where risk shifts from one party to another via contract. The most common example is an insurance policy, which at its core, is a contract between two parties. It transfers the risk of loss and uncertainty from one party to another in exchange for a premium. There are, however, other more sophisticated, multi-layered forms of Contractual Risk Transfer that are very effective in achieving your primary mission — delivering a quality product and creating a positive customer experience.

Beyond Traditional Insurance So, what else can be done and how will it help with your primary foodservicemonthly

mission? Establishing a contractual relationship with third parties that mandates insurance as a funding mechanism for the created obligations insulates your operation further from risk — financial and otherwise. Let’s take a look at a few real-life examples and the recommendations on what you can do to protect yourself, your guests, and your employees.

Case Study 1: A high-profile white tablecloth restaurant hires an outside valet company to handle guest parking at a congested urban location. On the face of it, it seems like a reasonable proposition, usual and customary for an upscale restaurant. A deal is struck with a seemingly reputable valet operator, who provides services for a few other quality restaurants across town. Everything is going along just fine until one night, when an attendant does some damage to a late model luxury vehicle...but fails to bring it to anyone’s attention. The long-time loyal patron notices the damage the next day and calls the restaurant to report the incident. It turns out that the valet operator’s insurance lapsed, and there was no formal agreement between the parties. After some back and forth finger-pointing, the guest becomes frustrated and holds you responsible, despite the waiver of damage fine print on the ticket. In an effort to salvage the relationship, you make a business decision and pay for the damage out of pocket.

Recommendation: Have a written contract transferring the risk of damage to customers’ vehicles back to the valet operator, funding their obligation with the appropriate insurance mechanism, along with a notification provision in the event of cancellation. Had a proper more prudent procedure been followed, the valet’s insurance would have more quickly satisfied the guest

and protected against an unnecessary expense to the restaurant.

Case Study 2: The used commercial-grade dishwashing machine you bought from the supply depot breaks down the day before a holiday weekend. Not wanting to get backed up, you call your regular appliance repair vendor, who is unable to send someone out in time. One of your employees knows someone who freelances and comes out to get the dishwasher up and running. Later in the day, an unfortunate incident occurs — your employee gets shocked and is sent to the hospital. You report the incident to your workers’ comp carrier to handle the claim. It’s a pretty significant payout, and your experience mod increases, causing premiums to skyrocket. Your insurer seeks reimbursement from the at-fault party, only to learn there is no agreement between the parties and no current insurance in place.

Recommendation: Having a written agreement between the parties, including proof of appropriate liability insurance, if even only in “work order” format, is a likely solution. Set up an internal procedure to secure a Certificates of Insurance (COI) from all contractors prior to commencing any work on your behalf. Had this been the case, your workers’ comp carrier would have successfully sought reimbursement from the “at-fault” party, and ultimately, a revised experience mod would have been calculated returning the surcharged premium for up to the last three years.

Case Study 3: The Department of Health contacts you and advises that several patrons have reported becoming ill after consuming food at your restaurant. Simultaneously, you receive a

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

“representation” letter from an attorney holding you accountable for the injuries suffered by multiple patrons. Concerned over the obvious consequences, you, among other things, report the matter to your liability insurer. The insurer helps investigate and determines the likely source of the problem: eggs supplied by a family-run small local farm. Unfortunately, the farm didn’t follow proper safe handling practices and appears to be liable. The problem is, as you might by now suspect, the farm didn’t carry product liability insurance, and your carrier is on the hook for the full damages.

Recommendation: Again, a solution involves a written agreement between the parties, requiring that the farmer indemnify you for costs incurred in the event of a loss, including a provision funding the obligation with product liability insurance naming you as an additional insured. Under that scenario, you would have been protected by the farmer’s insurer and insulated yourself from any costs incurred, including potential premium increases from your own insurer. By now, you can see the benefits of properly protecting your operation by using well-designed Contractual Risk Transfer practices. In each example, the technique would have addressed what is most important to you: your employees, your customers, and your profits. With a little attention and perhaps some guidance from your broker or insurer, you can protect your brand and your bottom line from the unexpected. SAL DI PIETRO, CPCU, is a Property & Casualty insurance expert with over 25 years’ experience as Executive Vice President for Diversified Insurance Industries, a Baltimore based full-service insurance brokerage. Connect with Sal on LinkedIn or directly at sal.dipietro@dii-ins.com or 410-319-0672.

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ASSOCIATION NEWS RAMW | Kathy E. Hollinger

RAMMY Night — A Gala Affair Once Again!

David Claypool

Ana Isabel Photography

(l to r) RAMMY Chef of the Year Kyle Bailey of the Salt Line, RAMW CEO Kathy Hollinger, and Rising Culinary Star of the Year Kwame Onwuachi of Kith/Kin For nearly four decades, we’ve come together at The RAMMYS to recognize an industry of hardworking, hospitality-driven, creative, locally minded leaders. This year’s awards gala and celebration, held on June 30th, was a night where we toasted those in the front and back of the house, as well as the multifaceted community of entrepreneurs, operators, and foodservice professionals who continue to make our Washington, D.C. area a premiere dining destination. With as much growth as we have seen over the past 10, 20, and 30 years, it is fantastic to see that so much of what works and gives us our unique market character remains the same. We continue to be a diverse community of leaders made up of an impressive 96 percent locally owned and operated businesses. Over 2,500 foodservice industry professionals and their friends and fans gathered at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center for the 37th Annual RAMMY Awards as Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) announced winners in 20 award categories and many special honors. The selection process for the 4 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

winners involved two esteemed groups, the voting public and an anonymous panel of volunteer judges, consisting of food and dining journalists, educators, and foodservice industry professionals. The voting public decided the winners in four categories: Favorite Gathering Place, Upscale Brunch, Casual Brunch, and Favorite Fast Bites.

Special honors RAMW honored The Veritas Law Firm with the Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year award, given for exemplifying commitment to and support of RAMW, especially as Veritas worked so hard last year on Initiative 77. The Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award was presented to restaurateur Virginia Ali of Ben’s Chili Bowl/Ben’s Chili Bowl Foundation for her hard work and outstanding initiative that has increased the profile and success of the metropolitan Washington foodservice community. These awards were determined by RAMW’s Executive Committee. The 2019 Honorary Milestone RAMMY Award was presented by the Golden Triangle Business

Improvement District and given to The Bombay Club (30 years), Ristorante i Ricchi (30 years), Moby Dick House of Kabob (30 years), Silver Diner (30 years), Taberna del Alabardero (30 years), and Lebanese Taverna (40 years) — all dining staples celebrating 30 and 40 years and serving locals and visitors in metropolitan Washington.

A renamed award Mayor Muriel Bowser of the District of Columbia joined the presentation to remember and honor John G. Laytham, co-owner of the Clyde’s Restaurant Group, who passed away earlier this year. Mayor Bowser announced that November 12th will be named John Laytham Day in the District. The first John Laytham Day will be held on what would have been the industry leader’s 75th birthday. In addition, RAMW honored Laytham’s legacy by renaming a RAMMY Award in his name — the John G. Laytham Exceptional Leadership and Impact Award. This award was first given to José Andrés in 2018 for his humanitarian leadership efforts on a global scale. It was awarded at The RAMMYS this year to Claude Andersen of the Clyde’s Restaurant Group for his incredible dedication carrying out John Laytham’s vision for more than 45 years and as a leader in areas of culinary and hospitality education and workforce development over many decades.

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The winners of the 37th Annual RAMMY Awards are: Joan Hisaoka Allied Member of the Year: The Veritas Law Firm Upscale Brunch of the Year: Unconventional Diner Casual Brunch of the Year: Compass Rose Bar & Kitchen Favorite Gathering Place of the Year: Open Road Favorite Fast Bites of the Year: Taco Bamba Taqueria Service Program of the Year: Ambar - Clarendon Beer Program of the Year: Republic Cocktail Program of the Year: barmini by José Andrés Wine Program of the Year: Maxwell Park Casual Restaurant of the Year: Royal Employee of the Year: Valentine King, Hummingbird Bar and Kitchen Manager of the Year: Donna Seal, Oceanaire Regional Food and Beverage Producer of the Year: Ivy City Smokehouse Formal Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year: The Source by Wolfgang Puck

ASSOCIATION RAMW NEWS cont. page 16 foodservicemonthly

THE LATEST DISH | Linda Roth

Last Call for The Latest Dish Eric and Ian Hilton will open Café Colline, featuring French fare, in the Lee Heights Shops in Arlington at 4536 Lee Highway, where Cassatt’s Kiwi Café used to be. Chef Brendan L’Etoile will develop the menu for the 50-seat restaurant, as he has done for their Chez Billy Sud French bistro in Georgetown. A Q4 2019 opening is targeted. David Nammour will open another Muncheez, this time in Dupont Circle at 1317 Connecticut Avenue, NW, where DGS Delicatessen used to be. His father, Bechara, owned the now closed Paolo’s and J. Paul’s in Georgetown. Georgia Brown’s is still alive & kickin’. Restaurateur Hakan Ilhan is extensively renovating the former Morton’s Steakhouse space on Prospect Street, NW in Georgetown. There will be a second non-streetside

patio, in addition to the one along Prospect Street, as well as glass wine cellars with over 1000 bottles of wine.

Chef & GM updates… Erik Bruner-Yang, of Brothers & Sisters and Spoken English fame, was named executive chef, and Andy Hooper was named president and COO of &pizza. Andy was chief people officer at Café Rio Mexican Grill. Living Kuller, a new restaurant group by Max Kuller, plans to open 35-seat Oyster Oyster in Shaw at 1440 8th Street, NW in Q3 2019. Living Kuller is a name chosen to honor Max’s father, Mark. Max’s partners are former Hazel chef Rob Rubba and Adam Bernbach from 2 Birds, 1 Stone. In the spirit (pun intended) of sustainability, Adam plans to sell

organic or biodynamic wines and herbal cocktails that integrate kitchen scraps. Mission Group partners Fritz Brogan and Reed Landry will take over the space where James Hoban’s has been for the past 12 years at Dupont Circle. They plan to renovate and reopen it as The Admiral, an American restaurant and bar with significant private event space inside and outside. They currently own Mission restaurants at Dupont and at Nationals Park, as well as Hawthorne on U Street, NW. The Admiral is named after Admiral Samuel Francis Du Pont, as in Dupont Circle. The plan is to start renovations in midsummer and open in Q4 2019. Atlanta-based Southern Proper Hospitality plans to open Gypsy Kitchen on the 14th Street corridor where Masa 14 has been for 10 years

46th Annual

— 1825 14th Street, NW. Operated by Richard Sandoval Hospitality, it will feature a small plates menu of Indian, North African, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean cuisines. The goal is to open in Q2 2020. Alex Curley, COO of Southern Proper, has local roots here, as he was the local operations director for Richard Sandoval Restaurants and opened the two locations of Barcelona Wine Bar for the Barteca Restaurant Group. Makan, a Malaysian restaurant, will open where Meridian Pint was in Columbia Heights. Chef/partner James Wozniuk, worked for Erik Bruner-Yang’s Maketto and then Spoken English. Kendrick Wu is his partner. The name, Makan, means “to eat” in Malaysian. Reston-based Thompson Hospitality

THE LATEST DISH cont. page 16

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 5

CULINARY CORRESPONDENT | Celeste McCall

A Welcome to the Table for Refugee Chefs Deb Lindsey

Assylum-seeker Mary Apollo, of South Sudan, helped prepare a five-course meal at A Rake’s Progress, including a lovely dessert

Foodservice Monthly posed questions to Sam Sgroi, co-founder of Tables Without Borders: FSM: Do you plan to have the refugee chef dinners again?

FSM: Advice for other restaurants interested in joining the effort?

Sgroi: We are definitely planning to host similar dinners again. We’re talking to several restaurants but do not have confirmed dates or restaurants at this point.

Sgroi: Get in touch with us! In the inaugural series, the refugee chefs benefitted greatly from the help of local chefs and food professionals in menu creation, recipe testing, etc. There are always ways the food industry can help emerging refugee professionals.

FSM: How successful was your inaugural program? How much did it raise for HIAS? Sgroi: Hugely successful. We raised close to $20,000 (before expenses) for HIAS. That includes our own fundraising, as well as the percentage donated by restaurants and diners at the events.

s our nation’s immigration policies and the U.S.-Mexico border crisis are ever in the news, culinary organizations are stepping up to the plate. Many such groups are providing assistance to people fleeing violence and poverty in their home countries. Earlier this summer, Sam Sgroi and Sara Abdel-Rahim organized Tables Without Borders, a local non-profit dinner series showcasing refugee and asylum-seeker chefs. They launched their inaugural dinners during World Refugee Week. Five D.C. restaurants each welcomed a refugee chef/partner, raising money for HIAS — Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society — a global leader in refugee resettlement and advocacy. A Rake’s Progress hosted asylumseeker Mary from South Sudan who learned to cook via social media from her mother back home. She teamed up with chef Patrick Crooks (AKA chef Opie) to prepare a fivecourse repast. Espita Mezcalaria welcomed Maria, who prepared Salvadoran style tortillas. Hurriyet 6 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

FSM: How are the [inaugural] refugee chefs doing?

and Madina, Uyghur refugees from China, crafted savory meat pastries, steamed dumplings, and much more at Himitsu. Qamar from Syria cooked at Little Sesame, whipping up kabobs, basmati rice, and freerange chicken. Maydan invited Nejat, who contributed Afghan-style kabobs marinated in “secret spices” and Kabuli pulao, the national Afghan dish — a montage of rice, raisins, carrots, and lamb. Tables Without Borders cofounders Sgroi and Abdel-Rahim met in a study abroad program in Amman in 2015. Both were moved by the challenges faced by more than 700,000 Syrian refugees in the Jordanian capital. Back in the United States, Sam helped resettle refugees in the New Orleans area, while Sara,

Sgroi: Several exciting opportunities have come out of our events. One [restaurant group] has expressed interest in interviewing all the chefs. We’re currently finalizing their resumes and will be moving forward soon.

FSM: How else can restaurants/ food professionals help? Sgroi: Again, we’re planning future events. If restaurants are interested, we’d love to talk to them! Also, if you are involved in staffing, get in touch with us. We’re looking to help restaurants access the talents of refugee chefs while helping them find jobs in the industry FSM: Would you agree that the quality and diversity of restaurant menus in the United States has improved and gotten much more interesting thanks to immigrants? Sgroi: Absolutely!

a 2017 Fulbright Scholar in Athens, researched ways to integrate refugees into the Greek education system. From these experiences, Tables Without Borders was born. Fortunately, Sam and Sara are not alone in their endeavors. Other organizations around the country are launching similar efforts to help immigrants establish meaningful, productive lives while celebrating their homeland cuisines. One such group is League of Kitchens, founded by Washington D.C.’s

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Lisa Gross. Her organization provides cooking classes and food tours led by immigrant women. For more information on helping refugee chefs, visit https://act. hias.org/page/10276/donate/1. To reach Tables Without Borders, call 703-509-1559 or email tableswithborders@gmail.com. CELESTE MCCALL is a Washington, D.C.based freelance food and travel writer. Contact her at 202-547-5024 or by email at cmccall20003@gmail.com. foodservicemonthly

LOCAL COOKS | Alexandra Greeley

Profile: Janet Yu As she ends her second year as president of Les Dames d’Escoffier’s D.C. chapter, Janet Yu mused that she has spent her entire lifetime in the food world. As owner/chef for the classic Cantonese restaurant Hollywood East in Wheaton, Md., she proudly honors her family’s dedication to preparing and serving elegant eats.

From the age of six… “My parents owned a restaurant in Silver Spring called China Royal,” she recalled, “And I started working there when I was six years old.” Her family lived in Washington, D.C., and her mother would drive Yu and her siblings to the restaurant after school. “We were all required to work there,” she said. “I remember standing on crates and washing dishes.” Yu recalls that her family shifted her when she was 11 or 12 years old from washing dishes to working as a line cook, learning to prepare simple dishes that a youngster could handle. From line cook, Yu was transferred to waitressing, and by the time she entered college, she vowed she would never work in the restaurant world again.

After college… Yu stepped away from the kitchen and worked in marketing for several decades. But during those years, she and her sister Sue opened a Chinese pastry shop called China Royal Bakery in Silver Spring. “We were making cookies, egg custards, fruit and nut cakes, cream cake rolls, and wife cakes,” she said. “So my grandfather and a great uncle came down from New York and taught us what we needed to know.” Yu and foodservicemonthly

Hollywood East Café 11160 Viers Mill Rd., Wheaton, MD. Phone: (240) 290-9988; (301) 942-8282. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m to 9:30 p.m. https://www.hollywoodeastcafe.com

her sister carried on with the bakery for a few years, but they ended up selling the business for personal reasons, and Yu continued working in the marketing field. Finally, she decided to do a business on her own. At the same time, her husband and a friend wanted to open a very small restaurant seating about 60 patrons. Without prior restaurant experience, the partners failed…until Yu stepped up after four months. “I said I will come in because this is not working,” she told them. “Let me run it the way I would like to run it because I have had restaurant experience my whole life.”

location, currently in Westfield Wheaton Mall. “Here we are 20 years later,” she said. “I am very blessed to get through all the stages of life and get something done. It has been very good, and I now have two sons who work with me.” She added that her chefs come from China, plus several

Latino prep people who started with her years ago and still work for her. “I have been very lucky. My staff has been with me a long time. It is like one family when we are working together,” she said. ALEXANDRA GREELEY has more than 25 years of experience as an author, editor, reporter, food critic, staff writer, and freelance writer and editor, both in the United States and Asia. She is author or co-author of several cookbooks, including The Everything Guide to Being Vegetarian, Asian Soups, Stews, & Curries, Nong’s Thai Kitchen, and Homestyle Vietnamese Cooking.

Great reviews In the late 1990s, Yu and her husband started to build what has become a Chinese restaurant hub, thanks to numerous reviews and write-ups in local newspapers. “At that time,” she said, “I didn’t know anything about reviews, but we got really, really busy. I had gotten a call from the Post to come and take pictures of some of the dishes, and they said I could expect a lot of business.” When the Post’s review came out, she said, the restaurant was slammed. Eventually, it drew such crowds that Yu and her husband decided to move to a much larger The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 7

MODERN BUSINESS SOLUTIONS | Henry Pertman

Are You Cruising to Success or Heading for a Shipwreck? Hospitality is No Accident My wife and I go on a cruise (or two) almost every year. We take these trips for a variety of reasons, the most important one being that we get to spend uninterrupted time together, talking and enjoying a wonderful and relaxing vacation. But just as important to me is that I learn something new or more thoroughly about how hospitality can be done, how it is accomplished, and how it affects the experience of every guest on that cruise ship. I then take what I have learned and improve the advice and training I provide my clients. On my most recent trip, I enriched my knowledge base and my skillset.

babysit the staff. It is a shipwreck, or a failed business, waiting to happen.

Shipwrecks happen…

The aha moment

…when restaurants (or ships) do not properly train their team members to pay attention to details, plan appropriately, and, especially, make each guest’s experience memorable. Many restaurant managers do not think such training is even possible — instead, lamenting how hard it is to get good help. As a result, expectations of the employees are lowered, and efforts to make the restaurant a great place to work are replaced with management complaints of having to

Back to the cruise ship and my recent vacation. I am an early riser, one of the first to get coffee at the ship’s buffet breakfast, but I have little desire to climb five flights of steps at six in the morning. My “aha moment” on this cruise came early, as a result. I went to push the button for the elevator, and an employee of the ship, whom I had seen polishing the stair rails nearby, reached past me and pressed it herself. She looked me in the eye, introduced herself by her first name, urged

me to enjoy my breakfast and my trip, and promised that she would be there if I needed anything at all. Was her engagement with me over and above? No, it was just typical of my experience for the next seven days. The staff training on the ship was so thorough that each and every employee, without exception, always looked to make my experience a memorable one, as if I were the only guest on board (there were 4,500, actually).

It’s no accident

setting the bar high enough? Are you training, coaching, encouraging, and leading by example, every single day for the benefit of every single guest?” Experiences are opportunities recognized by your staff and then, with proper service and engagement skill training, taken to provide guests with memories they will share with others. And believe me, they do share, good or bad! Cruising to success is not an easy voyage. It takes proper planning, a great attitude every single day, and continual training, coaching, and enforcement. But the rewards are having a successful restaurant or business that brings joy to your guests, provides a great work environment for your crew members, and ultimately delivers the financial success you need to stay afloat. Book your cruise today, and I will be happy to be your travel agent. Happy traveling! HENRY PERTMAN is director of Hospitality Consulting at CohnReznick LLP, located in the firm’s Baltimore, Maryland office. He can be contacted at 410-783-4900 or henry. pertman@cohnreznick.com.

Experiences like that do not happen by accident. I would ask the readers of this column: “Are you

FSM ADVERTISERS SUPPORT THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY OF THE MID-ATLANTIC WHEN THEY SHARE THEIR MESSAGE EACH MONTH. CONTACT LISA SILBER, SALES MANAGER: 301-591-9822 OR LISA@FOODSERVICEMONTHLY.COM FOR THE BEST WAY TO REACH THE REGION’S BUYERS.

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Tell them you saw it in Foodservice Monthly Acme Paper ............................................................. 19 Barter.......................................................................... 7

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Bi-Lingual Hospitality............................................... 19 Carpetronex.............................................................. 16 Culinary Institute........................................................ 1 ITEK Construction.................................................... 18 Martin Bamberger................................................... 18

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Maryland Food Center Authority.......Inside Back Cover OCHMRA..................................................................... 5 Performance Foodservice.........................Back Cover RAM EF..................................................................... 16 Saval Foodservice..........................Inside Front Cover

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MY TAKE | Michael Sternberg

CH-CH-CH-Changes… Change is the law of life. And those who look only to the past or present are certain to miss the future. —John F. Kennedy One of my first columns for Foodservice Monthly was about the changes that we go through in life and in our careers. It seems appropriate that in this last edition of the magazine, the theme of this final column for FSM is also about transitions. Transitions are inevitable. The environment around us changes, and, as a result, we are forced to change along with it. The trade magazine business is not the same as it was when Michael Birchenall founded this magazine in 2002. While Foodservice Monthly evolved with the times, the nature of publishing has changed more (a subject to be explored by people who have greater expertise than I). I am grateful for the opportunity to contribute to this last edition and deeply honored to have been part of the Foodservice Monthly family over the last several years. And while publishing has been transformed since the first issue of Foodservice Monthly in 2002, the landscape of the hospitality industry has changed as well. I see those changes as…

Restaurants have never been better They are more creative, more efficient, more professional, and take inspiration from a worldwide range of influences for design and menu. Fast casual has taken the place of fast food; full-service legacy foodservicemonthly

chain restaurants are being replaced by innovative, chef-driven, unique restaurants; and the originality, inventiveness, and thoughtfulness shown in fine dining has never been greater.

The industry’s advocates... ...(thank you Dawn Sweeney and team) have done a terrific job of extolling the value of hospitality professions, making them more attractive as a career. The result is that the quality of restaurant service continues to improve at the same time as the search for hospitality team members becomes more competitive and restaurant payroll costs continue to rise.

As payroll and benefits costs... ...continue to escalate, technology has helped allay some of the increases, but, in the end, restaurants are still a “people” business, and there is no substitute for great people. Getting the best will be expensive, but the cost of turnover and not having a great team will be astronomical.

Because of rising employment costs... ...we’ll see more fast casual and fine casual concepts as creative restaurateurs continue to look for ways of delivering their products while keeping labor costs down.

The popularity of culinary media... ...has enabled the dining public to be more aware, educated, and

In the end, restaurants will endure, becoming more interesting, more diverse, more inspired, and all-around better. informed about food than ever before. Restaurant goers also have higher expectations for the restaurants that they frequent.

won’t give a damn where the carrot on their plate came from.

One of the “side effects”...

...endure, becoming more interesting, more diverse, more inspired, and all-around better. Restaurants will continue to be the place for leisurely celebrations and for quick family meals between soccer practice and homework. And, most of all, the industry will continue to grow (albeit at a slower pace), providing employment to millions and good career opportunities to any daring enough to go after them. Foodservice Monthly will be missed. It has served our regional industry well for almost two decades. As sad as it is to see it go, given the reach of the internet, something else will spring up in the space it will soon vacate. I hope we’ll meet up again wherever that might be.

...of these higher expectations is that restaurateurs feel required to create unique and transformative environments. They are spending more on décor, on training, and on finding ways to impress. With that, development costs for opening new restaurants are also at an all-time high, making a greater barrier to entry for first-time restaurateurs. Aspiring restaurateurs for whom that barrier is simply too great look for opportunities with food trucks, food halls, and pop-ups, which offer affordable alternatives for getting started. Many “graduate” to brickand-mortar establishments, but others find the lower investment costs of these options better suited to their concepts and lifestyles.

The quality of the food products... ...in the supply chain will expand its dichotomy of really high-quality, artisanal foods to highly processed, low-priced, commercially produced or harvested products. There will be restaurant guests who will care about a restaurant’s sourcing and then, a larger group that simply

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In the end, restaurants will...

MICHAEL STERNBERG is an award-winning expert in a wide array of foodservice venues, including restaurants, hotels, stadiums, arenas, and airports, with operations ranging from full-service to grab & go. He is CEO of Sternberg Hospitality, a full-service restaurant and hospitality consultancy; Consigliere, Rare Steakhouses; and a principal in Mokja Ventures, an investment fund for creative, scalable restaurant concepts. He can be reached at: michael@ sternberghospitality.com or 703-298-2706. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 9

After 17 Wonderful Years... Foodservice Monthly Says Goodbye Michael Birchenall launched Foodservice Monthly in 2002. In the ensuing 17 years, the magazine has shared stories of the foodservice industry in the Mid-Atlantic, from chef profiles, to restaurant reviews, to updates on food growers, suppliers, distributors, servers, and all the unsung heroes in our industry. And while the look of the magazine changed over its almost two decades, its mission to connect and inform the regional restaurant and foodservice community has not changed at all. On the following several pages, those who have contributed to the magazine over its many years share their thoughts about Michael Birchenall and his impact, about their contributions to the magazine, and about the industry’s future. We are grateful for their loyal support and heartfelt tributes.

To Foodservice Monthly... Acquaetta Williams, Michael Birchenall’s wife Michael had the heart of an artist, deeply compassionate, lovely, and very committed. I shared his love of food in our kitchen and in others, his love of poetry, and his ability to never to be without his camera — ending our love story with remembrance, nibbling on Swedish ginger snaps and sipping crisp Mediterranean wine. Paul Saval, Saval Foodservice

Top: Front cover, December 2004 Bottom: Front cover, June/July 2019

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Foodservice Monthly is publishing its last edition, and another tradition ends. At a time when the region’s restaurant industry is exploding, we will no longer have an advocate that connected us. There was a time when the region had two publications dedicated to our restaurant industry. Those two merged into Foodservice Monthly, and its editor, Michael Birchenall, became our industry’s troubadour. Since his passing, Silver Communications and its Sales Manager Lisa Silber did a nice job continuing Michael’s legacy. But now we are told the publication will end, and there will no longer be a common written thread connecting the restaurant industry.

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How will we all communicate with each other? How will we get our messages of accomplishment, information, and happenings? I will miss Linda, Randi, Dara, Juliet, and all the contributors who told us what was going on in this burgeoning regional restaurant scene. Thanks for years of sharing your stories, thoughts, and great information. So that we may stay connected, my suggestion is to really get behind and support our two outstanding trade organizations. The Restaurant Association of Maryland (RAM) and the Restaurant of Metropolitan Washington (RAMW), both with tremendous leadership and staffs, do a great job representing and supporting our restaurant industry and all those who serve it. Join if you have not, read their alerts and website content, participate in their programs and services, and, most of all, keep these last threads of connectivity alive and well. We are in a very challenging but rewarding supply chain. Our company, Saval Foodservice, is honored to be of service to this great industry. We will do our part in communicating through our web and social media and continue to utilize and support the services of RAM and RAMW. foodservicemonthly

Associations Kathy E. Hollinger, RAMW The Washington, D.C. Metropolitan area’s foodservice community will miss Foodservice Monthly dearly, just as we miss Michael Birchenall every day. There was never a truer champion for the chefs and restaurants across our region than Michael, who breezed into the RAMW community as a writer and editor for our Association magazine at the time. Soon after, he started Foodservice Monthly, which became our region’s top industry publication for keeping up with restaurant openings, news from our wholesale community, and foodservice education and training. This was just before the days when Eater and other blogs and websites were just starting to focus on the food industry, and our community read and looked forward to receiving Foodservice Monthly in the mail each month. It connected us not only to one another but also to our state restaurant association counterparts in the Mid-Atlantic. Michael was a trusted resource for so many of us, and he seemed to truly find so much joy and energy from interviewing and getting to know the talented chefs, sommeliers, and rising stars in food and drink from Philadelphia, PA to Richmond, VA, and all in between. Michael and Foodservice Monthly were recognized in RAMMY Awards ceremonies as RAMW’s 2007 Allied Industry Member of the Year and in 2008 as the Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year. Foodservice Monthly has been a local treasure, much due to Michael’s dedication to telling the stories of our people, restaurants, companies, and culture. We thank Michael Birchenall, Lisa Keathley, who took the reins as managing editor following Michael’s passing, and all of the guest columnists, advertisers, and sales team who put so much energy these 17 years into keeping us connected.

Eric Terry, Virginia Restaurant, Travel & Lodging Association (VRLTA) It is with great sorrow we see Foodservice Monthly ride into the sunset. Michael and Foodservice Monthly were synonymous within the restaurant industry in the Mid-Atlantic. Michael’s support of the industry was nothing short of phenomenal. Hopefully, someone will create a blog or some other presence to promote the industry in our region. Special thanks to Lisa Silber, Lisa Keathley, and everyone who kept it going during his illness and beyond. Rest in peace, Michael Birchenall and Foodservice Monthly!

Covers Left to Right: December 2006 May 2007 December 2007 March 2008 Decmber 2009 January 2010

Marshall Weston, RAM In February 2002, the Restaurant Association of Maryland (RAM) wrote an article titled “Wage Garnishment: What you Need to Know” for the first edition of Foodservice Monthly. In the caption before the article, it stated that “Foodservice Monthly wants to be the conduit that operators need to run a profitable business. At the forefront are the associations that bring us together with common issues and goals.” From the very beginning, Foodservice Monthly understood the need for collaborating with partners to give the foodservice/hospitality industry what it needed — and the Restaurant Association of Maryland has always been thankful for being part of that collaboration. The information in this first article was important for ALL restaurants, not just the members of RAM. Knowing this, RAM often used Foodservice Monthly to communicate legislative and regulatory issues to the entire industry with no regard to RAM membership status. Foodservice Monthly was there to educate, understanding that a “rising tide lifts all ships,” and RAM has benefitted from this in the long run. Although the end of an era is upon us, the foodservice industry is stronger than ever. In 2002, Maryland had just over 8,000 restaurants. Today, there are 11,300. I choose to believe that by bringing Continued on page 12

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industry! Best wishes to Lisa Keathley and Lisa Silber in their future endeavors — you ladies have been an absolute pleasure to work with!

Columnists Bob Brown, Bob Brown Says

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us all together, Foodservice Monthly played a part in this growth. Susan Jones, Ocean City Hotel-Motel-Restaurant Association (OCHMRA) In this the last issue of FSM, I’d be remiss if I didn’t do a shout out for our Annual Trade Expo! Foodservice Monthly has been my go-to for all things Trade Expo since its inception! So, mark your calendars — March 8 and 9, 2020 for the 46th Annual Trade Expo at the Ocean City Convention Center. We are beginning to sell booths, so feel free to reach out! Sadly, the magazine’s closure is forcing me to completely evaluate how we go about reaching exhibitors and attendees…as FSM has played an integral part of our marketing plan since day one. Now that I think about it, it was really prior to day one. I recall this guy named Michael Birchenall coming to take my picture for the cover of Restaurant Digest. (Yes, I go back a while, too!) Little did I know that Michael and I would share many years of endless industry conversations. Those conversations were never gossip style conversations; rather they were genuine, “what could we be doing to make things better” conversations. Michael had a knack for connecting the dots and putting the puzzle pieces together, and that was certainly reflected in all that FSM offered. Through the years, Michael provided unending guidance for us, and I am forever grateful. Even through his illness, he’d call to share a thought. and sometimes he’d call just to “hear me smile.” So, I say this with a smile, THANK YOU Foodservice Monthly for years of dedicated hard work on behalf of the 12 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Dear Michael, it’s with great honor that we bestow upon you this last issue of Foodservice Monthly. How could I forget my first memory of you, sitting with your ponytail, suit, tennis shoes, and camera in the front row at the 2004 National Restaurant Show while I delivered “Coaching for Star Performance”? After the presentation, you patiently waited for the last person to leave and came over to chat and offer support. Later, I was proud to write a column you entitled ‘Bob Brown Says.’ I won’t forget writing you from Dubai, Aruba, or London to ensure all was on point. Then back off the road, we spent hours talking about family, love, and relationships and yes…living and dying. We both shared a love of musical artists of our generation, including Tim Hardin, who wrote, ‘If I Were a Carpenter,’ Richie Havens, and Neil Young. You were astonished that I had toured with your heroes and recorded albums. Michael, you were the great encourager of all things hospitality — a cheerleader to purveyors, restaurateurs, servers, chefs, farmers, and fishermen. You took your seat at endless panel discussions, industry roundtables, cooking school forums, award dinners, and educational sessions. You were a fighter and advocate for all — from CEOs to those who played supporting roles: stewards, bussers, dishwashers, line cooks, and delivery guys and gals. You always gave more than a fleeting moment to lend encouragement. So, now Michael, it’s time for us to play it forward with the essence of you — all things kind, gentle, and wise — and to keep alive your spirit of giving to our friends, guests, partners, and fellow travelers. P.S. A special call out to (managing editor) Lisa Keathley and to Margaret Rose Caro, my ally, compatriot, and editor of 20 years.

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Linda Roth, The Latest Dish When I first started writing The Latest Dish for Restaurant Digest (which preceded Foodservice Monthly), Michael was my editor. When he made the move in 2002 to start his own restaurant industry publication, Foodservice Monthly, he asked if I would join him. I told him wherever he went, I went. I could not imagine writing the column without him. I still cannot. Michael and I loved to gossip. He would call to remind me of the deadline, as I was usually the last one to submit my column. I knew about so much restaurant news that I could not write about in my column, as I would never betray a confidence. But I could tell Michael and know all secrets were safe. We also loved to talk shop — about the ups and downs of various restaurateurs and burgeoning parts of the region. I still miss those calls. Michael, the editor, was also Michael, the artist — one of the many things he and (his wife) Acqua had in common. He was an observer, hence, a talented photographer who captured simple scenes that spoke volumes. I have several of his photographs framed in my house. I see something different each time I look at them. Sort of like my conversations with Michael. He was the heart and soul of Foodservice Monthly. Randi Rom, Whining ’n Dining I started my professional career producing large-scale special events and promotions, including The Preakness Hot Air Balloon Race and Festival, HonFest, Party on the Bay, Miracle on Main Street, and the Farm to Chef Culinary Competition, to name a few. Over 25 years ago, my friend and fellow Foodservice Monthly contributor, the oh-so-fabulous Miz Linda Roth called and asked if I wanted to write a restaurant column in her friend’s magazine called Restaurant Digest. She said, “I told my friend Michael that you knew everyone in Baltimore.” I met with Michael, we hit it off, and he asked if I’d write a column about the restaurant scene in and around B-more. When Michael left Restaurant foodservicemonthly

Digest and started Foodservice Monthly, Linda and I followed him. I don’t think we even had a discussion about it…we all just assumed that we would remain a team. When I was trying to come up with a name for the column, and I suggested Whining ‘n Dining, Michael wasn’t sure because he never liked people to write anything that was negative. After reading a few of my columns, he said, “Yeah, it kinda fits you.” Soooo…writing for Michael opened up a whole new dimension in my business, and I began coordinating marketing efforts for restaurants…grand openings, new menu launches, branding campaigns, etc. I’ve worked with owners, GM’s, and chefs at some seriously amazing restaurants, including The Milton Inn, Langermann’s, The Boathouse, Pierpoint, Surfside Sally’s (WAY back in the day), CURED1821, and a few Randi/Linda collaborations like Famous Dave’s and Champions Sports Bar. Now, with FSM closing and after 17 years of writing my column, I can’t put together a goodbye piece without highlighting my wonderful friend, the amazing, talented — Michael a.k.a Mr. Ed. (I initially referred to him as my editor, which turned into Mr. Editor, and then became Mr. Ed. And yes, we thought we were amusing.) He had an absolute passion for the hospitality business, was a one-of-a-kind force in the industry, and he put together a tremendous group of writers. This final piece is for my friend of more than 25 years. My Editor. One of the (really) good guys. You always particularly enjoyed my end-of-theyear/favorite things column, so I’ll wrap this up by saying…YOU were my favorite thing. Alexandra Greeley, Local Cooks Writing about women in the D.C. food world was Michael Birchenall’s request. Because he had been a long-time good friend, I respected his request and have since spoken with and written stories about many interesting women who cover every aspect — from baking, to running high-end restaurants, to operating an ice cream factory, to operating a soup-making company, to working foodservicemonthly

Below: Michael Birchenall at his desk, surrounded by some of the souvenirs of the work he loved

as a restaurant publicist, plus others. How much such culinary women have given to D.C. and the metro area is remarkable. Thanks, Michael, for the great idea. Blessings. Celeste McCall, Culinary Correspondent I will greatly miss Foodservice Monthly. I will especially miss working with Lisa Keathley, who has helmed the publication since the death of founder Michael Birchenall in January 2017. Lisa is a worthy successor to Michael, a tough act to follow. When I learned this is the last issue of FSM, I reflected on my tenure there. Since 2002, I contributed myriad articles. Michael called me “Culinary Correspondent.” As for topics, Michael gave me free rein, space permitting. Favorite stories? Plastics clogging the oceans, restaurant food waste, the growing popularity of South African wine, the seafood industry’s response to the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill (collaborating with then RAMW executive director Lynne Breaux), and restaurant recovery in the wake of hurricane Katrina. Henry Pertman, Modern Business Solutions A fond farewell to a good friend. For anyone reading this right now,

you know my history goes back to 2004, when Michael asked me if I would be interested in writing a monthly column relating to hospitality technology. Michael Birchenall and I quickly became friends as he guided me through ideas that he thought would be valuable for his readers. And so it went for the next fifteen years. Kind and caring, Michael passed, but the articles and his labor of love, Foodservice Monthly lived on. And now it is time for all of us to move on. As I am fond of saying, the only thing that technology has changed is…everything. We can lament the loss of Michael, of his beloved publication, and of everything that technology has changed and will continue to change, or we can feel and be enriched by their passing. Carry on the passion of Michael’s love of all things hospitality, continue to drive the mission of Foodservice Monthly and tell great Continued on page 14

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Magazine staff Below (l to r): Hospitality industry publicist Anthony Hesselius, restaurateur Jose Andres, and Foodservice Monthly founder Michael Birchenall at a RAMW event Fredde Lieberman

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CONTINUED from page 13

tales of how people can be treated, should be treated, and how they can be made to enjoy life a little bit more, through their culinary and service experiences, and ultimately to thrive using the tools that technology provides to all of us. Until we meet again, and we will, love what you do, eat to live, and stay passionate. It is important, and it is Michael’s legacy. Michael Gabriel, Insurance…Plus! It is sad to say goodbye to Foodservice Monthly. I have had the good fortune of being a part of the foodservice and restaurant industry the State of Maryland for several years. Foodservice Monthly was a great way for us to stay current with all the local news and information within the industry. One would always look forward to the next edition to see if your photo made it in the magazine while attending a food show or industry event. You could also see what was 14 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

going on among your competitors as well. Upon changing careers, my business relationship with Foodservice Monthly has certainly grown over this last year with our column, Insurance …Plus. It will be sorely missed as we will no longer have a publication that will keep us up to date with local industry news... but more importantly, missing the relationships with all involved with the magazine. Dara Bunjon, Balti-MORE An end of an era! Foodservice Monthly was the late Michael Birchenall’s baby — he grew the magazine to be the leading hospitality / restaurant trade magazine on the East Coast. Michael’s passion for the foodservice industry and, most importantly, the people within it garnered great respect. With the loss of Michael, some of the heart of the magazine disappeared as well. Michael recruited me from another local hospitality magazine, and we developed the Baltimore column featuring restaurateurs, chefs, brewers, suppliers, and caterers. More and more, my focus was on women in the industry — shining the spotlight on them. I think Michael would be proud. Adios to an era and gratitude for letting me share my stories.

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Lisa Silber, Foodservice Monthly Sales Manager It is with gratitude, pride, and love that I say goodbye to Foodservice Monthly. Gratitude, that I was able to know and work with a great mentor, Michael Birchenall, who taught me about the food industry and introduced me to so many wonderful people. Pride, that we were able to keep his legacy alive for the past several years and take it forward with diversity, interesting stories, and new advertisers, and additionally, because of our wonderfully talented editor, Lisa Keathley. Her writing and compassion made our stories and magazine come alive with a new style and flavor that reflected the changing industry. Also, our talented contributing writers who have supported the magazine and stayed loyal to its existence — we couldn’t have done it without you. All of your fabulous articles, etiquette tips, educational information, and advice have been the backbone of the magazine. Lastly, love! For all the wonderful friends, advertisers, and customers I have made over the years, I will truly miss you! I know that because of you, the Mid-Atlantic food industry will continue to grow and flourish. You all kept the magazine in print. Foodservice Monthly has been the voice of the Mid-Atlantic food industry and a source of news and information for so many years – I encourage all our readers to join RAM, RAMW, OCHMRA, and VRLTA to stay connected. To all the loyal readers and restaurateurs who have followed us for years, thank you. You are the heart and soul of this industry. All your personal success stories and all that you do to help the communities we live in are what make this industry the BEST! You set the trends, make neighborhoods come alive with great food, ethnic flavors, and spices, and of course, create jobs! Keep on doing what you do! You make a difference. Best wishes to everyone. It’s not goodbye, just see you later! foodservicemonthly

Lisa Keathley, Foodservice Monthly Managing Editor I never met Michael Birchenall. However, he affected my life in so many positive ways. I took over the managing editor position at Foodservice Monthly just after Michael passed away. I had worked in radio and television and written a lot for newsletters and other publications, but I had never edited a magazine. It was a true honor to be asked by Ho Pham and Lisa Silber to take on the job. The position led to so many wonderful adventures. I interviewed some of the lions of the Mid-Atlantic food industry, such as Robert Wiedmaier, as he launched Siren, eight-time James Beard Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic finalist Chef Cindy Wolf of Baltimore’s Charleston, and Ashok Bajaj of the Knightsbridge Restaurant Group, as he celebrated The Bombay Club’s 30th anniversary. I met and crafted stories about some newcomers to the industry, too, including the team behind the Choolaah Indian BBQ concept and Sprelly’s Adrian Silversmith, who hopes to redefine the PB&J with his nut butter combinations. I interviewed many people who are “doing good” within the industry. Mike Curtain, CEO of DC Central Kitchen, was one of them, along with Chef Catina Smith, who is trying to create diversity in every kitchen in our region. My first cover article focused on the Meyers family of Sam’s Canterbury Café in Baltimore, an eatery that is providing jobs for those with autism spectrum disorder. My last featured Equinox’s Todd Gray and Ellen Kassoff and their #NotWasted movement to eliminate food waste in the restaurant business. I attended many events, conferences, and food shows. What an education and how inspiring to see the dedication and hard work that goes into making a restaurant work, literally from farm to table! To the columnists and food association leaders who contributed to the magazine with relevant and interesting stories, thank you. Thank you to the advertisers who continued to advertise even as the world of print media has been changing in front of our eyes. To the PR experts who represent the industry, thank foodservicemonthly

you for pitching such great ideas for coverage. I wish we could have included more. And to the FSM team of Ho Pham, Lisa Silber, and the staff at Electronic Ink, thank you for teaching me so much that I didn’t know about magazine design and publishing. Through our dealings, many of you have become delightful friends. No, I never met Michael personally. But he provided a window on a world new to me and, through the words of everyone else who knew him, gave me ideas on some of the themes and values he might have chosen to highlight. It was an honor and a privilege to carry on his dream, and his legacy, just a little longer. I will be ever grateful. Ho Pham, President, Silver Communication Sadly, just as all great meals come to an end, Foodservice Monthly is serving up its final publication. There are not enough words of appreciation to express to all the wonderful people who were so integral to the magazine. First, Michael Birchenall — who was the creator and heart of the publication from its conception. His knowledge and love of the MidAtlantic foodservice industry drove him to find new businesses, trends, information, and people to write about and bring into the spotlight. It was truly his passion. Then, when Silver Communications acquired the magazine and Michael became the full-time editor, Lisa Silber joined on as sales manager. Together, they brought the magazine a new, fresh look with glossy covers, new advertisers, and new visions. We can’t forget our dear late and great friend Sterling Schiffman, who loved the publication and was a joyous presence and endless promoter of the magazine. To all our wonderful writers: Bob Brown, Henry Pertman, Linda Roth, Randi Rom, Celeste McCall, Juliet Bodinetz, Dara Bunjon, Alexandra Greeley, Tim Sughrue, Eric Terry, Marshall Weston, Susan Jones, Dennis Barry, Kathy Hollinger, Michael Sternberg, and Michael Gabriel’s insurance team: we couldn’t have done it without you! All these writers have lovingly written

interesting, informative, relevant, and heart-felt articles over the years. Then, after Michael passed away, we were fortunate enough to find another fabulous managing editor, Lisa Keathley. She brought new perspectives and wonderful stories to our readers for almost the last three years. It was a pleasure to have her on the team. To our advertisers: Saval Foods, Congressional Seafood, Acme Paper, H M Wagner, Performance Foodservice, Metropolitan Meat Seafood & Poultry, Itek Construction, H&S Bakery, Maryland Foodservice Authority, Maryland Department of Agriculture, Keany Produce, Coastal Sunbelt, Capital Meat Co., Martin Bamberger, Gourmet Kitchen, FoodPRO, Singer Equipment, R&R Coatings, ESS, Bi-Lingual Hospitality, Holt, EMR, Soft Stuff Distributors, Valley Proteins, Restaurant Depot, RAM EF, RAMW, and OCHMRA. There are many more — too many to name — thank you! To our readers and subscribers who have continually followed us over the years, it has been a pleasure to produce and publish this publication. Sadly, the industry is changing, and, although we have many loyal supporters, the revenue we derive from the publication has declined. It’s time for all good things to come to an end. I’m confident that the industry will find new and interesting ways to deliver the information and the foodservice news. Good thoughts, good food, and good luck. Note: Parting thoughts from Michael Sternberg, My Take, and Juliet Bodinetz, Food Smarts, are expressed in their articles on pages 9 and 17.

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THE LATEST DISH

cont. from page 5 will open a matchbox in Comstock’s Helmet Jahn building, and Big Buns Damn Good Burgers will open in the BLVD residential tower — both in the plaza in front of Wiehle-Reston East Metro station. Openings are planned for Q4 2019 or Q1 2020. Xiquet, a Spanish restaurant, will open in the second level above Slate Wine Bar + Bistro in Glover Park. Slate chef/partner Danny Lledó previously worked at José Andrés’s ThinkFoodGroup and at Taberna del Alabardero. Born and raised in Dénia, a port city that is known as paella’s birthplace, Danny has won first place at six paella festivals. Expect four to six types of paella at the restaurant. An August opening is planned. Swahili Village, an East African restaurant serving Kenyan food, has taken over the lease at 1990 M Street, NW, where Vidalia, then Honeysuckle, used to be. Its first location is in Beltsville, Md. Chef-owner Kevin Onyona hopes to open by Q4 2019.

Ch-ch-changes… Napoli Pasta Bar in Columbia Heights at 2737 Sherman Avenue, NW took over the space upstairs and doubled its capacity. It’s now open during the day, serving light fare, before transitioning to its regular dinner service. Mike Cordero is opening Taco Rock, a surf-and-turf taco and tequila spot, in Rosslyn. The 50-seat location replaces Spinfire Pizza at 1501 Wilson Boulevard. Mike also co-owns Don Tito and The G.O.A.T. (Greatest of All Time) in Clarendon. His sons Nick and Anthony Cordero

ASSOCIATION NEWS RAMW cont. from page 4

New Restaurant of the Year: Spoken English Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Iron Gate Pastry Chef of the Year: Ana Deshaies, Unconventional Diner Rising Culinary Star of the Year: Kwame Onwuachi, Kith/Kin 16 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

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will join him at Taco Rock. Stefano Marzano, executive chef and owner of MightyMeals, is also a partner. Mike is also converting A-Town Bar and Grill in Ballston into a German beer hall called Bronson.

Just opened… Prima, a fast-casual concept, brought to you by the Schlow Restaurant Group, opened on Bethesda Row, where Taylor Gourmet was at 7280 Woodmont Avenue. Meridian Pint, formerly of Columbia Heights, moved across the bridge and opened at 6035 Wilson Boulevard in in the Dominion Hills neighborhood of Arlington. Fogo de Chão opened at Pike & Rose in North Bethesda, its third location in the metro area, in addition to its Tysons and downtown D.C. spots. It features lounge seating, as well as an outdoor patio at its newest location. Chef Moises Lopes leads the kitchen. Commonwealth Indian, a Northern Indian restaurant from chef/owner Sunil Bastola, also opened at Pike & Rose. He also owns two locations of Bollywood Bistro in Northern Virginia. Devin Gong opened Astoria, at 1521 17th Street, NW, in Dupont Circle. Its sister restaurant is CopyCat Co. on H Street, NE. Previously a bar manager at Barmini, he began to cook Chinese Sichuan dishes he liked to eat along with Americanized favorites. LINDA ROTH is CEO of Linda Roth Associates, Inc., specializing in marketing, promotions, and publicity in the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 202-888-3571 or linda@ lindarothpr.com, or visit her website at www. lindarothpr.com.

Restaurateur of the Year: Michael Friedman, Mike O’Malley, Colin McDonough, and Gareth Croke, Redstone Restaurant Group (All Purpose, Boundary Stone, The Red Hen) Chef of the Year: Kyle Bailey, The Salt Line KATHY E. HOLLINGER is President and CEO of Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington. foodservicemonthly

FOOD SMARTS | Juliet Bodinetz

Ten Food Safety Basics — AKA “Julietisms”…For Real Ten years ago, the late Michael Birchenall asked me if I would consider writing a food safety article for the September 2009 Foodservice Monthly magazine. “Wow!” I was so honored and intimidated at the same time. My company, Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions, was not quite two years old at the time. Now, ten years later, I am literally writing my last Foodservice Monthly article from my NEW HOME office desk. I am emotional writing this. I feel much gratitude toward and miss my dear friend, Michael Birchenall. He was always a very important mentor to me, and I am forever grateful that he believed in me before I found the inner strength and confidence to believe that “I, Juliet Bodinetz,” was capable to build a successful company. His support on the business side was indispensable to helping my business grow, and having “approval from Michael Birchenall” enhanced both my and my company’s prestige. I always equated Michael’s support with the commercial of the time, “When EF Hutton talks, people listen.” I shall admit, I am the queen procrastinator. I just about always ended up writing “Food Smarts… For Real” articles at the very last minute or, most times, past the deadline given. Michael was so kind and gracious to say it was okay to turn in later…and then after listening to my always-quiteoriginal excuse as to why I was late, we would proceed to have the best, long conversations. I always got the articles done. Michael had a quiet strength and expectation that made you never want to disappoint. So here goes. Ten years of food safety articles is a lot of food safety articles. I wondered what I would write about for the last foodservicemonthly

issue. I decided to impart the most important “Julietisms” from over the years.

“Every food-borne illness is preventable.”

That means one illness or death as a result of badly handled contaminated food is one too many. The CDC reports that 3,000 to 5,000 people die each year in the United States due to a food-borne illness. The CDC also reports that one out of every six people gets a food-borne illness each year. I believe this statistic is underreported and should be much higher since not everyone who gets ill goes to a doctor and is counted in the foodborne illness tally.

“Wash your hands, wash your hands, wash your hands!”

It’s flabbergasting to me how many people don’t wash their hands when they should or don’t wash their hands correctly. The whole hand-washing process lasts only 20 seconds when done correctly. The most vital part is to scrub those hands for at least 10 to15 seconds with soap, and please use only a designated hand sink to wash your hands. Here’s the drill: 1. Wet hands with warm running water. 2. Apply soap. 3. Vigorously scrub hands for 10 to 15 seconds, under fingernails, and between fingers. 4. Rinse under running water. 5. Dry with a single-use towel or warm-air hand dryer. 6. Consider using a paper towel to turn off the faucet and open the door when leaving the restroom.

Cooking Temperatures 165°F: Poultry and all else not listed below 155°F: Ground meats and ground fish, eggs for hot holding 145°F: Meats, fish, and eggs 135°F: For hot holding: fruits, vegetables, rice, beans, pasta, ready-to-eat commercially processed prepared foods

“Keep food out of the TDZ, the Temperature Danger Zone.”

The TDZ is between 41°F and 135°F. I translate this as being at room temperature. Rely on your proper equipment to keep cold food at 41°F or lower, and ensure that your hot-holding equipment is capable of keeping hot food at 135°F or higher. The cut-off time accumulatively to leave food in the TDZ is only four hours! I call this personally, “the four-hour rule.” The four-hour rule applies to everything. Take temperature checks at least every four hours, and please throw food away should it measure in the TDZ at four hours. Clean and sanitize equipment that has been used for the same food all day at the least “every four hours.” Change your gloves for the same task, at the least, “every four hours.”

“Don’t come to work sick!”

I get that you won’t get paid if you don’t go to work, but why contaminate food, co-workers, and guests if you have vomiting or diarrhea. Not cool. On that note, I say in every class, “Please act as if you’re sick at work and don’t know it yet.” Hepatitis A petrifies me because you can be contagious

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for months before turning yellow with jaundice as the symptom. Meanwhile, you could have easily contaminated thousands of people not realizing you were sick. Also, I tell all my students to work as if all of their guests are in a high-risk population with weaker immune systems since you can’t tell by their appearance. For example, someone could have had an organ transplant or be going through cancer treatment. No one is wearing a forehead sticker to indicate they are part of high-risk population.

“Keep your facility clean!”

“Clean and sanitize all surfaces that shall touch food.”

Who is proud to work in a dirty place?! Also, keeping your facility clean is, in my opinion, the best control for pests. Let them be attracted to your neighbor’s dirty facility. Additionally, if a pest does enter your facility by accident, say in a box of lettuce, having a clean establishment with no food detritus around will cause it not to survive or multiply.

All food contact surfaces must be cleaned and sanitized. Please make sure to follow the directions to make the sanitizer solution and to test it with a test strip or test kit to confirm it was made properly. When do you need to clean and sanitize food contact surfaces? • Before they are used. • After they are used. • Before working with a different food. • After handling different raw TCS (Time and Temperature Control) fruits and vegetables.

FOOD SMARTS cont. page 18 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 17

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• After four hours in constant use.

Different pathogens are associated with different foods so you need to cook foods to their minimum required temperatures. Poultry meat, with the potential of salmonella that can be found in poultry, requires a higher heat to ensure killing any potential contamination.

• Any time the food handler is interrupted, and food items might have been contaminated.

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“Cook foods to their proper temperatures.”

cont. from page 17

“Avoid cross contamination.”

Don’t let dirty hands or other foods touch each other or other food surfaces. Clean and sanitize when changing to a new food. The good thing is that cleaning and sanitizing, along with proper cooking temperatures, will get rid of most cross contamination. That is why it is imperative that you also store foods in the correct order from top to bottom in your refrigerator units: ready-to-eat food; whole cuts of seafood; whole cuts of beef, pork, veal, or lamb; ground meat and ground fish; and whole and ground poultry.

“Avoid cross contact.”

Keep the common food allergens separate from other foods. Raw or cooked, if the food with the allergen touches a guest’s food with an allergen, the guest is going to have a reaction, and it could be fatal. For this reason, all employees need to know the ingredients of every dish and be honest with the guest. If you don’t know the ingredients, tell the truth. “I don’t know,” is a great answer. You are saving lives. Designate a reliable go-to person for each shift who can answer all questions about ingredients. The only way to avoid an allergic reaction is to keep the allergycausing food “separate” from the other food ingredients.

“Wash your poopy produce!”

It’s funny, but it’s not. Fecal matter touches your leafy greens and other produce in multiple ways; birds flying overhead, manure from animals walking in the field, or crops that are irrigated with sewage water. Please wash your produce — always — before starting prep or consuming it.

Bottom line… Be sure to follow safe food practices, and, if in doubt, check in with your health department or your food safety teacher. As Michael Birchenall would advocate: do the right thing at all times. Maybe, you have done something wrong your whole life, and no one has gotten sick as a result. But with education, we now know better. If someone gets ill, the consequences can be fatal, and it was likely preventable. JULIET BODINETZ is the executive director of Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions and has over 30 years industry and training experience. She and her team of instructors specialize in food safety, alcohol training, ServSafe training in English or in Spanish, and writing HACCP plans in the Baltimore and Washington D.C. metro areas. www.bilingualhospitality.com, juliet@ bilingualhospitality.com or 443-838-7561. For Latest Food Safety Tips: Become a Fan on Facebook or Twitter: @BHTS.

Tasty bytes at foodservicemonthly.com

(703) 261-6663

www.itekconstruction.com 18 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

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BALTI-MORE | Dara Bunjon

Fufills All Maryland Health Department Requirements Recommended by: Coastal Sunbelt Produce, Baltimore Hispanic Chamber of Commerce, Foodservice Monthly, MICROS, PFG, RAMW & SAVAL

Larder Beckons with Pre-Industrial Food Preservation Techniques Larder 3 W. 23rd Street (Courtyard entrance on 23rd St. between Maryland Ave. & Charles St.) Baltimore MD 21218 410.982.6246 hello@larderbaltimore.com www.larderbaltimore.com

ACME PAPER & SUPPLY

Assistant Alisa Glenn (l) with owner/chef Helena del Pesco (r) Larder owner and chef Helena del Pesco’s passion for the creative process of cooking started as part of an art school project…which led to catering opportunities. That led to a desire to open a business based on foraging wild food and making food from locally grown products. Expanding further, del Pesco starting learning about the medicinal properties of plants and made that a core premise of Larder. Skilled in pre-industrial period food preservation, the chef offers lacto-fermented pickles, fermented Habanero hot sauce, and vegan pate on any one of the ever-changing, peak-of-the-season menus. All of the items made in-house are gluten free, including the pastries. The only item that has wheat is a whole grain sourdough bread baked off-site — so no cross contamination. The eatery serves lunch Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., with “happy hour” offerings from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. The restaurant is open until 9:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays; foodservicemonthly

• Restaurant Equipment & Smallwares • Sustainable Foodservice Packaging • Janitorial Equipment & Green Cleaning Supplies THANK YOU FSM FOR YOUR INVALUABLE CONTRIBUTION TO THE FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY IN THE MID ATLANTIC

closed on Sundays and Mondays. Entrees could be a summer salad of cucumber, assorted beans, beets, basil, and feta with optional smoked bluefish. Desserts could be a ginger vinegar curd and strawberry tart or a peach basil popsicle. Whatever food items are at their peak at the time will land on the menu at Larder. DARA BUNJON: Dara Does It — Creative Solutions for the Food Industry, offers public relations, social media training, administration, freelance writing, marketing, and more. Contact Dara: 410-486-0339, info@dara-does-it.com or www.dara-does-it. com; Twitter and Instagram: @daracooks. Listen to her Dining Dish radio program on Baltimore Internet Radio.

www.acmepaper.com 800.462.5812 Toll Free 410.792.2333 Baltimore 301.953.3131 Washington SERVING THE BUSINESS COMMUNITY FOR OVER 70 YEARS

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 | 19

Dog Days of Summer, Birroteca Ba

WHINING ’N DINING | Randi Rom

Neal Langermann Helms The Blackwall Barn & Lodge team of forward-thinking hospitality professionals dedicated to producing an exceptional dining experience.” Depending on the season, menu selections may include various farmhouse soups from scratch, shrimp and grits, beef short ribs, and Eastern Shore crab cakes, as well as vegan and gluten-free options. And for dessert…cobblers, and puddings, and Smith Island Cake — OH MY! http://www.barnandlodge.com/.

Executive Chef Neal Langermann, The Blackwall Barn & Lodge Award-winning Chef Neal Langermann (one of my all-time fave chefs) is now the executive chef at The Blackwall Barn & Lodge in Gambrills. This very cool, unique property offers a family-style restaurant, private party rooms, and special event spaces, including The Barn, The Cottage, and The Game Room. The property evokes a sense of comfort and community (think lots of natural wood, mason jars, farm flowers, wine crates), while offering quality menu options with an emphasis on superior service. Chef Langermann said, “Our approach to the art of dining showcases a farm-fresh, family-style (not plated) concept. We design our constantly changing menus to feature locally produced food, using seasonal fruits and veggies, and we have a healthy respect for the environment and local economy, as our farm-to-table model puts money directly into the hands of local farmers. This is a great opportunity to work with a dynamic, supportive 20 | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Dog Days of Summer, Birroteca Baltimore

What’s happening… If you’re a dog freak like me, you’ll love these pup-inspired events at Birroteca Baltimore. Thirsty Dog Thursdays (every Thursday through September 5th) offers an all-night happy hour on the patio. Bring your pups for complimentary doggie ice cream! Another pawsome event, “Dog Days of Summer,” took place on August 4th when dog lovers could enjoy doggie pools, a photo booth, live music, corn hole, giant beer pong, and local restaurant and brewery pop-ups. FYI — I love their Burrata cheese and tomato bruschetta and the 20-ounce New

York Strip. (The steak serves two, but I take half home!) And on Sunday evenings, Birroteca will present a Nickel Taphouse pop-up featuring the now-defunct Mount Washington restaurant’s most popular menu items including duck wings, the nickel burger, baked oysters, and…. wait for it…key lime pie. http://www.bmorebirroteca.com/ home. Dining Out for Life, a fundraiser for Moveable Feast, is slated for Thursday, September 19th. Over 70 participating restaurants and other food and beverage establishments in the Baltimore metro area will donate 25 to 50 percent of sales towards helping those living with HIV/AIDS, cancer, and other life-threatening illnesses. “There is really no better excuse to grab some friends and go out on September 19th,” said Christian Metzger, executive director for Moveable Feast. “Whether it’s lunch or dinner — or both! — we invite you to dine out and support our mission to put healthy food on the table for people in Maryland living with life-threatening illnesses.” New this year, in addition to being able to dine out at an array of restaurants, participants can attend a cooking class at Schola, grab drinks at one of several breweries, or head over to The Charmery for an after-dinner treat. https://www. diningoutforlife.com/city/baltimore/. Stone’s Throw Hash serves hot bowls with diced organic sweet potatoes mixed with fresh produce and topped with free-range eggs, cooked to order. The ingredients are sourced from farms (only a stone’s throw away), gluten-free, and paleo-friendly with vegan/ vegetarian options. Stone’s Throw Hash can be found at local farmers’ markets, including in Fells Point and Govans and other community

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events. And…they’ll be the resident pop-up vendor at R House from August 12 to 18. A mobile truck is in the works, projected to be on the streets this fall. Can a brick and mortar be far behind? https://www. stonesthrowhash.com/the-goods.

Open for biz… Raw & Refined, a bright, airy new restaurant, opened on the waterfront in Canton. The menu offers a fresh take on coastal cuisine, reimagined street food from around the world, and an ambitious bar program. Just steps from the marina, the property features a waterfront patio and a nautical-themed deck bar. https:// www.rawandrefinedbaltimore.com/. Coelum Café, Bar & Market opened in the spot formerly occupied by Gitan Bistro Cru in Canton. https://www. coelumbaltimore.com/. Ono Poke, which offers authentic Hawaiian-style poké, opened inside the newly renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill. https://www. onopokemd.com/welcome.

Coming soon… The Charmery ice cream shop has locations in Hampden and Towson, as well as a production factory inside Union Collective. And now, owners Laura and David Alima will open a fourth location at 46 E. Cross Street in Federal Hill. The Fed Hill location will be a walk-up window concept featuring original/locally inspired flavors, including Old Bay Caramel and Lemon Stick. https://www. thecharmery.com/. RANDI ROM is a Baltimore special events planner, marketing and public relations maven, freelance writer, and head of R.J. Rom & Associates. Have a hot scoop? Contact Randi via e-mail at: randirom@ comcast.net or by phone at: 443-691-9671. foodservicemonthly

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