FARM + VINE
mild white fish, available year round. Hake—also known as whiting—cod, striped bass, and tile fish are also a great choice when you are looking for a mild flavored filet. If you are in the mood for salmon, give bluefish a try—it has a little more oil so is a stronger flavored fish flavor. I warn you though, if you go fishing and are lucky enough to catch a bluefish do not attempt to remove the hook with your hand—they are ferocious, so use pliers!
fresh tips freshCuisine tips Coastal
Strawberries! After the coldest winter in 100 years, Rhode Island is ready for summer. Long days on the beach, Del’s Lemonade, clambakes ... oh, the bliss! This is a busy season for the Ocean House Food Forager, with five bustling dining outlets and a plethora of fresh produce available, the chefs keep me running. At the farmers market I can choose from a steady stream of fresh heirloom tomatoes, glorious greens and more zucchini than even our guests could ever consume. Our Executive Pastry Chef, Adam Young, has me buying up as many fresh berries as I can; what he doesn’t use now will be frozen so that our guests can enjoy local berries long after the season ends. There are regular runs to Arcadian Fields for heirloom tomatoes and nearly daily visits to Manfredi Farm for sweet corn. One of my favorite summer stops is Galilee, in the town of Narragansett. Galilee is the heart of the Rhode Island fishing community where more than 15 million pounds of seafood are landed annually. If you are looking for fresh local fish this is the place to go. There are several retail markets there that purchase directly from the boats. Sometimes, if you catch a boat just coming in you can strike a deal with the fishermen themselves.
The quintessential Rhode Island seafood has to be the quahog (KWO-hog), the Narragansett Indian name for a large, hard-shell clam that is abundant along our coastline. All summer long you will see locals and visitors alike around the Ocean State harvesting these clams at low tide. The scientific name for a quahog is Mercenaria mercenaria, the same species as the littleneck, a raw bar favorite. Littlenecks are the smallest of the species, legally harvested at one inch thick. Between the diminutive littleneck and jumbo quahog—which can be four inches or more in length—are top necks and cherrystones, differentiated only by size. The largest clams are used primarily for stuffing and chowder. When it comes to chowder, Rhode Islanders are divided between New England style, which is white with the addition of milk or cream, and the traditional Rhode Island clear broth chowder. Old-time Rhode Islanders would never consider adding cream or tomato (Manhattan style) to their beloved clear broth. Any way you like it, clam chowder is a must when visiting the Ocean State. Summers in Rhode Island seem to pass in the blink of an eye, but they leave us with memories to last a lifetime. While the bounty from both land and sea is ripe and plentiful, you can bet I'll be me making the most of the delicious provisions available just outside our doors.
from our kitchens
Fluke Crudo with Fennel Salad and Meyer Lemon Gel Yield: 4 appetizers Fluke, also known as summer flounder, is a mild white fish, abundant in the waters off the Rhode Island coast making it a favorite with locals. Source the freshest fish available for this uncooked preparation; it should smell like the sea, with no strong “fishy” odor. The olive crumb can be made up to one week prior to serving. Let it cool completely before storing in an airtight container. This elegant appetizer will elevate any summer meal!
8 ounces fresh fluke (summer flounder) fillet, sliced thinly For the Nicoise Crumb: 1 cup Nicoise olives, pitted and drained of all liquid LAY olives out on a sheet pan lined with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper. Bake in a 100 degree oven overnight, until all moisture is removed. Once cool, pulse in a food processor until the olives reach the consistency of bread crumbs. Set aside.
For the Meyer Lemon Gel: 3 Meyer lemons 1 cup simple syrup, divided (combine 1 cup of water and 3 cups of sugar in a medium sauce pan and simmer just until sugar is dissolved. Let cool.) Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, to taste POKE several holes in the lemons with a fork. Place lemons in medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat, strain off water, add fresh cold water and bring back to a boil. Repeat a third time. ONCE cool, cut the lemons into quarters and remove flesh and pith from inside, leaving only the peel. Place peels back in sauce pan and cover with half of the simple syrup. Simmer for approximately 90 minutes until peel is soft and
Our local waters are home to many varieties of fish, pleasing to any palate. Fluke, also known as summer flounder, is an abundant species off the Rhode Island coast and is a versatile,
translucent, gradually adding water as necessary.
Janice McEachen Food Forager / Director of Culinary Education
simple syrup and discard the syrup. Puree the peels in a blender, with the remaining fresh simple syrup until smooth. Let cool to room temperature.
Farm + Vine Dinner Series wednesday, september 10 PJ Calapa of Bedford Post Inn, Bedford, NY Farm: Cato Corner Farm, Colchester, CT Vine: Castello Banfi of Tuscany
WHEN the lemon zest is soft, strain off any remaining
Our Farm + Vine Dinner Series continues, as we welcome Relais & Châteaux chefs from around the country to take over our kitchen for the evening. Join us as acclaimed chef PJ Calapa of Bedford Post Inn in Bedford, New York, pairs ingredients from Cato Corner Farm in Colchester, Connecticut, with wine from Castello Banfi of Tuscany.
Fennel Salad: ½ teaspoon extra virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon champagne vinegar 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly shaved (a mandolin works best for this) 3 medium radishes, julienned 1 tablespoon thinly sliced chives salt and pepper, to taste IN a small bowl whisk together the olive oil and vinegar; set aside. In a medium bowl toss fennel, radish and chives; refrigerate until ready to serve. Just before plating toss dressing with vegetables; season with salt and pepper to taste. DIVIDE thin slices of the fluke evenly among four plates.
7:00 p.m. in Seasons; $95 / person (plus tax and gratuity). For reservations, please visit OceanHouseEvents.com or call 888.552.2588.
July/August/September 2014
Top the fluke with equal amounts of fennel salad, garnish with Meyer Lemon gel, and sprinkle with olive crumbs.