Ontrak Fall 2015 by Statehood Media

#RAILGATING

FALL 2015

TAILGATE FROM THE TRAIN

EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST

SALEM OLYMPIA

AN ADVENTURE IN PNW CAPITALS

TAKE US WITH YOU nts of Complime ® ades sc Amtrak Ca

Explªe SIGHTS AND TASTES ALONG THE TRAIN LINE

WINE TASTING NEAR THE TRAIN IN PICTURES: WOMEN’S BIKER RALLY THE LAST RAILROAD WAR

PICTURED HERE: Seattle’s skyline

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route

YOU PACK. WE PLAN. Enjoy a weekend in Bothell, WA.

Your destination for Northwest fun! Save with a Sip & Stay package designed for beer and wine tasting or a Play & Stay package to take your Washington adventure outdoors. All packages include dining offers at local restaurants and special rates at Bothell hotels. Book today at exploreBothell.com/weekends!

Welcome to your New Jewelry Home Maloyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewelry has been a downtown Portland tradition for over 25 years, with one of the finest selections of fully restored antique jewelry on the West Coast. A glittering jewel box full treasures from all the most beautiful periods of jewelry design, you will find everything from Edwardian engagement rings to Art Nouveau pendants, Victorian lockets to Art Deco earrings. We also have a full staff of expert bench jewelers right on site, and can work our restoration or redesign magic on your own family heirlooms. With vintage treasures in every price range, an exceptional memento of your trip is always in reach. Come visit with our friendly staff and explore. Conveniently located on both the max and streetcar lines.

M-F 10am to 5:30pm Sat 11am to 5pm 717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com

Bend, Oregon

Peaks with endless views, a historic town that mixes cosmo-cool with genuine friendliness, a lifetime of world-class outdoor bliss, and 16 craft breweries along the legendary Bend Ale Trail. If you crave adventure, you belong in Bend.

visitbend.com

Broken Top

Tyler Roemer

Features FALL 2015

Pacific Northwest on the Palate Discovering vineyards and tasting rooms along the Amtrak Cascades route.

The Dream Roll Women motorcycle riders take to scenic roads.

The Last Railroad War The battle to build the Oregon Trunk Line in Central Oregon.

John Waller

| FALL 2015

ontrakmag.com

Start your road trip at: bellingham.org

hotelbellwether.com

thechrysalisinn.com

fairhavenvillageinn.com

Departments FALL 2015

33 Outdoors NW

INTRO 10 Letter 14 Contributors 16 Digital

Win an urban spa day and a hotel stay.

BUSINESS 19 Green Biz

Habitat enhancement and restoration with AquaTerra.

20 Q&A

Teenagers create international award-winning robot in Lake Oswego.

CULTURE 23 Chef Spotlight

Andrea Carlson’s Vancouver, BC restaurant thrives on the 100-Mile Diet.

24 Music

Hey Marseilles melds folk storytelling with orchestral pop.

25 On Stage

Interpreting nature via abstract art with April Ponsford.

27 Event Calendar

Plan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.

| FALL 2015

Kaia D’Albora University of Washington’s Men’s Rowing Team.

OUTDOORS

33 Outdoors NW

Talking legacy with University of Washington crew coach Mike Callahan.

36 Notes from the Adventure A remembrance of trains past.

40 Weekender

EXPLORE GUIDE

Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop.

56 Oregon 60 Washington

64 Vancouver 69

Train Games

42 Weekender

Route Maps

Special Deals on Amtrak Cascades

68 Exposure

Parting Shot

Exploring capitals and capitols in Salem, Oregon and Olympia, Washington. U of O and UW alumni get in the football spirit on the Game Train. Submit a photo for a chance to win the photo contest.

ON THE COVER: The cover was shot by Jeff Engelhardt, a Seattle-based photographer. Though Engelhardt usually strives to capture beauty in unexpected places, he made an exception for the stunning view of Seattle’s skyline from Dr. José Rizal Park.

ontrakmag.com

David Wojnarowicz (born 1954, died 1992 ), Untitled (Buffalo) (detail), 1988–89. Vintage gelatin silver print, signed on verso, 27½ × 35½ inches. Private collection, Courtesy of the Estate of David Wojnarowicz and P.P.O.W Gallery, New York.

October 3, 2015 – January 10, 2016

“A long-awaited survey of work from this era…” — The New York Times “Uncomfortable, wistfully beautiful, and vitally important…” — Advocate.com

1701 Pacific Avenue Tacoma, WA 98402 253-272-4258 www.TacomaArtMuseum.org

Art AIDS America is organized by Tacoma Art Museum in partnership with The Bronx Museum of the Arts, and co-curated by Dr. Jonathan D. Katz, Director, Visual Studies Doctoral Program at the University at Buffalo (The State University of New York), and Rock Hushka, Chief Curator at Tacoma Art Museum. The exhibition is made possible by support from The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, The Paul G. Allen Family Foundation, and Leslie-Lohman Museum of Gay and Lesbian Art. Additional support provided by Gilead Sciences, Inc.

Letter FALL 2015

From: Nancy Nathanson

Oregon State Representative, District 13

| FALL 2015

I HOPE YOU’RE ENJOYING your trip aboard one of the most scenic train routes in the country. As a representative in the Oregon State Legislature, I’ve been a longtime supporter of Amtrak Cascades trains and am pleased to share that we voted to continue service in Oregon for the next two years. It really helps legislators when our train riders remind us that intercity passenger rail is important to our local communities. Thanks for helping us to confirm what matters to you. The Oregon and Washington departments of transportation continue to look for ways to improve passenger rail service and to increase ridership. Amtrak Cascades is a key element in our transportation system. Passenger trains connect people from all over the region to work, entertainment, families, schools, friends, medical services and events, forming a vital part of our region’s economic future. Many passengers on Amtrak Cascades trains own cars but prefer traveling by train. Others rely solely on alternative

modes of transportation and find Amtrak Cascades to be a great choice as they plan their travel between cities. Everyone knows that Amtrak Cascades offers an environmentally friendly and safe mode of transportation that benefits all of us. I’d also like to remind you that football season is underway. Cheer on your team and take the train to the games. Enjoy time with your friends and family without having to contend with freeway traffic. Amtrak Cascades and ODOT have partnered with the University of Oregon to offer a 25 percent discount for travel to the Ducks’ home games. This fall, you can also save 25 percent when traveling between any of Amtrak Cascade’s eighteen stops by purchasing your tickets two weeks in advance. Check out the Amtrak Cascades website for this and other deals. Thanks again for your continued support of intercity passenger rail in the Pacific Northwest. In the upcoming years, we look forward to exciting improvements, including more daily trips between Portland and Seattle and increased on-time performance. I’m excited about the future of rail travel in our state and I hope to see you on the train soon!

ontrakmag.com

OREGON The Benson*, Portland WASHINGTON The Governor, a Coast Hotel, Olympia Coast Gateway Hotel, Seattle Coast Bellevue Hotel, Bellevue Coast Wenatchee Center, Wenatchee ALASKA Coast International Inn, Anchorage HAWAII Waimea Plantation Cottages, Kauai

*photo - The Benson Hotel lobby in downtown Portland

COASTHOTELS.COM / 1.800.663.1144

We are also proud to offer 34 distinct properties in Western Canada and the U.S.

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route

Co-Publisher - Heather Huston Johnson Co-Publisher - Ross Johnson

PURVEYOR TO THOSE SEEKING THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE.

Editor - Kevin Max Editor at Large - Sarah Max Managing Editor - Megan Oliver Cross-media Manager - Cathy Carroll Content Producer - Anna Bird Lead Designer - Crystal Jeffers Assistant Designer - Talia Jean Galvin Illustrator - Brendan Loscar Sales & Marketing Coordinator - Kelly Alexander Digital | Social Media- McKenna Dempsey, Ryan Manies, Cassondra Schindler Office Manager - Cindy Cowmeadow Advertising Account Executives Fletcher Beck, Susan Crow, Ronnie Harrelson, Kate Knox, Kristie La Chance, Hillary Ross, Lisa Schwartz

1859 Media Advertising 541.550.7081 1859media.com

facebook.com/OnTrakMag facebook.com/AmtrakCascades @OnTrakMag @Amtrak_Cascades Published by 1859 Media, LLC PMB 335, 70 SW Century Dr., Suite 100 Bend, Oregon 97702 All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of 1859 Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. OnTrak and 1859 Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management. 1859 Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is praCtiCed in an environmentally responsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. This issue of OnTrak was printed by AmeriCan Web on reCyCled paper using inks Containing blend of soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of the Forestry Stewardship CounCil (FSC) and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), and meets or exCeeds all federal ResourCe Conservation ReCovery ACt (RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or reCyCle it. We Can have a better world if we Choose it together.

Contributors

FALL 2015

Ryan MacDonald

Photographer - “Entering Layers of Meaning” on page 28.

Ryan MacDonald is a Canadian portrait and wedding photographer. She grew up in a tiny, close-knit fishing community on the culturally rich island of Cape Breton, and followed her heart across the country to live in Victoria, British Columbia. She currently spends her time working throughout the Maritimes and the West Coast.

Brendan Loscar

James Sinks

Oregon native Brendan Loscar has been drawing since he could hold a pencil. With a focus on illustration and graphic design, he loves to create. His passion for exploration, video games and cartoons exudes from his work. In this issue of OnTrak, he designs and illustrates the imaginative adventures of the dynamic duo, Sam and Ann Trak.

James Sinks didn’t follow in the footsteps of his great grandfather, who worked for the Great Northern railway, but he enjoys engineering tales about the people and places in the Pacific Northwest. An awardwinning reporter at several Oregon newspapers, he and his family live in Salem.

Illustrator - Games on the Train

Jane Ahern

Writer - “The Last Railroad War”

Jane Ahern is a freelance writer based in Madras, Oregon. Since earning a University of Oregon journalism degree in 1990, she has had several careers. including time as an overseas English teacher, a legal assistant and a librarian. Three years into her current occupation as a stay-at-home mom, she finally put her degree to use, writing for a variety of publications. Her home is less than a mile from Harriman’s Deschutes railroad tracks.

Writer - Weekender, “Capitol Gains”

Julie H. Case

Writer - “Pacific Northwest on the Palate”

Julie H. Case is a wine, travel, and geek culture writer who has contributed to Virtuoso Life, Sunset, Alaska Airlines Magazine, The Clever Root, AAA Journey, Wired and more. When not on assignment she can be found foraging for mushrooms, snowboarding, working with Wounded Warriors or concocting something in the kitchen. Eugene Pavlov

| FALL 2015

ontrakmag.com

416 nw 12th ave portland or 97209 Rundholz Trippen Shoes Moyuru Japan

physicalelement.com

On exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society

June 26 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; December 7, 2015

A WORLD AT WAR, A STATE TRANSFORMED

Save $2 on admission! Use the coupon code OnTrak and save $2 on admission for each person in your party. Valid through December 7, 2015.

1200 SW Park Ave., Portland, OR 97205 www.ohs.org

Digital Experience FALL 2015

EXTENDED GALLERY

Mobile

A WOODSY GATHERING OF MOTORCYCLE MAVENS

Contests

Kanani Pearl Spa, Portland

EXP

SURE

Photo Contest

John Waller

The Dream Roll

See photos of this year’s Dream Roll, a women’s only motorcycle rally and camp-out by Mt. Adams. This annual August rendezvous in the woods unites women motorcyclists from various backgrounds. ontrakmag.com/gallery

Train Tracks Let our curated list of Pacific Northwest regional musicians be the soundtrack to your next PNW adventure Listen here:

ontrakmag.com/traintracks 16

| FALL 2015

BE A

WINNER Relax and rejuvenate with a Portland getaway *Two roundtrip Amtrak Cascades tickets. *A spa-day package at Kanani Pearl Spa for two. *Two nights’ lodging at the Inn at Northrup Station. Enter at ontrakmag.com/contest

ontrakmag.com

Betsy Katz

Snap a great shot and win cool stuff from OnTrak. Send us your photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure

ontrakmag.com

DISCOVER PORTLAND Hotel Modera is YOUR full service boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Portland. Located on the Portland Mall between SW 5th and 6th Avenues, Hotel Modera is just steps away from the best of Portland’s shopping, restaurants, and cultural venues.

Use the code below to receive 15% off our Best Available Rate! Enter Promotional Code “OnTrak”

The courtyard features an innovative Living Wall and glass-filled fire pits. Each room is indulged with crisp designer linens, flat panel HD TVs, iPod docking stations, and Italian Tarocco bath products.

MAGIC

Knows No Season Step aside, away from the mainstream, to a place where autumn explodes with flavor and winter sparkles with merriment. In the San Juan Islands enchantment is a year-round event.

Enjoy complimentary in-room WiFi and daily passes to 24 Hour Fitness! 515 SW Clay St || Portland, OR 97201

877-484-1084 ||

www.hotelmodera.com

M O R E T H AN J US T A DAY AT THE BEACH!

Savor the San Juans

Cozy Island Holidays

in October. Indulge yourself with wineries, galleries, farm tours, harvest dinners, or just a snug ﬁreside for two.

in November - December make every day a celebration. Come to the islands for shopping, caroling, tree lightings, ﬁlm festivals & feasting.

INSPIR ATION FOR THE SENSES V i s i t S a n J u a n s .co m

REQUEST YOUR FREE GUIDE: SeasideOR.com | 888.306.2326 VisitSeasideOR

@VisitSeasideOR

Lopez Island • Orcas Island • San Juan Island / Friday Harbor

Business 19. Green Biz | 20. Q&A

AquaTerra BY SOPHIA MCDONALD

Beaver Lake in Vancouver’s Stanley park is under threat from invasive water lilies and sediment infilling. AquaTerra is developing a plan to restore the vanishing lake.

GROWING UP, CHRIS LEE’S bedroom was home to a menagerie of fish, amphibians, lizards, birds and small mammals. “That quickly spread to other areas of the house,” he said. “One year, when I was about 12, we opened a zoo in the backyard and charged the neighborhood kids 25 cents admission,” said the principal biologist of AquaTerra Environmental. “When other children were asking for toys, I was asking for fish tanks and animal skulls.” It did not come as a surprise to anyone who knew him when Lee opted to study biological sciences. That led to a master’s degree with a focus on adult Pacific salmon. Following a short stint at Fisheries and Oceans Canada, Lee wanted to figure out the most efficient way to initiate positive change in the environment. He decided to consult directly with clients in the private and public sectors. In 2007, he founded AquaTerra, an environmental consulting, design, management and implementation company with ten employees, based in Port Moody. Since its inception, AquaTerra has worked on several notable projects including a wildlife management project for a highway, the Burrard Inlet oil spill and Metro Vancouver Park and Trail plans. “Design and implementation of habitat enhancement and restoration measures for degraded habitats are some of our most rewarding projects,” said Lee. Often, clients approach AquaTerra seeking simple strategies for environmental stewardship. “At AquaTerra, we demonstrate ways to be an environmental steward while improving efficiencies and reducing maintenance costs, which is a win-win situation,” he explained. The work the company is doing to help restore a vanishing lake in Vancouver’s Stanley Park is a prime example. The AquaTerra team put together a long-ranging plan to end the lake’s infilling while restoring its biodiversity for generations to come.

Michael Schmidt

ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

A SIT DOWN Q A BY FELISA ROGERS

Robotics Meets Business WORKING FROM A GARAGE, Team Axis—a group of thirteen high schoolers in Lake Oswego—created an award-winning robot. Coached by University of Portland business professor Gary Mitchell and his wife, Veronica, the students competed against 127 international teams, taking home the FIRST (For Inspiration and Recognition of Science and Technology) Tech Challenge award for mastering robot intelligence in April. Mitchell, 52, facilitates the connection between science, creativity and real-world business skills.

Gary Mitchell

Business professor at University of Portland and robotics coach for Team Axis

Can you tell us more about the robot? The team’s winning robot is named Oscar. Oscar is a big cube, and was quite heavy for a FIRST Tech Challenge robot, topping out at seventy-one pounds. The kids do all the design. They decided they liked the extra mass because it made the robot more stable and less likely to be disrupted by other robots that would run into it during a round. Oscar did really well in the autonomous phase of the competition, when the robots store balls in a goal without operator intervention. How did the team react to being at the FIRST Tech Challenge World Championship in St. Louis? 20

| FALL 2015

You know, that was the best time the team had all season. They interacted with kids from all over the U.S., as well as China, South Korea, Russia, Canada and Mexico. They really loved the experience. It was pretty wild. Aside from building awardwinning robots, what other activities define Team Axis? They’ve been interacting over the summer, mostly with outreach activities. For example, the team built a course and went to a Muscular Dystrophy Association camp to give children with muscular dystrophy an opportunity to drive some robots and see what robotics is all about. It was neat to watch the team interact with the campers,

NashCO Photography

and to see the campers’ enthusiasm for robotics. You and your wife both have careers in business. Were you able to apply your professional backgrounds on this project? Yeah, we absolutely do apply all of our professional background to what we do with these kids. We have a team of kids that’s dedicated to business outreach. They do all of our brochures and business cards. They plan and manage our outreach events. They really give the overall team a sense of what it takes to make a business work. The engineers have to work with the programmers; they all have to work with the business development people.

What’s your favorite aspect of coaching? Most kids come into these projects and they’re great students. They’re getting As in all their classes, but they don’t have that connection to “What kind of problems do I solve with this?” That’s maybe the most fun I get to have—when they’re puzzling over how to solve something. I get to pose those questions that make them dig deep and realize that something they’ve learned in geometry or calculus or physics is the answer to the problem they’re trying to solve. I get to show the kids how what they’re learning in their high school science and math classes relates to the real world. To see photos of students and their robots, go to ontrakmag.com/robotics ontrakmag.com

Plan your South Willamette Valley Winery getaway at EugeneCascadesCoast.org/Pinot | 800.547.5445

Culture

23. Culinary | 24. Music | 25. On Stage | 27. Events

Chef Spotlight BY MICHELLE HOPKINS

IN VANCOUVER’S CULINARY circles, Andrea Carlson is credited with creating the first Canadian restaurant based solely on the 100-Mile Diet, in which all ingredients are sourced from within a 100-mile radius. Today, the devoted farm-to-table executive chef is co-owner of the highly touted Main Street eatery, Burdock & Co. Here, the native Vancouverite continues to craft her edible mastery from wild herbs, sustainable fish and meats, and seasonal produce brought to her from farmers with whom she has built long-term relationships. She is also using the first locally grown rice—an Agassiz rice that is in Burdock’s Asian-infused congee with salt-cured wild halibut. Carlson’s deep, earthy roots grew when she worked at the internationally renowned Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island. “For eight months, I was surrounded and completely, selflessly focused on the organic garden, the ocean and nature,” she said. “It was an amazing experience that helped me find my focus.” At Burdock & Co., simplicity is at the core of every dish, including the popular buttermilk bison ribs and the caramelized pork and fennel ragu. “I try not to manipulate things too much or dilute the dishes,” she said, adding that her favorite cookbook is Craig Claiborne’s The New York Times Cookbook she bought when she was 13. “I like to go for lighter flavors so the food speaks for itself without distraction.” When Carlson isn’t dreaming of new ways to use herbs grown in the Burdock & Co. garden, she heads to the woods or the beach for a long walk before going out for Indian food or “really good” pasta. Alison Page

ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

Musicians

CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING

Hey Marseilles BY STIRLING MYLES

If ever there’s a lyric that bottles the essence of Seattle-based Hey Marseilles, it’s in their song “Looking Back.” It warns,“If you’re looking back, you’ll never move your feet / If you’re looking back, that’s all you’ll ever see.” This seven-piece orchestral-pop ensemble follows its own advice, embracing music with a sense of maturity and comfortable exploration of any influence that strikes them in the moment. Led by wayfaring, road-weary lyricism from songwriter Matt Bishop, the band pays homage to traditional folk storytelling, backed by a lush bedding of accordion, strings and horns. Their stories cut to a universal, emotional core that resonates on a personal level. When they released their debut album To Travels and Trunks in 2008, it served as an unfettered sense of travel and exploration and was ranked as one of the best Pacific Northwest al24

| FALL 2015

bums of the year by many publications. With the band’s 2013 release, Lines We Trace—and a wealth of touring experience—they grew up even more. A new al-

bum, titled LP3, is expected later this year, as Hey Marseilles continues following its wanderlust on tour, and inspiring people along the way.

Album Review LP3

Train Tracks

In the spirit of exploration, Hey Marseilles has swapped its acoustic instruments for electronic ones in the newest album, LP3. Even after plugging in, their keen sense of catchy folk-pop songwriting remains. The band has teamed up with three-time Grammy award-winning producer Anthony Kihoffer and shows no signs of slowing down. Catch a preview of the album at ontrakmag.com/heymarseilles

A few music tracks from regional artists for your journey Listen here: ontrakmag.com/traintracks

To Travels and Trunks Hey Marseilles - Seattle, WA

Starts With Them, Ends With Us

Dan Mangan + Blacksmith Vancouver, BC

55th & Halsey

His Name Shall Breathe - Salem, OR

Love and Oceans

The Dimes - Vancouver, WA

Indigo

Old Wave - Portland, OR

ontrakmag.com

On Stage SHAPE & FORM

Entering Layers of Meaning BY EDWINE VENIAT

Ryan MacDonald April Ponsford with "The West Coast," which was inspired by a drive from Vancouver Island to Tofino, BC.

WHEN ART CATCHES LIFE, and then seems to go beyond it, the experience is hypnotic. This quality is present in abstract artist April Ponsford's work. Ponsford was born in 1951 in British Columbia, where nature and wilderness put on a daily breathtaking performance. “I paint the way the world reveals itself to me,” she said about her creative process. “I have always been an observer. Years of self-study have enabled me to develop my own way of expressing tenderness and evoking stories within all my imageries.” She uses blurred lines that are inspired by nature and the abstract. Her work focuses on simplicity yet opens a structural world to its audience. It catches a moment in life, then turns it into eternity. “I resist restrictions or formal limitations, and challenge myself to experiment and work more from the observation of ontrakmag.com

nature,” said Ponsford. “My intuition plays an increasingly important role as I continually learn to embrace spontaneity and control within my creative process.” The hypnotic quality to her work is engaged when the eye is caught in a snare of lines and layers. As abstract as it may be, there is something strangely familiar about her images—perhaps it’s the unity in Ponsford’s lines and strokes. Her piece, “Underlying Forces,” punctuates layers of life with touches of cloudy blue, furious red and golden traces, while a mystical waterfall looms over a dreamlike floating world. Everything inside the world seems to cry out for freedom. With every glance, it is possible to discover something you hadn't noticed before. While working as an educational assistant for two decades, Ponsford used art as a doorway for helping children

to express themselves. Eventually, her co-workers asked her to teach art classes, so she enrolled in educational art classes at University of Victoria. It was there that an art teacher noticed her talent and encouraged her to pursue her own painting in abstract form. “It has always been of great importance to me to express an emotional connectedness to nature’s dynamics,” said Ponsford. She hopes that her art will continue to bring about dialogue and “gain meaning through this interaction between the creation and the viewer.” Ponsford is represented by Ukama Gallery (ukama.ca) in Vancouver, BC, where her exclusive exhibition will run in November. More photos of Ponsford's work at ontrakmag.com/onstage

FALL 2015 |

Exclusive and international woman’s brands, boots, jewelry, gifts and more…

SEEING NATURE LANDSCAPE MASTERWORKS FROM THE PAUL G. ALLEN FAMILY COLLECTION

October 10, 2015 – January 10, 2016

RACHELLE M. RUSTIC HOUSE OF FASHION Portland in the Pearl

132 NW 12th Ave., corner of 12th & Davis, near Whole Foods

971-319-6934

In the Bridgeport Village

across from the main parking garage, where Tigard, Tualatin & Lake Oswego meet

503-336-0546

Open Monday - Saturday 10:00 am - 9:00 pm • Sunday 11:00 am - 6:00 pm

www.rachellem.com

NG ELLI TON H CE

OWN

GS DBA AN

SIN

handbags ED A

OP E

RATED

This exhibition is co-organized by Portland Art Museum, Seattle Art Museum, and the Paul G. Allen Family Collection

portlandartmuseum.org This exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities. Thomas Moran, Grand Canyon of Arizona at Sunset, 1909, Oil on canvas, Paul G. Allen Family Collection

Mention OnTrak and receive 20% off any regular priced item.

NW 23rd

1211 NW 23rd Avenue Portland, OR • 97210 503-542-3149 ellingtonhandbags.com

OREGON EVENTS CALENDAR

ALBANY Oyster Cloyster November 7 Oregon Coast Aquarium $75-$175 oystercloyster.com Oregon-based chefs compete to see who can prepare the best oyster dish, and guests enjoy hearty bounty, Oregon wine and Rogue beer as they explore the aquarium after hours. Casino games and live music are also on the menu.

SALEM BRUNK HOUSE APPLE FESTIVAL October 10 Historical Brunk House Free polkcountyhistoricalsociety.org Bring the whole family to the historic Brunk House to celebrate fall. You’ll get the chance to help make cider on an antique apple press and try a variety of apple desserts and ciders. Ray Terrill

Portland Timbers Portland

October 25 $35-$182 timbers.com

ATTENDING A PORTLAND TIMBERS soccer game has become a can’t-miss event in Portland–that is if you can get a ticket. The stadium has sold out every home game since the team joined Major League Soccer in 2011, and more than 10,000 people are on the waitlist to get season tickets. The most loyal fans call themselves the Timbers Army, and they lead the stadium in cheers throughout the games. The Major League Soccer season ends in late October, but there is still a chance to grab some friends and family and some green and white Timbers gear and catch a home game this fall. No tickets? No problem. Portland Timbers partners with a host of Portland pubs where you can belly up with fellow fans and enjoy a match with plenty of food and drinks. THE STATION | 2703 NE Alberta Street | stationpdx.com

RINGLERS PUB | 1332 W Burnside Street | mcmenamins.com

442 SOCCER BAR | 1739 SE Hawthorne Blvd. | 442soccerbar.com

For a complete list of the Pub Program, go to timbers.com.

ontrakmag.com

EUGENE CIRQUE DE LA LUNE October 9-11 Hult Center for the Performing Arts $13-$49 balletfantastique.org Cirque de la Lune is an original ballet from Eugene choreographers and producers who bring the fun and excitement of the circus atmosphere to the traditional stage of the ballet. ANNUAL CLAY FEST October 9-11 Lane Events Center Free clayfest.org Visitors to the seventeenth annual Clay Fest have the opportunity to buy handmade pieces from seventy clay artisans from across Oregon. In the discovery area, kids can learn how to work with clay and can make their own pieces. MOUNT PISGAH ARBORETUM MUSHROOM FESTIVAL October 25 Mount Pisgah Arboretum Suggested donation mountpisgaharboretum.com Along with a wide selection of mushrooms for purchase, the festival will offer culinary demonstrations, live music, and guided nature walks all day at the Arboretum. MCKENZIE CIDER & CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL November 13 Willamalane Center for Sports and Recreation $15 mccbf.com In the fourth annual McKenzie Cider & Craft Beer festival, visitors can taste seventy ciders and beers from the Northwest. Kids are welcome at the festival from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturday.

OREGON CITY HALLOWEEN FANTASY TRAIL October 1-31 Wenzel Farm Free fantasytrail.com The fantasy trail is 1,000 feet of wooded walkways through the decorated Wenzel Farm. On the trail, you’ll also encounter a forty-foot castle, suspension bridge, tunnel and maze.

PORTLAND PORTLAND CENTER STAGE PRESENTS: OUR TOWN Through October 11 Portland Center Stage Gerding Theater at the Armory $25-$30 pcs.org Portland Center Stage presents its revival of the classic, Pulitzer Prize-winning play, Our Town. Set in the early twentieth century, Thornton Wilder’s drama follows the everyday lives of a group of people in a small town with themes that still resonate today. CORN MAiZE Through November 1 The Pumpkin Patch $7 portlandmaze.com Now open for almost two decades, the corn maze at The Pumpkin Patch on Sauvie Island gets families out of the city to enjoy beautiful farms. WORLD WAR II: A WORLD AT WAR, A STATE TRANSFORMED Through December 7 Oregon History Museum $11 ohs.org In the seventieth year after World War II ended, the Oregon History Museum presents an exhibit of documents and photographs that explore how the war transformed Oregon.

SIXTH ANNUAL PORTLAND FERMENTATION FESTIVAL October 27 Ecotrust $10-$20 portlandfermentationfestival.com Expand your palate for fermented flavors at this annual Portland event. There will be dozens of fermented foods and beverages to sample along with recipes and tips for making your own at home. SEEING NATURE: LANDSCAPE MASTERWORKS FROM THE PAUL G. ALLEN COLLECTION Begins October 10 Portland Art Museum Free-$15 portlandartmuseum.org Paul Allen, the multibillion dollar cofounder of Microsoft, has also built a legacy as an avid art collector and supporter of the arts. This fall, pieces in his family collection will be on exhibit at the Portland Art Museum. WORDSTOCK November 7 Portland Art Museum literary-arts.org Wordstock is the largest literary event in the Pacific Northwest. The one-day festival will include author discussions, readings and activities for the entire family. Since it is Portland, there will also be craft beer and food trucks. BALLGOWNS TO BLOOMERS: SPOTLIGHT ON THE CLOTHING COLLECTION Through November 15 Pittock Mansion Free-$7 pittockmansion.org This exhibit will showcase the variety of clothing that is in the Pittock Mansion and place the fashions in the context of Portland history. 20TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY ALE FESTIVAL December 2-6 Pioneer Courthouse Square $35 holidayale.com This 21-and-over event features Oregon’s craft beers made especially for the holiday season. For five days, vendors will showcase fifty craft beers that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. OREGON BALLET THEATRE PRESENTS: THE NUTCRACKER Begins December 12 Keller Auditorium $30-$150 obt.org Oregon Ballet Theatre’s performance of The Nutcracker is a Portland holiday tradition. With exciting music and beautiful costumes, everyone in the family will be inspired by this ballet.

FALL 2015 |

All aboard the Winter Express to Bellingham! 2 night stay any day of the week Side view or full view deluxe room Taxi fare to & from the Amtrak station Fun train-themed amenities

$359 + tax *Not available with any other promotions or discounts. Rates valid Oct 1, 2015 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 30, 2016. Some restrictions may apply. Must present train ticket. 804 10th St Bellingham WA

(888) 808-0005

thechrysalisinn.com

Washington EVENTS CALENDAR

VANCOUVER DRINK THIS! VANCOUVER October 24 Downtown Vancouver Free drinkthisvancouver.com From 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., you’ll have the chance to walk around the heart of downtown Vancouver and get to know the artisan beverages of the city as well as the people who make them. FARMERS’ MARKET Saturdays and Sundays through November 1 Downtown Vancouver Free vancouverfarmersmarket.com The Vancouver Farmers’ Market has at least 250 vendors selling fresh, local produce and artisan goods.

OLYMPIA/LACEY OLYMPIA FILM FESTIVAL November 6-15 Capitol Theater $10-$25 olympiafilmsociety.org Thousands of people have gathered in Washington’s capital city for the last twenty years for the Olympia Film Festival, which features ten days of films, panels and workshops highlighting independent films and filmmakers.

TACOMA HOLIDAY FOOD & GIFT FESTIVAL October 22-25 Tacoma Dome Free-$14.50 tacomadome.org This Holiday Food & Gift Festival is the largest event of its kind in the West. One of the highlights includes cooking demonstrations, at which some of the region’s top chefs teach audiences how to cook traditional and flavorful holiday meals.

SEATTLE INTIMATE IMPRESSIONISM FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART Begins October 1 Seattle Art Museum Free-$19.50 seattleartmuseum.org The Seattle Art Museum will host the Intimate Impressionism exhibit, which is on tour for the first time from the National Gallery of Art. Almost seventy paintings will be on display from turnof-the-century French master impressionists. MAPLE VIEWING FESTIVAL October 11 Seattle Japanese Garden Free-$6 seattlejapanesegarden.org Gaze at the incredible display of colors from the Garden’s maple trees and enjoy live performances of traditional Japanese music.

ontrakmag.com

Jema Anderson

Apple Festival

September 26-October 31 Olympia Free, $5 to park lattinscider.com

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR an escape from the city this fall, you’ll want to venture out to Lattin’s Country Cider Mill & Farm. The farm, which is only a short drive or bus ride from the Olympia-Lacey Amtrak Cascades station, is known for its national award-winning apple cider. Each year, for six weekends, the farm hosts its Apple Festival. Enjoy music and activities each day along with classic harvest festivities such as wagon rides to the pumpkin patch, bobbing for apples, a small petting farm and more.

PUMPKIN BASH October 18-19, 25-26, 31 Woodland Park Zoo Free with zoo admission or membership zoo.org Bring the whole family to the zoo for activities, crafts and trick-ortreating. The zoo animals get their own pumpkins as treats every year, and guests get to watch as the hippos, elephants, meerkats and bears munch their way through the pumpkins. HALLOWEEN TRAIN October 24-31 Northwest Railway Museum Free trainmuseum.org To celebrate fall and Halloween, the Northwest Railway Museum hosts a train ride with Halloween-themed activities and warm apple cider.

DIA DE MUERTOS October 31-November 1 Seattle Center Free seattlecenter.com Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is a traditional Mexican holiday that celebrates the memory of people who have died. In Seattle, the holiday is celebrated with live music, food and a traditional altar offering. 70TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY TREE LIGHTING November 28 Pantages Theater Free broadwaycenter.org The Holiday Tree Lighting has been a Seattle tradition for the last seventy years. At this free event, the community can sing carols and take photographs with Santa.

EDMONDS SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL COMEDY COMPETITION SEMI-FINALS November 18 $15-$34 edmondscenterforthearts.com For nearly forty years, the Seattle International Comedy Competition has featured talented comedians from the Pacific Northwest and is one of the largest touring comedy festivals in the United States.

EVERETT DISNEY ON ICE: FROZEN November 18-22 XFINITY Arena $32-$87 disneyonice.com All those songs you couldn’t get out of your head last year are

back—and now they’re live. The classic Disney on Ice performances bring Elsa, Anna and Olaf to a real-life frozen stage.

BELLINGHAM 26TH ANNUAL LYNDEN CRAFT & ANTIQUE SHOW October 15-17 Washington Fairgrounds Free-$6 lyndencraftantiqueshow.com The Lynden Craft & Antique Show will feature antiques along with over one hundred artisans and their handcrafted goods. There will also be seasonal drinks and food for purchase.

FALL 2015 |

See

ALBANY

Hit the road and experience Oregon’s dynamic landscapes

Discover Oregon

Stroll among more than 700

>> historic homes and buildings in >> See Albany Oregon’s four historic districts.

Seven Wondrous

atch wood-carvers bring >> W Journeys menagerie of hand-crafted

carousel animals to life.

elebrate the beauty of hot air >> Cballoons Call today and begin >> at the award-winning

planning your next trip!

Northwest Art & Air Festival.

NOW ON VIEW 541-928-0911 • 110 3rd Ave SE, Albany OR 97321

1680 E. 15th Ave. · 541-346-3024 · natural-history.uoregon.edu · Tuesday–Sunday, 11:00 a.m. –5:00 p.m.

Vancouver, BC EVENTS CALENDAR

OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN November 18 Vancouver Aquarium TBA vanaqua.org The Chowder Chowdown hosts a competition among chefs to create the best seafood chowder in Canada, and all of the proceeds go toward sustainable seafood. This 19-and-over event also features some of the best chowder and craft beer in Canada. (IN)VISIBLE: THE SPIRITUAL WORLD OF TAIWAN THROUGH CONTEMPORARY ART Begins November 20 UBC Museum of Anthropology C$9-$44.75 moa.ubc.ca Seven visual artists from the University of British Columbia explore the spiritual and cultural traditions of Taiwan and how they are integrated with the modern values of the country.

Jodie Ponto

19th Annual Eastside Culture Crawl November 19-22 Vancouver Free culturecrawl.ca

At the annual Eastside Culture Crawl spread throughout Vancouver's Eastside, visitors have the opportunity to visit a variety of art galleries and studios, and see how the artists work. For almost twenty years, the Culture Crawl has drawn tens of thousands of people to a fourday event that highlights dozens of artists in Vancouver. The artist’s studios and galleries stay open late to the public and showcase the work of local artists with international reputations. With presentations and exhibitions on the agenda throughout the long weekend, the event is much more than a gallery walk—it’s a chance to learn about the variety of art being created in the heart of Vancouver while supporting local culture.

ontrakmag.com

TEA AND TOUR Every Sunday Roedde House Museum C$8 roeddehouse.org Every Sunday at the Roedde House, families can enjoy artisan tea crafted especially for the historic house. Also, the museum showcases early twentieth-century life in Vancouver. ART/BOOK FAIR October 17-18 Vancouver Art Gallery Free 2015.vancouverartbookfair.com The Vancouver Art/Book Fair is one of two international book fairs on the West Coast. The event hosts publishers and booksellers from around the world, as well as performances and installations from artists. VANCOUVER HOME + DESIGN SHOW October 22-25 Vancouver Convention Centre West C$16 vancouverhomeanddesignshow. com Whether you’re a design fanatic or just in need of some creative inspiration, the Vancouver Home + Design Show will have something for you. There will be 300 exhibitors showcasing the newest and most innovative work

in design, entertaining and home improvement. EMBRACING CANADA: LANDSCAPES FROM KRIEGHOFF TO THE GROUP OF SEVEN Begins October 30 Vancouver Art Gallery Free-C$50 vanartgallery.ca Admire the vast natural beauty of Canada through landscape paintings of the country from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. WINTER MARKET Begins November 1 4601 Ontario Street Free eatlocal.org Beginning November 1, the winter farmers’ market opens in downtown Vancouver, so you won’t be without fresh and local produce and other bounty throughout the season.

CHRISTMAS MARKET November 21-December 24 Queen Elizabeth Theatre Plaza Free to C$10 vancouverchristmasmarket.com With food, warm drinks and a variety of activities, the Vancouver Christmas Market is a place for much more than finding holiday gifts. The market is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day and will host live entertainment. HOPSCOTCH FESTIVAL November 23-28 PNE Forum C$45-$50 hopscotchfestival.com For its twentieth anniversary celebration, the Hopscotch Festival promises to provide more than 300 beers, whiskeys and spirits to sample from more than 100 vendors. Located in the historic PNE Forum, the festival will also offer gourmet food to sample and live music. BRIGHT NIGHTS IN STANLEY PARK November 26-January 2 Stanley Park Donation, need to purchase tickets to ride the train brightnights.ca For more than twenty years, riding the holiday train through the bright lights and decorations and performances has been a Vancouver tradition.

BROADWAY ACROSS CANADA PRESENTS: ONCE November 17-22 Queen Elizabeth Theatre C$93-$210 vancouver.broadway.com Once started as an independent film that received international recognition for its compelling love story and amazing soundtrack, and now it’s a Broadway musical.

FALL 2015 |

Mississippi District

ECO MODERN VACATION RENTALS IN PORTLAND'S HIPPEST NEIGHBORHOODS

Alberta Arts District

Front Break |4 bedrooms & 2 baths with a modern farmhouse feel. Rear Break |5 bedrooms & 3 baths, a new eco luxury home.

ATION R ENTALS

High Gear|4 bedrooms & 2 baths with creative artistic design. Low Gear |3 bedrooms & 1.5 baths with a warm organic style.

shift

VAC AT I ON REN TA LS

VACATION RENTALS

VACAT ION R EN SHIFTVAC ATIONRE NTALS.COM 503-867-0900

VAC AT I ON REN TA LS

SHIFTVAC ATIONRE NTALS.COM 503-867-0900

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0

C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0

C:51 M:42 Y:41 K

Outdoors

33. Outdoors | 34. Gear Up | 36. Notes from the Adventure | 40. Weekenders

Legends of the Lake UW Crew Coach Michael Callahan gracefully glides into another season BY CORINNE WHITING PHOTOS BY KAIA D’ALBORA

STANDING ON THE NORTH edge of Lake Union beneath an azure sky—mighty Rainier rising behind the Seattle cityscape, synchronized rowers slicing across the water—University of Washington men’s crew coach Michael Callahan is a familiar figure. UW’s men’s rowing team has an especially rich history. In 1903, at a time when Seattle desired to be more than a pioneer town, an estimated 5,000 people showed up to witness the first intercollegiate rowing race between California and Washington. The legacy of UW rowing is among the world’s elite with legends such as hull-maker George Pocock and coach Al Ulbrickson. Husky Crew teams have won countless championships, including forty-two Olympic medals. Callahan, now in his twelfth year at UW and eighth year as the head coach of the Washington men's team, helped establish Husky Crew as a modern force in world rowing. Before coaching, Callahan built his own impressive résumé on collegiate, national and Olympic rowing teams (he graduated from University of Washington in 1996). Among Callahan’s feats—in June 2015, the Washington men’s crew made history by winning their fifth straight and eighteenth overall IRA National Championship and ninth straight Ten Eyck trophy, an achievement previously unseen in collegiate rowing. Callahan has now led the Huskies to five straight national ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

Outdoors

LEARN The Pacific Northwest has always been a center of excellence for rowing. There are a number of rowing clubs throughout the region, all of which offer learn-to-row classes. Here are Callahan’s recommendations:

Lake Washington Rowing Club

lakewashingtonrowing.com In Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood, get the experience of taking Learn to Row classes in single-person boats. ABOVE The UW crew team practices in Lake Union. LEFT Coach Michael Callahan helped establish Husky Crew as a modern force in world rowing.

Lake Union Crew

lakeunioncrew.com In Seattle’s Westlake, find year-round, fourweek-long, learn-to-row programs.

Mount Baker Rowing and Sailing Center

On the shores of Lake Washington, join an adult program or a junior crew program for novice and varsity rowers.

championships, six during his eight seasons. Thirteen of his rowers have gone on to become Olympians. Callahan, who thinks his team would describe him as “challenging, passionate and fair,” has received praise for pushing his athletes in academics as well as on the water. In spring 2014, the Husky men’s crew had the highest team GPA of UW’s large sports teams. “We talk about excellence being fluid—we expect our student-athletes to be passionate and push themselves 34

| FALL 2015

in multiple areas,” Callahan said. “Interestingly, our best athletes also tend to be our best students.” Pondering this year’s outlook, Callahan is optimistic, though the team graduated a large group of talented seniors. “Even with this youth, we have high hopes for them and expect that we will once again be competing for a national championship,” he said. The most trying part of Callahan’s job is the constant evolution. “The challenging and rewarding parts of the team come hand-in-hand,”

Callahan commented. “Because each team is different, I find myself constantly having to adapt and tweak our process, which causes a lot of self-reflection. This constant change and adaption is tough but also very rewarding.” After twelve years of soggy training and racing, his spirits are undiminished. “There aren’t many experiences that beat being on the water at sunrise on a clear day… or even on a rainy day!” he said. To see more photos of the UW crew team, go to ontrakmag.com/legends

DON'T MISS

The Montlake Cut is UW’s home racecourse and is one of the best places in the world to watch a rowing race because of its intimate atmosphere. “You feel like you are on top of the races,” said Callahan. Go to GoHuskies.com for UW crew schedule. ontrakmag.com

Go where the night takes you The Postcard That’s Real We’re Oceanfront & Newly Remodeled NEWPORT OR Every Room Has a View Georgie’s Beachside Grill Pet & Family Friendly

CANNON BEACH OR Closest to Haystack Rock Only Hotel Spa in Town Pet & Family Friendly

Downtown Portland’s Eastside Luxury Boutique hoteleastlund.com

NOW OPEN!

503.235.2100

Introductory Rates Starting at $189

844.297.0173 | hallmarkinns.com

STAY | EAT | BE

Notes From The Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN

Talia Galvin

Time Traveling on Trains A present reunion of a past journey BY TIM NEVILLE

It was early in Eugene, Oregon, with the day just a pale blue blade in the sky. Down on Willamette Street, orange light filtered from the station to melt soft bands of the dying night. Inside, people were congregating with suitcases and backpacks. I took a seat on a long wooden bench. The station’s bright yellow walls and tidy craftsman trim seemed almost historic in their appeal, and I 36

| FALL 2015

recalled a time when going somewhere—anywhere— was a really big deal. Posters advertising the various rail lines played on this feeling with that old-school Art Déco style. The Pacific Surfliner, Ski Amtrak, the Empire Builder. Ours, the Amtrak Cascades, would be here soon. I’ve been to Seattle plenty of times but never like this and never with my friend Scott Aycock. I travel a lot these days for work and Scott, a single dad, doesn’t get away as much as he’d like. The Amtrak station is close to some of Eugene’s

biggest attractions, such as the handsome Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art at the University of Oregon and Autzen Stadium where the Ducks play. You can ride bikes along the Ruth Bascom Riverbank paths and see the park where track legend Steve Prefontaine used to run for fun. “It’s more than just a race,” Pre would say. “It’s a style.” Our style began right here at 5:15 a.m. on a crisp fall Friday. Looking around the room, I saw that I wasn’t the only one who felt this sense of relief. Two students in Ducks hoodies relaxed and

chatted, already on their way to somewhere. A young girl climbed on the back of the depot benches. The train arrived right on time. I stepped outside and watched it rumble in. The sound of the bells dinging in rhythmic bursts grew louder as the engine’s headlights shone in triplicate with starlike intensity. Steel squeaked on steel. As the train drifted to a halt, I studied the springs, the levers, the enormous bolts. No wonder kids like locomotives so much. They are giant Erector sets, but now with bistro cars and wi-fi. I first felt the freedom of train travel as a kid thanks to my dad. My father grew up in a small railroad town called Cape Charles, which sits at the southern tip of the Eastern Shore of Virginia. There, engines running down from New York would stop at the broad backstop of the Chesapeake Bay, and passengers would trade trains for steamships bound for Norfolk and other points south. The rolling stock itself would go onto barges for the twenty-mile crossing. There was no bridge until 1960. But for much of my father’s youth, the buzz of the rail yards, the new faces that came and went, the trains that smoked and the ships that steamed all left an indelible impression on him. Later, he helped start a museum in Cape Charles that pays homage to ontrakmag.com

NOV 27 - JAN 3

Meet. Eat. Sleep. %HDXWLIXO *XHVW 5RRPV +RW %UHDNIDVW %XIIHW &RPSOLPHQWDU\ :LIL DQG %XVLQHVV 6HUYLFHV )LQH 'LQLQJ 5HVWDXUDQW 2Q 6LWH 1RUWKZHVW &XLVLQH )XOO %DU )XOO 6HUYLFH &DWHULQJ Minutes from the Salem, Oregon Amtrak Station Complimentary shuttle to and from The Grand Hotel

CMY

at The Oregon Garden minutes from Salem

oregongarden.org

503-540-7800 201 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301 GrandHotelSalem.com info@grandhotelsalem.com

iGnite youR inspiRation as you walk through the Galleries, Garden and Glasshouse, Chihuly Garden and Glass immerses you in dale chihuly’s work in a whole new way.

located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR chihulygardenandglass.com c h i h u ly g a r d e n a n d g l a s s . co m

Outdoors those trains. As for me, growing up I had HO-scale sets and gorgeous models of steam engines that sat on our shelves. Black and white pictures of trains hung on our walls. On family trips, dad often drove us hours out of our way to take scenic rides on steam engines. It wasn’t until I was 18 that I truly understood dad’s passion for the rails. By that time, I was living in Europe as a pimply exchange student enamored with the Alps. Trains were everywhere, of course, and I marveled at how I, a car-less teen, could walk out my front door in Switzerland, catch the 6:32 intercity out of Geneva and ride all the way to Moscow if my host family had let me. I took trains to school on weekdays and trains to go hiking on weekends. It was all so simple, exotic and new. Friends and I would drink wine, eat cheese, play cards or sleep along the way. Another exchange student named John Peterson had become my train buddy in Switzerland. He lived in a small town toward the southern end of Lake Neuchâtel, which, without the train, would have sat an impossible distance away. Sometimes we’d ride in our snowboard boots, ready to meet at a cable car at the base of a ski area on a powder day. The possibilities were huge. John and I had kept in touch for a while once we came back to the States, but eventually the lines faded. A few days before Scott and I took off—almost twen38

| FALL 2015

ty-two years after I’d last seen John waving goodbye at the entrance of the Foggy Bottom metro—an email landed in my inbox. “If you’re the Tim who was an exchange student in Switzerland, then HELLO!!!” it read. “A happy accident spurred me to use a modicum of search-fu, and voilà.” He was living in Seattle, where I was en route by train. Scott and I hadn’t reached our first stop, Albany, when we made the bistro car for breakfast, lured by an announcement over the speakers. “The oatmeal is hot and ready to go!” a voice boomed. “Come down and get your oatmeal!” We took a seat by the window, ate and chatted over coffee. I told Scott how the dining car, with its slick lines and elegant wood finishes, reminded me of the bistro cars of the Deutsche Bahn in Germany. Only here, the ceiling was decorated with a map of the Olympic Peninsula. Salem. Oregon City. The stops came and went as the black fields whipping by the windows gradually brightened to gray and then green in the morning light. A harvester dumped grain into a truck. We zoomed past a forklift rolling down the highway. The humid, sluggish earth exhaled the night. In Portland, we disembarked at Union Station for a few minutes before getting back onboard with snacks. From there, we crossed the Columbia, where the fishermen were casting for steelhead, and then up to Kelso. Word trickled through

the car that thousands of travelers on the East Coast were temporarily stranded due to a glitch in a computer system that routes planes. Scott and I played dominoes in the lounge car.

“Then, almost twenty-two years after I’d last seen John ... an email landed in my inbox.” At last, we pulled into Seattle and checked into a hotel near Pioneer Square, which was one of the city’s first neighborhoods. Buildings such as the Smith Tower, formerly the tallest building on the West Coast and now 100 years old, were soaring examples of the Renaissance Revival architecture in that district. Inside a copper and brass elevator climbs to an observation deck on the thirty-fifth floor for full-circle views of the city. Scott and I meandered to Pike Place Market and found a Cajun joint outside the frenetic tourist spots. We downed warm plates of jambalaya. We then headed next door to a Mexican bar, where John met us. He looked exactly the same—tall, quick to smile and undamaged by time. His bangs weren’t quite so surfer and no longer bound by a bandana. It turned out that after we lost touch, John had moved to Seattle to work for Microsoft. He’d been with the company for thirteen years

when it laid him off. Now he’s a full-time dad raising two kids. He’s been back to Switzerland once. We walked and talked into Belltown. John pointed to where engineers were building a massive new highway tunnel and a building so big that it could serve as a shipping crate for the Space Needle. He said the Burke-Gilman Trail was nearby. Built in the 1970s for bike commuters, walkers and runners, the nineteenmile-long path was one of the first rails-to-trails projects in the country. All of us ended that night at a pizza joint, Serious Pie, and knocked off Holy Mountain beers before heading off to Radiator Whiskey for old fashioneds. We talked about trains and Switzerland as if time had never passed. Over the next few days, we took in a mix of urban and natural delights. Scott and I hiked around the ferny trails of Seward Park on Lake Washington, which used to be an island. Engineers built a shipping canal into Puget Sound that dropped the lake’s water level and exposed a land bridge. We ate tangy kumamoto oysters at Taylor Shellfish and sharp chipotle-tinga tacos at Casco Antiguo. We joined 42,000 soccer fans to watch the Sounders trounce Orlando City four-nil, though it all made Scott uneasy as a Portland Timbers fan. “A pit of vipers,” he called the crowd, only half joking. That night, we people-watched from twenty-two floors up in the hotel, the city rising around us in great columns of light. ontrakmag.com

Discover adventure at Red Lion Hotels. With exciting locations, modern accommodations and a great staff that knows all the best spots in town, the only question is... where to? Book your next adventure at redlion.com

Weekender EAT

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

Sassy Onion Grill

Flavorful breakfasts for an array of palates, plus mimosas and French press coffee. A short walk to the train station. Salem sassyonion.com

Amadeus

Northwest and Mediterranean-influenced menu boasts harissa chicken skewers, risotto, seafood and creative cocktails. Salem amadeussalem.com

Darby’s Café

Hearty, eclectic breakfast and lunch fare (and bloody marys) in a kitschy downtown setting. Olympia darbyscafe.com

Budd Bay Cafe

Surf and turf, salads and desserts, including a bargain sunset menu. The real star is the view overlooking the marina. Olympia buddbaycafe.com

STAY The Grand Hotel

Salem grandhotelsalem.com

Governor Hotel

Olympia olympiagovernorhotel.com

PLAY Salem Cinema

Independent three-screen theater shows art and foreign films. www.salemcinema.com

Olympia Farmers’ Market

Fresh produce and seafood, plus live music as many as four days a week, depending on the season. olympiafarmersmarket.com

Eugene Pavlov

History, Architecture and Politics Combine in a Salem-to-Olympia Tour

Capitol Gains BY JAMES SINKS

POLITICALLY SPEAKING, Oregon and Washington have more in common than a shared border. They lean toward the liberal, rely on similar industries, and meld west-of-the-Cascade-Mountains urban priorities with eastside rural ones. The Northwest neighbors diverge notably, however, when it comes to the architecture of their capitol buildings. The Washington State Legislative Building, on a bluff overlooking Olympia,

Bacon, basil and tomato bruschetta at Amadeus

| FALL 2015

was completed in 1928, on the eve of the Great Depression. It is an American cathedral that has the largest collection of Tiffany-made light fixtures anywhere. More reserved yet still impressive, the Oregon State Capitol in Salem—dedicated in 1938 after a fire destroyed its predecessor—is one of just three Art Déco-styled statehouses in the country. Amtrak Cascades whisks passengers the 160 miles between the capital cities,

D.Y.K.

Did You Know? At 287 feet, the dome atop Washington State’s Legislative Building is the fifth tallest masonry dome in the world and the tallest in North America. It is surpassed by St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome and the Santa Maria Del Fiore in Florence.

Music and produce at Olympia Farmers’ Market ontrakmag.com

Weekender

Oregon State Capitol Guided tours Monday-Friday (except December) 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Upward bound? Tours in summer months can include climbing 121 steps to the Oregon Pioneer and observation deck, weather permitting. Washington’s capitol building, in Olympia, features a five-ton Tiffany chandelier.

meaning you could tour both statehouses in a single day. Better yet, meander and make a government geekout weekend of it. Oregon’s Capitol sits just six blocks from the Salem station, between Willamette University and the flowering cherry tree-ringed Capitol Mall. Atop the dome stands a 23-foot-high, gold-covered “Oregon Pioneer,” which can be seen close-up on tours in good weather. Inside, the vaulted rotunda greets visitors with paintings depicting the Oregon Trail and Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery. Pink travertine covers the hallway walls, and pioneer names decorate the legislative chambers. Open weekdays, the Capitol is filled with a constant din when the ninety-member assembly is in session. When lawmakers depart, ontrakmag.com

it is a favorite venue for choirs, as the acoustics are top notch. Don’t be surprised to see a little dust: An effort to make the building more seismically sound is underway. Browse the gift shop, state library and eclectic fare in Salem’s downtown, where political chatter is frequently on the menu. Trek north to Washington, where the Olympia-Lacey Amtrak station is a twenty-minute cab ride to the city center. Once downtown, the government campus is reached easily on foot or via a free bus loop. Ornately decorated, the Roman-Neoclassical legislative building is topped by the fifth-highest stone masonry dome in the world. Inside dangles a five-ton Tiffany chandelier so massive you could fit a VW Bug inside it.

You’ll see the desks of 147 legislators, marble quarried across the globe, and a rare forty-two-star American flag, sewn in 1889 but never flown because Idaho joined the union before official flags were updated. Daily tours begin just inside the north entry, across from the Supreme Court’s Temple of Justice on the 435acre, monument- and parkfilled government grounds. At the gift shop, grab a Washington-grown Republican merlot or Democrat merlot, depending on your taste. Afterward, zigzag downhill to Capitol Lake and to one of many waterfront watering holes at the southern tip of Puget Sound. In the shadow of Olympia’s famous dome, it turns out, good government and good spirits go together nicely.

In session Oregon lawmakers meet starting in February. Sessions in odd-numbered years can be as long as 160 days; sessions in even-numbered years are limited to thirty-five days.

Washington State Capitol Guided tours Hourly, 7 days a week, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on weekends. Sense of Adventure? The “Adventure Tour” is geared toward K-2nd graders, and runs weekdays from May to December and includes a coloring book. In session Washington lawmakers meet beginning in January. In odd-numbered years, they meet for 105 days. Sessions in even-numbered years can last 60 days.

FALL 2015 |

Weekender

RNUCOPIA

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

ON LT

BAKER PA R

With two Eugene locations, “The Corn on Fifth” is the closest to the train station. Opt for sweet potato fries with a tasty burger.

Chris Poulson

The bridge from downtown to Autzen. Alton Baker Park is worth a quick meander if you have the time.

#Railgating BY ANNA BIRD

DUCK STORE

ns /go

ducks m .co

The Huskies host the Ducks this year on October 17.

cE Eri

If you need to stock your wardrobe with green and yellow, the Duck Store has multiple Oregon locations.

“SCO DUCKS!” my friend bellowed as we boarded the Amtrak train heading south from Portland. He was still pretty sober at that point, but excited. Friends from Seattle drove down to Portland the night before, and we hopped the train to Eugene to avoid the I-5 game-day mess. Our group of recent alumni—with budding careers and deadend internships that had scat-

tered us across the Northwest—chose this occasion for a reunion. It was the annual U of O and UW matchup. We had graduated from the University of Oregon only four months before football season, but we couldn’t wait to return to Autzen Stadium as sophisticates who had conquered the real world and who had finer tastes than cheap beer

and discount gin. The biggest advantage to riding the train on game day is leaving the driving to the conductor. We packed a whole car with green and yellow, along with our brave (and tolerant), purple-clad opponents. The train left Union Station around 10 a.m. and for twoand-a-half-hours we played drinking games, complained about having nine-to-five jobs or moving back in with mom and dad, and talked plenty of pre-game smack with our UW friends. They reminded us a dozen or so

-1 ac

ll ba t oo Experience railgating

for yourself with these Pac-12 games along the Amtrak Cascades route.

| FALL 2015

DUCKS in EUGENE

U of O vs. California - November 7 U of O vs. USC - November 21 U of O vs. OSU - November 27

BEAVERS in CORVALLIS

OSU vs. Colorado - October 24 OSU vs. UCLA - November 7 OSU vs. Washington - November 21

HUSKIES in SEATTLE

UW vs. Oregon - October 17 UW vs. Arizona - October 31 UW vs. WSU - November 27

ontrakmag.com

Weekender Eat Track Town Pizza

This Eugene staple is on the campus side of the Autzen footbridge. The greasy pizza will fill you up, and the spirited décor will fill you with Duck pride. 1809 Franklin Boulevard 541.284.8484 tracktownoncampus.com

Brails Restaurant

Brails has been voted the best hangover breakfast in Eugene. With a hearty collection of classic breakfast foods and delicious bloody marys, you’ll feel tip-top before the train ride home. 1689 Willamette Street 541.343.1542 brailseugene.com Eric Evans/goducks.com

Drink The Cooler

Right down the street from Autzen, The Cooler offers a laid-back, old-school bar atmosphere for sippin’ and talking stats. Get the local Hop Valley Citrus Mistress IPA on tap. 20 Centennial Loop 541.484.4355 thecoolerbar.com

Rennie’s Landing CLOCKWISE FROM TOP UW and U of O play Autzen Stadium. On the way to Autzen, take the Peter DeFazio Bike Bridge to Alton Baker Park. Refuel with a handmade burger at Cornucopia.

times about our devastating loss to Arizona two weeks before. “Mariota just had an off game,” we retorted. “He’s going to win the Heisman anyway!” As soon as we stepped off the train in Eugene, we walked to Cornucopia on 5th Avenue to fuel up on their tasty handmade burgers. It was a little after noon, and kickoff was at 5 p.m., so we needed sustenance. An hour later, we made the trek to Autzen (1.7 miles) across the river, through Alton Baker Park and along Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard. When the stadium came ontrakmag.com

into view and we could see the giant yellow O, we felt like we were coming home. Throngs of football fans were making their way to the stadium for tailgating, and we meandered our way through the parking lot, seeking old friends. We found a familiar tailgate and began reminiscing and throwing out game predictions. It felt great to be back in that atmosphere for another season of cheering on Mariota … I mean, the Ducks. It took the whole team to deliver a stinging 45-20 loss to the Huskies. Recounting eleven consecutive losses

to the Ducks, our friends weren’t horribly shocked by the outcome. On the trip back to Portland, we decided not to blabber on about our superior football team. After all, Duck fans are known for being gracious winners. We all agreed, however, that this “railgating” needed to become our new football tradition. On October 17 this year, we’re riding the rails into Husky territory, hoping that a Mariota-less Duck team will extend its UW winning streak to twelve years.

A favorite campus watering hole, Rennie’s is the best campus bar for students and non-students alike. Try a signature Rennie’s cocktail. 1214 Kincaid Street 541.687.0600 rennieslanding.com

Stay Red Lion Inn & Suites Starting at $89 a night. 599 E. Broadway 541.345.2331 redlion.com

Valley River Inn

Starting at $119 a night. 1000 Valley River Way 541.743.1000 valleyriverinn.com

Inn at the 5th

Starting at $232 a night. 205 E 6th Avenue 541.743.4099 innat5th.com For more information on Amtrak Cascades’ Game Train, “like” OnTrak Magazine on Facebook for updates. FALL 2015 |

Pacific Northwest on the Palate BY JULIE H. CASE

VINEYARDS CLIMB THE SIDES of volcanoes, they terrace above gushing rivers, and they roll through alluvial flood plains carved by Ice Age glaciers. Delicate pinot noir and truculent syrah grapes hang, purple skinned, from the vines. Even late in the season, when all other grapes have been harvested and barreled, reislings shudder against a coming snowstorm, waiting to be plucked and turned into ice wine. So goes wine in the Pacific Northwest, where Oregon—now synonymous with pinot noir—marries the fruit forwardness of New World style with the earthy qualities typical in Burgandy. Washington, with its dry climate and long, hot days followed by cool nights, has become renowned for wines that bridge the best of the Old and New World. Think smoky, complex syrahs and chardonnays that are high in fruit and acid, and low in manipulation. Up north, British Columbia offers such a diverse range of landscape and temperatures that it is home to everything from lush, heat-seeking syrahs to decadent ice wines. For the wine lover, the good news is that while grape-growing regions are often farther inland, myriad tasting rooms are popping up along the Amtrak Cascades route, allowing the chance to take alternative transportation and taste the best of a state or province without straying far from the rails. 44

| FALL 2015

ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRENDAN LOSCAR

An Oenophile’s Guide to Oregon

At the southern end of the famed Willamette Valley, vineyards splay across hills, interspersed by rolling roads. More than thirty-five wineries and tasting rooms rise in and around the Eola Hills north of Salem—a sub American Viticultural Area (AVA) of the Willamette Valley—including a cluster near Zena Road, just eleven miles north of Salem proper. Gnarled vines fall into rows below the elegant Bethel Heights tasting room. These are some of the valley’s oldest vines. The west block was already planted when two families bought the land here in 1977, and today there are approximately 100 acres under vine. The coastal wind that sweeps through from the Pacific Ocean makes the Eola Hills cooler than other parts of the Willamette. This is reflected in the estate wines in the form of fruit-forward chardonnays and the Flat Block pinot noir, with its wet rock and plum nose and palate. Below Bethel Heights is St. Innocent, where you can taste wines from Eola Hills and other Willamette Valley AVAs. Time it well and you could stumble into a comparative tasting—say a sampling of the 2011 versus 2013 Zenith pinot noir—vintages of different age and weather. This is where learning hap-

SALEM

Taste Near the Train Bentley’s Grill, adjoining the Grand Hotel and the convention center, is dedicated to American wines, especially wines from Oregon and Washington. Nearly 100 bottles of the 200-plus bottle list come from Oregon—with a handful of California wines rounding out the mix. Bentley’s also serves forty wines on tap, meaning you can sample at least five Oregon pinot noirs by the glass without committing to a bottle purchase. pens. When you’re able to focus on one varietal, you can begin to discern the differences in the soils, winemaking styles and vintages. Four miles south at Walter Scott, owner Ken Pahlow knows his terroir. Each Walter Scott wine comes from a single vineyard, and each vineyard delivers its own flavor—from Sojourner Vineyard with its clay and round rocks to Temperance Hill with its cool volcanic hillside and a slight taste of volcanic smokiness present in each sip of the finished product. On a clear day, Mt. Jefferson is visible to the east from the Cristom tasting room. It’s not just pinot noir on the menu. Cristom is also known for its chardonnay, syrah and pinot noir blends. When your palate can handle no ontrakmag.com

ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

Courtesy of Washington State Wine / Andrea Johnson Photography

more red, there’s Brooks Winery. The gorgeous new, modern-styled winery is surrounded by grapes and gardens. Brooks’ specialty is riesling, although visitors can also find beer and iced coffee in the tasting room. All of this can be found within a few miles of the Salem train station. For more, head north into Dundee. Closer to Portland, McMinnville also has a profusion of wineries and tasting rooms dedicated to different AVAs.

Sip in the Evergreen State

That the majority of grapes in Washington are grown east of the Cascades is of little consequence to Puget Sound residents. After all, from the Sound you can taste pretty much the entire state. These days, Woodinville—just twenty miles northeast of Seattle—is the stomping grounds for many of the state’s 850plus wineries. Here, among palatial estates with peacocks roaming the grounds and boutique wineries packed into old warehouse district chop shops, it’s possible to taste everything from albarino to Walla Walla syrah. At Chateau Ste. Michelle, wine lovers taste from the state’s oldest—and likely most well-known—winery. From there, ramble east to the Hollywood Winery District, where tasting rooms for Walla Walla and Lake Chelan wineries stand side by side. One moment you can sip a dense cabernet sauvignon grown on the hot, windswept Red Mountain, the next you can explore a savage syrah raised on the massive cobbled beds of The Rocks AVA of Mil1 ton-Freewater. 2 In this densely-packed 3 tasting district, it is best to 4 wander door to door, getting 5 to know the state by tasting a dry riesling raised at higher elevation or a merlot full of 46

| FALL 2015

blue fruit, yet made with restraint. Of course, Woodinville isn’t the only place to get a taste of Washington from within the Puget Sound. Twenty-five wineries have tasting rooms in Seattle proper. South of downtown, outside a former Dr. Pepper bottling plant, Learjets and turboprops taxi down the Boeing runway against a Mt. Rainier backdrop. Inside the 32,000-square-foot warehouse, chardonnay is cascading into glasses. What is now Charles Smith Wines Jet City opened in August and offers everything from private dinners to concerts. Most importantly, it offers tastings. Like in Woodinville, there’s an opportunity here to get a taste of the state in just one place. On one menu are eight Charles Smith wines. Seven are available for $6 per tasting. The last one is the Kung Fu Girl. It’s a $20 tasting, but this kung fu could knock over any wine afficionado. Charles Smith’s staff pour K Vintners

OREGON

SEATTLE

Taste Near the Train In the heart of downtown—a few short light rail stops from King Street Station— restaurants with enormous Washington wine lists give diners a chance to sample the state. Purple Cafe and Wine Bar’s enormous wine list includes bottles, glass pours, and flights from hundreds of Washington wineries. There’s the Washington white tasting trio, for example, focused on white Rhône wines made in Walla Walla and the Columbia valleys, as well as a full page of bottles of Bordeaux-style Washington reds. Nearby, Michael Mina’s RN74 restaurant devotes seven pages of its list to Washington wines. Organized alphabetically, a description of each of the wineries is included—a treat for any research-loving oenophile.

WASHINGTON

VANCOUVER, BC

1 2

1 2 1

1 2 3 4 5

3 4

Brooks Winery Bethel Heights Vineyard Walter Scott Wines Cristom Vineyards St. Innocent Winery

2 3

Settlement Building Vista D'oro Farm & Winery Township 7 Winery Backyard Vineyards

Hollywood Winery District Chateau Ste. Michelle Charles Smith Wines Jet City

ontrakmag.com

Belgard Kitchen, on the edge of downtown Vancouver's east side, offers thirty-six wines on tap.

Steve Thorp

rosé, viognier, syrah and merlot, as well as all three single-vineyard Washington chardonnays (and a cuvée of those three) from the Sixto lineup. This is a chance to get a good sense of place through three single varietals.

Tasty Territory

Cyclists spin past equestrian estates, llama farms, and wineries near the United States-Canada border in the southern end of British Columbia’s Fra-

VANCOUVER, BC

Island Wine Those not satisfied with the mainland options can take a ferry or a floatplane to Vancouver Island, where thirty-six wineries make good use of cooler climates and exceptionally dry weather to make, largely, pinot noirs and pinot grises. Adventure travelers can explore five of the ten Gulf Island wineries by boat with Marine EcoTours. Four touring companies— Vine and Hops, BC Grand Tours, South Fraser Shuttles and Tours, and EasyTrips Vancouver—offer private and group wine tours of the Fraser Valley. ontrakmag.com

ser Valley. In the backyard of Vancouver, this valley is BC’s second-smallest wine region, with just twenty-two wineries and sixty-three acres under vine. You get a complete taste of the Fraser Valley—where white grapes prevail—but you can also get to know the wines of the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia’s primary grape-growing region. Most wineries here source grapes from both areas. An old man in a baseball hat works a crossword puzzle in the shade of an umbrella outside Domaine de Chaberton. The valley’s first winery, which opened in 1984, Chaberton is home to fifty-five acres of grapes and a booming bistro. On-site are whites, primarily Bacchus, a silvaner and riesling hybrid crossed with müller-thurgau—and siegerrebe, which is poured alongside reds and a chardonnay from the Okanagan Valley. Citrus and crispness dominate the palate in whites from this region. Nearby are a handful of other wineries. Backyard Vineyards has outdoor space overlooking its vineyards, and Vista D’Oro makes exceptional rustic wines, homemade jams and black walnut dessert wine. Township 7 pours excellent wines from its small estate

in Langley, Washington, and its seven-acre Naramata Ranch vineyard in the Okanagan. Notable are its three chardonnays made with grapes from the same vineyards, but using different oak treatments. This gives chardonnay enthusiasts a chance to see how wine evolves and changes in winemaking. Perhaps the best place to get a handle on how BC tastes, however, is in Vancouver proper. In the urban, industrial Settlement Building at the edge of the Downtown Eastside district, thirty-six wines are on tap. The winery shares the space with Belgard Kitchen and Postmark Brewing, and offers interesting flight options. There’s the housemade 2014 pinot grigio alongside a 2014 Upper Bench riesling (both from Naramata), for example. Or, a flight of all reds that includes syrahs from southern Okanagan, which pairs nicely with a burger from Belgard Kitchen. If you prefer, it’s an easy stroll to the happening Gastown, where diners mingle with beer and wine lovers alike, and some of the city’s hottest restaurants serve up everything from charcuterie and marrow to Asian fusion dishes along cobbled historic streets. FALL 2015 |

Dream Roll PHOTOS BY JOHN WALLER

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not quite the daughters of anarchy, but these biker babes know how to rough it. In the waning days of August, female riders from across the Pacific Northwest hopped on their hogs and rumbled from Portland to Mt. Adams for a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-only weekend in the woods.

Go to ontrakmag.com/gallery for more photos.

The Last RAILROAD

WAR BY JANE AHERN

ON THE NIGHT OF JULY 26, 1909, 150 men and their supply wagons started down the steep grade of the Deschutes River Canyon under cover of darkness. This was the second attempt by contractor Harry Carleton and his crew of Italian laborers to reach the bottom and set up camp alongside the river in Central Oregon. They had been turned away at the rim of the canyon by armed rivals earlier in the day. Surely Carleton knew that the noise of the river below could not adequately muffle the approach of so many men, plus twelve horses pulling three rattling wagons over a rocky road. The other party indeed heard them and began to shoot at them almost immediately. Still, the darkness must have helped because Carletonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s men found their way down the canyon without anyone from either party being seriously injured, despite gunfire being exchanged all the way.

Ole Hedlund

OPPOSITE Workers walk across the nearly completed Crooked River Bridge during summer 1911. ABOVE, FROM LEFT James J. Hill and Edward H. Harriman.

Once at the bottom, the men made their camp and, the next day, they began digging a tunnel for James J. Hill’s Oregon Trunk railway—a mere 100 yards away from the crew of hostile workers digging a tunnel for Edward H. Harriman’s Deschutes River Railroad. This was the first open engagement in the final war between the legendary railroad magnates, or so one version of the story goes. This account comes from the authors of Handbook of the Deschutes River Canyon, based on conversations with Carleton’s widow and on Carleton’s journal. It was subsequently quoted in the definitive book on the subject, The Deschutes River Railroad War by Leon Speroff. The Morning Oregonian newspaper based in Portland, which covered the story almost daily, gave a different, slightly less exciting account. The Oregonian played up the danger of the nightontrakmag.com

time trip down the canyon. The canyon was 2,000 feet deep at this point, the narrow road two miles long, and the average grade 30 percent. The newspaper, however, neither mentioned Carleton being rebuffed by armed men during daylight hours, nor did it speak of Carleton’s men being met by gunfire in the darkness. Perhaps the Carletons embellished the story over the years. If so, it seems rather fitting, like one final, benign exploit in a series of subterfuges, pranks and not-sobenign tricks that became the story of the Central Oregon railroad. It is also an exaggeration to call the competition between Harriman and Hill a war, but their stubborn, wasteful construction of two railroads side-by-side along the Deschutes River canyon from the Columbia River to Madras and from there to Bend, if for no reason other than to win a race of their own fabrication, is indicative of an extraordinary level of antagonism between the two men. The

two titans had been dueling for railroad supremacy for years, on many different fronts—on Wall Street, in the courts, and on the land where the tracks were laid. What came to be called the Deschutes River railroad war was business-as-usual for Hill and Harriman. Far from being alarmed by the hostilities, the citizens of Central Oregon were thrilled at the prospect. They likely anticipated the entertainment value almost as eagerly as the economic benefits of a new railroad. The Bend Bulletin on Sept. 4, 1908, in reporting that both Hill and Harriman had crews doing preliminary work in Central Oregon, quoted an anonymous source: “‘The people of Central Oregon are about to see one of the greatest railroad fights on the banks of the Deschutes that the country has ever witnessed—a fight that will be well worth the price of admission.’ That is a statement coming from a man close to the throne.” FALL 2015 |

INSIDE THE “HARRIMAN FENCE” When construction began, Central Oregon was the largest remaining territory in the continental United States without rail service. The region, along with parts of Nevada, California, and Idaho, were bounded by what was known as the “Harriman fence”—Harriman railroad lines in a roughly triangular configuration that kept other railroads out. Harriman had promised repeatedly to build a branch into Central Oregon but had not done so. For most Central Oregonians, the nearest railhead was the Harriman-controlled Columbia Southern that ran from The Dalles to Shaniko. It was better than nothing, but from there goods still had to be moved many miles by wagons through steep, rocky terrain—a slow and hazardous means of transport. Passengers had to go by stagecoach. The state of Oregon was so desperate to open up its interior to settlement and national markets that the Republican-controlled legislature voted to put on the statewide ballot a constitutional amendment that would allow the state to build its own railroads or condemn existing railroads. By the time of the November 1910 election, however, the two railroads were building feverishly up the Deschutes canyon and the amendment was moot. There was plenty of financial incentive for a railroad branch in Central Oregon. The region produced agricultural goods such as livestock, wool, and dryland wheat, and promised to produce more once irrigation became widespread. A more important incentive was the potential to ship millions of board feet of lumber to be cut in the forests near Bend. Nevertheless, Harriman didn’t move to build a Central Oregon line until a group of Seattle investors surveyed the Deschutes River canyon in 1905 and in52

| FALL 2015

their railroad. The Harriman camp knew it, too. Once they got wind of Oregon Trunk’s activities in the Deschutes River canyon, Harriman’s people responded by quickly forming the Deschutes Railroad Company, which then made its own survey of the canyon. Harriman’s Deschutes Railroad planned on laying its tracks on the east bank of the river, while the Oregon Trunk would follow the west bank—mostly. For reasons related to the geography of the canyon, there were two places where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank. In at least one of those stretches of river, there was room for only one set of tracks. After a lengthy process, the U.S. Department of the Interior approved both surveys in July 1909, despite the aforementioned conflicts and despite the fact that there was really no need for two railroads in the same canyon. They were going to have to duke it out for the contested locations and try to force the other side to give up. Ole Hedlund

corporated as the Oregon Trunk Line. At this point, Hill had no connection with the Oregon Trunk but was an indirect player. Hill had resigned as president of Great Northern in 1907, but was restless in retirement. Between 1905 and 1908, he challenged Harriman’s Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company (ORNC) line that ran along the south bank of the Columbia River by building a line of his own, the Spokane, Portland, and Seattle (SP&S) along the north bank of the Columbia River. At the time, many speculated that Hill’s ulterior motive in building the SP&S was to enable him to establish a branch from the Columbia down through Central Oregon and into California. Such a line could give Harriman’s Southern Pacific, which reached San Francisco via Oregon’s Willamette Valley, a run for its money. The Oregon Trunk investors knew that Hill would be interested in buying

THE LINES WERE DRAWN, THE BATTLE WAS ON While the surveys were under review by the federal government, Hill had continued to eye developments from behind the scenes. In June of 1909, he had sent his close friend and ally, John F. Stevens, to check things out. Stevens was an engineer, most famous for his previous work on the Panama Canal, but he was also well-known for his association with Hill. In one of the more amusing episodes of the railroad war, Stevens came to Central Oregon incognito because Hill was still trying (vainly) to conceal his interest in the Oregon Trunk. Calling himself John Sampson, Stevens posed as a wealthy fly-fisherman vacationing along the Deschutes River. For six weeks,

he traveled by automobile and doled out personal checks for options on the ranches and farms he visited. About two months after his tour of Central Oregon and shortly after construction began on both railroads, Stevens met the owner of the Oregon Trunk Line at midnight in a Portland park to purchase the railroad with Hill’s backing. Almost equally importantly, he also purchased the Central Oregon Railroad, which promised the right to build a bridge over the Crooked River Gorge at the only feasible crossing point. The race was on in earnest, and both sides had a catalog of dirty tricks for obstructing their opponents. Several colorful incidents arose out of the need to pass through private property in order to get men, equipment and supplies down into the canyon. Both railroads had sent “right-of-way men” to the area early on to establish their rights to access the canyon, but the Harriman camp had made an astonishingly amateur mistake. The contractors, Twohy Brothers, built a $10,000 supply road across the Gurtz ranch to the canyon rim and down to the river based solely on verbal permission to pass through the ranch. The Oregon Trunk contractors, the Porter Brothers, came along after the road had been built and bought options on the Gurtz ranch and two others, thus procuring the right for their subcontractor, Harry Carleton, to put up a gate and prevent Twohy Brothers from using their own road. This was a major coup because it occurred at Horseshoe Bend, one of the sites where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank of the river. There was enough room for two sets of tracks, but the one who got there first could choose the easiest path. Plus, the two companies would have to jockey for space to camp and work. Twohy Brothers’ freight wagons were turned back at the gate several days in a row, until they got a court order to allow them passage, setting up another encounter on August 1, 1909, when the Sherman County sheriff, a deputy and a judge acontrakmag.com

Photos by Ole Hedlund

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Erecting the OT Ferry Canyon trestle over the Deschutes River near Madras sometime during winter 1910-1911. People gather around the Welcome Arch, celebrating Railroad Day in Madras on February 15, 1911. Workmen and dignitaries (including John Stevens, center) pose in front of the first locomotive to ride the rails.

companied Harriman’s freight wagons to the gate to serve the injunction. Carleton had seventy-five of his men there, armed with ax handles and firearms. Carleton did not prevent them from cutting open the gate, but when the first wagon started through, he ordered his men to stop them. The Morning Oregonian reported that the sheriff and deputy were “pushed aside like flies” by Carleton’s men. Carleton’s crew did not resort to weapons, but rather unhitched the mules, tied them to the wagon and backed the wagon out the gate. The next day Twohy Brothers brought 200 men to the gate and Carleton’s outnumbered men let them pass, albeit with rifles trained on them as they went by. Carleton and two of his men were arrested and lodged in the jail in Grass Valley

until their employer bailed them out. Despite the conflict over the supply road, the work continued on the riverside. The two crews were digging tunnels within 100 yards of each other, blasting through the rock with black powder, showering each other with falling debris. It is important to note that both camps were building at many locations along the canyon at the same time. While Hill’s contractor Carleton skirmished with Harriman’s people at Horseshoe Bend, Harriman’s chief engineer, George W. Boschke, worked downstream at North Junction, another site where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank. Boschke had helped design the seawall installed in Galveston after that city had been devastated by a hurricane in 1900. One day while stationed at North JuncFALL 2015 |

Hill and Harriman crews span both sides of North Junction on the Deschutes River in 1910.

tion, Boschke received a telegram saying the seawall had failed and that he was needed immediately in Galveston, Texas. The hoax was admirably creative, but Boschke didn’t bite. In the stretch between North Junction and South Junction, there was only room for one set of tracks, but both railroads tried for a time to build side-by-side. Across from the mouth of the Warm Springs River, Porter’s men were grading for the Oregon Trunk four feet up the hillside from Twohy Brothers’ crew. Porter’s gang would shovel debris onto the Twohy gang, who would then have to shovel it farther down the slope. Then 54

| FALL 2015

Porter’s men began to loosen boulders and let them roll onto the other crew’s grade. The Twohy workers retaliated by moving farther up the hill and rolling boulders onto Porter’s workers. Though unverifiable, there were more equally entertaining stories. Each camp kept herds of cattle that they would butcher to feed the workers. Sometimes a few members of a work crew would sneak across the river and stampede the other crew’s cattle. If one gang of workers left its camp untended, the other gang would set the nearby grass on fire. Workers would spy on the enemy to see where they stored their black

powder so that they could later pilfer or destroy it, thus delaying their progress.

INUNDATION BRINGS TRANSFORMATION Thousands of laborers poured into Central Oregon to work on the railroads, and they could not help but make an impact on the towns. Situated on ontrakmag.com

Ole Hedlund

the Columbia Southern line, tiny Grass Valley was the jumping-off point for workers and equipment sent from The Dalles and bound for Horseshoe Bend. Tension and excitement abounded in that town during the conflict over the supply road. There was always potential for bloodshed as foreign laborers came and went, and Grass Valley’s own sheriff and judge were pushed around in the melee at the gate. When the crews were working near Madras, they were so rowdy that residents voted to incorporate as a city so that they could hire law enforcement to instill order. The first city officials were ontrakmag.com

elected in January 1910. If Bend experienced a crime wave during the construction, the Bend Bulletin did not report it, but the city was ecstatic at the prospect of rail service. The July 28, 1909 Bulletin had a line of smaller text above its banner that read: “Think of it! Two railroads starting for us at the same time after all these years of waiting for even one.” In the end, Bend got its two railroads, but it only got one set of tracks. On September 9, 1909, while the railroad war was in full swing, Harriman succumbed to a long illness and died. He was succeeded as president of Union Pacific by Judge Robert S. Lovett, who was no pushover but who lacked Harriman’s personal motivation to carry on the war. On May 17, 1910, the railroads signed an agreement to share track in the tenmile stretch between North Junction and South Junction where there was only room for one set of rails. The Oregon Trunk was to lay the track from Metolius to Bend, and the Deschutes Railroad would pay to use it. With that agreement, the war was over. The Oregon Trunk won the race to Madras, which marked the end of the most difficult construction. On February 15, 1911, an engine with two coaches chugged out of Willow Creek canyon and passed through a triumphal arch set over the tracks and painted with the slogan “Madras, the Gateway to Central Oregon.” John F. Stevens and other railroad dignitaries aboard the train joined the approximately 3,000 celebrants in a procession into town for a barbecue lunch, followed by speeches in the afternoon. One month later, the Deschutes Railroad reached Madras, bringing with it the Barnes Circus, including elephants, camels and lions. The turnout was even larger than the celebration for the Oregon Trunk. The route from Madras to Bend was relatively flat and smooth, and the railroad workers could lay as much as two miles of track per day. The last major obstacle was building the spectacular bridge over the Crooked River Gorge

near present-day Terrebonne. The first train arrived in Redmond on September 21, 1911 and in Bend on September 30. The city of Bend staged two full days of celebrations October 5 and 6, the highlight of which was James J. Hill driving the golden spike. (This spike was given to an SP&S official to display in Portland, but it vanished and was never seen again.) After millions of dollars and years of effort were spent building two railroad tracks from the Columbia River to Madras, they were consolidated in a disappointingly short period of time. The portion of the Oregon Trunk between Trout Creek and Madras was abandoned in 1923, and the northern portion of the Deschutes Railroad was abandoned in 1935. The remaining line is now operated by Burlington Northern Santa Fe. The story of the Deschutes River Railroad has been fondly told and retold over the past century. For a few exhilarating years, Central Oregonians basked in the attention of legendary figures James J. Hill and E. H. Harriman. Both men visited the small towns of Central Oregon in the first decade of the twentieth century and gambled millions of dollars on the region’s potential. Yet, biographer Maury Klein wrote 447 pages about the life of Edward H. Harriman and did not once mention the Deschutes River railroad war. Hill biographer Albro Martin begins his single paragraph on the subject with “There is a breed of historian for whom the saga of the West cannot possibly be too hairy-chested, and to them the story of this last confrontation between Hill and Harriman before Harriman’s premature death quickly became the ‘Deschutes Canyon War.’” Perhaps it is true that the race to build a railroad up the Deschutes canyon was insignificant in the lives of great men such as Hill and Harriman, but to Central Oregon, few events in its history have been more important. See more photos of the Railroad War at ontrakmag.com/railroadwar. FALL 2015 |

Eat + Stay + Play

Oregon Guide

Rivershore Bar & Grill 1900 Clackamette Drive 0.9 miles from station 503.655.5155 rivershorerestaurant.com R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar 528 NE Third Street, McMinnville 38.7 miles from station 866.472.8614 rstuartandco.com

PORTLAND

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Turner

EUGENE

Ax Billy Grill & Sports Bar Downtown Athletic Club 999 Willamette Street 0.4 mile from station 541.484.4011 downtownac.net Belly Taquería 454 Willamette Street 69 feet from station 541.687.8226 eatbelly.com Cafe Lucky Noodle 207 E. 5th Avenue 0.2 mile from station 541.484.4777 La Perla Pizzeria 1313 Pearl Street 0.8 mile from station 541.686.1313 laperlapizzeria.com

Sabai Cafe & Bar 27 Oakway Center 1.5 miles from station 541.654.5424 sabaicafe.com Sushi Pure 296 E. 5th Avenue 0.3 mile from station 541.654.0608 sushipureeugene.com Ta Ra Rin Thai Cuisine 1200 Oak Street 0.7 mile from station 541.343.1230 tararinthai.com

ALBANY

Marché 296 E. 5th Avenue #226 0.3 mile from station 541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com

Frankie’s Restaurant 641 NW Hickory Street 1.4 miles from station 541.248.3671 frankiesoregon.tumblr.com

McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café 1243 High Street 0.8 mile from station 541.345.4905 mcmenamins.com

Sybaris Bistro 442 1st Avenue 0.8 mile from station 541.248.3666 sybarisbistro.com

Off the Waffle Two Eugene Locations offthewaffle.com

Oregon Electric Station 27 E. 5th Avenue 374 feet from station 541.485.4444 oesrestaurant.com

| FALL 2015

Christo’s Pizzeria & Lounge 1108 NE Broadway Street 1.6 miles from station 503.371.2892 christospizzasalem.com

SALEM

Gamberetti’s 325 SE High Street 0.7 mile from station 503.399.7446 gamberettis.com Wild Pear 372 State Street 1.5 miles from station 503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com Willamette Valley Vineyards 8800 Enchanted Way SE, Turner 9.2 miles from station 503.588.9463 wvv.com

OREGON CITY Adelsheim Vineyard 16800 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg 29 miles from station 503.538.3652 adelsheim.com

503.228.7222 imperialpdx.com Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside Street 2.6 miles from station 503.206.3097 laurelhurstmarket.com Le Bouchon 517 NW 14th Avenue 0.5 mile from station 503.248.2193 bouchon-portland.com

Caffe Mingo 807 NW 21st Avenue 1.1 miles from station 503.226.4646 caffemingonw.com

Oven & Shaker 1134 NW Everett Street 0.5 mile from station 503.241.1600 ovenandshaker.com

Chennai Masala 2088 NW Stucki Avenue, Hillsboro 12 miles from station 503.531.9500 chennaimasala.net

The Parish 231 NW 11th Avenue 0.5 mile from station 503.227.2421 theparishpdx.com

Decarli 4545 SW Watson Avenue, Beaverton 8.6 miles from station 503.641.3223 decarlirestaurant.com Elephant’s Delicatessen Multiple locations elephantsdeli.com The Garden Bar Multiple locations gardenbarpdx.com Gloria’s Secret Cafe 12500 SW Broadway Street, Beaverton 8.1 miles from station 503.268.2124 Imperial Restaurant 410 SW Broadway 0.6 mile from station

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 850 SW Broadway 0.8 mile from station 503.221.4518 ruthschris.com Serratto Restaurant & Bar 2112 NW Kearney Street 1 mile from station 503.221.1195 serratto.com Syun Izakaya 209 NE Lincoln Street, Hillsboro 16.8 miles from station 503.640.3131 syun-izakaya.com Wilf’s 800 NW 6th Avenue 226 feet from station 503.223.0070 wilfsrestaurant.com

ArborBrook Vineyards 17770 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg 29.4 miles from station 503.538.0959 arborbrookwines.com Cana’s Feast Winery 750 W. Lincoln Street, Carlton 37.3 miles from station 503.852.0002 canasfeastwinery.com

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Sybaris Bistro, Albany

ontrakmag.com

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play

Hotel Eastlund 1021 NE Grand Avenue 1.5 miles from station 503.235.2100 hoteleastlund.com Hotel Modera 515 SE Clay Street 1.1 miles from station 877.484.1084 hotelmodera.com Hotel Modera, Portland

EUGENE

Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;est La Vie Inn 1006 Taylor Street 1.5 miles from station 541.302.6963 cestlavieinn.com Campbell House Inn 252 Pearl Street 0.4 miles from station 541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com Excelsior Inn 754 E. 13th Avenue 1.1 miles from station 541.342.1991 excelsiorinn.com Farmhouse & Loft at Sweet Cheeks Winery 27007 Briggs Hill Road 14.3 miles from station 541.607.6963 sweetcheekswinery.com Hilton 66 E. 6th Avenue 0.2 miles from station 541.342.2000 hilton.com Holiday Inn Express & Suites 2117 Franklin Boulevard 1.9 miles from station 541.342.1243 ihg.com

ontrakmag.com

Inn at the 5th 205 E. 6th Avenue 0.3 miles from station 541.743.0869 innat5th.com Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn 988 Lawrence Street 0.7 miles from station 541.683.3160 ovaldoor.com The Secret Garden 1910 University Street 1.9 miles from station 541.484.6755 secretgardenbbinn.com Valley River Inn 1000 Valley River Way 2 miles from station 541.743.1000 valleyriverinn.com

ALBANY

Phoenix Inn Suites 3410 SE Spicer Drive 2.1 miles from station 541.926.5696 phoenixinn.com

SALEM

The Grand Hotel 201 SE Liberty Street 0.8 miles from station 503.540.7800 grandhotelsalem.com Hampton Inn & Suites 510 SE Hawthorne Avenue 503.362.1300 hamptoninn3.hilton.com Red Lion 3301 Market Street NE 2.6 miles from station 503.370.7888 redlion.com

OREGON CITY

Best Western Plus Prairie Inn 1100 SE Price Road 2.9 miles from station 541.928.5050 book.bestwestern.com

Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel 1900 Clackamette Drive 0.9 miles from station 503.655.1927 book.bestwestern.com

Comfort Suites 100 NE Opal Court 2.9 miles from station 541.928.2053 comfortsuites.com

Lakeshore Inn 210 N. State Street, Lake Oswego 6.2 miles from station 503.636.9679 thelakeshoreinn.com

Grand Hotel at Bridgeport 7265 SW Hazel Fern Road, Tigard 11.7 miles from station 503.968.5757 grandhotelbridgeport.com

PORTLAND

Ace Hotel 1022 SW Stark Street 0.7 miles from station 503.228.2277 acehotel.com The Benson 309 SW Broadway 0.5 miles from station 503.228.2000 coasthotels.com Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel 5009 NE 11th Avenue 3.1 miles from station 503.288.5225 tinyhousehotel.com Embassy Suites PortlandWashington Square 9600 SW Washington Square Road, Tigard 11.3 miles from station 503.644.4400 portlandembassysuites.com Friendly Bike Guest House 4039 N. Williams Avenue 2.1 miles from station 503.799.2615 friendlybikeguesthouse.com

Inn @ Northrup Station 2025 NW Northrup Street 0.9 mile from station 503.224.0543 northrupstation.com Jupiter Hotel 800 E. Burnside 1.4 miles from station 503.230.9200 jupiterhotel.com McMenamins Edgefield 2126 SW Halsey Street, Troutdale 13.6 miles from station 503.669.8610 mcmenamins.com McMenamins Grand Lodge 3505 Pacific Avenue, Forest Grove 25.4 miles from station 503.992.9533 mcmenamins.com The Nines 525 SW Morrison Street 0.7 mile from station 877.229.9995 thenines.com Shift Vacation Rentals 1421 NE Alberta Street 3.3 miles from station 503.208.2581 shiftvacationrentals.com The Westin 750 SW Alder Street 0.7 mile from station 503.294.9000 westinportland.com FALL 2015 |

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play

EUGENE

Bijou Metro 43 W. Broadway 0.4 mile from station 541.686.2458 bijou-cinemas.com Cascade Raptor Center 32275 Fox Hollow Road 5.7 miles from station 541.485.1320 eraptors.org Eugene Cascades & Coast Travel Lane County 754 Olive Street 0.3 mile from station 541.484.5307 eugenecascadescoast.org Fifth Street Public Market 296 E. 5th Avenue 0.3 mile from station 541.484.0380 5stmarket.com Heritage Dry Goods 861 Willamette Street 0.3 mile from station 541.393.6710 heritagedrygoods.com Hult Center 1 Eugene Center 0.2 mile from station 541.682.5087 hultcenter.org Mount Pisgah Arboretum 34901 Frank Parrish Road 7.6 miles from station

541.747.3817 mountpisgaharboretum. com Museum of Natural & Cultural History 1680 E. 15th Avenue 1.7 miles from station 541.346.3024 natural-history.uoregon. edu Oakway Center 2350 Oakmont Way 1.3 miles from station 541.485.4711 oakwaycenter.com

ALBANY

Albany Antique Mall 145 SW 2nd Avenue 0.5 mile from station 541.704.0109 albanyantiquemall.com Oregon Coast Aquarium 2820 SE Ferry Slip Road, Newport 65 miles from station 541.867.3474 aquarium.org

SALEM Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark 500 Northeast Captain Michael King Smith Way, McMinnville 27 miles from station

503.434.4180 evergreenmuseum.org Salem Center 401 Center Street NE 1.1 miles from station 503.399.9676 salemcenter.com

OREGON CITY

Bridgeport Village 7455 SW Bridgeport Road, Tigard 11.6 miles from station 503.968.1704 bridgeport-village.com End of the Oregon Trail 1726 Washington Street 1.2 miles from station 503.657.9336 historicoregoncity.org

PORTLAND

Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall 1037 SW Broadway 0.9 mile from station 503.248.4335 portland5.com Bella Casa 223 NW 9th Avenue 0.5 mile from station 503.222.5337 bellacasa.net Bonnet 1129 NW Flanders Street 0.5 mile from station

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport

503.954.2271 shop.bonnetboutique. com Garnish Apparel 404 NW 12th Avenue 0.5 mile from station 503.954.2292 garnishapparel.com Lan Su Chinese Garden 239 NW Everett Street 0.5 mile from station 503.228.8131 lansugarden.org McMenamins Crystal Ballroom 1332 W. Burnside Street 0.8 mile from station 503.225.0047 mcmenamins.com Mercantile 729 SW Alder Street 0.7 mile from station 503.223.6649 mercantileportland.com Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort 14040 Highway 35, Mt. Hood 75 miles from station 503.337.2222 skihood.com

Bella Casa, Portland

| FALL 2015

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1945 SE Water Avenue 1.9 miles from station 800.955.6674

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

omsi.edu Oregon Zoo 4001 SW Canyon Road 3.4 miles from station 503.226.1561 oregonzoo.org Portland Art Museum 1219 SW Park Avenue 1 mile from station 503.553.5400 portlandartmuseum.org Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion 132 NW 12th Avenue 0.7 mile from station 971.319.6934 rachellem.com Rice Museum of Rocks & Minerals 26385 NW Groveland Drive, Hillsboro 17.1 miles from station 503.647.2418 ricenorthwestmuseum.org Twist 30 NW 23rd Place 1.4 miles from station 503.224.0334 twistonline.com Washington Square 9585 SW Washington Square Road, Tigard 8.6 miles from station 503.639.8860 shopwashingtonsquare. com ontrakmag.com

Free Writing Prospectus to Prospectus dated August 11, 2015

Filed Pursuant to Rule 433

Registration Statement No. 333-205174

Be a Part of Oregon’s Wine Future! (At this time, this offering has been registered for sale to Oregon and Washington residents only.)

Please join us as Founders of two new Wineries!

Eola-Amity Hills AVA

Preferred Stock at an offering price of $4.25 per share earning a 5.2% annual dividend. The maximum purchase per subscription is 1,205 shares ($5,121.25), the minimum 300 shares ($1,275). Share price will increase to $4.35 after December 31, 2015 (5.1% div.). To obtain more information regarding the winery and an investment, please call 503-588-9463 or visit www.w v v.com/ownership. Jim Bernau, Founder/CEO Willamette Valley Vineyards 8800 Enchanted Way SE • Turner, OR 97392 503-588-9463 • stock.offering@wvv.com

Walla Walla Valley AVA Willamette Valley Vineyards, Inc., has filed a registration statement (including a prospectus) with the SEC for the offering to which this communication relates. Before you invest, you should read the prospectus in that registration statement and other documents we have filed with the SEC for more complete information about our company and this offering. You may get these documents for free by visiting EDGAR on the SEC Web site at www.sec.gov. Alternatively, you may obtain a copy of these documents at http://www.wvv.com/prospectus, or we will arrange to send you the prospectus (including the documents incorporated therein by reference) if you so request by writing us at stock.offering@wvv.com or by calling us toll-free 1-800-344-9463.

COME FOR THE ADVENTURE, COME FOR THE ADVENTURE, STAY THE VIEW. COME FORFOR THE ADVENTURE, STAY THE VIEW. COME FORFOR THE ADVENTURE, STAY FOR THE VIEW. STAY THE VIEW. Whether you’re soaringFOR above the tree tops at the brand new Crater Lake Zipline or taking part in some of Oregon’s finest fly Whether you’re soaring above the tree tops at the brand new fishing adventures, you’ll soon discover the transformative spiritnew that Whether you’re soaring above the tree tops at the brand Crater Lake Zipline or taking part in some of Oregon’s finest fly makes Y Ranch year-round experience. CraterRunning Lake Zipline or Resort taking apart in somedestination of Oregon’s finest fly fishing adventures, you’ll soon discover the transformative spiritnew that Whether you’re soaring above the tree tops at the brand fishing adventures, you’ll soon discover the transformative spirit that makes Y Ranch year-round experience. CraterRunning Lake Zipline or Resort taking apart in somedestination of Oregon’s finest fly makes Running Y Ranch Resort a year-roundNOW destination experience. CRATER OPEN! fishing adventures,LAKE you’ll soonZIPLINE discover the transformative spirit that makes Running Y Ranch Resort a year-roundNOW destination experience. CRATER LAKE ZIPLINE OPEN!

CRATER LAKE ZIPLINE NOW OPEN! CRATER LAKE ZIPLINE NOW OPEN!

WWW.RUNNINGY.COM - (541) 850-5500 WWW.RUNNINGY.COM - (541) 850-5500 WWW.RUNNINGY.COM - (541) 850-5500 WWW.RUNNINGY.COM - (541) 850-5500

Eat + Stay + Play

Washington Guide

EDMONDS

The Herbfarm 14590 NE 145th Street, Woodinville 19.7 miles from station 425.485.5300 theherbfarm.com The Maltby Cafe 8809 Maltby Road, Snohomish 14.5 miles from station 425.483.3123 maltbycafe.com Russell’s 3305 Monte Villa Parkway, Bothell 16.9 miles from station 425.486.4072 russelllowell.com

EVERETT

Anthony’s Restaurant 1726 W. Marine View Drive 2.4 miles from station 425.252.3333 anthonys.com Little Water Cantina, Seattle

VANCOUVER

Farrar’s Bistro 12514 NW 36th Avenue 6.7 miles from station 360.571.7005 farrarsbistro.com

Fish Tale Brew Pub 515 Jefferson Street SE 7.8 miles from station 360.943.6480 fishbrewing.com

McMenamins East Vancouver 1900 NE 162nd Avenue 9.8 miles from station 360.254.3950 mcmenamins.com

The Mark 407 Columbia Street SW 8.1 miles from station 360.754.4414 themarkolympia.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW Ashtown Brewing Company 1175 Hudson Street 2 miles from station 360.353.5286 ashtownbrewing.com The Office 842 842 Washington Way 1.1 miles from station 360.442.4647 theoffice842.com

CENTRALIA

McMenamins Olympic Club Pub 112 N. Tower Avenue 0.1 mile from station 360.736.5164 mcmenamins.com 60

OLYMPIA/LACEY

| FALL 2015

TACOMA Asado 2810 6th Avenue 4.8 miles from station 253.272.7770 asadotacoma.com Odd Otter Brewery 716 Pacific Avenue 2.7 miles from station 253.209.7064 oddotterbrewing.com Pacific Grill 1502 Pacific Avenue 1.4 miles from station 253.627.3535 pacificgrilltacoma.com

TUKWILA

Miyabi Sushi

16820 Southcenter Pkwy. 1.4 miles from station 206.575.6815 miyabisushi.com

Mezcaleria Oaxaca Locations in Queen Anne and Capitol Hill mezcaleriaoaxaca.com

SEATTLE

Revel 403 N. 36th Street 5.9 miles from station 206.547.2040 revelseattle.com

Assaggio Ristorante 2010 4th Avenue 1.3 miles from station 206.441.1399 assaggioseattle.com Copperworks Distilling 1250 Alaskan Way 0.8 mile from station 206.504.7604 copperworksdistilling.com Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails 1415 5th Avenue 1.1 miles from station 206.971.8015 frolik.motifseattle.com John Howie Steak 11111 NE 8th Street Suite #125, Bellevue 10 miles from station 425.440.0880 johnhowiesteak.com Little Water Cantina 2865 Eastlake Avenue E. 4 miles from station 206.397.4940 delaurenti.com

Salumi Artisan Cured Meats 309 3rd Avenue S. 0.2 mile from station 206.621.8772 salumicuredmeats.com Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar 205 108th Avenue NE #100, Bellevue 10.7 miles from station 425.456.0010 seastarrestaurant.com TanakaSan 2121 6th Avenue 1.8 miles from station 206.812.8412 tanakasanseattle.com Westward 2501 N. Northlake Way 5.8 miles from station 206.552.8215 westwardseattle.com

STANWOOD Stanwood Grill 8628 NW 271st Street 289 feet from station 360.629.5253 stanwoodgrill.com

MOUNT VERNON

Olde Towne Grainery Tea Room & Galleria 100 E. Montgomery Street 0.2 mile from station 360.419.9090 facebook.com/oldetowne grainery Skagit River Brewery 404 S. 3rd Street 0.2 mile from station 360.336.2884

BELLINGHAM

Ambo Ethiopian Cuisine 1530 Cornwall Avenue 3.4 miles from station amboethiopiancuisine. wordpress.com Ciao Thyme 207 Unity Street 3.3 miles from station 360.733.1267 ciaothyme.com

ontrakmag.com

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play

VANCOUVER

Heathman Lodge 7801 NE Greenwood Drive 6.6 miles from station 360.254.3100 heathmanlodge.com Red Lion at the Quay 100 Columbia Street 1.1 miles from station 360.694.8341 redlion.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW

Monticello Hotel 1405 17th Avenue 2.1 miles from station 360.425.9900 themonticello.net

CENTRALIA

Centralia Square Hotel 202 W. Centralia College Boulevard 0.3 mile from station 360.807.1212 centraliasquare.com McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel & Theater 112 N. Tower Avenue 0.1 mile from station 360.736.5164 mcmenamins.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY

The Governor Hotel 621 S. Capitol Way 7.9 miles from station 360.943.9349

coasthotels.com Red Lion Hotel 2300 Evergreen Park Drive SW 8 miles from station 360.943.4000 redlion.com Little Creek Casino Resort 91 West State Route 108 20.6 miles from station 360.427.7711 little-creek.com

TACOMA

Hotel Murano 1320 Broadway Plaza 1.5 miles from station 253.238.8000 hotelmuranotacoma.com

TUKWILA

Cedarbrook Lodge 18525 S. 36th Avenue 4.3 miles from station 206.901.9268 cedarbrooklodge.com Springhill Suites 200 SW 19th Street 1.8 miles from station 425.226.4100 marriott.com

SEATTLE

Alexis Hotel 1007 First Avenue 0.8 mile from station 206.624.4844 alexishotel.com

Coast Gateway 18415 International Boulevard 12.1 miles from station 206.248.8200 coasthotels.com Coast Bellevue 18415 International Boulevard 12.1 miles from station 206.248.8200 coasthotels.com Greenlake Guesthouse 7630 E. Green Lake Drive 7.1 miles from station 206.729.8700 greenlakeguesthouse.com Hotel 1000 1000 First Avenue 0.7 mile from station 206.957.1000 hotel1000seattle.com Hyatt Regency Bellevue 900 Bellevue Way NE 9.9 miles from station 425.462.1234 bellevue.hyatt.com The Inn at El Gaucho 2505 1st Avenue 1.6 miles from station 206.728.1133 elgaucho.com Inn at the Market 86 Pine Street 1.2 miles from station 206.448.0631 innatthemarket.com

Inn at the Market, Seattle

The Maxwell Hotel 300 Roy Street 2.5 miles from station 206.286.0629 themaxwellhotel.com The Moore Hotel 1929 2nd Avenue 1.3 miles from station 206.448.4851 moorehotel.com Seattle Sheraton 1400 6th Avenue 1.2 miles from station 206.621.9000 sheratonseattle.com Sorrento Hotel 900 Madison Street 1.1 miles from station 206.622.6400 hotelsorrento.com

EDMONDS Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn 130 W. Dayton Street 0.2 mile from station 425.771.5021 book.bestwestern.com

EVERETT Inn at Port Gardner 1700 W. Marine View Drive 2.4 miles from station 425.252.6779 innatportgardner.com Chrysalis Inn & Spa, Bellingham

ontrakmag.com

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

STANWOOD

Cedar Bluff Cottage 18520 Swanson Lane 5.2 miles from station 360.445.3333 cedarbluffcottage.com Hotel Stanwood 26926 NW 102nd Avenue 1.4 miles from station 360.629.2888 stanwoodhotelsaloon.com

MOUNT VERNON

Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn 2300 Market Street 1.9 miles from station 360.428.5678 book.bestwestern.com Tulip Inn 2200 Freeway Drive 1.8 miles from station 360.428.5969 tulipinn.net

BELLINGHAM

Chrysalis Inn & Spa 804 10th Street 0.8 mile from station 360.756.1005 thechrysalisinn.com Hotel Bellwether 1 Bellwether Way 4 miles from station 360.392.3100 hotelbellwether.com FALL 2015 |

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play

VANCOUVER

Kiggins Theatre 1011 Main Street 0.8 mile from station 360.816.0352 kigginstheatre.net Visit Tri-Cities 7130 W. Grandridge Boulevard, Kennewick 219 miles from station 509.735.8486 visittri-cities.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW

Kelso Theater Pub 214 S. Pacific Avenue 0.1 mile from station 360.414.9451 ktpub.com

Cowlitz County Tourism Visit Mount St. Helens 360.577.3137 visitmtsthelens.com

CENTRALIA Centralia Factory Outlets 1342 Lum Road 2.8 miles from station 360.736.3327 centraliafactoryoutlet.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY

Capitol Tours 215 Sid Snyder Avenue 7.5 miles from station 360.902.8880 des.wa.gov Rhythm & Rye 311 Capitol Way N. 7.8 miles from station 360.705.0760

Little Creek Casino Resort 91 West State Route 108, Shelton 20.6 miles from station 360.427.7711 little-creek.com

TACOMA

Tacoma Art Museum 1701 Pacific Avenue 1.2 miles from station 253.272.4258 tacomaartmuseum.org Museum of Glass 1801 Dock Street 0.9 mile from station 253.284.4750 museumofglass.org Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium 5400 N. Pearl Street 7.4 miles from station 253.591.5337 pdza.org LeMayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Car Museum 2702 E. D Street 0.7 mile from station 253.779.8490 americascarmuseum.org

TUKWILA Foster Golf Links 13500 S. Interurban Avenue 1.8 miles from station 206.242.4221 fostergolflinks.com

SEATTLE

Argosy Cruises 1101 Alaskan Way 0.8 mile from station

206.623.1445 argosycruises.com

Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium, Tacoma

Bellevue Arts Museum 510 Bellevue Way NE, Bellevue 10.7 miles from station 425.519.0770 bellevuearts.org Chihuly Garden & Glass 305 Harrison Street 2.5 miles from station 206.753.4940 chihulygardenandglass.com Museum of History and Industry 860 Terry Avenue N. 2.7 miles from station 206.324.1126 mohai.org Northwest Outdoor Center 2100 Westlake Avenue N. 3.7 miles from station 206.281.9694 nwoc.com Pike Place Market Pike Street 206.682.7453 pikeplacemarket.org Seattle Aquarium 1483 Alaskan Way 1 mile from station 206.386.4300 seattleaquarium.org

1.3 miles from station 206.356.5803 seattle-cycling-tours.com Seattle Space Needle 400 Broad Street 2 miles from station 206.905.2100 spaceneedle.com

Seattle Art Museum 1300 1st Avenue 0.8 mile from station 206.654.3100 seattleartmuseum.org

Woodland Park Zoo 750 N. 50th Street 5.3 miles from station 206.548.2500 zoo.org

Seattle Cycle Tours 714 Pike Street

EDMONDS Cascadia Art Museum 190 Sunset Avenue #E 0.3 mile from station 425.336.4809 cascadiaartmuseum.org Edmonds Center for the Arts 410 N. 4th Avenue 0.6 mile from station 425.275.9595 edmondscenterforthearts. com Visit Edmonds 121 5th Avenue N. 0.5 mile from station 1.877.775.6935 visitedmonds.com

EVERETT

Salish Cliffs Golf Club at Little Creek Casino Resort, Shelton

| FALL 2015

Future of Flight Aviation

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Center & Boeing Tour 8415 Paine Field Boulevard 8 miles from station 425.467.4777 futureofflight.org

STANWOOD

Stanwood Cinemas 6996 NW 265th Street 1.5 miles from station 360.629.0514 farawayentertainment.com

MOUNT VERNON

Downtown Mount Vernon 360.336.3801 mountvernondowntown.org San Juan Islands 42.7 miles from station 888.468.3701 visitsanjuans.com

BELLINGHAM

Bellingham Railway Museum 1320 Commercial Street 3.1 miles from station 360.393.7540 bellinghamrailway museum.org Whatcom Falls Park 1401 Electric Avenue 4.6 miles from station 360.778.7001 cob.org

ontrakmag.com

Seaside Outlets

RIDE THE REEF

-On THE nOrTH OrEgOn COAST-

aPril-december

MONdAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M. SUNdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M.

JANUARY-MARCH SUNdAY-THURSdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M. FRidAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M.

2,569,949

IN JACKPOT WINS LAST MONTH! book warehouse • bruce’s candy kitchen • carter’s • christoPher & banks • claire’s • daisy may’s sandwich shoP • dress barn & dress barn women • eddie bauer • famous footwear outlet • gnc • kitchen collection • l’eggs hanes bali Playtex exPress • nike factory store • osh kosh b’gosh • Pendleton • rack room shoes • rue 21 • seaside shiPPing center • the wine & beer haus • tokyo teriyaki • TOYS “R” US • Van heusen • ZumieZ

SILVER REEF IS THE ONLY PLACE IN WHATCOM COUNTY WITH THE MOST WINNERS AND THE NEWEST SLOT GAMES!

www.seasideoutlets.com

Hwy 101 & 12th Ave., Seaside, Oregon • 503.717.1603 Free coupon book special events

SilverReefCasino.com EASY TO FIND, HARD TO LEAVE

Eat + Stay + Play

Vancouver Guide Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar 2118 Burrard Street 4 km from station 604.736.2220 novopizzeria.com The Oakwood Canadian Bistro 2741 W. 4th Avenue 5.6 km from station 604.558.1965 theoakwood.ca Opus Bar 322 Davie Street 2.2 km from station 604.642.6787 opushotel.com Oakwood Canadian Bistro, Vancouver

Bishop’s 2183 W. 4th Avenue 4.8 km from station 604.738.2025 bishopsonline.com Blue Water Cafe 1095 Hamilton Street 2.2 km from station 604.688.8078 bluewatercafe.net The Boathouse 1795 Beach Avenue 4.4 km from station 604.699.2225 boathouserestaurants.ca Camagnolo 1020 Main Street 290 meters from station 604.484.6018 campagnolorestaurant.ca Central Bistro 1072 Denman Street 4.7 km from station 604.689.4527 centralbistro.com Chambar 568 Beatty Street 1.6 km from station 604.879.7118 chambar.com Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca 1133 & 1129 Hamilton Street 2.3 km from station 604.688.7466 cioppinosyaletown.com 64

| FALL 2015

Dockside Restaurant & Brewing Company 1253 Johnston Street 4.4 km from station 604.685.7070 docksidevancouver.com The Diamond 6 Powell Street 1.5 km from station 604.568.8272 di6mond.com Fable Kitchen 1944 W. 4th Avenue 4.4 km from station 604.732.1322 fablekitchen.ca The Flying Pig Gastown 102 Water Street 1.7 km from station 604.559.7968 theflyingpigvan.com Jules 216 Abbott Street 1.7 km from station 604.669.0033 julesbistro.ca The Keefer Bar 135 Keefer Street 850 meters from station 604.688.1961 thekeeferbar.com Kishimoto Japanese Kitchen & Sushi Bar 2054 Commercial Drive 2.6 km from station 604.255.5550

L’Abattoir 217 Carrall Street 1.4 km from station 604.568.1701 labattoir.ca The Liberty Distillery 1494 Old Bridge Street 3 km from station 604.558.1998 thelibertydistillery.com Longtable Distillery 1451 Hornby Street 3 km from station 604.266.0177 longtabledistillery.com Forty Ninth Parallel Café & Lucky’s Doughnuts 2902 Main Street 1.8 km from station 604.872.4901 49thparallelroasters.com luckysdoughnuts.com

Raw Canvas 1046 Hamilton Street 2.1 km from station 604.687.1729 rawcanvas.com The Refinery 1115 Granville Street 2.5 km from station 604.687.7479 therefineryvancouver.com Salt Tasting Room 45 Blood Alley 1.5 km from station 604.633.1912 salttastingroom.com Savary Island Pie Company 1533 Marine Drive 10.6 km from station

604.926.4021 savaryislandpiecompany. com Tojo’s Restaurant 1133 W. Broadway 3.2 km from station 604.872.8050 tojos.com Vij’s 1480 W. 11th Avenue 4 km from station 604.736.6664 vijsrestaurant.ca Wildebeest 120 W. Hastings Street 1.5 km from station 604.687.6880 wildebeest.ca Yaletown Brewing Co. 1111 Mainland Street 2.1 km from station 604.681.2739 mjg.ca YEW Seafood & Bar 791 W. Georgia Street 2.2 km from station 604.692.4YEW yewseafood.com Zeitoon Restaurant 1795 Pendrell Street 4.8 km from station 604.899.0700 zeitoonrestaurant.ca

Yaletown Brewing Co.

Marutama Ramen 780 Bidwell Street 3.6 km from station 604.688.8837 marutamaramen.com Matchstick Coffee Roasters 213 E. Georgia Street 650 meters from station 604.336.0213 matchstickcoffee.com Noodlebox 1867 W. 4th Avenue 4.2 km from station 604.734.1310 noodlebox.net ontrakmag.com

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play Auberge Vancouver Hotel

Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel

Barclay House

English Bay Inn

Bee & Thistle Guest House

Executive Hotel LeSoleil

The Burrard

Executive Hotel Vintage Park

837 W. Hastings Street 2.6 km from station 604.678.8899 aubergevancouver.com 1351 Barclay Street 3.5 km from station 604.605.1351 barclayhouse.com

1842 Parker Street 3.3 km from station 604.669.0715 beeandthistle.ca

1100 Burrard Street 2.9 km from station 604.681.2331 theburrard.com

Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 1763 Comox Street 4.2 km from station 604.688.7711 coasthotels.com

Coast Coal Harbour Hotel

1180 W. Hastings Street 2.7 km from station 604.697.0202 coasthotels.com

1041 SW Marine Drive 9.3 km from station 604.263.1555 coasthotels.com 1968 Comox Street 5 km from station 604.683.8002 englishbayinn.com

657 Hornby Street 2.2 km from station 604.632.3000 hotellesoleil.com

1379 Howe Street 2.9 km from station 1.800.570.EXEC executivehotels.net

Fairmont Chateau Whistler

4599 Chateau Boulevard 124 km from station 604.938.8000 fairmont.com

Georgian Court Hotel

773 Beatty Street 1.5 km from station 604.682.5555 georgiancourthotel vancouver.com

Granville House B&B 5050 Granville Street 6.3 km from station 604.733.2963 granvillebb.com

Hotel Blue Horizon

1225 Robson Street 2.9 km from station 604.688.1411 bluehorizonhotel.com

The Kingston Hotel

757 Richards Street 2.1 km from station 604.684.9024 kingstonhotelvancouver. com

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hermitage Hotel

788 Richards Street 2 km from station 778.327.4100 lhermitagevancouver.com

The Landis Hotel & Suites

1200 Hornby Street 3 km from station 604.681.3555 landissuitesvancouver. com

The Listel Hotel

1300 Robson Street 3.1 km from station 604.684.7092 thelistelhotel.com

The Burrard, Vancouver

Loden Hotel

St. Clair Hotel - Hostel

Moda Hotel

Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler

1177 Melville Street 3.4 km from station 877.225.6336 theloden.com 900 Seymour Street 2.2 km from station 604.683.4251 modahotel.ca

OPUS Vancouver 322 Davie Street 2.2 km from station 604.642.6787 opushotel.com

Patricia Hotel

403 E. Hastings Street 1.2 km from station 604.255.4301 patriciahotel.ca

The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel 1431 Robson Street 3.2 km from station 604.685.1301 rivieravancouver.com

Rosewood Hotel Georgia

801 W. Georgia Street 2.1 km from station 604.682.5566 rosewoodhotels.com Summit Lodge & Spa, Whistler

ontrakmag.com

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

577 Richards Street 1.8 km from station 604.648.3713 stclairvancouver.com

4359 Main Street, Whistler 132 km from station 604.932.2778 summitlodge.com

The Sylvia Hotel

1154 Gliford Street 4.3 km from station 604.681.9321 sylviahotel.com

A TreeHouse Bed and Breakfast 2490 W. 49th Avenue 9.1 km from station 604.266.2962 treehousebb.com

Victorian Hotel

514 Homer Street 1.7 km from station 604.681.6369 victorianhotel.ca

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa

845 Hornby Street 2.4 km from station 604.689.7777 wedgewoodhotel.com FALL 2015 |

Guide

Eat + Stay + Play

Aquatic Venture Salmon Fishing & Boat Charters 1510 Mariner Walk 4 km from station 778.882.FISH fishingchartervancouver. com Bau-Xi Gallery 3045 Granville Street 4.3 km from street 604.733.7011 bau-xi.com Beaty Biodiversity Museum 2212 Main Mall 14.2 km from station 604.827.4955 beatymuseum.ubc.ca Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 3735 Capilano Road 10.7 km from station 604.985.7474 capbridge.com The Cross Decor & Design 1198 Homer Street 2.3 km from station 604.689.2900 thecrossdesign.com Cycle City Tours 1798 W. Georgia Street 3.6 km from station

604.618.8626 cyclevancouver.com Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 578 Carrall Street 1.2 km from station 604.662.3207 vancouverchinesegarden. com Ecomarine Paddlesport Centres 1668 Duranleau Street 4.1 km from station 604.689.7575 ecomarine.com Granville Island 4.1 km from station 604.666.6655 granvilleisland.com Granville Island Toy Company 1496 Cartwright Street 4.3 km from station 604.684.0076 toycompany.ca Greater Vancouver Zoo 5048 264th Street 53.3 km from station 604.856.6825 gvzoo.com Grouse Mountain 6400 Nancy Greene Way

14.4 from station 604.980.9311 grousemountain.com

21.4 km from station lighthousepark.ca

Gulf of Georgia Cannery 12138 4th Avenue, Richmond 21 km from station 604.664.9009 gulfofgeorgiacannery.org Harbour Cruises & Events 501 Denman Street 3.7 km from station 604.688.7246 boatcruises.com Ian Tan Gallery 2202 Granville Street 4 km from station 604.738.1077 iantangallery.com Kids Market 1496 Cartwright Street 4.3 km from station 604.689.8447 kidsmarket.ca Kurbatoff Gallery 2435 Granville Street 4.2 km from station 604.736.5444 kurbatoffgallery.com Lighthouse Park West Vancouver

Museum of Anthropology 6393 NW Marine Drive 13 km from station 604.822.5087 moa.ubc.ca Museum of Vancouver 1100 Chestnut Street 4.8 km from station 604.736.4431 museumofvancouver.ca Northlands Golf Course 3400 Anne Macdonald Way 16.4 km from station 604.924.2950 golfnorthlands.com Pirate Adventures 1820 Mast Tower Road 4.1 km from station 604.754.7535 pirateadventures.ca Robson Street 2.8 km from station 604.669.8132 robsonstreet.ca Rockwood Adventures 6342 Bruce Street 7.4 km from station 604.913.1621 rockwoodadventures.com

Rogers Arena 800 Griffiths Way 2 km from station 604.899.7400 rogersarena.com Science World at TELUS World of Science 1455 Quebec Street 400 meters from station 604.443.7440 scienceworld.ca Squamish Lilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Wat Cultural Centre 4584 Blackcomb Way, Whistler 1.866.441.7522 124 km from station slcc.ca Stanley Park 5 km from station 604.681.6728 vancouver.ca Vancouver Art Gallery 750 Hornby Street 2.3 km from station 604.662.4700 vanartgallery.bc.ca Vancouver Aquarium 845 Avison Way 6.3 km from station 604.659.3400 vanaqua.org Vancouver Maritime Museum 1905 Ogden Avenue 4.8 km from station 604.257.8300 vancouvermaritime museum.com Vancouver Symphony Orchestra 500-843 Seymour Street 2.1 km from station 604.876.3434 vancouversymphony.ca Whistler Blackcomb 4545 Blackcomb Way, Whistler 124 km from station 1.800.766.0449 whistlerblackcomb.com Yaletown District 2.3 km from station 604.683.7473 yaletowninfo.com

Squamish Lilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;wat Cultural Center, Vancouver

| FALL 2015

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

ontrakmag.com

A picturesque 8 blocks from Portland's Union Station at 1129 NW Flanders Street.

Hats and Accessories

nTrak Ad x 4.8125” LIVE LIFE A WHOLE LOT mmer 2015

BRIGHTER,

BOLDER,

BETTER. THE HEART OF

WASHINGTON WINE COUNTRY®

Portland's locally owned hat boutique and custom millinery for women and men.

START YOUR WEEKEND WITH AN EXCLAMATION POINT!

For a BRIGHTER, BOLDER, BETTER get-away than you’ve ever experienced in Washington’s Wine Country, visit Tri-Cities! Savor your experience at more than 200 wineries within an hour’s drive, enjoy a variety of restaurants, and revel in the brilliant colors of our world. We don’t do anything halfway. Visit Tri-Cities and add an exclamation point to your life’s biography! To learn more, visit www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com.

Sign up for our weekly events newsletter at www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com Fly Alaska Airlines from the Tri-Cities and check your first case of wine free! TasteAndTote.com

Kennewick • Pasco • Richland

EXP

SURE

Photo Contest

Betsy Katz

Portland is my hometown, and since Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve lived here almost my entire life, I like to get out and explore with my camera. It makes me look at the city in different ways and lets me play tourist. This shot was taken on the pedestrian bridge going over the train tracks at Union Station. I had never explored the area near the train station, and I loved the look of old Portland in the middle of all the new Portland. photo by Betsy Katz Send us your rail travel photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure for a chance to have your photo published.

| FALL 2015

ontrakmag.com

4 Books for the Train

AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS Vancouver, BC

BY ANNA BIRD

in the Mountain by Adrianne Harun Port Townsend, WA In Harun’s debut novel, she 70

| FALL 2015

by Charles D’Ambrosio Portland, OR D’Ambrosio has somewhat of a cult following for his previous collection of essays, Orphans. In this new book, he writes with his distinctly funny and exacting mix of journalistic reporting and personal thought. Topics include Native American whaling, Mary Kay Letourneau, Seattle in 1974, a Pentecostal “hell house” and his own family.

ont

ie P

Bellingham

Culture Crawl page 34

Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett Edmonds Seattle

Tukwila

William Ritter Springfield, OR Ritter’s first novel is the first of a series for young adults that has been described as “Doctor Who meets Sherlock Holmes.” R.F. Jackaby is an investigator in New Fiddleham, New England in 1892, and the story is told through the eyes of his assistant, Abigail Rook. Jackaby has the ability to see supernatural beings, and Rook has the gift of noticing ordinary yet important details. Together, the two make a powerful team. When Jackaby is called to investigate a serial killer, he is certain it is non-human despite the conviction of local police.

Tacoma Olympia/Lacey Centralia

Kelso/Longview

Capital Cities page 45

Vancouver, WA Portland Oregon City

Salem Albany

Eugene oul son

A Man Came out of a Door

Loitering: New and Collected Essays

Jackaby

hr is P

by Aislinn Hunter Vancouver, BC When Jane Standen was 15 years old, she lost the five-year-old girl she was babysitting: in the woods. The girl was never found. Grown-up Jane works as an archivist at a small London museum that’s about to close due to funding. Before it does, she has one last project to track down the information on a woman who disappeared 125 years ago. In her research, she finds one dilapidated country house that connects the missing woman’s case with the young girl who went missing on her watch.

takes the non-fiction story of Native women disappearing throughout Canada and makes it the bases for a folkloric tale. Using magical realism and mythology, she tells the story of girls vanishing from the sides of a notorious highway in northern British Columbia. Local Leo Kreutzer and his friends are scarcely aware of the disappearances until they notice a mysterious stranger in town who seems to be the personification of the devil himself.

The World Before Us

THESE PACIFIC NORTHWEST AUTHORS will take you into rural British Columbia, 1892 New England and a London museum, all while you’re en route.

#Railgating page 48

ontrakmag.com

PORTLAND

SALEM

EUGENE

ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

SEATTLE

TACOMA

OLYMPIA

| FALL 2015

ontrakmag.com

SAVE 25% on Travel to University of Oregon Ducks Games!

Ride the Amtrak Cascades Game Train to a home game in Eugene and save 25%. Travel through November 28, 2015 and enjoy the ride with your fellow Ducks fans. ®

Stop by the bistro car for a cold beverage and a snack and revel in the glory as your favorite team wins another season. Go Ducks! Plus, kids (aged 2–12) ride at half off. So bring the family!

Book now at Amtrak.com/GoDucks THIS OFFER IS EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT WWW.AMTRAK.COM. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR 25PCT OFF THE REGULAR (FULL) ADULT RAIL FARE. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR SALE BETWEEN 07AUG15 - 26NOV15 AND VALID FOR TRAVEL ON THE FOLLOWING DATES ONLY: 04-06SEP15, 18-20SEP15, 25-27SEP15, 09-11OCT15, 06-08NOV15, 20-22NOV15, AND 26-28NOV15. BLACKOUTS APPLY ON ALL OTHER DAYS. ADVANCE RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) DAY PRIOR TO TRAVEL. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR TRAVEL ON THE AMTRAK CASCADES AND ASSOCIATED THRUWAYS; EXCEPT NOT VALID ON THE 7000-8999 THRUWAY SERIES. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR TRAVEL TO EUGENE, OREGON AND RETURN ONLY. SEATING IS LIMITED, SEATS MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE ON ALL DAYS. FARES ARE SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. UP TO 2 CHILDREN AGES 2-12 MAY ACCOMPANY EACH ADULT AT HALF THE REGULAR (FULL) ADULT RAIL FARE. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR COACH SEATS ONLY; NO BUSINESS CLASS UPGRADES PERMITTED. THIS OFFER IS NOT COMBINABLE WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNT OFFER. IN ADDITION TO THE DISCOUNT RESTRICTIONS; THIS OFFER IS ALSO SUBJECT TO ANY RESTRICTIONS, BLACKOUTS AND REFUND RULES THAT APPLY TO THE TYPE OF FARE PURCHASED. FARES, ROUTES, AND SCHEDULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. ONCE TRAVEL HAS BEGUN; NO CHANGES TO THE ITINERARY ARE PERMITTED. OTHER RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY. PLEASE REFER TO DISCOUNT CODE V611. AMTRAK AND AMTRAK CASCADES ARE REGISTERED SERVICE MARKS OF THE NATIONAL RAILROAD PASSENGER CORPORATION. ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015 |

Parting Shot

Kevin Madore

TAKEN ALONG THE CHELATCHIE PRAIRIE RAILROAD IN YACOLT, WASHINGTON. The all-volunteer Chelatchie Prairie Railroad chartered a photography excursion last fall. In the photo, a Crossett Western saddle-tanker rumbles above the Lewis River. The railroad operates passenger excursions out of Yacolt on selected weekends from May to December.

| FALL 2015

ontrakmag.com

THE PERFECT ESCAPE

CAN HAPPEN

With 105 beautiful hotel rooms and suites, a luxury spa, headline entertainment, 10 diverse dining options and exciting gaming, make your next destination at the place where, everything can happen! SilverReefCasino.com EASY TO FIND, HARD TO LEAVE

I-5, Exit 260 | Ferndale, WA | 866.383.0777 Must be 21 or over to play. Management reserves all rights. ÂŠ2015 Silver Reef Casino

EXPERIENCE EVERYTHING

An do u r s .

MAKI NGTHEI RWORL DBETTER.

SEE A CONDOR UP CLOSE,AND MAYBE SOON YOU’ LL SEE THEM OVERHEAD. Toget herwi t hourpar t ner s ,Or egonZooi sr es t or i ngnat i vepopul at i onsofendanger ed s peci es .Ever yvi s i tt o t hezoonotonl yconnect speopl et owi l dl i f e,butal s os uppor t sourcr i t i calcons er vat i onwor k. Pl anyourvi s i tnow ator egonzoo. or g/ t oday . Ri deMAXLi ght r ai lf or$1 . 50oﬀzooadmi s s i on.